RU2304959C2 - Cosmetic preparation that protects skin against disorders initiated due to active and passive smoking (variants) and oxygen-transporting multiple nanoemulsion being the constituent of its composition (variants) - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology, dermatology.

SUBSTANCE: the present innovation refers to curative, prophylactic and/or cosmetic preparations. Cosmetic preparation that protects skin against disorders initiated due to active and passive smoking contains cosmetically acceptable foundation and oxygen-transporting multiple emulsion of silicon-organic compounds at the concentration ranged 0.1-20 weight%, and, also, cosmetic preparation in which oxygen-transporting multiple emulsion contains perfluorocarbon compounds ranged 0.1-60 weight%. Moreover, oxygen-transporting multiple emulsion of silicon-organic compounds and, also, perfluorocarbon compounds includes organic phosphates and/or hydrocarbonates, tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase, endogenic antioxidants and/or plant extracts. Cosmetic preparation with oxygen-transporting multiple nanoemulsion provides the chance to decrease or eliminate harmful smoking aftereffects upon skin.

EFFECT: higher efficiency of protection.

10 cl, 4 dwg, 14 ex

Description

The invention relates to the field of cosmetology and dermatology and relates to means for protection against active and passive smoking.

According to the World Health Organization, more than 1.1 billion smokers live in the world - of which more than 70% are men and about 30% are women. A special group consists of hookah lovers - 100 million people. Experts call the situation with the spread of tobacco smoking unambiguously - an epidemic.

The irreversible effects of smoking on the heart, lungs, and overall human health are well known. However, the relationship between smoking and skin condition has not been given due attention to the present, although the first scientific work in this direction appeared in 1856. In 1985, the term “smoker's face” with the following characteristic features entered into scientific and medical practice: D. Model, Smocer's face: an anderrated clinical sign? Br. Med J 291 pp. 1760-1762 (1985):

- protruding lines of wrinkles,

- a characteristic appearance of a person with thin skin and prominent bony elements (cheekbones, eyebrows, etc.),

- the appearance of atrophic, slightly pigmented gray hair,

- the presence on the face of excessive formations of weak orange, purple and red.

The negative effect of smoking on blood vessels and oxygenation of the skin has been proven, especially for injuries and necrotic processes (By Yung-Hian Leow, HIMaibach, C&T, v.112, pp.31-35 (1997). There is evidence of a decrease in microcirculation and a decrease in surface skin temperature (M. Noble et al., JRRD, v.40, No. 3, pp. 283-288 (2003).

Particular attention was paid to changes in the oxygen content in the blood and skin tissues during smoking and the use of chewing gum containing nicotine. In both cases, a decrease in the partial pressure of oxygen in the skin was observed (Stanzl K. et al., SOFW, '119 (15): 942-948 (1993), Stanzl K. et al., Int. J. Cosmetic Science 18: .137 -150 (1996).

It has recently been discovered that smoking affects women more than men (VLEmster et al., Facial wrinkling in men and women by smoking status, Am. J. Public Health 85, pp. 78-82 (1995) )

Since it is known that the aging process of the skin is directly related to a decrease in the amount of oxygen in the skin, we can talk about the direct effect of smoking on the aging process.

Another factor affecting the aging process of the skin as a result of smoking is the increasing activity of matrix metalloproteinases of the dermis (matrix metalloproteinases, MMP), which destroy the components of the extracellular matrix, including its main structural element - collagen. One of the ways to protect collagen and elastin in the dermal matrix is the introduction of tissue inhibitors of MMP activity (TIMP) (A.Tibodo. "Cosmetics and Medicine", 2004, No. 5).

There is also scientific and experimental evidence of the negative effects of smoking on DNA leading to skin cancer (JN Bouwes Bavinck, MD, et al., "Relation Between Smoking and Skin Cancer" Leiden University Medical Center, Leiden, the Netherlands. Vol. 19, No. 1 (January), 2001, pp. 231-238).

Of the cosmetics presumably protecting the skin from smoking, there are known cosmetic mask films for smokers containing sapropel, D-panthenol, tapioca starch, and essential oils. Masks are designed to normalize and enhance the physiological properties of the skin (Biolit LLC, biolit.tomsk.ru).

