MXPA97004985A - Cosmetic bar compositions resistant to transfer with semi-m finish - Google Patents

Cosmetic bar compositions resistant to transfer with semi-m finish

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Publication number
MXPA97004985A
MXPA97004985A MXPA/A/1997/004985A MX9704985A MXPA97004985A MX PA97004985 A MXPA97004985 A MX PA97004985A MX 9704985 A MX9704985 A MX 9704985A MX PA97004985 A MXPA97004985 A MX PA97004985A
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Mexico
Prior art keywords
percent
composition according
radical
composition
organosiloxane
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MXPA/A/1997/004985A
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Spanish (es)
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MX9704985A (en
Inventor
M Krog Ann
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Revlon Consumer Products Corporation
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Priority claimed from US08/552,667 external-priority patent/US5725845A/en
Application filed by Revlon Consumer Products Corporation filed Critical Revlon Consumer Products Corporation
Publication of MX9704985A publication Critical patent/MX9704985A/en
Publication of MXPA97004985A publication Critical patent/MXPA97004985A/en

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Abstract

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic stick composition with improved transfer resistance, comprising, by weight of the total composition: a) from 10 to 70 percent of a volatile solvent, b) from 0.1 to 40 percent of a polymeric organosiloxane emulsifier containing at least one hydrophilic radical and at least one lipophilic radical

Description

"COSMETIC BAR COMPOSITIONS RESISTANT TO TRANSFER, WITH SEMI-MATE FINISH" TECHNICAL FIELD The invention is in the field of cosmetic compositions for. applications to the skin and lips.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Cosmetic compositions are generally defined as appropriate compositions for application to the human body. Pigmented cosmetic compositions, such as makeup, blush, lipstick and eyeshadow are used to color the skin and lips, or to moisten or moisturize, hide wrinkles and the like. Since color is one of the most important reasons for using cosmetics, cosmetics that contain color must be formulated very carefully to provide maximum use and effect. One of the oldest problems with make-up, such as face makeup, lipstick, mascara or eyelash dye and the like, is the tendency of the cosmetic to be smudged or transferred from the skin or eyelashes to other surfaces such as earthenware. glass, silverware, leather or clothing. This not only creates soiling, but forces the cosmetic user to reapply the cosmetic at fairly short intervals. Improved transfer resistance cosmetic compositions are disclosed in a prior patent application entitled "Cosmetic Compositions With Improved Transfer Resistance" filed by the applicant's concessionaire as US Patent Application Ser. No. 990,716 on December 15, 1992, which is incorporated herein by reference. However, these transfer resistant cosmetic compositions may have a matte texture on the skin and lips. However, some women prefer lipstick that has a slightly luster finish (referred to as semi-matte). In general, ingredients that can be added to matte transfer resistant lipsticks to improve luster and provide a semi-matte finish tend to compromise transfer resistance. It has been unexpectedly discovered that cosmetic compositions containing the combination of a volatile solvent with a polymeric organosiloxane emulsifier that is miscible or solvent in the volatile solvent and that has a lipophilic portion and a hydrophilic portion, provides cosmetic compositions having resistance to Excellent transfer, as well as providing a semi-matte finish when applied to the skin. An object of this invention is to formulate cosmetic compositions, particularly lipstick, with durable adhesion to the skin that provides a semi-matte finish when applied to the skin. Another object of the present invention is to formulate a transfer-resistant cosmetic composition that provides a semi-matte finish that, once applied to the skin, resists transfer to glass, clothing, other skin or utensils.
COMPENDIUM OF THE INVENTION The invention is directed to an anhydrous transfer-resistant cosmetic stick composition comprising, by weight of the total composition: a) from 10 percent to 70 percent of a volatile solvent having a viscosity of 0.5 to 25 centistokes at 25 ° C, and b) from 0.1 percent to 40 percent of a polymeric organosiloxane emulsifier, containing at least one radical or hydrophilic moiety, and at least one radical or lipophilic moiety. The invention is also directed to a method for providing a cosmetic stick composition with resistance to transfer and a semi-matte finish when applied to the skin, which comprises adding to the composition the combination of a volatile solvent and an organosiloxane emulsifier. polymeric having at least one lipophilic radical or moiety and at least one hydrophilic moiety or moiety.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION The term "bar" refers to cosmetic compositions having a consistency such that they can be molded into the shape of a bar - for example, heating until they melt and then emptying into a mold and cooling. Also included within the definition of "bar" are the anhydrous compositions of the invention which are capable of being formed into sticks, but which are emptied into trays and other types of cake or cream forms to provide certain benefits to the consumer.
For example, an eye shadow composition according to the invention can be molded into a bar shape, but it may be desirable to empty it into a tray because this package is more desirable from a consumer's point of view. The term "anhydrous" means that the composition contains no more than about 5 percent, more particularly about 1 percent to 2 percent by weight or less of water, or more preferably, that water is not added intentionally to the cosmetic composition of the invention.
THE VOLATILE SOLVENT The component of the volatile solvent of the composition is a liquid and allows the easy formation of the cosmetic bar of the invention. When the cosmetic stick product of the invention is applied to the skin or to the lips, the volatile solvent of the invention must be capable of rapidly evaporating to leave the other ingredients of the stick in the skin. The composition of the invention comprises from 10 percent to 70 percent, preferably from 20 percent to 65 percent and especially preferably from 25 percent to 60 percent of a volatile solvent. The volatile solvent usually has a viscosity of 0.5 to 25 centistokes at 25 ° C. Suitable volatile solvents include linear silicones, cyclic silicones, paraffinic hydrocarbons or mixtures thereof.
