MXPA99010834A - Skin care compositions and method of improving skin appearance - Google Patents

Abstract

Disclosed are topical compositions which provide good coverage of skin imperfections, e. g., pores and uneven skin tone, while retaining a natural skin apperance. The compositions contain a particulate material having a refractive index of at least about 2, e.g., TiO2.

Description

COMPOSITIONS FOR SKIN CARE AND METHOD FOR IMPROVING SKIN APPEARANCE TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to the field of topical compositions for improving the appearance or other condition of the skin. More particularly, the invention relates to topical compositions that provide adequate coverage of skin imperfections, for example, pores and uneven skin tone while maintaining a natural appearance of the skin.

BACKGROUND A variety of compounds have been described in the art as being useful for regulating fine lines, wrinkles or other undesirable texture patterns on the surface of the skin. In addition, it has recently been found that vitamin B3 compounds, particularly niacinamide, provide measurable benefits for regulating the condition of the skin, including the regulation of fine lines; wrinkles and other forms of uneven or rough texture on the surface associated with skin that is aged or damaged by sunlight. However, many materials require multiple applications over an extended period to provide such appearance benefits. It would be advantageous to provide a topical composition that would provide a more immediate improvement in the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, pores and other forms of undesirable texture on the surface of the skin. Particulate materials, including Ti02. For example, emulsions may contain Ti02 as an opaque agent to provide a white appearance to the emulsion. Commercial sunscreen compositions may employ such particulate materials to impart a sunscreen effect. Several publications have also described the use of Ti02 in skin care compositions. See, for example, the patent of E.U.A. No. 5,223,559 and patent applications Nos. DE 245815, WO 94/09756 and JP 08188723. In addition, R. Emmert has established the desire to use optical means to formulate products that give the consumer an immediate visual improvement (Dr. Ralf Emmert , Quantification of the Soft-Focus Effect, Cosmetics &Toiletries, Vol. 111, July 1996, pp. 57-61). Emmert describes that the skin lines can be mechanically filled with a reflecting substance such as Ti02. However, Emmert teaches that such reflective materials result in an undesirable mask-like appearance, and that therefore a material that diffuses light but that is transparent enough to avoid mask-like appearance should be used. The above topical compositions containing reflective materials such as Ti02, of which the present inventors are aware, do not provide sufficient coverage to reduce the appearance of skin imperfections, or tend to result in unacceptable whitening of the skin. or other unnatural appearance when applied to the skin. It has also been found that materials that primarily diffuse light, rather than reflect it, do not provide adequate coverage of skin imperfections when used in quantities that are aesthetically acceptable to consumers. Most particularly, when used at relatively high concentrations to cover the skin, these materials suffer from unacceptable skin whitening. The present inventors have now found that reflective materials such as Ti02 can be formulated with topical compositions to provide adequate coverage of skin imperfections while maintaining a generally natural appearance, for example, without unacceptable skin whitening. The compositions are especially suited to provide an immediate visual improvement in the appearance of the skin. An object of the present invention is to provide topical compositions suitable for imparting essentially immediate visual improvement in the appearance of the skin. Another objective of the present invention is to provide topical compositions containing a reflective particulate material, for example, T02, which provide desirable coverage of skin imperfections such as pores and uneven skin tone, while maintaining a natural appearance of the skin (for example, without unacceptable whitening of the skin) . Another object of the present invention is to provide topical compositions which are furthermore useful for regulating the appearance and / or condition of the skin, especially for regulating discontinuities in texture or tone in the skin (eg, pores and uneven skin color). . The present invention also relates to methods for improving the appearance and / or condition of the skin by topical application of the present compositions. These and other objects of the invention will become apparent in the light of the following description.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to topical compositions comprising a particulate material and a topical carrier, the particulate material having a refractive index of at least about 2 and a net primary particle size of from about 100 nm to about 300 nm. The composition preferably contains about 0.3% to about 2% of the particulate material. The particulate materials that are preferred are selected from Ti02, ZnO and ZrO, with Ti02 being most preferred. The compositions are useful for imparting an essentially immediate visual improvement in the appearance of the skin, while maintaining a natural appearance of the skin. The compositions of the invention are characterized by the contrast ratio and% transmission or coverage index. The compositions of the invention have a contrast ratio of about 9 to about 30 and a% transmission of about 92% to about 62%. Preferred compositions can be further characterized by the apparent viscosity and the hydration factor.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION All percentages and ratios used herein are by weight of the total composition, and all measurements were made at 25 ° C, unless otherwise indicated. The compositions of the present invention may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of, the essential ingredients, as well as other ingredients and optional components described herein. As used herein, the phrase "consists essentially of" means that the composition or component may include additional ingredients, but only if the additional ingredients do not materially alter the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed compositions or methods. All publications cited herein are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety. The term "topical application", as used herein, means applying or spreading the compositions of the present invention on the surface of the skin.

The term "dermatologically acceptable", as used herein, means that the compositions or components thereof described herein are suitable for use in contact with human skin without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response and the like. The term "safe and effective amount", as used herein, means an amount of a compound, component or composition sufficient to induce significantly a positive benefit, preferably a positive skin appearance or benefit of sensation, including independently benefits described here, but low enough to avoid serious side effects, that is, to provide a reasonable benefit-risk ratio, within the scope of sound medical judgment. The active ingredients and other ingredients useful herein may be categorized or described herein for their cosmetic and / or therapeutic benefit or for their postulated mode of action. However, it should be understood that the active ingredients and other ingredients useful herein may in some cases provide more than one cosmetic and / or therapeutic benefit, or function by means of more than one mode of action. Therefore, the classifications herein are made for reasons of convenience and no attempt is made to limit any ingredients to the application or applications particularly mentioned.

The compositions of the invention are useful for topical application and for providing essentially immediate (ie, acute) visual improvement in the appearance of the skin after application of the composition to the skin. Without attempting to be limited by theory, it is believed that this acute improvement in the appearance of the skin is the result at least in part of a therapeutic coverage or masking of skin imperfections by the particulate material. The compositions provide the visual benefits without imparting an unacceptable appearance of the skin, such as whitening of the skin. Most particularly, the compositions of the present invention are useful for regulating skin conditions, including regulating visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the skin, including but not limited to visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the texture and / or color of the skin. skin, especially discontinuities associated with the aging of the skin. These discontinuities can be induced or caused by internal and / or external factors. Extrinsic factors include ultraviolet radiation (e.g., from sun exposure), environmental pollution, wind, heat, low humidity, aggressive surfactants, abrasives and the like. Intrinsic factors include chronological aging and other biochemical changes from within the skin. The regular condition of the skin includes regular prophylactic and / or therapeutically skin condition. As used herein, prophylactically regulating the condition of the skin includes delaying, minimizing and / or preventing visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the skin. As used herein, therapeutically regulating the condition of the skin includes appeasing, i.e., decreasing, minimizing and / or masking said discontinuities. A condition of skin regulation includes improving the appearance and / or feeling of the skin, for example, by providing a smoother and more uniform appearance and / or feel. As used herein, regulating the condition of the skin includes regulating the signs of aging. "Regulating the signs of skin aging" includes regulating prophylactically and / or therapeutically regulating one more of said signs (similarly, regulating a certain sign of skin aging, for example, lines, wrinkles or pores, includes prophylactically regulating and / or therapeutically regulate that sign). The "signs of skin aging" include, but are not limited to, all manifestations that are visible and tactilely perceptible to the outside, as well as any other macro or micro effects caused by the aging of the skin. These signs can be induced or caused by intrinsic factors or extrinsic factors, for example, chronological aging and / or environmental damage. These signs may originate from processes that include, but are not limited to, the development of texture discontinuities such as wrinkles, including both fine surface wrinkles and deep, deep wrinkles, skin lines, folds, bulges, large pores (eg. example, associated with attached structures such as sweat gland ducts, sebaceous glands or hair follicles), dryness, scaly and / or other forms of lack of uniformity or roughness of the skin, loss of skin elasticity (loss and / or inactivation of functional elastin in the skin), softening (including swelling in the eye area and jowls), loss of skin firmness, loss of skin stiffness, loss of skin recovery from deformation, discoloration (including circles under the eye), spotting, pallor, hyperpigmented regions on the skin such as spots and freckles due to age, keratoses, differentiates abnormal ionization, hyperkeratinization, elastosis, collagen degradation and other histological changes in the stratum corneum, dermis, epidermis, the vascular system of the skin (eg, telangiectasia or spider vessels), and underlying tissues, especially those close to the skin . It should be understood that the present invention is not limited to the regulation of the "signs of skin aging" mentioned above, which originate due to mechanisms associated with the aging of the skin, but it is intended to include the regulation of said signs regardless of the mechanism of origin. As used herein, the phrase "regulate the condition of the skin" is designed to include the regulation of said signs regardless of their mechanism of origin. The present invention is especially useful for therapeutically regulating visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the skin of mammals, including discontinuities in the texture and color of the skin. For example, the apparent diameter of the pores decreases, the apparent height of the tissue immediately close to the openings of the pores approaches that of the inter-annealed skin, the tone / color of the skin becomes more uniform and / or the length, depth and / or other dimensions of lines and / or wrinkles are decreased.

Particulate Material The compositions of the present invention comprise a safe and effective amount of a particulate material having a refractive index of at least about 2, most preferably at least about 2.5, for example, about 2 to about 3. The particulate material is dispersed in a dermatologically acceptable vehicle. The refractive index can be determined by conventional methods. For example, a method for determining the refractive index that is applicable to the present invention is described in JA Dean, Ed., Lange's Handbook of Chemistry, 14th Ed., McGraw Hill, New York, 1992, section 9, Refractometry, incorporated in the present as a reference in its entirety. The particulate material preferably comprises particles of an inorganic material comprising Ti02, ZnO, Zr02 and combinations thereof, most preferably Ti02, ZnO and combinations thereof (the combinations are designed to include particles comprising one or more of these materials as well as mixtures of these particulate materials). The particulate material can be a mixed material, for example, deposited on a core or mixed with other materials such as, but not limited to, silica, silicone, mica, nylon and polyacrylates, as long as the material has the refractive index mentioned above. The particulate material preferably consists of essential form of Ti02, ZnO, Zr02 or a combination thereof, most preferably Ti02, ZnO a combination thereof, more preferably, the particles essentially consist of Ti02. The pigmentary grade particulate material is preferred. Preferred particulate materials are those having a primary particle size of about 100 nm to about 300 nm, most preferably more than 100 nm to about 300 nm, still more preferably about 150 nm to about 300 nm, most preferably about 200 nm to about 250 nm (e.g., about 220 to about 240 nm), in crude form (ie, in the essentially pure form and in powder before its combination with any vehicle). Preferred particulate materials have a primary particle size when dispersed in the composition from about 100 nm to about 1000 nm (preferably more than 100 nm), most preferably around 100 nm to about 400 nm, even most preferably around from 200 nm to about 300 nm. The primary particle size can be determined using the designation of ASTM E20-85"Standard Practice for Particle Size Analysis of Particulate Substances in the Range of 0.2 to 75 Micrometers by Optical Microscopy". ASTM Volume 14.02, 1993, incorporated herein by reference. The particles may have a variety of shapes, including spherical, spheroidal, elliptical, laminar, irregular, needle and bar, as long as the desired refractive index is provided. The particulate material can have a variety of physical forms, including rutile, anatase or a combination thereof. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.1% to about 3% of the particulate material. Especially preferred are topical compositions containing from about 0.3% to about 2%, most preferably from about 0.5% to about 1% of the particulate material. The particulate material may be dispersible in water, dispersible in oil or a combination thereof. The dispersibility in water or oil may be inherent to the particle or may be imparted by coating the particles with a material imparting a hydrophilic or hydrophobic surface to the particles. For example, hydrophilic coatings can comprise an amino acid, aluminum oxide or aluminum silicate. Exemplary hydrophobic coatings may comprise organosilicon compounds or metal soaps, such as aluminum stearate, aluminum laurate and zinc stearate. Inorganic particulate materials, for example, comprising Ti02, ZnO or Zr02 are commercially available from a number of sources. Non-limiting examples of suitable particulate materials are available from Warner Jenkinson (C-9729, a Ti02 in the form of hydrophobic anatase treated with dimethicone); U.S. Cosmetics (TRONOX Ti02 series, for example AT-T-CR837, a T02 treated with amino acid, hydrophilic and in rutile form, AT-T328, a hydrophilic Ti02 treated with amino acid in anatase form and SAT-T CR837, a Ti02 in the form of rutile) and Kobo (TRONOX Ti02 series, for example, ST490, a Ti02 treated with silane in the form of rutile). The particulate materials are available essentially in crude and powder form or predispersed in various types of dispersants, including but not limited to isopropyl istetate, isopropyl palmitate, methyl isostearate, Finsolv TN, cyclomethicone and cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyols . The compositions may contain other inorganic or organic particulate materials, for example, fillers or pigments, as long as they do not significantly reduce the benefits of the invention. For example, the total amount of all the particulate material in the composition (including the particulate material described above having a refractive index of at least about 2 and any other particulate material), in% by weight, can be of about 10 or less, about 5 or less, or about 3 or less. It is preferred that the particles in the compositions of the invention consist essentially of the particulate material described in this section entitled "Particulate Material".

