MXPA00004531A - Skin care compositions and method of improving skin appearance - Google Patents

Skin care compositions and method of improving skin appearance

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Publication number
MXPA00004531A
MXPA00004531A MXPA/A/2000/004531A MXPA00004531A MXPA00004531A MX PA00004531 A MXPA00004531 A MX PA00004531A MX PA00004531 A MXPA00004531 A MX PA00004531A MX PA00004531 A MXPA00004531 A MX PA00004531A
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Mexico
Prior art keywords
skin
composition
further characterized
composition according
acid
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MXPA/A/2000/004531A
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Spanish (es)
Inventor
Robert Bao Kim Ha
Timothy John Fowler
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The Procter & Gamble Company
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Application filed by The Procter & Gamble Company filed Critical The Procter & Gamble Company
Publication of MXPA00004531A publication Critical patent/MXPA00004531A/en

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Abstract

Disclosed are topical compositions which provide good coverage of skin imperfections, e.g., pores and uneven skin tone, while retaining a natural skin appearance. The compositions contain a charged particulate material dispersed throughout a thickened, hydrophilic carrier. The charged particulate material allows the compositions to have a Coverage Efficiency Ratio of greater than about 20.

Description

COMPOSITIONS FOR SKIN CARE AND METHOD FOR IMPROVING SKIN APPEARANCE TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to the field of topical compositions, for example skin care compositions, suitable for improving the appearance or other condition of the skin. More particularly, the invention relates to topical skin care compositions that provide adequate coverage of skin imperfections, for example, pores and uneven skin tone, while at the same time allowing the skin to maintain a natural appearance BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Since the beginning of civilization, consumers have used cosmetic products to care for their skin. These products have varied from simple, commonly available materials such as honey and plant extracts to, recently, high-tech synthetic ingredients in a wide variety and arrangement of product forms. A variety of compounds have been described in the art as being useful for regulating fine lines, wrinkles and other forms of rough or uneven texture of the skin surface associated with aging skin or damaged by sunlight. However, many materials require multiple applications over an extended period to provide such appearance benefits. It would be advantageous to provide a topical composition that provides a more immediate improvement in the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, pores and other forms of undesirable texture on the surface of the skin. One method has been to incorporate particulate materials, such as TiO2, into skin care compositions. For example, emulsions may contain TiO2 as an opaque agent to provide a white appearance to the emulsion. Commercial sunscreen compositions may employ such particulate materials to impart a sunscreen effect. Several publications have also described the use of TiO2 in skin care compositions. See, for example, the patent of E.U.A. No. 5,223,559 and patent applications Nos. DE 245815, WO 94/09756 and JP 08188723. In addition, R. Emmert has indicated the desire to use optical means to formulate products that give the consumer an immediate visual improvement (Dr. Ralf Emmert , Quantification of the Soft-Focus Effect, Cosmetics &Toiletries, Vol. 1 1 1, July 1996, pp. 57-61). Emmert describes that the skin lines can be mechanically filled with a reflective substance such as TIO2. However, Emmert teaches that such reflective materials result in an undesirable mask-like appearance, and that therefore a material that diffuses light but that is transparent enough to avoid mask-like appearance should be used. Prior topical compositions containing reflective materials such as TiO2, generally do not provide sufficient coverage to reduce the appearance of skin imperfections, or tend to result in unacceptable skin bleaching or other unnatural appearance when They are applied to the skin. It has also been found that materials that primarily diffuse light, rather than reflect it, do not provide adequate coverage of skin imperfections when used in quantities that are aesthetically acceptable to consumers. Most particularly, when used at relatively high concentrations to cover the skin, these materials suffer from unacceptable skin bleaching. Additionally, reflective particulate materials, such as TIO2, tend to feel dry and add to the negative perception that the composition is not being absorbed into the skin and / or that the composition is not providing a skin conditioning benefit. . As a result, relatively high concentrations contribute to amplify these negative qualities. It has also been found that reflective particle materials have a tendency to agglomerate, for example, grouped together. When these materials are agglomerated larger amounts of particulate material are required to provide sufficient coverage, which adds to the negative perceptions. Therefore, it would be desirable to achieve aesthetically acceptable degrees of skin coverage even though relatively low concentrations of TiO2 are used. In addition, it is desirable that cosmetic compositions have adequate aesthetic characteristics during application to skin and while remaining on the skin. Suitable aesthetic characteristics mean that the composition (i) is light and non-greasy, (ii) has a smooth and silky feel on the skin, (ii) disperses easily and (iv) is rapidly absorbed. These desirable aesthetic characteristics are often achieved by incorporating thickening agents into a composition. However, it is known that particulate materials, such as metal oxides, are often incompatible with many thickening agents, such as carboxylic acid polymers and active ingredients for skin care. The present invention overcomes the problems discussed above therein (for example, unacceptable bleaching of the skin, aesthetic characteristics and compatibility aspects of the formulation) using reflective particulate materials, with surface treatment, charged, which are dispersed in a thickened hydrophilic vehicle. The particulate materials with surface treatment are known in the cosmetics industry, however, their use to date has typically been limited to non-aqueous and anhydrous-based products such as lipsticks, powders, mascara for eyelashes and heavy emulsions. of oil base. It has been discovered in the present invention that the reflectable, surface-treated, charged-off particulate materials (i) are compatible with polymeric thickeners, such as carboxylic acid polymers, (ii) can provide acceptable degrees of skin coverage to relatively low concentrations and (iii) can be formulated in compositions having excellent aesthetic characteristics. Such compositions are especially suitable for providing an immediate visual improvement in the appearance of the skin when applied topically. In view of the foregoing, it is an object of the present invention to provide topical compositions suitable for imparting immediate visual improvement in the appearance of the skin. It is another object of the present invention to provide topical compositions containing a reflective particulate material, eg, TIO2, which provide desirable coverage of skin imperfections such as pores and uneven skin tone, while maintaining an appearance of the skin (for example, without unacceptable skin bleaching). It is another object of the present invention to provide topical compositions that provide especially effective skin coverage while at the same time using relatively small amounts of reflective particulate material. It is even another object of the present invention to provide topical compositions that are additionally useful for regulating the appearance and / or condition of the skin, especially for regulating discontinuities in skin texture or tone (e.g., pores and uneven skin color). ). Another objective of the present invention is to provide topical compositions utilizing reflective particle materials which are compatible with other components of the composition such as active ingredients and polymeric thickeners. It is even another object of the present invention to provide methods for improving the appearance and / or condition of the skin by the topical application of the skin care compositions described in the present invention.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to compositions for skin care which after applying them topically to the skin provide immediate visual improvement of the appearance of the skin. Such compositions comprise: (A) from about 1% to about 99.98%, by weight of the composition, of a hydrophilic liquid carrier; (B) from about 0.01% to about 20%, by weight of the composition, of a polymeric thickening agent, and (C) from about 0.01% to about 2%, by weight of the composition, of a reflective particulate material, charged having an average primary particle size of about 100 nm to about 300 nm. The charged particulate material is dispersed through the thickened hydrophilic liquid carrier. Such compositions provide a Coverage Efficiency Ratio greater than about 20. The compositions described in the present invention are preferably in the form of emulsions and contain charged, reflective particulate material, such as coated metal oxides. Preferred metal oxides are selected from TiO2, ZnO and Zr02, with Ti02 being more preferred. In further preferred embodiments, the present invention relates to compositions containing one or more compounds that are selected from the group consisting of emulsifiers, surfactants, structuring agents, skin care additives and combinations thereof. The present invention also relates to methods for regulating the condition of the skin with the compositions described therein.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The compositions of the present invention may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of, the essential ingredients, as well as other ingredients and optional components described therein. As used herein, the phrase "consists essentially of" means that the composition or component may include additional ingredients, but only if the additional ingredients do not materially alter the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed compositions or methods. All publications cited in the present invention are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety. All percentages and ratios used in the present invention are by weight of the total composition and all measurements are at 25 ° C, unless otherwise indicated. The term "topical application", as used herein, means applying or spreading the compositions of the present invention on the surface of the skin. The term "dermatologically acceptable", as used herein, means that the compositions or components thereof described herein are suitable for use in contact with human skin without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response and the like. The term "safe and effective amount", as used herein, means an amount of a compound, component or composition sufficient to induce significantly a positive benefit, preferably a skin appearance or positive sensation benefit, including independently benefits described here, but low enough to avoid serious side effects, that is, to provide a reasonable benefit-risk ratio, within the scope of sound medical judgment. The active ingredients and other ingredients useful herein may be classified or described herein for their cosmetic and / or therapeutic benefit or by their postulated mode of action. However, it should be understood that the active ingredients and other ingredients useful herein may in some cases provide more than one cosmetic and / or therapeutic benefit, or function by means of more than one mode of action. Therefore, the classifications herein are made for reasons of convenience and no attempt is made to limit any ingredients to the application or applications particularly mentioned. The compositions of the invention are useful for topical application and for providing essentially immediate visual improvement (i.e., acute) in the appearance of the skin after application of the composition to the skin. Without attempting to be limited by theory, it is believed that this acute improvement in the appearance of the skin is the result at least in part of a therapeutic coverage or masking of skin imperfections by the charged particulate material. The compositions provide the visual benefits without imparting an unacceptable appearance of the skin, such as skin whitening. Most particularly, the compositions of the present invention are useful for regulating skin conditions, including regulating visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the skin, including but not limited to visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the texture and / or color of the skin. skin, especially discontinuities associated with the aging of the skin. These discontinuities can be induced or caused by internal and / or external factors. Extrinsic factors include ultraviolet radiation (e.g., from sun exposure), environmental pollution, wind, heat, low humidity, aggressive surfactants, abrasives and the like. Intrinsic factors include chronological aging and other biochemical changes from within the skin. The regular condition of the skin includes regular prophylactic and / or therapeutically skin condition. As used herein, prophylactically regulating the condition of the skin includes delaying, minimizing and / or preventing visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the skin. As used herein, therapeutically regulating the condition of the skin includes minimizing, i.e., decreasing, minimizing and / or erasing said discontinuities. Regulating the condition of the skin involves improving the appearance and / or feeling of the skin, for example, providing a smoother and more uniform appearance and / or feel. As used herein, regulating the condition of the skin includes regulating the signs of aging. "Regulating the signs of skin aging" includes regulating prophylactically and / or therapeutically regulating one more of said signs (similarly, regulating a certain sign of skin aging, for example, lines, wrinkles or pores, includes prophylactically regulating and / or therapeutically regulate that sign). The "signs of skin aging" include, but are not limited to, all manifestations that are visibly and tactilely perceptible to the outside, as well as any other macro or micro effects caused by the aging of the skin. These signs can be induced or caused by intrinsic factors or extrinsic factors, for example, chronological aging and / or environmental damage. These signs may result from processes that include, but are not limited to, the development of texture discontinuities such as wrinkles, including both fine surface wrinkles and deep deep wrinkles, skin lines, folds, bulges, large pores (eg, associated with attached structures such as sweat gland ducts, sebaceous glands or hair follicles), dryness, scaly and / or other forms of irregularity or roughness of the skin, loss of skin elasticity (loss and / or inactivation of elastin) functional in the skin), softening (including swelling in the eye area and jowls), loss of skin firmness, loss of skin stiffness, loss of skin recovery from deformation, discoloration ( including circles under the eye), spotting, pallor, hyperpigmented regions on the skin such as spots and freckles due to age, keratosis, abnormal differentiation l, hyperkeratinization, elastosis, collagen degradation and other histological changes in the stratum corneum, dermis, epidermis, the vascular system of the skin (for example, telangiectasia or spider vessels), and underlying tissues, especially those close to the skin. It should be understood that the present invention is not limited to the regulation of the aforementioned "signs of skin aging", which originate due to mechanisms associated with the aging of the skin, but which attempts to include the regulation of said signs regardless of the mechanism of origin. The present invention is especially useful for therapeutically regulating visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the skin of mammals, including discontinuities in the texture and color of the skin. For example, the apparent diameter of the pores decreases, the apparent height of the tissue immediately close to the openings of the pores approaches that of the inter-annealed skin, the skin tone / color becomes more uniform and / or the length, depth and / or other dimensions of lines and / or wrinkles are decreased. The compositions of the present invention essentially contain a hydrophilic liquid carrier, a polymeric thickening agent for the hydrophilic liquid carrier, and charged reflective particulate material dispersed through the hydrophilic liquid carrier. The compositions of the present invention may also contain a wide variety of optional ingredients. The essential ingredients and preferred optional ingredients of the compositions of the present invention, as well as the preparation of the composition and its use are described below in greater detail: I. Hydrophilic Liquid Vehicle The compositions of the present invention comprise from about 1% to about 99.98%, preferably from about 20% to about 95%, more preferably from about 40% to about 90%, by weight of the composition, of a hydrophilic liquid vehicle, for example, water or another hydrophilic diluent. In this manner, hydrophilic liquid carrier may comprise water, or a combination of water and one or more ingredients soluble or dispersible in water. Hydrophilic components comprising water are preferred. The hydrophilic liquid vehicle component can comprise any dermatologically acceptable vehicle within which the essential thickening agents, reflective particulate material, and the other optional materials can be incorporated to allow particulate material and optional components to be delivered to the skin. an appropriate concentration. Therefore, the hydrophilic liquid vehicle ensures that the particulate material is applied to and evenly distributed over the selected target at an appropriate concentration. The vehicle may contain one or more fillers, diluents, solvents, extenders and the like, semi-solids or dermatologically acceptable liquids. Liquid vehicles can also include gel materials. The preferred vehicles are substantially liquid. The vehicle can itself be inert or it can have its own dermatological benefits. The concentrations of the hydrophilic liquid vehicle may vary with the selected vehicle and the desired concentrations of the essential and optional components. Suitable hydrophilic liquid carriers include conventional vehicles and other known vehicles that are dermatologically acceptable. The vehicle must also be physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described herein, and must not unduly impair the stability, efficacy or other benefits of use associated with the compositions of the present invention. The preferred components of the compositions of this invention should be capable of being combined such that there is no interaction that could substantially reduce the effectiveness of the composition under normal use situations. The type of hydrophilic vehicle used in the present invention depends on the type of product form desired for the composition. Topical compositions useful in the present invention can be made in a wide variety of product forms such as those known in the art. These include, but are not limited to, lotions, creams, gels, sprays, pastes, foams and cosmetics (eg, semi-solid or liquid makeup, including foundation, eye makeup, pigmented or non-pigmented treatments for lips and the like). These product forms can comprise various types of vehicles including, but not limited to, solutions, aerosols, emulsions, gels and liposomes. Preferred hydrophilic vehicles can contain a non-aqueous, dermatologically acceptable hydrophilic diluent. Non-limiting examples of hydrophilic diluents are organic hydrophilic diluents such as lower monovalent alcohols (e.g., C-C-C) and low molecular weight polyols and glycols, including propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (e.g. of molecular weight of 200-600 g / mol), polypropylene glycol (for example, molecular weight 425-2025 g / mol), glycerol, butylene glycol, 1,4-butanetriol, sorbitol esters, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, isopropanol, sorbitol esters , butanediol, propanolic ether, ethoxylated ethers, propoxylated ethers and combinations thereof. as described later in the present invention, the liquid hydrophilic carrier may contain a wide variety of optional water soluble or miscible ingredients which may perform one or more conditioning or skin treatment functions. The compositions containing a hydrophilic liquid carrier component, which is thickened and contains the charged, reflective particulate materials, may also comprise a hydrophobic phase which results in the form of emulsions to the product, the compositions having a hydrophilic phase and A hydrophobic phase is also described later in the present invention.
