MXPA06004592A - Hair care composition - Google Patents

Abstract

Aqueous hair conditioning and cleansing compositions comprising both beeswax and a silicone polymer to provide 5 improved straightness and manageability for hair from compositions which have improved stability to phase separation of ingredients.

Description

COMPOSITION FOR CUI GIVING HAIR TECHNICAL FIELD The invention concerns improvements to hair conditioning compositions. Such compositions have, as one of their objectives, the improvement of the condition of the hair when it is wet or dry, by which is meant properties such as ease of brushing, detangling, softness and smoothness of the hair. The conditioning effect may be a present benefit in addition to the main purpose of the composition (such as for shampoos, styling products or hair dye systems), or may be the main purpose of the composition, such as for hair conditioners that are rinse or conditioners that are left on and mousses. The invention concerns in particular conditioning shampoos or shower gels, which are used to wash hair, remove grease and dirt and which also provide hair conditioning benefits.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Consumers of different backgrounds, cultures and ethnic backgrounds have different preferences for hair conditioning. The considerations of style and fashion also lead to changes in the desired condition of the hair. A group of consumers want hair that is smoother and easier to handle after treatment: by this is meant reduced hair volume, less sponginess and greater mutual alignment of the hair. One way to achieve this is to apply adhesive conditioning materials, such as high molecular weight polymers, such as silicones (polydialkylsiloxanes) or hydrocarbon oils or hair waxes. Although the presence of such materials in the compositions can lead to the desired attributes of reduced hair volume, less sponginess and greater mutual alignment, it can also lead to sensory negative problems since it can leave the hair feeling coated, greasy and sticky. Moreover, water insoluble conditioning materials are generally suspended in compositions, in particular shampoo compositions, such as particles or droplets, usually less than 50 microns in diameter. This is in order to achieve the deposition of conditioning particles or droplets on the hair and to ensure that the product remains relatively stable upon separation of the ingredients in storage. In order to achieve suspension of the conditioning material, the shampoos are sometimes designed to have a slimming viscosity profile of cut so that they are viscous at low cutting speeds, so that the conditioning material is suspended, but less viscous at higher cutting speeds, so that the shampoo can be emptied from the bottle. The desired viscosity profile for the composition can be achieved by the use of viscosity modifiers such as polymers, but it can also be achieved by designing the micellar phase structure of the shampoo using electrolytes. Some adhesive conditioning materials, such as mineral oils and waxes and ester oils can interact with the phase structure of the shampoo during long-term storage, leading to the loss of structural stability and consequent physical separation of ingredients. It has now been found that by using a combination of a high viscosity silicone polymer and beeswax in a water treatment composition for hair, conditioning effects of smoothing and workability can be achieved while minimizing the negative problems of tackiness and Coated feeling Moreover, it has also been found that the combination of beeswax and silicone polymer minimizes the problems of separation of ingredients in storage in compositions structured with surfactant, in particular for shampoos and rinse-out conditioning compositions.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION In a first aspect, the invention provides a hair conditioning composition comprising: a) 0. 1% to 8% by weight of the total composition of beeswax b) 0.01% to 10% by weight of the total composition of a silicone polymer with a viscosity at 0.01 Hz of at least 80,000 mm2 / s at 25 ° C. In a second aspect, the invention concerns a process for preparing the hair care composition discussed above, comprising the step of emulsifying the beeswax before the addition to the composition.

In a third aspect, the invention concerns the use of the composition discussed above for conditioning hair.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION By insoluble in water it is meant that a material has a solubility in water of 0.1% or less by weight of water at 25 ° C. By non-volatile it is meant that a material has a vapor pressure of less than 1000 Pa at 25 ° C. Viscosities, except where otherwise specified, are dynamic viscosities. These can be measured using a cone and plate rheometer at 25 ° C and at a cutting speed of 0.01 sA. Where the particles are referenced in the description, it means the broad definition of particles, indicating that a material is present in a divided form. If the material is a liquid, the particles will be in the form of droplets. The particle sizes are suitably measured by laser light scattering using an instrument such as a Malvernlv, R Mastersizer. The particle diameters are expressed as average particle diameters (D5n).

