RU2337665C1 - Cosmetic cream for hands and face - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: cream for hands and face skin care includes: distilled glycerol, triethanolamine, rectified ethyl alcohol, fragrance, water, and additionally introduced ingredients, as follows: hen-grease low-melting fraction, sunflower oil, water-free lanoline, synthetic alcohols, cosmetic stearine, 0.2 % oil solution of β-carotene, water-alcohol extract of willow bark, water-alcohol extract of tormentil, fragrance, and distilled water; UV-propellent as preservative.

EFFECT: marked skin moisturiser properties; softening and smoothing effect, improved spreading on skin surface.

4 ex, 6 tbl

Description

The invention relates to the perfumery and cosmetics industry and relates to the creation of a cream that can be used in the manufacture of skin care products in beauty salons and in everyday life for the care of hands and face.

Known cream for facial skin care with a moisturizing effect, which does not have an irritating and allergic effect, causes a pronounced emollient effect, helps to eliminate the phenomena of contraction, dryness and peeling, has a hydrant effect. Face cream with a moisturizing effect has the following ratio of components,%: emulsion wax 2.0-5.0; cosmetic stearin 2.0-5.0; distilled monoglycerides 1.0-3.0; anhydrous lanolin 1.0-4.0; olive oil 9.0-14.0; deodorized mink fat 3.0-6.0; distilled glycerin 2.0-5.0; triethanolamine 0.1-1.0; glucosaminoglycans from human placenta 0.01-0.5; propyl ether paraoxybenzoic acid 0.05-0.5; methyl paraoxybenzoic acid ester 0.1-0.5; ethyl alcohol 1.0-4.0; perfume 0.1-1.0; water - the rest (according to patent 2101006, IPC ⁷ А61К 7/48, No. 9404560/14, claimed 12.30.1994, published 10.01.1998, Rus.).

The disadvantage of this face cream with a moisturizing effect is that the face cream is distributed on the surface is difficult and uneven, after application, the residue is felt.

The closest in technical essence of the known is a cream for the skin of the face, comprising the following components, wt.%: Olive oil 6.5-8.0; deodorized mink fat 2.5-3.0; stearic acid 6.0-8.0; glycerol monostearate 1.5-2.5; glycerol 2.0-2.5; triethanolamine 0.3-0.4; cocoa butter 2.5-3.0; beeswax 2.5-3.0; paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester 0.05-0.1; paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester 0.05-0.1; aqueous-alcoholic extract of hodgepodge 0.1-1.0; perfume 0.1-0.5; water up to 100 (according to the application for the invention 94024332, IPC ⁷ А61К 7/48, claimed June 29, 1994, published April 20, 1996, Pyc.).

The disadvantage of face cream is that the cream is not evenly distributed on the surface, the severity of the skin's moisturizing properties is not significant.

The objective of the invention is to expand the range of cosmetic creams for the care of skin of hands and face.

The technical result is the development of the formulation of a cream for the care of the skin of hands and face, with pronounced skin moisturizing properties, softening and smoothing effect, as well as improved ability to distribute on the skin surface.

The technical result is achieved by the fact that a low-melting fraction of chicken fat, sunflower oil, anhydrous lanolin, synthetic alcohols, cosmetic stearin, 0.2 are additionally introduced into the cream for hand and face skin care, including glycerin, triethanolamine, ethyl alcohol, perfume, water. % oil solution of β-carotene, willow bark extract, cinquefoil extract, and as a preservative HC-propellant, in the following proportions of components, wt.%: distilled glycerin 2.0-5.0; triethanolamine 0.1-1.0; rectified ethyl alcohol 1.0-4.0; low melting fraction of chicken fat 3.0-6.0; sunflower oil 3.0-10.0; anhydrous lanolin 0.5-2.0; synthetic alcohols 1.0-4.0; cosmetic stearin 1.0-3.0; 0.2% β-carotene oil solution 0.2-0.8; water-alcohol extract of willow bark 0.5-1.0; water-alcohol extract of potentilla 0.5-1.5; propellant 9-12; perfume 0.1-1.0; distilled water - the rest.

