MXPA97006795A - Vehicle anhydro of application of ingredients cosmeti - Google Patents

Abstract

In this invention, an anhydrous delivery vehicle for applying a cosmetic or functionally active ingredient to human skin is presented. The anhydrous supply vehicle contains from 5 to 30% by weight of a high melting wax, from 5 to 30% by weight of an acetylated monoglyceride, from 5 to 60% by weight of petrolatum, from 0.1 to 30% by weight of a fatty alcohol that has 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and a cosmetic material or active ingredient

Description

ANHYDRO VEHICLE FOR THE APPLICATION OF COSMETIC INGREDIENTS DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION This invention relates to an anhydrous delivery vehicle for applying cosmetic or functionally active ingredients to human skin. Formulations of sticks containing pigments dispersed in wax and oil bonds have been used to apply cosmetic ingredients to the skin since ancient times, lipsticks and colored bars are the oldest form of cosmetic bars. The bar formulations can be classified into four primary types: alcohol gels, polyol gels, alcohol and wax gels and wax-fat-oil bars. Many deodorant bar systems are based on alcohol gel with sodium stearate. An important disadvantage of this kind of bar is that alcohol tends to evaporate which changes the properties of the bar over time. Polyols such as glycerol and propylene glycol have been used to reduce the rate of alcohol evaporation. Unfortunately alcohol etherate bars are incompatible with some active ingredients such as antiperspirant aluminum salts, antiperspirant bars for stability reasons with these salts are usually based either on alcohol, cetyl-stearyl or on a wax-amide base grease. Lip pencils are examples of wax-grease-oil anhydrous rod formulations, consisting of waxes for the structure, pigments for the color and castor oil and other oils that serve to disperse the pigment and other oils that serve to disperse the pigment and as an emollient. Such oil-wax bars are often compositions of ozokerite-mineral oil or carnauba / castor oil, unless the formulation is ideally balanced, the synthesis can be a problem (ie the separation of the liquid from the solid matrix), the syneresis has been related to structural changes, (phase changes), in the wax matrix with time, and therefore is related to the compatibility of the wax that is used with the rest of the components in the formulation (AC D eck, Cosmet., Toilet 96, 29 (1981)). It reports cases where formulations using straight carbon chain waxes become so brittle that they separate after a few hours of preparation. The specific formulations of the cosmetic bars can be found in the literature of cosmetics and patents for various uses such as moisturizers, perfume bars, suntan bars, antiperspirants, deodorants and pigmented bars such as lipsticks, blush or eyeshadow . The formulations for cosmetic bars vary from compressed powders and wax bars. A common form of cosmetic stick uses a gel such as soap gel or soap-alcohol gel. U.S. Patent No. 4,759,924; has a clear soap gel in a cosmetic stick composition containing aliphatic polyhydric alcohol, a soluble hydroalcoholic emollient, water and soap, the problem with the stearate-alcohol gel bars is however that they are not compatible with many active ingredients. In addition the alcohol stearate gel requires an elaborate package for distribution and to prevent the bar from drying out.

