MXPA06009719A - Make-up composition - Google Patents

Abstract

Disclosed is a make-up composition comprising by weight:from about 1%to about 20%of a sebum solidifying powder comprising a base substance having a hydroxyapatite coated on the base substance, and a zinc oxide fixed to the coating layer of the hydroxyapatite, wherein the zinc oxide is from about 15%to about 25%by weight of the sebum solidifying powder;from about 1%to about 10%of an inorganic oil absorbing powder having an oil absorbency of at least about 200ml/100g wherein the weight ratio of the sebum solidifying powder to the inorganic oil absorbing powder is from about 1:1.5 to about 20:1;and a suitable carrier.

Description

MAKEUP COMPOSITION FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a makeup composition comprising a tallow solidifying powder and an inorganic oil absorbing powder for improving the control of sebum. The compositions of the present invention are particularly useful for different forms of make-up base.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Make-up base compositions can be applied to the face and other parts of the body to match skin tone and texture and also to hide pores, imperfections, fine lines and the like. A make-up composition can also be applied to moisturize the skin, balance the oil content of the skin and to protect against the adverse effects of sunlight, wind and other environmental factors. Make-up base compositions are generally available in the form of liquid or cream suspensions, emulsions, compact powders or anhydrous oil and wax compositions. Emulsion type makeup bases in liquid form are suitable for their moisturizing effects, due to their aqueous or soluble skin treatment agents in water Make-up base compositions in solid form, including water-in-oil emulsion, are also suitable. Said solid emulsion makeup bases serve to cover the deficiencies of the makeup bases in liquid form and the conventional solid makeup bases. These make-up bases can be presented in a wide variety of packaging, including powders, and are increasingly popular with consumers. The references which these make-up base compositions disclose include Japanese Patent Publication Nos. A-2- 88511, A-3-261707, A-7-267819, A-11-209243; the U.S. patent no. 5,362,482; and the PCT publication WO 01/91704. Recently, consumers have begun looking for makeup foundations that have a sebum control benefit, and that also have hydrating benefits. Powders are known that have the benefit of controlling sebum. Finding a balance between the benefit of sebum control and the moisturizing benefit is still a challenge. In solid or liquid emulsion forms, the incorporation of a significant amount of sebum controlling powders is difficult due to the limited amount of total powders that can be incorporated into the composition. In addition, the decrease of other components can affect the composition's spreading characteristics. In powdered forms, the incorporation of a large quantity of effective sebum controlling powders can be technically possible; however, this can cause a composition to cause an unwanted sensation of dryness and tension in the skin.

Based on the foregoing, it is necessary to develop a make-up composition that provides a greater benefit of sebum control, and at the same time provides good spreading and moisturizing to the skin and leaves it clearer and with a feeling of freshness. None of the existing industries provide all the advantages and benefits of the present invention.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention is directed to a makeup composition comprising, by weight: From about 1% to about 20% of a tallow solidifying powder comprising a base substance having a hydroxyapatite coated on the base substance, and an oxide of zinc fixed to the coating layer of the hydroxyapatite, wherein the zinc oxide is from about 15% to about 25% by weight of the tallow solidifying powder; from about 1% to about 10% of an inorganic oil absorbing powder having an oil absorbency of at least about 200 me / 100 g, wherein the weight ratio between the sebum solidifying powder and the absorbing powder of inorganic oil varies from about 1: 1.5 to about 20: 1; and a suitable carrier.

By formulating powders of certain characteristics in an adequate amount and proportion, a make-up composition that provides a sebum control benefit also provides good spreading and moisturizing to the skin and leaves it clearer and with a feeling of freshness. These and other attributes, aspects and advantages of the present invention will be apparent to those with experience in the industry from reading the present disclosure and the appended claims.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION While the invention concludes with the claims that in particular indicate and claim the invention in detail, it is considered that it will be better understood from the following description. All percentages, parts and proportions are expressed based on the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise specified. Since they correspond to listed ingredients, all these weights are based on the level of assets and therefore do not include carriers or by-products that can be included in the materials available in the market. All the ingredients, for example, the active ingredients and others that are used in the present, can be classified by categories or described here according to their cosmetic or therapeutic benefits or according to their mechanism of described action. However, it should be understood that the active and other ingredients useful herein may in some cases provide more than one cosmetic and / or therapeutic benefit or may act through more than one mechanism. Therefore, in the present classifications are made for convenience and are not intended to limit an ingredient to the application especially mentioned or the applications listed. SEBO SOLIDIFYING POWDER The present composition comprises from about 1% to about 20% of a tallow solidifying powder comprising a base substance having a hydroxyapatite coated on the base substance, and a zinc oxide attached to the coating layer of the substance. hydroxyapatite, wherein the zinc oxide is present from about 5% to about 25% by weight of the tallow solidifying powder. By incorporating it into solid and liquid, water-in-oil emulsion forms, the composition comprises from about 1% to about 15%, preferably from about 2% to about 7%, of a tallow solidifying powder. The sebum solidifying powders useful herein are those which have a shape similar to that