NO893263L - METHOD AND PROCEDURES FOR Permanent Hair Change. - Google Patents
METHOD AND PROCEDURES FOR Permanent Hair Change. Download PDFInfo
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- NO893263L NO893263L NO89893263A NO893263A NO893263L NO 893263 L NO893263 L NO 893263L NO 89893263 A NO89893263 A NO 89893263A NO 893263 A NO893263 A NO 893263A NO 893263 L NO893263 L NO 893263L
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- Prior art keywords
- hair
- agent
- shape
- cysteine
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 10
- 235000018417 cysteine Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 35
- XUJNEKJLAYXESH-UHFFFAOYSA-N cysteine Natural products SCC(N)C(O)=O XUJNEKJLAYXESH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 35
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 89
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 18
- 230000001590 oxidative effect Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-GSVOUGTGSA-N (R)-(-)-Propylene glycol Chemical compound C[C@@H](O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-GSVOUGTGSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N monopropylene glycol Natural products CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000013772 propylene glycol Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000003113 alkalizing effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- BMRWNKZVCUKKSR-UHFFFAOYSA-N butane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCC(O)CO BMRWNKZVCUKKSR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- -1 alkane diols Chemical class 0.000 abstract description 5
- 125000004051 hexyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 abstract 1
- 229960002433 cysteine Drugs 0.000 description 28
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 11
- CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N thioglycolic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CS CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- LEVWYRKDKASIDU-IMJSIDKUSA-N L-cystine Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)[C@@H]([NH3+])CSSC[C@H]([NH3+])C([O-])=O LEVWYRKDKASIDU-IMJSIDKUSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 229960003067 cystine Drugs 0.000 description 7
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 6
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 description 6
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 6
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 5
- RWSOTUBLDIXVET-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dihydrogen sulfide Chemical compound S RWSOTUBLDIXVET-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- CDQSJQSWAWPGKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N butane-1,1-diol Chemical class CCCC(O)O CDQSJQSWAWPGKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 4
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 3
- 239000007800 oxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- ULWHHBHJGPPBCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N propane-1,1-diol Chemical class CCC(O)O ULWHHBHJGPPBCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000000080 wetting agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- GHOKWGTUZJEAQD-ZETCQYMHSA-N (D)-(+)-Pantothenic acid Chemical compound OCC(C)(C)[C@@H](O)C(=O)NCCC(O)=O GHOKWGTUZJEAQD-ZETCQYMHSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Isopropanol Chemical compound CC(C)O KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000004480 active ingredient Substances 0.000 description 2
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000872 buffer Substances 0.000 description 2
- HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N cholesterol Chemical compound C1C=C2C[C@@H](O)CC[C@]2(C)[C@@H]2[C@@H]1[C@@H]1CC[C@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)[C@@]1(C)CC2 HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 description 2
- KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N glycine betaine Chemical compound C[N+](C)(C)CC([O-])=O KWIUHFFTVRNATP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- QIJRTFXNRTXDIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N (1-carboxy-2-sulfanylethyl)azanium;chloride;hydrate Chemical compound O.Cl.SCC(N)C(O)=O QIJRTFXNRTXDIP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QCAHUFWKIQLBNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-(3-methoxypropoxy)propan-1-ol Chemical compound COCCCOCCCO QCAHUFWKIQLBNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XWNSFEAWWGGSKJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-acetyl-4-methylheptanedinitrile Chemical compound N#CCCC(C)(C(=O)C)CCC#N XWNSFEAWWGGSKJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 201000004384 Alopecia Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000005995 Aluminium silicate Substances 0.000 description 1
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O Ammonium Chemical compound [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 1
- BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bicarbonate Chemical compound OC([O-])=O BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Carbonate Chemical compound [O-]C([O-])=O BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- GHOKWGTUZJEAQD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chick antidermatitis factor Natural products OCC(C)(C)C(O)C(=O)NCCC(O)=O GHOKWGTUZJEAQD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920001661 Chitosan Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 206010012434 Dermatitis allergic Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 206010019030 Hair colour changes Diseases 0.000 description 1
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 239000004166 Lanolin Substances 0.000 description 1
- APFSAMXTZRYBKF-REOHCLBHSA-N N-carbamoyl-L-cysteine Chemical compound NC(=O)N[C@@H](CS)C(O)=O APFSAMXTZRYBKF-REOHCLBHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005662 Paraffin oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004153 Potassium bromate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002125 Sokalan® Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 206010044625 Trichorrhexis Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000007513 acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229920000615 alginic acid Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000010443 alginic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000005907 alkyl ester group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229940045714 alkyl sulfonate alkylating agent Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000008052 alkyl sulfonates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000012211 aluminium silicate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000001412 amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940024606 amino acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000001014 amino acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910021529 ammonia Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002280 amphoteric surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000003945 anionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N atomic oxygen Chemical compound [O] QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000440 bentonite Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910000278 bentonite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000012216 bentonite Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- SVPXDRXYRYOSEX-UHFFFAOYSA-N bentoquatam Chemical compound O.O=[Si]=O.O=[Al]O[Al]=O SVPXDRXYRYOSEX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960003237 betaine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 1
- HDFRDWFLWVCOGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N carbonothioic O,S-acid Chemical compound OC(S)=O HDFRDWFLWVCOGP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229920006317 cationic polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000003093 cationic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940107161 cholesterol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000012000 cholesterol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000003750 conditioning effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000001944 cysteine derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229960001305 cysteine hydrochloride Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000008021 deposition Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N ether Substances CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000002474 experimental method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002334 glycols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000003700 hair damage Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003676 hair loss Effects 0.000 description 1