II. POLYMER THICKENING AGENT The compositions of the present invention also comprise a polymeric thickening agent. The polymeric thickening agent constitutes from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, and more preferably from about 0.25% to about 2% by weight of the composition. The polymeric thickening agent serves to increase the viscosity of the hydrophilic liquid vehicle and helps to disperse or suspend the reflecting particulate material charged in the hydrophilic liquid carrier. In addition, the polymeric thickening agent also improves the aesthetic characteristics of the composition, for example good feeling, non-greasy character, easy dissemination, etc. The non-limiting classes of preferred thickening agents for use in the compositions of the present invention include the following: (A) Carboxylic acid polymers These polymers are crosslinked compounds containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinking agent contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and is obtained from a polyhydric alcohol. Preferred carboxylic acid polymers are of two general types. The first type of polymer is an entangled homopolymer of an acrylic acid monomer or derivative thereof (eg, wherein the acrylic acid has substituents at the positions of carbons two and three independently selected from the group consisting of C-, -CN, -COOH, and mixtures thereof). The second type of polymer is an entangled copolymer having a first monomer selected from the group consisting of an acrylic acid monomer or derivative thereof (as described in the previous sentence), an acrylate ester monomer of short chain alcohol (i.e., a Ci ^) or derivative thereof (eg, wherein the acrylic acid portion of the ester has substituents at the two carbon and three carbon positions independently selected from the group consisting of C1 alkyl ., -CN, -COOH, and mixtures thereof), and mixtures thereof; and a second monomer which is a long-chain (ie C8-C40) alcohol acrylate ester monomer or derivative thereof (eg, wherein the acrylic acid portion of the ester has substituents on the carbon positions two and three independently selected from the group consisting of C-, -CN, -COOH alkyl, and mixtures thereof). The combinations of these two types of polymers are also useful herein. In the first type of entangled homopolymers, the monomers are preferably selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, ethacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof, with acrylic acid being most preferred. In the second type of entangled copolymers, the acrylic acid monomer or derivative thereof is preferably selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, ethacrylic acid and mixtures thereof, with acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and mixtures being of them the most preferred. The short chain alcohol acrylate ester monomer or derivative thereof is preferably selected from the group consisting of C-alcohol acrylate esters, C-alcohol methacrylate esters, alcohol ethacrylate esters of Ci ^ and mixtures thereof, with C-alcohol acrylate esters, C-alcohol methacrylate esters and mixtures thereof being most preferred. The long chain alcohol acrylate ester monomer is selected from the alkyl acrylate esters of Cs ^ o, with the alkyl acrylate esters of C? 0-3 being preferred. The crosslinking agent in both types of polymers is a polyalkenyl polyether of a polyhydric alcohol containing more than one alkenyl ether group per molecule, wherein the original polyhydric alcohol contains at least 3 carbon atoms and at least three hydroxyl groups. Preferred entanglement agents are those selected from the group consisting of allylic ethers of sucrose and allylic ethers of pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof. These polymers useful in the present invention are described in greater detail in the U.S.A. No. 5,087,445, Haffey et. al., issued on February 11, 1992; the patent of E.U.A. No. 4,509,949 to Huang et. al., issued on April 5, 1985; the patent of E.U.A. No. 2,798,053, Brown, issued July 2, 1957; which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. See also, CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionarv. 4th edition, 1991, pp. 12 and 80; which is also incorporated in the present invention as a reference in its entirety. Examples of commercially available homopolymers of the first type useful in the present include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allylic ethers of sucrose or pentaerythritol. Carbomers are available as the Carbopol® 900 series from B.F. Goodrich (for example, Carbopol® 954). Examples of commercially available copolymers of the second type useful herein include copolymers of C 0-3 alkyl acrylates with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of their short chain esters (i.e. , Ci ^ alcohol), wherein the entanglement agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known as C polí-3o alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymers / acrylates and are commercially available as Carbopol® 1342, Carbopol® 1382Pemulen TR-1, and Pemulen TR-2, from B.F. Goodrich. In other words, examples of polymeric carboxylic acid thickeners useful herein are those selected from the group consisting of carbomers, C polí-3o alkyl acrylate / acrylate cross-linked polymers, and mixtures thereof.
B) Interlaced polyacrylate polymers The crosslinked polyacrylate polymers useful as thickeners or gelling agents include both cationic and nonionic polymers, cationics being generally preferred. Examples of useful interlaced nonionic polyacrylate polymers and crosslinked cationic polyacrylate polymers are those described in the U.S.A. 5,100,660, Hawe et. al., issued on March 31, 1992; the patent of E.U.A. 4,849,484, by Heard, issued July 18, 1989; the patent of E.U.A. 4,835,206, Farrar et al. al., issued May 30, 1989; the patent of E.U.A. 4,628,078 to Glover et. al., issued on December 9, 1986; the patent of E.U.A. 4,599,379, by Flesher et. al., issued July 8, 1986; and EP 228,868, Farrar et al. al., published July 15, 1987; all incorporated as reference in the present in its entirety. The crosslinked polyacrylate polymers are high molecular weight materials which can be characterized by the general formula: (A)? (B) m (C) n and comprises the monomer units (A) ?, (B) m. and (C) n, wherein (A) is a dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate monomer or its acid addition salt or quaternary ammonium salt, (B) is a dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate monomer or its acid addition salt or ammonium salt quaternary, (C) is a monomer that can be polymerized with (A) or (B), for example a monomer having a carbon-carbon double bond or another such functional group that can be polymerized, I is an integer of 0 or greater , m is an integer of 0 or greater, n is an integer of 0 or greater, but where either I or m, or both, must be 1 or greater. The monomer (C) can be selected from any of the monomers commonly used. Non-limiting examples of these monomers include ethylene, propylene, butylene, isobutylene, eicosene, maleic anhydride, acrylamide, methacrylamide, maleic acid, acrolein, cyclohexene, ethyl vinyl ether and methylvinyl ether. In the cationic polymers of the present invention, (C) is preferably acrylamide. The alkyl portions of the monomers (A) and (B) are short chain length alkyls, such as C? -C8, preferably C1-C5, most preferably C1-C3, and most preferably still C-? - C2. When quaternized, the polymers are preferably quaternized with short chain alkyls, i.e. Ci-Cs, preferably C1-C5, most preferably C1-C3, and most preferably still C---C2. Acid addition salts refer to polymers having protonated amino groups. The acid addition salts can be prepared through the use of halogen acids (for example chloride), acetic, phosphoric, nitric, citric acids and others. These polymers (A)? (B) m (C) n also comprise an entanglement agent, which is almost always a material containing two or more unsaturated functional groups. The entanglement agent is reacted with the monomer units of the polymer and is incorporated into the polymer, whereby it forms covalent bonds or bonds between two or more individual polymer chains or between two or more sections of the same polymer chain. Non-limiting examples of suitable entanglement agents include those selected from the group consisting of methylenebisacrylamides, diallylalkylammonium halides, polyalkenyl polyethers of polyhydric alcohols, allyl acrylates, vinyloxyalkyl acrylates and polyfunctional vinylidenes. Specific examples of entanglement agents useful herein include those selected from the group consisting of methylenebisacrylamide, ethylene glycol di- (meth) acrylate, di- (meth) acrylamide, cyanomethylacrylate, vinyloxyethylacrylate, vinyloxyethylmethacrylate, allyl pentaerythritol, diallyl ether trimethylolpropane, allyl sucrose, butadiene, isoprene, divinylbenzene, divinylnaphthalene, ethyl vinyl ether, methyl vinyl ether and allyl acrylate. Other entanglement agents include formaldehyde and glyoxal. Methylene bisacrylamide is used herein as an entanglement agent. The amounts of wide variation of the entanglement agent may be employed depending on the desired properties in the final polymer, for example, viscosifying effect. Without being limited to the theory, it is believed that the incorporation of an entanglement agent in these cationic polymers provides a material that is a more effective viscosifying agent without negative effects, such as courier and viscosity degradation in the presence of electrolytes. The entanglement agent, when present, may include from about 1 ppm to about 1000 ppm, preferably from about 5 ppm to about 750 ppm, most preferably from about 25 ppm to about 500 ppm, most preferably still from about 100 ppm. ppm to about 500 ppm, and even more preferably from about 250 ppm to about 500 ppm of the total weight of the polymer on a weight / weight basis. The intrinsic viscosity of the entangled polymer, measured in one molar sodium chloride solution at 25 ° C, is generally above 6, preferably from about 8 to about 14. The molecular weight (average weight) of the entangled polymers of the present is high and it is believed that it is almost always between about 1 million and about 30 million. The specific molecular weight is not critical, and higher or lower weight average molecular weights may be employed, as long as the polymer retains the intended viscosity effects.
Preferably, a 1.0% solution of the polymer (on an active ingredient basis) in deionized water will have a viscosity at 25 ° C of at least about 20,000 cP, preferably at least about 30,000 cP, when measured at 20 RPM using a Brookfield RVT (Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, Inc. Stoughton, MA, USA). These cationic polymers can be made by polymerization of an aqueous solution containing from about 20% to about 60%, generally from about 25% to about 40%, of monomer by weight, in the presence of an initiator (usually from oxide-reduction or thermal) until the polymerization is completed. The entanglement agent can also be added to the solution of the monomers to be polymerized, for incorporation into the polymer. In polymerization reactions, in general, the temperature starts between about 0 ° C and 95 ° C. The polymerization can be conducted by forming a reverse phase dispersion of an aqueous phase of the monomers (and also any additional entanglement agents) in a non-aqueous liquid, for example mineral oil, lanolin, isododecane, oleyl alcohol, and others. esters, ethers and volatile and non-volatile alcohols, and the like. All percentages describing the polymer in this section of the description herein are molars, unless otherwise specified. When the polymer contains monomer (C), the molar ratio of monomer (C), based on the total molar amount of (A), (B) and (C), can be from 0% to about 99%. The proportions of (A) and (B) can each be from 0% to 100%. When the acrylamide is used as the monomer (C), it will preferably be used at a level of about 20% to about 99%, most preferably from about 50% to about 90%. Where both monomers (A) and (B) are present, the ratio of monomer (A) to monomer (B) in the final polymer on a molar basis, is preferably from 99: 5 to about 15:85, most preferably from around 80:20 to about 20:80. Alternatively, in another class of polymers, the ratio is from about 5:95 to about 50:50, preferably from about 5:95 to about 25:75. In another alternative class of polymers the ratio (A) :( B) is around 50:50 to about 85:15. Preferably the ratio (A) :( B) is from about 60:40 to about 85:15, most preferably from 75:25 to about 85:15. Most preferable is when the monomer (A) is not present and the ratio of the monomer (B): monomer (C) is from about 30:70 to about 70:30, preferably from about 40:60 to about 60: 40 and most preferably from about 45:55 to about 55:45. The cationic polymers which are useful herein and which are especially preferred are those corresponding to the general structure (A)? (B) m (C) n where I is zero, (B) is methyl quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate , the ratio of (B) :( C) is from about 45:55 to about 55:45, and the entanglement agent is methylenebisacrylamide. An example of such a cationic polymer is one that is commercially available as a dispersion in mineral oil (which may also include various dispersing aids such as PPG-1 trideceth-6) under the trade name Saleare® SC92 from Allied Colloids Ltd. (Norfolk , Virginia). This polymer has the proposed designation CTFA, "Polyquatemium 32 (and) mineral oil". Other cationic polymers useful herein are those that do not contain acrylamide or other monomers (C), ie, n is zero. In these polymers the monomer components (A) and (B) are as defined above. An especially preferred group of these polymers that do not contain acrylamide is one where I is also zero. In this case, the polymer is basically a homopolymer of a dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate monomer or its acid addition salt or quaternary ammonium salt. These dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate polymers preferably contain an entanglement agent as described above. A cationic polymer, which is essentially a homopolymer, useful herein is one corresponding to the general structure (A)? (B) m (C) n where I is zero, (B) is methyl quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, n is zero and the entanglement agent is methylenebisacrylamide. An example of such a homopolymer is commercially available as a mixture containing about 50% of the polymer, about 44% mineral oil, and about 6% of PPG-1 trideceth-6 as a dispersing auxiliary, from Allied Colloids Ltd, (Norfolk , VA) under the trade name Saleare® SC95. This polymer has recently been given the designation of CTFA "Polyquatemium 37 (and) mineral oil (and) PPG-1 Trideceth-6".
(C) Polyacrylamide Polymers Also useful herein are polyacrylamide polymers, especially non-ionic polyacrylamide polymers including branched or unbranched substituted polymers. These polymers can be formed of a wide variety of monomers including acrylamide and methacrylamide which are substituted or unsubstituted with one or two alkyl groups (preferably Ci to C5). Preferred are acrylate amide and methacrylate amide monomers in which the amide nitrogen is substituted, or unsubstituted with one or two C1 to C5 alkyl groups (preferably methyl, ethyl or propyl), eg, acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-methacrylamide , N-methylmethacrylamide, N, N-dimethylmethacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, N-isopropylmethacrylamide, and N, N-dimethylacrylamide. These polymers have a molecular weight greater than 1,000,000 preferably greater than about 1,5,000,000 and go up to about 30,000,000. Among these polyacrylamide polymers, especially preferred is the nonionic polymer having the CTFA designation of polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the tradename Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation (Fairfield, NJ).
Other polyacrylamide polymers useful herein include multiple block copolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available examples of these multi-block copolymers include Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H, from Lipo Chemicals, Inc., (Patterson, NJ).
(D) Polysaccharides A wide variety of polysaccharides is useful in the present invention as thickening agents. By "polysaccharides" it refers to gelling agents that contain a base structure of repeated sugar units (ie, carbohydrates). Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gelling agents include those selected from the group consisting of cellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Also useful herein are celluloses substituted with alkyl. In these polymers, the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymer is hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form a hydroxyalkylated cellulose which is then modified with a straight or branched chain alkyl group of C 10 -C 30 via an ether linkage. Typically, these polymers are ethers of straight or branched C10-C30 chain alcohols with hydroxyalkyl celluloses. Examples of alkyl groups useful herein include those selected from the group consisting of stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, isocetyl, cocoyl (i.e. alkyl groups obtained from coconut oil alcohols), palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolenyl , ricinoleyl, behenyl, and mixtures thereof. Among the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers is the material which has received the CTFA designation of cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose. This material is sold under the trade name Natrosol® CS Plus by Aqualon Corporation. Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising a linear chain of (1-> 3) linked units of glucose with one (1-> 6) glucose linked every three units, an example available on the market is Clearogel ™ CS11 from Michel Mercier Products Inc. (Mountainside, NJ).
(E) Gums Other additional gelling agents and thickeners useful herein include materials that are derived primarily from natural sources. Non-limiting examples of these gelling agent gums include materials selected from the group consisting of acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropylchitosan, hydroxypropylguar, karaya gum, seaweed, locust bean gum , natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyldextran, sodium carrageenan, gum tragacanth, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.
(F) Interlaced vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers Other additional thickening and gelling agents useful herein include entangled copolymers of alkyl vinyl ethers and maleic anhydride. In these copolymers, the vinyl ethers are represented by the formula R-O-CH == CH2 wherein R is a C1-C6 alkyl group, preferably R is methyl. Preferred entanglement agents are C4-C20 dienes, preferably C6 to C16 dienes, and most preferably C8 to C12 dienes. A particularly preferred copolymer is that which is formed of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, wherein the copolymer has been entangled with decadiene, and wherein the polymer, when diluted as a 0.5% aqueous solution at a pH of 7 and 25 ° C, have a viscosity of 50,000-70,000 cps when measured using a Brookfield RTV viscometer, spindle # 7 at 10 rpm. This copolymer has the cross-linked CTFA designation of PVM / MA decadiene and is commercially available as Stabileze ™ 06 from International Specialty Products (Wayne NJ).
