MXPA06009721A - Solid water-in-oil emulsion make-up composition - Google Patents

Abstract

Disclosed is a solid water-in-oil emulsified make-up composition comprising by weight:(a) from about 10%to about 25%of a powder component;the powder component comprising by weight of the powder component from about 50%to about 80%of a spherical powder having an average particle size of from about 0.1µm to about 50µm;the spherical powder comprising by weight of the entire composition:(i) from about 2%to about 20%of a spherical soft focus powder having a Total Luminous Transmittance (Tt) of from about 55 to about 90, a Diffuse Luminous Transmittance (Td) of from about 34 to about 81 and a Haze value {(Td / Tt) x 100} of from about 62 to about 90;and (ii) from about 1%to about 10%of a spherical oil absorbing powder having an oil absorbency of at least about 100m /100g;(b) a volatile silicone oil;(c) a non-volatile oil;(d) a solid wax;(e) a lipophilic surfactant having an HLB of less than about 8;and (f) water.

Description

SOLID COMPOSITION OF MAKEUP IN EMULSION OF WATER IN OIL FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a solid makeup composition of the water-in-oil phase emulsion type. Specifically, the present invention relates to makeup compositions having specific levels of components that provide the benefits of a solid composition and a liquid composition, and also provide an improvement in appearance. The compositions of the present invention are particularly useful for different forms of make-up base.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Make-up base compositions can be applied on the face and other parts of the body to match skin tone and texture and also to hide pores, imperfections, fine lines and the like. A make-up composition can also be applied to moisturize the skin, balance the oil content of the skin and to protect against the adverse effects of sunlight, wind and other environmental factors. Make-up base compositions are generally available in the form of liquid or cream suspensions, emulsions, compact powders or anhydrous oil and wax compositions. Emulsion-type make-up bases in liquid form are suitable for their moisturizing effects, due to their water-soluble or water-soluble skin treatment agents. However, for the consumer these makeup bases in liquid form are more difficult to use and transport. On the other hand, the consumer finds it easier to use solid makeup bases packaged in a compact form; however, this type of makeup base is typically less efficient than liquid make-up bases in terms of hydration and skin coverage. The preparation of solid emulsion makeup compositions, including water-in-oil emulsion, has been proposed. Said solid emulsion makeup bases serve to cover the deficiencies of the makeup bases in liquid form and the conventional solid makeup bases. These make-up bases can be presented in a wide variety of packaging, including powders, and are increasingly popular with consumers. The references which these make-up base compositions disclose include Japanese Patent Publication Nos. A-2-88511, A-3-261707, A-7-267819, A-11-209243; the U.S. patent no. 5,362,482; and the PCT publication WO 01/91704. Recently, consumers have begun to look for make-up-based products that have the so-called "diffuser" effect, primarily products with a natural finish and with adequate coverage characteristics that minimize the appearance of skin deficiencies. This effect is obtained when two parameters are satisfied. First, the contrast between the clear area and the dark area of the skin (such as pores and wrinkles) is minimized by reducing the appearance of deficient areas. Second, the image of the skin becomes diffuse by providing it with a total natural finish. To provide this benefit several of the so-called "diffuser pigments" are incorporated. The incorporation of these pigments in solid emulsion makeup bases without deteriorating other characteristics has been a challenge because the total amount of pigments that can be incorporated in that product form is limited. Based on the foregoing, there is a need for a solid make-up composition in water-in-oil emulsion that gives a better appearance to the skin and at the same time provides good spreading and moisturizing to the skin to make it clearer and with a feeling of freshness. None of the existing industries provide all the advantages and benefits of the present invention.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a solid water-in-oil emulsion makeup composition comprising by weight: (a) From about 10% to about 25% of a pigment component; the pigment component comprises from about 50% to about 80% of a spherical pigment having an average particle size of about 0.1 μm to about 50 μm by weight of the pigment component; the spherical pigment comprises by weight of the total composition: (i) from about 2% to about 20% of a spherical diffusing pigment having a Total Luminous Transmittance (Tt) of about 55 to about 90, a Diffuse Light Transmittance (Td) from about 34 to about 81, and an Opacity value ((Td / Tt) x100) from about 62 to about 90; and (ii) from about 1% to about 10% of an oil absorbing spherical pigment having an oil absorbency of at least about 100 ml / 100 g; (b) a volatile silicone oil; (c) a non-volatile oil; (d) a solid wax (e) a lipophilic surfactant having an HLB less than about 8; and (f) water. By formulating pigments of certain characteristics in an adequate amount and proportion, a solid make-up composition in water-in-oil emulsion that provides a better appearance to the skin, also provides good spreading and moisturizing to the skin and leaves it more clear and with a feeling of freshness. These and other attributes, aspects and advantages of the present invention will be apparent to persons with industry experience from the reading of the present disclosure and the appended claims.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION While the invention concludes with the claims that in particular indicate and claim the invention in detail, it is considered that it will be better understood from the following description. All percentages, parts and proportions are expressed based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise specified. Since they correspond to listed ingredients, all these weights are based on the level of assets and therefore do not include carriers or by-products that can be included in the materials available in the market. All the ingredients, for example, the active ingredients and others that are used in the present, can be classified by categories or described here according to their cosmetic or therapeutic benefits or according to their mechanism of action described. However, it should be understood that the active and other ingredients useful herein may in some cases provide more than one cosmetic and / or therapeutic benefit or may act through more than one mechanism. Therefore, in the present classifications are made for convenience and are not intended to limit an ingredient to the application especially mentioned or the applications listed. PIGMENT COMPONENT The composition of the present invention comprises from about 10% to about 25% by weight of a pigment component. The pigments included in the pigment component herein are typically hydrophobic in nature or are hydrophobically treated. By keeping the level of pigment component low, the entire composition maintains the flexibility to adapt to other components that provide spreading, wetting, a clear skin and a feeling of freshness. The pigment component of the present invention comprises from about 50% to about 80% by weight of the pigment component of a spherical pigment, as detailed below. The species and levels of non-spherical pigments are selected to provide, for example, shade, coverage, protection against UV radiation, good performance