MXPA98008801A - Methods of regulation of the appearance of the skin with vitamin compound - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the regulation of the condition of the skin involving the topical application of a composition containing a vitamin B3 compound, especially niacinamide. The present invention also relates to the regulation of skin condition involving the topical application of a composition containing a vitamin B3 compound, especially niacinamide and a retinoid. The invention relates especially to the regulation of signs of skin aging, more particularly to the regulation of visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the texture of the skin of mammals, including discontinuities associated with aging skin, which they involve the topical application of said compositions. The present invention relates to the prophylactic and therapeutic regulation of the condition of the skin. In preferred embodiments, the vitamin B3 compound is substantially free of the salt form and does not form a complex, the vitamin B3 compound is niacinamide, and the carrier contains hydrophilic diluent.

Description

METHODS OF REGULATION OF THE APPEARANCE OF THE SKIN WITH COMPOUND OF VITAMIN Bg TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to topical compositions containing a vitamin B3 compound for regulating the condition of the skin, especially for regulating the visible and / or tactile discontinuities associated with the skin, i.e., with the aging of the skin. Preferred compositions contain niacinamide.

CROSS REFERENCE The present application claims priority under title 35, United States code 119 (e) of provisional application with serial No. 60 / 016,043, filed April 23, 1996, provisional application with serial No. 60 / 025,242, filed on September 16, 1996, and provisional application with serial No. 60 / 028,902, filed on October 21, 1996. The present application is a continuation in part of the US application with serial No. 08 / 554,067, registered on November 6, 1995.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Many personal care products currently available to consumers are primarily aimed at improving the health and / or the physical appearance of the skin. Among skin care products, several are aimed at slowing down, minimizing or even eliminating skin wrinkles and other histological changes typically associated with skin age or environmental damage to human skin. The skin is exposed to adversity by several extrinsic and intrinsic factors. Extrinsic factors include ultraviolet radiation (ie, by exposure to the sun), environmental pollution, wind, heat, low humidity, harsh surfactants, abrasives, and the like. Intrinsic factors include chronological age and other biochemical changes within the skin. Whether extrinsic or intrinsic, such factors result in visible signs of skin aging and environmental damage, such as wrinkles and other forms of roughness (including increased pore size, skin and skin lines), and other histological changes associated with aging or damage to the skin. For many people, wrinkles on the skin are a reminder of the demise of youth. As a result, the elimination of wrinkles has become a good business in youth conscious societies. The treatments range from cosmetic creams and moisturizers to various forms of cosmetic surgery. Extrinsic or intrinsic factors can result in thinning and general degradation of the skin. For example, as the skin ages naturally, there is a reduction in the cells and blood vessels that feed the skin. There is also a crushing of the dermal-epidermal junction that results in a weaker mechanical strength of such a joint. See, for example, Oikarienen, "The aging of Skin: Chronoaging Versus Photoaging ", Photodermatol, Photoimmunol, Photomed., Vol.7, pp.3-4, 1990, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. It has now been discovered that the vitamin B3 compounds including the niacin ida, they provide benefits in the condition of skin regulation that previously were not recognized in the art, of which current inventors are aware.For example, topical niacinamide can regulate the signs of skin aging, i.e., reduce or to eliminate the visibility of thin lines, wrinkles, and other forms of uneven or rough surface texture associated with the aging of photodamaged skin It has also been discovered that topical compositions containing a vitamin B3 compound and a retinoid provide benefits in the regulation of the condition of the skin that previously was not recognized in the art of which current inventors are aware, for example, The compositions allow the regulation of skin aging signals with diminished potential for requinoid dermatitis. further, the vitamin B3 compound in combination with certain retinoids, synergistically regulates the signs of skin aging, especially visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the skin texture associated with skin aging, including thin lines and wrinkles . It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide topical compositions for prophylactically and / or therapeutically regulating the skin condition of mammals (especially human skin, more specifically, facial skin), which contains a vitamin compound. B3, especially niacinamide. It is another object of the present invention to provide topical compositions for prophylactically and / or therapeutically regulating visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the texture of mammalian skin, including thin lines, wrinkles, enlarged pores, roughness and other texture discontinuities in the skin associated with skin aging, containing a vitamin B3 compound, especially niacinamide. Other objects of the present invention are to provide such topical compositions that also comprise a retinoid.

The present invention also relates to methods for providing such regulation using the subject compositions. These and other objects of the invention will become apparent in the light of the following description.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to the regulation of the condition of the skin involving the topical application of a composition containing a vitamin B3 compound, especially niacinamide. The present invention also relates to the regulation of skin condition involving the topical application of a composition containing a vitamin B3 compound, especially niacinamide, and a retinoid. The invention especially relates to the regulation of signs of skin aging, more specifically to regulate visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the texture of the mammalian skin, including discontinuities associated with skin aging, involving topical application of such compositions. The present invention also relates to the prophylactic and therapeutic regulation of the condition of the skin. In preferred embodiments, the vitamin B3 compound is substantially free of salt formation and is not complex, the vitamin B3 compound is niacinamide, and the carrier contains a hydrophilic diluent.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION All percentages and ratios used herein are by weight of the total composition and all measurements are made at 25 ° C, unless designated otherwise. The compositions of the present invention may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of, the essential as well as the exceptional ingredients and components described herein. As used herein, "consist essentially of", means that the composition or component may include additional ingredients, but only if the additional ingredients do not materially alter the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed compositions or methods. All publications cited herein are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety. The term "topical application", as used herein, means applying or spreading the compositions of the present invention on the surface of the skin. The term "dermatologically acceptable", as used herein, means that the compositions or components described therein are suitable for use in contact with human skin without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response and the like. The term "safe and effective amount", as used herein, means an amount of a compound or composition sufficient to induce significantly a positive benefit, preferably a positive skin appearance or beneficial sensation, independently including the benefits described in present, but low enough to avoid serious side effects, that is, to provide a reasonable benefit to the risk relationship, within the scope of sound judgment of the person skilled in the art. The compositions of the present invention are useful for topical application and for regulation of skin condition, including visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the skin (especially the surface of the skin, such discontinuities are generally undesired). Such discontinuities may be induced or caused by internal and / or external factors, and include the signs of skin aging described herein. "Regulating the condition of the skin" includes prophylactically regulating and / or therapeutically regulating the condition of the skin, including visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the skin. As used herein, prophylactically regulating the skin condition includes retarding, minimizing and / or preventing visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the skin. As used in this, the therapeutically regulating the condition of the skin includes diminishing, that is to say, diminishing, minimizing and / or eradicating, the discontinuities in the skin. Regulating the condition of the skin involves improving the appearance and / or feeling of the skin. The compositions of the present invention are useful for regulating the signs of skin aging, more specifically the visible and / or tactile discontinuities in skin texture associated with age. "Regulating the signs of skin age" includes regulating prophylactically and / or therapeutically regulating one or more of such signals (similarly, regulating a given signal of aging of the skin, i.e., lines, wrinkles or pores, including the regulate prophylactically and / or therapeutically regulate such a signal). As used herein, prophylactically regulating such signal includes retarding, minimizing and / or preventing signs of skin aging. As used herein, therapeutically regulating such signals include minimizing, i.e., decreasing, minimizing and / or eradicating signs of skin aging. "Signs of skin aging" include, but are not limited to, all external visible and tactile perceptible manifestations, as well as any other macro or micro effects due to the age of the skin. Such signals can be induced or caused by intrinsic factors or extrinsic factors, ie chronological age and / or environmental damage. Such signals may be the result of processes that include, but are not limited to, the development of texture discontinuities such as wrinkles, including thin surface wrinkles and deep wrinkles, skin lines, cracks, bumps, pores large (ie, associated with adnexal structures such as sweat gland ducts, sebaceous glands, or hair follicles), baldness, scaly appearance and / or other forms of regularity or roughness of the skin, loss of skin elasticity (loss and / or inactivation of functional skin tyrosine), debilatment (including swelling in the eye and neck area), loss of skin firmness, loss of skin tension, loss of skin recovery against deformation, discoloration (including circles under the eyes), hives, pallor, hyperpigmented skin regions such as age spots and freckles, keratosis, abnormal differentiation, hyperkeratinization, elastosis, collagen disruption, and other histological changes in the stratum corneum, dermis, epidermis, the vascular system of the skin (ie, telangiectasia or radially shaped blood vessels), and underlying tissues, especially those close to the skin. It should be understood that the present invention is not limited to the regulation of the aforementioned "signs of skin aging" that arise due to mechanisms associated with skin aging, but it is intended to include the regulation of such signals that do not they refer to the mechanism of origin. As used herein, "the regulation condition of the skin" is intended to include the regulation of such signals that do not refer to the origin mechanism. "The present invention is especially useful for therapeutically regulating visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the texture of mammalian skin, including texture discontinuities associated with the age of the skin." As used herein, the regular therapeutically such discontinuities include improving, i.e., decreasing, minimizing and / or eradicating visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the texture of mammalian skin, to thereby provide an appearance and / or enhanced sensation of skin, that is, a smoother, more uniform appearance and / or sensation.Such visible and / or tactile discontinuities in skin texture include cracks, protuberances, pores, thin lines, wrinkles, scales and / or other forms of irregularity or textured roughness v 20 associated with the aging of the skin. For example, the length, depth, and / or other dimension of lines and / or wrinkles are decreased, the apparent diameter of the pores is reduced, or the apparent height of the tissue proximal to the openings of the pores resembles that of the internenexa skin. The present invention is also especially useful for prophylactically regulating visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the texture of mammalian skin, including texture discontinuities associated with skin aging. As used herein, prophylactically regulating such discontinuities includes retarding, minimizing and / or avoiding visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the texture of mammalian skin, thereby providing an appearance and / or Improved feeling of the skin, that is, a softer, more regular appearance and / or sensation. The compositions of the present invention are also useful for promoting skin exfoliation. Without intending to be bound or limited by theory, it is believed that compositions containing the vitamin B3 compound, particularly niacinamide, strengthen the energy state of the cells that regulate exfoliation, resulting in the normalization of epidermal differentiation and keratinization.

Component of vitamin B3 The compositions of the present invention comprise a safe and effective amount of a vitamin B3 compound. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, and even more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 5%, of vitamin B3 compound. As used herein, "the vitamin B3 compound" means a compound having the formula: wherein R is -C0NH2 (ie, niacinamide), -COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid) or -CH20H (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; or any of the above. Exemplary derivatives of the above vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, N-oxide of nicotinic acid and N-oxide of niacinamide. Suitable nicotinic acid esters include nicotinic acid esters of C-J-C22 alcohols, preferably c? Ci6 > m & s preferably C ^ -C ^. Alcohols are straight chains or suitable branched chains, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including aromatic), and substituted or unsubstituted. The esters are preferably non-vasodilators. As used herein, "non-vasodilator" means that the ester commonly does not produce a visible rapid response after application to the skin of the subject compositions (the majority of the general population did not experience a visible rapid response, although such compounds they can cause a vasodilatation not visible in the eye). Non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate; nicotinate tocopherol is preferred. Other derivatives of the vitamin B3 compound are the niacinamide derivatives that result from the substitution of one or more of the hydrogens of the amide group. Non-limiting examples of the niacinamide derivatives useful herein include nicotinyl amino acids, derivatives, for example, of the reaction of an activated nicotinic acid compound (i.e., nicotinic acid azide or nicotinyl chloride) with an amino acid, and esters of nicotinyl alcohol of organic carboxylic acids (ie, C1-C18). Specific examples of such derivatives include nicotinuric acid (C8H8N2 ° 3 ^ v nicotinylhydroxamic acid C-HH N202), which have the following chemical structures: nicotinuric acid: nicotinylhydroxamic acid: Exemplary nicotinyl alcohol esters include nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, salicyclic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, palmitic acid, and the like. Other non-limiting examples of the vitamin B3 compounds useful herein are 2-chloronicotheinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, n-methyl-chloronicotinamide, n, n-diethylnicotinamide, n- (hydroxymethyl) nicotinamide, amidaquinolic acid, nicotinanilide , n-benzylnicotinamide, n-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, ethylisonicotinic acid, thionicatinamide, niala ida, l- (3-pyridylmethyl) urea, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol, and niaprazine. Examples of the above vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a number of sources, ie, the Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, Wl). One or more vitamin B3 compounds can be used herein. The preferred vitamin B3 compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Niacinamide is more preferred. When they used, salts, derivatives, and salts derived from niacinamide are preferred those whhave substantially the same efficacy as niacinamide in the methods of regulation of the skin condition described herein. The saltse of the vitamin B3 compound are also useful herein. Non-limiting examples of the salts of the vitamin B3 compound useful herein include organic or inorganic salts such as inorganic salts with inorganic anionic salts (ie, chloride, bromide, iodide, carbonate, preferably chloride), and salts of acid organic carboxylic (including salts of mono-, di- and tri-Cl-C8 carboxylic acid, ie, acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, preferably monocarboxylic acid salts such as acetate). This and other salts of the vitamin B3 compound can be prepared by one skilled in the art, for example, as described by W. Wenner, "The Reaction of L-Ascorbic and D-Iosascortaic Acid with Nicotinic Acid and Its Amide ", J. Organic Chemistry, VOL 14, 22-26 (1949), which is incorporated herein by reference.