Aqueous composition The compositions according to the invention comprise water. Suitably, the compositions according to the invention comprise 60 or more, preferably 65 or more, more preferably 70 or more percent by weight of water.

Beeswax Beeswax is secreted down from the glands under your abdomen. It is used by bees to build the panel. Wax is available as a commercial by-product of honey collection and refining. Beeswax is preferably used in the invention in a particulate form as particles with a mean diameter (D50) of 50 microns or less, preferably 20 microns or less, more preferably 10 microns or less and even more preferably 1 micron. or less. The beeswax is present from 0. 1% to 8% by weight of the total composition, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 3%, most preferably from 0.6% to 2%. The beeswax can be pre-formed in an emulsion or dispersion before addition to the rest of the composition. Preferably, the beeswax is pre-formed in an emulsion. A preferred process for incorporating the beeswax into the composition comprises the steps of (i) heating the composition without beeswax at a temperature of 65 ° C or more, preferably 75 ° C or more, (ii) melting the wax of bee, (iii) combine the beeswax and the rest of the composition while stirring, and (iv) cool the composition at room temperature, usually 25 ° C. Surprisingly, beeswax is self-emulsifying without the need for vigorous agitation if such a process is followed. An alternative preferred process for incorporating beeswax into the composition involves the following steps: i) Preparing an aqueous solution or dispersion of emulsifier at a temperature of 65 ° C or more, preferably 70 ° C or more, more preferably 80 ° C or more ii) Prepare the molten bee wax at a temperature of 65 ° C or more, preferably 70 ° C or more, more preferably 80 ° C or more. iii) Mix and homogenize the liquids of steps (i) and (ii). iv) Cool the resulting dispersion to room temperature while stirring gently. v) Add the resulting emulsion to a base formulation. The emulsifier can be any suitable surfactant, but preferably it is a mixture of cationic surfactant and fatty alcohol, present so that the weight ratio of emulsifier to beeswax is from 1: 1 00 to 1: 1 0, preferably 1: 50 to 1: 20. A preferred emulsifying system is cetyl trimethylammonium chloride with cetearyl alcohol at a weight ratio from 1: 5 to 5: 1. Preferably, the weight ratio of beeswax to silicone polymer is from 4: 1 to 1: 2, more preferably from 2: 1 to 1: 1 in the composition.

Silicone polymer The silicone polymer in compositions of the suitable invention has a viscosity at 25 ° C measured at a cutting speed of at least 0. 01 Hza of 80,000 mm2 / s, preferably of at least 1 million mm2 / s, more preferably of at least 1 0 million mm2 / s, even more preferably greater than 100 million mm2 / s. The silicone polymer may be based on any suitable polydialkyl or polydiarylsiloxane, but is preferably based on polydimethylsiloxane. The silicone polymer is preferably insoluble in water and non-volatile. Suitably, the silicone polymer is present in compositions of the invention as discrete particles with an average diameter (D50) of 50 microns or less, preferably 20 microns or less, more preferably 10 microns or less and even more preferably 1 miera or less. In an alternative embodiment of the invention, the silicone polymer may be in the form of a microemulsion, with an average particle diameter of less than 0.15 meters. Preferably, the silicone polymer is used as a pre-formed emulsion, which can be added to the remainder of the composition.

This avoids the need for high-cut mixing of the composition to form appropriately sized particles of the silicone polymer in the composition. It is highly preferred if the silicone polymer is a copolymer of divinyldimethicone and dimethicone having the structure: where x, y and z are all integers greater than í. It is particularly preferred if the copolymer has a viscosity greater than 1 00 million mm 2 / s at a cutting speed of 0.01 s and 25 ° C. A suitable commercial material supplied as an aqueous emulsion is Dow Corning HMW 2220. The silicone polymer is suitably present as from 0.01% to 10% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 5%, more preferably from 0.5% to 4%.

Aqueous Hair Conditioner Compositions The compositions suitable for the application of the invention include mousses, lotions and creams. Hair conditioners are preferred for rinsing. A particularly preferred composition is a shower gel or cleansing shampoo.

Shampoos In a particular aspect, the compositions according to the invention are shampoos or cleansing shower gels, which further comprise one or more cleansing surfactants, which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

Cleaning Surfactant Suitable cleaning surfactants, which may be used alone or in combination, are selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants and mixtures thereof. Mixtures of anionic and amphoteric surfactants are preferred.