Closest to the invention is the Ozone C line of cosmetics created by the Santeri Paris laboratory to protect skin and hair from the harmful effects of environmental factors, including how it is advertised, and from tobacco smoke (Santeri Paris advertising booklet, 2002 g.).

The composition of the “special bioactive complex” includes α-glucan oligosaccharide, a nutrient medium for the development of microflora, which provides protective functions of the skin, hawthorn extract and ETDA complexing agent. According to the authors, this complex 100% protects skin cells (fibroblasts and keratinocytes) from the negative effects of environmental factors. The disadvantage of this cosmetic line is that it consists of components of general protective action that cannot affect the specific processes of skin damage initiated by active and passive smoking. The specific conditions of the experiment to protect the skin from smoking, the results and their statistical processing are not given by the authors.

An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic product that protects the skin from damage initiated by active and passive smoking, and an oxygen-transporting multiple nanoemulsion included in its composition.

The technical result of the use of such a cosmetic skin application and oxygen-transporting multiple nanoemulsions is the ability to reduce or level the harmful effects of smoking on the skin.

This goal is achieved by creating two versions of a cosmetic product that protects the skin from damage initiated by active and passive smoking and includes a cosmetically acceptable base and an oxygen-transporting multiple nanoemulsion, in which in the first embodiment it contains an oxygen-transporting multiple emulsion of organosilicon compounds in a concentration of from 0.1 to 20 wt.% and in the second embodiment, an oxygen-transporting multiple emulsion of perfluorocarbon compounds in a concentration of from 0.1 to 60 wt.%.

This goal is also achieved by the creation of two variants of oxygen-transporting multiple emulsions based on organosilicon compounds or based on perfluorocarbon compounds, each of which includes organic phosphates in a concentration of 1.0-5.0%, and / or hydrocarbonates in a concentration of 0.2-1%, tissue metalloproteinase inhibitor at a concentration of 0.1-5.0%, endogenous antioxidants and / or plant extracts with antioxidant activity at a concentration of 0.01-3.0%.

At the same time, 2,3-diphosphoglycerate and / or hexainositol phosphate are used as organic phosphates, superoxide dismutase and / or catalase are used as endogenous antioxidants, and watermelon extract is used as a plant extract.

The creation of oxygen-transporting multiple nanoemulsions and cosmetics, including such a nanoemulsion and a cosmetically acceptable base, provides when using:

- increased oxygen supply to the skin due to oxygen vehicles and gas exchange modulators,

- sustainable protection of collagen from destruction due to the inclusion of matrix metalloproteinases in the inhibitor complex,

- DNA protection of skin cells.

Oxygen supply to the skin is ensured by the inclusion of organosilicon compounds in the composition of a multiple emulsion, which are capable of dissolving and transferring large amounts of oxygen (RF Patent No. 2252015 with priority dated 02.03.04. Laboratory Nizar-A, Moscow, RF).

Compounds capable of emitting carbon dioxide (carbonates, bicarbonates, etc.), organic phosphates (2,3-diphosphoglycerate, hexainositol phosphate) can act as a gas exchange modulator.

As a matrix metalloproteinase inhibitor, a tissue metalloproteinase inhibitor is used.

Endogenous antioxidants (superoxide dismutase and catalase enzymes), vitamins and plant extracts with antioxidant activity are used as a component of DNA protection.

An oxygen transfer multiple emulsion based on organosilicon compounds was prepared as follows.

Inverse emulsions of organosilicon compounds of the water / oil type (for the subsequent preparation of a multiple emulsion) were obtained by mixing the oil phase with aqueous solutions of biologically active substances (from the above) in the presence of an emulsifier and carbonic salts (carbonates, hydrocarbonate Karlovy Vary salt) with vigorous stirring on an ultra-mixer type "Ultraturex" and subsequent homogenization in a high-pressure homogenizer at a pressure of 200-260 at.

Organosilicon compounds may include cyclomethicones, dimethicones, mixtures thereof or other compounds with a boiling point above 150 ° C. As an emulsifier can be used cyclomethicone-dimethicone copolyol.