Wenner describes the synthesis of the ascorbic acid salt of niacinamide. In a preferred embodiment, the nitrogen ring of the vitamin B3 compound is chemically free in a subetancial manner (i.e., free and / or unobstructed), or after introducing it into the skin it becomes chemically free in a subetancial manner alternatively reference will be made to "chemically free" as "incomplete"). More preferably, the vitamin B3 compound is essentially incomplete. Therefore, if the composition contains the vitamin B3 compound in a salt or other complex form, such a complex is preferably subestantially reversible, more preferably substantially revealable, by introducing the composition into the skin. For example, such a complex must be subetanially revereable at a pH of about 5.0 to about 6.0. Such a reversible character can be determined by a person skilled in the art. More preferably the composition of vitamin B3 is subetancially incomplete in the composition prior to introduction into the skin. Exemplary investigations to minimize or prevent the formation of undesirable complexes include the omission of materials that form substantially irreversible complexes or other complexes with the vitamin B3 compound, adjustment of the pH, adjustment of the ionic strength, the use of surfactants. , and formulate whether the vitamin B3 compound and materials whose complex is in it are in different phases. Such investigations are correct within the level of the ordinarily skilled artisan. Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the vitamin B3 compound contains a limited amount of the salt form and is more preferably substantially free of salt from a vitamin B3 composition. Preferably the vitamin B3 compote contains less than about 50% of that salt, and more preferably essentially free of the salt form. The vitamin B3 compound in the compositions herein having a pH of from about 4 to about 7 typically contains less than about 50% of the salt form. The vitamin B3 compound can be included as a substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by any suitable physical and / or chemical isolation from natural sources (ie, plants). The vitamin compound B3 is preferably substantially pure, more preferably essentially pure.

The composition of the present invention comprises a dermatologically acceptable vehicle whose vitamin B3 component is incorporated to allow the vitamin B3 compound and other optional active ingredients to be introduced into the skin in a suitable concentration. The vehicle can thus act as a diluent, solvent, solvent, or emulsion for the active ingredients which ensure that they can be applied and distributed uniformly over the selected objective at an appropriate concentration. The vehicle may contain one or more solids, solids or liquid fillers, diluents, solvents, diluents and similarly dermatologically acceptable. The vehicle can be solid, semi-solid or liquid. The vehicle itself may be inert or may have dermatological benefits of its own. Vehicle concentrations may vary with the selected vehicle and the proposed concentrations of essential and optional components. Suitable vehicles include conventional or otherwise known vehicles that are dermatologically acceptable. The vehicle should also be physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described herein, and should not unduly affect the stability, efficacy or other benefit of use associated with the compositions of the present invention. The preferred components of the compositions of the present invention should be capable of combining so that there is no interaction, which would substantially reduce the effectiveness of the composition under ordinary use situations. The type of vehicle used in the present invention depends on the type of product form desired for the composition. Topical compositions useful in the subject invention can be made in a wide variety of product forms as are known in the art. The foregoing includes, but is not limited to, lotions, creams, gels, deodorants, sprays, ointments, pastes, ouseee, and cosmetics (ie, solid, semi-solid, or liquid makeup, including baeee, emeralds, pigmented lip treatments, and pigmented, that is, lipsticks, and similaree). Such product forms may comprise various types of vehicles including, but not limited to, solutions, aerosols, emulsions, gels, solids and liposomes. Preferred carriers contain a dermatologically acceptable hydrophilic diluent. As used herein, the "diluent" includes materials in which the vitamin B3 compound can be dispelled, dielated, or otherwise incorporated. Hydrophilic diluents include water, organic hydrophilic diluents such as lower monovalent alcohols (ie, C - ^ - C ^) and low molecular weight polyols and glycols, including propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (ie, molecular weight 200-600 g / mol), polypropylene glycol (ie, molecular weight 425-2025 g / mol), glycerol, butylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanediol, sorbitol esters, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, isopropanol, sorbitol esters, butanediol, propanol ether, ethoxylated ethers, propoxylated ethers and combinations thereof. Water is a preferred diluent. The composition preferably comprises from about 80% to 99.99% of the hydrophilic diluent of the vitamin B3 compound in the amounts described above. Solutions according to the subject invention typically include a dermatologically acceptable hydrophilic diluent. The solutions useful in the subject invention preferably contain from about 80% to about 99.99% hydrophilic diluent and the vitamin B3 compound in the amounts described above. The aerosols according to the subject invention can be formed by adding an impaler to a solution as described above. Exemplary impellents include chloroflorinated lower molecular weight hydrocarbons. Additional impellents that are useful herein are described in Sagarin, Cosmetics Science and Technology, 2S Edition, Vol. 2, pp. 443-465 (1972), incorporated herein by reference. Aeroeroles are typically applied to the skin as a spray product. Preferred vehicles comprise an emulsion such as oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions and water emulsification in eylicon. As will be understood by the person skilled in the art, a given component will be distributed mainly in either the aqueous or oil / ethyl phase, depending on the solubility / water solubility of the component in the composition. Preferred vitamin B3 compounds are distributed mainly in the aqueous phase. Oil-in-water emulsions are especially preferred. Emulsions according to the present invention generally contain a solution as described above for a lipid or oil Lipids and oils may be derived from animals, plants, or petroleum and may be natural or synthetic (ie, made by The preferred emulsions also contain a humectant, such as glycerin, The emulsion also preferably will contain from about 1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 2% to about 5%, of an emulsifier, based on the pee The emulsifiers can be nonionic, anionic or cationic Suitable emulsifiers are described, for example, in U.S. Patent 3,755,560, filed August 28, 1973, Dickert and other US Patent 4,421,769, pre-filed. on December 20, 1983, Dixon et al, and McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition, pages 3 17-324 (1986), each incorporated herein by reference. The emulsion may also contain an antifoaming agent to minimize the foam when applied to the skin. Antifoaming agents include high molecular weight silicones and other materials well known in the art for such use.

Suitable emulsions can have a wide scale of viscosities, depending on the shape of the desired product. Exemplary low viscosity emulsions, which are preferred, have a viscosity of about 50 centistokee or less, more preferably about 10 centistokee or less, preferably about 5 centietokee or menoe. Preferred silicone water oil-in-water emulsions are described in greater detail below. a) Silicone water emulsion Silicone water emulsions contain a continuous silicone phase and a dispersed aqueous phase. i) Continuous Silicone Phase The preferred silicone water emulsions of the present invention comprise from about 1% to about 60%, preferably from about 5% to about 40%, more preferably from about 10% to about 20% by weight and a continuous silicone phase. The continuous silicone phase exists as an external phase that contains or surrounds the discontinuous aqueous phase described hereinafter. The continuous silicone phase contains a polyorganosiloxane oil. A preferred silicone water emulsion system is formulated to provide an oxidatively stable vehicle for the optional retinoid. The continuous silicone phase of such preferred emulsions comprises between about 50% and about 99.9% by weight of organopolysiloxane oil and less than about 50% by weight of a non-silicone oil. And especially in a preferred embodiment, the continuous silicone phase comprises at least about 50%, preferably from about 60% to about 99.9%, more preferably from about 70% to about 99.9%, and even more preferably from about 80% to about 99.9%, polyorganosiloxane oil by weight of continuous silicone phase, and up to about 50% non-silicone oils, preferably less than about 40%, preferably less than about 30%, preferably less than about 10%, and preferably less than about 2% by weight of the continuous silicone phase. Such preferred emulsion blanks provide more oxidative stability to the retinoid over a period of time compared to water-in-oil emulsions containing lower concentration of polyorganosiloxane oil. The concentrations of non-silicone oil in the continuous silicon are minimized or avoided to further improve the oxidative stability of the selected retinoid in the compositions. Silicone water emulsions of this type are described in the co-pending U.S. patent application. with serial No. 08 / 570,275, filed on December 11, 1995, in the name of Joseph Michael Zukowski, Brent Willian Mason, Larry Richard Robinson and Greg George Hillebrand, incorporated herein by reference. The organopolysiloxane oil for use in the composition may be volatile, non-volatile, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones. The term "non-volatile" as used in this context, refers to siliconee which are liquids under ambient conditions and have a temperature of flammability (under an atmoepheric pressure) of or greater than about 100 ° C. The term "volatile" as used in the context refers to all other silicone oils. Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety of silicones encompassing a wide range of volatilities and viscoeities. Examples of suitable organopolysiloxane oils include cyclic polyalkylsiloxane polyalkylsiloxane and polyalkylarylisiloxane. Useful polyalkylsiloxanes in the composition herein include polyalkisiloxane with viccosities from about 0.5 to about 1,000,000 centistrokes at 25 ° C. Such polyalkysiloxanes can be represented by the general chemical formula R3Si0CR2Si0]? SiR3 wherein R E is an alkyl group having from one to about 30 carbon atoms (preferably R is methyl or eyl, more preferably methyl); it can also be used with alkyl groups mixed in the same molecule), and x is an integer from 0 to about 10,000, selected to achieve the desired molecular weight which can be found in the scale of up to about 10,000,000. Commercially available polyalkyl-oxanes include polydi-ethylsiloxanes, which are also known as dimethicones, examples of which include the series of VicasilR sold by General Electric Company and the Dow series Corning ^ sold or Dow Corning Corporation. Specific examples of suitable polydimethyleryloxane include Dow Corning® 200 fluid having a viscosity of 0.65 centistokes and a boiling point of 100 ° C, Dow fluid.

CorningR 225 has a viscosity of 10 centistokes and a boiling point greater than 200PC, and the fluids of Dow CorningR 200 have viscoeities of 50, 350 and 12,500 centistokes, respectively, and boiling points ayoree at 200 ° C. Suitable di eticonones include those represented by the chemical formula (CH3) 3 Si0CCH3) Sixy: CH3RSi0] and Si (CH3) 3, wherein R is a branched straight chain alkyl having from two to about 30 carbon atoms and x is each integers of 1 or greater selected to achieve the desired molecular weight that can be found on the scale of up to approximately 10,000,000. Examples of substituted alkyl dimethicones include ethyldi ethicones and lauryldimethicones. The cyclic polyalkyleloyloxanes suitable for use in the composition include those assigned by the chemical formula [SiR2-0] n, wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R ee methyl or ethyl, most preferably methyl) and n ee an integer about 3 to about 8, more preferably n is an integer from about 3 to about 7, and more preferably n is an integer from about 4 to about 6. Where * R is methyl, such materials are typically referred to as cyclomethicones. The commercial cyclomethicones available include the Dow Corning® 244 fluid which has a viscosity of 2.5 centietokes and a boiling point of 172 ° C, which contains mainly the cyclomethicone tetramer (ie n = 4), the Dow fluid.