Vehicle The compositions of the present invention comprise a safe and effective amount of a dermatologically acceptable vehicle within which the essential particulate material and other optional materials are incorporated, to enable the particulate material and optional components to be provided to the skin. at an adequate concentration. The vehicle can then act as a diluent, dispersant, solvent or the like for the particulate material, which ensures that it can be applied and evenly distributed over the selected target area at a suitable concentration. The vehicle may contain one or more fillers, diluents, solvents, extenders and the like, solids, semisolids or dermatologically acceptable liquids. The vehicle can be solid, semi-solid or liquid. The vehicles that are preferred are substantially liquid. The vehicle can itself be inert or it can have its own dermatological benefits. Vehicle concentrations may vary with the selected vehicle and the desired concentrations of the essential and optional components. Suitable vehicles include conventional vehicles and other known vehicles that are dermatologically acceptable. The vehicle must also be physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described herein, and must not unduly impair the stability, efficacy or other benefits of use associated with the compositions of the present invention. The preferred components of the compositions of this invention should be capable of being combined such that there is no interaction that could substantially reduce the effectiveness of the composition under normal use situations. The type of vehicle used in the present invention depends on the type of product form desired for the composition. Topical compositions useful in the present invention can be made in a variety of product forms such as those known in the art. These include, but are not limited to, lotions, creams, gels, bars, sprays, ointments, pastes, foams, and cosmetics (for example, solid, semi-solid, or liquid makeup, including foundation, eye makeup, pigmented lip treatments, or not). pigmented, for example, lipsticks, and the like). These product forms can comprise various types of vehicles including, but not limited to, solutions, aerosols, emulsions, gels, solids and liposomes. Preferred carriers contain a dermatologically acceptable hydrophilic diluent. As used herein, "diluent" includes materials in which the particulate material may be dispersed, dissolved or otherwise incorporated. Non-limiting examples of hydrophilic diluents are water, organic hydrophilic diluents such as lower monovalent alcohols (eg, C 1 -C 4) and low molecular weight polyols and glycols, including propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (eg, of molecular weight of 200-600 g / moles), polypropylene glycol (for example, molecular weight of 425-2025 g / mole), glycerol, butylene glycol, 1,4-butanetriol, sorbitol esters, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, isopropanol, sorbitol esters , butanediol, propanolic ether, ethoxylated ethers, propoxylated ethers and combinations thereof. Water is a preferred diluent. The composition preferably comprises about 60% to about 99.99% of the hydrophilic diluent. Solutions according to the present invention typically include a dermatologically acceptable hydrophilic diluent. The solutions useful in the present invention preferably contain about 60% to about 99.99% of the hydrophilic diluent. The aerosols according to the present invention can be formed by adding a propellant to a solution as described above. Exemplary propellants include chloro-fluorinated hydrocarbons of low molecular weight. The additional propellants that are useful herein are described in Sagarin, Cosmetics Science and Technology, 2nd. edition. Vol. 2, pp. 443-465 (1972), incorporated herein by reference. Aerosols are typically applied to the skin as a spray product. Preferred carriers comprise an emulsion consisting of a hydrophilic phase comprising a hydrophilic component, for example, water or another hydrophilic diluent, and a hydrophobic phase comprising a hydrophobic component, for example, a lipid, oil or oily material. As is well known to the person skilled in the art, the hydrophilic phase will be dispersed in the hydrophobic phase, or vice versa, to form dispersed and continuous hydrophilic or hydrophobic phases respectively, depending on the ingredients of the composition. In emulsion technology, the term "dispersed phase" is a term well known to one skilled in the art, and means that the phase exists as small particles or droplets that are suspended in, and surrounded by, a continuous phase. The dispersed phase is also known as the internal or discontinuous phase. The emulsion may be or comprise (for example, in a three-phase or multi-phase emulsion) an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion such as a water-in-silicone emulsion. Oil-in-water emulsions typically comprise from about 1% to about 50% (preferably about 1% to about 30%) of the hydrophobic dispersed phase, and from about 1% to about 98% (preferably about 40% to about 90%) of the continuous hydrophilic phase; Water-in-oil emulsions typically comprise about 1% to about 98% (preferably about 40% to about 90%) of the hydrophilic dispersed phase, and about 1% to about 50% (preferably about 1% to about 30%). %) of the continuous hydrophobic phase. The emulsion may also comprise a gel network, such as that described in G.M. Eccleston, Application of Emulsion Stability Theories to Mobile and Semisolid O / W Emulsions, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 101, November 1996, pp. 73-92, incorporated herein by way of reference. Preferred emulsions are described in more detail below.

The topical compositions of the present invention, including but not limited to lotions and creams, may comprise a dermatologically acceptable emollient. Said compositions preferably contain about 2% to about 50% of the emollient. Emollients tend to lubricate the skin, increase the smoothness and smoothness of the skin, prevent or relieve the dryness of the skin and / or protect the skin. Emollients are typically oily or waxy materials not miscible in water. A wide variety of suitable emollients are known and can be used herein. Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2nd edition, vol. 1, pp. 32-43 (1972), incorporated herein by reference, contains several examples of suitable materials as an emollient. The lotions and creams according to the present invention generally comprise a vehicle system in solution and one or more emollients. The lotions typically comprise about 1% to about 20%, preferably about 5% to about 10%, emollient; about 50% to about 90%, preferably about 60% to about 80% water. A cream typically comprises about 5% to about 50%, preferably about 10% to about 20% emollient; and from about 45% to about 85%, preferably about 50% to about 75%, of water.

The ointments of the present invention may comprise a simple vehicle base of animal or vegetable oils or semi-solid (oleaginous) hydrocarbons; bases for absorption ointments that absorb water to form emulsions; or water soluble carriers, for example, a vehicle in water soluble solution. The ointments may further comprise a thickening agent, such as that described in Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2nd edition, vol. 1, pp. 72-73 (1972), incorporated herein by way of reference, and / or an emollient. For example, an ointment may comprise about 2% to about 10% of an emollient, and about 0.1% to about 2% of a thickening agent. The compositions of this invention useful for personal cleansing ("cleansers") are formulated with a suitable vehicle, for example, as described above, and preferably contain one or more dermatologically acceptable surfactants in an amount that is safe and effective for personal cleanliness. Preferred compositions contain about 1% to about 90%, most preferably about 5% to about 10%, of a dermatologically acceptable surfactant. The surfactant is suitably selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and ampholytic surfactants, as well as mixtures of these surfactants. Such surfactants are well known to those skilled in the art of detergency. Non-limiting examples of possible surfactants include isoceteth-20, sodium methylcocoyltaurate, sodium methyloleoyltaurate, sodium lauryl sulfate and betaines such as those described herein. See the patent of E.U.A. No. 4,800,197 to Kowcz et al, issued January 24, 1989, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety, for exemplary surface active agents useful herein. Examples of a wide variety of additional surfactants useful herein are described in McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety. Personal cleansing compositions may optionally contain, at their levels established in the art, other materials that are conventionally used in cleaning compositions. The physical form of cleaning compositions is not critical. The compositions can be, for example, formulated as bath rods, liquids, shampoos, bath gels, hair conditioners, hair tonics, pastes or foams. Bath rods are more preferred, since this is the most commonly used form of personal cleansing agent for washing the skin. Preferred rinse-off personal cleansing compositions, such as shampoos, include a suitable delivery system for depositing sufficient levels of active ingredients on the skin and scalp. A preferred delivery system includes the use of insoluble complexes. For a more complete description of said delivery systems, see the patent of E.U.A. 4,835,148, Barford et al, issued May 30, 1989 and incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. As used herein, the term "base" refers to a cosmetic for liquid, semi-liquid, semi-solid or solid skin that includes, but is not limited to, lotions, creams, gels, pastes, platens and the like. Typically, the base is used over a large area of the skin, such as over the face, to provide a particular appearance. The bases are typically used to provide an adherent base for colored cosmetics such as blush, powder and the like, and tend to hide skin imperfections and impart a smooth and uniform appearance to the skin. The bases of the present invention include a dermatologically acceptable vehicle for the essential particulate material and may include conventional ingredients such as oils, dyes, pigments, emollients, fragrances, waxes, stabilizers and the like. Exemplary vehicles and other ingredients that are suitable for use herein are described, for example, in copending patent application Serial No. 08 / 430,961, filed on April 28, 1995 in the name of Marcia L. Canter, Brain. D. Barford and Brian D. Hofrichter, incorporated herein by reference. The compositions of the present invention are preferably formulated to have a pH of 10.5 or less. The pH values of these compositions preferably range from about 2 to about 10.5, most preferably about 3 to about 8, still more preferably about 5 to about 8.

Preferred compositions of this invention Preferred topical compositions of the present invention comprise an emulsion. The emulsions of the present invention may contain one or more of the following: a) Hydrophobic component The emulsions according to the present invention contain a hydrophobic phase comprising a lipid, oil, oily component or other hydrophobic component. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 1% to about 50%, preferably from about 1% to about 30% and most preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the composition of a hydrophobic component. The hydrophobic component can be derived from animals, plants or oil, and can be natural or synthetic (ie, man-made). Preferred hydrophobic components are substantially insoluble in water, most preferably essentially insoluble in water. Preferred hydrophobic components are those which have a melting point of about 25 ° C or less under about one atmosphere of pressure, and are suitable for conditioning the skin or hair.

