RU2122397C1 - Method of preparing a cosmetic agent for skin care - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: medicine, cosmetics. SUBSTANCE: method involves preparing a base, saline solution and its mixing with a base and natural biologically active additions. An agent has additionally buffer components to maintain pH at the range 7.5-11.0. Saline solution before its addition to a base is subjected for electrochemical treatment in diaphragm electrolyzer for 5-20 min. For preparing a cosmetic agent a part of an activated saline solution exhibiting a negative redox-potential from -200 to -700 mV is used at the following quantitative ratio of components, wt.-%: activated part of saline solution exhibiting a negative redox-potential from -200 to -700 mV with buffer components to maintain pH at the range 7.5-11.0 3.0-99.0, and a base or a base with natural biologically active additions - the rest. Saline solution is a 0.7-1.0% solution of NaCl or KCl, or CaCl₂, or MgSO₄, or their mixture at ratio 34:2:1:1, respectively, or ZnSO₄. EFFECT: high nutrient, regenerating and antiseptic properties of a cosmetic agent, improved method of preparing. 3 cl, 1 tbl, 16 ex

Description

 The invention relates to the field of cosmetics and medicine, and in particular to a technology for producing cosmetics for skin care to provide a nutritional and protective effect, to prevent skin diseases in everyday life and agricultural production.

 In the production of cosmetic preparations, various biologically active substances of both animal and plant origin are widely used. By activating the metabolism, they improve the physiological condition of the skin and have a protective effect against the influence of external factors. The presence of various salts in cosmetic preparations changes their electrical conductivity, which leads to a change in metabolism in a living cell, enhancing or inhibiting the course of biochemical reactions.

 A known method of obtaining a cosmetic product for skin care of the face, including the preparation of a cream base and sea and / or salt salt. Salt is mixed with the base in an amount of 5-20 wt.% (Application of Germany N 3232136, MKI A 61 K 7/50, 33/14, 7/40; publ. 01.03.84). Sodium chloride has a beneficial effect on dry or susceptible fungi.

 However, a cosmetic product prepared in accordance with this method has insufficient nutritional, regenerative and antiseptic effects on the cells of the skin of a person’s face, because metal ions in this salt system weakly dissociate and insufficiently interact with both skin cells and pathogenic microflora located on the skin surface.

 A known method of obtaining a composition for a nutritious facial mask, including the preparation of a base in the form of a gel and the introduction therein of a divalent metal salt, anionic surfactant and filler (Application EPO N 0045493, MKI A 61 K 7/48, publ. 10.02.82 g) .

 However, a cosmetic product prepared in accordance with this method has insufficient nutritional, regenerative and antiseptic effects on the cells of the skin of a person’s face, because metal ions in this salt system weakly dissociate and insufficiently interact with both skin cells and pathogenic microflora located on the skin surface.

A known method of obtaining a local dermatological preparation, comprising preparing a carrier and a complex of biologically active additives in the form of magnesium ions or their salts, followed by the introduction of additives into the carrier (German Patent (GDR) N 297062, IPC ⁶ A 61 K 33/06, publ. 02.01. 92 g). The drug has anti-inflammatory properties. Magnesium ions or their salts, when applied externally, have a therapeutic and cosmetic effect on the inflammatory processes that occur in the skin (eczema, psoriasis).

 However, this method is mainly intended for the production of medical preparations, which are liquid solutions that are inconvenient for use in cosmetics.

A known method of producing a night-time cosmetic anti-aging skin product, including the preparation of additives containing iron ions (in the form of iron salts) and a water-soluble or fat-soluble carrier that can hold metal ions when applying the drug to the skin surface (Application France N 2706294, IPC ⁶ A 61 K 7/035, 7/40, publ. 12/23/94 g).

 However, a cosmetic product prepared in accordance with this method has an insufficient regenerative and antiseptic effect on the cells of the skin of a person’s face, because metal ions in this preparation weakly dissociate and insufficiently interact with both skin cells and pathogenic microflora located on the surface of the skin.

 The closest technical solution (prototype) is a method of obtaining a cosmetic cream for facial skin care, including the preparation of a base, biologically active substances and a nutrient medium for mammalian cell cultures, in particular human epithelial cells containing a salt composition. (Application of France N 2535201, MKI A 61 K 7/48, 7/06; publ. 04.05.84).

