MXPA99008293A - Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising a sulphonated polyester and a silicon compound - Google Patents

Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising a sulphonated polyester and a silicon compound

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Publication number
MXPA99008293A
MXPA99008293A MXPA/A/1999/008293A MX9908293A MXPA99008293A MX PA99008293 A MXPA99008293 A MX PA99008293A MX 9908293 A MX9908293 A MX 9908293A MX PA99008293 A MXPA99008293 A MX PA99008293A
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Mexico
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units
formula
composition
composition according
weight
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MXPA/A/1999/008293A
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Spanish (es)
Inventor
De La Poterie Valerie
Ferrari Veronique
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L'oreal
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Publication of MXPA99008293A publication Critical patent/MXPA99008293A/en

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Abstract

The subject of the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in an aqueous phase: i) a water-soluble or water-dispersible terephthalic copolyester oligomer comprising essentially repeating dicarboxylate units of formula (I): [- CO-ACO-O- (CH2-CH20 ) n- in which - A represents a 1,4-phenylene, 1,3-sulfophenylene group, - n ranges from 1 to 4, - at least 35% by mole of said units of formula (I) being units of formula (I) for which A represents a 1,4-phenylene group and n is equal to 1, with at least 7% by mole of the said units of formula (I) units of formula (I) for which A represents a 1,3-sulfo phenylene group, the molecular weight by weight of said co-polyester oligomer of less than 20,000, ð) being at least one silicone compound in emulsion in the aqueous phase. This composition is destined for the makeup of keratin materials

Description

AQUEOUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SULPHONATED POLYESTER AND A SILICONE COMPOUND FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a novel non-transferable, water-resistant topically applied smoke composition, comprising a particular hydrophilic gelling agent of the sulfonated polyester type and a silicone compound, intended in particular for cosmetic and / or cosmetic fields. dermatological. The invention also relates to the use of this composition for the make-up or cosmetic treatment of keratin materials of the human being such as the skin, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, or mucous membranes such as the lips. This composition may be in the form of a gel, a paste or a molten product, in particular a bar.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Make-up or treatment products of the skin or lips such as foundation or lip-red make-ups contain generally fatty phases such as waxes and oils, pigments and / or fillers and, eventually, additives as cosmetic or dermatological active agents. They may contain gelling agents that make it possible to obtain the desired consistency for the composition according to its application.
Brief Description of the Invention These compositions, when applied to the skin or lips, have the drawback of transferring, that is to say deposited at least in part, leaving marks, on some supports with which they can be put in contact, and particularly a glass, a cup, a cigarette, a garment or the skin. A mediocre persistence of the applied film occurs, needing to regularly renew the application of the composition of background or red lipstick makeup. In addition, the appearance of these unacceptable marks, particularly in blouse collars, can divert some women from the use of this type of makeup. It is known from patent applications EP-A-602905 and JP-A-6165809 make-up compositions called "non-transfer" comprising volatile oils, particularly volatile silicone oils and / or volatile hydrocarbon oils. However, these compositions are often uncomfortable to wear (feeling of tightness and drying) mainly on the lips and lead to a matte make-up. It has also been proposed in the application EP-A-775483 compositions for the lips containing an aqueous dispersion of polymer. Although these compositions lead to films having good properties without transfer, these films unfortunately have the drawback of being uncomfortable over time. In addition, these films are often difficult to remove make-up with the make-up removers usually used.
Description of the Invention The purpose of the present invention is to propose an aqueous smoke composition which does not have the aforementioned drawbacks and which have particularly properties of no total transfer, gloss, lack of tightness during and after application over Keratin materials, and make it easy to remove make-up. The inventors have discovered that a composition of this kind could be obtained by using a particular hydrophilic gelling agent of sulfonated polyester type and a silicone compound in aqueous emulsion. A composition is then obtained which leaves after the application a film having a good gloss and a good behavior, which does not transfer anything. The film is particularly non-adhesive and comfortable (without tightness) during and after the application of the composition on the keratinic materials. The film also produces a feeling of freshness and is easy to remove make-up with the make-up removers usually used. In addition, the composition is easily applied on keratin materials. However, it is known by the request FR-A-2760642, published on 09/18/1998, a fumed composition containing a sulfonated terephthalic copolyester ether and 2% by weight of an aminosilicone in aqueous emulsion.