Corning® 344 which has a viscosity of 2.5 centietokee and a boiling point of 178 ° C, which mainly contains the pentamer cyclomethicone (ie n = 5), the Dow Corning® fluid having a viscosity of 4.2 centistokee and a boiling point of 205 ° C, which mainly contains a mixture of tetramer and pentamer cyclomethicone (ie n = 4 and 5), and Dow Corning® fluid having a viscosity of 4.5 centistokes and a boiling point of 217 ° C, which contains mainly a mixture of tetramer, pentamer, and cyclomethicone hexamer (ie n = 4.5 and 6). Also useful are materials such as tri ethyleryloxylate, which is a polymeric material corresponding to the general chemical formula C (CH2) 3Si02] and wherein x is an integer from about 1 to about 500 and y is an integer from about 1 to about about 500. A commercially available trimethylsiloxysilicate is sold as a blend with dimethicone as Dow Corning® 593 fluid. Dimethiconols are also suitable for use in the composition. Such compounds can be represented by the chemical formulas R3Si0 [R2Si0]? SiR20H and H0R2Si0 [R2Si0 > < SiR20H, wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and x is an integer from 0 to about 500, selected to achieve the desired molecular weight. Commercially available dimethiconols are typically sold as mixtures with dimethicone or cyclodimethicone (ie, Dow Corning R 1401, 1402, and 1403 fluid). The polyalkylaryl siloxanes are also suitable for use in the composition. Polydimethylphenylsiloxanes having viscoeidadee of about 15 haeta about 65 centietokes at 25 ° C are especially useful. The organopolieiloxane selected from the group containing polyalkylsiloxane, di-ethylated alkyl ethers, cyclomethicones, tri-ethylsiloxysilicates, dimethiconols, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, and mixtures thereof are preferred for use herein. Preferred for use in the present are polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclodimethicones. Among the polyalkylsiloxane ee, dimethicone is preferred.

As mentioned above, the continuous silicone phase may contain one or more non-silicone oils. The concentrations of non-silicone oils in the continuous silicone phase are preferably minimized or avoided to further improve the oxidative stability of the retinoid selected in the compositions. Suitable non-silicone oils have a melting temperature of about 25 ° C or less under an atmosphere of pressure. Examples of non-silicone oils suitable for use in the continuous silicone phase are those well known in the chemical arts in topical personal care products in the form of water-in-oil emulsion, ie, mineral oil, vegetable oils, synthetic oils, semisynthetic oils, etc. (ii) Lae dispersed aqueous phase topical compositions of the present invention comprise from about 30% to about 90%, more preferably from about 50% to about 85%, and more preferably from about 70% to about 80% of a dispersed aqueous fae . In emulsion technology, the term "dispersed phase" is a term well known to the person skilled in the art, which means that the phase exits as small particles or droplets that are suedected and surrounded by a continuous phase. The dispersed phase is also known as the internal or discontinuous phase. The dispersed aqueous phase is a dieperaion of small aqueous particles or droplets that are suspended and surrounded by the continuous silicone phase described above. The water phase can be water, or a combination of water and one or more ingredients that are soluble or dietary in water. Non-limiting examples of such optional ingredients include espeeantee, acids, basee, ealee, chelates, gums, alcohols and water soluble or dispersible polyols, regulators, preservatives, sweat filter agent, colorants and the like. The topical compositions of the present invention will typically comprise from about 25% to about 90%, preferably from about 40% to about 80%, more preferably from about 60% to about 80% in water in the aqueous phase dispersed by weight of the composition . (iii) Emulsifier for dispersing the aqueous phase The water-in-silicone emulsions of the present invention preferably comprise an emulsifier. In a preferred embodiment, the composition contains from about 0.1% to about 10% emulsifier, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 7.5%, more preferably from about 1% to about 25%, and ulsor by weight of the composition. The emulsifier helps to die and suspend the aqueous phase within the continuous silicone phase. A wide variety of emulsifying agents can be used herein to form the preferred silicone water emulsion. Known or conventional emulsifying agents can be used in the composition, since the selected emulsifying agent is chemically and physically compatible with the essential components of the composition, and provides the desired dispersion characteristics. Suitable adjuvants include silicone emulsifiers, silicone-free emulsifiers, and mixtures thereof, known to those skilled in the art for use in topical personal care products. Preferably such emulsifiers have an HLB value of or less than about 14, more preferably from about 2 to about 14, and more preferably from about 4 to about 14. Emulsifiers having an HLB value outside such eecalae can be used in combination with other emulsifiers to achieve a heavy average HLB effective for the combination that falls within such scales. Silicone emulsifiers are preferred. A wide variety of silicone emulsifiers are useful herein. Such silicone emulsifiers are organopolysiloxanes typically organically modified, also known to those skilled in the art as surfactant agents of eylicon. The most useful products include dimethicone copolyols. Such materials are polydi ethyleyloxanes which have been modified to include polyether laterale chains such as polyethylene oxide chains, polypropylene oxide chains, chain block mixes, and polyether chains containing portions derived from ethylene oxide and oxide. of propylene. Other examples include modified alkyl dimethicone copolyols, ie, compounds containing pendant C-C30 side chains. Still other useful dimethicone copolyols include materials having various cationic, anionic, amphoteric, and zwitterionic pendant moieties. The dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers useful herein can be described by the following general structure: CH3 -CH 3 wherein R is straight, branched, or cyclic alkyl, and R2 is selected from the group consisting of - (CH2) n-0 (CH2CHR30) m-H, and - (CH2) n-0 (CH2CHR30) m - (CH2CHR 0) or-H, wherein n is an integer from 3 to about 10; R3 and R are selected from the group consisting of a group consisting of a straight or branched alkyl chain H and C ^ -C ^, so that R3 and R4 are not simultaneously the same; and m, o, x, yy are selected so that the molecule has a total molecular weight from about 200 to about 10,000,000, with m, o, x, yy being independently selected from 0 or greater integer, so that myo are not simultaneously 0, and z being selected independently of integers of 1 or more. It is recognized that positional isomers of talee copolyole can be achieved. The chemical representations described above for the R2 portions containing R3 and R are not limiting, but are shown in this manner for convenience. They are also useful herein, although not strictly classified as dimethicone copolyols, the surfactant silicone agents as described in the structures in the preceding paragraph wherein R2 is: - (CH2) n-0-R5, where R5 is a cationic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic moiety. Non-limiting examples of dimethicone copolyols and other silicone surfactants useful as emulsifiers herein include polyether copolymers of polydimethylsiloxane with pendant polyethylene oxide lateralee chains, polyether polydimethyelloxane copolymers with pendant polypropylene oxide side chains, copolymers of polydimethylsiloxane polyether with blended polyethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide side chains, polydi-ethyl siloxane polyether copolymers with pendant mixed poly (ethylene) (propylene) side chains, polydimethylsiloxane polyether copolymers with pendant organobetaine lateralee chains polyether copolymers of polydimethylsiloxane with pendant carboxylate side chains, polyether copolymers of polydi ethylsiloxane with lateralee chain of quaternary ammonium; and also further modification of the above copolymers containing straight, branched C2-C30 pendant portions, or cyclic alkyl. Examples of the commercially available dimethicone copolyols useful herein sold by Dow Corning Corporation is wax from Dow Corning 190, 193, Q2-5220, 2501, fluid 2-5324, and 3225 C (the latter material is sold as a mixture with polyglyceryl-4-isoetherate (and) hexyl laurate and is sold under the trade name ABILR WE-09 (available from Goldschmidt) Copolyol cetyl dimethicone is also commercially available as a mixture with hexyl laurate (and) polyglyceryl-3 oleate (and) cetyl dimethicone and is sold under the trade name ABILR WS-08 (also available from Goldschmidt.) Other non-limiting examples of the dimethicone copolyols also include lauryl dimethicone copolyol, dimethicone copolyol-acetate, dimethicone copolyol-adipate, dimethicone copolyol amine, dimethicone copolyol-behenate, copolyol-butyl ether of dimethicone, dimethicone copolyol-hydroxystearate, copolyol isostearate dimethicone, dimethicone copolyol laurate, dimethicone copolyol phosphate, and copolyol stearate. of dimethicone. See International Coemetic Ingredient Dictionary »fifth edition, 1993, which is incorporated as a reference in its present totality. The dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers useful herein are described, for example, in the patent of the E.U.A. No. 4,960,764, by Figueroa, Jr. and others; filed on October 2, 1990; European Patent No. EP 330,369, of SanoGueira, published on August 30, 1989; G.H. Dahms, and others, "New Formulation Poseibilitiee Offered by Silicone Copolyols ", Cosmetice &Toiletries, vol 110, pp. 91,100, pp. 91-100, March 1995; ME. Carlotti et al., "Optimization of W / O-S E lsione And Styty Of The Quantitative Relationehips Between Ester Structure And Emulsion Properties ", J. Dispereion Science And Technology, 1383), 315.336 (1992); P. Hameyer, "Comparative Technological Invets of Organic and Organosilicone Emulsifiers in Cosmetic Water-in-Oil Emuleion Preparations ", HAPPI 28 (4), pp. 88-128 (1991), J. Smid-Korbar et al.," Efficiency and usability of silicone surfactants in emulsions "," Provisional Communication International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 12, 135-139 (1990); and D.G. Krzysik et al., "A New Silicone Emulsifier for Water-in-Oil Systems," Drug and Cosmetic Indutry, vol. 146 (4) pp. 28-81 (April 1990); incorporated as reference in the present in its entirety. Among the non-silicone-containing emulsifiers useful in the present are various non-ionic and anionic emulsifying agents such as sugar ethers and polyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, fatty acid esters C1-C30 of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated derivatives of the C 1 -C 30 fatty acid esters of the C 1 -C 30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated ethers of C 1 -C 30 fatty alcohols, polyglyceryl ester of C 1 -C 30 fatty acids, polyol Cl-C 30 esters, polyol C1- esters C30, alkylphosphates, polyoxyalkylene fatty ether phosphate, acid amides, acylactylates, soaps, and mixtures thereof. Other suitable emulsifiers are described, for example, in McCutcheons's, Detergents and Emulsifies, North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; the patent of E.U.A. DO NOT. 5,011,681 to Ciotti et al., Filed April 30, 1991; the U.S. patent No. 4,421,769 to Dixon et al., Filed December 20, 1983, and the US patent. No. 3,755,560 to Dickert et al., Filed August 28, 1973; such references are incorporated in the preamble as reference in their entirety. Non-limiting examples of such emulsifiers that do not contain silicone include: sorbitan polyethylene glycol 20 monolaurate (Polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5-soybean, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, methylgluous ether-distearate of PPG-2, Ceteth- 10, Polyeorbate 80, cetylfoefate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetylphosphate, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, polyoxyethylene sorbitan triolate 20 (Polysorbate 85), sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene 4-stearate lauryl ether of sodium, 4 polyglyceryl isoetherate, hexyl laurate, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, this methylgluous r-distearate of PPG-2, Ceteth-10, diethanolamine cetylphosphate, glyceryl stearate, PEG-00 stearate, and mixtures thereof. b) Oil-in-water emulsions. Other preferred topical vehicles include oil-in-water emulsions, which have a continuous aqueous phase and a hydrophobic phase and a water-insoluble phase ("oil phase") dispersed therein. An especially preferred oil-in-water emulsion, which contains a structuring agent, a hydrophilic surfactant and water, is described in detail below. (i) Structurant A preferred oil-in-water emulsion comprises a structuring agent to aid in the formation of a liquid crystal gel network structure. The concentration of such structuring agent is about 1% haeta about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 3% to about 9% by weight of the topical vehicle. The appropriate structuring agents are those selected from the group consisting of alcoholee graeoe C ^ a Cgg comatose, saturated C C to C 30 fatty alcohols containing from about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, saturated C 16,, C 3 Q diols, saturated C 16 to C 30 monoglycerol esters, saturated C 6 to C 30 hydroxy fatty acids, and mixtures thereof, having a melting temperature of at least about 45 ° C. Preferred structuring agents include stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmitic acid, polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having a percentage of about 1 to about 5 units of ethylene oxide, the polyethylene glycol ether of alcohol cetyl having a percentage of about 1 to about 5 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. The most preferred structuring agents of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having a percentage of about 2 ethylene oxide units (Steareth-2), polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol has a percentage of about 2 units of ethylene oxide, and mixes of the miems. Even the most preferred structuring agents are selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, Steareth-2, and mixtures thereof. The most preferred is Steareth-2, available under the trade name of BrijR 72 from ICI Americas. (ii) Hydrophilic surfactant Preferred oil-in-water emulsions comprise from about 0.05% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 6%, and more preferably from about 1% to about 3% of at least one surfactant hydrophilic which can disperse the hydrophobic materials in the aqueous phase (percentages by weight of the topical vehicle). The surface-active agent must be at least sufficiently hydrophilic to disperse in water. Suitable surfactants include a wide variety of known cationic, anionic, zwitterionic, and amphoteric surfactants. See McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; the U.S. patent 5,011,681; the U.S. patent 4,421,769; and the US patent. 3,755,560; such references are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. The exact surface active agent selected will depend on the pH of the composition and other constituents. Preferred are cationic and teneoactive agents, especially dialkylammonium quaternary compounds, examples of which are described in US Pat. ,151,209; the U.S. patent 5,151,210; the U.S. patent 5,120,532; the U.S. patent 4,387,090; the U.S. patent 3,155,591; the U.S. patent 3,929,678; the U.S. patent 3,959,461; McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers, (North American Edition 1979) M.C.