 However, the cream obtained by the proposed method also has insufficient nutritional, regenerative and antiseptic effects on the cells of the skin of a person’s face, because metal ions in this salt system weakly dissociate and insufficiently interact with both skin cells and pathogenic microflora located on the skin surface.

 The objective of the invention is the creation of such a method that would provide a cosmetic product with higher nutritional, regenerating and antiseptic properties due to the preparation of activated saline solution containing strongly dissociating metal ions, which more actively interact with both skin cells and pathogenic microflora located on the surface of the skin.

This problem is solved by the fact that in the method of obtaining a cosmetic product for skin care, including obtaining a base, preparing a saline solution and mixing it with a base and biologically active additives of natural origin, according to the invention, buffering components are added to the product to maintain a pH of 7.5- 11.0, the saline solution is subjected to electrochemical treatment in a membrane electrolyzer for 5-20 minutes before being introduced into the base, and part of the active is used to prepare the cosmetic product saline solution with a negative redox potential of from -200 to -700 mV in the following quantitative ratio of the components of the agent (wt.%):
activated part of a saline solution having a negative redox potential from -200 to -700 mV with buffer components to maintain a pH of 7.5-11.0 - 3.0-99.0
base or base with biologically active additives of natural origin - Else
As the saline solution, a (0.7-1.0)% solution of NaCL, or KCl, or CaCl ₂ , or MgSO ₄ , or a mixture thereof in a ratio of 34: 2: 1: 1, respectively, or ZnSO _{4, is used} .

 A ready-made gel substance (polyethylene oxide gel or chitosan gel or a solution of chitosan derivatives or a gel-forming additive (polyethylene oxide with a molecular weight of 600-2000 kD) is used as the basis.

 Experimental studies have established that in a membrane electrolytic cell when passing a constant electric current through an aqueous solution, for example, an aqueous solution of salts, electroactivation of molecules, atoms, ions and redistribution of ions in an electric field occurs in it. As a result, part of the aqueous solution located in the cathode zone (catholyte) acquires reducing properties and stores potential energy. A catholyte with a negative redox potential (redox potential) - redox potential, in the range from -200 to -700 mV and pH 7.5-11.0 has a high biological activity, since it increases the intensity of electrochemical processes that constantly occur in living cells, in particular in skin cells. It accelerates all natural biological processes - the regeneration of cells and tissues, enzymatic, immune processes. In addition, catholyte has bacteriostatic properties.

 Chitosan is a chitin acylation product, which is a polysaccharide containing a polymer chain consisting of glucosamine units.

 Chitosan gel is made in accordance with TU 9158-001-45-44-87-78-97 by modifying (acylating) the chitosan polysaccharide with acylating agents, for example, organic acid anhydrides, to obtain a water-soluble linearly cross-linked gel.

 The polyethylene oxide gel contains 1-2% polyethylene oxide and the rest is water, packed in the structure of this polymer in accordance with TU 9154-004-11821987-93.

 As a gelling additive, a polyethylene oxide polymer with a molecular weight of 600-2000 kD is used. When mixing polyethylene oxide in an amount of 1-2 mass. % with the activated part (0.7-1.0)% saline and irradiation of the obtained product, for example with accelerated electrodes, a gel is formed.

A mixture of salts (Na ⁺ , K ⁺ , Ca ²⁺ and Mg ²⁺ ) is taken in a ratio of 34: 2: 1: 1, which is similar to their content in human blood plasma. This ensures the most physiological effect of the cosmetic product on human skin cells.

 Salt or a mixture of salts prevents crystallization of water in the epidermis, dilates blood vessels in the dermis, increasing heat transfer, which allows you to use the cream in winter conditions.

 A buffer solution, for example phosphate, or borate, or acetate buffer, ensures that the pH is maintained in the range of 7.5-11.0 over the shelf life and use of the cosmetic product (at least 6 months). In addition, the buffer solution increases the safety of the properties of catholyte (the activated part of the saline solution) in a sealed container and without light access for up to 6 months.

 As biologically active substances of natural origin, animal extracts (for example, extracts of propolis and / or honey), and / or plant extracts (for example, extracts of chamomile and / or succession), and / or products of microbiological synthesis (for example, bifid or lactobacilli).