(G) Interlaced PolyfN-vinylpyrrolidones The interlaced polyvinyl (N-pyrrolidones) useful herein as additional thickeners and gelling agents include those described in the U.S.A. No. 5,139,770, to Shih et al., Issued August 18, 1992, and the US patent. No. 5,073,614, Shih et al., Issued December 17, 1991, both patents are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Typically, these gelling agents contain from about 0.25% to about 1% by weight of an entanglement agent selected from the group consisting of divinyl ethers and diallyl ethers of terminal diols containing from about 2 to about 12 carbon atoms, ethers diallylic and diallyl ethers of polyethylene glycols containing from about 2 to about 600 units, dienes having from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms, divinylbenzene, vinyl and allylic ethers of pentaerythritol, and the like. Typically, these gelling agents have a viscosity of about 25,000 cps at about 40,000 cps when measured as a 5% aqueous solution at 25 ° C using a Brookfield RVT viscometer with # 6 spindle at 10 rpm. Commercially available examples of such polymers include ACP-1 120, ACP-1 179, and ACP-1 180, available from International Specialty Products (Wayne, NJ). Thickening agents that are suitable for use herein also include those described in the U.S.A. Do not. 4,387,107, to Klein et al, June 7, 1983, and "Encyclopedia of Polymer and Thickeners for Cosmetics," R. Y. Lochhead and W. R. Fron, eds., Cosmetics & Toiletries, vol. 108, pp. 95-135 (May 1993), which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Preferred compositions of the present invention include a thickening agent selected from the group consisting of carboxylic acid polymers, cross-linked acrylates / C?-C 30 alkyl acrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, and mixtures thereof. In general, the thickening agent used to thicken the hydrophilic liquid carrier will preferably not be used in acid form because the acidic thickeners can interact with the suspended or dispersed reflective charge particle material within the thickened hydrophilic phase. Alternatively, if the acid form of the thickening agent is used, the composition can be neutralized at a pH scale described hereinafter before the addition of the reflective filler particle material. In general, the pH of the thickened hydrophilic liquid carrier will be in the range of 4 to 8.5, preferably 4.5 to 8, more preferably 5 to 8, and more preferably 6 to 8. lll. Charged particle material The compositions of the present invention also comprise essentially from 0.01% to 2%, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5%, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight of the composition, of a charged particulate material dispersed through the thickened hydrophilic carrier. The charged particulate material will preferably comprise a metal oxide which is coated with a coating material that confers a net charge that is larger than the zeta potential of the uncoated metal oxide. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that reflective particulate materials, such as Ti02, possess in general relatively high surface activity, creating formulation instabilities discussed hereinabove, for example, with polymeric thickening agents. In addition, these particulate materials have a tendency to agglomerate, for example to form clusters. These problems can be solved by coating the metal oxide with a coating material that confers a net charge that is larger than the zeta potential of the uncovered reflecting particle material. Typically, the coating material confers a zeta potential that is larger than ± 20 mV (e.g. in the positive or negative direction) at a pH of 4 to 8.5. This provides formulation stability and avoids agglomeration of reflective particle materials. The particles and their fillers are well known to those of skill in the art, and are well described in R. J. Hunter, Zeta Potential in Colloid Science: Principles and Application (1981), published by Academic Press; J. N. Israelachvili, Intermolecular and Surface Forces: With Applications to Colloidal and Biological Systems (1985), published by Academic Press; and Hoogeven, N.G. et al, Colloids and Surfaces. Physiochemical and Engineering Aspects, Vol. 1 17, p. 77 (1966). All such publications are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Preferably, the particulate materials all have a net cationic charge or a net anionic charge. It is believed that because all particles have the same charge, the repulsive forces prevent agglomeration and induce uniform distribution through the hydrophilic phase. As a result, (i) lower concentrations of the reflective particle material can be used to obtain acceptable degrees of skin coverage, (i) the aesthetics of the composition is increased, and (iii) formulation instabilities are diminished. Therefore, the use of charged particle material provides efficient coverage at relatively low levels of reflective particle materials. The charged particulate material useful in the compositions of the present invention will generally have a refractive index of at least 2, more preferably at least 2.5, for example from 2 to 3. The refractive index can be determined by conventional methods. For example, a method for determining the refractive index that is applicable to the present invention is described in J.A. Dean, Ed., Lange's Handbook of Chemistrv, 14th Ed., McGraw Hill, New York, 1992, Section 9, Refractometry, hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety. Preferred particulate materials are those having a primary particle size of 100 nm to 300 nm, more preferably from 100 nm to 250 nm in net form (i.e. in the essentially pure form, in powder before combination with any carrier ). Preferred particulate materials have a primary particle size when dispersed in the composition from 100 nm to 1000 nm, more preferably from 100 nm to 400 nm, even more preferably from 200 nm to 300 nm. The primary particle size can be determined using the ASTM Designation E20-85"Standard Practice for Particle Size Analysis of Particulate Substances in the Range from 0.2 to 75 Micrometers by Optical Microscopy", ASTM Volume 1402, 1993, incorporated herein by reference . The particles may have a variety of shapes, including spherical, spheroidal, elliptical, laminar, irregular, needle and rod type, with the proviso that the desired refractive index is provided. The particulate material can be in a variety of physical forms, including rutile, anatase, or a combination thereof.
A) Metallic Oxide The reflective particle material preferably comprises particles of inorganic material comprising TiO2, ZnO, ZrO2 and combinations thereof, more preferably TiO2, ZnO and combinations thereof (the combinations are designed to include particles comprising one or more of these materials, as well as mixtures of those particulate materials) and more preferably, the particles consist essentially of Ti? 2- The particulate material can be a mixed body, for example, deposited on a core or mixed with other materials such as , but not limited to, silica, silicone resin, mica, and nylon. Inorganic particulate materials, for example, comprising TiO2, ZnO or ZrO2 are commercially available from a number of sources. An example of a suitable particulate material comprises the material available from U.S. Cosmetics (TRONOX TiO2 series, SAT-T CR837, a rutile TiO2). The compositions may contain other inorganic or organic particulate materials. However, it is preferred that the particulate materials in the compositions of the invention consist essentially of the particulate material described in this section.
B) Coating Material The reflective particulate materials described hereinbefore are preferably coated with a coating material that confers a net charge that is larger than the zeta potential of the uncoated reflective particle material. Therefore, any coating material can be used insofar as the net charge (cationic or anionic) imparted to the reflective particle material is larger than the untreated reflective particle material. However, all particulate materials within a composition are preferably treated with the same net charge, for example, without mixing cationic and anionic coating materials, to benefit from the repulsive forces between the reflective particulate materials. It is understood to one skilled in the art, however, that small amounts of coating materials of opposite charges can be used, so long as the total repulsive forces are maintained. Non-limiting examples of coating materials that confer a cationic charge include cationic polymers (natural and / or synthetic) and cationic surfactants. The preferred cationic coating materials are selected from the group consisting of cytosan, hydroxypropylcyanate, quaternium-80, polyquaternium-7, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of coating materials that confer an anionic charge include anionic polymers (natural and / or synthetic) and anionic surfactants. Preferred anionic coating materials are selected from the group consisting of ammonium polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate, potassium polyacrylate, ethylene acrylic acid copolymer, hydrolyzed wheat protein polysiloxane copolymer, dimethicone phosphate copolyol, dimethicone acetate copolyol, laurate copolyol of dimethicone, dimethicone copolyol stearate, dimethicone behenate copolyol, dimethicone copolyol isostearate, dimethicone hydroxy stearate copolyol, phosphate ester, sodium chondroitone sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, ammonium hyaluronate, sodium alginate, ammonium alginate, laurate ammonium, sodium laurate, potassium laurate, ammonium myristate, sodium myristate, potassium myristate, ammonium palmitate, sodium palmitate, potassium palmitate, ammonium stearate, sodium stearate, potassium stearate, ammonium oleate , sodium oleate, potassium oleate, and mixtures thereof. The most preferred anionic coating materials are selected from the group consisting of ammonium polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate and mixtures thereof. The charged particulate materials (eg, treated with the coating material) are available in essentially pure form, powdered, or predispersed in various types of carriers, including but not limited to water, organic hydrophilic diluents such as lower monovalent alcohols (eg, C? -C4) and low molecular weight polyols and glycols, including propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (e.g. of molecular weight 200-600 g / mole), polypropylene glycol (for example of molecular weight 425-2025 g / mole), glycerol, butylene glycol, 1, 2,4-butanetriol, esters of sorbitol, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, isopropanol, sorbitol esters, butanediol, propanolic ether, ethoxylated ethers, propoxylated ethers and combinations thereof. Preferably, the charged particulate materials are predispersed in water, glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Examples of commercially available particulate charged materials include Kobo BG65CA (a predispersion of TiO2 treated with ammonium polyacrylate, butylene glycol, water, and ammonium zirconium carbonate), Kobo BG60DC (a predispersion of TiO2 treated with cytosan and butylene glycol), Kobo GLW75CA ( a predispersion of T02 treated with ammonium polyacrylate, water, glycerin, and zirconium ammonium carbonate), all available from Kobo Products Inc., located in South Plainfield, NJ.
IV. Optional Components The skin care compositions of the present invention essentially contain only the hydrophilic liquid carrier containing thickened particulate material. Preferably, however, the present compositions, and especially those in the form of emulsions, will also contain a hydrophobic component or phase which may contain a variety of hydrophobic materials.
A. Hydrophobic components The compositions according to the present invention, as emulsions, may contain a hydrophobic phase comprising a lipid, oil, or other hydrophobic oily component. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from 1% to 98%, preferably from 1% to 50%, and more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight of the composition of a hydrophobic component. The hydrophobic component can be derived from animals, plants, or petroleum and can be natural or synthetic (ie manufactured by man). The preferred hydrophobic components are substantially insoluble in water, more preferably essentially not soluble in water. Preferred hydrophobic components are those having a melting point of about 25 ° C or less under about one atmosphere of pressure. A wide variety of suitable hydrophobic components are known and can be used herein and numerous examples can be found in Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol. 32-43 (1972), incorporated herein by reference. Non-limiting examples of suitable hydrophobic components include those selected from the group consisting of: (i) Mineral oil which is also known as liquid petrolatum, which is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum. See The Merck Index, Tenth Edition, Entry 7048, p. 1033 (1983) and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, vol. 1 p. 415-417 (1993), which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
(I) Petrolatum which is also known as petroleum gel, is a colloidal system of non-straight chain solid hydrocarbons and liquid high-boiling hydrocarbons, in which the majority of liquid hydrocarbons are contained within the micelles . See The Merck Index, Tenth Edition, Entry 7047, p. 1033 (1983); Schindler, Druq. Cosmet. Ind., 89, 36-37, 76, 78-80, 82 (1961); and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, vol. 1 p. 537 (1993), which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. (iii) straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of these hydrocarbon materials include dodecane, sododecane, squalene, cholesterol, hydrogenated polybutyrene, docosane (ie, a hydrocarbon of C ^), hexadecane, isohexadecane (a commercially available hydrocarbon sold as Permethyl® 101 A by Presperse, South Plainfield, NJ). Also useful are C-C4o isoparaffins, which are branched C7-C4o hydrocarbons.