Anionic Cleaning Surfactant The shampoo compositions according to the invention will usually comprise one or more anionic cleaning surfactants, which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair. Examples of suitable anionic cleaning surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoyl isethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates and alpha-olefin sulfonates, especially their salts of sodium, magnesium, ammonium and mono-di and triethanolamine. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and can be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates may contain from 1 to 10 units of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per molecule. Normal anionic cleaning surfactants for use in shampoo compositions of the invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulfonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate. The most preferred anionic surfactants are sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (n) EO, (where n varies from 1 to 3), ammonium lauryl sulfate and lauryl ether sulfate (n) EO ammonium, (where n varies from 1 to 3). Mixtures of any of the above anionic cleaning surfactants may also be suitable. The total amount of anionic cleansing surfactant in shampoo compositions of the invention is generally from 0.5 to 45, preferably from 1.5 to 35, more preferably from 5 to 20 weight percent of the composition.

Co-surfactant The composition may include co-surfactants, to help impart aesthetic, physical or cleansing properties to the composition. A preferred example is an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, which may be included in an amount ranging from 0 to about 8, preferably from 1 to 4 weight percent. Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulfobetaines (sultaines), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have 8 to 1 9 carbon atoms. Normal amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention include lauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulfopropyl betaine and preferably lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocacanopropionate. Another preferred example is a nonionic surfactant, which may be included in an amount ranging from 0 to 8, preferably from 2 to 5 weight percent of the composition. For example, representative nonionic surfactants which may be included in shampoo compositions of the invention include condensation products of phenols or aliphatic (C 8 -C 8) alcohols, primary or secondary, straight or branched chain with alkylene oxides, usually oxide of ethylene and generally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups. Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- or dialkyl alkanolamides. Examples include coconut mono- or di-ethanolamide and coconut mono-isopropanolamide. Additional nonionic surfactants, which may be included in shampoo compositions of the invention are the alkyl polyglycosides (APGs). Typically, the APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups. The preferred APGs are defined by the following formula: RO - (G) n where R is a straight or branched chain alkyl group, which may be saturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group. R can represent an average alkyl chain length from about C5 to about C20. Preferably, R represents an average alkyl chain length from about C8 to about C1 2. Most preferably, the value of R falls between about 9.5 and about 1 0.5. G may be selected from monosaccharide residues of C5 or C6, and preferably is a glucoside. G can be selected from the group comprising glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof. Preferably, G is glucose. The degree of polymerization, n, can have a value from about 1 to about 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n falls in the range from about 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably, the value of n falls in the range from about 1.3 to about 1.5. Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the invention are commercially available and include, for example, those materials identified as: Oramix NS 1 0 eg Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 ej Henkel. Other nonionic surfactants derived from sugar which can be included in compositions of the invention include the amides of C 1 0 -C 1 8 N-alkyl (C 1 -C 6) polyhydroxy fatty acids, such as C 12 -C 8 N-methyl glucamides , as described for example in WO 92 061 54 and US 5 1 94 639, and the N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as C1 0-C1 8 N- (3-methoxypropyl) giucamide. The composition according to the invention may also optionally include one or more cationic co-surfactants included in an amount from 0.01 to 1.0, more preferably from 0.05 to 5, most preferably from 0.05 to 2 weight percent of the composition.

The total amount of cleansing surfactant (including any co-surfactant and / or any emulsifier) in compositions of the invention is generally from 1 to 25, preferably from 2 to 20, more preferably from 5 to 17 weight percent of the composition . A preferred mixture of cleaning surfactants is a combination of ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, cocamide PEG 5 and cocamide MEA (CTFA designations).