of a platelet, and which are coated with zinc oxide of low crystallinity, amorphous zinc oxide, or mixtures thereof. The relationship between zinc oxide and powder is important to provide a sebum solidifying effect. The base substance can be any organic or inorganic substance that is useful for cosmetic use, including those listed below under the heading "Component of dust". The tallow solidifying powder mentioned herein can be suitably manufactured in accordance with the methods set forth in U.S. Pat. no. 2002/0031534 A1, incorporated herein by reference. The surface of the tallow solidifying powders can be treated. The tallow solidifying powders useful herein have the ability to solidify tallow, ie, they are effective to absorb free fatty acid, diglyceride and triglyceride, and to solidify them by forming zinc salts thereof, such that forms a movie within a period of approximately 30 minutes. What's more, the originally glossy sebum changes its appearance and becomes a matte color film. This capacity can be distinguished from other oil-absorbing powders, which are not selective in the type of oil they absorb and do not form a film after absorbing an oil, and thus can leave shiny gels and pastes after absorbing the sebum. The change in appearance gives the user an obvious sign that sebum has been controlled. The solidifying effect of sebum can be measured easily by mixing a certain amount of powder with a certain amount of artificial sebum during a given period, and letting it rest until it has a solidified or matte color. The time it takes the mixture to solidify or change its appearance is recorded. The less time it takes to solidify or change color, the higher the solidifying effect of the powder.

Surprisingly, it has been found that, when combined with the aforementioned inorganic oil absorbing powder, the sebum solidifying effect of the tallow solidifying powder increases. Specifically, the combined use of a certain total weight of the tallow solidifying powder and the inorganic oil absorbing powder increases the solidifying effect of the tallow, as compared to the use of the same total weight of the tallow solidifying powder alone. This is unforeseen, given that it is known that oil absorbing powders do not necessarily contribute to the solidification of sebum. What is also unforeseen is that said increase is more significant in the inorganic oil absorbing powders. Therefore, the present composition provides a greater sebum control benefit despite the fact that the level of sebum controlling powders is relatively low. By keeping the level of sebum controlling powders low, the entire composition maintains the flexibility to adapt to other components that provide basic functions of a makeup composition. This is particularly true for the water-in-oil compositions herein. In water-in-oil compositions, the total amount of powder component is preferably kept low. By keeping the powder component level low, the entire composition maintains the flexibility to adapt to other components that provide spreading, wetting, lighter skin and a fresh feeling. Commercially available spherical oil absorbing powders useful herein include mica coated with hydroxyapatite, % zinc oxide with the trade name PLV-20, and the same powder surface treated with methicone under the trade name SI-PLV-20, both distributed by Miyoshi Kasei, Inc. INORGANIC OIL ABSORBING POWDER The present composition comprises about 1% to about 10%, preferably from 2% to about 7%, of an inorganic oil absorbing powder having an oil absorbency of at least about 200 me / 100 g, whose weight ratio between the solidifying powder of tallow and the inorganic oil absorbing powder varies from about 1: 1.5 to about 20: 1, preferably from about 1: 1 to about 2: 1. The oil absorbency is a unit known to those experienced in the industry and can be measured by the "Test method for the level of oil absorbency", JIS K5101 no. 21. The inorganic absorbent powders useful herein They include silica, silicate salts, carbonate salts, metal oxides, and hydroxyapatite. Both powders with untreated surface and those with treated surface can be used, depending on the compatibility with the rest of the composition. Particularly useful powders herein are spherical silica powders having an average particle size of about 1 μm to about 30 μm. Commercially available inorganic oil absorbing powders useful herein include spherical silica powder with the trade name SILDEX H-52, distributed by Asahi Glass Company Co., Ltd; the same surface treated and with the trade name SI SILDEX H-52, distributed by Miyoshi Kasei, Inc., and the spherical silica powder with the trade name GODD BALL SF-16C, distributed by Suzuki Yushi Industrial Co. Ltd., all with an oil absorbency of more than 200 me / 100 g. SUITABLE CARRIERS AND COMPOSITION FORMS The combination of tallow soiidifying powder and inorganic oil absorbing powder of the present invention can be incorporated into various makeup compositions to provide control of sebum and further minimize the effect on other benefits of the composition. For example, the combination can be formulated in a powder carrier to make a loose powder form of the product. Other forms of the composition and their respective suitable carriers are those mentioned below. Water-in-oil emulsified makeup composition in solid form comprising, by weight: (a) From about 10% to about 25% of a powder component; the powder component comprises, by weight of the entire composition: (i) from about 1% to about 15% of the tallow solidifying powder; and (ii) from about 1% to about 10% of the inorganic oil absorbing powder; (b) from about 20% to about 50% of a volatile silicone oil; (c) from about 0.5% to about 10% of a non-volatile oil; (d) from about 1% to about 5% of a lipophilic surfactant with an HLB of less than about 8; (e) water in an amount such that the total volatile silicone oil and water is at least about 50%; and (f) from about 1% to about 5% of a solid wax. The water-in-oil emulsified makeup composition in liquid form comprises, by weight: (a) from about 10% to about 25% of a powder component; the powder component comprises, by weight of the entire composition: (i) from about 1% to about 15% of the tallow solidifying powder; (ii) from about 1% to about 10% of the inorganic oil absorbing powder; (b) from about 20% to about 50% of a volatile silicone oil; (c) from about 0.5% to about 20% of a non-volatile oil; (d) from about 0.1% to about 10% of a lipophilic surfactant with an HLB less than about 8; (e) from about 10% to about 60% water; and (f) from 0% to about 5% optional thickener. Composition in powder form comprising, by weight: (a) From about 75% to about 97% of a powder component; the powder component comprises, by weight of the entire composition: (i) from about 1% to about 20% of the tallow solidifying powder; and (ii) from about 1% to about 10% of the inorganic oil absorbing powder; (b) from about 3% to about 25% of a binder selected from the group comprising volatile silicone oil, non-volatile oil, thickener, lipophilic surfactant, water, humectant, and mixtures thereof. DUST COMPONENT The composition of the present invention comprises a powder component. The powders included in the powder component in the present are typically hydrophobic by nature or hydrophobically treated. Species and powder levels other than those described above are selected to provide, for example, shade, coverage, protection against UV radiation, good performance of use and stability in the composition. Depending on the needs of the product, colorless powders can be selected to provide a colorless makeup base and / or make-up base composition. Other powders useful for the powder component herein are mineral clay powders such as talc, mica, sericite, silica, magnesium silicate, synthetic fluorflogopite, calcium silicate, aluminum silicate, bentonite and montmorillonite; pearl powders such as alumina, barium sulfate, secondary calcium phosphate, calcium carbonate, titanium oxide, finely divided titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, hydroxyapatite, oxide of iron, iron titanate, ultramarine blue, Prussian blue, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt oxide, cobalt titanate, mica coated with titanium oxide; organic powders such as polyester, polyethylene, polystyrene, methyl methacrylate resin, cellulose, 12-nylon, 6-nylon, styrene-acrylic acid copolymers, polypropylene, vinyl chloride polymer, the tetrafluoroethylene polymer, the boron nitride, the fish scale guanine, the tar dyes in lacquer and the natural coloring dyes in lacquer. Said powders can be treated with a hydrophobic treatment agent, including: silicone such as methicone, dimethicone and perfluoroalkylsilane; fatty material such as stearic acid; metal soap such as aluminum dimyristate; aluminum hydrogenated tallow glutamate, hydrogenated lecithin, lauroyl lysine, aluminum salt of perfluoroalkyl phosphate and mixtures thereof. Silky focus powders are also useful herein. Silky focus powders are those that are particularly effective in providing a silky focus effect to the composition, such as the natural finish that has good coverage to minimize the appearance of skin problems by incorporating them in the defined amount. Specifically, the silky focus powder in the present must comply with the two parameters to provide said effect. First, both the Total Light Transmittance (Tt) and the Diffuse Light Transmittance (Td) of the dust are relatively high. The spherical silky focus powders of the present invention have a Total Light Transmittance (Tt) ranging from about 55 to about 90, and a Diffuse Light Transmittance (Td) ranging from about 34 to about 81. These powders are usually spherical. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that having such high values the spherical silky focus powder exhibits a high transparency and thus provides a general natural finish. Second, the spherical silky focus powders of the present invention have a relatively high opacity value. { (Td / Tt) x 100.}. from about 62 to about 90. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that, by having such a high opacity value, the contrast between the illuminated area of the skin and the shaded area of the skin (such as pores and wrinkles) is minimized reduce the appearance of the areas with problems. The use of the silky focus powder in the present with this Total Luminous Transmittance (Tt) and this diffuse Luminous Transmittance (Td) high, and this opacity value. { (Td / Tt) x 100.}. high, is particularly effective for the present composition, which contains a relatively low level of total powder component. These powders are usually spherical. The Total Luminous Transmittance (Tt), the Diffuse Luminous Transmittance (Td) and the opacity value. { (Td / Tt) x 100.}. can be measured and calculated by those experienced in the industry using as reference the "Standard test method for opacity and light transmittance of transparent plastics" of ASTM D 1003-001. While the powders herein are not plastic, the same principles of this specific standard test can be applied. The spherical silky focus powders useful herein include spherical alumina such as that commercially available under the name SA-Alumina Beads, distributed by Miyoshi Kasei Inc., which has a Luminqsa Total Transmittance (Tt) of 62-72, a Luminous Transmittance Diffuse (Td) of 45-55 and an opacity value. { (Td / Tt) x 100.}. of 70-80. The organic oil absorbing powders are useful herein, such as silicone elastomers and methylmethacrylate copolymers. Commercially available powders useful herein include the crosslinked vinylimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane polymer under the tradenames KSP-100 and KSP-101, distributed by ShinEtsu Chemical; the hardened polyorganosiloxane elastomers, with the name commercial TREFIL E-506C, distributed by Dow Corning; and the methylmethacrylate copolymer with the trade name SA-GMP-0820, distributed by GANZ Chemical Co., Ltd., with surface treated by Miyoshi Kasei, Inc. Spherical powders other than silky-focus powders and absorbing powders can also be used. of oil. There are unlimited examples of materials useful in the manufacture of spherical powders, for example, polyacrylates, silicates, sulfates, metal dioxides, carbonates, celluloses, polyalkylenes, vinyl acetates, polystyrenes, polyamides, Acrylic acid ethers, silicones and mixtures and complexes thereof. Specifically, the materials useful herein include polyacrylates such as nylon; the silicates such as calcium silicate, magnesium silicate, barium silicate, aluminum silicate and silica globules; metal dioxides such as titanium dioxide and aluminum hydroxide; carbonates such as calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate; the celluloses; polyalkylenes such as polyethylene and polypropylene; vinyl acetates; the polystyrenes; the polyamides; the acrylic acid ethers such as the methyl ether of acrylic acid and the ethyl ether of acrylic acid; the polyvinyl pyrrolidones; and silicones such as the polyorganosiloxesquioxane resin. Commercially available spherical powders very useful herein include nylon-12 under the tradename NYLON POWDER series, distributed by Toray.