(V) C1-C30 alcohol esters of carboxylic acids of C ^ - Csn and dicarboxylic acids of Cy-Csri including straight and branched chain materials as well as aromatic derivatives (as used herein in reference to the hydrophobic component mono- and polycarboxylic acids include straight-chain arylcarboxylic acids, and branched chain.Non-limiting examples include diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, methyl palmitate, myristyl propionate, palmitate 2-ethylhexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, di-2-ethylhexyl maleate, cetyl palmitate, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, methyl stearate, cetyl stearate, behenyl behenate, dioctyl maleate, sebacate dioctyl, diisopropyl adipate, cetyl octanoate, diisopropyl dilinoleate. (v) Mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of carboxylic acids of C ^ -Cao, for example, caprylic / capric triglyceride, carprilic / capric PEG-6 triglyceride, caprylic / capric PEG-8 triglyceride. (vi) Alkylene glycol esters of carboxylic acids of C -C ^, for example mono- and di-esters of ethylene glycol, mono- and diesters of propylene glycol of carboxylic acids of C1-C30 eg ethylene glycol distearate. (vii) Propoxylated and ethoxylated derivatives of the aforementioned materials. (viii) CI-CSQ mono- and polyesters of sugars and related materials These ethers are derived from a sugar or polyol portion and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the acid and sugar constituent, these esters can be either liquid or solid at room temperature. Examples of liquid esters include: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated), mixed soybean oil fatty acid tetraesters, galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, tetraesters of arabinose of linoleic acid, tetralinoleate of xylose, pentaoleate of galactose, tretaoleate of sorbitol, hexesters of sorbitol of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, hexaoleate of sucrose, sucrose heptoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters include: sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid ester portions are palmitoleate and arachididate in a molar ratio of 1: 2; the octaester of raffinose in which the carboxylic acid ester portions are linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1: 3; the maltose heptaester in which the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are sunflower seed oil and lignocerate fatty acids in a molar ratio of 3: 4; the octaester of sucrose in which the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are oleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 2: 6; and the octaester of sucrose in which the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1: 3: 4. A preferred solid material is a sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid moieties are mono- and / or di-unsaturated of C-is and behenic, in a ratio molar of unsaturated: behenic from 1: 7 to 3: 5. A particularly preferred solid sugar polyester is the sucrose octaester in which there are approximately 7 portions of behenic fatty acid and about one portion of oleic acid in the molecule. Other materials include cottonseed oil or fatty acid esters of sucrose soybean oil. Ester materials are further described in the patents of E.U.A. No. 2,831, 854, U.S. Patent No. No. 4,005,196, to Jandacek, January 25, 1977; patent of E.U.A. No. 4,005,195 to Jandacek of January 25, 1977; patent of E.U.A. 5,306,516, to Letton et al, April 26, 1994; patent of E.U.A. No. 5,306,515, to Letton et al, April 26, 1994; patent of E.U.A. No. 5,305,514, to Letton et al, April 26, 1994; patent of E.U.A. No. 4,797,300, Jandacek et al, January 10, 1989; patent of E.U.A. No. 3,963,699, to Rizzi et al, June 15, 1976; patent of E.U.A. No. 4,518,772, to Volpenhein of May 21, 1985; and patent of E.U.A. No. 4,517,360, to Volpenhein of May 21, 1985; all of which are incorporated by reference to the present in its entirety. (ix) Polysiloxane organ oils. The organo polysiloxane oil may be volatile, non-volatile, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones. The "non-volatile" thermal as used in this context refers to those silicones that are liquid under ambient conditions and have a flash point (under atmospheric pressure) of greater than about 100 ° C. The term "volatile" as used in this context refers to all other silicone oils. Suitable polysiloxane bodies can be selected from a wide variety of silicones encompassing a wide range of volatilities and viscosities. Non-volatile polysiloxanes are preferred. Non-limiting examples of suitable silicones are described in the U.S.A. No. 5, 069,897, to Orr, December 3, 1991, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Examples of suitable organo polysiloxane oils include polyalkylsiloxanes, cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Polyalkylsiloxanes useful in the present compositions include polyalkylsiloxanes with viscosities of 0.5 to 1, 000,000 centistokes at 25 ° C. Said polyalkylsiloxanes can be represented by the general chemical formula R3SiO [R2SiO] xSiR3 in which R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl; also mixed alkyl groups can be used in the same molecule), and x is an integer from 0 to 10,000, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight which can be on the scale of up to 10,000,000. Commercially available polyalkylsiloxanes include the polydimethylsiloxanes, which are also known as dimethicones, examples of which include the Vicasil® series sold by the General Electric Company and the Dow Corning® 200 series sold by Dow Corning Corporation. Specific examples of suitable polydimethylsiloxanes include Dow Corning® 200 fluid having a viscosity of 0.65 centistokes and a boiling point of 100 ° C, Dow Corning® 225 fluid having a viscosity of 10 centistokes and a boiling point greater than 200 °. C, and Dow Corning® 200 fluids having viscosities of 50, 350, and 12,500 centistokes, respectively, and boiling points larger than 200 ° C. Suitable dimethicones include those represented by the chemical formula (CH3) 3SiO [(CH3) 2S0O]? [CH3RSiO] and Si (CH3) 3 in which R is a straight or branched alkyl chain having from 2 to 30 atoms carbon and x and y are each one of 1 or larger selected to achieve the desired molecular weight which may be on the scale of up to more than 10,000,000. Examples of those dimethicones substituted by alkyl include cetyl dimethicone and lauryl dimethicone. Suitable cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes for use in the composition include those represented by the chemical formula [SiR2-O] n in which R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and n is an integer from 3 to 8 , more preferably n is an integer from 3 to 7, and more preferably n is an integer from 4 to 6. When R is methyl, those materials are typically referred to as cyclomethicone. Commercially available cyclomethicones include Dow Corning® 244 fluid, which has a viscosity of 2.5 centistokes, and a boiling point of 172 ° C, which mainly contains the cyclomethicone tetramer (ie n = 4), Dow Corning® fluid 344 having a viscosity of 2.5 centistokes and a boiling point of 178 ° C, which mainly contains the pentamer of cyclomethicone (ie n = 5), Dow Coming®245 fluid having a viscosity of 4.2 centistokes and a point of boiling at 205 ° C, which mainly contains a mixture of the tetramer and pentamer of cyclomethicone (ie n = 4 and n = 5), and Dow Coming®345 fluid having a viscosity of 4.5 centistokes and a boiling point of 217 ° C, which contains mainly a mixture of the tetramer, pentamer and hexamer of cyclomethicone (ie n = 4, 5 and 6). Also useful are materials such as trimethylsiloxysilicate, which is a polymeric material corresponding to the general chemical formula [(CH2) 3SiO? / 2] x [SiO2] y, in which x is an integer from 1 to 500 e and is a whole from 1 to 500. A commercially available trimethylsiloxysilicate is sold as a mixture with dimethicone as Dow Coming®593 fluid. The dimethiconols are also suitable for use in the composition. These compounds can be represented by the chemical formulas R3S0O [R2SiO] xSiR2OH and HOR2SiO [R2SiO] xSiR2? H in which R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and x is an integer of 0 to 500, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight. Commercially available dimethiconols are typically sold as mixtures with dimethicone or cyclomethicone (eg, Dow Coming® 1401, 1402 and 1403 fluids). The polyalkylaryl siloxanes are also suitable for use in the composition. Polymethylphenylsiloxanes having viscosities of 15 to 65 centistokes at 25 ° C are especially useful. Preferred for use herein are the organopolysiloxanes selected from the group consisting of polyalkylsiloxanes, dimethicone substituted by alkyl, cyclomethicones, trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethiconols, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. More preferred for use herein are polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones. Preferred among the polyalkylsiloxanes are dimethicones. (x) Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils Examples of vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include sunflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, shad oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, colaza oil, flax oil, rice oil, pine oil, sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, oil of hydrogenated cottonseed, hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated peanut oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated colaza oil, hydrogenated flax seed oil, hydrogenated rice oil, hydrogenated sesame oil, hydrogenated sunflower seed oil and mixtures thereof. (xi) Oils and animal fats For example, lanolin and derivatives thereof, shark liver oil. (xii) Other materials C4-C20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycols, C1-C20 carboxylic acid esters of polypropylene glycols, and C8-C30 alkyl ethers are also useful. Non-limiting examples of these materials include butyl ether PPG-14, stearyl ether PPG-15, dioctyl ether, octyldodecyl ether and mixtures thereof.
B. Emulsion Compositions The compositions of the present invention containing hydrophobic components as described hereinbefore are frequently presented in the form of emulsions. The emulsions comprise a hydrophilic phase comprising the hydrophilic liquid carrier containing the thickened particulate material or other hydrophilic diluent, and a hydrophobic phase comprising a hydrophobic component eg, a lipid, oil or oily material. As is well known to one skilled in the art, the hydrophilic phase will be dispersed in the hydrophobic phase, or vice versa, to form dispersed and continuous hydrophilic or hydrophobic phases respectively, depending on the ingredients of the composition. In emulsion technology, the term "dispersed phase" is a well-known term for someone of skill in the art which means that the phase exists as small particles or droplets that are suspended in and surrounded by a continuous phase. The dispersed phase is also known as the internal or discontinuous phase. The emulsion can be or comprise (for example, in a triple-phase or multiple-phase emulsion) an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion as a water-in-silicone emulsion. Oil-in-water emulsions typically comprise from 1% to 50% (preferably from 1% to 30%) of the hydrophobic dispersed phase and from 1% to 98% (preferably from 40% to 90%) of the continuous hydrophilic phase; Water-in-oil emulsions typically comprise from 1% to 98% (preferably from 40% to 90%) of the dispersed hydrophilic phase and from 1% to 50% (preferably from 1% to 30%) of the hydrophobically continuous phase. The emulsion may also comprise a gel network as described in G.M. Eccleston, Application of Emulsion Stabilitv Theories to Mobile and Semisold O / W Emulsions, Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 101, November 1996, pp. 73-92, incorporated herein by reference. Preferred emulsions are described further below. Preferred emulsions have an apparent viscosity of 5,000 to 200,000 centipoise (cps). For example, preferred lotions have an apparent viscosity of 10,000 to 40,000 cps; Preferred creams have an apparent viscosity of 60,000 to 160,000 cps. The apparent viscosity can be determined using a Brookfield DVII RV viscometer, TC spindle, at 5 rpm, or the equivalent thereof. The viscosity is determined on the composition after the composition has been allowed to stabilize after its preparation, generally at least 24 hours under conditions of 25 ° C +/- 1 ° C and ambient pressure after preparation of the composition. The apparent viscosity is measured with the composition at a temperature of 25 ° C +/- 1 ° C, after 30 seconds of spindle rotation. The emulsion may contain an emulsifier and / or surfactant generally to help disperse and suspend the discontinuous phase within the continuous phase. A wide variety of such agents can be used. Known or conventional emulsifiers / surfactants can be used in the composition, with the proviso that the selected agent is chemically and physically compatible with the essential components of the composition, and provides the desired dispersion characteristics. Suitable agents include emulsifiers / surfactants that do not contain silicone, silicone emulsifiers / surfactants, and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the compositions herein comprise an emulsifier or hydrophilic surfactant. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from 0.05% to 5%, more preferably from 0.05% to 1%, of at least one hydrophilic surfactant. Undesired is limited by theory, it is believed that the hydrophilic surfactant helps to disperse hydrophobic materials, for example hydrophobic structuring agents, in the hydrophilic phase. The surfactant, as a minimum, must be sufficiently hydrophilic to disperse in the hydrophilic phase. Preferred surfactants are those having an HLB of at least 8. The exact surfactant chosen will depend on the pH of the composition and the other components present. The preferred hydrophilic surfactants are selected from nonionic surfactants. Among the nonionic surfactants which are useful herein are those which can be broadly defined as condensation products of long-chain alcohols, for example of C8-C30 alcohols, with sugar or starch polymers, ie, glycosides . These compounds can be represented by the formula (S) n-O-R in which S is a sugar portion such as glucose, fructose, mannose, and galactose; n is an integer from 1 to 1000, and R is a C8-C30 alkyl group. Examples of long-chain alcohols from which the alkyl group can be derived include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and the like. Preferred examples of such surfactants include those in which S is a glucose portion, R is an alkyl group of C8-20, and n is an integer from 1 to 9. Commercially available examples of such surfactants include decylpolyglucoside (available as APG) 325 CS from Henkel) and lauryl polyglucoside (available as APG 200 CS and 625 CS from Henkel). Other useful nonionic surfactants include the condensation products of alkylene oxides with fatty acids (ie, alkylene oxide esters of fatty acids). These materials have the general formula RCO (X) nOH in which R is an alkyl group of C10-30, X is -OCH2CH2- (ie derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or -OCH2CHCH3- (ie derivative at from propylene glycol or oxide), and n is an integer from 6 to 200. Other nonionic surfactants are the condensation products of alkylene oxides with two moles of fatty acids (i.e., alkylene oxide diesters of fatty acids). These materials have the general formula RCO (X) nOOCR in which R is an alkyl group of C10-30, X is -OCH2-CH2- (ie, derivative of ethylene glycol or oxide) or -OCH2CHCH3- (ie derived from propylene glycol or oxide), and n is an integer from 6 to 100. Other nonionic surfactants are the condensation products of alkylene oxides with fatty alcohols (ie alkylene oxide ethers of fatty alcohols). These materials have the general formula R (X) nOR 'in which R is an alkyl group of C10-30, X is -OCH2CH2- (ie derivative of ethylene glycol or oxide) or -OCH2CHCH3- (ie derivative of propylene glycol or oxide), and n is an integer from 6 to 100 and R 'is H or an alkyl group of C10-30. Still other nonionic surfactants are the condensation products of alkylene oxides with fatty acids and fatty alcohols [i.e. wherein the polyalkylene oxide moiety is esterified at one end with a fatty acid and esterified (i.e. Ether link) on the other end with a fatty alcohol]. These materials have the general formula RCO (X) nOR 'in which R and R' are C10-30 alkyl groups, X is -OCH2CH2 (ie derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or -OCH2CHCH3- (propylene glycol derivative or oxide) ), and n is an integer from 6 to 100. Non-limiting examples of those nonionic surfactants derived from alkylene oxide include ceteth-6, ceteth-10, ceteth-12, ceteareth-6, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-12, steareth-6, steareth-10, steareth-12, steareth-21, stearate of PEG-6, stearate of PEG-10, stearate of PEG-100, stearate of PEG-12, glyceryl stearate of PEG-20, glyceryl seboate PEG-80, PEG-10 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-200 glyceryl seboate, PEG-8 dilaurate, PEG-10 distearate, and mixtures thereof.
Still other useful nonionic surfactants include the polyhydroxy fatty acid amide surfactants corresponding to the structural formula: wherein: R 1 is H, C 1 -C 4 alkyl, 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl, preferably C 1 -C 4 alkyl, more preferably methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl; R 2 is C 5 -C 31 alkyl or alkenyl, preferably C -C 9 alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably C 9 -C 7 alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably C 11 -C 15 alkyl or alkenyl; and Z is a polyhydroxyhydrocarbyl moiety having a linear hydrocarbyl chain with at least 3 hydroxyls directly connected to the chain, or an alkoxylated derivative (preferably ethoxylated or propoxylated) thereof. Z is preferably a portion of sugar selected from the group consisting of glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, galactose, mannose, silose and mixtures thereof. An especially preferred surfactant corresponding to the above structure is coconut alkyl amide of N-methyl glucoside (ie, wherein the R2CO- portion is derived from fatty acids of coconut oil). Methods for making the compositions containing polyhydroxy fatty acid amides are described, for example, in Great Britain Patent Specification 809,060, February 18, 1959 by Thomas Hedley & Co., Ltd; patent of E.U.A. No. 2,965,576 to E.R. Wilson, December 20, 1960; patent of E.U.A. No. 2,703,798, to A.M. Schwartz, March 8, 1955; and patent of E.U.A. No. 1, 985,424, to Piggott, of December 25, 1934; which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Preferred among nonionic surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of steareth-21, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, sucrose cocoate, steareth-100, PEG-100 stearate, mixtures thereof. Other nonionic surfactants suitable for use herein include sugar esters and polyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, C 1 -C 30 fatty acid esters of C 1 -C 30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated esters of fatty acid esters of C1-C30 of C 1 -C 30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated ethers of C 1 -C 30 fatty acids, polyglyceryl esters of C 1 -C 30 fatty acids, esters of C 1 -C 30 polyols, ethers of C 1 -C 30 polyols, alkyl phosphates, ether polyalkylene fatty phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of such emulsifiers include polyethylene glycol sorbintan monolaurate 20 (Polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5 soy sterol, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, methyl glucose ether distearate PPG-2, Ceteth-10, Polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, dietalonamine cetyl phosphate, Polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, sorbitan polyoxyethylene triollate 20 (Polysorbate 85), sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene 4-lauryl ether sodium stearate, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate , hexyl laurate, ether distearate PPG-2 methyl glucose, stearate of PEG-100, and mixtures thereof. Another emulsifier useful herein are mixtures of fatty acid ester based on a mixture of sorbitan fatty acid ester or sorbitol and sucrose fatty acid ester, the fatty acid in each instance preferably being Cs-C24, more preferably C10- C2o- The preferred fatty acid ester emulsifier is a mixture of C16-C20 fatty acid ester of sorbitan or sorbitol with C10-C16 fatty acid ester of sucrose, especially sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate. This is commercially available from ICI under the tradename Arlatone 2121. The hydrophilic surfactants useful herein may alternatively or additionally include any of a wide variety of cationic, anionic, zwitterionic, and amphoteric surfactants as are known in the art. . See, for example, McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986) published by Allured Publishing Corporation; patent of E.U.A. No. 5,01 1, 681 of April 30, 1991; patent of E.U.A. 4,421, 769 A Dixon et al, December 20, 1983; and patent of E.U.A. No. 3,755,560 to Dickert et al, August 28, 1973; These four references are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Illustrative cationic surfactants useful herein include those described in the U.S.A. No. 5,151, 209, to McCall et al, September 29, 1992; patent of E.U.A. No. 5,151, 210 to Steuri et al, September 29, 1992; patent of E.U.A. No. 5,120,532 to Wells et al, June 9, 1992; patent of E.U.A. No. 4,387,090 to Bolich, June 7, 1983; patent of E.U.A. No. 3,155,591, Hilfer, November 3, 1964; patent of E.U.A. No. 3,929,678, to Laughiin at al, December 30, 1975; patent of E.U.A. No. 3,959,461, to Bailey et al, May 25, 1976; McCutcheon's, Detergents & Emulsifiers, (North American edition 1979) M.C. Publishing Co .; and Schwartz, et al., Surface Active Agents, Their Chemistry and Technology, New York: Interscience Publishers, 1949; all those documents are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Cationic surfactants useful herein include cationic ammonium salts such as quaternary ammonium salts, and amino-amides. A wide variety of anionic surfactants are useful herein as well. See, for example, US patent. No. 3,929,678, to Laughiin et al, December 30, 1975, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include the allyl isethionates (eg, C 2 -C 30), alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates and salts thereof, alkyl and alkyl ether phosphonates and salts thereof, alkyl methyl taurate (eg example C12-C30), and soaps (for example, alkali metal salts, for example sodium or potassium salts) of fatty acids. Amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants are also useful herein. Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants which can be used in the compositions of the present invention are those which are broadly described as derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical can be straight or branched chain and in which of the aliphatic substituents contains from 8 to 22 carbon atoms (preferably Cß-Cis) and one contains an anionic water solubilizing group, for example carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate. Examples are alkylimino acetates, and iminodialcoanato and aminoalkanoates, imidazolium and ammonium derivatives. Other amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of betaines, sultaines, hydroxysultaines, alkyl sarcosinates (eg, C12-C30) and alkanoyl sarcosinates. The emulsions of the present invention can include an emulsifier or surfactant that contains silicone. A wide variety of silicone emulsifiers are useful herein. These silicone emulsifiers are typically organopolysiloxane organically modified, also known to those skilled in the art as silicone surfactants. Useful silicone emulsifiers include dimethicone copolyols. These materials are polydimethylsiloxanes which have been modified to include polyether side chains such as polyethylene oxide chains, polypropylene oxide chains, mixtures of those chains, and polyether chains containing portions derived from ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. Other examples include modified alkyl dimethicone copolyols, ie, compounds containing pendant C2-C30 side chains. Still other useful dimethicone copolyols include materials having various pendant cationic, anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic moieties. The dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers useful herein can be described by the following general structure: wherein R is straight, branched, or cyclic C1-C30 alkyl and R2 is selected from the group consisting of ~ (CH2) n ~ O ~ (CH2CHR3O) m ~ H and - (CH2) nO- (CH2CHR3O) m- (CH2CHR4O) 0-H, in which n is an integer from 3 to 10; R3 and R4 are selected from the group consisting of H and straight or branched chain C1-C6 alkyl so that R3 and R4 are not simultaneously the same; ym, o, x, yy are selected so that the molecule has a total molecular weight of 200 to 10,000,000, with m, o, y, and independently being selected from integers of 0 or greater so that myo are not both simultaneously 0, and z being independently selected from integers of 1 or larger. It is recognized that the positional isomers of these copolyols can be achieved. The chemical representations described above for the portions of R2 containing the groups R3 and R4 do not mean that they are limiting, but that they are shown as such for convenience. Also useful herein, although not strictly classified as dimethicone copolyols, are the silicone surfactants as described in the structures in the above row in which R2 is: ~ (CH2) nO-R5, in which R5 it is a cationic, anionic, amphoteric, or zwitterionic portion. Non-limiting examples of dimethicone copolyols and other silicone surfactants useful as emulsifiers herein include polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant polyethylene oxide side chains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant polypropylene oxide side chains, copolymers of polydimethylsiloxane polyether with polyethylene oxide side chains and pendant mixed polypropylene oxide, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant mixed poly (ethylene) (propylene) oxide side chains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant organobetaine side chains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant carboxylate side chains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant quaternary ammonium side chains; and also other modifications of the foregoing copolymers containing straight, branched or cyclic alkyl portions of C2-C30. Examples of dimethicone copolyols commercially available or useful herein sold by the Dow Corning Corporation are Dow Corning® 190, 193, wax Q2-5220, 2501, fluid 2-5324, and 3225C (the latter material being sold as a mixture with cyclomethicone). The copolyol of cetyl dimethicone is commercially available as a mixture with polyglyceryl 4-isostiarate (and) hexyl laurate and sold under the trade name ABIL® WE-09 (available from Goldschmidt). The cetyl dimethicone copolyol is also commercially available as a mixture with hexyl (y) 3-polyglyceryl (y) cetyl dimethicone laurate and is sold under the tradename ABIL® WS-08 (also available from Goldschmidt). Other non-limiting examples of dimethicone copolyols also include lauryl dimethicone copolyol, dimethicone copolyol acetate, dimethicone copolyol adipate, dimethicone copolyol amine, dimethicone copolyol behenate, dimerticone copolyol butyl ether, dimethicone copolyol hydroxystearate, dimethicone copolyol isostearate, dimethicone copolyol laurate, dimethicone copolyol methyl ether, dimethicone copolyol phosphate and dimethicone copolyol stearate. See International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionarv, fifth edition, 1993, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. The dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers useful herein are described, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 4,960,764, to Figueroa, Jr. et al., Issued October 2, 1990; European Patent No. EP 330,369, to SaNogueira, published August 30, 1989; G.H. Dahms, et al., "New Formulation Possibilities Offered by Silicone Copoliols," Cosmetics & amp;.