U.S. Patent 4950475 discloses a gel emulsion cosmetic stick composition containing a water-dissipable polymer, humectants, emollients, water and an emulsifier. Tense actives are required in the emulsion rods to incorporate non-polar, water immiscible ingredients within the bar. Active surfactants, however, decrease the water resistance of such formulations on the skin. U.S. Patent 4,695,452 presents a process for preparing cosmetic bar formulations, containing an acetylated monoglyceride, beeswax and isopropyl myristate. This is an ester of low viscosity that is considered oil-free. The cosmetic stick formulation has a high coefficient of friction that produces a massage action when applied to the skin. Wetting is an important attribute of many cosmetic formulations including bar formulations. Moisturizers and emollients are common ingredients in rod formations. the function of moisturizers is that they moisturize when the water is joined to the skin, this mode of action is in contrast to the occlusive wetting that works by slowing the rate of water transpiration through the skin; An emollient is defined as any material that softens the skin and dry skin may be inherently harsh both the humectant and the occlusive humectants. In general, the occlusives are quite effective but often not acceptable in cosmetics. For example, petrolatum is very effective but it is an oily substance that leaves an oily film unacceptable. This invention relates to an anhydrous delivery vehicle for applying cosmetic or functionally active ingredients to human skin, the anhydrous delivery vehicle comprises a mixture of: (A) 5 to 39% by weight of a wax having a melting point greater than 50 * and an average molecular weight of less than 15,000; (B) 5 to 30% by weight of an acetylated monoglyceride; (C) 5 to 60% by weight of petrolatum having a specific density between 0.815 and 0.880 to 60 * C and a melting margin between 38"and 60ßC; (D) 0.1 to 30% by weight of a fatty alcohol having 8 to 22 carbon atoms; and (E) 0.5 to 50% by weight of a functional or cosmetic active material selected from the group consisting of emollients, bronzers, vitamins, humectants, botanical agents, insecticide repellents, skin protectors, antiperspirants, bactericides, antiseptics, anti oxidants, softeners or pigment retardants, dyes, dyes, fragrances, titanium dioxide, talc and combinations thereof The anhydrous delivery vehicle of the present invention contains a mixture of at least five ingredients.The anhydrous carrier contains wax, an acetylated monoglyceride, petrolatum, a fatty alcohol and a cosmetic or functionally active material.The anhydrous carrier is preferably in the form of a bar composition which is used to apply various functionally active or cosmetic ingredients Component (A) is a wax having a melting point greater than 50 * and an average molecular weight less than 15,000. Preferably the wax has a melting point greater than 100 ° C and a molecular weight less than 10000. The wax provides the basic structure of the anhydrous supply vehicle. The hardness and the wear rate of the vehicle can be changed by varying the type or amount of wax in the formulation. The wax is present in an amount of 5 to 30% by weight of the formulation, preferably 10 to 20%. Waxes suitable for use in the present invention include but are not limited to polyethylene wax, petroleum waxes, paraffin, ozokerite, carnauba, beeswax, candelilla and microcrystalline waxes. Mixtures of waxes can also be used. Preferably the wax is a synthetic polyethylene wax such as EPOLENO N-21 having an average molecular weight of 6,500 or an oxidized polyethylene such as EPOLENO E-20 having an average molecular weight of 7500. EPOLENO type waxes are obtainable from Eastman Chemical Company. Component (B) is an acetylated monoglyceride which is present in an amount of 5 to 30% by weight, preferably 10 to 20% by weight of the formulation of the anhydrous vehicle. The acetylated monoglyceride can be mono or di acetylated or a mixture thereof. The acetylated monoglyceride serves as a solvent for the wax and other materials in the anhydrous vehicle. The acetylated monoglyceride also acts as an emollient and occlusive. In the case where the anhydrous vehicle is used as a cosmetic stick the acetylated monoglyceride acts to plasticize the bar giving it more drag on the skin and to decrease the greasy feel of the stick especially when high levels of petrolatum are used in the formulation. Preferred acetylated monoglycerides are MYVACET 7-07, MYVACET 9-45 and MYVACET 5-07 which are obtainable from Eastman Chemical Company, MYVACET 7-07 is a ceruleous solid at room temperature and has a degree of acetylation of 70% and a value of iodine of 5 or less. MYVACET 9-45 is a fully acetylated monoglyceride, liquid at room temperature and has a minimum degree of acetylation of 96%, and an iodine value between 43 and 53%. MYVACET 5-07 is a cerulean solid at room temperature and has a degree of acetylation of 50 and an iodine value of 5 or less. The source of fat used in preparing the acetylated monoglyceride as well as the