Cyclic silicones (or cyclomethicones) are of the general formula: where n = 3-7. The linear volatile silicones according to the invention have the general formula: (CH3) 3Si-0- [Si (CH3) 2-0] n-Si (CH3) 3 where n = 0-7, preferably 0-5 . Volatile linear and cyclic silicones can be obtained from a variety of commercial sources, including Dow Corning Corporation and General Electric. The volatile silicones of Dow Corning are sold under the fluid factory names of Dow Corning 244, 245, 344 and 200. These fluids comprise octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane and mixtures thereof. Also suitable as the volatile solvent are various straight or branched chain paraffinic hydrocarbons having from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Suitable hydrocarbons include decane, dodecane, tetradecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins of 8 to 20 carbon atoms, as disclosed in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,439,088 and 3,818,105, both of which are incorporated herein by reference. Volatile paraffinic hydrocarbons have a molecular weight of 160 to 180, and a boiling temperature scale of 105 ° C to 320 ° C, and a viscosity of less than 20 centistokes at 25 ° C. These paraffinic hydrocarbons can be obtained from EXXON under the name ISOPARS and from Permethyl Corporation. The appropriate 12-carbon isoparaffins are manufactured by Permethyl Corporation under the trade name Permethyl 99A. Another isoparaffin of 12 carbon atoms (isododecane) is distributed by Presperse under the factory name Permethyl 99A. Various isoparaffins of 16 carbon atoms that can be obtained commercially, such as isohexadecane (which has the trade name Permethyl R), are also suitable. The volatile solvent may be a mixture of volatile silicones and parfinic hydrocarbons, if desired.
THE ORGAN-ORGANOXAN EMULSIFIER The organosiloxane emulsifiers according to the invention have traditionally been used to stabilize cosmetic emulsions of water and oil such as creams, lotions and the like. It has been unexpectedly discovered that combining an organosiloxane emulsifier (surfactant) with a volatile solvent, in an anhydrous cosmetic stick composition, provides a stick that is not only resistant to transfer when applied to the skin or lips, but At the same time it provides a semi-matte finish on the skin or lips. The semi-matt finish is achieved without significantly compromising the transfer resistance. further, the cosmetic has a moist and comfortable feeling on the skin or lips. The composition of the invention preferably comprises from 0.1 percent to 40 percent, more preferably from 0.5 percent to 20 percent, and especially preferably from 1 percent to 15 percent of the polymeric organosiloxane emulsifier that contains at least one radical or lipophilic portion and at least one radical or hydrophilic portion. Organosiloxane emulsifiers suitable for use in the compositions of the invention can be identified as those which, when combined with organic and inorganic pigments, and incorporated into an anhydrous stick composition, provide a homogeneous single-phase product. The polymeric organosiloxane used in the invention can be a liquid or solid at room temperature. The polymeric organosiloxane is generally a water-in-oil or oil-in-water surfactant, which is preferably non-ionic, having a Hydrophilic / Lipophilic Balance (HLB) of from 2 to 18. Preferably the organosiloxane is an agent nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 2 to 12, preferably 2 to 10, and most preferably 4 to 6. The HLB of a nonionic surfactant is the balance between the hydrophilic and lipophilic portions of the surfactant and is calculated according to the following formula: HLB = 7 + 11.7 x 1 ogMw / MQ where Mw is the molecular weight of the portion of the hydrophilic group and M0 is the molecular weight of the portion of the lipophilic group. The term "organosiloxane polymer" means a polymer that contains a basic polymeric structure including repeating siloxy units that may have cyclic, linear or branched repeating units, v.gr, di (lower) alkylsiloxy units, preferably units of dimethylsiloxy. The hydrophilic portion of the organosiloxane is generally achieved by substitution in the polymeric backbone of a radical that confers hydrophilic properties to a portion of the molecule. The hydrophilic radical can be substituted at one end of the polymeric organosiloxane, or at one or more of the repeating units of the polymer. In general, the repeating dimethylsiloxy units of the modified polydimethylsiloxane emulsifiers are lipophilic in nature due to the methyl groups and impart lipophilicity to the molecule. In addition, longer chain alkyl radicals, hydroxy-polypropyleneoxy radicals, or other types of lipophilic radicals can be substituted in the basic siloxy structure to confer additional lipophilicity and organocompatibility. If the lipophilic portion of the molecule is wholly or partly due to a specific radical, this lipophilic radical can be substituted at one end of the organosilicone polymer, or at one or more of the repeating units of the polymer. It should also be understood that the organosiloxane polymer, according to the invention, must have at least a hydrophilic portion and a lipophilic portion. The term "hydrophilic radical" means a radical which, when substituted in the basic structure of organosiloxane polymer, confers hydrofluoric properties to the substituted polymer portion. Examples of hydrophilicity-imparting radicals are hydroxy-polyethyleneoxy, hydroxyl, carboxylates, sulfonates, sulphates, phosphates or amines.