The concentration of organosilicon compounds is 30-70 wt.%, The concentration of emulsifier is 5.0-10.0 wt.%, The concentration of salts is 0.1-1.0 wt.%.

The particle size of emulsions according to autocorrelation spectrophotometry varied in the range of 200-600 nm.

Multiple emulsions of organosilicon compounds of the water / oil / water type were obtained by mixing an aqueous solution of sodium chloride with ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil (Cremophor RH 410) (from 5.0 to 60 vol.%), And then an inverse emulsion was added to the resulting mixture containing the necessary biologically active substances, intensively mixed on an ultra-mixer type "Ultraturex" and then homogenized in a high-pressure homogenizer at a pressure of 200-260 at.

The concentration of organosilicon compounds is 20-60 wt.%, The concentration of emulsifier is 2.0-5.0 wt.%, The concentration of salts is 0.1-1.0 wt.%, The concentration of biologically active substances is 0.1-5.0 weight .%

The particle size of the emulsions according to autocorrelation spectrophotometry varied in the range of 400-800 nm.

An oxygen transporting multiple emulsion based on perfluorocarbon compounds was prepared in a similar manner.

As perfluorocarbon or organosilicon compounds in emulsions, both individual compounds and mixtures thereof can be used.

As perfluorocarbon compounds, perfluorinated aliphatic and cyclic hydrocarbons, perfluorinated amines, perfluoropolyethers, perfluorooctyl bromide or mixtures thereof can be used. The boiling point of perfluorocarbons is 150-200 ° C.

In this case, for example, proxanol (block copolymer of ethylene and propylene oxides) can be used as an emulsifier.

Emulsions of the following composition were made:

Example No. 1. Reverse emulsion (water / oil)

Cyclomethicone 60.0 g Cyclomethicone-dimethicone copolyol 10.0 g tissue metalloproteinase inhibitor 5.0 g TIMP Karlovy Vary salt 1.0 g Hermaben 2 1.0 g Deionized water Up to 100 g

Example No. 2. Reverse emulsion (water / oil)

Cyclomethicone 25.0 g Cyclomethicone-dimethicone copolyol 5.0 g Watermelon extract 3.0 g Karlovy Vary salt 1.0 g Hermaben 2 1.0 g Deionized water Up to 100 g

Example No. 3. Reverse emulsion (v / m)

Cyclomethicone 20.0 g Dimiticon 20.0 g Cyclomethicone-dimethicone copolyol 8.0 g Hexainositol Phosphate 1.0 g Sodium hydroxide 0.65 g Karlovy Vary salt 1.0 g Hermaben 2 1.0 g Deionized water Up to 100 g

Example No. 4. Reverse emulsion (water / oil)

A mixture of perfluorocarbons: Perfluorodecalin 59.5 ml P-216 perfluoropolyether 10.5 ml Emulsifier (Proxanol P-268) 7.0 g Karlovy Vary salt 1.0 g Hermaben 2 1.0 g Deionized water Up to 100 g

Example No. 5. Multiple emulsion (water / oil / water)

Emulsion No. 3 20 g Salt 0.9 g Hydrogenated Ethyl Ethyl Castor Oil (Cremophor RH 410) 3.0 g Hermaben 2 0.8 g Deionized water Up to 100 g

Example No. 6. Multiple emulsion (water / oil / water)

Emulsion No. 2 30 g Salt 1.2 g Hydrogenated Ethyl Ethyl Castor Oil (Cremophor RH 410) 4.0 g Hermaben 2 0.7 g Deionized water Up to 100 g

Example No. 7. Multiple emulsion (water / oil / water)

Emulsion No. 1 10 g Salt 0.6 g Hydrogenated Ethyl Ethyl Castor Oil (Cremophor RH 410) 2.5 g Hermaben 2 0.75 g Deionized water Up to 100 g

Example No. 8. Multiple emulsion (water / oil / water)

Emulsion No. 4 10 g Salt 0.6 g Hydrogenated Ethyl Ethyl Castor Oil (Cremophor RH 410) 2.5 g Hermaben 2 0.75 g Deionized water Up to 100 g

Example No. 9. Multiple emulsion (water / oil / water)

Emulsion No. 1 10 g Emulsion No. 2 10 g Emulsion No. 3 10 g Salt 1.2 g Hydrogenated Ethyl Ethyl Castor Oil (Cremophor RH 410) 4.0 g Hermaben 2 0.7 g Deionized water Up to 100 g

As a cosmetically acceptable base can be used, for example, gel, fatty bases or mixtures thereof.