of use and stability in the composition. The non-spherical pigments which are useful for the pigment component herein are mineral clay powders such as talc, mica, sericite, silica, magnesium silicate, synthetic fluorflogopite, calcium silicate, aluminum silicate, bentonite and montmorillonite; pearlescent pigments such as alumina, barium sulfate, secondary calcium phosphate, calcium carbonate, titanium oxide, finely divided titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, hydroxyapatite, iron oxide, iron titanate, ultramarine blue, Prussian blue, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt oxide, cobalt titanate, mica coated with titanium oxide; organic powders such as polyester, polyethylene, polystyrene, methyl methacrylate resin, cellulose, nylon-12, nylon-6, styrene-acrylic acid copolymers, polypropylene, vinyl chloride polymer, tetrafluoroethylene polymer, boron nitride, flake guanine of fish, tar dyes in lacquer and natural dyes in lacquer. These pigments can be treated with a hydrophobic treatment agent which includes: silicone such as methicone, dimethicone and perfluoroalkylsilane; fatty material such as stearic acid; metallic soap such as aluminum dimyristate; Hydrogenated tallow aluminum glutamate, hydrogenated lecithin, lauroyl lysine, aluminum salt of perfluoroalkyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof. SPHERICAL PIGMENT In the present, from approximately 50% to approximately 80% of the pigment component is formed by a spherical pigment having an average particle size of from about 0.1 μm to about 50 μm, preferably from about 1 μm to about 30 μm. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that when the composition is applied to the skin, the abundant amount of total spherical pigments herein improves the spreading of the composition on the skin. The spherical pigments herein also comprise from about 2% to about 20% by weight of the total composition of a spherical diffusing pigment, and from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the total composition of a spherical oil-absorbing pigment . A spherical diffusing pigment is a particularly effective pigment to provide the composition with a diffusing effect, such as the natural finish that provides adequate coverage to minimize the appearance of skin deficiencies when the pigment is incorporated in the determined amount. Specifically, the diffusing pigment in the present must comply with two parameters to provide said effect. In the first place, both the Total Luminous Transmittance (Tt) and the Diffuse Luminous Transmittance (Td) of the pigment are relatively high. The diffusing pigments of the present invention have a Total Light Transmittance (Tt) of about 55 to about 90 and a Diffuse Light Transmittance (Td) of about 34 to about 81. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that due to these high values , the spherical diffuser pigment exhibits a high transparency, and thereby provides a total natural finish. Second, the spherical diffusing pigments of the present invention have an Opacity value. { (Td / Tt) x 100.}. relatively high from about 62 to about 90. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that due to that high opacity value, the contrast between the illuminated area of the skin and the dark area of the skin (such as pores and wrinkles) is minimized reduce the appearance of areas with problems. In the present, the use of the diffusing pigment that has this Total Luminous Transmittance (Tt) and this diffuse Luminous Transmittance (Td) high, and this value of Opacity. { (Td / Tt) x 100.}. High is particularly effective for the present composition which contains a relatively low level of the total pigment component. The Total Luminous Transmittance (Tt), the Diffuse Luminous Transmittance (Td) and the opacity value. { (Td / Tt) x 100.}. can be measured and calculated by those experienced in the industry using as reference the "Standard Test Method for Opacity and Light Transmittance of Clear Plastics" of ASTM D 1003-001. While the powders herein are not plastic, the same principles of this specific standard test can be applied. Spherical spreader pigments useful herein include spherical alumina, such as is commercially available under the tradename SA-Alumina Beads, distributed by Miyoshi Kasei Inc., which has a Total Luminous Transmittance (Tt) of 62 -72, a Diffuse Luminous Transmittance (Td) of 45-55 and an Opacity value. { (Td / Tt) x 100.}. of 70-80. A spherical oil-absorbing pigment is a particularly effective pigment for absorbing oil, and can therefore be included in the present composition to absorb excess sebum from the skin. Specifically, the spherical oil-absorbing pigment herein has an oil absorbency of at least about 100 ml / 100 g, preferably at least about 200 ml / 100 g. Oil absorbency is a well-known unit for those experienced in the industry and can be measured with: the "Test method for oil absorbency level", JIS K5101 no. 21. Spherical oil-absorbing pigments useful herein include spherical silica, spherical silicone elastomer and methyl methacrylate copolymer. Commercially available spherical oil-absorbing pigments which are useful in the present invention include spherical silica having an oil absorbency of greater than 200 ml / 100 g distributed under the trade name of SI-SILDEX H-52 by Miyoshi Kasei., Inc., crosslinked vinylimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane polymer having an oil absorbency greater than 200 ml / 100 g distributed under the tradenames of KSP-100 and KSP-101 by ShinEtsu Chemical, hardened polychlorganosiloxane elastomers having an absorbency of oil greater than 100 ml / 100 g distributed under the tradename TREFIL E-506C by Dow Corning and methyl methacrylate copolymer having an oil absorbency greater than 100 ml / 100 g distributed under the tradename of SA-GMP-0820 by GANZ Chemical and surface treated by Miyoshi Kasei, Inc. Spherical pigments other than diffuser pigments and oil absorbing pigments can also be used. Non-limiting examples of materials useful in the manufacture of spherical powders are: polyacrylates, silicates, sulfates, metal dioxides, carbonates, celluloses, polyalkylenes, vinyl acetates, polystyrenes, polyamides, acrylic acid ethers, silicones and mixtures and complexes thereof . Specifically, the materials useful herein include polyacrylates such as nylon, silicates such as calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, barium silicate, aluminum silicate and silica globules.; metal dioxides such as titanium dioxide and aluminum hydroxide; carbonates such as calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate; celluloses; polyalkylenes such as polyethylene and polypropylene; vinyl acetates; polystyrenes; polyamides; acrylic acid ethers such as acrylic acid methyl ether and acrylic acid ethyl ether; polyvinylpyrrolidones and silicones such as polyorganosiloxesquioxane resin. Commercially available spherical powders very useful herein include nylon-12 under the tradename NYLON POWDER series, distributed by Toray. VOLATILE SILICONE OIL The composition of the present invention comprises a volatile silicone oil. Preferably, the amount of volatile silicone oil is regulated such that the composition comprises from about 20% to about 50% of the volatile silicone oil, and that the total volatile silicone oil and water is greater than about 50% of the total composition. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the species and the levels of volatile silicone oil of the present leave the skin lighter and provide a more refreshing sensation, without necessarily leaving a sensation of dryness in the skin. The volatile silicone oils useful herein are selected from those having a boiling point of about 60 to about 260 ° C, preferably those having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms.

