MXPA06010210A - Hair treatment composition comprising sugar lactone - Google Patents

Abstract

a) from 0.01%to 10%by weight of the total composition of beeswax;and b) from 0.01%to 10%by weight of the total composition of a sugar lactone.

Description

COMPOSITION OF TREATMENT FOR HAIR COMPRISING LACTONE OF SUGAR FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to hair treatment compositions. In particular, it relates to hair treatment compositions that straighten hair.

BACKGROUND AND PRIOR ART Considerations of style and fashion can lead to changes in the desired condition / appearance of the hair. A group of consumers want hair that is more straight and easier to handle after treatment: by this is meant reduced hair volume, less fluff and greater mutual alignment of the hair. Hair straightening compositions have been around for some time. Many of the compositions that are on the market are based on chemical treatment of the hair in a two-step process using reducing agents based on thiol or hydroxide, followed by a step of neutralization or oxidation. Such systems have several negatives associated with them; since the process itself takes a relatively long time and is difficult to drive, in many cases this process of alignment is performed by a qualified stylist in a professional salon. Additionally, the straightening process damages the hair, has an unpleasant odor and can cause irritation to the scalp.

An alternative way to straighten hair is to apply adhesive conditioning materials, such as high molecular weight polymers, such as silicones (polydialkylsiloxanes) or hydrocarbon oils or waxes to hair. Although the presence of such materials in compositions can lead to the desired attributes of reduced hair volume, less puffiness and greater mutual alignment, it can also lead to problems of sensory negatives, as it can leave the hair feeling coated, greasy and sticky. The present invention relates to a hair straightening formulation without the aforementioned negatives.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION In a first aspect, the invention provides an aqueous treatment composition for hair comprising: a) from 0.01% to 10% by weight of the total composition of beeswax; and b) from 0.01% to 10% by weight of the total composition of a sugar lactone. The invention also relates to a method for straightening hair by applying the composition described above to the hair.

Definitions By insoluble in water it is meant that a material has a solubility in water of 0.1% or less by weight of water at 25 ° C. By non-volatile it is meant that a material has a vapor pressure of less than 1000 Pa at 25 ° C. Viscosities, except where otherwise specified, are dynamic viscosities. These can be measured using a cone and plate rheometer at 25 ° C and a cutting speed of 0.01 s "1. Where reference is made to particles in the description, it is meant the broad definition of particles, indicating that a material is present. In a divided form, if the material is a liquid, the particles will be in the form of droplets.The particle sizes are adequately measured by scattering laser light using an instrument, such as a MalvernM R Mastersizer. they are expressed as average particle diameters (D50).

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Aqueous composition The compositions according to the invention comprise water. Suitably, the compositions according to the invention comprise 60 or more, preferably 65 or more, more preferably 70 or more percent by weight of water.

Monosaccharide The composition of the invention comprises a monosaccharide, in particular a sugar lactone, preferably gluconolactone, especially glucono-delta-lactone.

The level of gluconolactone is preferably greater than 0.5% by weight of the total composition, more preferably the level of gluconolactone is from 1% by weight to 8% by weight of the total composition, most preferably from 2 to 6% by weight.