VOLATILE SILICONE OIL A volatile silicone oil is useful for the present invention. By incorporating it into water-in-oil emulsions, preferably, the amount of volatile silicone oil is controlled such that the composition comprises from about 20% to about 50% volatile silica oil, and the total volatile silicone oil and water is more than about 50% of the entire composition. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the species and the levels of volatile silicone oil of the present leave the skin lighter and provide a more refreshing sensation, without necessarily leaving a sensation of dryness in the skin. Volatile silicone oils can also be used as binders for the powder forms of the present composition. The volatile silicone oils useful herein are selected from those having a boiling point of about 60 to about 260 ° C, preferably those having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms. Among the volatile silicone oils useful herein are polyalkylsiloxanes or polyarylsiloxanes with the following structure (I): (l) wherein R93 is independently alkyl or aryl and p is an integer, from about 0 to about 5. Z8 represents groups that block the ends of the silicone chains. Preferably, the R93 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl; Z8 groups include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and aryloxy. More preferably, the R93 groups and the Z8 groups are methyl groups. Preferred volatile silicone compounds are hexamethyldisiioxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. Volatile silicone compounds commercially available and useful herein include octamethyltrisiloxane under the tradename SH200C-1cs, decamethyltetrasiloxane under the tradename SH200C-1.5cs and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane under the tradename SH200C-2cs, all distributed by Dow Corning. The volatile silicone oils useful herein also include a cyclic silicone compound having the formula: wherein R93 is independently alkyl or aryl and n is an integer from 3 to 7. Preferably, the R93 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl. More preferably, the R93 groups are methyl groups. The preferred volatile silicone compounds are octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and tetradecamethylcyclohexasiloxane. Volatile silicone compounds commercially available and useful in the present invention include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane under the tradename SH244, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane under the tradenames DC245 and SH245, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane under the tradename DC246, all available from Dow Corning. NON-VOLATILE OIL A non-volatile oil is useful for the composition of the present invention. By incorporating it into water-in-oil emulsions, preferably, the amount varies from about 0.5% to about 20%. When the emulsion is manufactured in the solid form, preferably, the amount varies from about 0.5% to about 10%. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the species and levels of the non-volatile oil herein improve the uniformity of the skin and also alleviate the dryness sensation of the skin. Non-volatile oils can also be used as binders for the powder forms of the present composition. The non-volatile oils useful herein are, for example, tridecyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate, isocetyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isodecyl isononanoate, cetyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl myristate, isocetyl myristate, isotridecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, isodecyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, palmitate octyl, caprylic / capric acid triglyceride, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, neopentyl glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), diisopropyl dimerate, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, walnut oil macadamia, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, apricot oil, wheat germ oil, camellia sasanqua oil, castor oil, oil flaxseed, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, goat oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, paulownia china oil, Japanese paulownia oil, jojoba oil, rice germ oil, glycerol trioctanate, glycerol triisopalmitate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, isopropyl myristate, glycerol tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, lanolin, liquid lanolin, paraffin liquid, squalene, petrolatum, and mixtures thereof. The oils available on the market include, for example, tridecyl isononanoate with the trade name Crodamol TN distributed by Croda, Hexalan distributed by Nisshin Seiyu and tocopherol acetates distributed by Eisai. Among the non-volatile oils useful herein are also polyalkylsiloxanes or polyarylsiloxanes having the following Structure (I): (I) wherein R93 is alkyl or aryl and p is an integer of about 7 to about 80Q0. Z8 represents groups that block the ends of the silicone chains. The substituted alkyl or aryl groups in the siloxane chain (R93) or the ends of the siloxane chains Z8 can have any structure as long as the resulting silicone remains fluid at room temperature, is dispersible, non-irritating, toxic or Harmful when applied to the skin, compatible with the other components of the composition and chemically stable during normal conditions of use and storage. Suitable Z8 groups include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and aryloxy. The two R93 groups on the silicon atom may represent the same or different groups. Preferably, the two R93 groups represent the same group. Suitable R93 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl. Preferred silicone compounds are polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane and polymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane, which is also known as dimethicone, is especially preferred. Polyalkylsiloxanes that may be used include, for example, the polydimethylsiloxanes. These silicone compounds are available, for example, from General Electric Company in their Viscasil and SF 96 series, and from Dow Corning in their Dow Corning 200 series. Polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids can also be used and include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are distributed, for example, by General Electric as liquid methylphenyl SF 1075 or by Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.