The subject of the present invention is therefore a new topically applied smoke composition comprising, in an aqueous phase, a hydrophilic gelling agent of the sulphonated polyester type, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is a water-soluble or water-dispersible terephthalic copolyester terephthalic oligomer and because the The composition also comprises at least one silicone compound in emulsion in the aqueous phase. The particular gelling agents used according to the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible terephthalic copolyester terephthalic oligomers comprising essentially repeating dicarboxylate units of formula (I): [-CO-A-CO-O- (CH2-CH20) "-] (I) wherein - A represents a 1,4-phenylene, 1,3-sulfophenylene and optionally 1,3-phenylene group, n ranges from 1 to 4, with at least 35% by mole of the said units of formula (I) ) for which A represents a 1,4-phenylene group and n is equal to at least 7% by mole of the said units of formula (I) units for which A represents a 1,3-sulfophenylene group, the molecular mass by weight of the indicated oligomers. less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000. Preferably, at least 40% by mole, and more preferably between 40 and 90% by mole of the units of formula (I) are units for which A represents a 1,4-phenylene group and n is equal to 1. Preferably, at least 10% by mole, more preferably between 10% and 25% by mole of the units of formula (I) are units for which A represents a 1,3-sulfophenylene group. The ends of the chains of the said copolyester oligomers can be similar or different and essentially represented by the groups of formula (I '): -CO-A-CO-O- (CH2-CH20) "-H (I ') in which A and n are as defined ant eri orment e. The indicated oligomers can also have, at the ends of the chain, and in a smaller amount, groups of formulas -A-CO-OH -A-CO-OR formulas in which A is as defined above and R represents a C1-C4 alkyl group. When A represents a 1,3-sulfophenylene group, it is more particularly an alkali metal sulphonate, in particular sodium or potassium sulfonate, or an ammonium sulfonate or mono-, di-, tri- or tetra-lower alkylammonium sulphonate. . By lower alkylammonium is meant preferably an ammonium of which the alkyl radical (s) are lower alkyls, preferably Ci-Cβ. Preferably, it is a sodium sulfonate. The copolyester oligomer may optionally comprise up to 20 mol%, preferably from 0.5 to 5 mol% of units of formula (I) for which A represents a 1,3-phenylene group. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the copolyester oligomer indicated above has a molecular weight by weight ranging from 5 000 to 14 000, and more preferably from 8 000 to 10 000. Molecular masses by weight are measured by chromatography by gel permeation in dimethylacetamide containing 10 ~ 2 N LiBr, a 100 ° C. The results are expressed in polystyrene equivalents. The said copolyester oligomers can be obtained by the usual methods of preparing the polyesters by casting, via solvent or interfacial, processes that produce diacid and diols esterification reactions and polycondensation. of transesterification of diesters and diols and polycondensation. of self-condensation of hydroxy acids. of Schotten-Baumann for the use of diols and acid chlorides and polycondensation. of polymerization of lactones controlling the minimum content of units of formula (I) for which A represents a 1,4-phenylene group and n is equal to 1, similar to the initial stoichiometric ratios of the different monomers and to the control of the reactions high schools. A particularly interesting preparation method is that of transesterification / polycondensation and / or esterification / polycondensation via melting with the aid of a transesterification and / or esterification catalyst. The domain of the structure is obtained by controlling the minimum content of units of formula (I) for which A represents a group 1, 4-phenylene and n is equal to 1, similar by the initial stoichiometric ratios of the different diacid and / or diester monomers and diol and by the use of an etherification limiting agent, limiting agent which may be a basic compound such as amines aliphatic or aromatic or an alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxide or acetate.