Non-limiting examples of suitable hydrophobic components include those selected from the group consisting of: (1) Mineral oil, also known as petrolatum liquid, which is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum. See The Merck Index, tenth edition, index 7048, p. 1033 (1983) and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, fifth edition, vol. 1, p. 415-417 (1993), which are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety. (2) Petrolatum, which is also known as petroleum jelly, is a colloidal system of non-straight chain solid hydrocarbons and high boiling liquid hydrocarbons, in which most of the liquid hydrocarbons are kept within the micelles. See The Merck Index, tenth edition, section 7047, p. 1033 (1983); Schindler, Drug. Cosmet. Ind., 89. 36-37, 76, 78-80, 82 (1961) and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, fifth edition, vol. 1, p.537 (1993), which are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety. (3) Straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having from about 7 to about 40 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of these hydrocarbon materials include dodecane, isododecane, squalane, cholesterol, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, docosane (i.e., a C22 hydrocarbon), hexadecane, isohexadecane (a commercially available hydrocarbon sold as Permetil® 101A by Presperse, South Plainfield, NJ). Also useful are C7-C40 isoparaffins which are branched C7-C40 hydrocarbons. (4) C 1 -C 30 alcohol esters of C 1 -C 30 carboxylic acids and C 2 -C 30 dicarboxylic acids, including straight and branched chain materials, as well as aromatic derivatives (such as those used herein with reference to the component hydrophobic, mono- and polycarboxylic acids including straight chain, branched chain and aryl carboxylic acids). Non-limiting examples include diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, methyl palmitate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isodecyl neopentanoate, di-2-ethylhexyl maleate, cetyl palmitate, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, methyl stearate, cetyl stearate, behenyl behenate, dioctyl maleate, dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, cetyl octanoate, diisopropyl dilinoleate. (5) Mono-, di-v tri-carboxylic acids of C 1 -C 30 carboxylic acids. for example, caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / capric triglyceride of PEG-6, caprylic / capric triglyceride of PEG-8. (6) Alauylene glycol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids. for example, ethylene glycol mono- and diesters and propylene glycol mono- and diesters of C 1 -C 30 carboxylic acids, for example, ethylene glycol distearate. (7) Propoxylated and ethoxylated derivatives of the above materials. (8) Mono- and C1-C30 polyesters of sugars and related materials. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol portion and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the acid and constituent sugar, these esters may be in liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples of liquid esters include: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated), fatty acid maleate tetraesters of mixed soybean oil, galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, arabinose tetraesters of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, sorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate, octaoleate of sucrose and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters include: sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid ester portions are palmitoleate and arachididate in a 1: 2 molar ratio; the octaester of raffinose in which the carboxylic acid ester portions are linoleate and behenate in a 1: 3 molar ratio; the maltose heptaester wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are sunflower seed oil and lignocerate fatty acids in a 3: 4 molar ratio; the octaester of sucrose in which the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are oleate and behenate in a 2: 6 molar ratio; and the sucrose octaester in which the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a 1: 3: 4 molar ratio. A preferred solid material is sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid moieties are C18 and behenic mono- and / or di-unsaturated, in a molar ratio of unsaturated: behenic from 1: 7 to 3: 5. A solid sugar polyester which is particularly preferred is the sucrose octaester in which there are approximately 7 portions of behenic fatty acid and about a portion of oleic acid in the molecule. Other materials include cottonseed oil or fatty acid esters of sucrose soybean oil. Ester materials are described in more detail in the US patent. No. 2,831, 854, U.S. Patent No. No. 4,005,196 to Jandacek, issued on January 25, 1997; patent of E.U.A. No. 4,005,195 to Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977, patent of E.U.A. No. 5,306,516 to Letton et al, issued April 26, 1994; patent of E.U.A. No. 5,306,515, to Letton et al, issued April 26, 1994; patent of E.U.A. No. 5,305,514 to Letton et al, issued April 26, 1994; patent of E.U.A. No. 4,797,300 to Jandacek et al, issued January 10, 1989; patent of E.U.A. No. 3,963,699 to Rizzi et al, issued June 15, 1976; patent of E.U.A. No. 4,518,772 to Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985 and patent of E.U.A. No. 4,517,360 to Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985, all of which are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety. (9) Orqanopolysiloxane oils. The organopolysiloxane oil can be volatile, non-volatile or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones. The term "non-volatile", as used in this context, refers to silicones that are liquids under ambient conditions and have an evaporation point (under a pressure atmosphere) of or greater than about 100 ° C. The term "volatile", as used in this context, refers to all other silicone oils. Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety of silicones covering a wide range of volatilities and viscosities. Non-volatile polysiloxanes are preferred. Non-limiting examples of suitable silicones are described in the U.S.A. No. 5,069,897 to Orr, issued December 3, 1991, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety. Examples of suitable organopolysiloxane oils include polyalkylsiloxanes, cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Polyalkylsiloxanes useful in the composition herein include polyalkylsiloxanes with viscosities from about 0.5 to about 1,000,000 centistokes at 25 ° C. Said polyalkylsiloxanes can be represented by the general chemical formula R3SiO [R2SiO] xSiR3 wherein R is an alkyl group having from one to about 30 carbon atoms (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, most preferably methyl, mixed alkyl groups can also be used the same molecule), and x is an integer from 0 to about 10,000, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight which can vary up to about 10,000,000. Commercially available polyalkylsiloxanes include the polydimethylsiloxanes which are also known as dimethicones, examples of which include the Vicasil® series sold by the General Electric Company and the Dow Corning® 200 series sold by Dow Corning Corporation. Specific examples of suitable polydimethylsiloxanes include Dow Corning® 200 fluid having the viscosity of 0.65 centistokes and a boiling point of 100 ° C, Dow Corning® 225 fluid having a viscosity of 10 centistokes and a boiling point of more than 200 °. C and Dow Corning® 200 fluids having viscosities of 50, 350 and 12,500 centistokes, respectively, and boiling points of more than 200 ° C. Suitable dimethyconds include those represented by the chemical formula (CH3) 3SiO [(CH3) 2SiO] x [CH3RSiO] and Si (CH3) 3 wherein R is a straight or branched chain alkyl having from two to about 30 carbon atoms. carbon, and (x) and (y) are each integer from one to more selected to achieve the desired molecular weight which may vary up to about 10,000,000. Examples of these alkyl-substituted dimethicones include cetyl dimethicone and lauryl dimethicone. Suitable cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes for use in the composition include those represented by the chemical formula [SiR2-0] n wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, most preferably methyl) and n is an integer from about 3 to about 8, most preferably n is an integer from about 3 to about 7 and more preferably n is an integer from about 4 to about 6. When R is methyl, these materials are typically known as cyclomethicones. Commercially available cyclomethicones include Dow Corning® 244 fluid having a viscosity of 2.5 centistokes and a boiling point of 172 ° C, which mainly contains the cyclomethicone tetramer (ie n = 4), Dow Corning® 344 fluid having a viscosity of 2.5 centistokes and a boiling point of 178 ° C, containing mainly the pentamer of cyclomethicone (ie n = 5), Dow Corning® 245 fluid having a viscosity of 4.2 centistokes and a boiling point of 205 ° C , which mainly contains a mixture of the tetramer and pentamer of cyclomethicone (ie n = 4 and 5) and Dow Corning® 345 fluid having a viscosity of 4.5 centistokes and a boiling point of 217 ° C, which mainly contains a mixture of the tetramer, pentamer and hexamer of cyclomethicone (ie, n = 4, 5 and 6). Also useful are materials such as trimethylsiloxysilicate, which is a polymeric material corresponding to the general chemical formula (CH2) 3Si01 / 2] x [Si02ly, wherein x is an integer from about 1 to about 500 and (y) is a whole from about 1 to about 500. A commercially available trimethylsiloxysilicate is sold as a mixture with dimethicone as Dow Corning® 593 fluid. The dimethiconols are also suitable for use in the composition. Their compounds can be represented by the chemical formulas R3SiO [R2SiO] xSiR2OH and HOR2SiO [R2SiO] xSiR2? H, where R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, most preferably methyl) and x is an integer from 0 to about 500 , chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight. Commercially available dimethiconols are typically sold as mixtures with dimethicone or cyclomethicone (e.g., Dow Corning® 1401, 1402 and 1403 fluids). The polyalkylaryl siloxanes are also suitable for use in the composition. Polymethylphenylsiloxanes having viscosities of about 15 to about 65 centistokes at 25 ° C are especially useful. It is preferred to use the organopolysiloxanes selected from the group consisting of polyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl-substituted dimethicones, cyclomethicones, trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethylconols, polyalkylarylsiloxanes and mixtures thereof. It is more preferred to use polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones here. Among the polyalkylsiloxanes that are preferred are the dimethicones. (10) Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils. Examples of vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include sunflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, shad oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, rice bran oil, pine oil, sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, hydrogenated sunflower seed oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, cottonseed oil hydrogenated oil, hydrogenated shad oil, hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated peanut oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated flaxseed oil, hydrogenated rice bran oil, hydrogenated sesame oil , hydrogenated sunflower seed oil and mixtures thereof. (11) Animal fats and oils, for example, lanolin and derivatives thereof, cod liver oil. (12) Alkyl C4-C20 ethers of polypropylene glycols, C1-C20 carboxylic acid esters of polypropylene glycols and dialkyl C8-C30 diethers are also useful. Non-limiting examples of these materials include butyl ether of PPG-14, stearyl ether of PPG-15, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether and mixtures thereof. b) Hydrophilic component The emulsions of the present invention also comprise a hydrophilic component, for example, water or another hydrophilic diluent. The hydrophilic phase can then comprise water, or a combination of water and one or more ingredients soluble or dispersible in water. Hydrophilic components comprising water are preferred. c) Other components The emulsions and other topical compositions of the present invention may comprise a variety of other ingredients such as those described herein. As will be understood by the person skilled in the art, a certain component will be distributed mainly in a hydrophilic phase or a hydrophobic phase, depending on the hydrophilic character of the component in the composition. The emulsions of the present invention preferably include one or more compounds selected from emulsifiers, surfactants, structuring agents and thickeners. Compositions containing these ingredients tend to have the preferred apparent viscosities described herein. (1) Emulsifiers / surfactants The emulsion may contain an emulsifier / surfactant, generally to help disperse and suspend the discontinuous phase in the continuous phase. A wide variety of said agents can be employed. Conventional or conventional emulsifiers / surfactants can be used in the composition, so long as the selected agent is chemically and physically compatible with the essential components of the composition, and provides the desired dispersion characteristics. Suitable agents include emulsifiers / surfactants that do not contain silicone, emulsifiers / silicone surfactants and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises an emulsifier or hydrophilic surfactant. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.05% to about 5%, most preferably from about 0.05% to about 1% of at least one hydrophilic surfactant. Without intending to be limited by theory, it is believed that the hydrophilic surfactant helps to disperse hydrophobic materials, eg, hydrophobic structuring agents, in the hydrophilic phase. The surfactant, as a minimum, must be sufficiently hydrophilic to be dispersed in the hydrophilic phase. Preferred surfactants are those having an HLB of at least about 8. The exact surfactant chosen will depend on the pH of the composition and the other components present. Preferred hydrophilic surfactants are selected from nonionic surfactants. Among the nonionic surfactants which are useful herein are those which can be broadly defined as condensation products of long chain alcohols, for example, alcohols of C8-30, with polymers of sugar or starch, ie, glycosides. These compounds can be represented by the formula (S) n-0-R wherein S is a sugar portion such as glucose, fructose, mannose and galactose; n is an integer from about 1 to about 1000, and R is a C8-30 alkyl group. Examples of long chain alcohols from which the alkyl group can be derived include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and the like. Preferred examples of these surfactants include those in which S is a glucose portion, R is an alkyl group of C8-20 and n is an integer from about 1 to about 9. Commercially available examples of these surfactants include decyl polyglucoside (available as APG 325 CS from Henkel) and lauryl polyglucoside (available as APG 600 CS and 625 CS from Henkel) Other useful nonionic surfactants include the condensation products of alkylene oxides with fatty acids (ie, alkylene oxide esters of fatty acids.) These materials have the general formula RCO (X) nOH, wherein R is an alkyl group of C10-30, X is -OCH2CH2- (ie, derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or -OCH2CHCH3- (ie , propylene glycol derivative or oxide) and n is an integer from about 6 to about 200. Other nonionic surfactants are the condensation products of alkylene oxides with two moles of fatty acids (ie, alkylene oxide diesters of fatty acids). These materials have the general formula RCO (X) nOOCR, wherein R is an alkyl group of C10-30, X is -OCH CH2- (ie, derivative of ethylene glycol or oxide) or -OCH2CHCH3- (ie, derivative of propylene glycol or oxide) and n is an integer from about 6 to about 100. Other nonionic surfactants are the condensation products of alkylene oxides with fatty alcohols (ie, alkylene oxide ethers of fatty alcohols). These materials have the general formula R (X) nOR ', wherein R is an alkyl group of C10-30, X is -OCH2CH2- (ie, derivative of ethylene glycol or oxide) or -OCH2CHCH3- (ie, derivative of propylene glycol or oxide) and n is an integer from about 6 to about 100 and R 'is H or a C10-30 alkyl group. Other nonionic surfactants are the condensation products of alkylene oxides with both fatty acids and fatty alcohols [i.e., wherein the polyalkylene oxide moiety is esterified at one end with a fatty acid and etherified (i.e. by means of an ether link) at the other end with a fatty alcohol]. These materials have the general formula RCO (X) nOR ', wherein R and R' are C10-30 alkyl groups. X is -OCH2CH2 (ie, derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or -OCH2CHCH3- (propylene glycol derivative or oxide) and n is an integer from about 6 to about 100. Non-limiting examples of these nonionic surfactants derived from alkylene oxide include ceteth-6, ceteth-10, ceteth-12, ceteareth-6, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-12, steareth-6, steareth-10, steareth-12, PEG-6 stearate. PEG-10 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-12 stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-80 glycerylseboate, PEG-10 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glycerylcocoate, PEG-80 glycerylcocoate, PEG-200 glycerylseboate, PEG-8 dilaurate, PEG-10 distearate and mixtures thereof.

Other useful nonionic surfactants include the polyhydroxy fatty acid amide surfactants corresponding to the structural formula: Or R 1 9 II I R¿- C-N- wherein: R 1 is H, C 1 -C 4 alkyl, 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl, preferably C 1 -C 4 alkyl, most preferably methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl; R2 is C5-C3 alkyl or alkenyl, preferably C7-C19 alkyl or alkenyl, most preferably Cg-C alkyl or alkenyl? , more preferably C-n-C-15 alkenyl or alkenyl; and Z is a polyhydroxyhydrocarbyl moiety having a linear hydrocarbyl chain with at least 3 hydroxyls directly connected to the chain, or an alkoxylated derivative (preferably ethoxylated or propoxylated) thereof. Z is preferably a sugar portion selected from the group consisting of glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, galactose, mannose, xylose and mixtures thereof. An especially preferred surfactant corresponding to the above structure is coconut alkyl-N-methyl glucosamide (ie, wherein the R2CO- portion is derived from coconut oil fatty acids). Methods for making compositions containing polyhydroxy fatty acid amides are described, for example, in the description of British Patent 809,060 published February 18, 1959, by Thomas Hedley & Co., Ltd; patent of E.U.A. No. 2,965,576 to E.R. Wilson, issued December 20, 1960; patent of E.U.A. No. 2,703,798 to A.M. Schwartz, issued March 8, 1955 and patent of E.U.A. No. 1, 985,424 to Piggott, issued on December 25, 1934; which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Among the preferred nonionic surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of steareth-21, ceteareth-20 ceteareth-12, sucrose cocoate, steareth-100, PEG-100 stearate and mixtures thereof. Other suitable nonionic surfactants for use herein include sugar esters and polyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, fatty acid esters of C C 3 o of C 1 -C 30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated derivatives of C 1 -C 15 fatty acid esters C30 of CrC30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated ethers of C 1 -C 30 fatty alcohols, polyglyceryl esters of C 1 -C 30 fatty acids, C C 3o esters of polyols, C 1 -C 30 ethers of polyols, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene fatty ether phosphates, amides of fatty acid, acyl lactylates and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of these non-silicone-containing emulsifiers include: polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaure (Polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5 stearic soy, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, Ceteth-10, Polysorbate 80 , cetylphosphate, potassium cetylphosphate, diethanolamine cetylphosphate, Polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate 85), sorbitan monolaurate, sodium stearate of polyoxyethylene-4 lauryl ether, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, laurate hexyl, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, PEG 100 stearate and mixtures thereof. Another emulsifier useful herein are mixtures of fatty acid esters based on a mixture of sorbitan fatty acid ester or sorbitol and fatty acid ester of sucrose, the fatty acid in each case being preferably C8-C24, very preferably of C10-C20. The preferred fatty acid ester emulsifier is a mixture of C10-C20 fatty acid ester of sorbitan or sorbitol with C10-C16 sucrose fatty acid ester, especially sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate. This is commercially available from ICI under the tradename Arlatone 2121. The hydrophilic surfactants useful herein may alternatively or additionally include any variety of cationic, anionic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants, as is known in the art. . See, for example, McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers, American edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; patent of E.U.A. No. 5,011, 681 of Ciotti et.al., issued April 30, 1991; patent of E.U.A. No. 4,421, 769 of Dixon et.al., issued December 20, 1983; and patent of E.U.A. No. 3,755,560 of Dickert et.al., issued August 28, 1973; These four references are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Exemplary cationic surfactants useful herein include those described in the U.S.A. No. 5,151, 209 of McCall et.al., issued September 29, 1992; the patent of E.U.A. No. 5,151, 210 of Steuri et.al., issued September 29, 1992; the patent of E.U.A. No. 5,120,532, of Wells et.al., issued June 9, 1992; the patent of E.U.A. No. 4,387,090, issued by Bolich on June 7, 1983; the patent of E.U.A. 3,155,591, Hilfer, issued November 3, 1964; the patent of E.U.A. No. 3,929,678 to Laughlin et.al., issued December 30, 1975; the patent of E.U.A. No. 3,959,461 to Bailey et.al., issued May 25, 1976, McCutcheon's. Detergents & Emulsifiers (US edition 1979) M.C. Publishing Co .; and Schwartz, et.al., Surface Active Agents, Their Chemistrv and Tenchnology, New York: Interscience Publishers, 1949; all these documents that are incorporated in the present invention by reference in their entirety. Cationic surfactants useful herein include cationic ammonium salts, such as quaternary ammonium salts, and aminoamides. A wide variety of anionic surfactants are also useful herein. See, for example, the patent of E.U.A. No. 3,929,678, Laughlin et.al., issued December 30, 1975, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include the allyl isethionates (for example, C12-C30), alkyl sulfates and alkylether sulfates and salts thereof, alkyl phosphonates and alkyletherphosphonates and salts thereof, alkylmethyltaurates (for example, C12-C30), and soaps (for example, alkali metal salts, e.g., sodium or potassium salts) of fatty acids.

Amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants are also useful herein. Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are those described in detail as derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical can be straight or branched chain and in wherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms (preferably of Cß-C-is) and one contains an anionic water-soluble group, for example, carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate. Examples are alkyliminoacetate and iminodialkanoates and aminoalkanoates, imidazolinium and ammonium derivatives. Other suitable amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of betaines, sultaines, hydroxysultaines, alkyl sarcosinates (for example C 2 -C 3), and alkanoyl sarcosinates. Preferred emulsions of the present invention include an emulsifier or surfactant that contains silicone. A wide variety of silicone emulsifiers are useful herein. These silicone emulsifiers are almost always organopolysiloxane organopolysiloxanes, also known to those skilled in the art as silicone surfactants. Useful silicone emulsifiers include dimethicone copolyes. These materials are polydimethylsiloxanes which have been modified to include polyether side chains, such as polyethylene oxide chains, polypropylene oxide chains, mixtures of these chains and polyether chains containing portions derived from ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. Other examples include alkyl-modified dimethicone copolyols, ie, compounds containing pendant C2-C3o side chains. Even other useful dimethicone copolyols include materials having various cationic, anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic pendant moieties. The emulsifiers of dimethicone copolyols useful herein can be described by the following general structure: wherein R is straight, branched or cyclic alkyl of CrC3o and R2 is selected from the group consisting of - (CH2) n ~ 0- (CH2CHR30) m ~ H, - (CH2) n-0 - (CH2CHRO) m- (CH2CHR40) or -H, wherein n is an integer from 3 to about 10; R3 and R4 are selected from the group consisting of H and straight or branched chain alkyl of C1-C6, such that R3 and R4 are not the same simultaneously; and m, o, x, yy are selected such that the molecule has an overall molecular weight of about 200 to about 10,000,000, with m, o, x, yy being independently selected from zero or greater integers, such that that myo are not zero simultaneously and z that is selected independently of integers of 1 or greater. It is recognized that positional isomers of these copolyols can be achieved. The chemical representations illustrated above for the portions of R2 containing the groups R3 and R4 are not intended to be limiting, but are illustrated as such for convenience. Also useful herein are, although they are not strictly classified as dimethicone copolyols, the silicone surfactants as illustrated in the structures of the preceding paragraph, wherein R2 is "(CH2) n ~ 0 ~ R5, wherein R5 is a cationic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic portion. Non-limiting examples of dimethicone copolyols and other silicone surfactants useful as emulsifiers herein include copolymers of polydimethylsiloxane-polyether with pendant polyethylene oxide side chains, polydimethylsiloxane-polyether copolymers with pendant polypropylene oxide side chains, copolymers of polydimethylsiloxane-polyether with pendant mixed propylene oxide and polyethylene oxide side chains, polydimethylsiloxane-polyether copolymers with pendant mixed poly (ethylene) (propylene) side chains, polydimethylsiloxane-polyether copolymers with pendant organobetaine side chains , polydimethylsiloxane-polyether copolymers with pendant carboxylate side chains, polydimethylsiloxane-polyether copolymers with pendant quaternary ammonium side chains; and in addition other modifications of the foregoing copolymers containing pendent straight, branched or cyclic C2-C30 alkyl portions. Examples of commercially available dimethicone copolyols, useful herein, sold by Dow Corning Corporation are Dow Corning® 190,193, Q2-5220, 2501 Wax, 2-5324 Fluid, and 3225C (the latter material being sold as a mixture with cyclomethicone). Copolyol of cetyldimethicone is commercially available as a mixture with polyglyceryl isostearate-4 (y) hexyl laurate and sold under the trademark ABIL® WE-09 (available from Goldschmidt). Copolyol of cetyldimethicone is also commercially available as a mixture with hexyl laurate (and) polyglyceryl-3 (y) cetyldimethicone oleate and is sold under the tradename ABIL® WS-08 (also available from Goldschmidt). Other non-limiting examples of dimethicone copolyols also include lauryl dimethicone copolyol, dimethicone copolyol acetate, dimethicone copolyol adipate, dimethicone copolyol amine, dimethicone copolyol behenate, dimethicone copolyol butyl ether, dimethicone copolyol hydroxystearate, isostearate of dimethicone copolyol, dimeticon copolyol laurate, dimethicone copolyol methyl ether, dimethicone copolyol phosphate, and dimethicone copolyol stearate. See International Cosmetic Inqredient Dictionary, fifth edition, 1993, which is incorporated by reference herein in its entirety.

The dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers useful herein are described, for example, in the U.S.A. No. 4,960,764 to Figueroa, Jr. et.al., issued October 2, 1990; European Patent No. EP 330,369, of SaNogueira, published on August 30, 1989; G. H. Dahms, et.al. "New Formulation Possibilities Offered by Silicone Copoiyols," Cosmetics & Toiletries. vol. 110, pp. 91-100, March 1995; M. E. Carlotti et al., "Optimization of W / O-S Emulsions and Study of the Quantitative Relatonships Between Ester Structure and Emulsion Properties," J. Dispersion Science And Technology, 13 (3), 315-336 (1992); P. Hameyer, "Comparative Technological Investigations of Organic and Organosilicone Emulsifiers in Cosmetic Water-in-Oil Emulsion Preparations."? APPI 28 (4), pp. 88-128 (1991); J. Smid-Korbar et al., "Efficiency and usability of silicone surfactants in emulsions." Provisional Communication, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 12, 135-139 (1990); and DG Krzysik et.al., "A New Silicone Emulsifier for Water-in-Oil Systems, "Drug and Cosmetic Industry, vol 146 (4) pp. 28-81 (April 1990), incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. (2) Structuring Agent The compositions herein, and especially the emulsions herein, may contain a structuring agent. Structurants are particularly preferred in the oil-in-water emulsions of the present invention. Without being limited to theory, it is believed that the structuring agent helps to provide rheological characteristics to the composition that contribute to the stability of the composition. For example, the structuring agent tends to assist in the formation of liquid crystal gel network structures. The structuring agent can also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. Preferred compositions of this invention comprise from about 1% to about 20%, most preferably from about 1% to about 10%, most preferably still from about 2% to about 9% of one or more structuring agents. The preferred structuring agents are those that have a HLB from about 1 to about 8 and having a melting point of at least about 45 ° C. Suitable structuring agents are those selected from the group consisting of saturated C30 to C30 fatty alcohols, saturated C-iß to C30 fatty alcohols containing from about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, diols of C3o saturates, saturated C-iß to C3o monoglycerol ethers, saturated C3 to C3o hydroxy fatty acids, hydroxylated and non-hydroxylated saturated fatty acids from C to C30, saturated ethoxylated fatty acids from Cu to C3o, amines and alcohols containing from about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide diols, saturated glyceryl monoethers of Cu to C3o having a monoglyceride content of at least 40%, saturated polyglycerol ethers of Cu to C3o having from about 1 to about 3 alkyl groups and from about 2 to about 3 units of saturated glycerol, glyceryl monoethers of Cu to C3O, mono / diesters of sorbitan of C14 to C3o, mono / diesters of saturated ethoxylated sorbitan from Cu to C30 with from about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, saturated methylglucoside esters of Cu to C30, saturated sucrose mono / diesters of Cu to C3o, saturated ethoxylated methyl glucoside esters of Cu to C3O with about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, saturated C14 to C30 polyglucosides having an average of between 1 to 2 glucose units and mixtures thereof, having a melting point of at least about 45 ° C. Preferred structuring agents of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmitic acid, polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethylene oxide units, polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. The most preferred structuring agents of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an average of about 2 ethylene oxide units (steareth-2 ), the polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 2 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferred structuring agents are selected from the group consisting of stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, steareth-2, and mixtures thereof. (3) Thickening agent (including gelling agents and thickeners) The compositions of the present invention may also include a thickening agent, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, most preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, and very preferably still about 0.25% at about 2%, of a thickening agent. The non-limiting classes of thickening agents include those selected from the group consisting of: (i) Carboxylic acid polymers These polymers are crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and is derived from a polyhydric alcohol. Preferred carboxylic acid polymers are of two general types. The first type of polymer is an entangled homopolymer of an acrylic acid monomer or derivative thereof (eg, wherein the acrylic acid has substituents at the two carbon and three carbon positions independently selected from the group consisting of C1 alkyl. -4, -CN, -COOH, and mixtures thereof). The second type of polymer is an entangled copolymer having a first monomer selected from the group consisting of an acrylic acid monomer or derivative thereof (as described in the previous sentence), an acrylate ester monomer of short chain alcohol (ie, a C ^) or derivative thereof (eg, wherein the acrylic acid portion of the ester has substituents at the two and three carbon positions independently selected from the group consisting of C1-4 -CN, -COOH, and mixtures thereof), and mixtures thereof; and a second monomer which is a long-chain (ie C8-C40) alcohol acrylate ester monomer or derivative thereof (eg, wherein the acrylic acid portion of the ester has substituents at the two carbon positions. and three independently selected from the group consisting of C 1-4 alkyl, -CN, -COOH, and mixtures thereof). The combinations of these two types of polymers are also useful herein. In the first type of entangled homopolymers, the monomers are preferably selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, ethacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof, with acrylic acid being most preferred. In the second type of entangled copolymers, the acrylic acid monomer or derivative thereof is preferably selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, ethacrylic acid and mixtures thereof, with acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and mixtures being of them the most preferred. The short chain alcohol acrylate ester monomer or derivative thereof is preferably selected from the group consisting of C-alcohol acrylate esters, C1-4 alcohol methacrylate esters, alcohol ethacrylate esters of C- and mixtures thereof, with d-4 alcohol acrylate esters, C? -4 alcohol methacrylate esters and mixtures thereof being most preferred. The long chain alcohol acrylate ester monomer is selected from the C 1 -C 40 alkyl acrylate esters, the C 1 or 3 alkyl acrylate esters being preferred. The entanglement agent in both types of polymers is a polyalkenyl polyether of a polyhydric alcohol containing more than one group of alkenyl ether per molecule, wherein the polyhydric mother alcohol contains at least 3 carbon atoms and at least three hydroxyl groups . Preferred entanglements are those selected from the group consisting of allylic ethers of sucrose and allylic ethers of pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof. These polymers useful in the present invention are described in greater detail in the U.S.A. No. 5,087,445, Haffey et. al., issued on February 11, 1992; the patent of E.U.A. No. 4,509,949 to Huang et. al., issued on April 5, 1985; the patent of E.U.A. No. 2,798,053, Brown, issued July 2, 1957; which are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety. See also, CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 4th edition 1991, p. 12 and 80; which are also incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Examples of commercially available homopolymers of the first type useful herein include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allylic ethers of sucrose or pentaerythritol. Carbomers are available as the Carbopol® 900 series from B.F. Goodrich (for example, Carbopol® 954). Examples of commercially available copolymers of the second type useful herein include copolymers of C10-30 alkyl acrylates with one or more acrylic acid monomers, methacrylic acid or one of their short chain esters (ie, C1-4), wherein the entanglement agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known as cross-linked alkyl acrylate polymers of C-? O-30 / acrylates and are commercially available as Carbopol® 1342, Carbopol® 1382Pemulen TR-1, and Pemulen TR-2, from B.F. Goodrich. In other words, examples of carboxylic acid polymer thickeners useful herein are those selected from the group consisting of carbomers, cross-linked alkyl acrylate polymers of C-? Or -30 / acrylates, and mixtures thereof . ii) Interlaced polyacrylate polymers The crosslinked polyacrylate polymers useful as thickeners or gelling agents include cationic and nonionic polymers, cationics being generally preferred. Examples of useful interlaced nonionic polyacrylate polymers and crosslinked cationic polyacrylate polymers are those described in the U.S.A. 5,100,660, Hawe et. al., issued on March 31, 1992; the patent of E.U.A. 4,849,484, by Heard, issued July 18, 1989; the patent of E.U.A. 4,835,206, Farrar et al. al., issued May 30, 1989; the patent of E.U.A. 4,628,078 to Glober et. al., issued on December 9, 1986; the patent of E.U.A. 4,599,379, by Flesher et. al., issued July 8, 1986; and EP 228,868, Farrar et al. al., published July 15, 1987; all incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. The crosslinked polyacrylate polymers are high molecular weight materials which can be characterized by the general formula: (A)? (B) m (C) n and comprises the monomer units (A) ?, (B) m. and (C) n, wherein (A) is a dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate monomer or its acid addition salt or quaternary ammonium salt, (B) is a dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate monomer or its acid addition salt or ammonium salt quaternary, (C) is a monomer that can be polymerized with (A) or (B), for example a monomer having a carbon-carbon double bond or other functional group that can be polymerized, I is an integer of 0 or greater, m is an integer of 0 or greater, n is an integer of 0 or greater, but where I or m, or both, must be 1 or greater. The monomer (C) can be selected from any of the monomers commonly used. Non-limiting examples of these monomers include ethylene, propylene, butylene, isobutylene, eicosene, maleic anhydride, acrylamide, methacrylamide, maleic acid, acrolein, cyclohexene, ethyl vinyl ether and methylvinyl ether. The alkyl portions of the monomers (A) and (B) are short chain length alkyls, such as C-i-Cs, preferably C1-C5, most preferably C1-C3, and most preferably still C1-C2. When quaternized, the polymers are preferably quatemized with short chain alkyls, i.e., CI-CB, preferably C1-C5, most preferably CrC3, and most preferably still C1-C2. Acid addition salts refer to polymers having protonated amino groups. The acid addition salts can be prepared through the use of halogens (for example chloride), acetic, phosphoric, nitric, citric and other acids. These polymers (A)? (B) m (C) n also comprise an entanglement agent, which is almost always a material containing two or more unsaturated functional groups. The entanglement agent is reacted with the monomer units of the polymer and is incorporated into the polymer, whereby it forms covalent bonds or bonds between two or more individual polymer chains or between two or more sections of the same polymer chain. Non-limiting examples of suitable entanglement agents include those selected from the group consisting of methylenebisacrylamides, diallyldiallylalkylammonium halides, polyalkenyl polyethers of polyhydric alcohols, allyl acrylates, vinyloxyalkylacrylates, and polyfunctional vinylidenes. Specific examples of entanglement agents useful herein include those selected from the group consisting of methylenebisacrylamide, ethylene glycol di- (meth) acrylate, di- (meth) acrylamide, cyanomethylacrylate, vinyloxyethylacrylate, vinyloxyethylmethacrylate, allyl pentaerythritol, diallyl ether trimethylolpropane, allyl sucrose, butadiene, isoprene, divinylbenzene, divinylnaphthalene, ethyl vinyl ether, methyl vinyl ether and allyl acrylate. Other entanglements include formaldehyde and glyoxal. Methylene bisacrylamide is used herein as an entanglement agent. The amounts of wide variation of the entanglement agent may be employed depending on the desired properties in the final polymer, for example, viscosifying effect. Without being limited to the theory, it is believed that the incorporation of an entanglement agent in these cationic polymers provides a material that is a more effective viscosifying agent without negative effects, such as corriosity and viscosity degradation in the presence of electrolytes. The entanglement agent, when present, may include from about 1 ppm to about 1000 ppm, preferably from about 5 ppm to about 750 ppm, most preferably from about 25 ppm to about 500 ppm, most preferably still from about 100 ppm. ppm to about 500 ppm, and even more preferably from about 250 ppm to about 500 ppm of the total weight of the polymer on a weight / weight basis. The intrinsic viscosity of the entangled polymer, measured in a one molar sodium chloride solution at 25 ° C, is generally above 6, preferably from about 8 to about 14. The molecular weight (weight average) of the entangled polymers of the present is high and it is believed that it is almost always between about 1 million and about 30 million. The specific molecular weight is not critical, and average molecular weights of greater or lesser weight may be employed, as long as the polymer retains the intended viscosity effects. Preferably, a 1.0% solution of the polymer (on an active base) in deionized water will have a viscosity at 25 ° C of at least about 20,000 cP, preferably at least about 30,000 cP, when measured at 20 RPM by an RVT of Brookfield (Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, Inc. Stoughton, MA, USA). These cationic polymers can be made by polymerizing an aqueous solution containing from about 20% to about 60%, in general from about 25% to about 40%, by weight of monomer, in the presence of an initiator (hence common oxide-reduction or thermal) until the polymerization is complete. The entanglement agent can also be added to the solution of the monomers to be polymerized, for incorporation into the polymer. In polymerization reactions, in general, the temperature starts between about 0 ° C and 95 ° C. The polymerization can be conducted by forming a reverse phase dispersion of an aqueous phase of the monomers (and also any additional entanglement agents) in a non-aqueous liquid, for example mineral oil, lanolin, isododecane, oleyl alcohol, and others. volatile and non-volatile esters, ethers, and alcohols and the like. All percentages describing the polymer in this section of the description herein are molars, unless otherwise specified. When the polymer contains monomer (C), the molar ratio of monomer (C), based on the total molar amount of (A), (B) and (C), can be from 0% to about 99%. The proportions of (A) and (B) can each be from 0% to 100%. When the acrylamide is used as the monomer (C), it will preferably be used at a level of about 20% to about 99%, most preferably from about 50% to about 90%. Where both monomers (A) and (B) are present, the ratio of monomer (A) to monomer (B) in the final polymer on a molar basis, is preferably from 99: 5 to about 15:85, most preferably from around 80:20 to about 20:80. Alternatively, in another class of polymers, the ratio is from about 5:95 to about 50:50, preferably from about 5:95 to about 25:75. In another alternative class of polymers the ratio (A) :( B) is around 50:50 to about 85:15. Preferably the ratio (A) :( B) is from about 60:40 to about 85:15, most preferably from 75:25 to about 85:15. Most preferred is when monomer (A) is not present and the ratio of monomer (B): monomer (C) is from about 30:70 to about 70:30, preferably from about 40:60 to about 60:40 and most preferably from about 45:55 to about 55:45. The cationic polymers which are useful herein and which are especially preferred are those corresponding to the general structure (A)? (B) m (C) n where I is zero, (B) is methyl quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate , the ratio of (B) :( C) is from about 45:55 to about 55:45, and the entanglement agent is methylenebisacrylamide. An example of said cationic polymer is one that is commercially available as a mineral oil dispersion (which may also include various dispersing aids such as PPG-1 trideceth-6) under the trade name Saleare® SC92 from Allied Colloids Ltd. (Norfolk , Virginia). This polymer has the proposed designation CTFA, "Polyquaternium 32 (and) mineral oil". Other cationic polymers useful herein, are those that do not contain acrylamide or other monomers (C), ie, n is zero. In these polymers the monomer components (A) and (B) are as defined above. An especially preferred group of these polymers that do not contain acrylamide is one where I is also zero. In this case, the polymer is basically a homopolymer of a dialkylammonoalkyl methacrylate monomer or its acid addition salt or quaternary ammonium salt. These dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate polymers preferably contain an entanglement agent as described above.