Publishing Co .; and Schwartz, and others, Surface Active Agents.

Their Chemistry and Technology, New York: Interscience Publishers, 1949; whose descriptions are incorporated herein by reference. Cationic surfactants useful herein include cationic ammonium salts such as those having the formula: wherein R] _, is an alkyl group having from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms; R2, R3, R are independently selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 22 carbon atoms, or aromatic, aryl or alkaryl groups having from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms; and X is any compatible anion, preferably selected from the group consisting of chloride, bromide, iodide, acetate, foefate, nitrate, sulfate, methylisulfate, ethylsulfate, tosylate, lactate, citrate, glycolate, and mixtures thereof. Additionally, the alkyl groups of R ^, R3, R3, and R may also contain ester and / or ether bond or hydroxy or amino group substituents (ie, the alkyl groups may contain the polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol moieties). More preferably, ^ is an alkyl group having from about to about 22 carbon atoms; R is selected from H or an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 22 carbon atoms; R3 and R are independently selected from H or an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; and X as described above. More preferably, R ^ is an alkyl group having from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms; R2, R3 and R are selected from the H or an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; and X is as described above. Alternatively, other useful cationic emulsifiers include ino-amides, wherein in the above structure R ^ is alternatively R5C0NH- (CH2) n, wherein R5 is an alkyl group having from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and n is an integer from about 2 to about 6, more preferably from about 2 to about 4, and more preferably from about 2 to about 3. Non-limiting examples of these cationic emulsifiers include stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium phosphate-chloride, behenamidopropyl PG-di onium chloride, stearamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (myristyl acetate), stearamidopropylmethylmethylcatearyl tosium tosylate, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, idopropyl dimethylammonium stearate lactate, and mixtures thereof. Especially preferred is behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride. Non-limiting examples of the cationic quaternary ammonium salt surfactants include those selected from the group consisting of cetyl ammonium chloride, cetyl onium bromide, laurylammonium chloride, laurylammonium bromide, stearylammonium chloride, stearylammonium bromide, cetildium chloride ethylammonium, cetyl dimethylammonium bromide, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldiyl ethylammonium bromide, stearyldimethylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylammonium bromide, acetyltrimethylammonium chloride, acetyltrimethylammonium bromide, lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylammonium bromide, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, etheryltrimethylammonium bromide , lauryldimethylammonium chloride, diethyl dimethyl ethyl chloride and diethodimethylammonium chloride, dicetyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl onium bromide, dilauryl ammonium chloride. dilaurammonium bromide, distearylammonium chloride, distearyl onium bromide, dicetylmethyl onium chloride, dicetyl methylammonium bromide, dilauryl methylammonium chloride, dilauryl ethylammonium bromide, distearylmethyl onium chloride, distearyl methyl ammonium bromide, and mixtures thereof. Additional quaternary ammonium saltse include those in which the C ^ 2 to C3 alkyl carbon chain is derived from a tallow fatty acid or a coconut fatty acid. The term "tallow" refers to an alkyl group that is derived from tallow acid (usually graoe acids from hydrogenated eebo), h generally has mixtures of alkyl chains in the range of C16 to C18. The term "coconut" refers to an alkyl group derived from a coconut fatty acid, h generally has mixtures of alkyl chains in the range of c 12 to 14- Axis of the quaternary ammonium salts derived from such tallow sources and coconut include dimethyl ammonium chloride, methyl disodium dimethyl sulfate, di (hydrogenated tallow) dimethylammonium chloride, di (hydrogenated tallow) dimethylammonium acetate, dipropylammonium diphosphate, dimethylammonium nitrate, di (cocoalkyl) - dimethylammonium chloride, di (cocoalkyl) dimethyl ammonium bromide, chloride tallow ammonium chloride, ammonium cobalt chloride, phosphate-chloride stearamidropropyl PG-di onium, etosulfate is ereamidopropyl-ethyldimonium, stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, tosylate esteara idopropyl dimethyltearyl ammonium, stearic acid idopropyldimethylammonium chloride, lactate stearamidopropyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. An example of a quaternary ammonium compound having an alkyl group with an ester linkage is ditallowyloxy-dimethylammonium chloride. The most preferred cationic surfactant acids are those selected from the group consisting of behenamidopropyl PG dimonium chloride, dilauryldimethylammonium chloride, dieteretyldiyl ethylammonium chloride, dimethyldimethyl ammonium chloride, dipalmityldimethylammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, phosphate-chloride stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium, ethoxy stearate. idopropyl ethylamide, stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, tosylate esteara idopropyl dimethyl cetethylammonium chloride, tetraetharamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lactate tetraetharamidopropyl dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The most preferred cationic surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of aminodopropyl PG dimonium chloride, dilauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, di-aryldimethyl ammonium chloride, dipalmityldimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures of the mieme. A preferred combination of the cationic surfactant and the structuring agent is behenamidopropyl PG-di-onium and / behenyl alcohol, wherein the ratio is preferably optimized to maintain and improve physical and chemical stability, especially when such a combination contains ionic solvents. and / or highly polar.

Such a combination is especially useful for the exposure of sunscreen agents such as zinc oxide and octyl methoxycin ato. A wide variety of anionic surfactants are also useful herein. See, for example, U.S. Pat. DO NOT. 3,929,678, Laughlin et al., Filed December 30, 1975, h is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety; Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include alkyl aldehydes, and alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether. Alkylisethionates typically have the formula RC0-0CH CH2S03M, wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl of about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium and triethanolamine. Non-limiting examples of such isethionates include the alkyloseethionates selected from the group consisting of cocoise ammonium ionete, eodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl ethylene ate, sodium stearoyl isethionate, and mixtures of the mieme. The alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates typically have the respective formulas, R0S03M and R0 (C2H0)? S03, wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl of about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, x is about 1 to about 10, and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium and triethanolamine. Another suitable class of anionic surfactants are the water soluble salts of the organic reaction, products of the sulfuric acid reaction product of the general formula: R? -S03- wherein R ^ is selected from a group consisting of a straight or branched chain, saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having from about 8 to about 24, preferably from about 10 to about 16 carbon atoms; and M is a cation. Still other synthetic anionic surfactants include the class designated as succinamate, olefin sulfonate having from about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, and sulfonate and alkyloxyalkane. Examples of such materials are eodium lauryl sulfate and ammonium lauryl sulfate.

Other anionic materials that the present uses with the soaps (ie, alkalimetal ealee, e.g., salts of eodium or potassium) of fatty acids, typically having from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably from about 10 to about 20 atoms of carbon. The fatty acids used in the manufacture of soaps can be obtained from natural sources such as, for example, glycerides derived from plants or animals (ie, palm oil, coconut oil, soybean oil, castor oil, bait) , butter, etc). The fatty acids can also be prepared in an energetic way. Loe soap are described in more detail in U.S. Pat. No. 4,557,853, cited above. * Amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactant acids are also used herein. Examples of the amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are those broadly described as derivatives of the secondary and tertiary aliphatic amines in which the aliphatic radial can be a straight or branched chain, and wherein one of the aliphatic suetituyentee contains from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms (preferably C8-C18) and one contains a water-soluble anionic group, i.e.; carboxy, sulfonate, eulfate, foefate, or foefonate. The alkylimino acetates, the inodialkanoates and the aminoalkanoates are examples of the formulas RN [CH2) mC02M2] and RNH (CH) mC02M, wherein m is from 1 to 4, R is a C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl, and M in H, alkyl metal, alkaline earth metal, or alkanolammonium. Also included are imidazolinium and ammonium derivatives. Specific examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants include sodium 3-dodecyl aminopropionate, eodium 3-dodecylaminopropane sulphonate, alkyturinae-N, such as is prepared by reacting dodecyl ina with eodium isothionate according to the education of the patent of the USA 2,658,072 which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety; the higher N-alkylapartic acids as produced according to the teaching of the U.S. patent. 2,438,091 which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety, and the products sold under the trade name "Miranol" and described in U.S. Pat. 2,528,378, which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Other useful amphoteric examples include phosphates, such as PG-dimonium coamidopropyl chloride phosphate (and commercially available as Monaquat PTC from Mona Corp.). Betaines are also useful herein as amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Examples of betaines include the highest alkylbetaines, such as cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, laurylimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldi ethylalcarboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethyl carboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylbetaine (available as Lonzaine 16SP from Lonza Corp.), lauryl- (2-hydroxyethyl) -carboxymethylbenzene ai na, eete ra ri lbie- (2-hid roxip ropil) ca rboxi - methylbetaine, oleyldimethylgama-carboxypropylbetaine, laurylbis- (2-hydroxypropyl) alpha-carboxyethylbetaine, cocodimethylsulfo-propylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetaine, ibis laurium- ( 2-hyd roxie til) eulfop ropil-betaine, and amidobetaines and amidosulfobetaines (wherein the radical RC0NH (CH2) 3 is attached to the nitrogen atom of betaine), oleylbetaine (available as Velvetex OLB-50 from amphoteric Henkel), and coca idopropylbetaine (available as Vevetes BK-35 and BA-35 of Henkel). Other amphoteric surfactant agents and zwitterionic agents include lae eultain and hydroxysultain such as cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine (available as Mirataine CBS from Rhone-Poulenc), and the alkanoyl sarcosinates corresponding to the formula RC0N (CH3) CH2C02M, where R is alkyl or alkenyl of about 10 to about 20 carbon atoms, and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium and trialkanolane (ie, triethanolamine), of which a preferred example is sodium sarcosinate lauroyl. (iii) Water The preferred oil-in-water emulsion comprises from about 25% to about 98%, preferably from about 65% to about 95%, more preferably from about 70% to about 90% water by weight of the topical carrier. The hydrophobic phase is dispereated in the continuous aqueous phase. The hydrophobic phase may contain water-insoluble or partially soluble materials such as those known in the art, including but not limited to the siliconee described in the foregoing with reference to silicone emulsions in water, and other lipid oils such as previously described with reference to emulsions. Topical compositions of the subject invention, include but are not limited to lotions and creams may comprise a dermatologically acceptable emollient. Such compositions preferably contain from about 2% to about 50% emollient. As used herein, "emollients" refers to a material useful for the prevention or relief of dryness, as well as for the protection of the skin. A wide variety of suitable emollients are known and can be used herein. Sagarin, Coe etic, science and Technology, 2nd. edition, Vol. 1, pp. 32-43 (1972), incorporated herein by reference, contains numerous examples of suitable materials as an emollient. A preferred emollient is glycerin. The glycerin is preferably used in an amount from or about 0.001 to or about 20%, more preferably from or about 0.01 to or about 10%, more preferably from or about 0.1 to or about 5%, ie, 3%. The lotions and creams according to the present invention generally comprise a solution vehicle system and one or more emollients. The reactions typically comprise from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 5% to about 10% of emollient; from about 50% to about 90%, preferably from about 60% to about 80%, water, and the vitamin B3 compound in the amounts described above. A cream typically comprises from about 5% to about 50%, preferably from about 10% to about 20%, of emollient; from about 45% to about 85%, preferably from about 50% to about 75% water; and the vitamin B3 compound in the amounts described above. The ointments of the present invention may comprise a simple carrier vehicle base of oil of animal or vegetable origin or hydrocarbons eeolidee (oleaginous); the bases of absorption ointment that absorb water to form emulsions; or water soluble vehicles, ie; a vehicle solution soluble in water. The ointments may further comprise a thickening agent, such as that described in Sagarin, Cosmetics. Science and Technology. 2nd edition, Vol. 1, pp. 72-73 (1972), incorporated herein by reference, and / or an emollient. For example, an ointment may comprise from about 2% to about 10% of an emollient; from about 0.1% to about 2% of a thickening agent; and compound 5 of vitamin B3 in the amount described above. The compositions of the present invention for cleaning ("cleansers") are formulated with a suitable vehicle, i.e., as described above, and preferably also contain the vitamin B3 compound in the amounts described above, from about 1% to about 90%, more preferably from about 5% to about 10% of a dermatologically acceptable surfactant. The surfactant is suitably selected from anionic surfactants, noniónicos, gliteriónicos, anfotéricoe and ampholíticos, as well as the mixtures of such tensoactivos agents. Such surfactant agents are well known to those skilled in the art.