A low-melting chicken fat fraction is introduced into the face and hand cream. It contains up to 70% of triglycerides of unsaturated fatty acids, of which oleic acid accounts for 40-43%, linoleic acid is 15-20%. The proportion of saturated fatty acids is about 20%. The low melting chicken fat fraction is ideal for use in cosmetics. It has an effective positive effect on the fat metabolism of the skin, is easily applied to the skin, quickly absorbed without leaving a greasy film, makes the skin soft and smooth, hypoallergenic, is a transparent liquid with an odor and taste characteristic of this type of fat with the following indicators: color at a temperature of 18-20 ° C from white to yellow of varying intensity; acid number not more than 0.98 mg KOH; the content of substances insoluble in ether, not more than 0.1%; melting point 37.0 ° C; pour point 25.0 ° C; the content of unsaponifiable substances is not more than 1.3%.

Sunflower oil is a clear, odorless liquid, the taste characteristic of this type of oil, with the following indicators: acid value of not more than 0.36-0.4 mg KOH / g; mass fraction of moisture and volatiles not more than 0.1%. It is the main component of the fat phase, as it has a beneficial effect on the skin - softens it, reduces the loss of water in the skin during evaporation; the components in the oil are active and affect the mechanisms of skin regeneration.

The anhydrous lanolin introduced into the formulation is a wax from sheep's wool. In its chemical structure and physiological properties, it is close to the constituent elements of skin lipids and is well absorbed. Lanolin has the following indicators: acidity coefficient of not more than 1; humidity not more than 0.5%; melting point 36-42 ° C; dropping temperature 38-44 ° С; iodine number of not more than 28.4 mg J _2/100 cm ^3; the peroxide value is not more than 20 mmol 1/2 About ₂ / kg.

Synthetic alcohols, additionally introduced into the formulation, are a white solid mass, alcohol content of at least 16%, alcohol content of up to C ₁₂ no more than 5%, alcohols above C ₁₂ no more than 5%, water no more than 0.2%; hydroxyl number 200-220; carbonyl number not more than 1.5. Used in cosmetic creams as a structure-forming component.

Cosmetic stearin, introduced into the formulation, is a crystalline white mass with a specific odor, quite fragile, very solid consistency with the following indicators: color at 15-20 ° C from white to light cream, the content of stearic acid is 40-45% (wt. .), palmitic acid 55-60%; unsaponifiable substances not more than 0.5%; pour point 55-56 ° C; iodine number of not more than 3-4 mg J _2/100 cm ^3, an acid number of no more than 209-211 mg KOH / g. It is used in the composition of the cream as an emulsifying and structure-forming component.

“Caroline-S” is introduced into the cosmetic cream, which is a 0.2% oil solution of natural β-carotene with the following indicators: mass fraction of β-carotene not less than 0.2%; acid number not more than 0.4 mg KOH / g; the peroxide value is not more than 10.0 mmol ½ About ₂ / kg

Natural β-carotene is known for its pronounced wound healing, antiseptic, wound-drying effect.

Introductory alcoholic extracts of willow bark and cinquefoil are used in the cream as biologically active substances, they have antiseptic and regenerative effects on the skin.

Willow bark extract is a transparent liquid of dark brown color with a characteristic odor, cinquefoil extract is a transparent liquid of red-brown color with a characteristic odor, with the following indicators: volume fraction of ethyl alcohol is not less than 52 vol.%; diethyl phthalate content not more than 0.1%; total microbial number not more than 1000 cells / g.

Liquefied hydrocarbon propellant is used for aerosol packaging (propane-butane) with the following indicators: saturated vapor pressure at a temperature of 20 ° C 0.33 MPa; ethane content not more than 0.5%; the total content of propane, isobutane, n-butane is not less than 99.0%; the content of pentanes is not more than 0.5%; mass fraction of sulfur and mercantene sulfur not more than 0,0005%; mass fraction of non-volatiles is not more than 0.021%.

The severity of the skin moisturizing properties of cosmetic cream for hands and face, as well as the softening and smoothing effect is confirmed by experiments.

The results of indicators for evaluating consumer properties (the severity of the skin moisturizing properties, the ability to distribute over the skin surface, the ability to leave a residue, fat content) of examples 1-4 are shown in tables 1-5.