Technology for the production of cosmetics
Example N1. First, a powdery polymer based on chitosan derivatives is prepared. To do this, take 10 g of chitosan and dissolve in 1000 ml of acetate buffer with a pH of 5.5. With vigorous stirring, a solution of the calculated amount (1 mol per 1 mol of chitosan amino groups) of maleic anhydride in a minimum volume of absolute methanol is added thereto. After 15 minutes, the reaction mass was poured into methanol. The white powdery product is washed with methanol, acetone and dried to remove volatile products. The resulting chitosan-based polymer is highly soluble in alkaline media.

 Next, take a 0.9% NaCl solution in an amount of 10 l and pour into a membrane electrolyzer, for example in an apparatus such as "Espero". After treatment of the saline solution for 10 minutes, the activated part of the saline solution is taken from the catholyte container in an amount of 2 liters with a negative redox potential (redox potential) of 450 mV and a pH of 9.0 and the phosphate-saline buffer components are introduced therein in an amount 4.5 wt.% To maintain a pH of 9.0.

 In the resulting buffered and activated saline solution with a redox potential of 450 mV and a pH of 9.0, the resulting chitosan-based polymer is dissolved in an amount of 10.0 wt.% To obtain the desired consistency in the form of a gel of a liquid consistency. The drug is stored in a small container (5.0-30 ml) in an airtight container without access to light, without bubbles and air layers for up to 6 months.

 Example 2. The preparation is obtained analogously to example 1. Only after the preparation of the gel is it added in the amount of 3 wt.% Biologically active substances such as chamomile extract, succession extract and propolis extract in a ratio of 1: 1: 2, respectively. Storage conditions are the same as in example 1.

 Example 3. First, a powdery polymer based on chitosan derivatives is prepared in accordance with Example 1.

 The activated part of the KCl-based saline solution is prepared in the same way as in Example 1 with a redox potential of -550 mV and a pH of 10.0, and the components of the acetate buffer are introduced therein in an amount of 5.5 wt.% To maintain a pH of 10.0.

 In the obtained buffered and activated saline solution with a redox potential of -550 mV and a pH of 10.0, the resulting chitosan-based polymer is dissolved with stirring in an amount of 90.0 wt.% To obtain a thick gel.

 The drug is stored in a small container (5.0-30 ml) in an airtight container without access to light, without bubbles and air layers for up to 6 months.

 Example 4. First, a powdery polymer based on chitosan derivatives is prepared in accordance with Example 1.

The activated portion of the CaCl ₂ -based saline solution is prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 with a redox potential of −550 mV and a pH of 10.0, and the components of the borate buffer are introduced therein in an amount of 5.5 wt% to maintain a pH of 10.0.

 In the obtained buffered and activated saline solution with a redox potential of -550 mV and a pH of 10.0, the resulting chitosan-based polymer is dissolved with stirring in an amount of 30.0 wt.% To obtain a gel. The drug is stored in a small container (5.0-30 ml) in an airtight container without access to light, without bubbles and air layers for up to 6 months.

 Example 5. First, a powdery polymer based on chitosan derivatives is prepared in accordance with Example 1.

The activated portion of the MgSO _4- based saline solution is prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 with a redox potential of -550 mV and a pH of 10.0, and the components of the acetate buffer are introduced therein in an amount of 5.5 wt.% To maintain a pH of 10.0.

 In the obtained buffered and activated saline solution with a redox potential of -550 mV and a pH of 10.0, the resulting chitosan-based polymer is dissolved with stirring in an amount of 40.0 wt.% To obtain a gel. The drug is stored in a small container (5.0-30 ml) in an airtight container without access to light, without bubbles and air layers for up to 6 months.

 Example 6. First, a powdery polymer based on chitosan derivatives is prepared in accordance with Example 1.

The activated part of the ZnSO _4- based saline solution is prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 with a redox potential of -450 mV and a pH of 9.0, and the components of phosphate-saline buffer are added thereto in an amount of 4.5 wt.% To maintain a pH of 9.0.

 In the obtained buffered and activated saline solution with a redox potential of -450 mV and a pH of 9.0, the resulting chitosan-based polymer is dissolved with stirring in an amount of 95.0 wt.% To obtain a thick gel. The drug is stored in a small container (5.0-30 ml) in an airtight container without access to light, without bubbles and air layers for up to 6 months.

 Example 7. First get a powdery polymer based on chitosan derivatives in accordance with example 1.