Wax The composition of the invention preferably comprises beeswax. Wax is available as a commercial by-product of honey collection and refining. The beeswax is preferably used in the particulate form as particles with a mean diameter (D50) of 50 microns or less, preferably 20 microns or less, more preferably 10 microns or less and even more preferably 1 micron or less . The beeswax is present suitably from 0.2% to 4% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.4% up to 3%, more preferably from 0.6% to 2%. The beeswax can be pre-formed in an emulsion or dispersion before addition to the rest of the composition. A preferred process for incorporating the beeswax into the composition comprises the steps of (i) heating the composition without beeswax at a temperature of 65 ° C or higher, preferably 75 ° C or higher, (ii) melting the wax of bee, (ii) combine the beeswax and the rest of the composition while stirring, and (iv) cool the composition at room temperature, usually 25 ° C. Surprisingly, beeswax is self-emulsifying without the need for vigorous agitation if such a process is followed. An alternative process for incorporating beeswax into the composition involves the following steps: i) Preparing an aqueous solution or dispersion of emulsifier at a temperature of 65 ° C or more, preferably 70 ° C or more, more preferably 80 ° C or more; plus. ii) Prepare molten beeswax at a temperature of 65 ° C or more, preferably 70 ° C or more, more preferably 80 ° C or more. iii) Mix and homogenize the liquids of steps (i) and (ii). iv) Cool the resulting dispersion to room temperature while stirring gently. The emulsifier can be any suitable surfactant, but preferably it is a mixture of cationic surfactant and fatty alcohol, present such that the weight ratio of emulsifier to beeswax is from 1: 1000 to 1: 10, preferably 1: 50. up to 1: 20. A preferred emulsifying system is cetyl trimethylammonium chloride with cetearyl alcohol at a weight ratio from 1: 5 to 5: 1.

Silicone polymer If present, the silicone polymer in compositions of the invention preferably has a viscosity at 25 ° C measured at a cutting speed of 0.01 s "1 of 600 Pa.s, preferably more than 1000, more preferably more than 10 000, still more preferably greater than 100 000 Pa.s. The silicone polymer can be based on any suitable polydialkyl or polydiarylsiloxane, but is preferably based on polydimethylsiloxane.The silicone polymer is preferably insoluble in water and not Volatile Suitably, the silicone polymer is present in compositions of the invention as discrete particles with an average diameter (D50) of 50 microns or less, preferably 20 microns or less, more preferably 10 microns or less and even more preferably 1 or less In an alternative embodiment of the invention, the silicone polymer may be in the form of a microemulsion, with an average particle diameter of less than 0.15 microns Preferably, the silicone polymer is used as a pre-formed emulsion, which can be added to the rest of the composition. This avoids the need for high shear mixing of the composition to form appropriately sized particles of the silicone polymer in the composition. It is highly preferred if the silicone polymer is a copolymer of divinyldimethicone and dimethicone having the structure: CH? C where x, y and z are all integers greater than 1. It is particularly preferred if the copolymer has a viscosity greater than 100 000 Pa.s at a cutting speed of 0.01 s-1). A suitable commercial material provided as an aqueous emulsion is Dow Corning HMW 2220. The silicone polymer is cniently present as from 0.1% to 4% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.3% to 3%, more preferably from 0.5% to 2%.

Aqueous Hair Conditioner Compositions The compositions suitable for the application of the invention include mousses, lotions and creams. A particularly preferred composition is a shower gel or shampoo.

Shower shampoos and gels In a particular aspect, the compositions according to the invention are shampoos or shower cleansing gels, which additionally comprise one or more cleansing surfactants, which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to hair.

Cleaning Surfactant Suitable cleaning surfactants, which may be used alone or in combination, are selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Mixtures of anionic and amphoteric surfactants are preferred.

Anionic cleaning surfactant The shampoo compositions according to the invention will usually comprise one or more anionic cleaning surfactants, which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair. Examples of suitable anionic cleaning surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates and alpha-olefin sulfonates, especially their salts of sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and can be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates may contain from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule. Normal cleaning anionic surfactants for use in shampoo compositions of the invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulfonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate and N-lauryl sarcosinate sodium. The most preferred anionic surfactants are sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (n) EO, (where n varies from 1 to 3), ammonium lauryl sulfate and lauryl ether sulfate (n) EO ammonium, (where n varies from 1 to 3). Mixtures of any of the above anionic cleaning surfactants may also be suitable. The total amount of anionic cleansing surfactant in shampoo compositions of the invention is generally from 0.5 to 45, preferably from 1.5 to 35, more preferably from 5 to 20 weight percent of the composition.