Among the volatile silicone oils useful herein are polyalkylsiloxanes or polyarylsiloxanes with the following structure (I): wherein R93 is independently alkyl or aryl and p is an integer, from about 0 to about 5. Z8 represents groups that block the ends of the silicone chains. Preferably, the. R93 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl; Z8 groups include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and aryloxy. More preferably, the R93 groups and the Z8 groups are methyl groups. Preferred volatile silicone compounds are hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. Volatile silicone compounds commercially available and useful herein include octamethyltrisiloxane under the tradename SH200C-1cs, decamethyltetrasiloxane under the tradename SH200C-1.5cs and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane under the tradename SH200C-2cs, all distributed by Dow Corning. The volatile silicone oils useful herein also include a cyclic silicone compound having the formula: wherein R93 is independently alkyl or aryl and n is an integer from 3 to 7. Preferably, the R93 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl. More preferably, the R93 groups are methyl groups. Preferred volatile silicone compounds are octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and tetradecamethylcyclohexasiloxane. Commercially available volatile silicone compounds which are useful herein include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane under the tradename SH244, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane under the tradenames DC245 and SH245, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane under the tradename DC246, all distributed by Dow Corning. NON-VOLATILE OIL The composition of the present invention comprises a non-volatile oil, preferably with a concentration by weight of the total composition of from about 0.5% to about 10%. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the species and levels of the non-volatile oil herein provide greater smoothness to the skin and alleviate the sensation of dryness in the skin. The non-volatile oils useful herein are, for example, tridecyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate, isocetyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isodecyl isononanoate, cetyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl myristate, socetyl myristate, isotridecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isocetyl pamitate, isodecyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, caprylic / capric acid triglyceride, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, neopentyl glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate) ), diisopropyl dimerate, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, yolk oil egg, sesame oil, apricot oil, wheat germ oil, camellia sasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, oil cottonseed, perilla oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, paulownia china oil, japanese paulownia oil, jojoba oil, germ oil rice, glycerol trioctanate, glycerol triisopalmitate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, isopropyl myristate, glycerol tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, lanolin, liquid lanolin, liquid paraffin, squalene, petrolatum, and mixtures thereof . The oils available on the market include, for example, tridecyl isononanoate with the trade name Crodamol TN distributed by Croda, Hexalan distributed by Nisshin Seiyu and tocopherol acetates distributed by Eisai. Among the non-volatile oils useful herein are also polyalkylsiloxanes or polyarylsiloxanes having the following Structure (I): (I) wherein R93 is alkyl or aryl and p is an integer of about 7 to about 8000. Z8 represents groups that block the ends of the silicone chains. The substituted alkyl or aryl groups in the siloxane chain (R93) or the ends of the siloxane chains Z8 can have any structure as long as the resulting silicone remains fluid at room temperature, is dispersible, non-irritating, toxic or Harmful when applied to the skin, compatible with the other components of the composition and chemically stable during normal conditions of use and storage. Suitable groups Z8 include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and aryloxy. The two R93 groups on the silicon atom may represent the same or different groups. Preferably, the two R93 groups represent the same group. Suitable R93 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl. Preferred silicone compounds are polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane and polymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane, which is also known as dimethicone, is especially preferred. The polyalkylsiloxanes that can be used include, for example, the polydimethylsiloxanes. These silicone compounds are available, for example, from General Electric Company in their Viscasil and SF 96 series, and from Dow Corning in their Dow Corning 200 series. Polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids can also be used and include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are distributed, for example, by General Electric as liquid methylphenyl SF 1075 or by Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.