The term "lipophilic radical" means an organic radical, which when substituted in the basic structure of the organosiloxane polymer, confers lipophilic properties on the substituted polymer portion. Examples of organic radicals which will confer lipophilicity are alkyl, fluoro, aryl, aryloxy, from 1 to 40 straight-chain or branched carbon atoms, hydrocarbyl acyl from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, hydroxy-polypropyleneoxy, or mixtures thereof . The alkyl of 1 to 40 carbon atoms may be uninterrupted or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, a benzene ring, amides, esters, or other functional groups. The polymeric organosiloxane emulsifier used in the invention can have any of the following general formulas: xQy, or MxTy, or MDXD 'and D "ZM wherein each M is independently a terminal blockade of substituted or unsubstituted trimethylsiloxy. If substituted, one or more of the hydrogens are substituted in the terminally blocked methyl groups, or one or more of the methyl groups are substituted with a substituent which is a lipophilic radical, a hydrophilic radical or mixtures thereof. T is a trifunctional siloxi unit that has the empirical formula RR'SiO ^ s or RRSiO? .5. Q is a quadrifunctional siloxy unit having the empirical formula SIO2, and D, D ', D ", x, y and z are as noted below, except that the compound contains at least one hydrophilic radical and therefore minus one lipophilic radical The examples of emulsifiers used in the compositions of the invention are of the general formula: MDxD'yD '' ZM wherein the trimethylsiloxy or terminal block unit is unsubstituted or mono-substituted, wherein a Methyl group is substituted with a lipophilic radical or a hydrophilic radical Examples of these substituted terminal trimethylsiloxy units include (CH 3) 2 H 2 O 2, (CH 3) 2 PSiO, (CH 3) 2 CH 2 H 2 O 2, (CH 3) 2 CH 2 L 2 Si 2, where HP is a hydrophilic radical and LP is a lipophilic radical.D, D 'and D1' are difunctional siloxy units substituted with methyl, hydrogen, a lipophilic radical, a hydrophilic radical or mixtures thereof In this general formula: x = 0 -5000, of pr eference 1-1000 y = 0-5000, preferably 1-1000, and z = 0-5000, preferably 0-1000, with the proviso that the compound contains at least one lipophilic radical and at least one hydrophilic radical. Examples of these polymers are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,698,178, which is incorporated herein by reference. Particularly preferred is a linear silicone of the formula: MDxD'yD "zM where M = RRRSiO / 2 D and D '= RR'Si02 / 2 D' '= RRSÍ02 / 2 x, yyz each is independently 0-1000 wherein R is methyl or hydrogen, and R * is a hydrophilic radical or a lipophilic radical, with the proviso that the compound contains at least one hydrophilic radical and at least one lipophilic radical. trimethylsiloxy D = Si [(CH3)] [(CH2) nCH3] 02/2 where n = 1-40, D '= Si [(CH3)] [(CH2) or-0-Pe)] 02/2 in where PE is (-C2H40) to (-C3H60) bH, or = 0-40, a = 1-100 and b = 1-100, and D "= Si (CH3) 202 2 Typical examples of the preferred organosiloxane emulsifiers according to the invention include those that will be pointed out below: p < m.
CH, CH. CH, I I I IV. CHj-Si-O- -SW) S¡- CHa I I- I HP CH, V LP OR I Yes (CH,), wherein LP is a lipophilic radical HP is a hydrophilic radical 'x is 0-5000 and is 0-5000, and z is 0-5000, with the proviso that the organosiloxane contains at least one hydrophilic radical and at least one lipophilic radical . Especially preferred are compounds of the generic formula I wherein LP is a lipophilic radical which is an alkyl of 1 to 40 straight or branched carbon atoms, HP is a hydrophilic radical containing hydroxy-polyethyleneoxy, and z is at least 1. Most preferred is a compound of the formula: wherein p is from 10 to 40, preferably from 12-20, most preferably 15, and PE is (-C2H4?) to (-C3H60) bH wherein x, y, z, a and b are such that the The maximum molecular weight of the polymer is approximately 50,000. The organosiloxane polymers useful in the compositions of the invention can be obtained commercially from Goldschmidt Corporation under the ABIL factory name. The preferred polymer is cetyl-dimethicone copolyol and has the factory name ABIL WE 09 or ABIL WS 08. The cetyl-dimethicone copolyol can be used alone or together with other organic emulsifiers other than silicone. It is preferred when the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol is mixed with other organic emulsifiers or emollients that do not contain silicone. In particular, mixtures of 25 percent to 50 percent of the organosiloxane emulsifier, 25 percent to 50 percent of an organic emulsifier that does not contain silicone, and 25 percent to 50 percent by weight of emollients or oils they are preferred. For example, mixtures identified by the names C.T.F.A. copolyol of cetyl-dimethicone (and) polyglyceryl 4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate, or copolyol of dimethicone (and) polyglyceryl-3 (y) hexyl laurate both work well. These mixtures contain approximately 25 percent to 50 percent of each ingredient, for example ABIL WE 09 contains approximately, by weight of the total ABIL composition, from 25 percent to 50 percent copolyil of cetyldimethicone, from 25 percent to 50 percent polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, and 25 percent to 50 percent hexyl laurate which is an emollient or oil. Another type of preferred organosiloxane emulsifier suitable for use in the compositions of the invention are the emulsifiers sold by Union Carbide under the Silwet ™ brand. These emulsifiers are represented by the following generic formulas: (Me3Si) y_2 [(OSiMe2) x yO-PE] and wherein PE = (EO) m (PO) nR R = lower alkyl or hydrogen Me = methyl EO is polyethyleneoxy PO is polypropylexy m and n each is independently 1-5000 x e and each is independently 0-5000, and Me3SiO (Me2SiO) x (MeSiO) andSiMe3 PE wherein PE = -CH2CH2CH20 (EO) m (PO) nZ Z = lower alkyl or hydrogen, and Me,, n, x, y, EO and PO are as described above, with the proviso that The molecule contains a lipophilic portion and a hydrophilic portion. Again, the lipophilic portion can be supplied by a sulphide number of methyl groups in the basic structure of the polymer. Particularly preferred is the Silwet ™ polymer of the following general formula: wherein n is 1-10 preferably 8. Another preferred organosiloxane emulsifier for use in the compositions of the invention is dimethicone copolyol. Examples of other polymeric organosiloxane surfactants or emulsifiers include the amino / polyoxyalkylenated polydiorganosiloxanes disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,147,578. Also suitable are organosiloxanes sold by Goldschmidt under the trademark ABIL including ABIL B-9806, as well as those sold by Rhone-Poulenc under the trade name Alkasil. Likewise, the organosiloxane emulsifiers sold by Amerchol and under the trade name Amersil, including Amersil ME-358, Amersil DMC-287 and Amersil DMC-357 are suitable. Dow Corning surfactants such as Dow Corning Formulation Aid 3225C, Dow Corning 190 Surfactant, Dow Corning 193 Surfactant, Dow Corning Q2-5200, and the like are also suitable. In addition, the surfactants sold under the Silwet factory name by Union Carbide, and the surfactants sold by Troy Corporation under the Troysol factory name, those sold by Taiwan Surfactant Co. under the Ablusoft factory name, those sold under Hoechst under the Arkophob factory name, are also approved for use in the invention.