»Of cleaning effect. Non-limiting examples of possible surfactant agents include isoceteth-20, sodium taurate »20 methyl cocoil, sodium taurate methyloleoyl, and sodium sulfate lauryl. See U.S. Pat. No. 4,800,197, by Kowez et al .; filed January 24, 1989, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety for the exemplary surface active agents useful herein.

Examples of a wide variety of additional surfactants useful herein are described in Mccutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers. North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. The cleaning compositions may optionally contain, on a level basis established in the art, other materials that are conventionally used in the cleaning compositions. The physical form of the cleansing compositions is not critical. The compositions can be, for example, formulated as sanitary bars, liquids, shampoos, gels of baths, hair conditioners, hair dyes, pastes or mousses. Sanitary bars are the most preferred since this is the most commonly used cleansing agent used to clean the skin. Rinse cleansing compositions such as shampoos require a delivery system suitable for depositing sufficient levels of active in the skin and scalp. A preferred delivery system involves the use of insoluble complexes. For a more complete description of such delivery systems, see U.S. Pat. 4,835,148, Barford et al., Filed on 30 V- May 20, 1989, incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. As used herein, the term "base" refers to a liquid, semi-liquid, semi-solid, or solid skin cosmetic that includes, but is not limited to lotions, creams, gels, pastes, pastelee and eimilares. Typically the base is used over a large area of the skin, such as over the face, to provide a particular appearance. The bases are typically used to provide an adherent base for colored cosmetics such as blusher red, powder and the like, and tend to hide imperfections of the skin and give the skin a soft and smooth appearance. The bases of the present invention include a dermatologically acceptable vehicle for the vitamin B3 compound and may include conventional ingredients such as oils, dyes, pigments, emollients, fragrances, waxes, stabilizers, and the like. Exemplary vehicles and such other ingredients that are suitable for use herein are described, for example, in the co-pending patent application serial number 08 / 430,961, filed on April 28, 1995 in the name of Marcia L. Canter , Brain D. Barfor, and Brian D.. Hofrichter, incorporated herein by reference. The compositions of the present invention are preferably formulated to have a pH of 10 of 10.5 or less. The pH values of such compositions preferably range from about 2 to about 10.5, more preferably from about 3 to about 8, even more preferably from about 4 to about 7, and also from about 4.5 to about 5.5.

Optional components The topical compositions of the present invention may comprise a wide variety of optional components, since such optional components are physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described in the preamble, and do not unduly damage the usability, efficacy or other benefits of use associated with the compositions of the present invention. All optional ingredients must be compatible with the vitamin B3 compound since its activity does not decrease unacceptably, preferably not at any significant scale, over a useful period (preferably at least about 2 years under normal storage conditions). For example, strong oxidizing agents may be incompatible with the vitamin B3 compound, such that such agents are preferably avoided. The optional components may be disperear, dieted or otherwise similar in the vehicle of the present compositions. The optional components include aesthetic agents and other active agents. For example, the compositions may include absorbent, abraeivoe, anti-caking agents, anti-foam agents, antimicrobial agents, binders, biological additives, pH regulating agents, bulking agents, chemical additives, cosmetic biocides, deenaturing agents, cosmetic astringents, astringent drugs, external analgesics, layer formers, humectants, opacifying agents, fragrances, pigments, dyes, essential oils, skin sensors, emollients, skin soothing agents, skin curing agents, pH adjustors, softeners, preservatives, skin enhancers preservatives, propellants, reducing agents, additional skin conditioning agents, improved skin penetration agents, skin protectants, solvents, suspending agents, emulsifiers, screening agents, solubilizing agents, solar filtering, sun blockers, absorbing agents or scatters of ultraviolet light , sunless tanning agents, antioxidants and / or radical scavengers, chelating agents, inhibitors, anti-acne agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-androgens, depilation agents, scael removers / exfoliators, hydroxy organic acids, vitamins and derivatives thereof. , and extract naturalee. Other materials are known in the art. Non-exclusive examples of such materials are described in Harry's Cos eticology. 73 Ed., Harry & Wilkinson (Hill Publishere, London 1982); at Pharmaceutical Dosage Forme- Dieperse Sys e e: Lieberman, Rieger & Banker, Vole. 1 (1988) & 2 (1989); Marcel Decker, Inc.; in The Chemietry and Manufacture of Coe etics, 23 Ed., of Navarre (Van Nostrand 1962-1965) and in The Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. 13 Ed., Knowl on & Pearce (Elsevier 1993).

It has been discovered that several compounds can negatively impact the benefits of the appearance of the skin if they are not provided by the vitamin B3 compound. Such compounds include ascorbic acid and cysteine acetyl-N. Without intending to be bound or limited by theory, it is believed that such compounds can form long complexes, ie, salts, with the vitamin B3 compound that reduces the availability of the vitamin B3 compound to the skin; it is believed that such complexes have a relatively high molecular weight, which decreases their availability to the skin. Therefore, in one embodiment of the invention, the compositions do not contain such compounds or compounds that are capable of forming similarly long complexes with the vitamin B3 compound. In another embodiment, wherein the composition contains such compounds or compounds that are capable of forming long complexes with the vitamin B3 compound, one or more of the attempts previously described herein are preferred to minimize or prevent the formation of unwanted complexes. For example, the impact of such compounds on the efficacy of the vitamin B3 compound is reduced with a decrease in pH so that pH adjustments can be employed to minimize or obviate such effects. For example, when the composition contains n-acetyl-L-cysteine, the pH of the composition is preferably from about 2 to about 5, more preferably from about 3 to about 4. The pH adjustment to obviate the substantial impacts on the Efficacy is correct within the level of the ordinarily skilled in the art. Specific examples of optional components include the following. The active ingredients useful herein are categorized by their cosmetic and / or therapeutic benefit or their postulated mode of action. However, it should be understood that in the presently useful active ingredients, they may in some cases provide more than one co-ethical and / or therapeutic benefit or operate through more than one mode of action. Therefore, the classifications herein are made for the sake of convenience and are not intended to limit the active ingredient to the particular application or applications listed.

A. Anti-inflammatory agents A safe and effective amount of an anti-inflammatory agent can be added to the compositions of the non-subject invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, of the composition . The anti-inflammatory agent improves the skin appearance benefits of the present invention, ie, such agents contribute to a more uniform skin and an acceptable shade or color. The exact amount of anti-inflammatory agent to be used in the compositions will depend on the particular anti-inflammatory agent used, since talee agents vary widely in potency. Steroidal anti-inflammatory agents may be used, including but not limited to corticosteroids such as hydrocortisone, hydroxyltriamcinolone, alpha-methyldexaxamethasone, dexamethasone-phophate, beta-etheone dipropionate, clobetaeol valerate, desonide, deoxymethasone, deoxycorticosteroin acetate, dexamethasone, dichlorisone, diacetate, diflorasone, diflucortolone valerate, fluadrenolone, fluclorolone acetonide, fludrocortisone, flumethasone pterlate, fluosinolone acetonide, fluocinonide, flucortine butieeteree, fluocortolone, fluprednidene acetate (flupredilidene), flurandrenolone, halcinonide, hydrocortieone acetate, methylprednisolone butyrate, triamcinolone acetonide, cortisone shortdoxone, flucetonide, flucortieone flu, difluoroene diacetate, fluradrenolanal, fludrocortisone, diflurosone diacetate, fluradrenolone acetonide, edrisone, cinnaphel, amcinafide, betamethasone and the rest of his ethers, chloroprednieone, chlorprednisone acetate, clocorteone, clescinolone, dichlorisnoadiflurprednate, flucoronide, flunieolide, fluorometalone, fluperolone, fluprednieolone, hydrocortieone valerate, and cyclopentylpropionate or hydrocortieone, hydrocortamate, eprednieone, parametasone, prednisolone, prednisone, dipropionate of beclomethasone, triamcinolone, and mixture of mieme. The preferred steroidal anti-inflammatory that is used is hydrocortisone. A second class of anti-inflammatory agents that is useful in the compositions includes non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents. The variety of compounds comprised by this group are well known to those skilled in the art. For the detailed description of the chemical structure, synthesis, side effects, etc., of the non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, the reference in the text can be found, including Anti-infImmatory and Anti-Rheumatic Druge. K.D. Raineford, Vol. I-III, CRC Prees, Boca Raton, (1985), and Anti-inflammatory Agents. Chemistry and Pharmacology. 1, R.A. Scherrer, and other Academic Press, New York (1974), each incorporated as reference in the present. Specific non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents useful in the composition of the invention include, but are not limited to: 1) Oxicams, such as peroxicam, isoxica, tenoxicam, eudoxic, and CP-14,304; 2) Salicylates, such as aepirin, diealcide, benorilate, triliate, eafaprim, solprine, diflunisal, and fendosal; 3) Acetic acid derivatives, such as declofenac, fenclofenac, indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin, isoxepac, furofenac, thiopinac, zido ethacine, acetamacin, fentiazac, zomepirac, clindanac, oxepinac, felbinac, and ketorolac; 4) The phenomena, such as efenámica, meclofenámica, flufená ica, niflúmica, and tolfenámicos acids; 5) Propionic acid derivatives, such as ibuprofen, naproxen, benoxaprofen, flurbiprofen, ketoprofen, fenoprofen, fenbufen, indoprofen, pirprofen, carprofen, oxaprozin, pranoprofen, my roprofen, thioxaprofen, suprofen, alminoprofen and thiaprofenic; and 6) Loe pi razóles, such as phenylbutazone, oxifenbutazone, feprazone, azapropazone, and trimetazone. Mixtures of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, as well as dermatologically acceptable salts and esters of such agents can also be used. For example, etofena ato, a flufenamic acid derivative, is particularly useful for topical application. Of the non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, ibuprofen, naproxen, flufenamic acid, etofenamate, aspirin, nefenamic acid, meclofenamic acid, piroxicam and felbin are preferred; more preferred are ibuprofen, naproxen, etofenamate, aspirin and flufenamic acid. Finally, so-called "naturalee" anti-inflammatory agents are useful in the methods of the present invention. Such agents may be suitable for obtaining an extract by physical and / or chemical isolation suitable from natural sources (ie, plants, fungi, micro-organism products). For example, candelilla wax, alpha bisabolo, aloe vera, Manjistha ( extracted from the plants of the genus Rubia, particularly Rubia Cordifolia), and Guggal (extracted from the plants of the genus Commiphora, particularly Commiphora Mukul). kola extract, chamomile and sea cream extract. Adjuvant antiinflammatory agents useful herein include compounds from the licorice family (the genus plant / Glycyrhiza glabra species), including glycyrrheic acid, glycyrrhizic acid, and miemoe derivatives (ie, salee and ethereal). Suitable lae ee of the above compounds include metal and ammonium salts. Suitable esters include C2-C2 saturated or unsaturated esters of the acids, preferably C10 ~ c24 »^ s preferably C16 ~ C24- Specific examples of the above compounds include oil-soluble licorice extract, glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetinic mieme, glycyrrhizinate of monoammonium, monopotassium glycyrrhizinate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 1-beta-chiriretic acid, stearyl glycyrrheinate, and 3-stearyloxy-glycyrrhetinic acid, and disodium 3-succinyloxy-beta-glycyrrhetynate. Etherete glycyrrheinate is preferred.