The non-volatile oils also useful herein are mineral oils of various grades. Mineral oils are liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons that are obtained from petroleum. Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbons include paraffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, isododecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, eicosene, isoeicosene, tridecane, tetradecane, polybutene, polyisobutene and mixtures thereof. SOLID WAX The composition of the present invention comprises a solid wax, preferably with a concentration by weight of the total composition of about 1% to about 5%. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the species and levels of the solid wax in the present provide consistency to the composition and coverage to the skin, without adversely affecting the spreading of the composition when applied to the skin and the clear feeling and fresh that they leave on the skin. The solid waxes useful herein are paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, ozokerite wax, ceresin wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, eicosanil behenate and mixtures thereof. Preferably a mixture of waxes is used. Among the solid waxes available in the market and which are useful in the present invention include: candelilla wax NC-1630, distributed by Cerarica Noda, ozocerite wax SP-1021, distributed by Strahl & Pitsh, and the eicosanil behenate, distributed by Cas Chemical.

LIPOFILIC SURFACTANT The composition of the present invention comprises a lipophilic surfactant, preferably with a total composition by weight of about 1% to about 5% by weight. The lipophilic surfactant herein has an HLB value of less than about 8. The HLB value is a theoretical index value that describes the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a specific compound. It is generally recognized that the HLB index varies from 0 (very hydrophobic) to 40 (very hydrophilic). The HLB value of lipophilic surfactants can be found in the tables and graphs known in the industry or can be calculated by means of the following general equation: HLB = 7 + (hydrophobic group values) + (hydrophilic group values). The HLB and the methods to calculate the HLB of a compound are explained in detail in Surfactant Science Series, Vol. 1: Nonionic Surfactants "(Surfactants Science Series, Vol. 1: Nonionic Surfactants) pp. 606-13, MJ Schick (Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, 1966), not limited by theory , it is believed that the species and levels of the lipophilic surfactant herein provide a stable water-in-oil emulsion considering the other components of the present invention.The lipophilic surfactant may be an ester-type surfactant. present include sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl sesquiisostearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl sesquioleate, diglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl dioleate, diglycerin monoisostearyl ether, diisostearyl ether r of diglycerin and mixtures of these. The ester surfactants available on the market are, for example, the sorbitan isostearate with the trade name Crill 6 distributed by Croda and the sorbitan sesquioleate with the trade name Arlacel 83 distributed by Kao Atrás. The lipophilic surfactant can be a silicone-type surfactant. The silicone surfactants useful herein are (i), (ii) and (iii) as described below and mixtures thereof. (i) Dimethicone copolyols with the formulation: where x is an integer from 5 to 100, and is an integer from 1 to 50, a is zero or greater, b is zero or greater and the average sum of a + b is from 1 to 100. (ii) copolyols of dimethicone with the formulation: wherein R is selected from the group comprising hydrogen, methyl and combinations thereof, m is an integer from 5 to 100, x is independently zero or greater, and is independently zero or greater and the sum of x + y is 1 to 100. (iii) the branched polyether-polydiorganosiloxane emulsifiers of the present with the following formulation: 0- (C-2H40) e (C3H60) f-Fr wherein R1 is an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 20 carbons; R2 is CH3 wherein g is from about 1 to about 5, and h is from about 5 to about 20; R3 is H or an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 5 carbons; e is from about 5 to about 20; f is from about 0 to about 10; a is from about 20 to about 100; b is from about 1 to about 15; c is from about 1 to about 15; and d is from about 1 to about 5. Commercially available silicone-type surfactants are, for example, dimethicone copolyols DC5225C, BY22-012, BY22-008, SH3746M, SH3771M, SH3772M, SH3773M, SH3775M, SH3748, SH3749, and DC5200, all distributed by Dow Corning, and branched polyether-polydiorganosiloxane emulsifiers such as polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone PEG-9, with an HLB of about 4 and a molecular weight of about 6000, under the tradename KF 6028, distributed by ShinEtsu Chemical. In a preferred embodiment the lipophilic surfactant is a mixture of one or more ester type surfactants and one or more silicone type surfactants to provide a stable emulsion for the other essential components of the present invention.