The control of the molecular mass is obtained in a manner known to the person skilled in the art, by means of the appropriate compromise between pressure, temperature and time. The terephthalic copolyester oligomers used according to the invention can be prepared by esterification and / or transesterification / polycondensation of a monomer composition based on: - anhydride or diester terephthalic acid (Tp) - of anhydride or diester sulfoisophthalic acid (SIp) - possibly of acid, anhydride or diester isophthalic (Ip) - and of ethylene glycol (EG) according to relative amounts corresponding to * a molar ratio (SIp) / [(Tp) + (SIp) ) + (Ip) J of at least 7/100, preferably of at least 10/100, very particularly of 10/100 to 25/100 * a molar ratio (Ip) / [(Tp) + (SIp) + ( Ip)] of 20/100 maximum, preferably 5/100 maximum. * a molar ratio (EG) / [(Tp) + (SIp) + (Ip)] from 2/1 to 3/1. in the presence of an esterification and / or transesterification catalyst and an etherification limiter. The terephthalic monomer (Tp) is preferably used in the form of a lower diester (dialkyl dialkyl diester), preferably dimethyl. The sulphoisophthalic monomer (SIp) is preferably used in the form of an alkali metal (mainly sodium) sulphonate of lower diester (C 1 -C 4 alkyl), preferably methyl. Particular mention may be made of dimethyl sodium-5-oxysulfonyl isophthalate. The optional isophthalic monomer (ÍP) is preferably used in the form of isophthalic acid. When all the "diacid" monomers are used in the form of a diester, the transesterification (exchange) operation between these "diacid" monomers and the ethylene glycol is carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 130 ° C, preferably of the order of 140 to 220 ° C and very particularly in the order of 180 to 220 ° C; at this temperature the methanol (preferred case of the methyl disterate) formed is removed from the reaction medium preferably by distillation. This exchange operation is carried out in the presence of a metal transesterification catalyst and an etherification limiter. The said catalyst is preferably a metal carboxylate, such as manganese acetate, zinc acetate, cobalt acetate or calcium acetate, or of an organic or mineral titanate, such as butyl titanate, titanate. of 2,2 ', 2"- triethyl nitrile (or titanium aminotrietanolate which also plays the role of etherification limiter) or calcium titanate The preferred catalysts are organic titanates, used in amounts of the order of at least one 0.001% by weight expressing in titanium, preferably in the order of 0.002% to 0.02% by weight of titanium relative to the weight of reagents present The etherification limiting agent can be a basic compound such as aliphatic or aromatic amines ( triethanolamine, guanidine carbonate, dimethylaniline, naphthylamine ...) or an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxide or acetate (sodium acetate, potassium, sodium benzoate ...). of the order of 0.001% to 0.05% in relation to the weight of reagents present. The duration of the exchange operation is from 1 to 4 hours; it is generally of the order of 2 to 3 hours. When more than 90% of the theoretical amount of methanol has been distilled, the remaining polyol is removed by bringing the temperature of the reaction medium to 230 ° C. The polycondensation operation is preferably carried out at a temperature of the order of 230 to 280 ° C, preferably of the order of 240 to 260 ° C, in another reactor previously brought to this temperature and progressively placed under vacuum to a pressure that can reach up to lOPa; a pressure reduction of up to approximately 10 millibars lasts in the order of 40 minutes. The polycondensation operation is carried out with removal of polyol molecules, this operation is stopped when the torque of the stirring shaft indicates a value equivalent to approximately 0.5 to 5 meters. Newton for a temperature of 250 ° C of the reaction mass and a stirring speed of 80 revolutions / minute of an anchor mobile in a 7.5 liter reactor. The vacuum is then broken with nitrogen, and the polymer is poured into an ingot mold; after cooling, the polymer is crushed. When one of the "diacid" monomers is present in the form of a diacid or anhydride and the one or more is in the form of a diester (s), the indicated copolyester oligomers are obtained by first performing a transesterification operation of the diester monomers with ethylene glycol in the conditions described above, followed by an esterification operation in the medium of the diacid or anhydride monomer with ethylene glycol, then polycondensation under the conditions described above, the total amount of ethylene glycol being divided between the two operations (transesterification and esterification). If necessary, the esterification operation is carried out by adding to the reaction medium resulting from the transesterification operation, the monomer in the form of diacid or anhydride and ethylene glycol previously suspended, at a temperature corresponding to that of the end of the exchange temperature; the introduction time is of the order of 1 hour. This esterification operation is carried out at a temperature of the order of 230 to 280 ° C, preferably of the order of 250 to 260 ° C, in the presence of a catalyst of the same type as that of transesterification and of an etherification limiting agent. . The operation is carried out in the presence of the same types of catalyst and etherification limiter as those used during the transesterification operation, and this in the same proportions. The reaction is carried out with the elimination of water that is transferred from the reactor at the same time as the excess polyol. This type of preparation process is particularly described in patent application WO 95/32997. The terephthalic copolyester oligomer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Depending