Cationic deposition polymers A cationic polymer is a preferred ingredient in shampoo compositions of the invention, to enhance the conditioning performance of the shampoo, if the average particle size of beeswax or silicone polymer is 1 microns or less. less. The cationic polymer may be a homopolymer or may be formed by two or more types of monomers. The molecular weight of the polymer will generally be between 5 000 and 10 000 000 Daltons, usually at least 10 000 and preferably from 100 000 to 2 000 000. The polymers will have groups containing cationic nitrogen, such as quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups , or a mixture thereof. The group containing cationic nitrogen will generally be present as a substituent in a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic polymer. In this way, when the polymer is not a homopolymer it can contain non-cationic monomer separating units. Such polymers are described in the CTFA Cosmetic I ngredient Directory (CTFA Cosmetic Ingredients Directory), 3rd edition. The ratio of cationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give a polymer having a cationic charge density in the required range. Suitable cationic conditioning polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having functionalities of cationic amine or quaternary ammonium with water-soluble spacing monomers, such as (meth) acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth) acrylamides, alkyl (meth) acrylate , vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine. The alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C 1 -C 7 alkyl groups, more preferably C 1-3 alkyl groups. Other suitable spacers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol. The cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines, depending on the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general, secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary, are preferred. The vinyl monomers substituted with amine and amines can be polymerized in the amine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization. The cationic conditioning polymers may comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine and / or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and / or compatible spacer monomers. Suitable cationic conditioning polymers include, for example: - copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and 1-vinyl-3-methyl-imidazolium salt (for example, chloride salt), referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic, Toiletry , and Fragrance Association (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-16. This material is commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Corp.

(Parsippany, NJ, US) under the trade name LUVIQUAT (for example, LUVIQUAT FC 370); copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-1 1. This material is commercially available from Gaf Corporation (Wayne, NJ, US) under the trade name GAFQUAT (eg, GAFQUAT 755N); cationic polymers containing diallyl quaternary ammonium including, for example, homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo- and copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, (as described in U.S. Patent 4,009,256); - cationic polyacrylamides (as described in WO95 / 2231 1). Other cationic conditioning polymers that may be used include cationic polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives. Suitably, such cationic polysaccharide polymers have a charge density of 0.1 to 4 meq / g. Polysaccharide cationic polymers suitable for use in compositions of the invention include those of the formula: A-O- [R-N + (R1) (R2) (R3) X "], wherein: A is a residual group of anhydroglucose, such as a cellulose anhydroglucose residue or starch. R is an alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene group or combination thereof. R1, R2 and R3 independently represent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms for each cationic portion (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R1, R2 and R3) is preferably about 20 or less, and X is an anionic counterion. Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, US) in its polymer series Polymer JR (trademark) and LR (trademark), as hydroxyethyl cellulose salts reacted with epoxide substituted with trimethyl ammonium, referred to in US Pat. Industry (CTGFA) as Polyquaternium 10. Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric salts of quaternary ammonium hydroxyethyl cellulose which reacted with epoxide substituted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, US) under the trade name Polymer LM-200.

Other suitable polysaccharide cationic polymers include quaternary nitrogen containing cellulose ethers (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418), and starch and etherified cellulose copolymers (e.g., as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581). A particularly suitable type of polysaccharide cationic polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc in its trademark series JAGUAR). Examples are JAGUAR C 1 3S, which have a low degree of substitution of the cationic groups and high viscosity. JAGUAR C1 5, which has a moderate degree of substitution and a low viscosity, JAGUAR C17 (high degree of substitution, high viscosity), JAGUAR C1 6, which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups as well as cationic groups of quaternary ammonium and JAGUAR 162 which is a guar of high transparency, medium viscosity that has a low degree of substitution. Preferably, the cationic conditioning polymer is selected from cationic cellulose and guar cationic derivatives. Particularly preferred cationic polymers are JAGUAR C1 3S, JAGUAR C1 5, JAGUAR C17, JAGUAR C1 6 and JAGUAR C1 62. The conditioning cationic polymer will generally be present in compositions of the invention at levels from 0.01 to 5, preferably from 0.02 to 1, more preferably from 0.04 to 0.5 percent by weight of the composition.