- 208000024963 hair loss Diseases 0.000 description 1
- ACCCMOQWYVYDOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexane-1,1-diol Chemical class CCCCCC(O)O ACCCMOQWYVYDOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000001771 impaired effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 1
- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940039717 lanolin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019388 lanolin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000007774 longterm Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002736 nonionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000007524 organic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229940055726 pantothenic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019161 pantothenic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011713 pantothenic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006072 paste Substances 0.000 description 1
- UWJJYHHHVWZFEP-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,1-diol Chemical class CCCCC(O)O UWJJYHHHVWZFEP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002978 peroxides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000019271 petrolatum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004033 plastic Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920003023 plastic Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002985 plastic film Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920006255 plastic film Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004584 polyacrylic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940094037 potassium bromate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019396 potassium bromate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 1
- BDERNNFJNOPAEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N propan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCO BDERNNFJNOPAEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- HNJBEVLQSNELDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyrrolidin-2-one Chemical compound O=C1CCCN1 HNJBEVLQSNELDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003242 quaternary ammonium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229940083542 sodium Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229960001922 sodium perborate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- YKLJGMBLPUQQOI-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;oxidooxy(oxo)borane Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]OB=O YKLJGMBLPUQQOI-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000006641 stabilisation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011105 stabilization Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- AQLJVWUFPCUVLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N urea hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO.NC(N)=O AQLJVWUFPCUVLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
- A61K8/447—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof containing sulfur
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Compositions Of Macromolecular Compounds (AREA)
- Chemical And Physical Treatments For Wood And The Like (AREA)
- Pyridine Compounds (AREA)
- Devices For Checking Fares Or Tickets At Control Points (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Den foreliggende oppfinnelse angår et middel for varig hårformendring, hvilket inneholder en blanding av cystein og visse alkandioler, såvel som en fremgangsmåte for varig formendring av hår under anvendelse av dette middel. The present invention relates to an agent for permanent hair shape change, which contains a mixture of cysteine and certain alkanediols, as well as a method for permanent hair shape change using this agent.
For varig hårformendring blir vanligvis alkaliserte formendringsmidler anvendt som inneholder thioglykolsyre eller dens salter som keratinreduserende virkestoff. På grunn av dette formendringsmiddel kan imidlertid ved ukor-rekt anvendelse allergiske hudreaksjoner og hårbeskadigelser, som for eksempel hårbrudd, hårmisfarvninger eller håravfall, fremkalles. For permanent hair shape change, alkalized shape change agents are usually used that contain thioglycolic acid or its salts as keratin-reducing active ingredients. Because of this shape-changing agent, however, allergic skin reactions and hair damage, such as hair breakage, hair discoloration or hair loss, can be induced if used incorrectly.
I den senere tid er derfor hårformendringsmidler blitt foreslått som inneholder cystein som keratinreduserende virkestoff og som er en aminosyre som forekommer i naturen (for eksempel som bestanddel av hårkeratinet). In recent times, hair shape-changing agents have therefore been proposed which contain cysteine as a keratin-reducing active ingredient and which is an amino acid that occurs in nature (for example as a component of hair keratin).
Utbredelsen av cysteinholdige formendringsmidler har imidlertid, selv om de muliggjør en sikrere og mer skånsom hårformendring enn thioglykolsyreholdige midler, hittil holdt seg liten fordi cysteinholdige formendringsmidler oppviser en rekke andre ulemper. However, the spread of cysteine-containing shape-changing agents, even though they enable a safer and more gentle hair shape-changing than thioglycolic acid-containing agents, has so far remained small because cysteine-containing shape-changing agents exhibit a number of other disadvantages.
Således besitter cystein bare en svak formendringsvirksomhet såvel som en lav stabilitet. Når cysteinholdige formendringsmidler påføres på håret, blir cysteinet på Thus, cysteine has only a weak shape-changing activity as well as a low stability. When cysteine-containing shape changers are applied to the hair, the cysteine is left on
grunn av luftoxygenet hurtig oxydert til cystin som bare er tungt oppløselig i vann. Cystinet som dannes ved oxyda-sjonen, avleirer seg på håret og huden i form av et forstyrrende, vanskelig fjernbart, hvitt belegg, hvorved form-endringsresultatet blir forringet. due to the air oxygen quickly oxidized to cystine, which is only sparingly soluble in water. The cystine that is formed during the oxidation deposits itself on the hair and skin in the form of a disturbing, hard-to-remove white coating, whereby the shape-changing result is impaired.
Det er allerede blitt foretatt flere forsøk på å over-vinne de ovenfor angitte problemer. Således ble det for eksempel forsøkt å øke cysteinholdige formendringsmidlers oxydasjonsbestandighet såvel som lagringsstabilitet ved anvendelse av visse cysteinderivater. I US patentskrift 4153681 blir for unngåelse av det forstyrrende cystinbe- Several attempts have already been made to overcome the above-mentioned problems. Thus, for example, attempts were made to increase the oxidation resistance of cysteine-containing shape change agents as well as the storage stability by using certain cysteine derivatives. In US patent document 4153681, to avoid the disturbing cystine be-
legg (det vil si for å øke oxydasjonsbestandigheten) anvendelse av visse alkylestere av cystein anbefalt, mens vest-tysk utlegningsskrift 1208450 anbefaler anvendelse av N-alkanoyl- og N-aroylcysteiner. I henhold til vest-tysk add (that is to say to increase oxidation resistance) the use of certain alkyl esters of cysteine is recommended, while West German specification document 1208450 recommends the use of N-alkanoyl and N-aroylcysteines. According to West German
off. skrift 2951923 skal det være mulig å forbedre lagrings-barheten til cysteinholdige formendringsmidler ved tilsetning av N-carbamoylcystein til disse midler. Dessuten skal det ifølge japansk utlegningsskrift 48-711495 være mulig ved tilsetning til formendringsmidler på cysteinbasis av små mengder av thioglykolsyre såvel som visse kompleks-dannere å øke oxydasjonsbestandigheten til disse midler og å unngå dannelsen av den forstyrrende•hydrogensulfidlukt. Likeledes er det kjent fra US patentskrift 4322401 til alkaliske formendringsmidler på cysteinbasis å tilsette visse organiske syreanhydrider for å unngå den forstyrrende beleggdannelse på håret såvel som for stabilisering. off. document 2951923 it should be possible to improve the storability of cysteine-containing shape change agents by adding N-carbamoylcysteine to these agents. Moreover, according to Japanese explanatory document 48-711495, it should be possible by adding small amounts of thioglycolic acid as well as certain complex-formers to cysteine-based shape change agents to increase the oxidation resistance of these agents and to avoid the formation of the disturbing hydrogen sulphide smell. Likewise, it is known from US patent document 4322401 to alkaline cysteine-based shape change agents to add certain organic acid anhydrides to avoid the disturbing coating formation on the hair as well as for stabilization.