; Toiletries, vol. 1 10, pp. 91-100, March 1995; ME. Carlotti et al., "Optimization of W / O-S Emulsions and Study of the Quantitative Relationships Between Ester Structure and Emulsion Properties," J. Dispersion Science And Technology, 13 (3), 315-336 (1992); P. Hameyer, "Comparative Technological Investigations of Organic and Organosilicone Emulsifiers in Cosmetic Water-in-Oil Emulsion Preparations," HAPPI 28 (4), pp. 88-128 (1991); J. Smid-Korbar et al., "Efficiency and usability of silicone surfactants in emulsions," Provisional Communication, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 12, 135-139 (1990); and D.G. Krzysik et al., "A New Silicone Emulsifier for Water-in-Oil Systems," Drug and Cosmetic Industry. vol. 146 (4) pp. 28-81 (April 1990); incorporated by reference herein in its entirety.
C. Optional functional ingredients The compositions herein may contain a wide variety of optional ingredients that carry out one or more functions useful in products of this type. Such optional components can be found in the thickened hydrophilic phase or the optional hydrophobic phases or in one or more additional phases of the compositions herein. Non-exclusive examples of such materials are described in Harry's Cosmeticology. 7th ed., Harry & Wilkinson (Hill Publishers, London 1982); in Pharmaceutical Dosage Forms- Disperse Systems; Lieberman, Rieger & Baker, Vols. 1 (1988) & 2 (1989); Marcel Decker, Inc .; in The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics, 2nd. Ed., DeNavarre (Van Nostrand 1962-1965); and in The Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, he was Ed .. Knowlton & Pearce (Elsevier 1993). Such ingredients include, but are not limited to, transparent particulates; skin conditioning agents such as emollients, humectants and humidifiers: skin cleansers; skin care assets such as vitamin B3 compounds, retinoids, antioxidants / radical scavengers, and organic hydroxylic acids; structuring agents; and other active ingredients including anti-inflammatory agents, sunscreens / sun blockers, chelators, peeling agents / exfoliants, and skin lightening agents. Each of said functional optional ingredients is described in detail below: 1. - Transparent particles: A safe and effective amount of a transparent particle can be added to the compositions of the subject invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, and more preferably from about 0.3% to about 2.5%. the transparent particles have a refractory index of less than about 2.0. These particles scatter light instead of reflecting light. Non-limiting examples include mica, silica, nylon, polyethylene, talc, styrene, polypropylene, ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, sericite, aluminum oxide, silicone resin, barium sulfate, calcium carbonate, cellulose acetate, polymethyl methacrylate , and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of commercially available clear particles include Kobo silica MSS-500; (ethylene / acrylic acid copolymers) Kobo EA-209 and M-102-Mica available from U.S Cosmetic Corp., located in Dayville, CT. Said transparent particles can also be treated with various treatments or made in a variety of mixtures to provide desired characteristics. A non-limiting example of a commercially available mixed clear particle is the Naturaleaf® powder (mixture of mica, barium sulfate and TiO2), available from EM Industries, located in Hawthorne, NY. 2. - Active skin care: In a preferred embodiment, the composition also includes an active useful for chronically regulating the condition of the skin. These materials are those that manifest the benefits of appearance of the skin following the chronic precaution of the composition containing these materials. Materials that have such an effect include, but are not limited to, vitamin B3 compounds and retinoids. Other types of skin care assets include antioxidants / radical scavengers and organic hydroxylic acids. Specific examples of skin care assets include the following. (i) Vitamin B3 compounds: In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention comprise a safe and effective amount of a vitamin B3 compound. The vitamin B3 compound promotes the skin appearance benefits of the present invention, especially the regulation of the condition of the skin, including the regulation signals of skin aging, more especially wrinkles, lines and pores. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about %, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10% and even more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 5% of the vitamin B3 compound. As used herein, "vitamin B3 compound" refers to a compound having the formula: wherein R is -CONH2 (for example, niacinamide), -COOH (for example, nicotinic acid) or -CH2OH (for example, nicotilinic alcohol); derivatives thereof and salts of any of the above Exemplary derivatives of the above vitamin B3 compounds include ethers of nicotinic acid, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinic amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, acid N-oxide nicotinic and niacinamide N-oxide. Suitable nicotinic acid esters include CrC22 nicotinic acid esters, preferably C-i-Ciß, more preferably Ci-Cß alcohols. The alcohols are suitably straight chain or branched chain, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including aromatic), and substituted or unsubstituted. The esters of preference are non-vasodilators. As used herein "non-vasodilators" refers to that the ester does not commonly produce a visible flow response after application to the skin of the subject compositions (the majority of the general population does not experience a visible flow response, although said compounds can cause vasodilatation not visible to the exposed eye, ie, the ester is not blinding). Non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate; the tocopherol nicotinate is preferred. Other derivatives of a vitamin B3 compound are niacinamide derivatives that result from the substitution of one or more of the amide group hydrogens. Non-limiting examples of niocinamide derivatives useful herein include nicotinyl amino acids, derived, for example, from the reaction of an activated nicotinic acid compound (e.g., nicotinic acid azide or nicotinyl chloride) with an amino acid, and esters of Nicotinyl alcohol of organic carboxylic acids (for example, C -? - C? 8). Specific examples of such derivatives include nicotinuric acid (C8H8N2O3) and nicotinylhydroxamic acid (C6H6N2? 2), which have the following chemical structures: nicotinuric acid: nicotinylhydroxamic acid: Exemplary nicotinyl alcohol esters include nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, palmitic acid, and the like. Other non-limiting examples of the vitamin B3 compounds useful herein are 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, n-methyl-nicotinamide, n, n-diethylnicotinamide, n- (hydroxymethyl) -nicotinamide, quinolinic acid, nicotinanilide, n-benzylnicotinamide, n-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldheido, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 1- (3-pyridylmethyl) urea, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol, and niaprazine. Examples of the above vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a number of sources, for example, Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and Aldrich Chemical (Milwaukee, Wl). One or more vitamin B3 compounds can be used herein. The compounds of vitamin B3 are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Niacinamide is the most preferred. When used, the salts, derivatives, and derivatives of niacinamide salts are preferably those which have substantially the same efficacy as niacinamide in the skin condition regulation methods described herein. The salts of the vitamin B compound are also useful herein. Non-limiting examples of salts of vitamin B3 compound useful herein include organic or inorganic salts, such as inorganic salts with anionic inorganic species (for example, chloride, bromide, iodide, carbonate, preferably chloride), and carboxylic acid salts (including salts of mono-, di- and tricarboxylic acid of C 1 -C 18, for example , acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, preferably salts of monocarboxylic acid such as acetate). These and other salts of the vitamin B3 compound can be easily prepared by the person skilled in the art, for example, as described by W. Wenner, "The Reaction of L-Ascorbic and D-losascorbic Acid with Nicotinic Acid and Its Amide" , J. Organic Chemistry, Vol. 14, 22-26 (1949), which is incorporated herein by reference, Wenner describes the synthesis of the ascorbic acid salt of niacinamide. In a preferred embodiment, the ring nitrogen of the vitamin B3 compound is chemically free in substantial form (eg unbound and / or unimpeded), or after the supply to the skin chemically becomes substantially free ("chemically free"). "hereinafter referred to alternatively as" without complex "). More preferably, the vitamin B3 compound is essentially without complex. Therefore, if the composition contains the vitamin B3 compound in a salt or other form with complex, said complex preferably is substantially reversible, more preferably essentially reversible, in the delivery of the composition to the skin. For example, said complex must be substantially reversible at a pH of about 5.0 to about 6.0. Said reversibility can be easily determined by one skilled in the art. More preferably the vitamin B3 compound is substantially free of complex in the composition prior to delivery to the skin. Exemplary approaches to minimize or avoid the formation of undesirable complexes include the omission of materials whose form is substantially irreversible or other complexes with the vitamin B3 compound, pH adjustment, ionic strength adjustment, the use of surfactants, and formulations in where the vitamin B3 compound and materials whose complex therein is in different phases. Such approaches are within the skill level of the person skilled in the art. Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the vitamin B3 compound contains a limited amount of the salt form and is more preferably free of salts in substantial form of a vitamin B3 compound. Preferably the vitamin B3 compound contains less than about 50% of said salt, and more preferably essentially free of the salt form. The vitamin B3 compound in the compositions herein has a pH of about 4 to about 7 which typically contains less than about 50% of the salt form. The vitamin B3 compound can be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by adequate physical and / or chemical isolation from natural sources (e.g., plants). The vitamin B3 compound is preferably substantially pure, more preferably essentially pure. (ii) Retinol In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention contain a retinoid. The retinoid promotes the skin appearance benefits of the present invention, especially in the regulation of skin condition, including regulation signals of skin aging, more especially wrinkles, lines and pores. As used herein, "retinoid" includes all natural and / or synthetic analogues of vitamin A compound or retinol-like which possess the biological activity of vitamin A in the skin as well as geometric isomers and stereoisomers of said compounds The retinoid is preferably retinol, retinolic esters (for example, C2-C22 retinoalkyl esters, including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate), retinal, and / or retinoic acid (including all trans and retinoic acid). or 13-cis-retinoic acid), more preferably retinoids other than retinoic acid. These compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a number of sources, for example, Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO), and Boerhinger Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN). Other retinoids that are useful herein are described in the U.S. Patents. Nos. 4,677,120, issued June 30, 1987 to Parish et al; 4,885,311, issued December 5, 1989 to Parish et al; 5,049,584, issued September 17, 1991 to Purcell et al; 5,124,356, issued June 23, 1992 to Purcell et al; and reissue 34,075, issued September 22, 1992 to Purcell et al. Other suitable retinoids are tocopheryl retinoate [tocopheryl ester of retinoic acid (trans or cis), adapalene. { 6- [3- (1-adamantyl) -4-methoxyphenyl] -2-naphtholic acid], and tazarotene (ethyl 6- [2- (4,4-dimethylthiochroman-6-yl) -etinyl] nicotinate ). One or more retinoids can be used herein. Preferred retinoids are retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinal and combinations thereof. Most preferred are retinol and retinyl palmitate.