WATER The composition of the present invention comprises water in an amount sufficient to provide a discontinuous aqueous phase, preferably an amount such that the total volatile silicone oil and water is more than about 50% of the total composition. More preferably, the composition herein comprises from about 10% to about 40% water. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the amount of water in the present clears the skin more and provides a more refreshing sensation, without necessarily leaving a dry sensation on the skin. In addition, this amount of water allows the inclusion of optional water-soluble dermoactive agents as described below. Deionized water is typically used in the present invention. Water from natural sources, including mineral cations, can also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of the product. MOISTURIZER The composition of the present invention may also comprise a humectant with a concentration by weight of the total composition of from about 1% to about 15%, preferably from 2% to about 7%. In the present invention the humectants are selected from the group comprising polyhydric alcohols, water-soluble alkoxylated non-ionic polymers, and mixtures thereof. The polyhydric alcohols useful herein include glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, sodium hyaluronate, and mixtures thereof. Commercially available humectants that are included herein are: glycerin distributed by Asahi Denka; propylene glycol distributed under the tradename of LEXOL PG-865/855 by Inolex, 1, 2-PROPYLENEGICOL USP distributed by BASF; 1,3-butylene glycol distributed by Kyowa Hakko Kogyo; dipropylene glycol distributed under the same trade name by BASF; diglycerin distributed under the trade name DIGLYCEROL by Solvay GmbH; sodium hyaluronate distributed under the trade names of ACTIMOIST by Active Organics, series AVIAN SODIUM HYALURONATE by Intergen and HYALURONIC ACID Na by Ichimaru Pharcos. FILM-FORMING POLYMER The compositions of the present invention may comprise a film-forming polymer to impart properties of resistance to use and / or transfer. When these materials are included in the composition, their concentration usually varies between about 0.5% and about 20%, preferably between about 0.5% and about 10% and more preferably between about 1% and about 8%, by weight of the composition. Preferred polymers form a non-stick film that is peeled off with the water used with cleaning agents such as soap.

Examples of suitable polymeric film-forming materials include: a) Sulfopolyester resins such as sulfur polyester resins AQ, such as AQ29D, AQ35S, AQ38D, AQ38S, AQ48S and AQ55S (distributed by Eastman Chemicals); b) polyvinyl acetate / polyvinyl alcohol polymers such as Vinex resins, distributed by Air Products, including Vinex 2034, Vinex 2144 and Vinex 2019; c) acrylic resins, including water-dispersible acrylic resins distributed by National Starch under the trade name "Dermacryl", including Dermacryl LT; d) polyvinyl pyrrolidones (PVP), including Luviskol K17, K30 and K90 (distributed by BASF); water-soluble copolymers of PVP, including PVP / VA S-630 and W-735; and PVP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers such as Copolymer 845 and Copolymer 937, distributed by ISP; as well as other PVP polymers exposed by E.S. Barabas in Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, 2 Ed. (Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, 2nd Ed.) Vol. 17, p. 198-257; e) high molecular weight silicates such as dimethicone and dimethicones substituted with organic groups, especially those with viscosities of more than about 50,000 mPas; f) high molecular weight hydrocarbon polymers with viscosities of more than about 50,000 mPas; g) organosiloxanes, including organosiloxane resins, fluid diorganopolysiloxane polymers and silicone ester waxes. Examples of these polymers and cosmetic compositions containing them are found in PCT publications nos. WO96 / 33689, published on 10/31/96; WO97 / 17058, published on 5/15/97; and in the patent of the USA no. 5,505,937 granted to Castrogiovanni et al. on 4/9/96, all of them incorporated herein by reference. Other film-forming polymers suitable for use herein include the water-insoluble polymeric materials in aqueous emulsion and the water-soluble film-forming polymers described in PCT publication no. WO 98/18431, published on 5/7/98, incorporated herein by reference.