degree of acetylation has an effect on the aesthetic properties of the cosmetic product. The third component of the formulation of the vehicle that is component (C) is the petrolatum. Petrolatum is a purified mixture of hydrocarbons derived by fractional distillation of steam distillation residues from paraffin-based petroleum or from crude oils reduced with steam from which the light fractions have been removed. The petrolatum has a specific gravity of 0.815 and 0.880 at 60'c and has a melting margin between 38 and 60 * C. The petrolatum may contain a suitable installer such as a hydroxybutyl toluene. The nature of butylate is not especially critical as long as the petrolatum is amber or red white. White petrolatum is a purified mixture of semisolid hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum and colored totally or almost totally. Amber petrolatum is a medium consistency petrolatum, the red petrolatum is a minimally refined petrolatum. The petrolatum is present in an amount of 5 to 60% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight of the formulation. The petrolatum serves as a solvent for cosmetic or active materials and contributes to the occlusive nature of the stick compositions on the skin. Component (B) is an alcohol, fatty having 8 to 22 carbon atoms. This can be in the form of liquids or solids, preferably the fatty alcohol has from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols with less than 8 carbon atoms are too volatile to be useful in the anhydrous carrier formulations of the present invention. The fatty alcohol is present in the formation in an amount of 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 10 to 20% by weight. The fatty alcohol works with an emollient and helps for the dispersion of cosmetic or functional materials. Fatty alcohols suitable for the present invention include saturated alcohols such as octyl, decyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, and cetearyl. Suitable fatty alcohols also include unsaturated alcohols such as oleyl, linoleyl, and linolenyl. In case an unsaturated fatty alcohol is used, an antioxidant will be preferably included to stabilize the unsaturated fatty alcohol. A preferred alcohol is cetearyl, which is a mixture of cetyl alcohol with stearyl. The component (E) is a functionally active or cosmetic material, the cosmetic or active materials for use in the present invention are: emollients, bronzers, vitamins, humectants, botanical agents, insecticide repellents, skin reagents, antiperspirants, bactericides, antiseptics, anti-oxidants, softeners or retarders pigments, dyes, dyes, fragrances, titanium dioxide, talc and combinations thereof. The active or cosmetic materials are present in an amount of 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 25% by weight of the total formulation. Combinations of cosmetic and functional active materials can also be employed in the anhydrous vehicles of application of the present invention. Suitable humectants include: (1) propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and tripropylene. (2) butylene glycol (1.4 + 1.3) (3) polyoxyethylene (4) polyethylene glycol (5) hexylene glycol (6) urea and (7) ethoxydiglycol Suitable emollients include: (1) mineral oil (2) isopropyl palmitate laurate, myristate , etc. (other esters). (3) squalene, squalene (4) glycol esters (butyl stearate, etc.) (5) lanolin and derivatives (6) cholesterol (7) coconut oil, avocado oil, olive oil, other vegetable oils including, cocoa butter, corn oil. (8) silicones (9) mink oil, bait, other animal fats and oils and (10) ethoxylated alcohols, proproxylated alcohols and EO / PO alcohols. The anhydrous carrier vehicle may contain a combination of antioxidant compounds. Preferably, one of these components is vitamin E (di-alpha-tocopherol). A second antioxidant component is ascorbyl palmitate (palmitic acid of vitamin C) which is useful as a free radical scavenging, the characteristic of antioxidation The combination of vitamin E with ascorbyl palmitate has been suggested to reduce the rate of aging of human skin. The formulations of the present invention are prepared by adding the components (A) - (E) to a suitable retort and heating while stirring to a homogeneous melt. The composition is cooled to slightly above its solidification point, poured into the container and allowed to solidify. Optionally, heat sensitive ingredients can be added together before pouring to reduce the time that such components are subjected to heat. If pigments are used, they can be dispersed in the petrolatum, component (C) and the component acetylated monoglyceride (B) before being combined with the components (A), (D) and (E), a high tear mixing may be required for properly disperse the pigments. In addition to the components (A) _- (E) the formulations of the present invention may also contain fillers and other additives commonly used in cosmetic formulations. Mixtures of the additives can also be used. Such additives, their amounts and their use are well known in the art. A particularly advantageous use of the vehicle