OTHER INGREDIENTS Waxes The cosmetic compositions of the invention generally contain from about 1 percent to 40 percent, preferably from 1 percent to 30 percent, and most preferably from 2 percent to 25 percent by weight of a natural or synthetic wax, cosmetically acceptable. An acceptable wax may be a solid or semi-solid wax having a melting temperature of 30 ° to 120 ° C and generally includes animal waxes, plant waxes, mineral waxes, silicone waxes and petroleum waxes. Examples of waxes according to the invention include myrtle, beeswax, candelilla, carnauba, ceresin, cetyl esters, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated jojoba wax, hydrogenated microcrystalline wax, hydrogenated rice bran wax, japan, jojoba butter, jojoba esters, jojoba wax, lanolin wax, microcrystalline wax, mink wax, mountain acid wax, montana wax, ouricury wax, ozolerite, paraffin wax, beeswax PEG-6, wax of bees PEG-8, rice bran wax, shellac wax, spent grain wax, sulfurized jojoba oil, synthetic beeswax, synthetic candelilla wax, synthetic carbauba wax, synthetic japan wax, jojoba oil synthetic, synthetic wax, polyethylene, stearoxi dimethicone, dimethicone behenate, stearyl dimethicone, and the like.
Oils The cosmetic compositions of the invention may also contain from about 0.1 percent to 30 percent, preferably from 0.5 percent to 25 percent, and most preferably from 1 percent to 20 percent by weight of a cosmetically acceptable oil . The oils are non-volatile, and have a viscosity ranging from 0.5 to 1,000,000 centistokes, preferably from 25 to 600,000 centistokes at 25 ° C. Examples of these oils include essential oils, esters, glyceryl esters of fatty acids, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and the like. In general, the esters are of the general formula RCO-OR 'wherein R and R' each independently is an alkyl, alkenyl or alkoxyalkyl of 1 to 50 straight or branched carbon atoms (v. Gr, poly ( alkyleneoxy) alkyl). One or both of R and R 'is an alkyl or alkenyl, e.g., of 1 to 50 carbon atoms. Examples of suitable esters include acetyl trialkyl citrates, acetylated glycol stearate, cetearyl derivatives, cetyl acetate, cetylacetyl ricinoleate, cetyl isononanoate, cetyl lactate, cetyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl oleate, palmitate of cetyl, cetyl stearate, hexyl laurate, glycol stearate, glycol palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, jojoba oil, jojoba esters, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl lactate, isostearyl isononanoate, lauryl lactate, lauryl stearate , tridecyltrimellitate, mireth derivatives, myristyl derivatives, polyethylene glycol ester derivatives, sucrose derivatives, and so on. Additional examples of these esters are disclosed on pages 503 to 506 of the C.T.F.A. Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Third Edition, 1993, which is incorporated herein by reference. The non-volatile oil may also comprise high viscosity oil which generally has a viscosity of 100,000 to 250,000 centistokes at 25 ° C. Examples of these oils include castor oil, lanolin, lanolin derivatives, triisocetyl citrate, triglycerides of 10 to 18 carbon atoms, caprylic / capric triglycerides, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, oil hydrogenated castor oil, linseed oil, mink oil, palm oil, olive oil, ilipe butter, rape seed oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, tallow, tricaprin, trihydroxystearin, triioestearin , trilaurin, trilinolein, trimyristin, triolein, tripalmitin, tristearin, tribehenina, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, cholesterol and similar. Also suitable as the oil component are ester derivatives such as acetylated castor oil, PEG castor oils, glyceryl oleates PEG, glyceryl stearates PEG, glyceryl seboates PEG and mixtures thereof. Also suitable as the non-volatile oil are various non-volatile paraffinic hydrocarbons, such as polyisobutene, mineral oil, polydecene, squalene, petrolatum, liquid polyalphaolefins such as those sold by Henkel under the trade name Emery 3004 PAO, and the like. Other examples of non-volatile oils are the various lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolin alcohol, acetylated lanolin ricinoleate, lanolin phosphates and acetates, lanolin acid, lanolin linoleate, hydrogenated lanolin PEG, and the like. Non-volatile non-fluorinated silicones are also suitable. These silicones usually have a viscosity of 35 to 600,000 centistokes, preferably 50 to 100,000 centistokes, at 25 ° C. Examples of these silicones include amodimethicone, dimethicone, dimethicone copolyol, dimethiconol, hexadecyl methicone, methicone, phenyl trimethicone, simethicone, di-ethylhydrogensiloxane, stearoxy dimethicone, vinyl dimethicone and the like. Fluorinated oils such as fluorinated silicones, fluorinated perfluoropolyethers, and fluor-guerbet citrate esters are also suitable. Examples of suitable fluorosilicones are terminal blocked trimethylsilyl fluorosilicone oils, polytrifluoropropylmethylsiloxanes and like silicones. Perfluoropolyethers like those disclosed in U.S. Patent Nos. 5,183,589, 4,803,067 and 5,183,588 all of which have been incorporated by reference, are also suitable. These polyfluoropolyethers can be obtained commercially from Montefluos under the trade name Fomblin. Fluoro-guerbet citrate esters and fluorinated oil derivatives such as the development ester L61125A sold by Siltech of Norcross, Georgia, which is tentatively named as fluoro-octododecyl pradofoamate and sold under the name Silube Factory, are preferred. GME-F.