A cationic polymer, which is essentially a homopolymer, useful herein is a corresponding to the general structure (A)? (B) m (C) n where I is zero, (B) is quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate of methyl, n is zero and the entanglement agent is methylenebisacrylamide. An example of said homopolymer is commercially available as a mixture containing about 50% of the polymer, about 44% mineral oil, and about 6% of PPG-1 trideceth-6 as a dispersing auxiliary, from Allied Colloids Ltd, (Norfolk , VA) under the trade name Saleare® SC95. This polymer has recently been given the designation CTFA "Polyquaternium 37 (and) mineral oil (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6". (iii) Polyacrylamide Polymers Also useful herein are polyacrylamide polymers, especially non-ionic polyacrylamide polymers including branched or unbranched substituted polymers. These polymers can be formed of a wide variety of monomers including acrylamide and methacrylamide which are substituted or unsubstituted with one or two alkyl groups (preferably Ci to C5). Preferred are acrylate amide and methacrylate amide monomers in which the amide nitrogen is substituted, or unsubstituted with one or two alkyl groups of Ci to C (preferably methyl, ethyl or propyl), for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-methacrylamide , N-methylmethacrylamide, N, N-dimethylmethacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, N-isopropylmethacrylamide, and N, N-dimethylacrylamide. These polymers have a molecular weight greater than 1,000,000 preferably greater than about 1,5,000,000 and go up to about 30,000,000. Among these polyacrylamide polymers especially preferred is the nonionic polymer having the CTFA designation of polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the tradename Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation (Fairfield, NJ). Other polyacrylamide polymers useful herein include multiple block copolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available examples of these multi-block copolymers include Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H, from Upo Chemicals, Inc., (Patterson, NJ). (iv) Polysaccharides A wide variety of polysaccharides is useful herein. By "polysaccharides" refers to gelling agents that contain a base structure of repeating sugar units (ie, carbohydrates). Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gelling agents include those selected from the group consisting of cellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Also useful herein are celluloses substituted with alkyl. In these polymers, the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer is hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then modified with a C10-C30 straight or branched chain alkyl group via a linkage with ether. Almost always, these polymers are ethers of straight or branched C10-C30 chain alcohols with hydroxyalkyl-fluosols. Examples of alkyl groups useful herein include those selected from the group consisting of stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, isocetyl, cocoyl (i.e. alkyl groups derived from coconut oil alcohols), palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolenyl , ricinoleyl, behenyl, and mixtures thereof. Among the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers is the material which has received the CTFA designation of cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose. This material is sold under the trade name Natrosol® CS Plus by Aqualon Corporation. Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a straight chain of (1-> 3) glucose-linking units with one (1-> 6) glucose linked every three units, a commercially available example being Clearogel ™ CS11 by Michel Mercier Prodcts Inc. (Mountainside, NJ). (v) Gums Other gelling agents and additional thickeners of the present include materials that are derived mainly from natural sources. Non-limiting examples of these gelling agent gums include materials selected from the group consisting of acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, camitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gum gelano, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropylchitosan, hydroxypropylguar, karaya gum, seaweed, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, gum sclerotium, sodium carboxymethyldextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof. (vi) Vinyl ether / maleic anhydride crosslinkers Other additional thickening and gelling agents useful herein include crosslinked copolymers of alkylvinyl ethers and maleic anhydride. In these copolymers, the vinyl ethers are represented by the formula R-0-CH == CH2 wherein R is a C1-C6 alkyl group, preferably R is methyl. The preferred entanglement agents are C4-C20 dienes, preferably C6 to C16 dienes, and most preferably C8 to C12 dienes. A particularly preferred copolymer is that which is formed of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, wherein the copolymer has been entangled with decadiene, and wherein the polymer, when diluted as a 0.5% aqueous solution at a pH of 7 and 25 ° C, have a viscosity of 50,000-70,000 cps when measured using a Brookfield RTV viscometer, spindle # 7 at 10 rpm. This copolymer has the CTN / MA decadiene crossed polymer of CTFA designation and is commercially available as Stabileze ™ 06 from International Specialty Products (Wayne NJ). (vii) Interlinked PolKN-vinylpyrrolidones) The interlaced polyvinyl (N-pyrrolidones) useful herein as additional thickeners and gelling agents include those described in the U.S.A. No. 5,139,770, to Shih et al., Published August 18, 1992, and the US patent. No. 5,073,614, Shih et al., Published December 17, 1991, both patents are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety. Almost always, these gelling agents contain from about 0.25% to about 1% by weight of an entanglement agent selected from the group consisting of divinyl ethers and diallyl ethers of terminal diols containing from about 2 to about 12 carbon atoms, divinyl ethers and diallyl ethers of polyethylene glycols containing from about 2 to about 600 units, dienes having from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms, divinylbenzene, vinyl and allylic ethers of pentaerythritol, and the like. Typically, these gelling agents have a viscosity of about 25,000 cps at about 40,000 cps when measured as a 5% aqueous solution at 25 ° C using a Brookfiels RVT viscometer with spindle # 6 at 10 rpm. Commercially available examples of these polymers include ACP-1120, ACP-1179, and ACP-1180, available from International Specialty Products (Wayne, NJ). Thickening agents that are suitable for use herein also include those described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,387,107 to Klein et.al., published June 7, 1983 and "Encyclopedia of Polymer and Thickeners for Cosmetics," R.Y. Lochhead and W.R. Fron, eds., Cosmetics & Toiletries. vol. 108, pp. 95-135 (May 1993). which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Preferred compositions of the present invention include a thickening agent selected from the group consisting of carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, and mixtures thereof, most preferably selected from the group consisting of entangled polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, and mixtures thereof.

Optional Components The topical compositions of the present invention may comprise a wide variety of optional components, so long as said optional components are physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described herein, and do not affect the stability, efficacy or other benefits of use. associated with the compositions of the present invention. The optional components may be dispersed, dissolved or the like in the vehicle of the present compositions. The optional components include aesthetic agents and active agents. For example, the compositions may include in addition to the essential components of the composition, absorbers (including oil absorbers such as clay and polymeric absorbents), abrasives, anti-staling agents, antifoaming agent, antimicrobial agents (e.g., a compound capable of destroying microbes, avoid the development of microbes or avoid the pathogenic action of microbes and are useful, for example, to control acne and / or avoid topical composition), binders, biological additives, pH regulating agents, density agents, chemical additives, biocides cosmetics, denaturants, cosmetic astringents, medicinal astringents, external analgesics, film formers, humectants, opacifying agents, fragrances, perfumes, pigments, dyes, essential oils, skin sensitizers, emollients, skin-softening agents, healing agents of the skin skin, pH adjusters, plasticizers, preservatives, preservative improvers, propellants, reducing agents, skin conditioning agents, agents to increase skin penetration, skin protectants, solvents, suspending agents, emulsifiers, thickening agents, solubilizing agents, polymers to assist the properties film formation and substantivity of the composition (such as a copolymer of eicosene and vinylpyrrolidone, an example available from GAF Chemical Corporation such as Ganez® V-220), waxes, sunscreens, sunscreens, ultraviolet light absorbers or dispersing agents , artificial tanning agents, antioxidants and / or radical scavengers, chelating agents, sequestrants, anti-acne agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-androgens, depilation agents, peeling / exfoliating agents, organic hydroxy acids, vitamins and derivatives thereof (including water-soluble and dispersant vitamins such as vitamin C and phosphates of ascorbyl), compounds that stimulate the production of collagen and natural extracts. Other materials are known in the art. Non-exclusive examples of such materials are described in Harrv's Cosmeticology. 7th Ed., Harry & Wilkinson (Hill Publishers, London 1982); in Pharmaceutical Dosage Forms-Disperse Systems; Lieberman, Rieger & Banker, Vols. 1 (1988) & 2 (1989); Marcel Decker, Inc .; in The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics, 2nd Ed., by Navarre (Van Nostrand 1962-1965); v in The Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. 1st Ed. Knowlton & Pearce (Elsevier 1993) and these can also be used in the present invention. In a preferred embodiment the composition also includes an active useful for chronically regulating the condition of the skin. Said materials are those that show benefits in the appearance of the skin followed by the chronic application of the composition containing said materials. Materials that have this effect include, but are not limited to, vitamin B3 compounds and retinoids.

Specific examples of optional components include the following.