on the shape sought, gelled, pasty or solid, different amounts of particular gellant will be used. For a solid composition, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight of particular gelling agent, more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, will be used. For a gelled or pasty composition, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight of particular gellant, more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, will be used. The silicone compound present in the composition according to the invention is in the form of an aqueous emulsion, also called a silicone emulsion. By aqueous emulsion, it is meant an oil-in-water type emulsion in which the silicone compound is dispersed in the form of particles or droplets in the aqueous phase which forms the continuous phase of the emulsion. This emulsion can be stabilized by a usual emulsifier system. This silicone emulsion can have a size of droplets or silicone particles having from 10 nm to 50 μm, and preferably from 10 nm to 1000 nm. It can also be in the form of a microemulsion, with a size of silicon droplets of the order of 10 to 80 nm. Silicone microemulsions are stable emulsions of colloidal particles and are generally transparent. The silicone compounds in emulsion are preferably polyorganosiloxanes, which can be in the form of volatile or non-volatile silicone oil, gums, resins, pasty products, or waxes, or mixtures thereof. These silicone compounds are generally easily emulsifiable in an aqueous medium with the aid of surfactants commonly used with these silicone compounds, such as the (alkyl) dimethicones copolyols or the surfactants mentioned in EP-A-678015. The gums, waxes and silicone resins can be mixed with silicone oils in which they can be solubilized, the mixture being in the form of an emulsion in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention. In a general way, the silicone compounds are preferably polymers containing repeating units of formula (II): RnSÍO (-n) / 2 • The substituents R present in these repeating units are organic groups, and can be identical or different. In addition, the same compound may contain different repeating units. The repetitive units corresponding to n = 2 correspond to a compound having a linear or cyclic structure whose chain is constituted by siloxane bonds. In the case of a linear polymer, units corresponding to n = 3 constitute the terminal groups. In addition, the silicone compounds may contain crosslinking units interspersed between the repeating units. These crosslinking units correspond to the formula (II) indicated above with n = 1 or n = 0. The repetitive units for which n = 4 correspond to a cross-linked polymer whose terminal groups can be units for which n = 1; 2 or 3. The R groups of the formula (II) may particularly represent alkyl, alkenyl, cycloalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl or hydroxyl groups, and may further comprise functional groups such as ethers, carboxy amines, hydroxyls, thiols, esters, sulfonates , sulfates. The alkyl groups have, for example, from 1 to 50 carbon atoms; the cycloalkyl groups have, for example, 5 or 6 carbon atoms; aryl groups are particularly phenyl groups, alkenyl groups have in particular from 2 to 10 carbon atoms; the alkylaryl groups may have from 7 to 20 carbon atoms. In the case of terminal groups corresponding to n = 3, one of the R groups linked to the terminal silicon may also represent another group, such as an OH group. Among the silicone compounds which can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of the non-volatile silicones, selected in particular from polyorganosiloxanes and in particular polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polyethersiloxane copolymers, organomodified or not, gums, pasty products, waxes and resins of silicones, polysiloxanes modified by organofunctional groups as well as their mixtures. They are chosen more particularly among the polyalkylsiloxanes, among which the linear polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl end groups having a viscosity of 10 ~ 5 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C, preferably of 1.10"1 m 2 / s, may be mentioned. 25 ° C, and particularly the following commercial products: - SILBIONE oils of series 47 to 7047 marketed by RHONE POULENC such as, for example, 47V500000 oil, - oils of the DOW CORNING 200 series - GENERAL VISCASIL oils ELECTRIC, certain oils of the SF series (SF96, SF18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC, it is also possible to mention linear polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups such as the oils from the 48 series of RHONE POULENC. ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polyalkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes Among the polyalkylaryl siloxanes, there may be mentioned polydimeti lmethylphenylsiloxanes and the linear or branched polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of 1.10 -5 5.10 ~ 2 m2 / s at 25 ° C, and in particular the following commercial products: - SILBIONE oils of series 70641 or 70633 V 30 of RHONE POULENC - oils of the series RHODORSIL 70633 and 763 of RHONE POULENC, - the oil DC 556 Fluid or SF 558 of DOW CORNING, the silicones of the PK series of BAYER as the product PK20, - the silicones of the PN and PH series of BAYER as products PN1000 and PH1000, some oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF1023, SF1154, SF1250 and SF 1265, - oils ABIL AV 8853 from GOLDSCHMIDT. The silicone gums which can be used according to the present invention are, in particular, polydiorganosiloxanes having high molecular weights, preferably between 200,000 and 1,000,000. They can be used alone or as a mixture in a solvent that can be chosen from volatile silicones., polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane or mixtures thereof. Mention may be made more particularly of the following products: polydimethylsiloxane / methylalvinylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethexysiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums. Mixtures such as mixtures formed from a hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane at the end of the chain (dimethiconol according to CTFA) and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (cyclomethicone according to CTFA) such as product Q2-1401 sold by the company may be used in particular. DOW CORNING Company, mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone oil such as the product SF1214 from GENERAL ELECTRIC (which is a mixture of dimethicone gum with a molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane). mixtures of two PDMS of different viscosities, particularly of a PDMS gum and of a PDMS oil, such as the product SF1236 of the Company GENERAL ELECTRIC (which is a 15% mixture of dimethicone gum with a molecular weight of 500,000, a viscosity of 20 m2 / s and 85% of SF96 oil with a viscosity of 5.10-6 m2 / s As silicone waxes, those described in documents FR-A-2688134 and EP-A-81137 can be cited. The organopolysiloxanes which can be used according to the invention are in particular cross-linked siloxane systems, which include the units R2SiO, RSi03 / 2 and SiO2 Among these compounds, the most particularly preferred products are those in which R denotes a Ci-C36 alkyl or phenyl. , we can mention the product sold under the name DOW CORNING 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS4230 and SS4267 by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC and which are of the dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane type. organomodified compounds are silicone compounds as defined above, which also include in their structure one or more organofunctional groups directly attached to the siloxane chain or fixed by means of a hydrocarbon radical. Mention may be made, for example, of silicones comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising alkyl groups such as: dimethicones copolyols and in particular those sold by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC1248, the alkyl (di) methicone copolyols and in particular the alkyl (Ci2) methicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2-5200.
- SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 oils from the UNION CARBIDE Company. - aminated groups, possibly substituted, such as the products sold under the name GP4 Silicone Fluid and GP7100 by the GENESEE Company or the products sold under the names Q2-8220 and DC929 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are in particular C 1 -C 4 aminoalkyl groups. thiol groups as in GP 72 A and GP 71 of GENESEE - carboxylate groups as in the products described in EP 186 507 of the CHISSO CORPORATION Company alkoxylated groups, as the products sold under the name Silicone copolymer F-755 by SWS SILICONES , or ABIL WAX 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT - hydroxylated groups, such as the hydroxyalkyl functional polyorganosiloxanes particularly described in the French patent application 85FR-163 34 acyloxyalkyl groups, such as for example the polyorganosiloxanes described in the French patent application 88FR-17433. These compounds can be prepared by esterification of hydroxyalkyl functional polyorganosiloxanes. carboxylic anionic groups such as the alkylcarboxyl groups; 2-hydroxy alkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate, - fluorinated groups.
Among the silicone compounds which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may also be made of volatile silicones, which generally have a boiling point between 60 ° C and 260 ° C and a viscosity of less than 10"5 m2 / s. , and in particular: cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, and preferably from 4 to 6 silicon atoms such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta siloxane and mixtures thereof Cyclocopolymers such as dimethylsilyl ano / methylalkylsiloxane, and in particular the volatile silicone FZ 3109 sold by the UNION CARBIDE Company, mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-derived compounds such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl pentaerythritol (50/50) can also be cited. the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and 1,1'-oxybis- (2,2,2 ', 2 / 3,3'-hexa trimethylsilyloxy) neopentane. - linear volatile silicones having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and a viscosity less than or equal to 10-5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) such as hexamethyldisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, or dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and those cited 'in EP-A-811372. Silicones that fall into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetic and Toiletries, Vol 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32 entitled "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics." The aqueous emulsion of silicone compounds can easily be prepared by the person skilled in the art, based on his general knowledge. Among commercially available aqueous silicone emulsions, mention may be made of: - polydimethylsiloxane emulsions (SM2162 from General Electric), - emulsions of stearyl dimethylone (SLM23032 from Wacker), microemulsions of amodimethicone (Microemulsion 781827 from Rhéne-Poulenc), cationic microemulsions of polydimethylsiloxane with aminoethylaminopropyl groups (DC939 from Dow Corning), microemulsions of polydimethylsiloxane (SILTECH MFF) 5015-70 from Siltech or DC2-1281 from Dow Corning), - cationic emulsions of polydimethylsiloxane amines (BELSIL ADM 6057 E Wacker) emulsions of phenylated polydimethylsiloxanes (MIRASIL DPDM-E from Rhéne Poulenc) - Alkylated polydimethylsiloxane emulsions (SILRES M50E from Wacker). The silicone compounds can be present in the composition at the ratio of 0, 1% to 30% by weight of dry matter of silicone compound, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably in a proportion of 2% to 10% by weight. In particular, the composition according to the invention only contains 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of aminosilicone. On the other hand, the composition according to the invention may contain adjuvants commonly used in cosmetic compositions, particularly topical ones. Examples of dyes, pigments, pearlescents, anti-UV agents, preservatives, thickening agents, plasticizing agents, surfactants, waxes, oils, perfumes, agents can be mentioned as examples of adjuvants. pH modifiers, moisturizing agents. Of course, the person skilled in the art will try to choose this or these possible adjuvants, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially, altered by the considered addition. The composition according to the invention can be used for the makeup, care or non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of keratin and / or mucosal materials. The composition of make-up can be a product of make-up of the lips, particularly in the form of paste or bar, a foundation in the background, an eye or cheek makeup, a mask for the eyelashes or the hair, a profiler, an anti-aging - Dark circles, or else a makeup composition of the body. The cosmetic treatment or care composition can be a composition for the treatment of the face, neck, hands, body, nails or lips, a deodorant composition or also sun protection. The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for the cosmetic treatment or make-up of keratin and / or mucosal materials consisting of applying a composition on the keratin and / or mucosal surfaces as described above. Another subject of the invention is the use of a terephthalic copolyester oligomer and a silicone compound in aqueous dispersion, as defined above, in a cosmetic or dermatological composition to reduce or even suppress the transfer of the film of this deposited composition onto keratin materials and / or mucous membranes and / or to suppress the deposit of marks on another support other than those indicated keratin materials and / or those indicated mucous. The subject of the invention is also the use of a terephthalic copolyester oligomer and a silicone compound in aqueous dispersion as defined above in a cosmetic or dermatological composition for obtaining a film of this water-resistant and / or fresh-resistant composition and / or comfortable. The subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above for obtaining a film of this glossy and / or fresh and / or comfortable composition and / or with non-transfer properties. Some examples illustrating the present invention without limiting it, however, will be given below.
EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of a tereolico-copolyester ether oligomer. In a 7.5 liter stainless steel reactor, equipped with an anchor stirrer that rotates at 80 rev / min connected with a KYOWA torque meter, with a double cover for the circulation of a heat transfer fluid and a distillation column regulated by a solenoid valve were: 11.47 moles of dimethyl terephthalate 2.53 moles of sodium 5-dimethylsophthalate sulfonate - 39.16 moles of ethylene glycol 54 ppm by weight of titanium, in the form of titanium aminotrietanolate as catalyst and etherification limiting agent. The mixture was preheated to 180 ° C.
It was then brought to the temperature of 220 ° C in approximately 130 minutes, to distill more than 90% of the theoretical amount of methanol. The reaction mixture was then brought to 230 ° C in 30 minutes. When the reaction mass has reached this temperature, a suspension is introduced in 60 minutes, always at 230 ° C, whose composition is as follows: -0.5 moles of isophthalic acid -2.36 moles of terephthalic acid 8 moles of ethylene glycol The reaction mass was then brought to a temperature of 250 ° C in 60 minutes. During the time of introduction of the mixture and during the heating time up to 250 ° C, a mixture of water and ethylene glycol is distilled without degradation. The reaction mixture is then transferred to an autoclave preheated to 250 ° C then placed under reduced pressure of 100 mbar in 22 minutes. After 2 minutes under these conditions of temperature and pressure, the reaction mass is poured and allowed to cool. The copolyester obtained has the structural characteristics described in table 1 given below, in which: * "% molar of the diacid units" corresponds to the content, in%, of each diacid or diester used in relation to the set of diacids or diesters used.
"Tp" means: telephonic unit "Ip" means: isophtalic unit "SIp" means: sulfoisoftálica unit The characteristics of the "glycol" part of the copolyesters are obtained by methanolysis of the products at 190 ° C for 16 hours followed by an analysis by the technique of vapor phase chromatography and dosing by internal contrast. molar of the diols' units corresponds to the content in%, of the oxyethylene units "G", of the di (oxyethylene) "2G" units, of the tri (oxyethylene) units "3G" and of the tetra (oxyethylene) units "4G", in relation to the set of diole units. * "% GT / S units" corresponds to the mole% of the units of formula (I) [-CO-A-CO-0- (CH2-CH20) n-] (I) where A is 1,4 phenyl and n = l in relation to the set of units of formula (I) where A is 1, 4-phenylene, 1,3-sulfo phenylene and optionally 1,3-phenylene and n equals 1 to 4"% GT / S units" is calculated by the following formula: % GT / S units = (% molar of units Tp) x (% molar of units G) / 100 * The molar mass of the polyesters (Mw) was determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) in the DMac / 100% LiBr, the results are given in polystyrene equivalents.