Pigments and Powders The composition of the invention may contain from 5 percent to 50 percent, preferably from 7 percent to 45 percent, most preferably from 10 percent to 40 percent by weight of the total composition, of matter in dry particles having a particle size of 0.02 to 200, preferably 0.5 to 100 microns. The particulate matter may be colored or uncoloured (e.g., white). Suitable powders include bismuth oxychloride, titanate mica, fuming silica, spherical silica, polymethylmethacrylate, micronized teflon, boron nitride, acrylate copolymers, aluminum silicate, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, bentonite, calcium silicate, cellulose, chalk, corn starch, diatomaceous earth, fuller's earth, glyceryl starch, hectorite, hydrated silica, kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicate, magnesium trisilicate, maltodextrin, montmorillonite, microcrystalline cellulose, rice starch, silica, talc, mica, titanium dioxide, zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc rosinate, alumina, attapulgite, calcium carbonate, calcium silicate, dextran, kaolin, nylon, silica silicate, silk powder, sericite, soybean meal, tin, titanium hydroxide, trimagnesium phosphate, walnut shell powder or mixtures thereof. The aforementioned powders may not be treated on their surface with lecithin, amino acids, mineral oil, silicone oil and various other agents either alone or in combination that coat the powder surface and make the particles more lipophilic in nature. The powder component also comprises various organic and inorganic pigments. Organic pigments are usually the different aromatic types of azo dyes, indigoid, triphenylmethane, anthraquinone, and xanthine which are designated as blue, brown, green, orange, red, yellow, etc. of D &C and FD &C. Organic pigments usually consist of insoluble metal salts of certified color additives which are referred to as lacquers. The inorganic pigments include colors of iron oxides, ultramarine, chromium, chromium hydroxide and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition will contain both a pigment and non-pigmented powders. Obviously, the percentage of pigments that are used in the powder component will depend on the type of cosmetic that is being formulated. Colored cosmetics usually have a much higher concentration of color than other types of cosmetics. Generally, the weight ratio of the pigment to the non-pigmented powder will vary from 1:20 to 20: 1.
Preferred anhydrous bar cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise, in percent by weight: a) from 10 percent to 70 percent of a volatile solvent, b) from 0.1 percent to 40 percent of a polymeric organosiloxane emulsifier which contains at least one lipophilic radical and at least one hydrophilic radical, c) from 1 percent to 40 percent of a wax having a melting temperature of 30 ° C to 120 ° C, d) 0.1 percent to 30 percent oil and e) from 5 percent to 50 percent dry matter. In a preferred embodiment, it is desirable that the anhydrous stick composition of the invention contain from 0.01 percent to 20 percent, preferably from 0.01 percent to 15 percent, and most preferably from 0.1 percent to 10 percent, of a nonionic surfactant or emulsifier that cooperates with the organosiloxane emulsifier to cause the film to be more homogeneous. It is believed that the homogeneity of the film helps produce a semi-matte finish. Suitable nonionic surfactants include abietic acid, PEG almond oil stere, beheneth 5-20, ceteareth 2-18, ceteth 1-16, choleth 10-24, coceth 3-10, pareth, nonoxynol, glyceryl derivatives as glyceryl behenate, glyceryl caprylate, caprylate / glyceryl caprate, glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl oleate, isodeceth, laureth, octoxynol, oleth, PEG derivatives, poloxamines, poloxamers, polyglyceryl derivatives, polysorbates, PPG derivatives, etc. Additional examples of these nonionic surfactants are disclosed on pages 588 to 592 of the C.T.F.A. Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Third Edition, 1993, which is incorporated herein by reference. Preferred are polyglyceryl derivatives, and in particular polyglyceryl 4-isostearate and polyglyceryl 3-oleate. A particularly preferred embodiment of the invention comprises anhydrous lipstick compositions comprising by weight in percent: a) from 10 percent to 70 percent cyclomethicone, b) from 0.5 percent to 20 percent copolyol cetyl dimethicone, c) from 0.1 percent to 40 percent of the wax that has a melting temperature of 30 ° to 120 ° C. d) from 0.1 percent to 30 percent oil, e) from 5 percent to 50 percent of a dry particulate matter comprising pigments, powders or mixtures thereof, having a particle size of 0.02 to 100. microns, and f) from 0.01 percent to 10 percent of a nonionic surfactant.