Example No. 10. Preparation of a gel base of a cosmetic product.

A 1% Ultrez 21 carbopol gel is prepared by dispersing 10 g of carbopol in 975 g of water, then 15 g of triethanolamine are neutralized and mixed until a homogeneous transparent mass is obtained.

Example No. 11. Preparation of the fat base of a cosmetic product.

15 g of Steareth 21, 25 g of Steareth 2, 10 g of cetearyl alcohol, 40 g of isohexadecane, 20 g of polypropylene glycol stearyl ether 15, 20 g of macadamia oil are mixed, the mixture is heated to 85 ° C, the mixture is added to 730 g of water heated to 85 ° C and the resulting mixture is homogenized on a UltraTurex speed mixer for 3 minutes until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained.

The proposed cosmetic products in addition to a cosmetically acceptable base and oxygen-transporting multiple emulsions may contain other biologically active substances, as shown in the following examples.

Example No. 12. Preparation of cosmetic products.

400 g of gel base are mixed according to example No. 10, 200 g of fat base according to example No. 11, 100 g of emulsion No. 3, 150 g of emulsion No. 6, 20 g of propylene glycol, 50 g of 2% allantoin solution, 50 g of Aloe-Vera gel , 10 g of hermaben, perfume is introduced, the total weight is adjusted to 1000 g with water, and then the resulting mixture is stirred until a homogeneous mass is obtained. A cream gel is obtained for deep cleansing of pores and evening out complexion, which protects the skin from the harmful effects of smoking.

Example No. 13. Preparation of cosmetic products.

200 g of a fat base are mixed according to example No. 11, 150 g of an emulsion according to example No. 8, 10 g of a water-alcohol extract of chamomile, 5.0 g of calcium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, 30 g of sorbitol, 8.0 g of hermabene 2, perfume are adjusted. a mass of water to 1000 g, and then the resulting mixture is stirred until a homogeneous mass. Get a tonic for deep skin cleansing, protecting the skin from the harmful effects of smoking.

Example No. 14.

50 g of benzophenone 4 are dissolved in 300 g of water, adjusted to pH 7.0 with triethanolamine, and then mixed with 400 g of a fat base according to Example No. 11. To the resulting mixture was added 200 g of the emulsion according to Example No. 9, 8.0 g of hermaben 2 was added, perfumed and the total weight was adjusted to 1000 g with water and mixed thoroughly. Get sunscreen day cream with SPF-10, which protects the skin from the harmful effects of smoking.

The graphs presented in the application show the results of studies confirming the effectiveness of the proposed funds.

Thermographically, using spatial infrared (IR) thermometry, we studied the condition of the skin of volunteers when applying cosmetic products according to example No. 13 with the inclusion of the emulsion according to example No. 8 and applying one gel base according to example No. 10.

For measurements, an uncooled microbolometric IR camera with a range of perceived radiation of 8-12 μm and a spatial resolution of 320 × 240 was used. The sensitivity of the camera was 0.08 ° C at registration with a frequency of 25 frames per minute. Measurements of skin temperature were carried out against the background of smoking a Camel cigarette from the moment of the first puff. After smoking, the test formulations were applied to the inner surface of the left forearm of the volunteers. The change in the average temperature inside the areas of application of cosmetics was recorded. An untreated skin area near the application sites was used as a control.

According to the data obtained (figure 1) in the field of applying cosmetic products according to example No. 13 with the inclusion of the emulsion according to example No. 8, there is an accelerated restoration of the skin temperature of volunteers, after its decrease caused by smoking. Whereas, when using one gel base according to example No. 10, the skin temperature is restored in the same way as in untreated areas.