Co-surfactant The composition may include co-surfactants, to help impart aesthetic, physical or cleansing properties to the composition. A preferred example is an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, which may be included in an amount ranging from 0 to about 8, preferably from 1 to 4 weight percent.

Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulfobetaines (sultaines), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl ampropropionates, alkylalanoglycinates, alkyl amidoproyl hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the groups alkyl and acyl have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms. Normal amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulfopropyl betaine and preferably lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocacanopropionate. Another preferred example is a nonionic surfactant, which may be included in an amount ranging from 0 to 8, preferably from 2 to 5 weight percent of the composition.

For example, representative nonionic surfactants that can be included in the shampoo compositions of the invention include condensation products of phenols or straight or branched chain alcohols., priary or secondary, aliphatic (C8-C18), with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups. Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- or dialkyl alkanolamides. Examples include coconut mono- or di-ethanolamide and coconut mono-isopropanolamide. Additional nonionic surfactants, which may be included in shampoo compositions of the invention are the alkyl polyglycosides (APGs). Normally, the APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected (optionally via a bridge group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups. The preferred APGs are defined by the following formula: RO - (G) n wherein R is a straight or branched chain alkyl group, which may be saturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group. R can represent an average alkyl chain length from about C5 to C20. Preferably, R represents an average alkyl chain length from about C8 to about C-? 2. Most preferably, the value of R falls between about 9.5 and about 10.5. G can be selected from monosaccharide residues of C5 or C6, and is preferably a glucoside. G can be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof. Preferably G is glucose. The degree of polymerization, n, can have a value from about 1 to about 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n falls in the range from about 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably, the value of n falls in the range from about 1.3 to about 1.5. Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the invention are commercially available and include, for example, those materials identified as: Oramix NS10, eg Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 ej Henkel. Other nonionic surfactants derived from sugar, which may be included in compositions of the invention, include the amides of C 10 -C 18 N-alkyl (C 2 Ce) polyhydroxy fatty acids, such as the C 2 -C 4 β-N-methyl glucamides , as described for example, in WO 92 06154 and US 5 194 639, and the N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as C? 0-C18 N- (3-methoxypropyl) glucamide. The composition according to the invention may also optionally include one or more cationic co-surfactants included in an amount from 0.01 to 10, more preferably from 0.05 to 5, most preferably from 0.05 to 2 weight percent of the composition. The total amount of cleaning surfactant (including any co-surfactant, and / or any emulsifier) in compositions of the invention is generally from 1 to 25, preferably from 2 to 20, more preferably from 5 to 17 weight percent of the composition. A preferred mixture of cleaning surfactants is a combination of ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, cocamide PEG 5 and cocamide MEA (CTFA designations).