Rinse Conditioning Compositions An alternative embodiment of the invention is a rinse or rinse conditioner composition. The rinse or rinse hair conditioning compositions according to the invention preferably comprise one or more conditioning surfactants which are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

Surfactant conditioner Suitable conditioning surfactants are selected from cationic surfactants, used alone or as a mixture. Cationic surfactants useful in compositions of the invention contain hydrophilic portions of amino or quaternary ammonium, which are positively charged when dissolved in the aqueous composition of the present invention. Examples of suitable cationic surfactants are those corresponding to the general formula: [N (R1) (R2) (R3) (R4)] + (X) " wherein R1: R2, R3 and R4 are independently selected from (a) an aliphatic group of from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, alkylalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion, such as those selected from halogen radicals, (e.g., chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulfate and alkyl sulfate. The aliphatic groups may contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether bonds and other such groups as amino groups. Longer chain aliphatic groups, for example, those of about 1 2 carbons or more, can be saturated or unsaturated. Preferred cationic surfactants for conditioning compositions of the present invention are the so-called monoalkyl quaternary ammonium compounds, in which Ri has an alkyl chain length from C 1 6 to C 22 and R 2, R 3 and R have 2 or less carbon atoms. carbon. Other preferred cationic surfactants are the so-called dialkyl quaternary ammonium compounds, in which R 1 and R 2 independently have an alkyl chain length from C 16 to C 22 and R 3 and R 4 have 2 or fewer carbon atoms. Examples of suitable cationic surfactants include quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular quaternary trimethyl compounds.

Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC), cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, sebotrylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2 oleylammonium chloride and salts thereof, where the chloride is replaced by halogen (eg, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate , glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulfate or alkyl sulfate. Additional suitable cationic surfactants include those materials having the CTFA designations Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-1. Any mixtures of the above materials may also be suitable. Cationic quaternary ammonium surfactants particularly useful for use in hair conditioners of the invention are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, commercially available, for example as GENAMI N CTAC, eg Hoechst Celanese and Arquad 16/29 provided by Akzo Nobel, and behenyltrimethylammonium chloride ( BTAC) such as Genamin KDM-P provided by Clariant. Another suitable cationic conditioning surfactant is a dialkoylalkyl dimethylammonium halide. An example of such a compound has the designation CTFA dipalmitoethyldimethylammonium chloride. Additional suitable cationic systems are primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amines used in combination with an acid to provide the cationic species. Alkyl groups of such amine preferably have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and can be substituted or unsubstituted. Particularly useful amido substituted tertiary fatty amines are in particular tertiary amines having an alkyl or alkenyl chain of C12 to C22. Such amines, useful herein, include estea ra m ido propildim ethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, estearamidoeti ID ethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, itamidopropildimetilamina palm, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoetildietilamina, methylamine palmitamidoetildi, behenamidopropildimeti lamina, behenamidopropildieti lamina, behenamidoetildietilamina, behenamidoetildimetilamina, araquidamidopropildimeti lamina, to raq u idam ido propildiet lamina, araquidamidoetildietilamina, araquidamidoetildimetilamina, diethylaminoethylstearamide. Also useful are dimethyl stearamine, dimethyloxyamine, soyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-sebopropane diamine, ethoxylated stearylamine (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide), dihydroxyethyl aterylamine and arachidyl behenylamine. As previously stated, these amines are normally used in combination with an acid to provide the cationic species. The preferred acid useful herein includes L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, L-glutamic hydrochloride and mixtures thereof; more preferably L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid. Cationic amine surfactants included among those useful in the present invention are described in US Patent 4,275,055 for Nachtigal, et al. , issued on June 23, 1981. The molar ratio of protonatable amines for H + from the acid is preferably from about 1: 0.3 to 1: 1 .2, and more preferably from about 1: 0.5 to about 1: 1 .1. In the conditioners of the invention, the level of cationic surfactant is preferably from 0.01 to 1.0, more preferably 0.05 to 5, most preferably 0. 1 to 4 percent by weight of the total composition.

Fatty materials The conditioning compositions of the invention preferably additionally comprise fatty materials. It is believed that the combined use of fatty materials and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is especially advantageous, because it leads to the formation of a liquid crystal or structured lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed. By "fatty material" is meant a fatty alcohol, an alkoxylated fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a mixture thereof. Preferably, the alkyl chain of the fatty material is completely saturated. Representative fatty materials comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 6 to 22. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous as they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of compositions of the invention. Alkoxylated fatty alcohols (eg ethoxylated or propoxylated) having from about 1 2 to about 1 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain can be used in place of, or in addition to, the fatty alcohols themselves. Suitable examples include ethylene glycol cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene (4) cetyl ether and mixtures thereof. The level of fatty material in conditioners of the invention is conveniently from 0.01 to 1.5, preferably from 0.1 to 1.0 and more preferably from 0.5 to 4 percent by weight of the total composition. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol is conveniently from 10: 1 to 1: 10, preferably from 4: 1 to 1: 8, optimally from 1: 1 to 1: 7, for example 1: 3.