B. Retinoids In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention also contain a retinoid. The vitamin B3 compound and the retinoid provide unexpected benefits in the regulation of the condition of the skin, especially in therapeutically regulating the signs of skin aging, more especially wrinkles, lines, and pores. Without attempting to be bound or otherwise limited by theory, it is believed that the vitamin B3 compound increases the conversion of certain retinoids into transretinoic acid, which is believed to be the biologically active form of the retinoid, to provide cinergistic regulation of skin condition (ie, increased conversion for retinol, esteree of retinol, and retinal). In addition, the vitamin B3 compound ineffectively mitigates inflammation by redness, deratitis and eilamylation that may otherwise be associated with the topical application of the retinoid (often referred to as, and hereinafter alternatively referred to as "retinoid dermatitis"). In addition, the combined vitamin B3 compound and the retinoid tend to increase the amount of thioredoxin activity, which tends to increase the average collagen expression levels of the AP-1 protein. Therefore, the present invention allows to reduce the active levels, and therefore reduce the potential for retinoid dermatitis, since it retains the benefits of positive skin conditioning important. In addition, higher levels of retinoid can still be used to obtain a better skin conditioning efficiency without undesirable retinoid dermatitis.

As used herein, "retinoid" includes all natural and / or synthetic analogues of vitamin A or retinol-like compounds that possess the biological activity of vitamin A in the skin as well as the geometric isomers and stereoisomers of such compounds . The retinoid is preferably retinol, retinol esters (ie, C2-C22 alkyl ester of retinol, including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate), retinal, and / or retinoic acid (including retinoic acid and / or acid). 13- cis-retinoic acid), more preferably retinoids other than retinoic acid. Such compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a source number, ie; Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO), and Boerhinger Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN). Other retinoids which are useful herein are described in the patent of the E.U.A. No. 4,677,120, filed June 30, 1987 by Parish et al .; 4,885,311, filed December 5, 1989, by Parish et al .; 5,049,584, filed September 17, 1991, by Purcell et al .; 5,124,356, filed June 23, 1993, by Purcell et al .; and reprint 34,075, filed September 22, 1992 by Pureell et al. Other suitable retinoids are tocopheryl retinoate [tocopherol ether of retinoic acid (trans- or ce-), adapalene 6- [3- (l-adamantyl) -4-methoxyphenyl] -2-naphthoic acid} , and tazarotene (ethyl-6 [2- (4,4-dimethylthiochroman-6-yl) -etinyl] nicotinate). One or more retinoids can be used in the present. Preferred retinoids are retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinal and combinations thereof. Retinol and retinyl palmitate are the most preferred. The retinoid may be included as the euberantly pure material, or as an extract obtained by physical and / or chemical correcting from the natural sources (ie, plant). The retinoid is preferably subetancially pure, more preferably essentially pure. The compositions of the present invention may contain a safe and effective amount of the retinoid, such that the resulting composition is safe and effective in regulating the condition of the skin, preferably to regulate visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the skin., more preferably to regulate the signs of aging of the skin, even more preferably to regulate the discontinuous and / or tactile discontinuities in the skin texture associated with the aging of the skin. The compositions preferably contain from or about 0.005% up to or about 2%, more preferably 0.01% up to or about 2% retinoid. Retinol is most preferably used in an amount of or about 0.01% up to or about 0.15%; the retinol esters are more preferably used in an amount of or about 0.01% up to or about 2% (i.e., about 1%); the retinoic acids are more preferably used in an amount of or about 0.01% up to or about 0.25%; tocoperol-retinoateCtocoperol ester of each retinoic acid (trans-or cis), adapalene (6-C3- (l-adamantyl) -4-methoxypentyl] -2- naphthoic acid), and tazaronete are more preferably used in an amount of or approximately 0.01% up to or about 2%. When the composition contains a retinoid, the vitamin B3 compound is preferably used in an amount of or about 01% to or about 10%, more preferably of or about 2% to or about 5%.

C. Microbial Agents As used herein, "anti-microbial agent" means a compound capable of destroying microbes, preventing the development of microbes or preventing the pathogenic action of microbes. Anti-microbial agents are useful, for example, to control acne. A safe and effective amount of an antimicrobial agent can be added to the compositions of the present invention, preferably from about 0.001% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.0.1% to about 5%, also from about 0.05% to about 2% or from about 0.05% to about 1% of the compositions. Preferred antimicrobial agents useful in the present invention are benzoyl peroxide, erothromycin, tetracycline, clindamycin, azelaic acid, and sulfur resorcinol.

D. Antiandrogens As used herein, "antiandrogen" means a compound capable of correcting androgen-related disorders by interfering with the action of androgens on their target organs. The objective organ for the present invention is the mammalian skin. The antiandrogen constituents include pregnenalone (and its derivatives), hops extract, substituted oxygenated bicycloalkanes (ie, ethoxymethyl-bicyclooctanones talee as lae commercialized by Chantal Pharmaceutical of Los Angeles, CA under the name ETHOCYN and CY0CT0L, and 2- (5-ethoxy he? Tl-yl) bicyclo [3.3.0] -octanone), and oleanolic acid. Suitable antiandrogens are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,689,345 and 4,855,322, both filed by Kasha et al. On August 25, 1987 and August 08, 1989, respectively, each incorporated herein by reference.

E. Sunscreens and eolar blockers Exposure to ultraviolet light can result in excessive scaling and changes in the texture of the corneal extract. Therefore, the compositions of the subject invention preferably contain a sunscreen or sunscreen. The right sunscreens or sunscreens can be organic or inorganic.

A wide variety of conventional eolar filter agents are suitable for use herein. Saga rin, and others, in chapter VIII, page 189 and eubeecuentee; from Cosmetics Science and Technology (1972), describes numerous suitable agents, and is incorporated herein by reference. Specific suitable eolar filter agents include, for example: p-aminobenzoic acid, its salts and its derivatives (ethyl, isobutyl, glyceryl esters, p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid); antiranylates (ie o-amino-benzoate, methyl, menthyl, phenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, linalyl, terpintyl, and cyclohexenyl ether); ealicilatoe (amyl ether, phenyl, octyl, benzyl, methyl, glyceryl, and di-propylene glycol); cinnamic acid derivative (esteree methyl and benzyl; a-phenyl cinna onitrile; butilcinna oil pyruvate); derivative of dihydroxycinnamic acid (umbelliferone, methylumbelliferone, ethylaceto-umbelliferone); trihydroxycinnico acid derivatives (esculetin, etailesculetin, daphnetin, and glucosidae, eeculin and daphnin); hydrocarbon (diphenylbutadiene stilbene); dibenzalacetone and benzalacetophenone; naphtholsulfonates sodium salts 2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid and 2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid); di-hydroxynaphthoic and its salts o- and p-hydroxybiphenyldisulfonates; Doumarin derivatives (7-hydroxy, 7-methyl, 3-phenyl); diazoles (2-acetyl-3-bromoindazole, phenylbenzoxazole, methylnftoxazole, various aryl benzothiazoles); salee of quinine (bieulfato, eulfato, chloride, oleato, and tannato); eleae quinoline derivatives of 8-hydroxyquinoline 2-phenylquinoline); hydroxy- or methoxy-substituted benzophenones; uric and violuric acids; acid tannic and derivative suee (ie, hexaethylether); (Butyl carbotol) (6-propyl ether piperonyl), hydroquinone, benzophenone (oxybenzene, sulisobenzone, dioxybenzone, benzo resorcinol, 2,2 ', 4,4'-ethylhydroxybenzofenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-di ethoxybenzofenone, octabenzone, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, butyl ethoxydibenzoylmethane, ethocrylene; Octocrylene; C3- (4'-methylbenzylidene boman-2-one) and 4-isopropyl-di-benzoylmethane, Of this, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (commercially available as PARSOL MECX), 4,4'-t-butylmethoxydibenzoyl -methane (commercially available as PARSOL 1789), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octylidimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, digaloitrioleate, 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzofenone, ethyl-4- (bis (hydroxypropyl) aminobenzoate) , 2-e-hexy-l-2-cyano-3, 3-di-phenylacrylate, 2-ethyl-exi-1-ealicylate, glyceryl-p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-tri-methyl-cyclohexyl-alkylate, methylanthranilate p-dimethyl- aminobenzoic aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethyl-amino-benzoate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2- (p-dimethylaminophenyl) -5-eulphonicbenzoxazoic acid, octocylene and are preferred the mixtures of such compounds. The most preferred useful organic sunscreens in the useful compositions of the present invention are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoyl-methane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo-f-enone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-eulphonic acid, octylmethyl acid. -p-aminobenzoic acid, octocrylene and mixtures thereof. Also particularly useful in compositions are sunscreen filters such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,937, 370 filed by Sabatelli on June 26, 1990, and the US patent. No. 4,999,186 filed by Sabatelli & Spirnak on March 12, 1991, both incorporated herein by reference. The sunscreen agents described therein have a single molecule, two distinct chromophore portions that show different spectra of ultraviolet radiation absorption. One of the chromophore portions absorbs predominantly on the UVB radiation scale and the other absorbs strongly on the UVA radiation scale. The preferred members of this class of sunscreen agents are 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone; N, N-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -4-aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxy-dibenzoylmethane; 4-N, N, (2-ethylhexyl) methyl-aminobenzoic ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane; 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methyl-aminobenzoic acid estes of 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone, 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) -methylaminobenzoic acid ester of 4- (2 -hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane; N, N, di- (2-ethylhexyl) -4-aminobenzoic acid ester of 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone; and N, N-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -4-aminobenzoic acid ester of 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof.

Suitable inorganic sunscreen or sunscreens include metal oxides, i.e. zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. For example, the use of a titanium dioxide in topical sunscreen compositions, which is applicable in the present invention is described in the co-pending application with serial No. 08 / 448,942, filed on May 24, 1995, in name by Jiang Yue, Lisa R. Dew and Donald L. Bissett, incorporated herein by reference. Particularly preferred are sunscreens or sunscreens which include metal oxides such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-ethylexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid, and octocrylene. A safe and effective amount of the sunscreen or sunblock is used, typically from about 1% to about 20%, more typically from about 2% to about 10%. The exact amounts will vary depending on the sunscreen selected and the desired sun protection factor (SPF). An agent can also be added to any of the compositions useful in the present invention to improve the suetantive character of skin compositions, particularly to improve its resistance to washing or carving with water. A preferred agent that will provide such a benefit is a copolymer of ethylene and acrylic acid. The compositions comprising such a copolymer are described in US Pat. 4,663,157, Brock, filed May 5, 1987, which is incorporated in the preamble as a reference.

F. Removal of antioxidants / radicals [0050] Preferred compositions of the present invention include as active an antioxidant / radical eliminator in addition to the primary active agents. The antioxidant / radical eliminator is especially useful to provide protection against UV radiation, which can cause an increase in flaking or texture changes in the corneous extract and against other environmental agents that can cause skin damage. A safe and effective amount of an antioxidant / radical scavenger can be added to the compositions of the present invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% of the composition. Radical wave ethoxylating scavengers such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its salts, ascorbyl esters or acid graeoe, ascorbic acid derivatives (ie, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol sorbate, other products, may be used. ethereal of tocopherol, butylated and hydroxybenzoic acid eue ealee, 6-hydroxy-2,, 7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (commercially available under the tradename Trolox®), gallic acid and eus alkyl esters, especially propylgalate, uric acid and salts and alkylesters, sorbic acid and sueealee, amine (ie, N, N-diethylhydroxylamine, to inoguanidine), compotetoe of eulfidril (i.e., glutathione), dihydroxy fumaric acid and its salts, licina pidalate, arginine pilolate , nordihydroguaiarético acid, bioflavonoides, lysine, methionine, proline, superoxide disutaea, sislimarin, tea extracts, skin extracts of a grape seed, melanin, and extracts of rice marin or. Preferred antioxidant / radical scavengers are selected from tocopherol ethoxide and other ethers of tocopherol, preferably tocopherol sorbate. For example, the use of tocopherol sorbate in topical compositions and applicable to the present invention are described in US Pat. No. 4,847,071, filed July 11, 1989, by Donald L. Biesett, Rodney D. Bush, and Ranjit Chatterjee, incorporated herein by reference.