The non-volatile oils also useful herein are mineral oils of various grades. Mineral oils are liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons that are obtained from petroleum. Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbons include paraffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, isododecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, eicosene, isoeicosene, tridecane, tetradecane, polybutene, polyisobutene and mixtures thereof. THICKEN A thickener is useful for the present invention. Thickeners can be used to add viscosity to the compositions in liquid form of water in oil in order to solidify the compositions in solid form of water in oil and as a binder for the compositions in powder form of the present invention. When used in liquid forms, the thickener is maintained in about 5% of the entire composition. The water-in-oil solid emulsion forms comprise thickeners, usually solid wax, for the purpose of solidifying the composition. The thickeners useful herein are selected from the group comprising fatty compounds, solid wax, gelling agents, inorganic thickeners, silicone elastomers and mixtures thereof. The amount and type of thickeners are selected in accordance with the viscosity and the characteristics desired for the product. Fatty Compounds The fatty compounds useful herein include stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmitic acid, polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol or cetyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. Preferred fatty compounds are selected from stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol with an average of about 2 ethylene oxide units (steareth-2), polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol with an average of approximately 2 units of ethylene oxide and mixtures of these. Solid wax The composition of the present invention may comprise a solid wax. The water-in-oil solid emulsion compositions of the present invention preferably comprise, by weight of the entire composition, from about 1% to about 5% solid wax. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the species and levels of solid wax in the present provide consistency to the composition and coverage of the skin, while not contributing negatively to the spreadability during application on the skin, leave the skin clearer and provide a feeling of freshness. The solid waxes useful herein are paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, ozocerite wax, ceresin wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, eicosanil behenate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably a mixture of waxes is used.

Among the commercially available solid waxes which are useful in the present invention are: candelilla wax NC-1630, distributed by Cerarica Noda, ozocerite wax SP-1021, distributed by Strahl & Pitsh, and the eicosanil behenate, distributed by Cas Chemical. Gelling Agents The gelling agents useful as thickeners of the present invention include esters and amides of fatty acid gelling agents, hydroxy acids, hydroxy fatty acids, other amide gelling agents, and crystalline gelling agents. The N-acyl amino acid amides useful herein are prepared from glutamic acid, lysine, glutamine, aspartic acid and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are the n-acyl amino acid glutamic amides corresponding to the following formula: R2-NH-CO- (CH2) 2-CH- (NH-CO-R1) -CO-NH-R2 wherein R1 is an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and R2 is an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having from about 4 to about 12 carbon atoms. Of which, some non-limiting examples include dibutyl amide of n-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid, n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid diheptyl amide, and mixtures thereof. The most preferred is the dibutyl amide of n-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid, also called dibutyl lauroyl glutamide. East material is commercially available under the trade name Gelling agent GP-1, distributed by Ajinomoto. Other gelling agents suitable for use in the compositions include 12-hydroxystearic acid, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid, amides of 12-hydroxystearic acid, and combinations thereof. Preferred gelling agents include those corresponding to the following formula: R1 -CO- (CH2) 10-CH- (OH) - (CH2) 5-CH3 wherein R1 is R2 or NR2R3; and R2 and R3 are hydrogen, or an alkyl, aryl radical 0 arylalkyl branched in linear or cyclic form, and has from about 1 to about 22 carbon atoms; preferably about 1 to about 18 carbon atoms. R2 and R3 may be the same or different; however, at least one is preferably a hydrogen atom. Among these gelling agents, those selected from the group comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid methyl ester, 2-hydroxystearic acid ethyl ester, 12-hydroxystearic acid stearyl ester, 12-hydroxystearic acid benzyl ester, 12-hydroxystearic acid amide are preferred. -hydroxystearic, 12-hydroxystearic acid isopropylamide, 12-hydroxystearic acid butylamide, 12-hydroxystearic acid benzylamide, 12-hydroxystearic acid phenylamide, 12-hydroxystearic acid t-butylamide, 12-hydroxystearic acid cyclohexylamide, 1-adamantylamide of 12-hydroxystearic acid, 2-adamantylamide of 12-hydroxystearic acid, diisopropylamide of 12- hydroxystearic, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably, 12-hydroxystearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid isopropylamide, and combinations thereof. Especially preferred is 12-hydroxystearic