Other Polymers It may also be desirable to add other polymeric materials that improve the adhesion of the cosmetic stick composition to the skin, if these polymeric materials are used, a scale of 0.1 percent to 20 percent, preferably 0.5 percent, is suggested. to 15 percent and more preferably from 1 percent to 10 percent. Examples of these polymers include the various types of polypropylenes as described in U.S. Patent No. 5,302,380 which is incorporated herein by reference. Other polymers that can improve skin adhesion include silicone esters comprising units of the general formula RaREbSiO [_j_ (a + b) / 2] ° Rl3? REysi ° l / 2 'where R and R ^ -3 each one is independently an organic radical such as alkyl, cycloalkyl or aryl, or, for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl, hexyl, octyl, decyl, aryl, cyclohexyl, and the like, a is a number ranging from 0 to 3, b is a number that varies from 0 to 3, a + b is a number that varies from 1 to 3, x is a number from 0 to 3, and is a number from 0 to 3 and the sum of x + y is 3, and wherein RE is a radical containing a carboxylic ester. Preferred Rg radicals are those in which the ester group is formed from one or more fatty acid residues (eg, about 2, often about 3 to 10 carbon atoms) and one or more aliphatic alcohol residues (v. .gr., of approximately 10 to 30 carbon atoms). Examples of these acid residues include those derived from branched chain fatty acids such as isostearic acids, or straight chain fatty acids such as behenic acid. Examples of suitable alcohol residues include those derived from monohydric and polyhydric alcohols, e.g., normal alkanols such as n-propanol and branched-chain eteralkanols such as (3, 3, 3-trimethylolpropoxy) propane. Preferably the ester subgroup (ie, the carbonyloxy radical) will be linked to the silicon atom by a divalent aliphatic chain that is at least 2 or 3 carbon atoms long, eg, an alkylene group or a divalent alkyl ether group. In an especially preferred manner, said chain will form part of the alcohol residue, and not of the acid residue.
Preferably, the silicone ester will have a melting temperature of not more than about 90 ° C, it can be a liquid or solid at room temperature. Preferably it will have a paraffinose sensation and a molecular weight no greater than about 100,000 daltons. Silicone esters having the aforementioned formula are disclosed in U.S. Patent Number 4,725,658 and U.S. Patent Number 5,334,737 which is incorporated herein by reference. Preferred silicone esters are the liquid siloxy silicates disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,334,737, e.g., diisostearoyl trimethylolpropane siloxysilicate (prepared in Examples 9 and 14 of this patent), and the siloxy silicate of dilauroyltrimethylolpropane (prepared in Example 5 of the patent) which can be obtained commercially from General Electric under the factory names SF 1318 and SF 1312, respectively. Materials such as PVP, PVP eicosene copolymers, polyvinylidene copolymer and the like are also suitable as the polymer components. It may also be desirable to add other ingredients, such as preservatives, antioxidants, emollients and so on. If the condensation agents are added, it is suggested from 0.001 percent to 5 percent, preferably from 0.01 percent to 3 percent and most preferably from 0.1 percent to 2 percent by weight, of the total composition. The invention will be further described in relation to the following examples which are indicated for the purpose of illustration only.
EXAMPLE 1 A lipstick resistant to semi-matt transference was manufactured as follows:% weight / weight Q S PVP / Eicosene Copolymer 3.00 3.00 Synthetic hydrocarbon (mineral oil) * 3.00 3.00 Red Calcium Lacquer 7 D &C 1.23 1.23 Red Barium Lacquer 6 D &C 2.80 2.80 Red Iron Oxide 1.01 1.01 Copolyol of cetyl-dimethicone and polyglyceryl-4-isostearate and hexyl laurate (ABIL WE 09) 4.05 4.05 Diisostearoyltrimethylolpropane siloxy silicate 0.91 0.91 Synthetic wax 7.00 7.00 Ceresin 1.10 1.10 Methylparaben 0.30 0.30 Propilparaben 0.10 0.10 BHA 0.10 0.10 Vitamin E acetate 0.10 0.10 Apple extract / hydrogenated vegetable oil 0.50 0.50 Retinyl Palmitate, Cholesterol, Corn Oil 0.10 0.10 Atactic Polypropylene 0.50 0.50 Soybean Oil 0.50 0.50 Fluoro-octyldodecyl Pradofoamoate ** 4.00 4.00 Pentaerythritol Tetraoctanoate 1.70 1.70 Cyclomethicone 50.00 50.00 Titanium dioxide / mica 3.50 3.50 Barium sulfate / mica / titanium dioxide 4.00 4.00 Mica / silica 11.80 Mica / dimethicone 11.80 * Emery 3004 PAO, Henkel Corporation, Emery Group, (liquid polyalphaolefin having the chemical name synthetic aliphatic hydrocarbon) ** Silube GME-F, Development Esther L61125A - Siltech, from Norcross, Georgia.
Liquid ingredients other than cyclomethicones are mixed. The pigments and the other powders are added. The wax materials were combined and heated to a melt and then added to the liquid material with mixing. After mixing thoroughly, the melt was emptied into the desired containers and allowed to cool. The lipstick provides a semi-matte finish to the lips when applied and was resistant to transfer.
EXAMPLE 2 A transfer-resistant lipstick with a semi-matte finish was fabricated as follows:% w / w PVP eicosene copolymer 3.00 Synthetic Hidrocabruro of 3.50 * Padrofoamato fluoro-octadodecilo ** 4.00 Synthetic wax 7.00 Ozokerite 1.00 Ceresin 1.10 Methyl Paraben 0.30 Paraben of propyl 0.10 BHA 0.10 Vitamin E acetate 0.10 Apple extract / hydrogenated vegetable oil 0.30 Polypropylene 0.50 Extract of zabila 0.30 Pentaerythritol Tetraoctanoate PE 48 1.00 Diisostearoyltrimethylolpropane Siloxysilicate 1.00 Copolyol Silwet *** silicone 4.00 Lac Red Ca 7 from D &C 1.00 Lacquer Ba Red 6 from D &C 3.25 Lacquer Al Red 27 from D &C 0.05 Lacquer Al Amarilla 6 of FD &C 0.05 Bismuth / mica oxychloride 5.00 Mica 2.10 Cyclomethicone 49.47 Mica / silica 11.78 * Emery 3004 PAO, Henkel Corporation, Emery Group, (liquid polyalphaolefin) ** Silube GME-F, Development Ester L61125A-Siltech, from Norcross, Georgia *** Silwet, Union Carbide, (dimethyl polysiloxane modified with polyalkylene oxide).