formulations of the present invention is in the form of a rod. In the case of a bar, 1 sidewalk that is the component (A), provides the structure of the bar. If the level of the wax falls below a certain amount, the bar loses its integrity. The lowest level of wax used in the formulation depends on the amount of petrolatum, component (C) and the amount of the cosmetic material or active component. (E), which is incorporated in the bar. For high amounts of cosmetic or active material, a relatively high amount of wax may be used. Conversely for lower amounts of cosmetic or active material, less wax may be used. Preferably, in the bar formulations, the weight ratio of the wax to the acetylated monoglyceride is 1: 1. The load of oil material up to 25% can be done without severely softening the bar when adjusting the wax level. The tensile properties of the wax / monoglyceride acetylated mixtures are closely related to the properties of the wax used. By adjusting the level and type of wax, you can formulate the bars with a particular set of physical properties. The materials and test procedures used for the results shown here are as follows: DEEY is N, N'-diethyl-m-toluamide, an insect repellent obtainable from Hoechst Celanese. ESCALOL 557 is ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate which is obtainable from ISP Van Dyk Inc. TENOX GT-2 is an antioxidant consisting of tocopherols derived from vegetable oil seeds obtainable from Eastman Chemical Company. Lannette wax O is cetearyl alcohol which is obtainable from Henkel. The method of the present invention will be illustrated by considering the following examples. All parts and percent in the examples are in relation to weight, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLES 1-7 Several anhydrous stick formulations were prepared by combining the components, as listed for each example in Table I, in a suitable retort and heated with stirring until a homogeneous melt was obtained. The homogeneous melt was poured into a mold at a temperature just above its solidification point. In Example 4, which contains zinc oxide, it was first dispersed in a mixture of petrolatum, Myvacet 7-07 and mineral oil using a high tear mixer before combining with the other components. In Examples 5 and 6 containing fragrance oils and flavor oils respectively, the oils were the last added components, just before pouring them into the mold. The formulations prepared in Examples -17 were non-greasy solids, homogeneous ceruleums that rub easily on the skin. Example 5 is a fragrance bar, which had a slight oily feel due to the use of Myvacet 9-45, a fully acetylated monoglyceride prepared from an oil having some degree of unsaturation. TABLE I Examples of various anhydrous stick formulations Component type Examples 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Radialao wax 12. »20.0 Cu-aUlli ß.o Stop ina 4.0 -ticroeric - -j--. 2.0 Face down * 4.0 Ipolana 1-21 1S.S 15.5 Ipolana «-10 14.0 (B) Honoglioaridoa acatlladoa: Kyvaost 7-07 14.0 19.4 14.0 21.0 1S.0 1» .JH vacat »-45 1S.0 (C) esponao: Aabar 34.0 34.0 34.0 34.0 34.0 White 15.0 3S.0 (0) - fatty alcohol: Alcohol ethyl l.O. UMtl face or 17.2 17.2 17.2 10.0 20.0 17.2 (E) Active grade "? calna alnaral l? 10.5 10.1 20.0 10.0 Dlaatlcana 2.1 2.0 Sallcllato gives 5.0 aat lo Kantol 1.0 DEET Bscalol 557 7.S Tatu »gt-2 oxido da ilnc Fragrance Aceite aaborisant * Cocoa butter The results in Table I clearly show that many different types of cosmetic ingredients or functionally functional are compatible in the formulations of anhydrous carrier vehicle of the present invention. EXAMPLE 8 These bar formulations were prepared according to the formulation of Example 1, except that the type of acetylated monoglyceride, component (B), was changed. The formulations were prepared by heating and mixing the components to a homogeneous melt. The homogeneous melt was poured into cylindrical molds which consisted of an aluminum tube with an internal diameter of 2.5 cm and 5 cm in length resting on it < on a sheet coated with Teflon. The mixture was poured with a depth of 2.5 cm into the mold. After cooling, the skin sensation, wear and penetration [hardness] of the bars was determined. The sensation in the skin was evaluated qualitatively when the molded bar was applied to the skin. The wear was determined as follows: A circular molded bar with a diameter of 2.5 cm was cut to 1.5 cm height using a razor, the mold was placed in an aluminum tube that was suspended vertically a short distance above a counter top so that the fresh cut was down on a strip of paper of known weight, which was 5 cm wide and 30 cm long. A plunger consisting of an aluminum cylinder 2.5 cm in diameter and 5.63 cm in length was placed on top of the molded bar. Bronze weights were applied to the upper part of the plunger so that the total weight applied to the upper part of the molded bar of 400 gr. the paper strip was reweighed and the difference was recorded as the amount of bar that had been deposited in the paper. The hardness was measured as the distance in millimeters of penetration