Cationic deposition polymers A cationic polymer is a preferred ingredient in shampoo compositions of the invention, to enhance the conditioning performance of the shampoo, if the average particle size of the beeswax or silicone polymer is 10 microns or less. The cationic polymer can be a homopolymer or be formed by two or more types of monomers. The molecular weight of the polymer will generally be between 5 000 and 10 000 000 Daltons, usually at least 10,000 and preferably from 100,000 to 2,000,000. The polymers will have groups containing cationic nitrogen, such as protonated amino or quaternary ammonium groups, or a mixture of them. The group containing cationic nitrogen will generally be present as a substituent in a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic polymer. In this way, when the polymer is not a homopolymer, it may contain non-cationic monomer separating units. Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory (CTFA Cosmetic Ingredients Directory), 3rd edition. The ratio of cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give a polymer having a cationic charge density in the required range. Suitable cationic conditioning polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having functionalities of quaternary ammonium or cationic amine with water-soluble spacing monomers, such as (meth) acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth) acrylamides, alkyl (meth) acrylate , vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine. The alkyl and dialkyl substitute monomers preferably have C.sub.C.sub.C- alkyl groups, more preferably alkyl groups of d.3. Other suitable separators include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol. The cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending on the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general, secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary amines, are preferred. The vinyl monomers substituted with amine and amines can be polymerized in the amine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization. The cationic conditioning polymers may comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from monomer substituted with amine and / or quaternary ammonium and / or compatible spacer monomers. Suitable cationic conditioning polymers include, for example: - copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and 1-vinyl-3-methyl-imidazolium salt (for example, chloride salt), referred to in industry by Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, (CTFA), as Polyquaternium-16. This material is commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, NJ, US) under the trade name LUVIQUAT (for example, LUVIQUAT FC 370); - copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-11. This material is commercially available from Gaf Corporation (Wayne, NJ, US) under the trade name GAFQUAT (eg, GAFQUAT 755N); cationic polymers containing diallyl quaternary ammonium including, for example, homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; - mineral acid salts of aminoalkyl esters of homo- and copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbone atoms, (as described in US Pat. No. 4,009,256); - cationic polyacrylamides (as described in WO95 / 2231 1). Other cationic conditioning polymers that can be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives and cationic guar gum derivatives. Suitably, such cationic polysaccharide polymers have a charge density from 0.1 to 4 meq / g. Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in compositions of the invention include those of the formula: A-O- [R-N + (R1) (R2) (R3) X "], wherein: A is a residual group of anhydroglucose, such as an anhydroglucose residue of starch or cellulose. R is an alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof. R1, R2 and R3 independently represent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms for each cationic portion (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R1, R2 and R3), is preferably about 2 or less, and x is an anionic counterion. Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, US) in its polymer series Polymer JR (trademark) and LR (trademark), such as hydroxyethyl cellulose salts reacted with epoxide substituted with trimethyl ammonium, referred to in industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10. Other type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric salts of quaternary ammonium hydroxyethyl cellulose with epoxide substituted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, US) under the trade name Polymer LM-200. Other suitable polysaccharide cationic polymers include quaternary nitrogen containing cellulose ethers (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418) and starch and etherified cellulose copolymers (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581). A particularly suitable type of polysaccharide cationic polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc in its trademark series JAGUAR). Examples are JAGUAR C13S, which has a low degree of substitution of the cationic groups and high viscosity. JAGUAR C? 5, have a moderate degree of substitution and a low viscosity, JAGUAR C17 (high degree of substitution, high viscosity), JAGUAR C16, which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups as well as cationic groups of ammonium quaternary, and JAGUAR 162, which is a guar of high transparency, medium viscosity having a low degree of substitution.

Preferably, the cationic conditioning polymer is selected from cationic cellulose and cationic guar derivatives. Particularly preferred cationic polymers are JAGUAR C'13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17, JAGUAR C16 and JAGUAR C162.

The conditioning cationic polymer will generally be present in compositions of the invention at levels from 0.01 to 5, preferably from 0.02 to 1, more preferably from 0.04 to 0.5 percent by weight of the composition.

Suspension Agents Optionally, the compositions according to the invention may further comprise from 0.1 to 10 weight percent, preferably from 0.6% to 6% of a suspending agent. Suitable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of carboxylic acid-containing monomers and acrylic esters, crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide gums and long-chain, crystalline acyl derivatives. The long chain acyl derivative is desirably selected from ethylene glycol stearate, fatty acid alkanolamides having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3 distearate are preferred long chain acyl derivatives. Polyacrylic acid is commercially available as Carbopol 420, Carbopol 488 or Carbopol 493. Polymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with a polyfunctional agent can also be used, they are commercially available as Carbopol 910, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 941 and Carbopol 980. An example of a suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing a monomer and esters of Acrylic acid is Carbopol 1342. All Carbopol (trademark) materials are available from Goodrich. Suitable cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters are Pemulen TR1 or Pemulen TR2. A suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, for example, that available as Kelzan mu. However, if the average diameter of the particles of the beeswax and the silicone polymer is less than 10 microns, it is preferred if the composition is free of suspending agent, by which is meant that the compositions of the invention they comprise less than 0.01% by weight of suspending agent. This is because suspension agents can be deposited on the hair, leading to a coated sensation for some users.