EXAMPLE 3 resistant lipstick transfer with semi-matte finish as follows was made:% w / w PVP eicosene copolymer 3.00 Synthetic hydrocarbon * 3.50 Fluoro-octyldodecyl Pradofoamato of ** 4.00 Synthetic wax 7.00 Ozokerite 1.00 Ceresin Paraben 1.10 methyl Paraben 0.30 propyl 0.10 BHA 0.10 vitamin E acetate 0.10 apple extract / hydrogenated vegetable oil 0.30 Polypropylene 0.50 0.30 Extract Zabila pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate PE-48 1.00 1.00 diisoesteraoil- trimethylolpropane siloxysilicate dimethicone copolyol *** 5.00 lacquer Ca Red 7 D &C 1.00 lacquer Ba Red 6 D &C 25.03 lacquer Red 27 D &. C 0.05 lacquer Yellow 6 FD &. C 0.05 bismuth oxychloride 5.00 Mica 2.10 Cyclomethicone 48.47 Mica / silica 11.78 * Emery 3004 PAO, Henkel Corporation, Emery Group. (liquid polyalphaolefin) ** Silube GME-F, Development Ester L61125A - Siltech, from Norcross, Georgia. *** Dow Corning 190 surfactant.
The aforementioned lipstick was slightly hard, but was not transferred, when applied to the skin it exhibited a semi-matte finish and a slightly sticky feel.
EXAMPLE 4 The lipsticks Q and S of Example 1 were tested comparatively against the Revlon Colorstay and Alexandra DeMarkoff Lips Like Hers. Fifteen jurors were asked to apply each Revlon Colorstay, Lipstick Q, Lipstick S and Alexadra DeMarkoff, Lips Like Hers. The members of the jury were asked to answer the following questions: 1. Kiss Test The lipstick was applied to the lips and allowed to solidify for at least 60 seconds. The members of the jury were asked to kiss the back of their hands and answer the following: a) The members of the jury who reported that the lipstick did not leave a stroke of color: Colorstay Lipstick Q Lipstick S ADM Lips Like Hers 9 6 10 9 b) The members of the jury who reported that the lipstick left a stroke of color: Colorstay Lipstick Q Lipstick S ADM Lips Like Hers 6 9 5 6 2. Application of the lipstick (desired characteristics: smooth, uniform, good final result): Colorstay Lipstick Q Lipstick S ADM Excellent 9 14 14 9 Very good 6 1 1 4 Good - - - 2 Regular Poor 3. Feeling on the lips / comfort level: Colorstay Lipstick Q Lipstick S ADM Excellent 11 14 14 9 Very good 4 1 1 3 Good 2-Fair 1 Poor EXAMPLE The Q and S lipsticks of the Example (sample A) were compared with a commercially available lipstick manufactured by L'Oreal under the Color Endure label (Sample B) to ensure that the product was more moisturizing or moisturizing for the lips. A total of thirteen people, after refraining from using lip products for two days, were recruited for the study. Eleven people were used for the treatment group and two people served as the untreated control group. Dry lips were simulated by blowing a stream of dry air through the lips for a minute. Baseline lipstick readings were carried out using a NOVA Dermal Phase Meter equipped with a special lip test probe. People applied a sufficient amount of the product to cover the lips and were instructed to refrain from licking their lips during the study. This was a half-lip study; that is, alternate sides (left versus right) that contained Sample A versus Sample B. After fifteen minutes, the sample was wiped from the lips and the readings were carried out. Lip moisture improved significantly for both Samples A and B fifteen minutes after application of the product. The average lip moisture improved by 75 percent for Sample A and 43 percent for Sample B. In addition, it speaks a directional superiority of Sample A over Sample B at a 90 percent confidence level. There was no significant change in the control sites not treated through the study. In the context of this study, both samples provided the lips with immediate moisture reinforcement and there is a directional superiority of the formula of Example 1 with respect to L'Oreal's Color Endure as will be indicated below:% Improvement Sample N of Humidity Normal Error Sample Al 11 74.6 * D 21.1 Sample ß2 11 43.0 * D 16.3 Control Not Treated 2 NC NC 1 Lipstick from Example 1 2 Color Endure from L'Oreal N = Number of people tested * significant improvement at the 95 percent level of reliability. NC = No change D = Directional difference between samples at 90 percent reliability level.