A) Vitamin B3 Compounds In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention comprise a safe and effective amount of a vitamin B3 compound. The vitamin B3 compound improves the skin appearance benefits of the present invention, especially by regulating the condition of the skin including regulatory signs of skin aging, very specifically wrinkles, lines and pores. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.01% to about 50%, most preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, still most preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, and even more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 2% to about 5%, of the vitamin B3 compound. As used herein "the vitamin B3 compound" refers to a compound having the formula: wherein R is -CONH2 (ie, niacinamide), -COOH (ie, nicotinic acid) or -CH2OH (nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and you come out of any of the following. Examples of derivatives of the vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide. Suitable nicotinic acid esters include nicotinic acid esters of C-1-C22 alcohols, preferably C? -C- | 6, most preferably CrC6. The alcohols are preferably straight or branched chain, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including aromatic), or substituted or unsubstituted. The esters are preferably non-vasodilators. As used herein, "non-vasodilator" means that the ester does not commonly produce an immediate visible response after application to the skin of the compositions in question (the majority of the general population does not experience a visible immediate response, although said compounds may cause vasodilatation not visible to the eye, ie, the ester is not rubifacient). Non-vasodilating nicotinic acid esters include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate; the tocopherol nicotinate is preferred. Other derivatives of the vitamin B3 compound are the niacinamide derivatives which are the result of the substitution of one or more of the hydrogens of the amide group. Non-limiting examples derived from niacinamide useful herein include nicotinylamino acids derived, for example, from the reaction of an activated nicotinic acid compound (e.g., nicotinic acid azide or nicotinyl chloride) with an amino acid, and nicotinyl alcohol esters of organic carboxylic acids (for example C1-C18). Specific examples of such derivatives include nicotinuric acid (C8H8N203) and nicotinylhydroxamic acid (C6H6N2? 2), which have the following chemical structures: Nicotinuric acid: Nicotinylhydroxamic acid: Some examples of nicotinyl alcohol esters include nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, palmitic acid and the like. Other non-limiting examples of vitamin B3 compounds useful herein are 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, n-methyl-nicotinamide, n, n-diethylnicotinamide, n- (hydroxymethyl) -nicotinamide, quinolinic acid, imide , nicotinanilide, n-benzylnicotinamide, n-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 1- (3-pyridylmethyl) urea, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol, and niaprazine. Examples of the above vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a large number of sources, for example Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, Wl). One or more vitamin B3 compounds can be used herein. The preferred vitamin B3 compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Niacinamide is preferred. When used, salts, derivatives, and derivatives of niacinamide salts are preferably those that have substantially the same efficacy as niacinamide in the methods for regulating the skin condition described herein. The salts of the vitamin B3 compound are also useful herein. Non-limiting examples of salts of vitamin B3 compound herein include organic or inorganic salts such as inorganic salts with anionic inorganic species (eg, chloride, bromide, iodide, carbonate, preferably chloride), and organic salts of carboxylic acid (including mono, di and tri C1-C18 carboxylic acid salts, for example, acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, preferably salts of monocarboxylic acid such as acetate). These and other salts of the vitamin B3 compound can be readily prepared by those skilled in the art, for example, as described by W. Wenner, "The Reaction of L-Ascorbic and D-losascorbic Acid with Nicotinic Acid and Its Amide", J. Organic Chemistry, VOL. 14, 22-26 (1949), which is incorporated herein by reference. Wenner describes the synthesis of the ascorbic acid salt of niacinamide. In a preferred embodiment, the nitrogen ring of the vitamin B3 compound is substantially chemically free (eg, unbound and / or unimpeded), or after supplying the skin is substantially chemically free (from alternative way "chemically free" from here on can be referred to as "not complex"). Most preferably, the vitamin B3 compound essentially does not form complex. Therefore, if the composition contains vitamin B3 compound in a salt form or other form that forms complex, said complex is preferably substantially reversibly, most preferably substantially reversibly, after delivering the composition to the skin. For example, said complex should be substantially reversible at a pH of about 5.0 to about 6.0. Said reversibility can be easily determined by one skilled in the art.

Most preferably, the vitamin B3 compound is substantially not complex in the composition prior to delivery to the skin. Some approaches to minimize or avoid the formation of unwanted complexes include the omission of materials that form substantially irreversible complexes or other complexes with the vitamin B3 compound, pH adjustment, adjustment of ionic strength, the use of surfactants and formulation where the vitamin B3 compound and materials that form complexes are in different phases. Such approaches are well known within the level of those skilled in the art. Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the vitamin B3 compound contains a limited amount of the salt form and is preferably substantially free of salts of a vitamin B3 compound. Preferably the vitamin B3 compound contains less than about 50% of said salt, and is preferably substantially free of the salt form. The vitamin B3 compound in the compositions thereof having a pH of from about 4 to about 7, almost always contains less than about 50% of the salt form. The vitamin B3 compound may be included as the substantially pure material, or an extract obtained by suitable chemical and / or physical isolation from natural sources (e.g., plants). Preferably, the vitamin B3 compound is substantially pure, more preferably, essentially pure.

B) Retinoids In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention contain a retinoid. The retinoid enhances the skin appearance benefits of the present invention, in particular, in the regulation of the condition of the skin, including the regulation of signs of aging of the skin, most especially wrinkles, lines and pores. As used herein, the "retinoid" includes all synthetic and / or natural analogues of vitamin A or retinol-like compounds that possess the biological activity of vitamin A in the skin, as well as the geometric isomers and stereoisomers of these compounds . Preferably, the retinoid is retinol. retinol esters (for example, C2-C22 alkyl esters of retinol, including retinylpalmitate, retinyl acetate, retinylpropionate), retinal and / or retinoic acid (including all-trans retinoic acid and / or 13-cis-retinoic acid), most preferably retinoids that are not retinoic acid. These compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from some sources, for example, Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO), and Boerhinger Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN). Other retinoids that are useful herein are described in the U.S. Patents. Nos. 4,677,120, issued June 30, 1987 to Parish et.al .; 4,885,311, issued December 5, 1989 to Parish et.al .; ,049,584, issued September 17, 1991 to Purcell et al .; 5,124,356, issued June 23, 1992 to Purcell et al .; and reissue 34,075, issued September 22, 1992 to Purcell et.al. Other suitable retinoids are tocopheryl retinoate [tocopherol ester of retinoic acid (trans- or cis-), adapalene. { 6- [3- (1-adamantyl) -4-methoxyphenyl] -2-naphthoic acid} , and tazarotene (ethyl 6- [2- (4,4-dimethylthiochroman-6-yl) -etinyl] nicotinate). One or more retinoids can be used in the present. Preferred retinoids are retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinal and combinations thereof. Most preferred are retinol and retinylpalmitate. The retinoid may be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by physical and / or chemical isolation from natural sources (e.g., plants). Preferably, the retinoid is substantially pure, with greater preference being essentially pure. The compositions of this invention may contain a safe and effective amount of the retinoid, so that, the resulting composition is safe and effective for regulating the condition of the skin, preferably to regulate tactile and / or visible discontinuities in the skin, most preferably to regulate signs of skin aging, more preferably still for regulate tactile and / or visible discontinuities in the texture of the skin related to the aging of the skin. Preferably, the compositions contain from about 0.005% to about 2%, most preferably 0.01% to or about 2% retinoid. Retinol is most preferably used in an amount of or about 0.01% at about 0.15%; the retinol esters are more preferably used in an amount of or about 0.01% to about 2% (eg, about 1%); the retinoic acids are more preferably used in an amount of or about 0.01% or about 0.25%; Tocopheryl retinoate, adapalene and tazarotene are most preferably used in an amount of or about 0.01% to about 2%. In a preferred embodiment, the composition contains a retinoid and a vitamin B3 compound. The retinoid is preferably used in the above amounts, and the vitamin B3 compound is preferably used in an amount of or about 0.1% at or about 10%, still more preferably at or about 2% at or about 5%.

C) Anti-inflammatory agents A safe and effective amount of an anti-inflammatory agent can be added to the compositions of the present invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% of the composition . The anti-inflammatory agent improves the appearance benefits of the skin of the present invention, for example, said agents contribute to a more uniform and acceptable skin tone or color. The exact amount of anti-inflammatory agent that will be used in the compositions will depend on the specific anti-inflammatory agent employed, since said agents vary widely in potency. Steroidal antiinflammatory agents include, but are not limited to, corticosteroids, such as hydrocortisone, hydroxyltriamcinolone, alpha-methyldexametasone, dexamethasone phosphate, beclomethasone dipropionate, clobetasol valerate, desonide, desoximetasone, deoxycorticosterone acetate, dexamethasone, dichlorisone, diacetate, diflorasone, diflucortolone valerate, fluadrenolone, fluclorolone acetonide, fludrocortisone, flumetasone pivalate, fluosinolone acetonide, fluocinonide, fluorortin butyl esters, fluocortolone, fluprednidene acetate (fluprednulidene), flurandrenolone, halcinodide, hydrocortisone acetate, hydrocortisone butyrate, methylprednidolone, triamcinolone acetonide, cortisone, shortdoxone, flucetonide, fludrocortisone, difluorosone diacetate, fluradrenolone, fludrocortisone, diflurosone diacetate, fluiradrenolone acetonide, medrisone, amcinafel, amcinafide, betamethasone and the balance of their esters, chloroprednisone, a chlorprednisone cetato clocortelone, clescinolone, dichlorisone, diflurprednate, flucloronide, flunisolide, fluorometalone, fluperolone, fluprednisolone, hydrocortisone valerate, hydrocortisone cyclopentylpropionate, hydrocortamate, meprednisone, parametasone, prednisolone, prednisone, beclomethasone dipropionate, triamcinolone, and mixtures thereof . The preferred steroidal anti-inflammatory to be used is hydrocortisone.

A second class of anti-inflammatory agents that is useful in the compositions includes non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents. The variety of compounds encompassed by this group is well known to those skilled in the art. For a detailed description of the chemical structure, synthesis, side effects, etc. of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, reference can be made to standard texts, including Anti-inflammatorv and Anti-Rheumatic Drugs. K. D. Rainsford, Vols. I-III, CRC Press, Boca Raton (1985), and Anti-inflammatorv Agents. Chemistrv and Pharmacology, 1, R. A. Scherrer et al., Academic Press, New York (1974), incorporated herein by reference. Specific non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents useful in the composition of the invention include, but are not limited to: 1) oxicams, such as piroxicam, isoxicam, tenoxicam, sudoxicam and CP-14,304; 2) salicylates, such as aspirin, disalcid, benorilate, trilisate, safaprin, solprin, diflunisal and fendosal; 3) acetic acid derivatives, such as diclofenac, fenclofenac, indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin, isoxepac, furofenac, thiopinac, zidometacin, acematacin, fentiazac, zomepirac, clindanac, oxepinac, felbinac and ketorolac; 4) the fenamates, such as mefenamic, meclofenamic, flufenamic, niflumic and tolfenamic acids; ) propionic acid derivatives, such as ibuprofen, naproxen, benoxaprofen, flurbiprofen, ketoprofen, fenoprofen, fenbufen, indoprofen, pirprofen, carprofen, oxaprozin, pranoprofen, miroprofen, thioxaprofen, suprofen, alminoprofen and thiaprofenic acid; and 6) pyrazoles, such as phenylbutazone, oxyphenbutazone, feprazone, azapropazone and trimetazone. Mixtures of these non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents can also be used, as well as the dermatologically acceptable salts and esters of these agents. For example, etofenamate, a flufenamic acid derivative, is particularly useful for topical application. Of the non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, ibuprofen, naproxen, flufenamic acid, etofenamate, aspirin, mefenamic acid, meclofenamic acid, piroxicam and felbinac are preferred; and ibuprofen, naproxen, etofenamate, aspirin and flufenamic acid are more preferred. Finally, the so-called anti-inflammatory agents "natural" are useful in the methods of the present invention. Said agents can be suitably obtained as an extract by suitable chemical and / or physical isolation from natural sources (e.g., plants, fungi, microproduct by-products). For example, candelilla wax, bisabolol alfa, Aloe vera, Manjistha (extracted from plants of the genus Rubia, particularly Rubia cordifolia) and Guggal (extracted from plants of the genus Commiphora, particularly Commiphora mukul), kola extract, chamomile and seaweed extract in the form of a whip.

Other antiinflammatory agents useful herein include compounds of the Licorice family (genus / species Glycyrrhiza glabra), including glycyrrhizic acid, glycyrrhizic acid, and derivatives thereof (e.g., salts and esters). Suitable salts of the above compounds include metal and ammonium salts. Suitable esters include saturated or unsaturated C2-C24 esters of the acids, preferably C10-C24, more preferably C-I6-C24- Specific examples of the above include liposoluble Licorice extract, the glycyrrhizic and glycyrrheic acids themselves, monoammonium glycyrrhizinate , monopotassium glycyrrhizinate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 1-β-glycyrrhetic acid, stearyl glycyrrhretinate and 3-stearyloxy-glycyrrhetinic acid and disodium 3-succinyloxy-beta-glycyrrhetynate. Stearyl glycyrrheate is preferred.

D. Solar filters and sun blockers Exposure to ultraviolet light can result in excessive desquamation and changes in the texture of the stratum corneum. Therefore, the compositions of the present invention preferably contain a sunscreen or sunscreen. The right sunscreens or sunscreens can be organic or inorganic. A wide variety of conventional sunscreen agents are suitable for use herein. Sagarin et al., In chapter VIII, pages 189 and consecutives of Cosmetics Science and Technology (1972). describe numerous suitable agents, and are incorporated herein by reference. Suitable specific sunscreen agents include, for example: p-aminobenzoic acid, its salts and its derivatives (ethyl, isobutyl, glyceryl esters, p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid); anthranilates (ie, o-amino-benzoates; methyl, menthyl, phenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, linalyl, terpinyl, and cyclohexenyl esters); salicylates (amyl, phenyl, octyl, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl and dipropylene glycol esters); cinnamic acid derivatives (menthyl and benzyl esters, a-phenyl cinnamonitrile, butyl cinnamoyl pyruvate); dihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (umbelliferone, methylumbelliferone, methylacetoumbeliferone); trihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (esculetin, methylesculetin, daphnetin, and the glycosides esculin and daphnin); hydrocarbons (diphenylbutadiene, stilbene); dibenzalacetone and benzalacetophenone; naphtholsulfonates (sodium salts of 2-naphthol-3,6-disufonic acids and 2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acids); dihydroxynaphthoic acid and its salts; o- and p-hydroxybiphenyldisulfonates; coumarin derivatives (7-hydroxy, 7-methyl, 3-phenyl); diazoles (2-acetyl-3-bromoindazole, phenylbenzoxazole, methyl naphthoxazole, various aryl benzothiazoles); quinine salts (bisulfate, sulfate, chloride, oleate and tannate); quinoline derivatives (salts of 8-hydroxyquinoline, 2-phenylquinoline); hydroxy- or methoxy-substituted benzophenones; uric and violuric acids; tannic acid and its derivatives (for example, hexaethyl ether); ether (butyl carbotol) (6-propyl piperonyl); hydroquinone; benzophenones (oxibenzene, sulisobenzone, dioxybenzone, benzoresorcinol, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, octabenzone; 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane; butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane; etocrylene; octocrylene; [3- (4'-methylbenzylidene boman-2-one) and 4-isopropyl-di-benzoylmethane. Of these, 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate (commercially available as PARSOL MCX) are preferred., 4,4'-t-butyl methoxydibenzoyl-methane (commercially available as PARSOL 1789), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, digaloyltrioleate, 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 4- ( ethyl bis (hydroxypropyl)) aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, glyceryl p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-tri-methyl cyclohexyl-acetylate, methyl anthranilate , p-dimethyl-aminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl p-dimethyl-amino-benzoate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2- (p-dimethylaminophenyl) -5-sulfonylbenzoxazoic acid, octocrylene, and mixtures of these compounds The most preferred organic sunscreens useful in the compositions useful in the present invention are 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, Octocrylene, and mixtures thereof. Also particularly useful in the compositions are the sunscreens described in the U.S. patent. No. 4,937,370 issued to Sabatelli on June 26, 1990, and the patent of E.U.A. No. 4,999,186 issued to Sabatelli & amp;; Spirnak on March 12, 1991, incorporated herein by reference. The sunscreen agents described herein have, in a single molecule, two distinct chromophore portions that exhibit different absorption spectra of ultraviolet radiation. One portion of the chromophore absorbs predominantly on the UVB radiation scale, and the other absorbs strongly on the UVA radiation scale. Preferred members of this class of sunscreen agents are 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester of 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone; N, N-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -4-aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane; 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane; 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester of 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone; 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester of 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone; N, N-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -4-aminobenzoic acid ester of 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone; and N-N-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -4-aminobenzoic acid ester of 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane, and mixtures thereof. Especially preferred sunscreens or sunscreens include butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and octocrylene. A safe and effective amount of sunscreen or sunscreen is used, typically from about 1% to about 20%, more typically from about 2% to about 10%. The exact amounts will vary, depending on the chosen sunscreen and the desired sun protection factor (SPF).