Examples of high molecular weight hydrocarbon polymers with a viscosity greater than about 50,000 mPas include polybutene, polybutene terephthalate, polydecene, polycyclopentadiene, and similar linear and branched, high molecular weight hydrocarbons. Preferred film-forming polymers include organosiloxane resins comprising combinations of R3Si01 / 2"M" units, R2SiO "D" units, RS.O3 / 2"T" units and SiO2"Q" units in relative proportions that comply with the ratio RnSiO (ny2, where n is a value of 1.0 to 1.50 and R is a methyl group.) It is noted that there may also be a small amount, up to 5%, of silanol or of an alkoxy functional group in the structure of the resin as a consequence of the processing The organosiloxane resins must be solid at about 25 ° C and have a molecular weight range of approximately 1000 to 10,000 grams / mol Resin is soluble in organic solvents such as toluene, xylene, isoparaffins and cyclosiloxane or in the volatile carrier, that indicates that it is not sufficiently cross-linked to be insoluble in the volatile carrier.The resins that are particularly preferred are those comprising monofunctional repeating units. or units R3SiO1 / 2"M" and the quadrifunctional units or SiO2"Q", otherwise known as "MQ" resins, as described in U.S. Pat. no. 5,330,747, Krzysik, issued July 19, 1994 and incorporated herein by reference. In the present invention, the relative proportion of the functional units "M" and "Q" is preferably about 0.7 and the value of n is 1.2. Organosiloxane resins of this type are commercially available as Wacker 803 and 804 from Wacker Silicones Corporation of Adrián Michigan, KP545 from Shin-Etsu Chemical and G.E. 1170-002 from General Electric Company. DERMQACTIVE AGENT The compositions of the present invention may comprise a safe and effective amount of a dermoactive agent. As used herein, the term "dermoactive agent" refers to an active ingredient that provides a cosmetic and / or therapeutic effect in the area of skin, hair or nails in which it is applied. Dermoactive agents useful herein include skin lightening agents, anti-acne agents, emollients, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, topical anesthetics, artificial tanning agents, antiseptics, antimicrobial and antifungal actives, skin soothing agents, sunscreen agents, skin barrier repair agents, anti-wrinkle agents, antiatrofoderma assets, lipids, sebum inhibitors, agents perceived by the skin, protease inhibitors, skin tightening agents, anti-spoilage agents, hair growth inhibitors, enzymatic peeling enhancers , anti-glycation agents, and mixtures of these. When at least one dermoactive agent is included in the composition herein, it is included at a concentration of from about 0.001% to about 30% and preferably from about 0.001% to about 10%. The type and amount of dermoactive agents are selected so that the inclusion of a specific agent does not affect the stability of the composition. For example, the hydrophilic agents can be incorporated in an amount that is soluble in the aqueous phase, while the lipophilic agents can be incorporated in an amount soluble in the oil phase. Skin lightening agents useful herein refer to active ingredients that improve hyperpigmentation as compared to pretreatment. Skin lightening agents useful herein include the compounds of ascorbic acid, compounds of vitamin B3, azelaic acid, butyl hydroxyanisole, gallic acid and its derivatives, glycyrrhizinic acid, hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, blackberry extract, and mixtures of these. It is believed that the use of combinations of skin lightening agents is advantageous since these can provide a skin lightening benefit through various mechanisms. The ascorbic acid compounds useful herein include ascorbic acid in the L-form, ascorbic acid salt, and derivatives thereof. The ascorbic acid salts useful herein include the sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, barium, ammonium and protamine salts. The ascorbic acid derivatives useful herein include, for example, ascorbic acid esters, and ascorbic acid ester salts. Especially preferred ascorbic acid compounds include 2-o-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid which is an ester of ascorbic acid and glucose usually known as 2-glucoside of L-ascorbic acid or ascorbyl glucoside, and its metal salts, and salts of L-ascorbic acid phosphate ester such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate, potassium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and calcium ascorbyl phosphate. The commercially available ascorbic acid compounds include magnesium ascorbyl phosphate marketed by Showa Denko, 2-o-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid marketed by Hayashibara and sodium L-ascorbyl phosphate distributed by Roche under the tradename of STAY C. Compounds of vitamin B3 useful herein include for example those having the formula: wherein R is -CONH2 (eg niacinamide) or -CH2OH (eg, nicotinylated alcohol); derivatives of these; and you come out of these. Exemplary derivatives of the above vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide. Preferred vitamin B3 compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate, and more preferably, niacinamide. In a preferred embodiment, the vitamin B3 compound contains a limited amount of the salt form and more preferably, substantially lacks salts of a vitamin B3 compound. Preferably, the vitamin B3 compound comprises less than about 50% of that salt and more preferably, practically it lacks the salt form. The vitamin B3 compounds commercially