Claims (27)

  1. R E I V I N D I C A C I O N E S: 1. An anhydrous cosmetic stick composition with improved transfer resistance comprising, by weight of the total composition: a) from 10 percent to 70 percent of a volatile solvent, and b) from 0.1 percent to 40 percent of an emulsifier of polymeric organosiloxane containing at least one hydrophilic radical and at least one lipophilic radical. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the HLB of the organosiloxane emulsifier is from 2 to 18. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the surfactant adjuvant is a non-ionic emulsifier having an HBL. from 2 to 10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polymeric organosiloxane emulsionate has the general formula: MDxD'yD "zM wherein each M is independently a substituted or unsubstituted terminal block trimethylsiloxyl unit. wherein one or more of the hydrogens in the terminally blocked methyl groups are substituted, or one or more of the methyl groups are substituted with a substituent which is a lipophilic radical, a hydrophilic radical or mixtures thereof, D, D 'and D "are difunctional siloxy units substituted with methyl, hydrogen, a lipophilic radical, a hydrophilic radical or mixtures thereof, x = 0-5000 y = 0-5000 yz = 0-5000 with The proviso that the compound contains at least one lipophilic radical and at least one hydrophilic radical. The composition according to claim 4, wherein each M is an unsubstituted terminal block trimethylsiloxy unit, D and D 'are RR'Si02 / 2, D "is RRSi02 /, x, y, yz, each one is independently 0-1000, R is methyl or hydrogen and R 'is a lipophilic radical or a hydrophilic radical 6. The composition according to claim 5, wherein D is Si [(CH3)] [(CH2) nCH3)] 02/2 where n = 1-40, D 'is Si [(CH3)] [(CH2) or-0-PE] 02/2 where PE is (-C2H 0) to (-C3H60) bH, o = 0-40, and D "is Si (CH3) 202/2, a is 1-100 and b is 1-100. 7. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the organosiloxane emulsifier is copolyol of cetyl-dimethicone. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the organosiloxane emulsifier is dimethicone copolyol. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising from 0.1 percent to 40 percent by weight of the total composition, of a cosmetically acceptable wax. The composition according to claim 9, wherein the wax has a melting temperature of 30 ° C to 120 ° C. 11. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising 0.1 percent a 30 percent of a cosmetically acceptable oil. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising from 5 percent to 50 percent of a dry particulate matter having a particle size of 0.02 to 200 microns. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising a weight: from 1 percent to 40 percent of a cosmetically acceptable wax, from 0.1 percent to 30 percent oil, and from 5 percent to 50 percent percent of a dry particulate matter that has a particle size of 0.02 to 200 microns. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the volatile solvent has a viscosity of from 0.5 to 25 centistokes at 25 ° C. 15. The composition according to claim 14, wherein the volatile solvent is a linear or cyclic silicone. 16. The composition according to claim 15, wherein the volatile solvent is cyclomethicone. 17. The composition according to claim 13, wherein the organosiloxane emulsifier has the formula: MDxD'yD "zM wherein each M is independently an unsubstituted terminal trimethylsiloxy unit, or a terminally blocked trimethylsiloxy unit. substituted where one or more hydrogens in the methyl group are substituted, or one or more methyl groups are substituted with a substituent which is a lipophilic radical, a hydrophilic radical or mixtures thereof, D, D 'and D "are difunctional siloxy units substituted with methyl, hydrogen, a lipophilic radical, a hydrophilic radical or mixtures thereof, x = 0-5000 y = 0-5000 and z = 0-5000 with the proviso that the compound contains at least one lipophilic radical and at least one hydrophilic radical. according to claim 8, wherein M = RRRSi?! / 2 D and D '= RR'Si02 / 2 D "= RRSi02 / 2 where R is methyl or hydrogenated, R' is a hydrophilic radical or a lipophilic radical , yx, y, yz each are independently 0-1000. 19. The composition according to 18, where: M = trimethylsiloxy D = Si [(CH3)] [(CH2) nCH3)] 02/2 where n = 1-40, D '= Si [(CH3) ] [(CH2) 0-O-PE] 02/2 where PE is (-C2H?) To (- ^ üßO)] ^, o = 0-40, a = l-100 and b = l-100 D " = Yes (CH3) 202 2, 20. The composition according to claim 19, wherein the organosiloxane emulsifier is cetyldimethicone copolyol. The composition, according to claim 19, wherein the organosiloxane emulsifier is dimethicone copolyol. The composition according to claim 13, wherein the organosiloxane emulsifier is present as a mixture of about 25 percent to 50 percent copolyol of cetyl dimethicone, from 25 percent to 50 percent of an organic emulsifier that no silicone, and from 25 percent to 50 percent of an emollient or oil, all percentages being by weight of the total mixture of the organosiloxane emulsifier. 23. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the cosmetically acceptable oil comprises an ester of fluoro-guebert citrate. 24. The composition according to claim 23, wherein the fluoro-guebert citrate ester is fluoro-octododecyl pradofoamate. 25. A method for providing a transfer-resistant cosmetic stick composition that provides a semi-matt finish when applied to the skin, the cosmetic stick composition contains from 10 percent to 70 percent of a volatile solvent, 0.1 percent to 40 percent of a cosmetically acceptable wax, and 5 percent to 50 percent in a powder and 0.1 percent to 30 percent oil, which includes adding to the composition from 0.1 percent to 40 percent of a polymeric organosiloxane emulsionate having at least one lipophilic radical and at least one hydrophilic radical, the percentages are based on the total weight of the composition wherein the composition containing the organosiloxane emulsifier exhibits improved transfer resistance when it is compared to the same composition that does not contain the organosiloxane emulsionate. 26. The method according to claim 25, wherein the polymeric organosiloxane emulsifier has an HLB of 2 to 18. 27. The method according to claim 26, wherein the polymeric organosiloxane emulsifier has a HLB of 2 to 12
MXPA/A/1997/004985A 1995-11-03 1997-07-01 Cosmetic bar compositions resistant to transfer with semi-m finish MXPA97004985A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US08/552,667 US5725845A (en) 1995-11-03 1995-11-03 Transfer resistant cosmetic stick compositions with semi-matte finish
US08552667 1995-11-03
PCT/US1996/017362 WO1997016157A1 (en) 1995-11-03 1996-10-30 Transfer resistant cosmetic stick compositions with semi-matte finish

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Publication Number Publication Date
MX9704985A MX9704985A (en) 1997-10-31
MXPA97004985A true MXPA97004985A (en) 1998-07-03

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