An agent can also be added to any of the compositions useful in the present invention to improve the substantivity of said compositions on the skin, particularly to increase their resistance to being removed by water or being rubbed. A preferred agent that will provide this benefit is a copolymer of ethylene and acrylic acid. The compositions comprising this copolymer are described in the U.S.A. 4,633,157, issued May 5, 1987, incorporated herein by reference.

E. Antioxidants / radical scavengers Preferred compositions of the present invention include an antioxidant / radical scavenger. The antioxidant / radical scavenger is especially useful to provide protection against UV radiation that can cause increased scaling or texture changes in the corneal extract, and against other environmental agents that can cause skin damage. A safe and effective amount of an antioxidant / radical scavenger may be added to the compositions of the present invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, of the composition. Antioxidants / radical scavengers, such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its salts, ascorbic fatty acid esters, ascorbic acid derivatives (eg, ascorbyl magnesium phosphate), tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol sorbate, may be used. , tocopherol acetate, other tocopherol esters, butylated hydroxybenzoic acids and their salts, 6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (commercially available under the tradename Trolox®), gallic acid and its alkyl esters , especially propyl gallate, uric acid and its alkyl salts and esters, sorbic acid and its salts, amines (for example, N, N-diethylhydroxylamine, aminoguanidine), sulfhydryl compounds (for example, glutathione), dihydroxyfenic acid and its salts , licina pidolate, arginine pilolate, nordihydroguaracetic acid, bioflavonoids, lysine, methionine, proline, superoxide dismutase, silymarin, tea extracts, shell extracts or grape seed, melanin and rosemary extracts. Preferred antioxidants / radical scavengers are selected from tocopherol sorbate and other tocopherol esters, more preferably tocopherol sorbate. For example, the use of tocopherol sorbate in topical compositions and applicable to the present invention is described in the U.S.A. No. 4,847,071, issued July 11, 1989 to Donald L. Bissett, Rodney D. Bush and Ranjit Chatterjee, incorporated herein by reference.

F. Chelating Agents As used herein, "chelating agent" means an active agent capable of removing a metal ion from a system through the formation of a complex, so that the metal can not readily participate in chemical reactions. , or catalyze them. The inclusion of a chelating agent is especially useful to provide protection against UV radiation that may contribute to excessive desquamation or changes in the texture of the skin, and against other environmental agents that may cause damage to it. A safe and effective amount of a chelating agent can be added to the compositions of the present invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, of the composition. Examples of chelating agents that are useful herein are described in the U.S.A. No. 5,487,884, issued on 1/30/96 to Bissett et al .; International Application No. 91/16035, Bush and others, published 10/31/95; and international publication No. 91/16034, Bush et al., published 10/31/95; all incorporated herein by reference. Preferred chelating agents useful in the compositions of the present invention are furthyloxime, and derivatives thereof.

G. Organic hydroxy acids The compositions of the present invention may comprise an organic hydroxy acid. Suitable hydroxy acids include C1-C18 hydroxy acids, preferably of Ce or less. The hydroxy acids can be substituted or unsubstituted, straight chain, branched chain or cyclic (preferably straight chain), and saturated or unsaturated (mono- or poly-unsaturated) (preferably saturated). Non-limiting exes of suitable hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, 5-octanoylsalicylic acid, hydroxyoctanoic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid and lanolin fatty acids. Preferred concentrations of the organic hydroxy acid vary from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, also preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%. Salicylic acid is preferred. The organic hydroxy acids increase the appearance benefits of the skin of the present invention. Organic hydroxy acids tend to improve the texture of the skin.

H. Peeling / exfoliating agents A safe and effective amount of a desquamation agent can be added to the compositions of the present invention, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, even more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%. %, also preferably from about 0.5% to about 4%, of the composition. Desquamation agents increase the skin appearance benefits of the present invention. For example, desquamation agents tend to improve the texture of the skin (e.g., softness). Various desquamation agents are known in the art, and are suitable for use herein including, but not limited to, the organic hydroxy agents described above. A desquamation system which is suitable for use herein comprises sulfhydryl compounds and zwitterionic surfactants, and is described in co-pending application No. 08 / 480,632, filed on June 7, 1995 in the name of Donald L. Bissett, which corresponds to the request of PCT No. US 95/08136, filed on 6/29/95, each incorporated herein by reference. Another desquamation system which is suitable for use herein includes salicylic acid and zwitterionic surfactants, and is disclosed in co-pending patent application No. 08 / 554,944, filed November 13, 1995 as a continuation of the series No 08 / 209,401, filed on March 9, 1994 in the name of Bissett, which corresponds to PCT application No. 94/12745, filed on 4/11/94, published on 5/18/95, each incorporated in the present as a reference. Zwitterionic surfactants, such as those described in these applications, are also useful as peeling agents herein, with cetyl betaine being particularly preferred.

I. Skin lightening agents The compositions of the present invention may comprise a skin lightening agent. When used, the compositions preferably comprise from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, also preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%, of a skin lightening agent. Suitable skin lightening agents include those known in the art, including kojic acid, arbutin, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. Skin lightening agents suitable for use herein also include those described in co-pending patent application No. 08 / 479,935, filed on June 7, 1995 in the name of Hillebrand, which corresponds to the PCT application No. US 95/07432, filed on 12/12/95; and the co-pending patent application series No. 08 / 390,152, filed on February 24, 1995, to the names of Kalla L. Kvalnes, Mitchell A. DeLong, Barton J. Bradbury, Curtis B. Motley and John D. Carter, who corresponds to the PCT application No. US 95/02809, filed 3/1/95, published 9/8/95; all incorporated herein by reference.

J. Skin conditioners Preferred compositions of the present invention comprise an optional skin conditioning component comprising one or more skin conditioning compounds. The conditioning component of the skin is useful to lubricate it, increasing its softness and elasticity, preventing or relieving its dryness, and moisturizing and / or protecting it. The skin conditioning component enhances the skin appearance improvements of the present invention which include, but are not limited to, essentially immediate visual improvements in skin appearance. The skin conditioning component is preferably selected from the group consisting of emollients, humectants, moisturizers, and mixtures thereof.

The skin conditioning component is preferably present at a level of at least about 0.1%, more preferably from about 1% to about 99%, even more preferably from about 1% to about 50%, even more preferably from about 2% to about 30%, and most preferably from about 5% to about 25%. % (for example, from about 5% to about 10% or 15%). Compositions containing the skin conditioning component tend to have the preferred hydration factors described herein. A variety of emollients can be used. These emollients may be selected from one or more of the following classes: triglyceride esters including, but not limited to, vegetable and animal fats and oils, such as castor oil, cocoa butter, safflower oil, seed oil of cotton, corn oil, olive oil, cod liver oil, almond oil, avocado oil, palm oil, sesame oil, squalene, kikui oil and soybean oil; esters of acetoglycerides, such as acetylated monoglycerides; ethoxylated glycerides, such as ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate; alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms and include, but are not limited to, methyl, isopropyl and butyl fatty acids such as hexyl laurate, laurate, isohexyl, isohexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate methyl palmitate, decyl oleate, isodecyl oleate, hexadecyl stearate, decyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, methyl isostearate, diisopropyl adipate, diisohexyl adipate, dihexyldecyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate and cetyl lactate; alkenyl esters of fatty acids having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate and oleyl oleate; fatty acids having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, oleic, linoleic, ricinoleic, arachidic, behenic and erucic acid; fatty alcohols having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, hexadecyl, stearyl, isostearyl, hydroxystearyl, oleyl, ricinoleyl, behenyl, erucilic and 2-octyl dodecanyl alcohol; lanolin and lanolin derivatives such as lanolin, lanolin oil, lanolin wax, lanolin alcohols, lanolin fatty acids, isopropyl lanolate, ethoxylated cholesterol, lanolin alcohols propoxylated, acetylated lanolin alcohols linoleate, lanolin alcohols, ricinoleate lanolin alcohols, ricinoleate acetate lanolin alcohols, ethyl alcohols - ethoxylated esters, hydrogenolysis of lanolin, ethoxylated hydrogenated lanolin absorption bases and liquid and semisolid lanolin; Polyhydric alcohol esters such as mono- and di- fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol, mono- and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di- fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di- fatty acid esters of propylene glycol, propylene glycol monooleate 2000, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, mono- and di-fatty acid esters, glyceryl poligrasos polyglycerol esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monostearate, 1, 2-butylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol distearate, sorbitan fatty acid esters and sorbitan-polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters; esters of waxes such as beeswax, whale sperm, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate; beeswax derivatives, such as sorbitol-polyoxyethylene beeswax, which are reaction products of beeswax with ethoxylated sorbitol of varying content of ethylene oxide, forming a mixture of ether esters; vegetable waxes including, but not limited to, carnauba and candelilla waxes; phospholipids such as lecithin and derivatives; stears that include, but are not limited to, cholesterol and cholesterol fatty acid esters; and amides such as fatty acid amides, ethoxylated fatty acid amides and solid fatty acid alkanolamides. Other types of conditioning compounds are humectants of the polyhydric alcohol type. Typical polyhydric alcohols include polyalkylene glycols, and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, erythritol, threitol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, glucitol, mannitol, hexylene glycol, butylene glycol ( for example, 1,3-butylene glycol), hexanetriol (for example, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol), glycerol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol, sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate, soluble collagen, dibutyl phthalate, gelatin, and mixtures thereof.

Also useful herein are guanidine; glycolic acid and glycolate salts (for example, ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); lactic acid and lactate salts (for example, ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); Aloe vera in any of its variety of forms (for example, Aloe vera gel); sugar and starch derivatives (eg, alkoxylated glucose); hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof (e.g., salt derivatives such as sodium hyaluronate); lactate monoethanolamine; acetamide monoethanolamine; urea; panthenol; sugars; starches; silicone fluids; silicone gums; and mixtures thereof. Also useful are the propoxylated glycerols described in the U.S.A. No. 4,976,953, which is incorporated herein by reference. Other useful conditioning compounds include the various C C3o monoesters and polyesters of sugars and related materials, such as those described herein with respect to the hydrophobic component. The compounds mentioned above can be incorporated individually or in combination.

Preparation of the compositions The compositions of the present invention are generally prepared by conventional methods such as those known in the art of making topical compositions. Such methods typically involve mixing the ingredients in one or more steps to a relatively uniform state, with or without heating, cooling, application of vacuum, and the like.

Properties of compositions The compositions of the present invention are characterized by the ratio of contrast and% transmission or coverage index. The compositions can also be characterized by the appearance viscosity and / or hydration factor. a) Contrast Ratio The compositions of the present invention have a contrast ratio of from about 9 to about 30, more preferably from about 11 to about 22. The contrast ratio can be determined by the following contrast ratio method, using an opacity graph (format "A, Leneta Company of Manwah, NJ or the equivalent thereof), and a chromameter (for example, a CR-200 Minolta chromameter, d65 illuminant, 0 degree viewing angle, equipped with a speculation component, available on the market by Minolta Camera Co. of Ramsey, NJ and described in the manual of chromameters, version 3.0, 1988, incorporated herein by reference, or equivalent thereto.) The opacity graph is half black (top) and half white (bottom), with the colors separated along a line parallel to the horizon, apply 4 grams of a test product in a area of approximately 1.27 cm X 7.62 cm at the top of the graph of opacity. The product is removed by the length of the card, through the two halves and generally symmetrically in a thin film using a 1.5 mil film applicator. (for example, as the available at the BYK Gardner market in Columbia, Maryland or the equivalent to it). The film is allowed to dry for 24 hours under conditions of 25 ° C +/- 1 ° C, 1 atm.

With the use of the chromometer, the value of tristimulus Y (that is, the XYZ color space of the film) of the film of the product. The tristimulus value Y is measured in three different areas of the product film on the black section of the opacity graph and also in three different areas of the product film on the section white of the opacity graph. The areas that are measured are those that they have a homogeneous distribution of the product over the area.