Example 2: A lipstick in the form of a bar was prepared with the following composition: - terephthalic copolyester ether oligomer of example 1 20% - emulsion of alkylated polydimethylsiloxane at 50% dry matter (SILERS M50E from Wacker) 5% MA - pigments 5% - propylene glycol 2.5% - water csp 100% An easy-to-apply lip color was obtained, which allows obtaining a totally bright and perfectly "non-transfer" film.
Example 3: A red bar was prepared in the form of a bar with the following composition: - terephthalic copolyester ether oligomer of Example 1 20% - emulsion of polydimethylsiloxane aminated to 35% of dry matter (BELSIL ADM 6057E of Wacker) 10% MA - pigments 5% - propylene glycol 2.5% - water csp 100% A red lip was obtained that allows the obtaining of a film "without transfer" totally and perfectly bright Example 4: A profiler was prepared in the form of a gel with the following composition: - terephthalic copolyester ether oligomer of Example 1 10% - 50% phenylaceted polydimethylsiloxane emulsion of dry matter (MIRASIL DPDM-E from Rhóne-Poulenc) 4% MA - pigments (black) 3% - propylene glycol 1.5% - water csp 100% A red lip was obtained that allows the obtaining of a film "without transfer" totally and perfectly bright It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is that which is clear from the present description of the invention. Having described the invention as above, property is claimed as contained in the following:

Claims (27)

R E I V I N D I C A C I O N S
1. Topical fuming composition comprising, in an aqueous phase, a sulfonated polyester-type hydrophilic gelling agent, characterized in that: i) the sulfonated polyester-type hydrophilic gelling agent is a water-soluble or water-dispersible terephthalic copolyester terephthalic oligomer comprising essentially repeating dicarboxylate units of formula (I): [-CO-A-CO-O- (CH2-CH20) n-] (I) wherein - A represents a 1,4-phenylene, 1,3-sulfophenylene and optionally 1,3-phenylene group, n ranges from 1 to 4, with at least 35% by mole of the said units of formula (I) ) units of formula (I) for which A represents a 1,4-phenylene group and n is equal to 1, with at least 7% by mole of the said units of formula (I) units of formula (I) for which A represents a 1,3-sulfo phenylene group, and optionally up to 20 mol%, preferably up to 0.5% to 5 mol% of units of formula (I) for which A represents a group 1 , 3-phenylene, and the molecular weight by weight of said copolyester oligomer being below 20 000, ii) and in that the composition also comprises at least one silicone compound in emulsion in the aqueous phase, the composition not containing 2% by weight , relative to the total weight of the aminosilicone composition.
Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the copolyester oligomer has a molecular mass by weight of less than 15 000.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the copolyester terephthalic oligomer has a molecular mass by weight ranging between 5,000 and 14,000, and better still between 8,000 and 10,000.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the terephthalic copolyester ether comprises at least 40 mol% said units of formula (I) for which A represents a 1,4-phenylene group and n is equal to 1.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the copolyester terephthalic oligomer comprises a 40 to 90% by mole of the indicated units of formula (I) for which A represents a 1,4-phenylene group and n is equal to 1.
6. Composition according to any It was from the previous claims, characterized in that the terephthalic copolyester ether comprises at least 10 mol% of the units of formula (I) for which A represents a 1,3-sulfo phenylene group.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the copolyester terephthalic oligomer comprises from 10% to 25% by mole of the said units of formula (I) for which A represents a group 1, 3-phenylene sulphide.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the copolyester terephthalic oligomer comprises up to 20% by mole, and preferably between 0.5% and 5% by mole, of units of formula ( I) for which A represents a 1,3-phenylene group.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the terephthalic copolyester oligomer is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the foregoing claims in solid form, characterized in that the copolyester terephthalic oligomer is present in a content ranging from 10% to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition , and better between 15% and 30% in weight.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9 in the form of a gel, characterized in that the copolyester terephthalic oligomer is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and better between 2% and 5% in weight.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous emulsion of the silicone compound has a size of droplets ranging from 10 nm to 50 μ.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous emulsion of the silicone compound has a droplet size ranging from 10 nm to 1000 nm.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone compound is a polyorganosiloxane.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone compound is selected from the group consisting of oils, gums, resins, pasty products, silicone waxes.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silica-containing compound is selected from the group consisting of volatile and non-volatile silicone oils.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone compound is chosen from the group consisting of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polyethersiloxane copolymers, organomodified or not, polysiloxanes modified by groups organofunctionals, and their mixtures.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone compound is selected from the group consisting of linear polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups.; linear polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups, polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes; the polydimethyl iodiphenyls loxanes.