Alle forslag som hittil er blitt fremsatt for å løse All proposals that have been made so far to solve
de problemer som oppstår for formendringsmidler på cysteinbasis, har imidlertid ikke være tilfredsstillende fordi de foreslåtte formendringsmidlers formendringsegenskaper var utilstrekkelige. however, the problems encountered with cysteine-based shape change agents have not been satisfactory because the shape change properties of the proposed shape change agents were insufficient.
Fra litteraturen, for eksempel fra US patentskrift 3433868, er det videre kjent at visse mercaptocarboxylsyre-holdige (for eksempel thioglykolsyreholdige) formendringsmidlers krølltegenskaper vil kunne forbedres ved tilsetning av visse alkandioler (for eksempel 1,2-propandiol eller 1,3-butandiol). En anvendelse av slike alkandioler i cysteinholdige formendringsmidler er imidlertid ikke kjent fra litteraturen. From the literature, for example from US patent 3433868, it is further known that the curling properties of certain mercaptocarboxylic acid-containing (for example thioglycolic acid-containing) shape change agents can be improved by the addition of certain alkanediols (for example 1,2-propanediol or 1,3-butanediol). However, a use of such alkanediols in cysteine-containing shape change agents is not known from the literature.
Det er en oppgave for den foreliggende oppfinnelse å stille et middel for varig hårformendring på cysteinbasis til disposisjon, som på den ene side besitter en høy lagringsstabilitet - det vil si er oxydasjonsuømfintlig og under lagringen danner intet hydrogensulfid - såvel som er fritt for forstyrrende beleggdannelse og på den annen side besitter en høy formendringsvirksomhet. It is a task for the present invention to provide a means for permanent hair shape change based on cysteine, which on the one hand has a high storage stability - that is, is insensitive to oxidation and does not form hydrogen sulphide during storage - as well as being free from disturbing coating formation and on the other hand possesses a high shape change activity.
Det ble nå overraskende funnet at ved tilsetning av It was now surprisingly found that by adding
én eller flere uforgrenede alkandioler med en C^- til Cg-alkylkjede til cysteinholdige hårformendringsmidler kan såvel disse midlers formendringsvirksomhet økes som også dannelsen av hydrogensulfid under lagringen såvel som dannelsen av forstyrrende cystinbelegg hindres. one or more unbranched alkanediols with a C^- to Cg-alkyl chain to cysteine-containing hair shape-changing agents, the shape-changing activity of these agents can be increased as well as the formation of hydrogen sulphide during storage as well as the formation of disturbing cystine coatings can be prevented.
Den foreliggende oppfinnelses gjenstand er derfor et middel for varig formendring av hår på basis av cystein, hvilket er kjennetegnet ved at det inneholder minst én uforgrenet alkandiol med en C^- til C^-alkylkjede i et minst tredobbelt overskudd, basert på cysteinmengden. The object of the present invention is therefore an agent for permanent hair change based on cysteine, which is characterized by the fact that it contains at least one unbranched alkanediol with a C^- to C^-alkyl chain in at least a threefold excess, based on the amount of cysteine.
Som alkandiol er rettkjedede dihydroxyalkaner med 3 til 6 carbonatomer i alkylkjeden, som n-propandioler, n-butandioler, n-pentandioler og- n-hexandioler, egnede, hvorved 1,2-propandiol og 1,2-butandiol såvel som blandinger av disse to forbindelser er spesielt foretrukne. As alkanediols, straight-chain dihydroxyalkanes with 3 to 6 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain, such as n-propanediols, n-butanediols, n-pentanediols and n-hexanediols, are suitable, whereby 1,2-propanediol and 1,2-butanediol as well as mixtures of these two compounds are particularly preferred.
Hårformendringsmidlet ifølge oppfinnelsen inneholder alkandiolen fortrinnsvis i en mengde fra ca. 20 til 7 5 vekt%. The hair shape change agent according to the invention preferably contains the alkanediol in an amount from approx. 20 to 75% by weight.
Som formendringsvirksom, hårkeratinreduserende komponent inneholder hårformendringsmidlet ifølge oppfinnelsen cystein som også kan foreligge i form av dets salter (for eksempel som cysteinhydrokloridmonohydrat), i en mengde fra ca. 2 til 25 vekt%, fortrinnsvis i en mengde fra ca. 6 til 20 vekt%. As a shape-changing, hair keratin-reducing component, the hair shape-changing agent according to the invention contains cysteine, which can also be present in the form of its salts (for example as cysteine hydrochloride monohydrate), in an amount from approx. 2 to 25% by weight, preferably in an amount from approx. 6 to 20% by weight.
