RU2467671C1 - Method of making finishing seam - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: textiles, paper.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to the garment industry, namely finishing seams. The essence of the invention lies in the method of making the finishing seam consisting of folding parts inside out, connecting them with stitching seam, spreading and ironing seam allowances. On the stitching seam a zigzag stitch is made with weakened needle thread which thickness is greater than the hook thread by at least 2 numbers with the maximum value of zigzag and the length of the stitch. The needle in the left end position is placed on the part, in the right end position - on the allowance seam of stitching; and spreading and ironing seam allowances is carried out after laying a zigzag stitch.

EFFECT: development of the method of making a finishing seam, imitating hand slanting stitches while maintaining the function of fixing seam allowances.

2 cl, 7 dwg

Description

The invention relates to the clothing industry, namely to finishing seams.

There is a traditional way of decorating clothing parts using a weld seam / 1, P.P. Koketkin, Clothing: technology - technology, processes - quality. M .: Publishing. MGUDT, 2001. S. - 99 /, selected as a prototype. This method provides the connection of two parts of clothing and fixing the seam allowances. However, this method of connection does not meet the modern trend of fashion, focusing on the decoration of clothing parts that imitate hand stitches.

The task of the invention is to develop a method for making a finishing stitch that imitates manual oblique stitches, while maintaining the function of fixing the seam allowances.

The essence of the invention lies in the fact that in the method of manufacturing a finishing seam, consisting of folding the parts with the front sides inward, joining them with a seaming line, unfolding and ironing the seam allowances, the sewing line is laid with the maximum zigzag value and stitch length, a zigzag stitch with a weakened needle thread, the thickness of which is greater than the shuttle thread by at least 2 numbers, moreover, the needle in the left extreme position is located on the part, in the right extreme position - at the seam allowance ny, and the unfolding and ironing of the seam allowances is made after laying a zigzag stitch.

A zigzag stitch can be laid after bending the part with the needle in the extreme right position outside the part near the bend.

The invention is illustrated by drawings. Figure 1 - a method of manufacturing a connecting finishing seam, a - laying the sewing stitch, b - laying a zigzag stitch, c - ironing (unfolding) of the seam, g - appearance of the seam from the front side. Figure 2 - a method of manufacturing a finishing seam. Figure 3 - options for using the finishing seam.

A method of manufacturing a finishing seam is as follows. Two parts are folded with the front sides inward (figa). The sewing line 1 is laid (Fig. 1a). Then, along the sewing line, a zigzag line 2 is laid (Fig. 1b). In this case, the needle thread should be smaller in number (thicker) with a weakened tension, and the shuttle thread should be smaller in number (thinner) with increased tension. The zigzag value is maximum (at least 8 mm), the stitch length is maximum (at least 5 mm). Moreover, the zigzag stitch is located in such a way that the left needle deflection goes along the part, and the right needle deflection goes along the seam allowance (Fig. 1b). Next, the seam allowances are laid out and ironed, the thread tension is balanced, the zigzag stitch is straightened (figv). As a result, oblique stitches are created on the front side, imitating manual ones, which serve as a finishing stitch (Fig. 1d).

The figure 2 shows a method of manufacturing a finishing seam on a piece of clothing, it is as follows. The part is bent along the intended line with the sides inward (Fig. 2). A zigzag stitch is laid along the bend, and the needle in the leftmost position passes along the part, and in the rightmost position, outside the part near the bend. The requirements for the thread and zigzag stitch are the same. Then the place of the bend is straightened and ironed. As a result, a seam is created on the front side of the part imitating hand-sewn skew stitches.

The proposed method is characterized by the following essential features.

1. Parts are folded with the front sides inward and grinded.

2. On the sewing line, a zigzag stitch with a needle thread, smaller in number and with a weakened tension, a shuttle thread with a larger number and with increased tension, with a maximum zigzag value and stitch length, with the needle in the leftmost position on the part, and in right - for seam allowance.

3. Seam allowances are laid out and ironed.

The closest prototype / 1 / is characterized by the following essential features.

1. Parts are folded with the front sides inward and grinded.

2. Seam allowances are laid out and ironed.

3. Parallel to the sewing line of parts, symmetrically on both sides from the front side, two finishing lines are laid.

A comparative analysis of the proposed method with the prototype / 1 / shows that the inventive method for connecting parts has a novelty in the following ways.

1. On the sewing line, a zigzag stitch with a needle thread, smaller in number and with a weakened tension, a shuttle thread, larger in number and with increased tension, with a maximum zigzag value and stitch length, with the needle in the leftmost position on the part, is laid, and in the right - on the seam allowance.

2. Seam allowances are laid out and ironed

This method of manufacturing a finishing seam can improve the strength of the seam, its elasticity and wear resistance of the part while maintaining the function of fixing the seam allowances. Especially relevant for leather, fur, film-coated materials and other materials that are not amenable to wet heat treatment. In addition to the above, the method can be used in knitwear, provided that equipment with a chain stitch is used to sew the sewing stitch.

The technical result from the use of the invention is expressed in the following.

1. Obtaining a finishing connecting seam that imitates manual oblique stitches along the seam of connecting clothing parts from the front side, corresponding to the modern fashion direction.

2. Improving the strength characteristics of the joint.

3. The increase in consumer demand for the product due to the actualization of imitation of manual labor.

4. Minimization of labor costs.

5. The ability to execute on one class of sewing machines.

6. Higher seam elasticity, allowing it to be used in knitwear.

7. Increasing the wear resistance of the material by reducing the number of needle punctures, maintaining the integrity of the structure of materials.

8. Saving the function of fixing the seam allowances.

This method of joining clothing parts can be used in mass production, since its manufacture is performed on standard sewing equipment and does not require additional special devices.

Claims (2)

1. A method of manufacturing a finishing seam, consisting of folding the parts with the front sides inward, joining them with a seaming line, unfolding and ironing the seam allowances, characterized in that the sewing line is laid with the maximum zigzag value and the stitch length of the zigzag stitch with a weakened needle thread, the thickness of which more than 2 shuttle threads, and the needle in the left extreme position is located on the part, in the right extreme position - at the seam allowance for seaming, and unfolding and suturing of the seam allowances is done after laying a zigzag stitch. 2. A method of manufacturing a finishing seam according to claim 1, characterized in that the zigzag stitch is laid after bending the part with the needle in the extreme right position outside the part near the bend.

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