of a barbell under a certain weight. Settlement was determined in a manner similar to wear except that the aluminum tube was mounted vertically so that it was centered over the point of a vertical stop arrested with the tip of it in the horizontal plane formed by the bottom of the cylinder. A spatula was placed between the tip of the shaft and the bottom of the cylinder, the molded rod was placed in the cylinder so that it will rest on the spatula at the bottom of the cylinder. The plunger or diver was placed on top of the cylinder and the weights were placed on top of the diver so that the total weight applied to the top of the bar was 138 grams. The distance from the top of the cylinder to the parts The top of the diver was measured with a micrometer, then the spatula was removed so that the molded bar was forced down over the tip of the pole by the weight of the diver with the weights. After a period of 30 seconds, the distance from the top of the cylinder to the top of the diver is again measured. The difference between the two measurements was the penetration of the lesna into the molded bar. The results of the test are shown in Table II. TABLE II Properties of bars with various acetylated monoglycerides. 15 Monoglyceride Feeling Penetration Acetylated wear m mg MYVACET 9-45 oily 4.0 0.7 24.7 2.6 MYVACET 7-07 non-oily 3.2 0.7 18.3 2.6 MYVACET 5-05 non-oily 3.3 0.7 18.7 2.6 20 The margins represent intervals of 95% confidence. The results in Table II show that the acetylated monoglyceride, Myvacet 9-45, caused the bar to feel slightly more oily and resulted in wear slightly higher than bars prepared with mono- or di-acetylated monoglycerides. However, the results did not indicate any difference of the bars in the penetration or in the hardness. EXAMPLE 9 Two bar formulations were prepared according to the formulation of Example 1, except that the type of component wax (A) was changed, the bar compositions were poured into cylindrical molds as already described for example 8. After After cooling, the skin sensation, the wear and the hardness of the bars were determined according to the procedure of example 8. The results of the test are summarized in Table III! TABLE III Wax type Feeling Hardness Skin wear m mg Epolene N-21 non-greasy 3.40 0.32 17.2 2.8 Epolene E-20 oily 4.28 0.51 48.8 3.1 The margins represent 95% confidence intervals The results in Table III clearly show that the Use of an oxidized wax in the formulation results in a softer stick with a more oily feel to the skin and a higher wear than a formulation containing a non-oxidized wax.

EXAMPLE 10 This Example demonstrates the durability of a film formed from a bar composition deposited on the skin. The stick composition of Example 5 in which the cosmetic ingredient was a fragrance oil was applied to the back of a person's right hand and rubbed, the stick composition was not applied to the left hand. Both hands were washed with soap and hot water, and dried after washing, the fragrance was detectable in the person's right hand even after four washes. EXAMPLE 11 This example illustrates the occlusivity of the film formed from the bar formulation prepared in Example 1. The occlusivity of the films was determined by measuring the rate at which a drop of water disappeared on a Whatman 40 ashless filter paper treated with a certain amount of the bar formulation. The water was supplied as drops of approximately 0.02 g. At room temperature and with a humidity controlled by a volume test tube, the time required to completely disappear on the filter paper sheet after being deposited on the paper was defined as the time of disappearance. Untreated filter paper sucks or disappears water faster than can be measured with a stopwatch. In contrast, water droplets placed on paper treated with an occlusive material can last several minutes before disappearing completely. The bar formulations prepared in Example 1 were compared with pure petroleum jelly, which is generally accepted as a highly occlusive material, and Nivea Cream which is an emulsion which is manufactured by Beiersdorf Inc. Each test filter paper was prepared by placing a determined amount (approximately 0.03 g) of the occlusive test material that talks about being evaluated in the center of the paper, then extending it with a finger until they had been treated 4.9 cm squared and appeared homogeneous, the samples were separated during 30 minutes. A controlled drop of water was placed in the center of each treated area, and the time for the drop of fluid to decrease in size to be equal to the plane of the paper was measured. Five series were made for each sample, and the time to disappear (in seconds) and the standard deviation of the five measurements were determined. Each sample was again measured in the same way in five hours. The averages and standard deviations for each of the test materials are summarized in Table IV TABLE IV Time to disappear or be completely absorbed (seconds) Sample After 30 min After 5 h Jelly petrol. 