Vektforholdet mellom cystein og alkandiol i midlet ifølge oppfinnelsen utgjør minst 1:3, fortrinnsvis 1:3 til 1:5. The weight ratio between cysteine and alkanediol in the agent according to the invention is at least 1:3, preferably 1:3 to 1:5.
Midlet for varig hårformendring foreligger fortrinnsvis i form av en vandig oppløsning eller emulsjon og besitter en pH-verdi fra ca. 7 til 10. Det kan imidlertid også foreligge i fortykket form på vandig basis, spesielt som krem. Den nødvendige alkalinitet blir herved innstilt ved tilsetning av ammoniakk, organiske aminer, ammonium- The agent for permanent hair shape change is preferably in the form of an aqueous solution or emulsion and has a pH value of approx. 7 to 10. However, it can also be present in a thickened form on an aqueous basis, especially as a cream. The required alkalinity is thereby adjusted by adding ammonia, organic amines, ammonium
og alkalicarbonat eller -hydrogencarbonat. and alkali carbonate or bicarbonate.
Selvfølgelig kan midlet ifølge oppfinnelsen for varig hårformendring inneholde alle tilsetningsstoffer som er vanlige og kjente for et slikt middel, for eksempel for-tykningsmidler, som for eksempel kaolin, bentonitt, fett-syrer, høyere fettalkoholer, stivelse, polyacrylsyre og deres derivater, cellulosederivater, alginater, vaseliner eller parafinolje, fuktemidler eller emulgatorer fra gruppene de anioniske, kationiske, amfotere eller ikke-ionogene over-flateaktive stoffer, for eksempel fettalkoholsulfater, fett-alkoholethersulfater, alkylsulfonater, alkylbenzensulfonater, kvartære ammoniumsalter, alkylbetainer, oxethylerte fettalkoholer, oxethylerte alkylfenoler, fettsyrealkanolamider eller oxethylerte fettsyreestere, videre uklarhetsgjørende midler, som for eksempel polyethylenglykolester, eller alkoholer, som for eksempel ethanol, propanol, isopropanol eller glycerol, oppløsningsformidlere, stabilisatorer, pufferstoffer, parfymeoljer, fargestoffer såvel som hår-kondisjonerende og hårpleiende bestanddeler, som for eksempel kationiske polymerer, chitosanderivater, lanolinderivater, kolesterol, pantothensyre eller betain. De nevnte bestanddeler anvendes i de mengder som er vanlige for slike formål, for eksempel fuktemidlene og emulgatorene i konsentrasjoner fra ca. 0,2 til 10 vekt%, mens fortykningsmidlene kan være inneholdt i dette middel i en mengde fra ca. 1,0 til 25 vekt%. Of course, the agent according to the invention for permanent hair shape change can contain all additives that are common and known for such an agent, for example thickeners, such as kaolin, bentonite, fatty acids, higher fatty alcohols, starch, polyacrylic acid and their derivatives, cellulose derivatives, alginates, petroleum jelly or paraffin oil, wetting agents or emulsifiers from the groups of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants, for example fatty alcohol sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, quaternary ammonium salts, alkyl betaines, oxethylated fatty alcohols, oxethylated alkylphenols, fatty acid alkanolamides or oxyethylated fatty acid esters, further clouding agents, such as polyethylene glycol esters, or alcohols, such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol or glycerol, solubilizers, stabilizers, buffer substances, perfume oils, dyes as well as hair conditioning and h year-care ingredients, such as cationic polymers, chitosan derivatives, lanolin derivatives, cholesterol, pantothenic acid or betaine. The aforementioned components are used in the quantities that are usual for such purposes, for example the wetting agents and emulsifiers in concentrations from approx. 0.2 to 10% by weight, while the thickeners can be contained in this agent in an amount from approx. 1.0 to 25% by weight.
Videre kan i tillegg kjente virkningsforsterkende stoffer, som for eksempel dipropylenglykolmonomethylether eller 2-pyrrolidon, tilsettes til dette middel i en mengde fra ca. 2 til 30 vekt%. Furthermore, known effect-enhancing substances, such as dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether or 2-pyrrolidone, can also be added to this agent in an amount from approx. 2 to 30% by weight.
Midlet for varig hårformendring ifølge den foreliggende oppfinnelse er oxydasjonsuømfintlig, utvikler også ved lang-varig lagring ingen hydrogensulfidlukt og viser ved an-vendelsen ingen forstyrrende beleggdannelse. Midlet ifølge oppfinnelsen muliggjør en tydelig økning av formendrings-virkningen sammenlignet med vanlige formendringsmidler på cysteinbasis fordi en økning av cysteininnholdet nå er mulig uten at forstyrrende bivirkninger opptrer. The agent for permanent hair shape change according to the present invention is insensitive to oxidation, develops no hydrogen sulphide smell even during long-term storage and shows no disturbing coating formation during use. The agent according to the invention enables a clear increase in the shape-changing effect compared to usual cysteine-based shape-changing agents because an increase in the cysteine content is now possible without disturbing side effects occurring.
Dette formendringsmiddels gode lagringsbarhet kan økes ytterligere dersom midlet istedenfor i form av et énkomponent-preparat emballeres i form av et tokomponentpreparat - hvorved den første, vannfrie komponent inneholder cysteinet og alkandiolen, mens den annen, vannfrie komponent inneholder et alkaliseringsmiddel såvel som ytterligere tilsetninger som er vanlige for permanentformendringsmidler - og det bruksferdige middel fremstilles umiddelbart før bruken ved å blande de to komponenter med hverandre. This shape-changing agent's good storability can be further increased if the agent is instead packaged in the form of a one-component preparation in the form of a two-component preparation - whereby the first, anhydrous component contains the cysteine and the alkanediol, while the second, anhydrous component contains an alkalizing agent as well as additional additives which are common for permanent shape-changing agents - and the ready-to-use agent is prepared immediately before use by mixing the two components together.