The retinoid can be included as the substantially pure material, or an extract obtained by adequate physical and / or chemical isolation from natural sources (e.g., plants). The retinoid is preferably substantially pure, more preferably essentially pure. The compositions of this invention may contain a safe and effective amount of the retinoid, such that the resulting composition is safe and effective in regulating the condition of the skin, preferably to regulate visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the skin, more preferably to regulate the signs of skin aging, even more preferably to regulate the visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the skin texture associated with the aging of the skin. The compositions preferably contain from about 0.005% to about 2%, more preferably from 0.01% to about 2% retinoid. Retinol is most preferably used in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 0.15%; the retinol esters are more preferably used in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 2% (e.g., about 1%); the retinoic acids are more preferably used in an amount of about 0.1% around 0.25%; tocopheryl retinoate, adapalene, and tazarotene are most preferably used in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 2%. In a preferred embodiment, the composition contains a retinoid and a vitamin B3 compound. The retinoid is preferably used in the above amounts, and the vitamin B3 compound is preferably used in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 2% to about 5%. (iii) Antioxidants / radical scavengers Preferred compositions of the subject invention include an antioxidant / radical scavenger. The antioxidant / radical scavenger is especially useful to provide protection against UV radiation that can cause increased scaling or texture change in the stratum corneum and against other environmental agents that can cause skin damage. A safe and effective amount of an antioxidant / radical scavenger can be added to the subject compositions of the invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% of the composition. The antioxidants / radical scavengers such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its salts, ascorbic fatty acid esters, ascorbic acid derivatives (eg, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), tocopherol (vitamin E), sorbate can be used. of tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, other tocopherol esters, butylated hydroxybenzoic acids and their salts, 6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (commercially available under the name Trolox®), gallic acid and its alkyl esters, especially propylgalate, uric acid and its alkyl salts and esters, sorbic acid and its salts, amines (e.g., N, N-diethylhydroxylamine, amino guanidine), sulfhydryl compounds (e.g., gutationa), dihydroxyfenuic acid and its salts, licina pidolate, arginine pilolate, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, bioflavanoids, licina, methionine, proline, superoxide dismutase, silymarin, tea extract, grape / skin seed extract, melanin, and extracts of rosamarina. The preferred antioxidants / radical scavengers are selected from tocopherol sorbate and other tocopherol esters, more preferably tocopherol sorbate. For example, the use of tocopherol sorbate in topical compositions and applicable to the present invention is described in the U.S.A. No. 4,847,071, issued July 1, 1989 to Donal L. Bisset, Rodney D. Bush and Ranjit Chatterjee, incorporated herein by reference. (iv) Organic hydroxylic acids The compositions of the present invention may comprise an organic hydroxylic acid. Suitable hydroxyl acids include C?-C18 hydroxyl acids, preferably Ce or less. The hydroxylic acids can be substituted or unsubstituted, straight chain, branched chain or cyclic (preferably straight chain), and saturated or unsaturated (mono- or poly-unsaturated) (preferably saturated). Non-limiting examples of suitable hydroxylic acids include salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, 5-octanoylsalicylic acid, hydroxyoctanoic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, and lanolin fatty acids. The preferred concentrations of the organic hydroxyl acid scale are from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, also preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%. Salicylic acid is preferred. The organic hydroxylic acids drive the skin appearance benefits of the present invention. For example, organic hydroxylic acids tend to improve the texture of the skin. 3. Water-soluble skin conditioning component The preferred compositions of the invention may also comprise a water-soluble skin conditioning component comprising one or more water-soluble skin conditioning compounds. The conditioning component in water-soluble skin is useful to lubricate the skin, increase the softness and elasticity of the skin, avoiding or relieving dryness in the skin, hydrating the skin, and / or protecting the skin. The skin conditioning component drives improvements in the appearance of the skin of the present invention, including but not limited to, essentially immediate visual improvements in the appearance of the skin. The water-soluble skin conditioning component is preferably selected from the group consisting of humectants, humectants and mixtures thereof. The water-soluble skin conditioning component preferably is present at a level of at least about 0.1%, more preferably from about 1% to about 99.99%, even more preferably about 1% about 50%. %, even more preferably from about 2% to about 30% and more preferably from about 5% to about 25% (for example from about 5% to about 15%). Non-limiting examples of water-soluble conditioning compounds include those selected from the group consisting of polyhydric alcohols, propylene glycols, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, ureas, pyrollidone carboxylic acids, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated C3-C6 diols and triols, acids C2-C6 carboxylic acids of alpha-hydroxy, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated sugars, sugars having up to about 12 carbon atoms, sugar alcohols having up to about 12 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Specific examples of useful water-soluble conditioning agents include materials such as urea; guinidine; glycolic acid and glycolate salts (for example, ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); lactic acid and lactate salts (for example, ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); sucrose, fructose, erutrosa, erythritol, sorbitol, hydroxypropylsorbitol, mannitol, glycerol, hexane triol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, threitol, pentaerythritol, xylitol and the like; polyethylene glycols such as PEG-2, PEG-3, PEG-30, PEG-50, polypropylene glycols such as PPG-9, PPG-12, PPG-15, PPG-17, PPG-20, PPG-26, PPG-30, PPG-34; alkoxylated glucose; hyaluronic acid; and mixtures thereof. Also useful are materials such as aloe vera in any of its variety of forms (e.g., aloe vera gel); lactate monoethanolamine; acetamide monoethanolamine; panthenol; and mixtures thereof. Also useful are the ethoxylated glycerols and propoxylated glycerols as described in the US patent. 4,976,953, to Orr et al., Issued December 11, 1990, which is incorporated by reference herein in its entirety. 4. Structurant: The compositions herein, and especially the emulsions herein, may contain a structuring agent. Structuring agents are particularly preferred in the oil-in-water emulsions of the present invention. Without being limited by theory; it is believed that the structuring agent helps to provide biological characteristics to the composition that contribute to the stability of the composition. For example, the structuring agent tends to aid in the formation of the liquid crystal gel network structure. The structuring agent can also function as an emulsifier or surfactant. Preferred compositions of this invention comprise from about 1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 2% to about 9% of one or more structuring agents . Preferred structuring agents are those having an HLB of about 1 to about 8 and having a melting point of at least 45 ° C. Suitable structuring agents are those selected from the group consisting of saturated C 30 to C 30 fatty alcohols, C 1 to C 30 saturated fatty alcohols containing from about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, C 6 to 6 diols. C30 saturated, C- t to C30 monoglycerol saturated ethers, saturated C6 to C3o hydroxylic fatty acids, hydroxylated and non-hydroxylated saturated fatty acids from Cu to C30, saturated ethoxylated fatty acids from Cu to C3O, amines and alcohols containing from about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide diols, saturated glyceryl monoesters of Cu to C30 having a monoglyceride content of at least 40%, saturated polyglycerol esters of Cu to C30 having from about 1 to about 3 alkyl groups and from about 2 to about 3 units of glycerol saturated, glyceryl monoethers of Cu to C3o, mono / diesters of sorbitan of Cu to C30, mono / diesters of sorbitan ethoxyl saturates of Cu to C3o with about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, saturated methylglucoside esters of C to C30, saturated sucrose mono / diesters of C to C30, esters of saturated ethoxylated methylglucosides of Cu to C30 with about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, saturated Cu to C3o polyglucosides having an average of between 1 to 2 glucose units and mixtures thereof, having a melting point of at least about 45. ° C. Preferred structuring agents of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmitic acid, polyethylene glycol ether and distearyl alcohols having an average of about 1. to about 5 units of ethylene oxide, polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. The most preferred structuring agents of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol ether of silyl alcohol having an average of about 2 ethylene oxide units (steareth-2), the polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 2 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof. Even more preferred structuring agents are selected from the group consisting of stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, steareth-2 and mixtures thereof.
. - Anti-inflammatory agents A safe and effective amount of an anti-inflammatory agent may be added to the compositions of the subject invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% of the composition. The anti-inflammatory agent promotes the skin appearance benefits of the present invention, for example, said agents contribute with a more uniform and acceptable shade or color of the skin. The exact amount of anti-inflammatory agents to be used in the compositions will depend on the particular anti-inflammatory agent used, although said agents vary widely in potency. Steroidal anti-inflammatory agents may be used, including but not limited to corticosteroids such as hydrocortisone, hydroxyltriamcinolone, alpha-methyl dexamethasone, dexamethasone-phosphate, benclomethasone diproponate, clobetasol valerate, desonide, deoxymethasone, deoxycorticosterone acetate, dexamethasone, dichlorisone, diflorasone diacetate, diflucortolone valerate, fluadrenolone, fluclorolone acetonide, fludrocortisone, flumetasone pivalate, fluosinolone acetonide, fluocinonide, fluortain butyl esters, fluocortolone, fluprendnidene acetate (fluprendnilidene), flurandrenolone, halcinonide, hydrocortisone acetate, hydrocortisone butyrate , methylperidolone, triamcinolone acetonide, cortisone, shortdoxone, flucetonide, fludrocortisone, difluorosone diacetate, fluradrenolone, fludrocortisone, difluorosone diacetate, fluradrenolone acetonide, medrisone, amcinafel, amcinafide, betamethasone and the balance of their ester is, chloropredhandone, chlorpedantone acetate, clocortelone, clescinolone, dichlorisone, diflurlearnate, flucloronide, flunisolide, fluorometalone, fluperolone, fluprendnisone, hydrocortisone valerate, hydrocortisone cyclopentylpropionate, hydrocortamate, meprednisone, parametasone, prednisolone, prednisone, beclomethasone dipropionate, triamcinolone, and mixtures thereof. The preferred steroidal anti-inflammatory for its use is hydrocortisone. A second class of anti-inflammatory agents that is useful in the compositions includes non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents. The variety of compounds comprised by this group are well known to those skilled in the art. For a detailed description of the chemical structure, synthesis, side effects, etc., of steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, reference can be had to standard texts, including Anti-inflammatory and Anti-Rheumatic Druqs. KD Rainsford, Vol. I-MI, CRC Press, Boca Raton, (1985), and Anti-inflammatory Aqents, Chemistry and Pharmacology, IRA Scherrer, et al, Academic Press, New York (1974), each incorporated herein by reference. Specific nonsteroidal antiinflammatory agents useful in the composition of the invention include, but are not limited to: 1) oxicams, such as piroxicam, isoxicam, tenoxicam, sudoxicam, and CP-14,304; 2) salicylates, such as aspirin, dyscalcium, benorilate, trilisate, safaprin, solprine, diflunisal, and fendosal; 3) acetic acid derivatives, such as diclofenac, fenclofenac, indomethacin, sulindac, tometin, isoxepac, furofenac, thiopinac, zinometacin, acematacin, fentiazac, zomepirac, clindanac, oxepinac, felbinac, and ketorolac; 4) the fenamates, such as mefenamic, microphennamic, flufenamic, niflumic, and tolfenamic acids; 5) propionic acid derivatives, such as ibuprofen, naproxen, benoxaprofen, flurbiprofen, ketoprofen, fenoprofen, fenbufen, indoprophen, pirprofen, carprofen, oxaprozin, pranoprofen, minoprofen, thioxaprofen, suprofen, alminoprofen, and thiaprofenic; and 6) pyrazoles, such as phenylbutazone, oxyphenbutazone, feprazone, azapropazone, and trimetazone. Mixtures of the steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, as well as the pathologically acceptable salts and esters of said agents can also be employed. For example, etofenamtate, a flufenamic acid derivative, is particularly useful for topical application. Of the nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory agents, ibuprofen, naproxen, flufenamic acid, etofenamate, aspirin, mefenamic acid, diclofenamic acid, piroxicam and felbinac are preferred; ibuprofen, naproxen, etofenamate, aspirin and flufenamic acid are most preferred. Finally, so-called "natural" anti-inflammatory agents are useful in methods of the subject invention. Said agents can suitably be obtained as an extract by physical and / or chemical isolation from natural sources (eg, plants, fungi, by-products of microorganisms). For example, wax candelila, bisabolol alfa, aloe vera, Manjistha (extracted from plants in the genus Rubia, particularly Rubia Cordifolia), and Guggal (extracted from plants in the genus Commiphora, particularly Commiphora Mukul) can be used. extract of cola, chamomile, and coral extract in the form of a whip. Additional antiinflammatory agents useful herein include compounds from the licorice family (the genus / species plant Glycyrthiza glabra), including glycyrrhizic acid, glycyrrhizic acid, and derivatives thereof (e.g., salts and esters). Suitable salts of the above compounds include metal and ammonium salts. Suitable esters include C 2 -C 24 saturated or unsaturated esters of the acids, preferably C 1 or C 2, more preferably C β β C 24. Specific examples of the foregoing include oil-soluble licorice extract, the glycyrrhizic and glycyrrhizic acids themselves, monoammonium glycyrrhizinate, monopotassium glycyrrhizinate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 1-beta-glycyrrhetic acid, stearyl tilcirycinate, and 3-stearyl oxime acid. glycerritin, and 3-succinyloxy-beta-glycyrrhetynate disodium. Stearyl glycyrrheinate is preferred. 6. - Solar filters and solar blogidoresres Exposure to ultraviolet light can result in flaking and excessive textural changes of the corneal extract. Therefore, the compositions of the invention preferably have a sunscreen or sunscreen. The right sunscreens or sunscreens can be organic or inorganic. A wide variety of conventional sunscreen agents are suitable for use herein. Sagarin, et al., In Chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq., Of Cosmetics Science and Technology (1972), discloses numerous suitable agents, and is incorporated herein by reference. Examples of suitable sunscreen agents include, for example: p-aminobenzoic acid, its salts and its derivatives (ethyl, isobutyl, glyceryl esters, p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid); antanylates (e.g., o-amino-benzoates; methyl, menthyl, phenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, allylic, tervinyl and cyclohexenyl esters); salicylates (amyl, phenyl, octyl, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl, and di-pro-phenylglycolic esters); cinnamic acid derivatives (menthyl and benzyl esters, a-phenylcinnamonitrile, butylcinnamoyl pyruvate); dihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (umbelliferone, methylumbelliferone, methylaceto-umbelliferone); trihydroxy cinnamic acid derivatives (esculetin, methylesculetin, daphnetin, and the glucosides, esculin and daphine); hydrocarbons (diphenylbutadiene, stilbene); dibenzalacetone and benzalacetophenone; naphtholsulfonates (sodium salts of 2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acids and 2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acids); dihydroxynaphthoic acid and its salts; o- and p-hydroxybiphenyldisulfonates; coumarin derivatives (7-hydroxy, 7-methyl, 3-phenyl); diazoles (2-acetyl-3-bromoindazole, phenylbenzoxazole, methylnaphthoxazole, various arylbenzothiazoles); quinine salts (bisulfate, sulfate, chloride, oleate and tannate); quinoline derivatives (salts of 8-hydroxyquinoline, 2-phenylquinoline); hydroxy- or methoxy-substituted benzophenones; uric and voluric acids; tannic acid and its derivatives (for example, hexaethyl ether); (butylcarbotol) (6-propylpiperonyl) ether; hydroquinone; benzophenones (oxybenzene, sulisobenzone, dioxybenzone, benzoresorcinol, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, octabenzone; 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane; butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane; etocrylene; octocrylene; [3 -. (4'-metilbencildenboman-2-one) and 4-isopropyl-di-benzoylmethane of the above, preferred are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (commercially available as PARSOL MCX), 4,4'-t- butilmetoxidibenzoil-methane (commercially available as PARSOL 1789), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyl dimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, digaloiltriolato, 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl-4- (bis (hydroxypropyl)) aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, glyceryl p-aminobenzoate-, 3,3,5-tri-metilciclohexilsalicilato, methylanthranilate, p-dimethyl-aminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, 2 -ethylhexyl-p-dimethyl-amino-benzoate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2- (p-dimethylaminophenyl) -5-sulfonicbenzoxazoic acid, or tokylene and mixtures of said compounds. The most preferred organic sunscreens useful in the compositions useful in the subject invention are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, butilmetoxidibenzoil-methane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,-phenylbenzimidazole-5-2 sulfón¡co acid, octyl acid -p-aminobenzoic acid, octocrylene and mixtures thereof. Also particularly useful in the compositions are sunscreens such as those described in the U.S.A. No. 4,937,370 issued to Sabatelli on June 26, 1990, and patent of E.U.A. No. 4,999,186 issued to Sabatelli and Spirnak on March 12, 1991, which are incorporated herein by reference. Said sunscreen agents described herein have, in a single molecule, two distinct chromophore portions that show different absorption spectra of ultraviolet radiation. One of the chromophore portions is absorbed predominantly on the UVB radiation scale and the other is strongly absorbed on the UVA radiation scale.