acid. Suitable gelling amines include the disubstituted or branched gelling monoamides, monosubstituted or branched gelling diamines, gelling triamides and combinations thereof, excluding the n-acyl amino acid derivatives selected from the group comprising n-acyl amino acid amides and esters of n-acyl amino acid prepared from glutamic acid, lysine, glutamine, aspartic acid and combinations thereof, which are specifically disclosed in U.S. Pat. no. 5,429,816. The alkylamides or di and tribasic carboxylic acids or anhydrides suitable for use in the composition include alkylamides of citric acid, tricarballylic acid, aconitic acid, nitrilotriacetic acid, succinic acid and itaconic acid such as 1,2,3-propane tributylamide, 2 -hydroxy-1, 2,3-propane tributylamide, 1-propene-1, 2,3-tritylamide, N, N ', N "-tri (acetodecylamide) amine, 2-dodecyl-N, N'-dihexylsuccinamide and Dodecyl-N, N'-dibutylsuccinamide Preferred amides are the alkylamides of dicarboxylic acids such as alkylsuccinic acid diamides, alkenylsuccinic acids, alkylsuccinic anhydrides and alkenylsuccinic anhydrides, and more preferably 2-dodecyl-N, N'-dibutyl succinamide .

Inorganic Thickeners The inorganic thickeners useful herein include hectorite, bentonite, montmorillonite, and bentone clays modified to be compatible with oil. Preferably, the modification is quatemized with an ammonium compound. Preferred inorganic thickeners include hectorite modified with quaternary ammonium. Commercially available oil-expandable clay materials include benzyldimethyl stearyl ammonium hectorite available under the tradename Bentone 38 from Elementis. Silicone elastomers Suitable for use herein are silicone elastomers which may be cross-linked siloxane elastomers, emulsifiers or non-emulsifiers, or mixtures thereof. As used herein, the term "non-emulsifying" defines the cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomers lacking polyoxyalkylene units. As used herein, the term "emulsifier" refers to cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomers having at least one polyoxyalkylene unit (eg, polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene). The non-emulsifying elastomers useful in the present invention are formed by the cross-linking of organohydrogenpolysiloxanes with an alpha, omega-diene. Here, the emulsifying elastomers include polyoxyalkylene modified elastomers obtained by the crosslinking of organohydrogenpolysiloxanes with polyoxyalkylene dienes or organohydrogenpolysiloxanes containing at least one polyether group cross-linked with an alpha, omega-diene. The elastomers of Organopolysiloxane cross-linked emulsifiers can be chosen remarkably from the crosslinked polymers described in US Pat. num. 5,412,004, 5,837,793, and 5,811,487. In addition, an emulsifying elastomer composed of dimethicone polyol (y) dimethicone crosslinked polymer is available from Shin Etsu under the tradename KSG-21. The non-emulsifying elastomers are cross-linked dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone polymers. Several suppliers distribute this type of cross-linked dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone polymers; among others are included Dow Corning (DC 9040 and DC 9041), General Electric (SFE 839), Shin Etsu (KSG-15, 16, 18 [dimethicone / phenyl vinyl dimethicone reticulated polymer]) and Grant Industries (GRANSIL ™ elastomer line). The cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomers useful in the present invention and the processes for making them are described in more detail in the patents of the USA num. 4,970,252, 5,760,116 and 5,654,362. Other crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers useful in the present invention are disclosed in Japanese Patent Application JP 61-18708, assigned to Pola Kasei Kogyo KK. The elastomers which are commercially available and which are preferred for use in the present invention are the blend of silicone elastomer 9040 from Dow Corning, KSG-21 from Shin Etsu, and mixtures thereof. LIPOFILIC SURFACTANT The composition of the present invention may comprise a lipophilic surfactant. Upon incorporation into water-in-oil emulsion compositions of the present invention, the amount included preferably varies from about 0.1% to about 10%. By incorporating it into water-in-oil solid emulsion forms, the amount included preferably ranges from about 1% to about 5%. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the species and levels of the lipophilic surfactant herein provide a stable water-in-oil emulsion, in view of the other components of the present invention. The lipophilic surfactants can also be used as binders for the powder forms of the present composition. The lipophilic surfactant herein has an HLB value of less than about 8. The HLB value is a theoretical index value that describes the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a specific compound. As usual, it is recognized that the HLB index varies from 0 (very hydrophobic) to 40 (very hydrophilic). The HLB value of lipophilic surfactants can be found in the tables and graphs known in the industry or can be calculated by means of the following general equation: HLB = 7 + (hydrophobic group values) + (hydrophilic group values). The HLB and methods for calculating the HLB of a compound are explained in detail in Surfactant Science Series, Vol. 1: Nonionic Surfactants "(Surfactants Science Series, Vol. 1: Nonionic Surfactants) pp. 606-13 , MJ Schick (Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, 1966) .Lipophilic surfactant can be an ester type surfactant.