Den foreliggende oppfinnelse angår videre en fremgangs måte for varig formendring av hår, hvor man behandler håret med et formendringsmiddel før og/eller efter at man har bragt det i den ønskede form, skyller med vann, derefter efterbehandler oxyderende, skyller med vann, derpå The present invention further relates to a method for permanently changing the shape of hair, where the hair is treated with a shape-changing agent before and/or after it has been brought into the desired shape, rinsed with water, then oxidizing after-treatment, rinsed with water, then
legger frisyren og derefter tørker, hvilken er kjennetegnet ved at for formendringsbehandlingen anvendes det ovenfor beskrevne formendringsmiddel på cysteinbasis som inneholder ett, basert på cysteinmengden, radnst;tre gangers overskudd av en alkandiol med en C^- til C^-alkylkjede. lays the hairstyle and then dries, which is characterized by the above-described cysteine-based shape-changing agent being used for the shape-changing treatment, which contains one, based on the amount of cysteine, radnst;three-fold excess of an alkanediol with a C^- to C^-alkyl chain.
Ved en utførelsesform av fremgangsmåten ifølge oppfinnelsen blir håret oppdelt i enkelte knipper og viklet på viklere med en diameter fra ca. 5 til 13 millimeter. Derefter blir håret behandlet med formendringsmidlet ifølge oppfinnelsen i en mengde som er tilstrekkelig for hårform-endringen, fortrinnsvis ca. 80 til 120 gram. In one embodiment of the method according to the invention, the hair is divided into individual bundles and wound on winders with a diameter of approx. 5 to 13 millimeters. The hair is then treated with the shape-changing agent according to the invention in an amount that is sufficient for the hair shape change, preferably approx. 80 to 120 grams.
Ved en ytterligere utførelsesform av fremgangsmåten ifølge oppfinnelsen blir håret i tilknytning til hårvaskingen forhåndsfuktet med en del av formendringsmidlet, fortrinnsvis ca. 40 til 60 gram, oppdelt i enkelte knipper og viklet på viklere. Derpå blir håret ennå en gang behandlet med resten av formendringsmidlet, fortrinnsvis ca. 40 til 60 gram. In a further embodiment of the method according to the invention, the hair is pre-moistened with part of the shape-changing agent, preferably approx. 40 to 60 grams, divided into individual bundles and wound on winders. The hair is then treated once again with the rest of the shape-changing agent, preferably approx. 40 to 60 grams.
Efter en innvirkningstid som er tilstrekkelig for After an impact time that is sufficient for
varig formendring av håret og som alt efter hårets beskaffenhet, pH-verdien og formendringsmidlets formendringsvirksomhet såvel som i avhengighet av anvendelsestemperaturen utgjør ca. 5 til 45 minutter (5 til 30 minutter med varmepåvirkning ; 20 til 45 minutter uten varmepåvirkning), blir håret skylt med vann og derefter efterbehandlet oxyderende ("fiksert"). Efterbehandlingsmidlet blir anvendt i en mengde fra ca. 80 til 100 gram alt efter hårets fyldighet. permanent change of shape of the hair and which, depending on the nature of the hair, the pH value and the shape-changing activity of the shape-changing agent as well as depending on the application temperature, amounts to approx. 5 to 45 minutes (5 to 30 minutes with heat exposure; 20 to 45 minutes without heat exposure), the hair is rinsed with water and then oxidized ("fixed"). The finishing agent is used in an amount from approx. 80 to 100 grams depending on the fullness of the hair.
For den oxyderende etterbehandling kan et hvilket som helst ønsket efterbehandlingsmiddel som hittil er blitt anvendt for en slik behandling, anvendes. Eksempler på oxydasjonsmidler som er anvendbare i et slikt efterbehandlingsmiddel, er natrium- og kaliumbromat, natriumper-borat, ureaperoxyd og hydrogenperoxyd. For the oxidizing post-treatment, any desired post-treatment agent which has hitherto been used for such treatment can be used. Examples of oxidizing agents which can be used in such a finishing agent are sodium and potassium bromate, sodium perborate, urea peroxide and hydrogen peroxide.
Konsentrasjonen av oxydasjonsmidlet er forskjellig i avhengighet av anvendelsestiden (som regel ca. 5 til 15 minutter) og anvendelsestemperaturen. Vanligvis foreligger oxydasjonsmidlet i det vandige efterbehandlingsmiddel i en konsentrasjon fra ca. 0,5 til 10 vekt%. Midlet for den oxyderende efterbehandling kan selvfølgelig inneholde ytterligere stoffer, som for eksempel fuktemidler, svake syrer, pufferstoffer eller peroxydstabilisatorer, og kan foreligge såvel i form av en vandig oppløsning eller emulsjon som i fortykket form på vandig basis, spesielt som krem, gel eller pasta. The concentration of the oxidizing agent differs depending on the application time (usually about 5 to 15 minutes) and the application temperature. Usually, the oxidizing agent is present in the aqueous finishing agent in a concentration from approx. 0.5 to 10% by weight. The agent for the oxidizing post-treatment can of course contain additional substances, such as wetting agents, weak acids, buffer substances or peroxide stabilizers, and can be present both in the form of an aqueous solution or emulsion and in a thickened form on an aqueous basis, especially as a cream, gel or paste .