Next, take a 1.0% solution of a mixture of salts of NaCl, KCl, CaCl ₂ and MgSO ₄ in a ratio of 34: 2: 1: 1 in an amount of 10 l and pour into a membrane electrolyzer, for example in an apparatus of the type "Espero". After treatment of the saline solution for 15 minutes, the activated part of the saline solution is taken from the catholyte container in an amount of 2 liters with a negative redox potential (redox potential) of -700 mV and a pH of 11.0, and the components of the acetate buffer are introduced therein in an amount of 6, 5 wt.% To maintain a pH of 11.0.

 In the obtained buffered and activated saline solution with a redox potential of -700 mV and a pH of 11.0, the resulting chitosan-based polymer is dissolved with stirring in an amount of 40.0 wt.% To obtain a gel.

 The drug is stored in a small container (5.0 - 30 ml) in an airtight container without access to light, without bubbles and air layers for up to 6 months.

 Example 8. The drug is obtained analogously to example 7. Only after the preparation of the gel is it added in an amount of 3.0 wt.% Biologically active substances such as propolis extract and cell detritus of bifidobacteria strain Bifidobacterium bifidum N 791 in a ratio of 2: 1. Storage conditions are the same as in example 1.

 Example 9. Take a 0.7-liter NaCl solution in an amount of 10 l and pour into a membrane electrolyzer, for example in an apparatus such as "Espero". After treating the saline solution for 5-7 minutes, the activated part of the saline solution in the amount of 2 liters with a negative redox potential of -200 mV and pH 7.5 is taken from the catholyte container and the components of the phosphate-saline buffer are introduced there in the amount of 3.5 mass. % to maintain a pH of 7.5.

 The resulting buffered and activated saline solution with a redox potential of -200 mV and a pH of 7.5 is mixed with a polymer based on polyethylene oxide with a molecular weight of 600-2000 kD (gelling additive) in an amount of 1.0 mass. % The resulting product is irradiated with a stream of accelerated electrons or γ-rays with a dose of 10-30 Mrad for 5-15 seconds to form a gel. Depending on the radiation dose, a gel of appropriate consistency is obtained. The drug is also stored in a sealed container of small volume (5.0-30 ml) without access to light, without bubbles and air layers for up to 6 months.

 Example 10. The preparation is obtained analogously to example 9. Only after preparation of the gel, i.e. after irradiation of a mixture of polyethylene oxide (gel-forming additive) and the activated part of the saline solution, biologically active substances such as propolis extract and cell detritus of lactobacillus strain Lactobacillus acidophilus 317/402 Narine are introduced into it with vigorous stirring 1: 2 ratio. Storage conditions are the same as in example 9.

Example 11. Take a 0.9% solution of a mixture of salts of NaCl, KCl, CaCl ₂ and MgSO ₄ in a ratio of 34: 2: 1: 1 in an amount of 10 l and pour into a membrane electrolyzer, for example in the apparatus of the type "Espero". After treating the saline solution for 15-25 minutes, the activated part of the saline solution in the amount of 2 liters with a negative redox potential (redox potential) of -700 mV and pH 11.0 is taken from the catholyte container and the acetate buffer components are introduced into it in an amount 6.5 wt.% To maintain a pH of 11.0.

 The resulting buffered and activated saline solution with a relax potential of -700 mV and a pH of 11.0 is mixed with the prepared chitosan gel, obtained, for example, in accordance with TU 9158-001-45-44-87-78-97 by modifying (acylating) the polysaccharide chitosan by acylating agents, for example, organic acid anhydrides, to produce a water-soluble linearly crosslinked gel. A gel based on chitosan is introduced with stirring in an amount of 70.0 mass. % to obtain a product of a uniform viscous consistency. The drug is also stored in a small container (5.0-30 ml) hermetically sealed without access to light, without bubbles and air layers for up to 6 months.

 Example 12. The drug is obtained analogously to example 11. Only after the preparation of the gel is it added in the amount of 10 wt.% Biologically active substances such as chamomile extract, extract of the sequence and propolis extract in a ratio of 1: 1: 1. Storage conditions are the same as in example 11.

Example 13. Take a 0.7% solution of a mixture of salts of NaCl, KCl, CaCl ₂ and MgSO ₄ in a ratio of 34: 1: 1: 1 in an amount of 10 l and pour into a membrane electrolyzer, for example in the apparatus of the type "Espero". After treatment of the saline solution for 15 minutes, the activated part of the saline solution in the amount of 2 liters with a negative redox potential (redox potential) of -5050 mV and pH 10.0 is taken from the catholyte container and the phosphate-saline buffer components are introduced therein in an amount 5.5 wt.% To maintain a pH of 10.0.