Among the ester-type surfactants useful herein are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl sesquiisostearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl sesquioleate, diglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl dioleate, diglycerol monoisostearyl ether, diisostearyl diglycerol ether and mixtures thereof. The ester surfactants available on the market are, for example, the sorbitan isostearate with the trade name Crill 6 distributed by Croda and the sorbitan sesquioleate with the trade name Arlacel 83 distributed by Kao Atrás. The lipophilic surfactant can be a silicone-type surfactant. The silicone surfactants useful herein are (i), (i), (iii) and (v) as described below, and mixtures thereof. (i) Dimethicone copolyols with the formulation: (C2H4O) a (C3H6O) í) - H where x is an integer from 5 to 100, and is an integer from 1 to 50, a is zero or greater, b is zero or greater, and the average sum of a + b is from 1 to 100. (i) copolyols of dimethicone with the formulation: wherein R is selected from the group comprising hydrogen, methyl and combinations thereof, m is an integer from 5 to 100, x is independently zero or greater, and is independently zero or greater and the sum of x + y is 1 to 100. (iii) the branched polyether-polydiorganosiloxane emulsifiers of the present with the following formulation: 60) f-R3 wherein R1 is an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 20 carbons; R2 is CH3 wherein g is from about 1 to about 5, and h is from about 5 to about 20; R 3 is H or an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 5 carbons; e is from about 5 to about 20; f is from about 0 to about 10; a is from about 20 to about 100; b is from about 1 to about 15; c is from about 1 to about 15; and d is from about 1 to about 5. (iv) alkyldimethicone copolyols which are copolymer of nonionic polysiloxane with emulsifying capacity, comprising a methylpolysiloxane entity, an alkylmethylpolysiloxane entity and a poly (oxyalkylene) methylpolysiloxane entity, with a HLB from about 4 to about 6, and a molecular weight from about 10,000 to about 20,000, wherein the alkyl group is formed from about 10 to about 22 carbons. The alkyldimethicone copolyols herein are those having the following formulation: wherein Z1 is 0 (C2H40) p (C3H60) qH, p is from 0 to about 50, q is from 0 to about 30, wherein p and q are not 0 at the same time; x is from 1 to about 200, and is from 1 to about 40, and z is from 1 to about 100, and Z2 is an alkyl group having from about 10 to about 22 carbons, preferably from about 16 to about 18 carbons. The commercially available silicone type surfactants are, for example, dimethicone copolyols DC5225C, BY22-012, BY22-008, SH3746M, SH3771M, SH3772M, SH3773M, SH3775M, SH3748, SH3749, and DC5200, all distributed by Dow Corning, and the branched polyether-polydiorganosiloxane emulsifiers such as the polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone PEG-9, with an HLB of about 4 and a molecular weight of about 6000, under the tradename KF 6028, distributed by ShinEtsu Chemical. Preferred alkyl dimethicone copolyols include the copolyol of cetyldimethicone and the copolyol of stearyl dimethicone. An alkyl dimethicone copolyol commercially available and especially preferred herein includes the copolyol of cetyldimethicone, also called methylpolysiloxane copolymer cetylmethylpolysiloxane poly (oxyethylene oxypropylene) methylpolysiloxane having an HLB of about 5 and a molecular weight of about 13,000 available under the trademark ABIL EM90 from Goldschmidt Personal Care. In a preferred embodiment the lipophilic surfactant is a mixture of one or more ester type surfactants and one or more silicone type surfactants to provide a stable emulsion for the other essential components of the present invention. WATER The water-in-oil emulsion compositions of the present invention comprise water in an amount sufficient to provide a discontinuous aqueous phase, preferably an amount such that the total volatile silicone oil and water is more than about 50% all the composition. More preferably, the compositions in solid form of. The present invention comprises from about 10% to about 40% water, and the compositions in liquid form comprise from about 10% to about 60% water. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the amount of water in the present clears the skin more and provides a more refreshing sensation, without necessarily leaving a dry sensation on the skin. In addition, this amount of water allows the inclusion of optional water-soluble dermoactive agents as described to continuation. The water can also be used as a binder for the powder forms of the present composition. Deionized water is typically used in the present invention. Water from natural sources, including mineral cations, can also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of the product. MOISTURIZER The composition of the present invention may also comprise a humectant. Upon incorporation into water-in-oil emulsions, the amount preferably ranges from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 2% to about 7%. The humectants can also be used as a binder