Derefter blir viklerne fjernet. Om nødvendig kan The wraps are then removed. If necessary can
det avviklede hår nå igjen efterbehandles oxyderende. Derefter blir håret skylt med vann, lagt for frisyre og til slutt tørket. the unwound hair is now again post-treated oxidizingly. The hair is then rinsed with water, styled and finally dried.
De efterfølgende eksempler skal forklare oppfinnelsens gjenstand nærmere uten å begrense den til disse. The following examples shall explain the object of the invention in more detail without limiting it to these.
Eksempler Examples
Før bruk blir de to komponenter blandet med hverandre. Det bruksferdige permanentkrøllingsmiddel oppviser en pH-verdi mellom 9,1 og 9,3. Before use, the two components are mixed together. The ready-to-use permanent curling agent has a pH value between 9.1 and 9.3.
Det vaskede og håndkletørkede hår blir viklet opp på viklere med en diameter av 7 millimeter og derefter godt gjennomfuktet med det ovenstående permanentkrøllingsmiddel. Derpå blir håret dekket med en plasthette. Efter en innvirkningstid på 25 minutter ved romtemperatur blir tildekningen fjernet, håret skylt med vann og derpå oxyderende efterbehandlet med 100 gram av en 3-prosentig hydrogenper-oxydoppløsning. Efter fjerning av viklerne blir håret på ny skylt med vann, lagt for vannbølging og derefter tørket. The washed and towel-dried hair is wound up on curlers with a diameter of 7 millimeters and then thoroughly moistened with the above permanent curling agent. The hair is then covered with a plastic cap. After an exposure time of 25 minutes at room temperature, the covering is removed, the hair is rinsed with water and then oxidatively treated with 100 grams of a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution. After removing the wraps, the hair is rinsed again with water, applied for water waves and then dried.
Det fås en jevn omformning uten forstyrrende cystinavleiringer på håret. An even reshaping is achieved without disturbing cystine deposits on the hair.
Eksempel 2: Permanentkrøllingsmiddel på cysteinbasis Example 2: Cysteine-based permanent curling agent
Formendringsmidlets pH-verdi utgjør 9,1. The shape changer's pH value is 9.1.
Håret blir vasket med en mild sjampo. Derefter blir det håndkletørkede hår forhånds fuktet med tilnærmet halv-parten av den ovenfor angitte krøllingsvæske, viklet opp på permanentkrøllingsviklere med en diameter av 8 millimeter og derpå efterfuktet med resten av permanentkrøllingsvæsken. Derefter blir håret tildekket med en plastfolie. Efter en innvirkningstid på 12 minutter ved 50°C blir tildekningen fjernet, det oppviklede hår grundig skylt med vann og derefter oxyderende efterbehandlet med 80 gram av 3-prosentig hydrogenperoxydoppløsning. Efter fjerning av viklerne blir håret på ny skylt med vann og derefter lagt for frisyre og tørket. The hair is washed with a mild shampoo. The towel-dried hair is then pre-moistened with approximately half of the above-mentioned curling fluid, wound on permanent curling rollers with a diameter of 8 millimeters and then re-moistened with the rest of the permanent curling fluid. The hair is then covered with a plastic film. After an exposure time of 12 minutes at 50°C, the covering is removed, the coiled hair thoroughly rinsed with water and then oxidizingly post-treated with 80 grams of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide solution. After removing the wraps, the hair is rinsed again with water and then styled and dried.
Det således behandlede hår har en jevn krusethet hvis lokker oppviser en god elastisitet og fjæringskraft, og er fritt for forstyrrende cystinavleiringer. The hair treated in this way has a uniform frizziness, the tresses of which exhibit good elasticity and springing power, and are free of disturbing cystine deposits.
Eksempel 3: Permanentkrøllingsmiddel Example 3: Permanent curling agent
Permanentkrøllingsmidlets pH-verdi utgjør 9,5. The permanent curling agent's pH value is 9.5.
Formendringsbehandlingen finner sted på den måte The form change processing takes place in that way
som er beskrevet i Eksempel 2. which is described in Example 2.
Sammenligningsforsøk Comparison experiment
Krøllingsegenskapene for de følgende 5 permanent-krøllingsmidler sammenlignes ved hjelp av hårstrengforsøk: The curling properties of the following 5 permanent curling agents are compared using hair strand tests:
(A) Permanentkrøllingsmiddel ifølge Eksempel 1 (A) Permanent curling agent according to Example 1
(B) Permanentkrøllingsmiddel ifølge Eksempel 3 (B) Permanent curling agent according to Example 3
(C) Permanentkrøllingsmiddel ifølge Eksempel 3, men med (C) Permanent curling agent according to Example 3, but with
et butandiolinnhold av 10 vektprosent istedenfor 45 a butanediol content of 10% by weight instead of 45
vektprosent weight percent
(D) permanentkrøllingsmiddel ifølge Eksempel 1, men med et innhold av 5 vekt% propandiol istedenfor 35 vekt% (D) permanent curling agent according to Example 1, but with a content of 5% by weight propanediol instead of 35% by weight
butandiol/propandiol butanediol/propanediol
(E) permanentkrøllingsmiddel ifølge Eksempel 3, men uten butandioltilsetning (E) permanent curling agent according to Example 3, but without butanediol addition
For de i Eksemplene (C), (D) og (E) anvendte permanent-krøllingsmidler ble den manglende mengde av alkandiol er-stattet med vann. For the permanent curling agents used in Examples (C), (D) and (E), the missing amount of alkanediol was replaced with water.