 The resulting buffered and activated saline solution with a redox potential of -550 mV and a pH of 10.0 is mixed with a prepared polyethylene oxide gel, obtained, for example, in accordance with TU 9154-004-11821987-93. A gel based on polyethylene oxide is introduced in an amount of 50.0 wt.% To obtain a thick consistency product. The drug is also stored in a sealed container of small volume (5.0-30 ml) without access to light, without bubbles and air layers for up to 6 months.

 Example 14. The preparation is obtained analogously to example 13. Only after the preparation of the gel, 7.0 wt.% Biologically active substances such as chamomile extract, succession extract and propolis extract are added in a ratio of 1: 1: 1. Storage conditions are the same as in example 7.

Example 15. The drugs prepared by the proposed method (examples 1-14), tested for bacteriostatic and bactericidal properties. The culture of the microorganism Staphilococcus aureus (Staphylococcus aureus) was selected as a test culture. Prepared preparations in accordance with examples 1-14 are placed in sterile tubes of 2 ml each. 0.2 ml of 2 billion microbial suspensions are introduced into each tube. Control are similar samples with saline. After 15 minutes of contact with a platinum loop of standard diameter (0.8 mm ³ ) from each tube, 5 ml sterile meat-peptone broth with a pH of 7.3 is plated. Test tubes are placed in a thermostat at a temperature of 37 ^o C. Accounting is carried out daily for 7 days (turbidity of the liquid nutrient medium indicates the presence of microbial growth). The test results are shown in the table, where: (+) - the presence of microorganisms in the sample; (-) - absence of microorganisms in the sample.

 Analysis of the table shows that cosmetic preparations prepared by the proposed method, in comparison with the control sample, have a sufficiently high bacteriostatic and bactericidal effect, especially in examples 1-8 and 11-14.

 Example 16. Data on clinical trials of cosmetics obtained by the proposed method.

 Clinical trials of cosmetics obtained by the proposed method (examples 1-14) were carried out on several groups of healthy women from 15-20 people aged 30-50 years old with dry, aging and normal skin type. On examination (before the experiment), some patients had dry skin, peeling, sagging, i.e. Signs of premature skin aging. To identify individual sensitivity to creams, their prolonged use was initially preceded by preliminary tests, including applying one or two drops of one of the creams to a clean elbow bend and monitoring the condition of the skin for 0.5-1 hours. If the surface of the skin at the place of application of the cream has not changed, then proceed to apply patchwork samples on the skin with an exposure of 24 hours. In the case of a negative patch test, the cream is then applied for 3 weeks by applying a thin layer to the skin of the face and neck 1 time per day for 25-30 minutes or more. The remaining cream is removed with a napkin. When testing the cream, its effect on skin color, the presence of wrinkles, fat content and vascular reactions are noted.

 In all patients, patchwork samples were negative. It has been established that with prolonged use, the absorbency of creams is good, they soften the skin, relieve the effects of dryness, peeling, inflammation, have a hydrant effect and preserve the natural matte surface of the skin.

 Industrial applicability. The invention can be used in the food, medical and cosmetic industries.

Claims (2)

1. A method of obtaining a cosmetic product for skin care, including obtaining a base, preparing a saline solution and mixing it with a base and biologically active additives of natural origin, characterized in that the saline solution is subjected to electrochemical treatment in a membrane electrolyzer for 5 - before being introduced into the base 20 min and use part of the activated saline solution with a negative redox potential of -200 to -700 mV with the addition of buffer components in it to maintain a pH of 7.5-11.0 in the wake means appropriate ratio, wt. %:
The activated part of the saline solution having a negative redox potential from -200 to -700 mV with buffer components to maintain a pH of 7.5-11.0 - 3.0 - 99.0
Base or base with biologically active additives of natural origin - Else
2. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that as a saline solution use a 0.7-1.0% solution of NaCl, or KCl, or CaCl ₂ , or MgSO ₄ , or a mixture thereof in a ratio of 34: 2: 1: 1, respectively, or ZnSO ₄ .  3. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that the base is a polyethylene oxide gel, a gel of chitosan, or a solution of chitosan derivatives, or a gelling additive.

Images