G. Chelators As used herein, "chelating agent" means an active agent capable of removing a metal ion from a system by forming a complex such that the metal ion can not participate or catalyze chemical reactions. The inclusion of the chelating agent is especially useful to provide protection against UV radiation that can contribute to excessive scaling or change of texture in the skin and against other environmental agents that can cause skin damage.

A safe and effective amount of a chelating agent can be added to the compositions of the present invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% of the composition. Exemplary chelators that are useful herein are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,487,884, filed on 1/30/96 of Biseet and otroe; International publication No. 91/16035, Bueh et al., published on 10/31/95; and international publication No. 91/16034, Bush et al., published 10/31/95; all incorporated herein by reference. Preferred chelators are used in the compositions of the subject invention with furryldioxy and derivatives thereof.

H. Organic isoxy acids The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise an organic hydroxy acid. Suitable hydroxy acids include hydroxy acids of CI.-C: L8, preferably C8 or lower. The hydroxy acids can be substituted or unsubstituted, straight chain, branched chain or cyclic (preferably straight chain), and saturated or unsaturated (mono- or poly-unsaturated) (preferably cured). Non-limiting examples of suitable hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, 5-octanoylsalicylic acid, hydroxyoctanoic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, and lanolin fatty acids. The preferred concentrations of hydroxy organic acid ranges from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, also preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%. Salicylic acid is preferred. The organic hydroxy acids improve the appearance benefits of the skin of the present invention. For example, hydroxy organic acids tend to improve the texture of the skin. 1. Flake / Exfoliating Alimentary Agents An effective and effective amount of a scale removing agent is preferably added to the compositions of the present invention, more preferably of from about 0.1% to about 10%, even more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, also preferably from about 0.5% to about 4% of the composition. Scale removing agents improve the benefits of the skin appearance of the present invention. For example, scale removing agents tend to improve the texture of the skin (ie, softness). A variety of scale eliminating agents are known in the art and are suitable for use herein, including but not limited to the organic and hydroxy agents described above. A scale removal system that is suitable for use herein comprises sulfhydryl compounds and zwitterionic surfactants and are disclosed in copending application Serial No. 08 / 480,632, filed on June 7, 1995 on behalf of Donald L. Bisset, which corresponds to the PCT application No. EUA 95/08136, filed on 6/29/95, each incorporated herein by reference. Another scale removal system which is suitable for use herein comprises a salicylic acid and surfactant and zwitterionic agents and is disclosed in co-pending patent application Serial No. 08 / 554,944, filed on November 13, 1995 as a continuation of serial No. 08 / 209,401, filed on March 9, 1994 in the name of Bisset, which corresponds to PCT application No. 94/12745, filed on 4/11/94 published on 5/18/95 , each incorporated herein by reference. The surfactants and zwitterionic agents as described in such applications are useful as scavenging agents, herein with cetyl betaine being particularly preferred.

J. Hair Removal Agents The compositions of the present invention may include a safe and effective amount of a depilation agent. When used, the composition preferably contains from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, also preferably from about 0.5% to about 2% depilation agent. A preferred hair removal agent for use herein comprises a sulfhydryl composition, ie, N-acetyl-L-cieteine. The date of the hair removal agent is described in more detail in the co-pending application with issue No. 08 / 479,878, filed on June 7, 1995, in the name of Greg G. Hillebrand and Vladimir Gartstein, which corresponds to the application for PCT No. EUA 95/07311, filed on 6/8/95, each incorporated herein by reference.

K. Skin Lightening Agents The compositions of the present invention may comprise a skin lightening agent. When such an agent is used, the compositions preferably comprise from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, also preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%, and a skin lightening agent. Suitable skin clearance agents include those known in the art, including kojic acid, arbutin, ascorbic acid, and derivatives of the miemos, i.e. magneeium ascorbylphophate. Suitable skin-lightening agents for use herein also include those described in co-pending patent application Serial No. 08 / 479,935, filed on June 7, 1995 in the name of Hillebrand, corresponding to the Application for the PCT No. US 95/07432, filed on 12/12/95; and the co-pending patent application with Serial No. 08 / 390,152, filed on February 24, 1995 in the names of Kalla L. Kvalnee, Mitchell A. DeLong, Barton J. Bradbury, Curtie B. Motley, and John D. Carter, corresponding to the PCT Application No. US 95/02809, filed 3/1/95, published 9/8/95; all incorporated herein by reference.

L. Zinc salts The compositions of the present invention may further comprise a zinc eal. The zinc eels are especially preferred where the composition contains a sulfhydryl compound, ie N-acetyl-L-cysteine. Without intending to be limited or bound by theory, it is believed that the zinc salt acts as a chelating agent capable of complexing with the sulfhydryl compound prior to topical application, stabilizes the sulfhydryl compound and / or controls the odor associated with the composed of sulfhydryl. The zinc salt concentrations may vary from about 0.001% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight of the composition. Preferred zinc salts include zinc acetate, zinc acetate hydrates such as zinc acetate dihydrate, zinc and aluminum oxide complexes such as gannet, zinc diamine, zinc antimonide, zinc bromate hydrates such as zinc hexamate hexahydrate, zinc bromide, zinc carbonates such as zincapar and smithsonite, zinc chlorate hydrates such as zinc chlorate tetrahydrate, zinc chloride, and zinc diamine chloride, zinc citrate, zinc chromate, zinc dichromate, zinc diphosphate, zinc ferrato-hexacyanofluoride (II), zinc fluoride, zinc fluoride hydrates such as zinc fluoride tetrahydrate, zinc format, zinc format hydrates such as zinc format of zinc dihydrate, zinc hydroxide, zinc iodate, zinc iodate hydrate such as zinc iodate dihydrate, zinc iodide, zinc oxide and iron complexes, zinc nitrate hydrates such as zinc nitrate zinc hexahydrate, zinc nitride, zinc oxalate hydrates such as zinc oxalate dihydrate, zinc oxide such as zincite, zinc perchlorate hydrates such as zinc perchlorate hexahydrate, zinc permanganate hydrates, such as permanganate zinc hexahydrate, zinc peroxide, zinc p-genosulfate hydrates such as zinc p-phenosulfate octahydrate, zinc phosphate, zinc phosphate hydrates, such as zinc phosphate tetrahydrate, zinc phosphide, zinc propionate , zinc celenate hydrates such as zinc celenate such as zinc celenate pentahydrate, zinc selenide, zinc silicate such as zinc silicate (2) and zinc silicate (4), silicon hydrous oxide complexes zinc such as the imorphite, zinc hexafluorosilicate hydrates such as zinc hexafluorosilicate hexahydrate, zinc stearate, zinc sulfate, zinc sulfate hydrate such as zinc sulfate heptahydrate, zinc sulphide, zinc sulphite hydrate such as zinc sulfite dihydrate, zinc tellurium, zinc thiocyanate, zinc (II) salee of N-acetyl L-cieteine, and mixtures thereof. Especially preferred are zinc salts which include a zinc citrate, zinc oxide, zinc chloride, zinc acetate, zinc stearate, zinc sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Zinc citrate is especially preferred.

M. Moisturizers, Moisturizers and Skin Conditioners The compositions of the present invention may further comprise a humectant, moisturizing agent or other skin conditioning agent. A variety of such materials may be employed and each may be present at a level of from or about 0.1% to or about 20%, more preferably from or about 1% to or about 10%, and more preferably from or about 2% to or approximately 5%. Talee materialee include guanidine, glycolic acid and glycollate ealee (ie, ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); lactic acid and lactate salts (ie, ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); aloe vera in any of its variety of forms (ie aloe vera gel); polyhydroxy alcohols such as sorbitol, glycerol, hexanetriol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and the like; polyethylene glycols; sugars and starches; sugars derived from starch (i.e., alkoxylated glucose); hyaluronic acid; lactam monoethanolamine; acetamido monoethanolamine; and mixtures of the same. The propoxylated glycerols described in the U.S. Pat. No. 4,976,953 is also useful in the preamble, the definition of which is incorporated herein by reference. Monoesteree and polyester sugar from C1-C30 sugar and related materials are also useful. Such esters are derived from a sugar or polyol portion and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, such esters may be in liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples of liquid substances include: glucose tetraoleate, soybean oil (unsaturated) fatty acid glycoside tetraesters, mixed soybean oil fatty acid tetraesters, galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, arabinose tetraesterenes of linoleic acid, tetralinoleate texiloea, galactoea pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, the hexaesters of eorbitol of the acidic grains of unsaturated soybean oil, eylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, saccharoea hexaoleate, sucrose epatoleate, octaoleate of sucrose, and mixtures thereof. Examples of the solid ester include: sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid ester portions are palmitoleate and arachidized in a molar ratio of 1: 2; the octaester of raffinose in which the carboxylic acid ester portions are linoleate and benate in a molar ratio of 1: 3; the maltose heptaester wherein the carboxylic acid portions esterify with fatty acids of sunflower seed oil and lignocerate in a molar ratio of 3: 4; the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are oleate and benate in a molar ratio of 2: 6; and the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1: 3: 4. A preferred solid material is the sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid portions are C18 mono- and / or di-unsaturated and behenicae, in a molar ratio of ineaturated : behenico from 1: 7 to 3: 5. A preferred feature of the solid sugar polyester is the sucrose octaester in which there are approximately seven portions of behenic fatty acid of about one portion of oleic acid in the molecule. Ester materials are further described in U.S. Pat. No. 2,831,854, U.S. Pat. No. 4,005,196, Jandacek, filed January 25, 1977, U.S. Pat. No. 4,005,195, Jandacek, filed January 25, 1977, U.S. Pat. No. 5,306,516, to Letton et al., Filed April 26, 1994; the Patent of E.U.A. No. 5,306,515, to Letton et al., Filed April 26, 1994, U.S. Patent No. 5,306,515. No. 5,305,514, to Letton et al., Filed April 26, 1994; the U.S. Patent No. 4,797,300 of Jandacek et al., Filed on January 10, 1989, the Patent of E.U.A. No. 3,963,699, to Rizzi et al., Filed June 15, 1976; the U.S. Patent No. 4,518,772, Volpenhein, filed May 21, 1985; and the U.S. Patent. No. 4,517,360 to Volpehein, filed May 21, 1985; all incorporated as reference in the present in its entirety.

N. Other optional components The compositions of the present invention may also include an extract obtained from physical and / or chemical insolation suitable from natural sources (ie, plants, fungi, products derived from microorganisms), including those known in the art. topical technique of the perioonal chlorine. Preferred extracts are those that improve the benefit of the skin appearance of the present invention, and that are preferably used in a safe and effective amount, more preferably in an amount of 0.1% to about 20%, even more preferably 0, 5% up to about 10%, also from 1% up to about 5%. Such extracts include plant extracts and fungi such as yeast extracts, rice bran, and Centella asiatica. Centella asiatica extracts are preferred and are commercially available from MMP, Inc. of Plainfield, New Jersey under the trade name Centella Asiatica E.P.C.A. ("Purified Extract of Centella asiatica") and Genines to him. Genines amel is the purest form of the extract. Comets which are known to stimulate collagen production can also be used in the present invention. Such compounds include factor X (kinetin), factor Z (zeatin), n-methyl taurine, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, palmitoyl hydroxy wheat protein, biopeptide CL (palmitoyl glycyl-histidinyl-lysine), ASC III (collagen synthesis amplifier III, E. Merck, Germany), and beta-glucan. The compositions herein may also include natural ceramides or the like, for example, ceramide 1-6. The compositions may also contain an oil absorber as is known in the art, ie, clays (ie, bentonites) and polymeric absorbers, i.e. MICROSPONGES 5647 and POLYTRAP, commercially available from Advanced Polymer Systeme, Inc. of Redwood City, California, USA MICROSPONGES 5647 is a mixture of polymer derived from etherene, methyl methacrylate, and hydrogel acrylate / ethacrylate. Other examples of additional components useful herein include the present: water-soluble vitamins and derivatives thereof Cee say, vitamin C]; polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols; polymers to assist the film-forming properties and substantively of the composition (such as a copolymer of eicosene and vinylpyrrolidone, an example in which they are available from GAF Chemical Corporation as Ganex® V-220). Also useful are reticulated and non-crosslinked, nonionic and cationic polyacrylamides i.e., Saleare SC92 having polyquaternium 32 (y) mineral oil with CTFA designation, and Saleare SC 95 having polycatenium 37 (y) mineral oil (y) PPF-1 trideceth-6 with CTFA designation, and the polyacrylamides seppi-Gel nonionicae dieponiblee from Seppic Corp]. The polymers and copolymers of crosslinked and non-crosslinked carboxylic acid are also useful since they contain one or more monomers derived from acrylic acids, substituted acrylic acids, and ealees and ethers of such acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids, wherein the crosslinked agents contain two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and ee are derived from a polyhydric alcohol (useful examples in the present include carbons, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with allyl ethers of saccharoea or pentaerythritol and which are available as the series Carbopol® 900 by BF Goodrich, and copolymer of alkyl acrylates C ± o-30 with one or more acrylic acid monomers, methacrylic acid, or one of its short chains (ie alcohol C-L_4) esters, wherein the The crosslinking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaeri ritol, such copolymers being known as acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylates. ilato and commercially available as Carbopol® 1342, Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2, from B.F. Goodrich). Such carboxylic acid polymers and copolymers are described in more detail in U.S. Pat. No. 5,087,444, by Haffey et al.; filed on February 11, 1992; the U.S. patent No. 4,509,949, by Huang et al .; filed on April 5, 1985; the U.S. patent No. 2,798,053, by Broen, filed July 2, 1957; which are incorporated herein by reference. See also, CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary. Fourth Edition, 1991, pp. 12 and 80; which is also incorporated herein by reference. Esthetic components such as lae fragrance, pigments, dyes, essential oils, skin sensors, astringents, skin softening agents, skin healing agents and the like are also useful herein, the non-limiting examples of compounding a eetéticoe includes clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, methyl lactate, distilled water, bieabolol, glycyrrhizinate of potaeio and eimilaree.