Suspension Agents Optionally, the compositions according to the invention may additionally comprise from 0.1 to 10 percent by weight, preferably from 0.6% to 6%, of a suspending agent. Suitable suspending agents are selected from polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of acrylic acid with a hydrophobic monomer, copolymers of carboxylic acid-containing monomers and acrylic esters, cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylate esters, heteropolysaccharide gums and crystalline long chain acyl derivatives. The long chain acyl derivative is desirably selected from ethylene glycol stearate, fatty acid alkanolamides having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. Ethylene glycol distearate and polyethylene glycol 3 distearate are preferred long chain acyl derivatives. Polyacrylic acid is commercially available as Carbopol 420, Carbopol 488 or Carbopol 493. Acrylic acid polymers crosslinked with a polyfunctional agent can also be used, they are commercially available as Carbopol 91 0, Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 941 and Carbopol 980 An example of a suitable copolymer of a carboxylic acid containing a monomer and esters of acrylic acid is Carbopol 1 342. All Carbopol (trademark) materials are available from Goodrich. Suitable cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid and acrylic esters are Pemulen TR1 or Pemulen TR2. A suitable heteropolysaccharide gum is xanthan gum, for example, that available as Kelzan mu. However, if the average diameter of the particles of the beeswax and the silicone polymer is less than 10 microns, it is preferred if the composition is free of suspending agent, by which is meant that the compositions of the invention comprise less than 0.01% by weight of suspending agent. This is because suspension agents can be deposited on the hair, leading to a coated sensation for some users.

Other ingredients The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain other ingredients suitable for use in hair cleansing and conditioning compositions. Other water-insoluble, hydrophobic conditioning oils may be included in addition to those of the invention. The compositions of the present invention may also contain auxiliaries suitable for hair care. In general, such ingredients are included individually at a level of up to 2 weight percent of the total composition. Among the appropriate hair care aides, you will find natural nutrients for the hair root, such as amino acids and sugars. Examples of suitable amino acids include arginine, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, serine and valine and / or precursors and derivatives of the same. The amino acids can be added alone, in mixtures, or in the form of peptides, for example, di- and tripeptides. The amino acids can also be added in the form of a protein hydrolyzate, such as collagen hydrolyzate or keratin. The suitable sugars are glucose, dextrose and fructose. These can be added alone or in the form of, for example, fruit extracts. A particularly preferred combination of natural nutrients for the hair root for inclusion in compositions of the invention is isoleucine and glucose. A particularly preferred amino acid nutrient is arginine. Another suitable auxiliary is glycolic acid.

Method of use The compositions of the invention are intended primarily for topical application to the hair and / or scalp of a human subject in the rinsing or leaving compositions. The compositions are used to provide smoothing, reduced volume and / or hair style fluffiness after the hair is dried. In order to achieve the benefits it is not necessary to dry the hair using a hot air hair dryer, and it is preferred if the hair is allowed to dry naturally after toweling and brushing. The invention will be illustrated by the following non-limiting Examples. The Examples of the invention are illustrated by a number, the Comparative Examples are illustrated by a letter.

Examples Measurement of average radial separation: The measurement of average radial separation is linked to the volume of the hair, which is related to the manageability of the hair. In this way, a low average radial separation measurement indicates that the hair is easy to handle.

Shampoo treatment: 2g / 25.4 cm (1 0 in) hair glue tips were locked and rinsed under running water. Use 4-5 tail tips per treatment. 0.2 ml of shampoo was placed along the length of the tail tip and stirred for 30 seconds, followed by a 30 second rinse. Again, 0.2 ml of shampoo was placed along the length of the tail tip and stirred for 30 seconds, followed by a 1 minute rinse. The tail tips were brushed while they were suspended vertically from a stand with clamp, then rinsed with a water bottle to pull all the fibers together and allowed to dry naturally during the night.