Hårstrengfors-øket ble utført som følger: The hair strand fors increase was performed as follows:
Først ble hårstrengen viklet opp på en spiralvikler og gjennomfuktet med permanentkrøllingsmidlet (A). Efter en innvirkningstid på 2 0 minutter ved 45°C ble håret skylt med vann, derpå fiksert med en 2,5-prosentig hydrogenperoxydopp-løsning og på ny skylt med vann. Derefter ble vikleren fjernet, hårstrengen tørket og hårstrengens .lengde (lineær avstand mellom de overfor hverandre liggende ender) målt (måling (a)). First, the hair strand was wound up on a spiral winder and moistened with the permanent curling agent (A). After an exposure time of 20 minutes at 45°C, the hair was rinsed with water, then fixed with a 2.5 percent hydrogen peroxide solution and rinsed again with water. Then the winder was removed, the hair strand was dried and the length of the hair strand (linear distance between the opposite ends) was measured (measurement (a)).
Hårstrengen ble derefter opphengt i 5 timer i klima-skapet ved 80% relativ luftfuktighet og derpå hengt i 1 time i vann. Derefter ble hårstrengens lengde på ny målt (måling (b)). The strand of hair was then hung for 5 hours in the climate cabinet at 80% relative humidity and then hung for 1 hour in water. The length of the hair strand was then measured again (measurement (b)).
Fra de således erholdte verdier ble krøllingseffekten beregnet ved hjelp av den følgende ligning: From the values thus obtained, the curling effect was calculated using the following equation:
mit LQ = hårstrengens begynnelffeslengde mit LQ = initial phase length of the hair strand
L = hårstrengens lengde efter behandlingen L = the length of the hair strand after the treatment
= hårstrengens lengde i oppviklet tilstand = the length of the hair strand in the coiled state
I tillegg til krøllingseffekten ble den behandlede hårstrengs tilstand bedømt hva gjaldt glans, grep og ut-seende. In addition to the curling effect, the condition of the treated hair strand was judged in terms of shine, grip and appearance.
Permanentkrøllingsmidlene (B), (C), (D) og (E) ble undersøkt hva gjaldt deres krøllingseffekt på den måte som er beskrevet for midlet (A), hvorved for alle sammenlignings-forsøk hårstrenger med samme beskaffenhet (ubeskadiget normalhår med en lengde av 16 cm og en vekt av 0,1 g pr. hårstreng) ble anvendt. Den anvendte spiralviklers diameter utgjorde 8 millimeter. The permanent curling agents (B), (C), (D) and (E) were examined for their curling effect in the manner described for the agent (A), whereby for all comparison trials strands of hair of the same nature (undamaged normal hair with a length of 16 cm and a weight of 0.1 g per hair strand) was used. The diameter of the spiral winding used was 8 millimeters.
Resultatene av disse sammenligningsforsøk er sammen-fattet i den etterfølgende Tabell 1. (a) Krøllingseffekt direkte efter formendringsbehandlingen (b) Krøllingseffekt efter fem timers oppholdstid i klima-skapet såvel som efter én éntimes vannbehandling. The results of these comparison tests are summarized in the following Table 1. (a) Curling effect directly after the shape change treatment (b) Curling effect after five hours' residence time in the climate cabinet as well as after one one-hour water treatment.
Som det kan ses fra Tabell 1 besitter midlene ifølge oppfinnelsen (permanentkrøllingsmidler (A) og (B)) umiddelbart efter permanentkrøllingsbehandlingen en svakt øket krøllingsintensitet sammenlignet med et middel som ikke er ifølge oppfinnelsen, med det samme cysteininnhold (permanent-krøllingsmidler (C) til (E)). As can be seen from Table 1, the agents according to the invention (permanent curling agents (A) and (B)) immediately after the permanent curling treatment have a slightly increased curling intensity compared to an agent not according to the invention, with the same cysteine content (permanent curling agents (C) to (E)).
Efter 5 timer ved 80% relativ luftfuktighet og derpå uthenging av hårstrengen i én time i vann besitter per-manentkrøllingsmidlene (A) og (B) imidlertid en tydelig øket krøllingsintensitet i forhold til permanentkrøllings-midlene (C), (D) og (E). Dette betyr at midlene (A) og (B) ifølge oppfinnelsen er vesentlig bedre hva gjelder krøllings-stabiliteten (det vil si permanentkrøllens bestandighet) sammenlignet med permanentkrøllingsmidler for hvilke forholdet av cystein og alkandiol er mindre enn 1:3 (permanentkrøllings-midler (C) , (D) og (E) ) . However, after 5 hours at 80% relative humidity and then hanging the hair strand for one hour in water, the permanent curling agents (A) and (B) have a clearly increased curling intensity compared to the permanent curling agents (C), (D) and (E) ). This means that the agents (A) and (B) according to the invention are significantly better in terms of curling stability (that is, the perm's permanence) compared to permanent curling agents for which the ratio of cysteine to alkanediol is less than 1:3 (permanent curling agents (C ) , (D) and (E) ) .
I tillegg fremgår det at hår behandlet med permanent-krøllingsmidlene (D) og (E) er noe hvitaktig og stygt som følge av avsetningen avcystin. I motsetning hertil oppstår ved permanentkrøllingsmidlene (A) og (B) ifølge oppfinnelsen ikke et slikt fenomen, og håret besitter en sterkere glans. Likeledes er luktplagen ved permanent-krøllingsmidlene (A) og (B) vesentlig mindre enn ved per-manentkrøllingsmidlene (C) , (D) og (E) . In addition, it appears that hair treated with the permanent curling agents (D) and (E) is somewhat whitish and ugly as a result of the deposition of cystine. In contrast, with the permanent curling agents (A) and (B) according to the invention, such a phenomenon does not occur, and the hair has a stronger shine. Likewise, the odor problem with the permanent curling agents (A) and (B) is significantly less than with the permanent curling agents (C), (D) and (E).