Other ingredients The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain other ingredients suitable for use in hair cleansing and conditioning compositions. Other hydrophobic conditioning oils, insoluble in water, may be included in addition to those of the invention. The compositions of the present invention may also contain auxiliaries suitable for hair care. In general, such ingredients are included individually at a level of up to 2 weight percent of the total composition.

Among the appropriate hair care aids are natural nutrients for hair roots, such as amino acids and sugars. Examples of suitable amino acids include arginine, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, serine and valine, and / or precursors and derivatives thereof. The amino acids can be added alone, in mixtures, or in the form of peptides, for example, di- and tripeptides. The amino acids can also be added in the form of a protein hydrolyzate, such as a collagen or keratin hydrolyzate. The suitable sugars are glucose, dextrose and fructose. These can be added alone or in the form of, for example, fruit extracts. A particularly preferred combination of natural nutrients for hair roots for inclusion in compositions of the invention is isoleucine and glucose. A particularly preferred amino acid nutrient is arginine. Another suitable auxiliary is glycolic acid.

Method of use The compositions of the invention are intended primarily for topical application to the hair and / or scalp of a human subject in rinse or leave-on compositions. The compositions are used to provide straightening, volume and / or reduced fluff of hair style after the hair is dried. In order to achieve the benefits, it is not necessary to dry the hair using a hot air hair dryer, and it is preferred if the hair is allowed to dry naturally after drying with the towel and brushing.

Examples Table 1% by weight in Table 1 refers to the actual active chemical in the composition and not the diluted raw material. active Volume laser analysis 2 g of 25 cm long Asian hair loops were degreased using diethyl ether and rinsed in water. Using 5 loops per treatment, 0.2 ml of each of the shampoo compositions (either A, B or 1) was spread along the length of the loop and stirred for 30 seconds, followed by a rinse for 30 seconds. The washing process was repeated again using 0.2 ml of shampoo placed along the length of the loop and stirred for 30 seconds, followed by a rinse in water for 1 minute. The loops were combed while suspended vertically from a staple stand, then rinsed with a spray of water from a water bottle. Then the locks were allowed to dry naturally during the night. After drying, each loop was suspended vertically from a staple station and a Helium-Neon laser of 632.8 nanometer wavelength shone perpendicular to the untouched loop, 5 cm from the bottom of the loop and the illuminated image was recorded on a optical disc using a 35 mm camera. The image analysis was performed on the resulting image to estimate the scattering of each hair loop 5 cm from the bottom of each loop (expressed as average radial distribution in mm).

The smaller the value of the spreading, the smaller the apparent volume of the loop and the greater the spreading of the fibers. The average results obtained for the radial distribution were: Example 1 13.2 Example A 16 Hence, the product according to the invention showed to give more straight hair with improved manageability.

Claims (10)

1. An aqueous treatment composition for hair comprising: a) from 0.01% to 10% by weight of the total composition of beeswax; and b) from 0.01% to 10% by weight of the total composition of a sugar lactone.

2. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1, wherein the sugar lactone is gluconolactone.

3. A hair care composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the sugar lactone level is greater than 0.5% by weight of the total composition.

4. A hair care composition according to claim 3, wherein the sugar lactone level is from 2% by weight to 6% by weight of the total composition.

5. A hair care composition according to any preceding claim, which is a composition for rinsing.

6. A composition according to claim 5, wherein the composition is a cleaning composition further comprising from 1% to 25% by weight of the total composition of a cleaning surfactant.

7. A composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising a silicone polymer.

8. A composition according to claim 7, wherein the beeswax and the silicone polymer are present in the form of particles with an average diameter (D50) of 50 microns or less.

9. A method for straightening hair by applying a composition to the hair according to any preceding claim.

10. The use of a composition according to any preceding claim for straightening hair.