Laser measurements: Each tail tip was suspended vertically from a position with clamp and a Heliutn-Neon laser of 2 mW, = = 632.8 nm shone perpendicular to the tail tip without touching, approximately 5.08 cm (2 in) from the bottom of the tail tip and the illuminated image was recorded on an optical disc using a 35 mm camera. The level of discrimination was set for each image using a macro, (ie, the threshold value for a clear image that results in the number of points stored on the disk). The macro "Icalc" was used to calculate the x, y coordinates of each point in the image and to convert this file into a readable text file. Another macro in Excel applied a mathematical transformation in all the coordinates, to convert the coordinates of apparent assumption in relation to the camera to its real position at the tip of the tail. These real coordinates were used to calculate the average radial distribution of all the coordinates away from the calculated center, thus providing an indicator for the volume of the tail tip. The smaller the number, the smaller the volume. The results are dependent on the conditions of measurement and types of hair. Each set of comparative experiments was therefore carried out at the same time with the same type of hair.

Table 1 The% by weight in Table 1 refers to the actual active chemical in the composition and not to the diluted raw material.

Salon tests were performed where 1 to 8 panelists were washed by a stylist trained in the salon as follows: The hair was moistened and parted in the middle. 3 g of shampoo was applied to each side of the head and the hair was washed in the usual manner using hard water of ~ 12 ° French at a temperature of ~ 40 ° C. The hair was rinsed and the process repeated. Then the hair was rubbed with a towel and blown dry by the panelist. During the washing and finishing, the stylist evaluated several attributes of the hair. Example A was compared with Example B in one test and with Example 1 in a second test. The test of Comparative Example B was not completed due to objection of a greasy, coated sensation resulting from the product. For product 1 compared to product A, product 1 was preferred at the 90% level of significance for alignment attributes, less sponginess, ease of handling, smoothness and smoothness. Tambos products A and 1 were considered equivalent for the greasy sensation. Hence, the product according to the invention showed to give improved workability. The average radial separation mm of Example 1 and C was measured as detailed below: Example 1 Example C Radial separation 13.79 1 1 .22 mm average Example 1 had a significantly lower average radial clearance than Example C and thus decreased hair volume.

Examples C and 1 when tested on a sensory panel gave the following results: The above table demonstrates that for the Example of the invention good conditioning is achieved without any detrimental effect to the clean feeling of the hair. fifteen DC1 668 has a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s at 25 ° C. DC 1785 has a viscosity of 1 million mm2 / s at 25 ° C. HMW2220 has a viscosity of 120 million mm2 / s at 25 ° C. The average radial separation of Examples 1, 5 and 6 were as follows: In this way, the formulation with 1.5% by weight of beeswax made the formulation with 0.5% by weight and 3% by weight of beeswax. The high viscosity silicone formulations exceeded Example C having a silicone of lower viscosity.

Claims (9)

CLAIMING IS

1 . An aqueous hair care composition comprising: a) 0.1% or 8% by weight of the total composition of beeswax b) 0.01% or to 1.0% by weight of the total composition of a silicone polymer with a viscosity at 0.01 Hz of at least 80,000 mm2 / s at 25 ° C.

2. An aqueous hair care composition according to claim 1, wherein the viscosity of the silicone at 0.01 Hz is at least 1 million mm2 / s at 25 ° C.

3. An aqueous hair care composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the viscosity of the silicone at 0.01 Hz is at least 1 00 million mm2 / s at 25 ° C.

4. An aqueous hair care composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the level of silicone is from 0.4% to 4% by weight of the total composition.

5. An aqueous hair care composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the level of beeswax is from 0.2% to 5% by weight of the total composition.

6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the beeswax and the silicone polymer are present in the form of particles with an average diameter (D50) of 50 microns or less.

7. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition is a cleaning composition further comprising from 1% to 25% by weight of a cleaning surfactant. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the cleansing surfactant is selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof. 9. A process for preparing the hair care composition described in any of the preceding claims, comprising the step of emulsifying the beeswax before the addition to the composition. 1 0. A process according to claim 9, in which the beeswax is emulsified with a cationic surfactant. eleven . The use of the composition of any of the preceding claims for conditioning hair.