From these tables it can be seen that the claimed cosmetic cream for face and hands confirms improved consumer properties:

the severity of the skin moisturizing properties is 4.5-4.9 points, in the prototype this indicator is 4.0 points; the ability to distribute on the surface of 4.9 points, the prototype - 4 points; the ability to leave a balance of 4.3-5 points, the prototype - 4 points; fat content of 4.3-5 points, the prototype - 4 points. According to the tables, example 3 is the optimal formulation of the inventive cosmetic cream for hands and face.

The achievement of the technical result is proved by comparing the following examples (example 1 - example 3 - the claimed cosmetic cream for hands and face, example 4 - face cream).

Thus, the set of essential features specified in the claims, allows to achieve the desired technical result.

Example 1

cosmetic stearin - 1.0%;

anhydrous lanolin - 0.5%;

sunflower oil - 3.0%;

low melting chicken fat fraction - 2.5%;

distilled glycerin - 4.0%;

triethanolamine - 0.5%;

rectified ethyl alcohol - 3.0%;

synthetic alcohols - 1.0%;

0.2% β-carotene oil solution - 0.1%;

water-alcohol extract of willow bark - 0.5%;

water-alcohol extract of cinquefoil - 0.5%;

perfume - 0.3%;

distilled water - 75.3%;

propellant - 8.0%.

Example 2

cosmetic stearin - 3.00%;

anhydrous lanolin - 2.00%;

sunflower oil - 8.00%;

low melting fraction of chicken fat - 6.00%;

distilled glycerin - 7.00%;

triethanolamine - 2.00%;

rectified ethyl alcohol - 6.00%;

synthetic alcohols - 4.00%;

0.2% β-carotene oil solution - 0.8%;

water-alcohol extract of willow bark - 1.50%;

water-alcohol extract of cinquefoil - 1.50%;

perfume - 1.0%;

distilled water - 45.20%;

propellant - 12.00%.

Example 3

cosmetic stearin - 1.78%;

anhydrous lanolin - 0.72%;

sunflower oil - 4.00%;

low melting chicken fat fraction - 3.50%;

distilled glycerin - 5.00%;

triethanolamine - 1.00%;

rectified ethyl alcohol - 4.00%;

synthetic alcohols - 1.50%;

0.2% β-carotene oil solution - 0.20%;

water-alcohol extract of willow bark - 1.00%;

water-alcohol extract of cinquefoil - 1.00%;

perfume - 0.7%;

distilled water - 65.60%;

propellant - 10.00%.

Example 4

olive oil - 7.2%;

deodorized mink fat - 2.75%;

stearic acid - 7.0%;

glycerol monostearate - 2.0%;

glycerin - 2.25%;

triethanolamine - 0.35%;

cocoa butter - 2.75%;

beeswax - 2.75%;

paraoxybenzoic acid methyl ester - 0.075%;

paraoxybenzoic acid propyl ester - 0.075%;

aqueous-alcoholic extract of hodgepodge - 0.6%;

perfume - 0.3%;

water - 71.3%.

Table 1
Properties of the claimed cosmetic cream for hands and face (example 1) Indicators Respondents Average value one 2 3 four 5 6 7 8 9 10 The severity of skin moisturizing properties, points 5 four 5 5 four 5 four 5 four four 4,5 The ability to distribute on the surface, points 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 four 4.9 Ability to leave a balance, points 5 5 5 four four 5 four four 5 5 4.6 Fat, points four four four four 5 four 5 four 5 four 4.3

table 2
Properties of the claimed cosmetic cream for hands and face (example 2) Indicators Respondents Average value one 2 3 four 5 6 7 8 9 10 The severity of skin moisturizing properties, points four 5 four 5 5 four 5 5 four four 4,5 The ability to distribute on the surface, points four four 5 5 5 four four 5 four 5 4,5 Ability to leave a balance, points four four 5 four four 5 four four four 5 4.3 Fat, points four 5 four 5 four 5 four 5 5 four 4,5

Table 3
Properties of the claimed cosmetic cream for hands and face (example 3) Indicators Respondents Average value one 2 3 four 5 6 7 8 9 10 The severity of skin moisturizing properties, points 5 5 four 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 4.9 The ability to distribute on the surface, points 5 5 5 5 5 four 5 5 5 5 4.9 Ability to leave a balance, points 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5,0 Fat, points 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5,0