Preferred members of said class of sunscreen agents are the 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid ester of 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone; N, N-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -4-aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane; 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane; 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester of 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone; 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester of 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane; N, N-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -4-aminobenzoic acid ester of 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone; and N, N-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -4-aminobenzoic acid ester of 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof. Especially preferred sunscreens or sunscreens include butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, and octocrylene. A safe and effective amount of sunscreen or sunscreen is used, typically from about 1% to about 20%, more typically from about 2% to about 10%. The exact amounts will vary depending on the sunscreen selected and the desired sun protection factor (SPF). An agent can also be added to any of the compositions useful in the subject invention to improve the substantivity of the skin of said compositions, particularly to boost its resistance to washing by water, or by rubbing. A preferred agent that will provide this benefit is a copolymer of ethylene and acrylic acid. The compositions comprising this copolymer are described in the U.S.A. 4,663,157, Brock, issued May 5, 1987, which is incorporated herein by reference. 7 '.- Chelators As used herein, "chelating agent" refers to an active agent capable of removing a metal ion from a system by forming a complex such that the metal ion can not be divided. easily or catalyze in chemical reactions. The inclusion of a chelating agent is especially useful to provide protection against UV radiation that can contribute to excessive scaling or changes in skin texture and against other environmental agents that can cause skin damage. A safe and effective amount of a chelating agent can be added to the compositions of the subject invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% of the composition. Exemplary chelators that are useful herein are described in the US patent. 5,487,884, issued 1/30/96 to Bissett et al .; International Publication No. 91/16035, Bush et al., Published 10/31/95; and International Publication No. 91/16034, Bush et al., published 10/31/95; which are incorporated herein by reference. Preferred chelators useful in the compositions of the subject invention are furildioxime and derivatives thereof. 8. - Peeling / Exfoliating Agents: A safe and effective amount of peeling agent can be added to the compositions of the subject invention, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably about 0.2% a about 5%, also preferably from about 0.5% to about 4% of the composition. Peeling agents promote the skin appearance benefits of the present invention. For example, desquamation agents tend to improve the texture of the skin (e.g., softness). A variety of desquamation agents are known in the art and are suitable for use herein, including but not limited to the organic hydroxy agents described above. A desquamation system that is suitable for use herein comprises sulfhydryl compounds and zwitterionic surfactants and is described in copending application no. series 08/480, 632, filed on June 7, 1995 in the name of Donald L. Bissett, corresponding to PCT application no. E.U.A. 95/08136, filed June 29, 1995, each incorporated herein by reference. Another desquamation system that is suitable for use in the present patent comprises salicylic acid and zwitterionic surfactant and is disclosed in co-pending patent application no. series 08 / 554,944, filed on November 13, 1995 as a continuation of serial number 08 / 209,401, filed on March 9, 1994 in the name of Bissett, corresponding to the PCT application no. 94/12743, filed on November 4, 1994, published May 18, 1995, each incorporated in the present patent by reference. Zwitterionic agents such as those described in these patents are also useful as peeling agents of the present invention, with cetylbetaine being particularly preferred. 9. Skin lightening agents The compositions of the present invention may comprise a skin lightening agent. When used, the compositions preferably comprise from about 0.1% to about 10%, most preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, also preferably from about 0.5% to about 2% of an agent to clarify the skin. Suitable skin lightening agents include those known in the art, including kojic acid, arbutin, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. Suitable skin lightening agents for use in the present invention also include those described in co-pending patent application no. series 08 / 479,935, filed on June 7, 1995 in the name of Hillebrand, corresponding to PCT application no. E.U.A. 95/07432, filed June 12, 1995; and the co-pending patent application with no. series 08 / 390,152, filed on February 24, 1995 in the name of Kalla L.
Kvalnes, Mitchell A. DeLong, Bailon J. Bradbury, Curtis B. Motley and John D. Carter, corresponding to PCT application no. E.U.A. 95/02809, filed on March 1, 1995, published on September 8, 1995; all incorporated herein by reference.
D. Product Forms As discussed herein above in the section entitled "Hydrophilic liquid vehicle", the type of carrier used in the present invention depends on the type of the desired form of the product with the composition. However, the product form must use at least one hydrophilic liquid phase or vehicle. Non-limiting examples of product forms in which the compositions of the present invention can be formulated include lotions and creams, cleansing compositions and makeup bases. These product forms are described in more detail below. As indicated, the topical compositions of the present invention, including but not limited to lotions and creams, may comprise a dermatologically acceptable hydrophobic component. Such compositions in this product form preferably contain from about 1% to about 50% of the hydrophobic component. A wide variety of suitable hydrophobic components are known and can be used herein. Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2a. edition, vol. 1, pp. 32-43 (1972), incorporated herein by reference, contains various examples of suitable materials as hydrophobic components. The lotions and creams according to the present invention generally comprise a vehicle system in solution and one or more hydrophobic components. Lotions typically comprise from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 10% hydrophobic component; and from about 50% to about 90%, preferably from about 60% to 80% water. A cream typically comprises from about 2% to about 50%, preferably from about 3% to about 20%, of a hydrophobic component; and from about 45% to about 85%, preferably from about 50% to about 75%, of water. The compositions of the present invention useful for cleaning ("cleansers") are formulated with a suitable vehicle, for example as described above, and preferably contain one or more dermatologically accepted surfactants in a safe and effective amount for cleaning. Preferred compositions contain from about 1% to about 90%, most preferably from about 5% to about 10%, of a dermatologically acceptable surfactant. The surfactant is suitably chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and ampholytic surfactants, as well as mixtures of such surfactants. Such surfactants are already known to those skilled in the detergent art. Non-limiting examples of possible surfactants include isoceteth-20, sodium methylcocoyltaurate, sodium methyloleoyltaurate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and betaines such as those described in the present invention. To obtain exemplary surface active agents useful herein see U.S. Pat. no. 4,800,197, Kowcz et al., Issued January 24, 1989, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety. Examples of a wide variety of additional surfactants that are used herein are described in McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety. The cleaning compositions optionally may contain, at the levels already established in the art, other materials that are conventionally used in cleaning compositions. The physical form of the cleansing compositions is not important, for example, the compositions may be formulated as liquids, shampoos, bath gels, pastes or foams. Preferred rinse-off cleansing compositions, such as shampoos, include a suitable assortment system for depositing sufficient levels of the active on the skin and scalp. A preferred assortment system involves the use of insoluble complexes. For a more complete description of such assortment systems see U.S. Pat. no. 4,835,148 to Barford et al., Issued May 30, 1989, incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. As used herein, the term "foundation for make-up" refers to a semi-liquid or semi-solid liquid cosmetic for the skin, including, but not limited to, lotions, creams, gels, pastes and the like. Typically the base is used over a large area of the skin, for example on the face, to provide a particular appearance. Foundation foundations are typically used to provide an adherent base for colored cosmetics, such as powders, blushes and the like and tend to hide skin imperfections and impart a smooth, even appearance to the skin. The makeup bases of the present invention include a dermatologically acceptable carrier for the essential particulate material and may include conventional ingredients such as oils, dyes, pigments, emollients, fragrances, waxes, stabilizers and the like. Exemplary vehicles and related different ingredients that are suitable for use herein are described, for example, in co-pending patent application no. series 08 / 430,961, filed April 28, 1995 under the names of Marcia L. Canter, Brain D. Barford and Brian D. Hofrichter, incorporated herein by reference.
V. Coverage efficiency ratio The compositions of the present invention have a coverage efficiency ratio of more than about 20, preferably more than about 25, most preferably more than about 30, and most preferably more than about 35. The coverage efficiency ratio is calculated as follows: Coverage index Coverage efficiency ratio =% by weight of the reflecting particulate material For example, a composition containing 0.4% loaded TiO2 and having a coverage index of 15 will give a coverage efficiency ratio of 37.5. The determination of the coverage index involves the measurement of the transmission of light through a collagen film. The light transmission readings of a control collagen film (for example, one without the applied product) are compared to the light transmission readings of a collagen film in which the product has been applied. The coverage index is subsequently calculated as indicated below: -. ,. ,. _. Average of control - Average of the test product _. , ". coverage index = -X 100 Control medium The coverage index methodology requires a sufficiently powerful light source to illuminate the sample, a fastener for the video frame and video camera to capture the image of the sample on the surface of collagen and a computer with video image software for the analysis of data and to observe on a video monitor. Adequate image capture and analysis software includes Optimus 5.2 of Optimus Corp. Washington (refer to the volume 1 image analysis software guide), the software and the guide are incorporated herein by reference. Less obvious differences in the data can be interpreted using the Fischer LSD method. In the examples from 1 to 3 a protocol is provided that describes the methods, procedures and establishments of the instruments to obtain the index of coverage.
SAW. Preparation of the compositions The compositions of the present invention can be prepared in general by conventional methods such as those already known in the art for the preparation of topical compositions. Such methods typically involve mixing the ingredients in one or more steps to a relatively uniform state, with or without heating, cooling, vacuum application, and the like. Typically one or more of the components described hereinabove can be mixed together with the charged particulate by conventional methods in any sequence. The resulting mixture is subsequently adjusted to the desired pH scale, from about 4 to about 8.5. Preferably, the components are first mixed together in any sequence. Subsequently the charged particulate material is added to the mixture after adjusting to the desired pH scale from about 4 to about 8.5.
SAW. Methods for regulating the condition of the skin The compositions of the present invention are useful for regulating the skin condition of mammals (especially human skin, specifically the skin of a human face), including visible and / or tactile discontinuities. in the skin, for example visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the texture of the skin, more specifically discontinuities associated with the aging of the skin. A large scale of amounts of the compositions of the present invention can be used to provide a benefit of sensation and / or appearance to the skin. The amounts of the present compositions that are typically applied per application are, in mg composition / cm2 of skin, from about 0.1 mg / cm2 to about 10 mg / cm2. A particularly useful application amount is about 2 mg / cm2. Typically applications are given in the order of once a day, however the frequency of application may vary from approximately once a week to approximately three times per day or more. The compositions of this invention provide a visible improvement in the condition of the skin essentially after application of the composition to the skin. Such immediate improvement involves covering or hiding imperfections of the skin such as texture discontinuities (including those associated with skin aging)., as large pores), and to provide a more uniform tone or color to the skin. In a preferred embodiment, the composition includes an active that chronically regulates the condition of the skin and chronically applied topically. "Topical chronic application" and the like involves the continued topical application of the composition over a long period over the life of the subject, preferably over a period of at least about one week, most preferably for a period of at least about one month, very much preferably at least about three months, much preferred even at least six months, and most preferred is at least one year. The chronic regulation of the condition of the skin involves the improvement of the condition of the skin after multiple topical applications of the composition to the skin. While the benefits can be obtained after various maximum periods of use (for example five, ten or twenty years), it is preferred that the chronic application continue throughout the life of the subject. Applications will typically be of the order of about once a day during such extended periods, however the frequency of application may vary from about once a week to three times a day or more. The regulation of the condition of the skin involves the topical application to the skin of a safe and effective amount of a composition of the present invention. The amount of the composition that is applied, the frequency of application and the period of use will vary greatly depending on the levels of the asset containing a given composition and the level of regulation desired, for example, in view of the level of aging of the composition. the skin present in the subject and the speed of aging of the skin. The regulation of the skin condition is preferably carried out by applying a composition in the form of a lotion, cream, cosmetic or the like for skin that has been created with the intention of being left on the skin until it is appropriate to cleanse the skin, for some esthetic, prophylactic, therapeutic or different benefit (for example, a composition that is not rinsed). After applying the composition to the skin, it is preferably left on the skin for a period of at least 15 minutes, most preferably at least about 30 minutes, very much preferably at least 1 hour, and very much preferably still by at least different hours, for example about 12 hours.
EXAMPLES The following examples best describe and demonstrate the embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are given solely for the purpose of illustration, and are not intended to be limiting of the present invention, since many variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. When applicable, the ingredients are given under the CTFA name.
EXAMPLES FROM 1 TO 3 Oil-in-water emulsions are prepared from the following ingredients using conventional formulation techniques. 1 A C1-C30 monoester or polyester of sugars, and one or more portions of carboxylic acid as described herein, preferably a sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is from 7 to 8, and in which the fatty acid portions are mono- and / or di-unsaturated C18 and behenic, at a molar ratio of unsaturated: behenic portions from 1: 7 to 3: 5, most preferably the octaester of sucrose, in which there are approximately 7 portions of behenic fatty acid and about 1 portion of oleic acid in the molecule, for example, sucrose ester of cottonseed oil fatty acids, for example, SEFA cotonate. 2 Available as Naturaleaf® powder from EM Industries, Inc. 3 A pre-dispersion of ammonium polyacrylate treated with T¡O2, water, glycerin and ammonium zirconium carbonate.
For examples 1 and 2 First, the ingredients of phase A are mixed (using a propellant-type mixer) in a suitable size container and heated to 70 to 75 ° C. In a separate container mix the ingredients of phase B and heat between 70 and 75 ° C. At said temperature, phase B is added to phase A while mixing continues. Subsequently, phase C is added to the batch mixture of phases A / B, continuing mixing. The component of phase C allows the neutralization of the mixture. In a separate vessel, phase D is mixed until uniform and then added to the batch mixture of A / B / C phases continuing with the mixture. It is cooled to 50 ° C. The ingredients of phase E are mixed until uniform and then added to the batch mixture of phases A-D continuing with the mixture. Subsequently, the ingredients of phase F are added to the mixture of A-E and it is continued cooling to approximately 35 ° C. The mixing continues until the resulting batch mixture is uniform.
For example 3 The previous steps for phases A-F are followed. Subsequently, when the batch mixture is cooled to about 35 ° C, the ingredients of phase G are mixed in a separate vessel and combined with the cooled batch mixture of phases A-F. Mixing is continued until the mixture of the resulting batch is uniform. The application of each composition obtained from the examples 1 to 3 to the facial skin of a subject in an amount of 2 mg of composition / cm2 of skin provides an immediate visual improvement in the appearance of the skin, for example, reduced visibility of the pores and a more uniform skin tone. The application of the composition on the face of a subject in the same amount once or twice daily for a period of 3 to 6 months improves the texture of the skin surface, including the diminution of fine lines and wrinkles, in addition to the essentially immediate improvements in appearance.
Coverage efficiency ratio The compositions resulting from examples 1 to 3 should provide a coverage efficiency ratio greater than about 20. The calculation of the values of the coverage efficiency ratio for the formulations of examples 1 to 3 and the comparative example are given below.
The compositions obtained from examples 1 to 3, containing the reflective filler material, all provide a coverage efficiency of more than about 20. The contrast, the composition obtained from the comparative example, which did not contain a reflective loaded material provides a coverage efficiency of less than about 20. The values of the coverage index of the compositions in the examples 1 to 3 were obtained by the following protocol: used a collagen film having an exposed surface area of approximately 7 cm2 (as IMS # 1 192 or the available equivalent of IMS Inc. Milford Ct.) mounted on a suitable fastener, 40 microliters was applied (using a Microman M50 pipette) ) of product and spread evenly with the hand on the surface of the film in a circular shape with the 10 fingers. Optionally the sample is mounted on a Zeiss SV-1 1 (or equivalent) microscope equipped with a 1X lens (the microscope is useful for enlarging the image that the camera is capturing; the effective amplification of this system is approximately micron / pixel). A mounting template can optionally be used to reposition the sample for multiple measurements. The SV-1 1 must be adjusted in such a way that a maximum amount of light is transmitted to the camera (for example a Sony 760-MD CCD 3 camera). To ensure proper positioning and a clear image, the equipment is adjusted as follows. The camera controls are set in such a way that the gamma and linear matrix switches are off. The programming of the camera control box is additionally defined as follows: Gain = 0, white / black balance in automatic, automatic iris, camera mode, detail position-12 o'clock, phase 0 degrees, position SC- 3 o'clock, H-12 o'clock, color temp-3200K, shut off. A warm-up time for the 15 minute camera should be left before adjusting the black and white balance. Press the button labeled "white" to adjust the white balance, and adjust the black balance by pulling the black adjustment rod and pressing the button that says "black". The computer cables are connected to the RGBI and Composite Sync ports on the camera.