19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone compound is present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and better between 2% and 10% by weight.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is a cosmetic or dermatological composition.
Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one adjuvant selected from the group consisting of dyes, pigments, pearlescents, anti-UV agents, preservatives, thickening agents , plasticizing agents, surfactants, waxes, oils, perfumes, pH modifying agents, moisturizing agents.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is presented in the form of a make-up composition for care or cosmetic treatment of keratin and / or mucous materials.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is presented in the form of a lip makeup product, a foundation makeup, an eye or cheek makeup, a mask , of a profiler, of an anti-dark circles, of a composition of body make-up, of a composition for the treatment of the face, of the neck, of the hands, of the body, of the nails or of the lips, of a composition deodorant, of a sunscreen composition.
24. Non-therapeutic method of make-up or treatment of keratin and / or mucosal materials, characterized in that a composition according to one of claims 1 to 23 is applied to the keratin and / or mucous materials.
Use of a water-soluble or water-dispersible terephthalic copolymer oligomer comprising essentially repeating dicarboxylate units of formula (I): [-CO-A-CO-0- (CH2-CH20) n-] (I) wherein - A represents a 1,4-phenylene, 1,3-sulfophenylene and optionally 1,3-phenylene group, - n ranges from 1 to 4, with at least 35% by mole of the said units of formula ( I) units of formula (I) for which A represents a 1,4-phenylene group and n is equal to 1, with at least 7% by mole of the said units of formula (I) units of formula (I) for which A represents a 1,3-sulfo phenylene group, and optionally up to 20 mol%, preferably up to 0.5% to 5 mol% of units of formula (I) for which A represents a group 1, 3-phenylene, and the molecular weight by weight of said oligomer being below 20 000, and of a silicone compound in aqueous emulsion, in a cosmetic or dermatological composition to reduce or even suppress the transfer of the film from this composition deposited on the keratin and / or mucous materials, and / or to suppress the deposition of traces on another support different from that of the indicated keratin materials and / or the indicated mucous membranes.
26. Use of a water-soluble or water-dispersible terephthalic copolyester terephthalic oligomer comprising essentially repeating dicarboxylate units of formula (I): [-CO-A-CO-0- (CH2-CH2?) N-] (I) in which - A represents a 1,4-phenylene group, 1,3-sulfophenylene and optionally 1,3-phenylene, n ranges from 1 to 4, - at least 35 mole% of the indicated units of formula (I) being units of formula (I) for which A represents a 1,4-phenylene group and n is equal to 1, being at minus 7 mol% of the indicated units of formula (I) units of formula (I) for which A represents a 1,3-sulfo phenylene group, and optionally up to 20 mol%, preferably up to 0, 5% to 5% by mole of formula units (I) for which A represents a group 1, 3-phenylene, and the molecular weight by weight of said copolyester oligomer of less than 20,000, and of a silicone compound in aqueous emulsion in a cosmetic or dermatological composition for obtaining a film of this bright and / or fresh composition and / or comfortable.
27. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23, for obtaining a film of this glossy and / or fresh and / or comfortable composition and / or with non-transfer properties. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The subject of the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising, in an aqueous phase: i) a water-soluble or water-dispersible terephthalic copolyester terephthalic oligomer comprising essentially repeating dicarboxylate units of formula (I): [-CO-A-CO-0- (CH2-CH20) "-] (I) wherein A represents a group 1, 4-phenylene, 1,3-sulfophenylene, n ranges from 1 to 4, with at least 35% by mole of said units of formula (I) being units of formula (I) for which A represents a 1,4-phenylene group and n is equal to 1, with at least 7% by mole of the said units of formula (I) units of formula (I) for which A represents a group 1,3 phenylene sulphide, the molecular weight by weight of said copolyester oligomer being below 20,000, ii) at least one silicone compound in emulsion in the aqueous phase. This composition is intended for the makeup of keratin materials.
MXPA/A/1999/008293A 1998-09-14 1999-09-09 Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising a sulphonated polyester and a silicon compound MXPA99008293A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9811433 1998-09-14

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
MXPA99008293A true MXPA99008293A (en) 2000-12-06

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