The contrast ratio is calculated as the average mathematical of the three tristimulus values Y on the black areas, divided by the mathematical average of the three tristimulus Y values on the white areas, 100 times: average (three Y black) Contrast ratio = X 100 average (three Y white) b)% transmission and coverage index The compositions of the present invention have a% transmission of about 92% to about 62%, with higher preference from about 85% to about 75%, and a coverage index from about 6 to about 30, more preferably from about 10 to about 20. The coverage index and the% transmission can be determined by the following method of coverage. The determination of the% of transmission and the coverage index involve the measurement of the transmission of light through a collagen film to which the product has been applied, in relation to the control film. The methodology requires a light source with sufficient power to illuminate the sample, a camera and a holding frame for video to capture the image of the sample on the surface of the collagen and a computer with video image software for data analysis and to see it on a video monitor. The appropriate image capture and analysis software includes Optimus 5.2 from Optimus Corp., Washington (see Image Analysis Software guide, volume I); the software and the guide are incorporated here by reference. The use of a collagen film (such as IMS # 1192 or equivalent available from IMS Inc. Milford Ct.) Mounted on a suitable fastener, apply 40 microliters (using an M50 Microman pipette) of product and spread uniformly by hand on the surface of the film, through 10 rotations with the finger. Optionally, the sample is placed on a Zeiss SV-11 microscope (or equivalent), equipped with a 1X lens (the microscope is useful to increase the image that the camera is capturing, the effective increase of this system is around 5 microns / pixel). A mounting template may optionally be used to assist in the relocation of the sample for multiple measurements. The SV-11 should be positioned in such a way that maximum light is transmitted to the camera (for example, a Sony 760-MD CCD 3 camera). To ensure proper placement and a clear image, the equipment is installed as follows. The camera controls are positioned so that the linear and gamma matrix switches are off. The fixing positions of the camera control box are also defined as follows: Gain = 0, white / black balance in automatic, automatic iris, camera mode, detail in position 12 o'clock, phase 0 degrees, SC position 3 o'clock, position H-12 o'clock, color temp. -3200K, shutter off. The camera should be allowed to warm up for 15 minutes before adjusting the black and white balance. Press the button that says "white" to adjust the white balance, and adjust the black balance by pulling the black adjustment lever and pushing the button that says "black". The cables of the computer are connected to the RGB1 and to the composite sync ports in the camera. The iris of the microscope is fixed to open completely, and a matte glass plate is placed on the base of the microscope to obtain a field with uniform illumination. Optionally, a transparent glass plate can be used to adjust the height of the sample. The Optimums 5.2 program opens on the computer. A sample cup that is partially covered with black tape in the path of the light is used to adjust the gain and phase shift (brightness). The reflecting mirror located at the base of the microscope is fixed to obtain the maximum reflection in the microscope. The average of the light source must be 245 to 254.5. The deviation must be less than 3. If the mean is outside the specifications, the alignment of the focus and the adjustment of the mirror are checked. For control, a piece of untreated collagen film (such as IMS # 1192 from IMS Inc. Milford Ct.) Is placed on a sample cup that is located on the microscope so that the film is in the center of the light path. The film is focused and the transmission of light through the film is measured by image capture and analysis software. Multiple measurements are taken from separate areas of the sample, re-positioning and focusing the film for each measurement (seven or more measurements are taken). The mean of the histogram and the standard deviation are determined by image capture and analysis software. To measure the transmission of light by means of the test product, a piece of collagen film is first hydrated with distilled water to ensure flexibility. Lugo 40 microliters of test product are distributed over the film (for example, using an M50 Microman pipette or equivalent) and spread homogeneously over the surface to produce a uniform film covering the surface of the collagen (usually by lightly scattering the material through application of 10 finger rotations, using a clean latex thim material). After waiting for a period of 5 minutes, the sample was place on the base of the microscope. The measurements of light transmission to through the film and the product then they are taken in the manner described for the control.

Less fundamental differences can be made in the data using Fischer's LSD method.

The coverage ratio and% transmission are calculated as follow: average control-media product test coverage index = X 100 control mean % of transmission = 100 - coverage index c) Viscosity of appearance Preferred compositions have an apparent viscosity of approximately 5,000 to around 200,000 centipoises (cps), per example, from about 20,000 to about 150,000 cps, of approximately 25,000 to around 100,000 cps or approximately 40,000 to around 70,000 cps (for example, around 60,000 cps). The lotions of the non-limiting examples have an apparent viscosity of approximately 60,000 to around 160,000 cps. The apparent viscosity can be determined using a DVII RV Brookfield viscometer, TD spindle, at 5 rpm, or the equivalent thereof. The viscosity is determined on the composition after the composition was allowed to stabilize, after its preparation, generally at least 24 hours under conditions of 25 ° C +/- 1 ° C and ambient pressure after preparation of the composition. The apparent viscosity is measured with the composition at a temperature of 25 ° C +/- 1 ° C, after 30 seconds of spindle rotation. d) Hydration Factor The preferred compositions of the present invention have a hydration factor of at least zero, as measured by the hydration test of the skin with humectant. The hydration test of the skin with humectant evaluates and compares the in vivo hydration efficacy of the topical compositions. The test method uses a 820 PC Courage and Khazaka corneometer to measure the electrical capacitance of the skin surface. Without being limited to theory, it is thought that electrical capacitance is an indirect measurement of the presence of water and, therefore, of hydration, of the surface of the skin. The skin moisturizing test with moisturizer is determined using at least 16 subjects in good general health (free of medical conditions, adverse reactions or sensitivities that could affect the results of the skin test). In general, the products that will be tested are applied to the forearms of each subject, in an area that does not have excessive amounts of hair, dermatitis or scars. More specifically, at least two test regions of 3 x 4 cm 2 are identified on the palmar region of the same forearm. The composition of the present invention is applied to a test region (3 μl / cm 2), and a reference (or control) composition is applied to the other test region (3 μl / cm 2). An oil-in-water emulsion that provides a specific level of hydration and has the following formulation is used as the reference composition: * A C1-C30 monoester or polyester of sugars, and one or more portions of carboxylic acid as described herein, preferably a sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is from 7 to 8, and in which the fatty acid portions are C18 and behenic mono- and / or di-unsaturated, at a molar ratio of unsaturated: behenic portions from 1: 7 to 3: 5, more preferably the octaester of sucrose, in which there are approximately 7 portions of behenic fatty acid and about 1 portion of oleic acid in the molecule, for example, sucrose ester of cottonseed oil fatty acids, for example, SEFA cotonate. The components of phase A are mixed using a suitamixer (for example, Tekmar model RW20DZM), heating while stirring at a temperature of about 70 to 80 ° C. The cetyl and methylparebene hydroxyethylcellulose is added with mixing at about 70 to 80 ° C to melt the components. Separately, the components of phase C are mixed, and ground to obtain an acceptably uniform mixture (for example, using a Tekmar T50 mill). The mixture of phase C is added to the above mixture, and mixed. The bath combination is removed, with continuous agitation, until the temperature reaches approximately 45 ° C. The dimethicone is added, and mixed. This is added and mixed in the benzyl alcohol, and then the NaOH. The pH is adjusted as necessary to 7.

Test method: The composition is applied to the subject's skin as described above. The composition is spread over the test region by rubbing in a circular motion, using a finger until the product has completely mixed into the skin. Electrical capacitance values are taken with the co-meter in the baseline (before application of the product) and after 3 hours and 6 hours after application of the product. The corneometer probe should be kept clean before reading each test site using a non-fluff material, such as a Kimwipe and zeroed, against a clean, dry surface to test the integrity of the system. For each subject, the hydration measurements in the treated sites will be subtracted from the baseline (the resulting values being referred to as "unit of measurement"). To compare the data between products, a multiple factor variance analysis should be applied using Fisher's less significant difference analysis.

A comparatively higher corneometer reading indicates greater capacitance of the skin surface and, therefore, higher water content or hydration of the skin surface. The difference between the values of the reference composition in the corneometer and the test formulation (which have been adjusted to the baseline), is the hydration factor, and is illustrated by the following formula: Hydration factor = ( "unit of measurement" test formulation) - ("Unit of measurement" reference formulation) Preferred compositions of the present invention have a hydration factor greater than about 0, preferably about 1.5 or more, more preferably about 2 or more.

Methods for regulating the skin condition The compositions of the present invention are useful for regulating the skin condition in mammals (especially human skin, more especially human facial skin), including regulating the visible and / or tactile discontinuities of the skin, for example, visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the texture of the skin, more especially discontinuities associated with the aging of the skin. A large scale of amounts of the compositions of the present invention can be used to provide a benefit of appearance and / or skin feel. The amounts of the present compositions that are typically applied per application are, in mg composition / cm2 of the skin, from about 0.1 mg / cm2 to about 10 mg / cm2. A particularly useful application amount is approximately 2 mg / cm2. Typically, applications would be of the order of about once a day; however, application regimens may vary from approximately once a week to approximately three times per day or more. The compositions of this invention provide a visible improvement in the condition of the skin essentially immediately after the application of the composition to the skin. Said immediate improvement consists in covering or masking imperfections of the skin such as texture discontinuities (including those associated with aging of the skin, such as enlarged pores), and / or providing a more uniform skin tone or color. In a preferred embodiment, the composition includes an active agent that chronically regulates the condition of the skin and is applied topically in chronic form. "Chronic topical application" and the like, involves continuous topical application of the composition for a prolonged period during the subject's life, preferably for a period of at least about one week, more preferably for a period of at least about one month, even more preferably of at least about three months, even more preferably for at least about six months, and most preferably still for at least about one year. The chronic regulation of the condition of the skin implies the improvement of the condition thereof after multiple topical applications of the composition to the skin. Although benefits are obtained after several maximum periods of use (for example, 5, 10 or 20 years), it is preferred that the chronic application continue throughout the life of the subject. Typically, applications would be of the order of about once per day for such extended periods; however, the application regimens may vary from about once a week to about three times a day or more. The regulation of the condition of the skin involves applying topically to the skin a safe and effective amount of a composition of the present invention. The amount of the composition to be applied, the frequency of application and the period of use will vary widely, depending on the active levels of a given composition and the level of regulation desired, for example, in light of the level of aging of the skin. present in the subject and the speed of additional aging of the skin. Regulation of skin condition is preferably practiced by applying a composition in the form of a lotion, cream, cosmetic or the like on the skin, which is desired to remain on the skin for a prolonged period, for some aesthetic, prophylactic, therapeutic benefit or of another type (that is, a "non-rinse" composition). As used herein, "non-rinsing" compositions exclude rinsing cleansers from the skin. After applying the composition to the skin, the non-rinsing composition is preferably on the skin for a period of at least about 15 minutes, more preferably at least about 30 minutes, even more preferably at least about 1 hour, most preferably at least several hours, for example, up to about 12 hours.

EXAMPLES The following examples best describe and demonstrate the embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are given solely for the purpose of illustration, and are not intended to be limiting of the present invention, since many variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. When applicable, the ingredients are given under the CTFA name.

EXAMPLES 1 TO 3 Oil-in-water emulsions are prepared from the following ingredients using conventional formulation techniques.

* A C1-C30 monoester or polyester of sugars, and one or more portions of carboxylic acid as described herein, preferably a sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is from 7 to 8, and in which the fatty acid portions are C18 and behenic mono- and / or di-unsaturated, at a molar ratio of unsaturated: behenic portions from 1: 7 to 3: 5, more preferably the octaester of sucrose, in which there are approximately 7 portions of behenic fatty acid and about 1 portion of oleic acid in the molecule, for example, sucrose ester of cottonseed oil fatty acids, for example, SEFA cotonate. First, the ingredients of phase A are sprayed using nitrogen for approximately 15 minutes. The ingredients of phase B are ground until the TIO2 is dispersed homogeneously, and then added to phase A. The ingredients of phase C are then dispersed in phase A / B until they are uniform, using a propellant of type of mixing, and the mixture is heated to approximately 75 ° C. In a separate container, the ingredients of phase D are combined and heated to approximately 75 ° C. The mixture of phases A / B / C is then covered with a mantle with a slow and stable nitrogen current. Then, the ingredients of phase D are homogenized in the mixture of A / B / C phases using any rotor / stator of homogenizer type for about 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, the mixing is changed to soft mixing of low rpm. Then, the ingredients of phase E are combined and added to the mixture of phases A-D. Once phase E is mixed and the batch mixture is homogeneous, the entire batch mixture is cooled. When the batch is cooled to approximately 50 ° C, the ingredients of phase F are added and homogenized. When the batch is cooled to approximately 40 ° C, the ingredients of phase G are added to the batch mixture. Finally, when the batch mixture is cooled to approximately 30 ° C, the ingredients of the H phase are combined with the batch mixture. The mixing is continued until the batch mixture is uniform.

The composition is applied to the facial skin of a subject at the 2 mg composition / cm2 skin rate to provide an essentially immediate visual improvement in the appearance of the skin, for example, reduced pore visibility and a more even skin tone. . The composition is applied to the subject's face at the same regimen once or twice a day for a period of 3 to 6 months to improve the surface texture of the skin, including the reduction of wrinkles and fine lines, in addition to improvements essentially immediate in appearance.

EXAMPLES 4 TO 5 Oil-in-water emulsions are prepared from the following ingredients using conventional formulation techniques.

The preparation is carried out in the manner described in Examples 1 to 3. The composition is applied to the facial skin of a subject at the rate of 2 mg composition / cm2 of skin to provide an essentially immediate visual improvement in the appearance of the skin, for example, reduced visibility of pores and a more uniform skin tone. The composition is applied to the subject's face at the same regimen once or twice a day for a period of 3 to 6 months to improve the surface texture of the skin, including the reduction of wrinkles and fine lines, in addition to improvements essentially immediate in appearance. Although the particular embodiments of the present invention have been described, it will be obvious to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications to the present invention can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is intended to cover, in the appended claims, all modifications that are within the scope of the present invention.

Claims (11)

NOVELTY OF THE INVENTION CLAIMS

1. - A topical composition formed by the combination of components including: a) from 0.3% to 2% of material in pigment-grade praticles having a refractive index of at least 2, preferably from 2 to 3, and a size of net primary particle greater than 100 nm to 300 nm; and b) a topical vehicle comprising from 60% to 99.7% of a substantially liquid diluent; the composition having a contrast ratio of 9 to 30, preferably 11 to 22 and a% transmission of 92% to 62%, preferably 85% to 75%.

2. - The composition according to claim 1, further characterized in that the particulate material is selected from the group consisting of TiO2, ZnO, Zr2, and combinations thereof.

3. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the particulate material is Ti02.

4. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the particulate material has a net primary particle size in the composition greater than 100 nm at 1000 nm.

5. - The composition according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that it has an apparent viscosity, in centipoise, of 5,000 to 200,000, preferably 20,000 to 150,000, and more preferably 25,000 to 100,000.

6. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that it includes a skin conditioning component.

7. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that it has a hydration factor of at least 0.

The composition according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the total amount of all the particulate material present in the composition, by weight of the composition, in% by weight of the composition, is 10% or less, preferably 5% or less.

9. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the total amount of all the particulate material present in the composition, by weight of the composition, is 3% or less.

10. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the particulate material present in the composition consists essentially of the particulate material of pigmentary grade.

11. - The composition according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the composition is essentially free of organic sunscreens.