Improving skin oxygenation when applying the cosmetic product according to example No. 13 with the inclusion of an emulsion according to example No. 8 and applying one gel base according to example No. 10 was investigated in experiments on Balb C mice using the ESR method of oximetry. Lithium phthalocyanine, a suspension of particles of which was injected subcutaneously, was used as an oxygen sensitive paramagnetic probe. 4 days before the experiment, the hair was removed over the injection site on the back of the experimental animals. The measurements were carried out in a thermostatic box at 36.5 ° C at an operating frequency of the EPR spectrometer of 1.1 GHz.

In accordance with the data obtained (figure 2) when applying cosmetic products according to example No. 13 with the inclusion of the emulsion according to example No. 8, there was a noticeable increase in the level of oxygen in the skin of mice, absent when applying one gel base according to example No. 10.

Inhibition of matrix metalloproteinases developed means was investigated in vitro using purified human MMP-labeled leukocytes and ^14C rat skin collagen.

According to the data obtained (figure 3) multiple emulsion according to example No. 7 has a higher inhibitory activity than TIMP in its pure form and in the composition of the emulsion No. 1. The higher ability to inhibit MMP in the developed agent in terms of TIMP is apparently associated with the presence of phytic acid in the complex. Being a multidental ligand that effectively binds metal ions, phytic acid inhibits various metal-dependent enzymes, which include metalloproteinases.

The effectiveness of the developed complex in protecting against DNA damage was investigated in the Ames test using the bacterial histidine-dependent strain Salmonella typhimurium TA1538 as a test culture. The number of reverse mutations was evaluated by the action of benzpyrene in the presence of the S-9 fraction of rat liver homogenate induced by 3-methylcholanthrene. The multiple emulsion according to example No. 9 has a higher antimutagenic activity compared to the watermelon extract used in it, which has a DNA protective effect (Fig. 4). An increase in the protective effect is expressed in a smaller number of reverse mutations when a multiple emulsion is added to the incubation medium according to Example No. 9 compared to emulsion No. 2 containing watermelon extract and pure watermelon extract. The reason for the higher antimutagenic activity of the complex most likely lies in the presence of phytic acid in it. By binding iron ions in an incubation medium, phytic acid inhibits free radical lipid peroxidation and, as a result, promotes antimutagenic and anticarcinogenic effects.

Claims (10)

1. A cosmetic product that protects the skin from damage caused by active and passive smoking, including a cosmetically acceptable base and an oxygen-carrying multiple nanoemulsion, in which it contains an oxygen-carrying multiple emulsion of organosilicon compounds in a concentration of from 0.1 to 20 wt.%. 2. An oxygen-transporting multiple emulsion of organosilicon compounds containing organic phosphates at a concentration of 1.0-5.0% and / or hydrocarbonates at a concentration of 0.2-1.0%, a tissue metalloproteinase inhibitor at a concentration of 0.1-5.0%, endogenous antioxidants and / or plant extracts with antioxidant activity in a concentration of 0.01-3.0%. 3. The emulsion according to claim 2, characterized in that 2,3-diphosphoglycerate and / or hexainositol phosphate are used as organic phosphates. 4. The emulsion according to claim 2, characterized in that superoxide dismutase and / or catalase are used as endogenous antioxidants. 5. The emulsion according to claim 2, characterized in that a watermelon extract is used as a plant extract. 6. A cosmetic product that protects the skin from damage caused by active and passive smoking, including a cosmetically acceptable base and an oxygen-transporting multiple nanoemulsion, in which it contains an oxygen-transporting multiple emulsion of perfluorocarbon compounds in a concentration of from 0.1 to 60 wt.%. 7. Oxygen-transporting multiple emulsion of perfluorocarbon compounds, including organic phosphates at a concentration of 1.0-5.0% and / or hydrocarbons at a concentration of 0.2-1%, tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinases at a concentration of 0.1-5.0%, endogenous antioxidants and / or plant extracts with antioxidant activity in a concentration of 0.01-3.0%. 8. The emulsion according to claim 7, characterized in that 2,3-diphosphoglycerate and / or hexainositol phosphate are used as organic phosphates. 9. The emulsion according to claim 7, characterized in that superoxide dismutase and / or catalase are used as endogenous antioxidants. 10. The emulsion according to claim 7, characterized in that a watermelon extract is used as a plant extract.

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