Hva gjelder det behandlede hårs grep og beføling fremgår det at overflaten til det med permanentkrøllingsmidlene As regards the grip and feel of the treated hair, it appears that the surface of that with the permanent curling agents
(C), (D) og (E) behandlede hår er mindre mykt og at hårets grep er stivt, mens håret behandlet med oppløsningene (A) (C), (D) and (E) treated hair is less soft and that the grip of the hair is stiff, while the hair treated with the solutions (A)
og (B) ifølge oppfinnelsen føles meget mykt og glatt. and (B) according to the invention feels very soft and smooth.
Claims (10)
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DE19873742401 DE3742401A1 (en) | 1987-12-15 | 1987-12-15 | MEANS AND METHOD FOR PERMANENT HAIR DEFORMING |
PCT/EP1988/001001 WO1989005627A1 (en) | 1987-12-15 | 1988-11-04 | Preparation and process for permanently waving the hair |
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NO893263D0 NO893263D0 (en) | 1989-08-14 |
NO893263L true NO893263L (en) | 1989-08-14 |
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NO89893263A NO893263L (en) | 1987-12-15 | 1989-08-14 | METHOD AND PROCEDURES FOR Permanent Hair Change. |
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JP (1) | JPH02502539A (en) |
KR (1) | KR890701081A (en) |
AT (1) | ATE71281T1 (en) |
DE (2) | DE3742401A1 (en) |
DK (1) | DK392989D0 (en) |
ES (1) | ES2037797T3 (en) |
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---|---|---|---|---|
JPH0745388B2 (en) * | 1990-11-28 | 1995-05-17 | 花王株式会社 | Hair treatment composition |
DE9103513U1 (en) * | 1991-03-22 | 1992-07-16 | Goldwell AG, 6100 Darmstadt | Agents for deforming human hair and use of ammonium carbamate in such agents |
DE4304828C1 (en) * | 1993-02-17 | 1994-06-09 | Goldwell Ag | Permanent waving system for human hair - comprising a soln. contg. thioglycolic acid, aminoacid hydrochloride and a poly:ol, mixed before use with a soln. contg. ammonium bi:carbonate |
FR2707486B1 (en) * | 1993-07-16 | 1995-08-18 | Oreal | Process for permanent deformation of keratin materials. |
DE69433639T2 (en) * | 1993-12-17 | 2005-02-10 | Kao Corp. | Hair extension using compositions containing keratin reducing substances and alcohols |
DE4402328C2 (en) * | 1994-01-27 | 1996-05-02 | Goldwell Gmbh | Means for permanent deformation of human hair |
DE4406922C2 (en) * | 1994-02-28 | 2002-11-21 | Gabriele Wyeth Ohg Kosmetik Be | Hair treatment process |
DE4436065A1 (en) * | 1994-10-10 | 1996-04-11 | Henkel Kgaa | Means and processes for permanent deformation of keratin fibers |
DE19714162C1 (en) * | 1997-04-05 | 1998-08-27 | Goldwell Gmbh | Permanent hair-styling composition with reducing agent |
DE19930769A1 (en) * | 1999-07-03 | 2000-03-16 | Schwarzkopf Gmbh Hans | Process for permanent deformation of keratinous fibers and agents |
Family Cites Families (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
GB1283892A (en) * | 1970-06-08 | 1972-08-02 | Irwin Irville Lubowe | Improvements in and relating to medicinal compositions for application to the skin and/or hair |
JPS52128241A (en) * | 1976-04-19 | 1977-10-27 | Kyowa Hakko Kogyo Co Ltd | Reagents for permanent wave |
GB2038385B (en) * | 1978-12-25 | 1982-12-22 | Kanegafuchi Chemical Ind | Permanent waving composition |
-
1987
- 1987-12-15 DE DE19873742401 patent/DE3742401A1/en not_active Withdrawn
-
1988
- 1988-11-04 DE DE8888118421T patent/DE3867613D1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1988-11-04 EP EP88118421A patent/EP0320612B1/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1988-11-04 ES ES198888118421T patent/ES2037797T3/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1988-11-04 AT AT88118421T patent/ATE71281T1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1988-11-04 JP JP63509213A patent/JPH02502539A/en active Pending
- 1988-11-04 KR KR1019890701087A patent/KR890701081A/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1988-11-04 WO PCT/EP1988/001001 patent/WO1989005627A1/en active Application Filing
-
1989
- 1989-08-02 FI FI893670A patent/FI893670A0/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1989-08-10 DK DK392989A patent/DK392989D0/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1989-08-14 NO NO89893263A patent/NO893263L/en unknown
-
1990
- 1990-03-14 GR GR89300154T patent/GR890300154T1/en unknown
-
1992
- 1992-03-31 GR GR920400560T patent/GR3004189T3/el unknown
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
GR890300154T1 (en) | 1990-03-14 |
JPH02502539A (en) | 1990-08-16 |
EP0320612B1 (en) | 1992-01-08 |
ATE71281T1 (en) | 1992-01-15 |
DK392989A (en) | 1989-08-10 |
NO893263D0 (en) | 1989-08-14 |
DK392989D0 (en) | 1989-08-10 |
ES2037797T3 (en) | 1993-07-01 |
FI893670A0 (en) | 1989-08-02 |
DE3742401A1 (en) | 1989-07-06 |
EP0320612A1 (en) | 1989-06-21 |
GR3004189T3 (en) | 1993-03-31 |
WO1989005627A1 (en) | 1989-06-29 |
DE3867613D1 (en) | 1992-02-20 |
KR890701081A (en) | 1989-12-19 |
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