available which are especially useful herein include the USP niacinamide marketed by Reilly. Other hydrophobic skin lightening agents useful herein include ascorbic acid derivatives such as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (e.g., VC-IP distributed by Nikko Chemical), ascorbyl palmitate (e.g., distributed by Roche Vitamins), ascorbyl dipalmitate (e.g. NIKKOL CP example distributed by Nikko Chemical); undecylenyl phenylalanine (for example SEPIWHITE MSH distributed by Seppic); octadecenedioic acid (for example ARLATONE DIOIC DCA distributed by Uniquema); Evening primrose extract and pyrus malus fruit extract (apple), and mixtures of these. Other dermoactive agents useful herein include those selected from the group comprising panthenol, tocopheryl nicotinate, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, flavonoids (eg flavanone, chalcone), farnesol, phytantriol, glycolic acid, lactic acid. , 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, cis-retinoic acid, trans-retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl esters (eg retinyl propionate), phytic acid , N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, tocopherol and its esters (eg tocopheryl acetate), azelaic acid, arachidonic acid, tetracycline, ibuprofen, naproxen, ketoprofen, hydrocortisone, acetaminophen, resorcinol, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether, S ^^ '- trichlorocarbanilide, octopirox, lidocaine hydrochloride, clotrimazole, miconazole, ketoconazole, neomycin sulfate, theophylline , and mixtures of these. UV RADIATION ABSORBENT AGENT The compositions of the present invention may comprise a safe and effective amount of a UV absorbing agent. A large variety of conventional UV radiation protection agents such as those described in US Pat. no. 5,087,445, Haffey et al., Issued February 11, 1992; no. 5,073,372, Turner et al., Issued December 17, 1991; and No. 5,073,371, Turner et al., Issued December 17, 1991; and in Segarin, et al., chapter Vlll, pages 189 et seq., of Cosmetics Science and Technology (1972). When a UV absorbing agent is included in the composition herein, its concentration ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%. The UV-absorbing agents useful herein are, for example, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (commercially available as PARSOL MCX), butylmethoxydibenzoyl-rrietan, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid , octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, octocrylene, 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone, homomenthyl salicylate, octyl salicylate , 4,4-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3-benzylidene camphor, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, Eusolex ™ 6300, octocrylene, avobenzone (commercially available as Parsol 1789), and mixtures thereof. ADDITIONAL COMPONENTS The compositions herein may also contain additional components conventionally used in topical application products, for example to provide an aesthetic or functional benefit to the composition or skin, such as perceptible benefits through the senses that relate to the appearance, the smell or sensation imparted, therapeutic benefits, or prophylactic benefits (it should be understood that the necessary materials described above may themselves provide those benefits). The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) describes a wide variety of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the industry and suitable for use in the topical compositions of the present invention. These materials can be dissolved or dispersed in the composition as a function of the relative solubility of the components of the composition. Examples of suitable classes of topical ingredients include: antiadiposis agents, antioxidants, radical scavengers, chelating agents, vitamins and derivatives thereof, abrasives, other oil absorbers, astringents, dyes, essential oils, fragrances, structuring agents, emulsifiers, agents of solubilization, anticaking agents, antifoaming agents, binders, buffering agents, bulking agents, denaturants, pH adjusters, propellants, reducing agents, sequestrants, cosmetic biocides, and preservatives. PREPARATION OF THE COMPOSITION The composition of the present invention can be made by any method known in the industry. A suitable process for making the composition comprises the steps of: 1) Dissolving the volatile silicone oil, the non-volatile oil, the solid wax, the lipophilic surfactant, the pigment slurry dispersed in oil and any other hydrophobic material in liquid form at room temperature in a sealed tank, to form a lipophilic mixture; 2) add the remaining pigments and powders in that lipophilic mixture and disperse with a homogenizer at a temperature of approximately 20-30 ° C; 3) separately from 1) and 2), heat and dissolve the humectant and any other hydrophilic material in water at about 75-80 ° C, and then cool to about 20-30 ° C; 4) add the product of step 3) in the product of step 2) to produce an emulsification; 5) heating and adding to the product of step 4) the solid wax and any hydrophobic material at about 80-85 ° C; Y 6) cooling the finally obtained emulsion to a temperature of about 60-80 ° C. The obtained composition, which remains fluid at said temperature, is placed in an airtight container and allowed to cool to room temperature, for which a cooling unit is usually used. The composition obtained is solid at room temperature and, therefore, can be poured into said container and allowed to solidify. The hermetic container is usually a compact.