234 30 275 67 Cream Nivea 62 12 155 31 F.Example 1 566 50 593 77 The test results in Table IV show that it takes two to three times longer for the water to moisten the paper covered with the formulation of the Example 1 that you need to moisten paper treated with pure petroleum jelly or a commercial occlusive emulsion product. Thus, the bar formulations of the present invention exhibit superior occlusive barrier properties. EXAMPLE 12 This example demonstrates the stability of the bar formulations prepared in Examples 3 and 5 to syneresis (ie to the separation of liquid from the solid matrix) and to drying. A sample of approximately 13 grams was cut from the top of the bars prepared in Examples 3 and 5. Each sample was placed in an aluminum pan of a tare weight. The sample in the weight pan was placed in a humidity controlled oven at 37"and 75% relative humidity for a period of 24 hours and then removed and reweighed.This was repeated three times over a period of 24 hours. hours between each heating cycle Each bar sample was examined to show syneresis after each heating cycle The weights of the bar samples were measured after each heating cycle and are indicated in Table V. After each third heating cycle, the lower edge of the fragrance bar (Example 5) had fused lightly and fluidly to the surface of the pan, otherwise, no change occurred in the bars after three cycles in the humidity oven. In Example 5, a formulation containing 8% by weight of fragrance oil lost about 1% of its weight. TABLE V Cycle Example 3 Example 5 gms gms Initial 13.52 13.83 lero 13.52 13.78 2d? 13.52 13.73 3rd 13.52 13.69 The results in Table V clearly show that the liquid component of the bar formulations of the present invention are not separated from the solid matrix, and as a result, that the bar formulations do not dry. Many variations suggest themselves to the technician in light of the above description. Such obvious modifications are within the intended scope of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. RE IVINDICACI ON 1.- An anhydrous vehicle for applying cosmetic or functionally active ingredients to human skin, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of A) 5 to 30% by weight of a wax having a melting point greater than 50 * C and an average molecular weight of less than 15,000;
2. B) 5 to 30% by weight of an acetylated monoglyceride; C) 5 to 60% by weight of a petrolatum having a specific density between 0.815 and 0.880 at 60 ° C, and a melting margin between 38 * and 60 * C; D) 0.1 to 30% by weight of a fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms; E) 0.05 to 50% by weight of a cosmetic or functionally active material, of the group consisting of emollients, sunscreens, vitamins, humectants, botanical agents, insect repellents, skin protectors, antiperspirants, bactericides, antiseptics, antioxidants, buffers , pigments, dyes, dyes, fragrances, titanium dioxide, talc and combinations thereof. 2. The anhydrous vehicle according to claim 1, characterized in that the wax, which is the component A) is selected from the group consisting of polyethylene wax, petroleum waxes, paraffin, ozokerite, carnauba, beeswax, candelilla, waxes microcrystalline and mixtures thereof.
3. 3. - The anhydrous vehicle according to claim 2, characterized in that the wax is polyethylene wax.
4. 4. The anhydrous vehicle according to claim 1, characterized in that the acetylated monoglyceride is selected from the group consisting of monoacetylated monoglycerides, diacetylated monoglycerides and mixtures of acetylated monoglycerides.
5. 5. The anhydrous vehicle according to claim 1, characterized in that the petrolatum is selected from the group consisting of white petrolatum, red petrolatum, and amber petrolatum.
6. 6. The anhydrous vehicle according to claim 1, characterized in that the fatty alcohol, which is component D), is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, monoglycerides and mixtures thereof.
7. 7. The anhydrous vehicle according to claim 1, characterized in that the cosmetic or functionally active material is present in an amount of 0.1 to 25% by weight.
8. 8. The anhydrous vehicle according to claim 2, characterized in that the cosmetic or functionally active material is a vitamin selected from the group consisting of vitamin A, vitamin C and vitamin E.
9. 9. The anhydrous vehicle according to claim 8, characterized in that the cosmetic or functionally active material is a combination of vitamin E in the form of Dl-alpha-tocopherol and vitamin C in the form of ascorbyl palmitate.
10. 10. The anhydrous vehicle according to claim 1, characterized in that the cosmetic or functionally active material is mineral oil. R E S UMEN In this invention an anhydrous delivery vehicle is presented for applying a cosmetic or functionally active ingredient to human skin. The anhydrous supply vehicle contains from 5 to 30% by weight of a high melting point wax, from 5 to 30% by weight of an acetylated monoglyceride, from 5 to 60% by weight of petrolatum, from 0.1 to 30% by weight of an alcohol fatty that has from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and a cosmetic or functionally active material.