Table 4
Properties of face cream (example 3) Indicators Respondents Average value one 2 3 four 5 6 7 8 9 10 The severity of skin moisturizing properties, points four four four 3 5 3 four four four 5 4.0 The ability to distribute on the surface, points four four four 3 four four four four 5 four 4.0 Ability to leave a balance, points four four four four 3 four four four 5 four 4.0 Fat, points four four four 3 four 3 four 5 four 5 4.0

Table 5
Comparison of average properties of cosmetic creams Indicators Average value Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 The severity of skin moisturizing properties, points 4,5 4,5 4.9 4.0 The ability to distribute on the surface, points 4.9 4,5 4.9 4.0 Ability to leave a balance, points 4.3 4.3 5,0 4.0 Fat, points 4,5 4,5 5,0 4.0

Cosmetic cream for hands and face was prepared and tested in laboratory conditions. The low-melting chicken fat fraction is introduced into the formulation, which is prepared as follows: chicken fat is separated into fractions in a centrifuge of the laboratory brand TsLI-2 with a rotation frequency of 100 s ^-1 for 15 minutes. The result is a low-melting fraction and a buttery in a ratio of 3: 1 and determine the quality indicators of the low-melting liquid fraction of chicken fat, which correspond to GOST 8285-74.

Separately prepare the fat and water-glycerin phases. For this, the fat components of the cosmetic cream are weighed into a glass cup according to the recipe: anhydrous lanolin, sunflower oil, low melting chicken fat fraction, cosmetic stearin, synthetic alcohols; at the same time, water-glycerin components are weighed in another glass: distilled glycerin, triethanolamine, rectified ethyl alcohol. A water bath is prepared at 70-80 ° С, where glasses with fat and water-glycerol phases are placed, mixing is brought to a predetermined temperature (70-80 ° С) and the fat components are poured into a water-glycerin solution with vigorous stirring. Next, the mixture is emulsified on a homogenizer for 8 minutes at maximum speed (100-200 rpm). After time, useful additives (0.2% oil solution of β-carotene, water-alcohol extract of willow bark, water-alcohol extract of potentilla) and perfume are added to the homogeneous emulsion and perfumed, and emulsified for another 3 minutes. Then the finished cream is cooled in a bath of cold water. Next, the cream is dosed into aerosol cans and seasoned with HC-propellant.

Table 6 The range of values of the components included in the formulation of the inventive cosmetic cream for hands and face Components Min Average Max. cosmetic stearin 1.00 3.00 1.78 anhydrous lanolin 0.50 2.00 0.72 sunflower oil 3.00 8.00 4.00 low melting chicken fat fraction 2,50 6.00 3,50 distilled glycerin 4.00 7.00 5.00 triethanolamine 0.50 2.00 1.00 ethanol 3.00 6.00 4.00 synthetic alcohols 1.00 4.00 1,50 0.2% β-carotene oil solution 0.10 0.80 0.20 willow bark extract 0.50 1,50 1.00 water-alcohol extract of cinquefoil 0.50 1,50 1.00 perfume 0.30 1.00 0.70 distilled water 75.30 45.20 65.60 Hydrocarbon propellant 8.00 12.00 10.00

Claims (1)

Hand and face skin care cream, including glycerin, triethanolamine, ethyl alcohol, perfume, water, characterized in that they additionally introduce a low-melting fraction of chicken fat, sunflower oil, anhydrous lanolin, synthetic alcohols, cosmetic stearin, 0.2% β-carotene oil solution, water-alcohol extract of willow bark, water-alcohol extract of potentilla, and as a preservative, HC-propellant in the following proportions of components, wt.%: distilled glycerin  2.0-5.0 triethanolamine  0.1-1.0 rectified ethyl alcohol  1.0-4.0 low melting chicken fat fraction  3.0-6.0 sunflower oil  3.0-10.0 anhydrous lanolin  0.5-2.0 synthetic alcohols  1.0-4.0 cosmetic stearin  1.0-3.0 0.2% β-carotene oil solution  0.2-0.8 water-alcohol extract of willow bark  0.5-1.0 water-alcohol extract of cinquefoil  0.5-1.5 Hydrocarbon propellant  9.0-12.0 perfume  0.1-1.0 distilled water  rest