EXAMPLES The following examples describe and demonstrate the preferred embodiments that are within the scope of the present invention. The examples are provided for illustrative purposes only and should not be construed as limiting the present invention since many variations thereof are possible without deviating from its spirit and scope.

EXAMPLES 1-6 The following compositions are made by the process described herein: Definitions of components * 1 Cyclomethicone: SH245 distributed by Dow Corning * 2 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl dihydone PEG-9: KF-6028 distributed by Shinetsu Silicone * 3 Dimethicone and dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer: KSG-16 distributed by Shinetsu Silicone * 4 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and BHT: PARSOL MCX distributed by Roche * 5 Tocopheryl acetate: DL-α-tocopheryl acetate distributed by Eisai * 6 Isotridecyl isononanoate: Crodamol TN distributed by Croda. * 7 Sorbitan monoisostearate: Crill 6 distributed by Croda * 8 Iron oxide and cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone and hydrogenated disodium glutamate: SA / NAI-Y-10 / D5 (70%), SA / NAI-R-10 / D5 (65%) and SA / NAI-B-10 / D5 (75%) distributed by Miyoshi Kasei * 9 Titanium dioxide and methicone: SI FTL-300 distributed by Miyoshi Kasei * 10 Titanium dioxide and methicone: SI Titanium Díoxide IS distributed by Miyoshi Kasei * 11 Alumina and dimethicone: SA-Alumina Beads that has a Total Luminous Transmittance (Tt) of 62-72, a Transmittance Luminous Diffuse (Td) of 45-55 and an Opacity value. { (Td / Tt) x 100.}. of 70-80 distributed by Miyoshi Kasei * 12 Silica and methicone: SI-SILDEX H-52 distributed by Asahi Glass Company Co., Ltd. and surface treated by Miyoshi Kasei, with an oil absorbency of more than 200 ml / 100 g * 13 Vinicidimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosslinked polymer: KSP-100 having an oil absorbency of more than 200 ml / 100 g distributed by Shinetsu Silicone * 14 Alumina and titanium dioxide and methicone: Sl- LTSG30AFLAKEH (5%) LHC distributed by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd. and surface treated by Miyoshi Kasei * 15 Titanium dioxide and dimethicone and aluminum hydroxide and stearic acid: SAST-UFTR-Z distributed by Miyoshi Kasei * 16 Mica and zinc oxide and methicone and hydroxyapatite: SI- PLV-20 distributed by Miyoshi Kasei * 17 Mica and methicone: SI Mica distributed by Miyoshi Kasei * 18 Polyvinylpyrrolidone: PVP K-30 distributed by BASF * 19 Niacinamide: Niacinamide distributed by Reilly Industries Inc. * 20 Panthenol: DL-Panthenol distributed by Alps Pharmaceutical Ind. * 21 Glycerin: Glycerin USP distributed by Asahi Denka. * 22 Butylene glycol: 1, 3-Butylene Glycol distributed by Kyowa Hakko Kogyo * 23 Candelilla wax: Candelilla wax NC-1630 distributed by Cerarica Noda * 24 Ceresin: Ozokerite wax SP-1021 distributed by Strahl & Pitsh Method of preparation The compositions of Examples 1-6 are prepared in the following manner. 1) The component numbers from 1 to 8 are mixed with a suitable mixer until a homogeneous consistency is obtained to form a lipophilic mixture. 2) The component numbers from 9 to 17 are mixed with a suitable mixer until a homogeneous consistency is obtained to form a powder mixture. The powder mixture is sprayed with a spray and added into the lipophilic mixture with a suitable mixer until a homogeneous mixture is achieved. 3) The components numbers 18 to 23 are dissolved with a suitable mixer, and then they are added in the product of step 2) to perform the emulsification at room temperature with a homogenizer. 4) The components number 24 and 25 are added in the product of stage 3) and heated to dissolve them at 85 ° C in a sealed tank. 5) The product obtained is placed in an airtight container and allowed to cool to room temperature using a cooling unit. These embodiments represented by the above examples have many advantages when applied to the skin as make-up base products. For example they can provide the skin with a better natural finish without compromising the adequate coverage of the skin and also provide the skin with better spreading and wetting and leave it clear and with a refreshing feeling. All documents cited in the Detailed Description of the Invention are incorporated, in the pertinent part, as reference herein. The mention of any document should not be construed as an admission that it constitutes a prior industry with respect to this invention. While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It has been intended, therefore, to cover in the appended claims all changes and modifications that are within the scope of the invention.

Claims (10)

NOVELTY OF THE INVENTION CLAIMS

1. A solid makeup composition in water-in-oil emulsion; the composition comprises, by weight: (a) from about 10% to about 25% of a powder component; the powder component comprises by weight, from about 50% to about 80%, of a spherical powder having an average particle size of about 0.1 μm to about 50 μm; the spherical powder comprises by weight of the total composition: (i) from about 2% to about 20% of a spherical powder diffuser having a Total Luminous Transmittance (Tt) of about 55 to about 90, a Diffuse Light Transmittance (Td) from about 34 to about 81 and an Opacity value. { (Td / Tt) x 100.}. from about 62 to about 90; and (i) from about 1% to about 10% of an oil absorbing spherical pigment having an oil absorbency of at least about 100 ml / 100 g; (b) a volatile silicone oil; (c) a non-volatile oil; (d) a solid wax; (e) a lipophilic surfactant having an HLB less than about 8; and (f) water.

2. The solid makeup composition in water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, further characterized in that the spherical diffusing powder comprises spherical alumina.

3. The solid makeup composition in water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, further characterized in that the spherical oil-absorbing powder comprises spherical silica.

4. The solid makeup composition in water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, further characterized in that the spherical oil-absorbing powder comprises spherical silicone elastomer.

5. The solid makeup composition in water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, further characterized in that the oil absorbency of the spherical oil-absorbing powder is at least about 200 ml / 100 g.

6. The solid makeup composition in water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, further characterized in that the spherical powder has an average particle size of about 1 μm to about 30 μm. The solid make-up composition in water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, further characterized in that the lipophilic surfactant comprises an ester-type surfactant and a silicone-type surfactant. 8. The solid makeup composition in water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, further characterized in that it also comprises from about 1% to about 15% of a humectant. 9. The solid makeup composition in water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, further characterized in that it also comprises a film-forming polymer. The solid make-up composition in water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 1, further characterized in that it comprises, by weight: (b) from about 20% to about 50% of the volatile silica oil; (c) from about 0.5% to about 10% of the non-volatile oil; (d) from about 1% to about 5% of the solid wax; (e) from about 1% to about 5% of the lipophilic surfactant; and (f) water in an amount such that the total volatile silicone oil and water is at least about 50%.