The iris of the microscope is adjusted so that it is fully open and a frosted glass plate is placed on the base of the microscope to obtain a uniformly illuminated field. A clear glass plate can optionally be used to adjust the height of the sample. The Optimums 5.2 program opens on the computer. A sample cup is used, partially covered with black tape in the path of the light to adjust the gain and compensation (brightness). The reflecting mirror at the base of the microscope is adjusted to obtain maximum reflection within the microscope. The mean of the light source should be 245 to 254.5. The STD deviation must be less than 3. If the mean is outside the specifications, the alignment of the focus and the mirror must be verified. For control, an untreated piece of collagen film (such as IMS # 1 192 available from IMS Inc. Milford Ct.), Is mounted on a sample cup which is placed in the microscope such that the film is in the center of the path of light. The film is focused and the transmission of light through the film is measured using image capture and analysis software. Multiple measurements are taken from separate areas of the sample, by reattaching and refocusing the film for each measurement (seven or more measurements are taken). The mean of the histogram and the standard deviation are determined using the image capture and the analysis software. To measure the light transmission of the test product, a piece of collagen film having a surface area of about 7 cm2 is first hydrated, first with distilled water to ensure flexibility. Subsequently, 40 microliters of the test product is applied to the film (for example using a Microman M50 pipette or equivalent), and spread evenly over its surface to produce a uniform film coverage to the collagen surface (usually slightly dispersed over the surface). material by applying in a circular manner with the 10 fingers, using a latex finger cradle, clean). After waiting for a period of 5 minutes, the sample is mounted on the base of the microscope. Subsequently, measurements of light transmission are taken through the film and the product in the manner described for the control. Less obvious differences in the data can be interpreted using the Fischer LSD method. The coverage ratio is calculated as indicated below: t,. ,, Average control - Average of the test product ",, _, -. Index of coverage = - - -X 100 Average of control * Average control: the average reading of the light transmission of the untreated collagen film. * Average of test product: the average reading of light transmission for the collagen film treated.
EXAMPLES 4-7 Oil-in-water emulsions are prepared from the following ingredients using conventional formulation techniques. 1 A C1-C30 monoester or polyester of sugars, and one or more portions of carboxylic acid as described herein, preferably a sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is from 7 to 8, and in which the fatty acid portions are mono- and / or di-unsaturated C18 and behenic, at a molar ratio of unsaturated: behenic portions from 1: 7 to 3: 5, most preferably the octaester of sucrose, in which there are approximately 7 portions of behenic fatty acid and about 1 portion of oleic acid in the molecule, for example, sucrose ester of cottonseed oil fatty acids, for example, SEFA cotonate. 2 A pre-dispersion of ammonium polyacrylate treated with TiO2, water, glycerin and ammonium zirconium carbonate. 3 A previous dispersion of chitosan treated with TiO2 in butylene glycol. The compositions in Examples 4 to 7 are prepared in the manner described for Examples 1 to 3. Each composition obtained from Examples 5-7 is applied to the skin of the face of a subject in an amount of 2 mg of composition / cm2 of skin to provide an essentially immediate visual improvement in the appearance of the skin, for example, a reduced visibility of the pores and a more uniform skin tone. By applying the composition to the face of a subject in the same amount once or twice a day, for a period of 3 to 6 months, the texture of the skin surface is improved, including the diminution of fine s and wrinkles, in addition to the essentially immediate improvements in the appearance of the skin.
EXAMPLES 8-9 Oil-in-water emulsions are prepared from the following ingredients using conventional formulation techniques. 1 A C1-C30 monoester or polyester of sugars, and one or more portions of carboxylic acid as described herein, preferably a sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is from 7 to 8, and in which the fatty acid portions are mono- and / or di-unsaturated C18 and behenic, at a molar ratio of unsaturated: behenic portions from 1: 7 to 3: 5, most preferably the octaester of sucrose, in which there are approximately 7 portions of behenic fatty acid and about 1 portion of oleic acid in the molecule, for example, sucrose ester of cottonseed oil fatty acids, for example, SEFA cotonate. 2 A pre-dispersion of ammonium polyacrylate treated with T¡O2, water, glycerin and ammonium zirconium carbonate. 3 A mixture of polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7. First, mix the ingredients of phase A (using a propellant type mixer) in a suitable sized container and heat between 70 and 75 ° C. In a separate vessel mix the ingredients of phase B and heat from 70 to 75 ° C. At this temperature, the ingredients of phase B are added to phase A, continuing the mixing. Subsequently phase C is added. In a separate vessel, phase D is mixed until it is uniform and then phase D is added to the batch mixture of phases A / B / C while continuing mixing. The batch mixture of phases A-D is cooled to 60 ° C while mixing is continued. Subsequently phase E is added and the batch mixture of phases A-E is cooled to 50 ° C. In a separate vessel, mix the ingredients of phase F until they are uniform, and then add to the batch mixture of phases A-E continuing mixing. Subsequently the ingredient of phase G is added to the batch and it is continued cooling to 35 ° C. The resulting compositions of examples 8 and 9 have a coverage efficiency ratio of 46.5 and 47.6 respectively. The coverage index is obtained by the following protocol, already indicated in examples 1 to 3.
The application to the skin of the compositions obtained from examples 8 and 9 to the skin of a subject's face in an amount of 2 mg / cm2 of skin provides an essentially immediate visual improvement in the appearance of the skin, by example, a reduced visibility of the pores and a more uniform skin tone. By applying the composition to the face of a subject in the same amount once or twice a day, for a period of 3 to 6 months, the texture of the skin surface is improved, including the diminution of fine lines and wrinkles, in addition to the essentially immediate improvements in the appearance of the skin.
EXAMPLE 10 A thickened gel is prepared from the following ingredients using conventional formulation techniques. 1 A pre-dispersion of ammonium polyacrylate treated with TiO2, water, glycerin and ammonium zirconium carbonate. In a container of suitable size, mix the ingredients of phase A (using a propellant-type mixer) and heat between 70 and 75 ° C, add the ingredients from phase B to phase A and continue mixing. In a separate vessel, phase C is mixed until uniform and then phase C is added to the batch mixture of phases A / B while continuing mixing. It is cooled to 50 ° C. In a separate vessel the ingredients of phase D are mixed until the mixture is uniform and subsequently added to the batch mixture of phases A-C continuing mixing. Subsequently, it is cooled to 35 ° C. The application of the composition obtained in Example 10 to the skin of the face of a subject in an amount of 2 mg of composition / cm2 of skin provides an immediate visual improvement in the appearance of the skin, for example, a reduced visibility of the pores and a more uniform skin tone. The application of the composition on the face of a subject in the same amount once or twice daily for a period of 3 to 6 months improves the texture of the skin surface, including the diminution of fine lines and wrinkles, in addition to the essentially immediate improvements in the appearance of the skin. Although particular embodiments of the present invention have been described, it will be obvious to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications to the present invention can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is intended to cover, in the appended claims, all modifications that are within the scope of the present invention.

Claims (20)

NOVELTY OF THE INVENTION CLAIMS
1. - A composition for skin care that when applied topically to the skin provides an immediate visual improvement of the appearance of the skin, which comprises: (a) from 1% to about 99.98% by weight of the composition of a vehicle hydrophilic liquid; (b) from 0.01% to about 10% by weight of the composition of a polymeric thickening agent for said hydrophilic liquid vehicle; and (c) from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of the composition of a reflective particulate material with charge having a net primary particle size of about 100 nm to 300 nm, said charged particulate is dispersed in said thickened hydrophilic liquid carrier, wherein said composition provides a ratio of coverage efficiency greater than about 20.
The composition according to claim 1, further characterized in that said composition comprises from about 0.05% to about 1.5. % of said reflective particulate material with charge, from about 0.1% to about 5% of said polymeric thickener agent and further characterized in that said coverage efficiency ratio is greater than about 25.
3.- The composition according to the claim 1, further characterized in that said reflective particulate material with charge comprises a metal oxide, said metal oxide being coated with a coating material that confers a net charge that is greater than the zeta potential of said uncoated metal oxide.
4. The composition according to claim 3, further characterized in that said metal oxide is selected from the group consisting of Ti02, .ZnO, Zr02, and combinations thereof.
5. The composition according to claim 4, further characterized in that said metal oxide consists essentially of TiO2.
6. The composition according to claim 3, further characterized in that said coating material is selected from the group consisting of chitosan, hydroxypropylchitosan, quatemium-80, polyquaternium-7, and mixtures thereof.
7. The composition according to claim 3, further characterized said coating material is selected from the group consisting of ammonium polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate, potassium polyacrylate, ethylene acrylic acid copolymer, hydrolysed wheat protein polysiloxane copilimer. , dimethicone copolyol phosphate, dimethicone copolyol acetate, dimethicone copolyol laurate, dimethicone copolyol stearate, dimethicone copolyolhehenate, dimethicone isostearate copolyol, dimethicone copolyol hydroxystearate, phosphate ester, sodium condoitronsulfate, sodium hyaluronate, ammonium hyaluronate, sodium algeny , ammonium algeny, ammonium laurate, sodium laurate, potassium laurate, ammonium myristate, sodium myristate, potassium myristate, ammonium palmitate, sodium palmitate, potassium palmitate, ammonium stearate, sodium stearate, stearate of potassium, ammonium oleate, sodium oleate, potassium oleate, and those of them.
8- The composition according to claim 7, further characterized said coating material is selected from the group consisting of ammonium polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
9. The composition according to claim 1, further characterized in that said polymeric thickener is selected from the group consisting of carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, crosslinked acrylates / polymers of C alqu-alkyl acrylate. -C30, interlinked alkyl vinyl ethers and copolymers of maleic anhydride, poly (N-vinylpyrrolidones), crosslinked, polysaccharides and mixtures thereof.
10. The composition according to claim 9, further characterized in that the polymeric thickening agent is selected from the group consisting of carboxylic acid polymers, polyacrylamide acrylates / interlaced polymers of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, and mixtures of same.
11. The composition according to claim 1, further characterized in that it comprises from about 1% to about 98% by weight of the composition a hydrophobic phase.
12. The composition according to claim 11, further characterized in that the composition comprises a continuous hydrophilic phase and a hydrophobic phase dispersed in the hydrophilic phase.
13. The composition according to claim 11, further characterized in that the composition comprises a continuous hydrophobic phase and a hydrophilic phase dispersed in the hydrophobic phase.
14. The composition according to claim 11, further characterized in that the composition comprises one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of emulsifiers, surfactants, structuring agents, active skin care, and combinations thereof.
15. The composition according to claim 14, further characterized in that (a) said emulsifier or surfactant is selected from the group consisting of emulsifiers and nonionic, hydrophilic surfactants containing an HLB of at least about 8; (b) said structuring agent has an HLB of about 1 to about 8 and a melting point of at least about 45 ° C; and (c) said skin care active is selected from the group consisting of vitamin B3 compounds, retinoids, antioxidants, and mixtures thereof.
16. The composition according to claim 15, further characterized in that it comprises from 0.05% to about 5% of the emulsifier or surfactant; from about 1% to about 20% of the structuring agent; and from about 0.0001% to about 20% of the active for skin care.
17. The composition according to claim 15, further characterized in that the nonionic surfactant comprises a compound selected from the group consisting of steareth-21, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, sucrose cocoate, steareth-100, stearate of PEG-100, and mixtures thereof.
18. The composition according to claim 15, further characterized in that the structuring agent is selected from the group consisting of saturated fatty alcohols of C to C30, saturated fatty alcohols of C-? 6 to C30 containing about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, C 6 to C 30 saturated diols, C to C 3 to saturated monoglyceryl ethers, C to C 30 saturated hydroxy fatty acids, hydroxylated and non-hydroxylated saturated fatty acids of Cu to C 30, fatty acids saturated ethoxylates of Cu to C30, amines and alcohols containing from about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide diols, saturated glyceryl monoesters of Cu to C3O with a monoglyceride content of at least 14%, polyglycerol esters of C to C30, which have from about 1 to about 3 alkyl groups and from about 2 to about 3 units of glycerol saturated, glyceryl monoethers from Cu to C30, mono / diesters of sorbitan from Cu to C30, mono / diam you are from ethoxylated sorbitan, saturated from Cu to C30 that has from about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, saturated methylglucoside esters from C to C30, saturated sucrose mono / diesters from Cu to C 0, saturated methyl glucoside esters ethoxylates from Cu to C30 having from about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, saturated Cu to C30 polyglucosides having an average of 1 to 2 glucose units and mixtures thereof.
19. The composition according to claim 15, further characterized in that the said skin care active (s) is selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, retinol, retinal, retinylpalmitate, retinylpropionate, ascorbic acid, tocopherol, and derivatives and mixtures thereof. 20. The composition according to claim 1, further characterized in that it has an apparent viscosity, in centipoises, of about 5000 to about 20,000, and wherein said composition has a final pH of about 4 to about 8.5. 21. The composition according to claim 1, further characterized in that it comprises a transparent particulate material selected from the group consisting of mica., mica treated with barium sulfate and TiO2, silica, nylon, polyethylene, talc, styrene, polypropylene, ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, sericite, aluminum oxide, silicone resin, barium sulfate, calcium carbonate, cellulose acetate , polymethyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof. 22. A composition for the care of the skin that when applied topically on the skin provides an immediate visual improvement of the appearance of the skin, which is in the form of an emulsion of oil in water or water in oil, and said composition comprises: (A) a hydrophilic phase comprising: (i) from about 1% to about 98.98% by weight of the composition, of a hydrophilic liquid carrier; (ii) about 0.01% about 10% by weight of the composition, of a polymeric thickener for said hydrophilic liquid vehicle; and (iii) from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of the composition, of a reflective particulate material with charge having a net primary average particle size of about 100 nm to about 300 nm, said material in charged particles is dispersed in said thickened hydrophilic liquid carrier, which comps: a) a metal oxide material; and b) a coating material for said metal oxide material, said coating material imparts a net anionic or cationic charge to said metal oxide material which is greater than the net charge of the uncoated metal oxide material; and (B) from about 1% to about 98% by weight of the composition of a hydrophobic phase. 23. A method for preparing an aesthetically satisfactory composition of topical application to provide conditioning to the skin and an immediate visual improvement of the appearance of the skin, compng the steps of A) mixing, in any order, (1) up close from 1% to about 98%, by weight of the composition, a hydrophilic vehicle; (2) to about 0.01% to about 20% by weight of the composition of a polymeric thickener of said hydrophilic vehicle; (3) from about 1% to about 98% by weight of the composition of a hydrophobic phase; and (4) from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of the composition, of a charged particulate material having an average, primary, net particle size of about 100 nm to about 300 nm, said material of charged particle being dispersed in said thickened hydrophilic phase, and (b) adjusting the pH of the mixture of (a) to a pH of about 4 to about 8.5, wherein said composition provides a coverage efficiency ratio of more closely 20.
20. A method for regulating the condition of the skin compng the topical application of the composition according to claim 1. 25.- The method according to claim 24 wherein the regulation of the condition of the skin includes covering the imperfections in 0. lajs? surface of the skin. _ ,Y
MXPA/A/2000/004531A 1997-11-10 2000-05-10 Skin care compositions and method of improving skin appearance MXPA00004531A (en)

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