Preparation of Compositions The compositions of the present invention are generally prepared by conventional methods such as those known in the art for making topical compositions. Such methods typically involve mixing the ingredients in one or more steps in a relatively uniform state, with or without heating, cooling, vacuum application, and eimilaree.

Method for regulating the condition of the skin The compositions of the present invention are also useful for regulating the condition of the skin of mammals (especially human skin, more specifically human facial skin), including visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the skin. skin, signs of skin aging, and visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the skin associated with skin aging (including thin lines, wrinkles, large pores, porous surface or other texture discontinuities associated with that of the skin) . Such regulation includes therapeutic prophylactic regulation. Regulating the condition of the skin involves applying topically to the skin a safe and effective amount of a composition of the present invention. The amount of the composition to be applied, the frequency of application and the period of use will vary widely depending on the level of the vitamin B3 compound and / or other components of a given composition and the level of regulation desired, i.e. light of the level of aging of the skin present in the subject and the relationship of more aging of the skin. In a preferred embodiment, the composition is chronically applied to the skin. By "chronic topical application" is meant a continuous topical application of the composition over a long period of time during the life of the subject, preferably for the period of at least one week, more preferably for a period of at least about 1 month, still more preferably for at least about 3 months, even more preferably for at least about 6 months, and more preferably still at least about 1 year. Since the benefits are obtained after various maximum periods of use (ie, 5, 10, or 20 years, it is preferred that the chronic application continue during the subject's lifetime.) Applications would typically be in the order of approximately one time. per day during such extended periods, however, the application rates may vary from about 1 per week to about three times per day or more.A wide scale amounts of the composition of the present invention can be employed to provide a benefit of skin appearance and / or sensation The amounts of the present compositions that are typically placed per application are, in skin mg composition / c 2 from about 0.1 mg / cm2 to about 10 mg / cm2. useful is approximately 2 mg / cm2 The condition to regulate the skin is preferably practiced by applying a composition in the form of a lotion, cream, cosmetic, or if you intend to leave on the skin for otivoe aesthetic benefits, prophylactic, as therapeutic or other benefit (ie, a "complete" composition). After applying the composition to the skin, it is preferably left on the skin for a period of at least about 15 minutes, more preferably at least about 30 minutes, even more preferably at least about 1 hour, more preferably for at least several hours , that is, up to approximately 12 hours.

EXAMPLES The following examples further describe and demonstrate the embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples will be for the purpose of illustration only and do not bind the limitations of the present invention, since various variations are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

EXAMPLE 1 A skin cream is prepared by conventional methods from the following components.

EXAMPLE 1 (CONTINUED) Mix the components of phase A with a suitable mixer (ie model Tekmar RW20DZM9, heat while stirring at a temperature of 70-80 ° C. Separately, mix the components of phase B with a suitable mixer and heat without mixing to blend the components separately mix the components of phase C and grind to obtain an acceptably soft mixture (ie, using a Tekmar T50 mill) Add the mixture from phase C to the mixture of phase B and mix. Then add the resulting mixture to the mixture of phase A with the mixture, cool with cold water from the bath and grind, then continue stirring.Remove the bath combination, with continuous agitation, once the temperature reaches 40 ° C. Separately, mix the components of phase D until they dissolve, then add to the AC material combination, separately mix the components of phase E until they are smooth and continuous. spuée add the combination of materials A-D. Add and mix the fragrance, then the NOH. Adjust the pH as necessary until . 5. Apply the composition to the skin rooted, aged, or photodamaged facial skin of a subject or skin ratio 2 mg composition / cm2 once or twice daily for a period of at least 3-6 months to reduce the thin and entrenched lines and improve the texture of the skin surface.

EXAMPLE 2 An emulsion is prepared by conventional methods from the following components: Form the aqueous phase into a suitable glass filled with water in the following manner: add the glycerin and then the niacinamide to the water by means of stirring. Add to this mixture by means of stirring the paraben dissolved in the benzyl alcohol. Add EDTA to this mixture with agitation. Form the silicone faeus into a separate suitable beaker by adding and stirring the silicone fluids together.

Add the aqueous phase to the silicone phase slowly with agitation to form the emulsion. Apply the resulting composition to the rooted, aged, or photodamaged facial skin of a subject in a skin ratio 2 mg mg / cm2 composition once or twice daily for a period of at least 3-6 months to reduce thin lines and wrinkles and improve the texture of the surface of the skin.

EXAMPLE 3 A skin cream is prepared by conventional methods from the following components.

EXAMPLE 3 (CONTINUED) * A monoester or polyester of sugar C1-C30 and one or more carboxylic acid as described herein, preferably a polyester of sucrose in which the degree of esterification is 7-8, and in which the portions of acid fatty acids are C18 mono- and / or di-unsaturated and behenic, in a molar ratio of unsaturated: behenic from 1: 7 to 3: 5, more preferably the octaester of saccharoea in which there are approximately 7 portions of behenic fatty acid of approximately a portion of oleic acid in the molecule, ie, sucrose ester of cottonseed oil fatty acids. Mix the components of phase A with a suitable mixer (ie, model Tekmar RW20DZM), heating them while stirring at a temperature of about 70-80 ° C. Add the cetylhydroxyethylcellulose and methylparaben with a mixture at approximately 70-80 ° C to fuse the components. Separately, mix the components of phase C and grind to obtain an acceptably mild mixture (ie, using a Tekmar TSO mill). Add the mixture from phase C to the previous mixture and mix. Remove the bath combination, with continuous agitation, once the temperature reaches approximately 45 ° C. Add the dimethicone and mix. Separately mix the components of phase E and mix until they are smooth and continuous, then add them to the previous mixture. Then add and mix the NaOH in the benzyl alcohol. Adjust the pH as necessary up to 7. Apply the composition to the aged wrinkled, or photodamaged skin of a subject in the skin ratio of 2 mg composition / cm2 one or doe vecee daily for a period of at least 3-6 meeee to reduce Thin lines and wrinkles and improve the texture of the skin surface.

EXAMPLE 4 A skin cream is prepared by conventional methods from the following components.

* See example 3 Mix the components of phase A with a suitable mixer (ie model Tekmar RW20DZM). Mix the components of phase B in phase A with a suitable mixer. Separately, mix the components of phase C until they are uniform. Add the mixture of phase C to the mixture of phase A / B, mix until uniform and emulsified, and then grind to obtain an acceptably mild mixture (ie, using a Tekmar T50 mill). Apply the composition to wrinkled, intrinsically aged, or photodamaged facial skin of a subject in skin ratio 2 mg composition / cm2 once or twice daily for a period of at least 3-6 meeee to improve the texture of the surface of the skin. the skin, including the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles. An alternative skin cream that has reduced retinol levels can be prepared in the same way from the above components, where retinol is added in an amount of 0.025% (0.25% 10% retinol in soybean oil). ), cbp 100% with water, the amounts of the other components being as shown. Since the particle modes of the present invention have been determined it will be obvious to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications can be made to the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is intended to cover, in the appended claims, such modifications that are within the scope of the present invention.

Claims (10)

NOVELTY OF THE INVENTION CLAIMS

1. - A method of regulating the discontinuous and / or tactile discontinuities in the texture of the skin of mammals, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin of a mammal of a safe and effective amount of a composition comprising: (a) a safe and effective amount of an asset to regulate such discontinuities, such active consisting essentially of a vitamin B3 compound and (b) a vehicle for said asset.

2. A method of regulating the pore size of the skin of mammals, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin of a mammal of a safe and effective amount of a composition comprising: (a) a safe and effective amount of a vitamin B3 compound; and (b) a vehicle for such a vitamin B3 compound.

3. A method for regulating the condition of the skin, preferably by regulating the visible and / or tactile discontinuities in the texture of the skin, more preferably by regulating wrinkles, lines, and / or pore size of the skin, further characterized because it comprises the application to the skin of a mammal of a safe and effective amount of a composition comprising: (a) a safe and effective amount, ranging from 2% to 5%, of a vitamin B3 compound; (b) an effective and effective amount of a retinoid; and (c) a vehicle for such vitamin B3 compound and such retinoid.

4. The method according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the 5 Vitamin B3 compound is selected from niacinamide, "» Niacinamide derivatives, non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, and combinations thereof, preferably selected from niacinamide, tocopherol nicotinate, and combinations thereof, preferably preferably niacinamide.

5. The method according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the vitamin B3 compound is substantially free of salts of the vitamin B3 compound and / or is substantially incomplete.

6. The method according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the vehicle comprises a hydrophilic diluent.

7. The method according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the composition further comprises a compound selected from The group consisting of: (a) hydroxy acids, preferably salicylic acid; (b) scavenging agents, preferably selected from a teneoactive agent and zwitterionic; (c) solar filters, preferably selected from zinc oxide, and titanium oxide, PARSOL 25 1789, PARSOL MCX, phenylbenzyl idazolesulfonic acid, octocrylene and combinations thereof; (d) antioxidants, pPARSOL 1789, PARSOL MCX, sulfonic acid phenylbenzimidazole, octocrylene and combinations thereof; (d) antioxidants, preferably selected from tocopherol esters; and combinations thereof.

8. The method according to claim 2, further characterized in that the composition further comprises a retinoid preferably selected from retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl proprionate, retinal and combinations thereof, more preferably selected from retinol , retinyl palmitate, and combinations thereof.

9. A topical composition suitable for regulating the condition of the skin, further characterized in that it comprises: (a) a safe and effective amount, ranging from 2% to 5%, of a vitamin B3 compound, selected from niacinamide, derivative of niacinamide, non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, and combinations thereof, more preferably selected from niacinamide, tocopherol nicotinate, and combinations thereof, more preferably niacinamide; such a compound of vitamin B3 preferably being substantially free of salts of the vitamin B3 compound and / or subetanially incomplete; (b) a safe and effective amount, preferably from 0.01% to 2%, of a retinoid, preferably selected from retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl proprionate, retinal and combinations thereof, most preferably selected from retinol , retinyl palmitate and combinations thereof; and (c) a carrier for such vitamin B3 compound and such retinoid, such vehicle preferably comprising a hydrophilic diluent.

10. The composition according to claim 9, further characterized in that the composition further comprises a compound selected from the group consisting of: (a) hydroxy acids, preferably salicylic acid; (b) scale removing agents, preferably selected from zwitterionic surfactants; (c) sunscreens, preferably selected from zinc oxide, titanium oxide, PARSOL 1789, PARSOL MCX, sulfonicophenylbenzimidazole acid, octocrylene and combinations thereof; (d) antioxidants, preferably selected from tocopherol esters; and combinations of the mimes.