for the powder forms of the present composition. In the present invention, the humectants are selected from the group comprising polyhydric alcohols, water-soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers, and mixtures thereof. Polyhydric alcohols useful herein include glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, sodium hyaluronate, and mixtures thereof. The commercially available humectants that are included herein are: glycerin distributed by Asahi Denka; propylene glycol with the trade name LEXOL PG-865/855, distributed by Inolex; 1, 2-PROPYLENE GLYCOL USP, distributed by BASF; 1,3-butylene glycol, distributed by Kyowa Hakko Kogyo; dipropylene glycol with the trade name dipropylene glycol, distributed by BASF; the diglycerin with the name commercial DIGLYCEROL, distributed by Solvay GmbH; sodium hyaluronate with the trade name ACTIMOIST, distributed by Active Organics, the series AVIAN SODIUM HYALURONATE, distributed by Intergen, and HYALURONIC ACID Na, distributed by Ichimaru Pharcos. FILM-FORMING POLYMER The compositions of the present invention may comprise a film-forming polymer to impart properties of resistance to use and / or transfer. When these materials are included in the composition, their concentration generally ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10% and more preferably from about 1% to about 8%, by weight of the composition. Preferred polymers form a non-stick film that is peeled off with the water used with cleaning agents such as soap. Examples of polymeric film-forming materials that are considered suitable include: a) Sulfopolyester resins such as sulfur polyester resins AQ, such as AQ29D, AQ35S, AQ38D, AQ38S, AQ48S and AQ55S (distributed by Eastman Chemicals); b) polyvinyl acetate / polyvinyl alcohol polymers such as Vinex resins, distributed by Air Products, including Vinex 2034, Vinex 2144 and Vinex 2019; c) acrylic resins, including water-dispersible acrylic resins distributed by National Starch under the trade name "Dermacryl", including Dermacryl LT; d) polyvinyl pyrrolidones (PVP), including Luviskol K17, K30 and K90 (distributed by BASF); water-soluble copolymers of PVP, including PVP / VA S-630 and W-735; and PVP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers such as Copolymer 845 and Copolymer 937, distributed by ISP; as well as other PVP polymers exposed by E.S. Barabas in Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, 2 Ed. (Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, 2nd Ed.) Vol. 17, pgs. 198-257; e) high molecular weight silicones such as dimethicone and dimethicones substituted with organic groups, especially those with viscosities of more than about 50,000 mPas; f) high molecular weight hydrocarbon polymers with viscosities of more than about 50,000 mPas; g) organosiloxanes, including organosiloxane resins, fluid diorganopolysiloxane polymers and silicone ester waxes. Examples of these polymers and cosmetic compositions containing them are found in PCT publications nos. W096 / 33689, published on 10/31/96; WO97 / 17058, published on 5/15/97; and in U.S. Pat. no. 5,505,937 granted to Castrogiovanni et al. on 4/9/96, all of them incorporated herein by reference. Other film-forming polymers suitable for use herein include polymeric water-insoluble materials in aqueous emulsion and water-soluble film-forming polymers described in PCT publication no. WO 98/18431, published on 5/7/98, incorporated herein by reference. Examples of high molecular weight hydrocarbon polymers with a viscosity greater than about 50,000 mPas include polybutene, polybutene terephthalate, polydecene, polycyclopentadiene, and similar high molecular weight, linear and branched hydrocarbons. Preferred film-forming polymers include organosiloxane resins comprising combinations of R3S01 / 2"M" units, R2SiO "D" units, RSi03 / 2"T" units and Si02"Q" units in relative proportions that meet with the relation RnSiO. { 4.n) / 2, where n is a value of 1.0 to 1.50 and R is a methyl group. It is noted that there may also be a small amount, up to 5%, of silanol or of an alkoxy functional group in the structure of the resin as a consequence of processing. The organosiloxane resins should be solid at about 25 ° C and have an approximate molecular weight range of 1000 to 10,000 grams / mole. The resin is soluble in organic solvents such as toluene, xylene, soparaffins and cyclosiloxane or in the volatile carrier; that indicates that it is not sufficiently reticulated to be insoluble in the volatile carrier. Particularly preferred resins are those comprising monofunctional repeating units or R3Si01 / 2"M" units and quadrifunctional units or Si02"Q", otherwise known as "MQ" resins, as described in the US Pat. The USA. no. 5,330,747, Krzysik, issued July 19, 1994 and incorporated herein by reference. In the present invention, the relative proportion of the functional units "M" and "Q" is preferably about 0.7 and the value of n is 1.2. Organosiloxane resins of this type are commercially available as Wacker 803 and 804 from Wacker Silicones Corporation of Adrián Michigan, KP545 of Shin-Etsu Chemical and G.E. 1170-002 of the General Electric Company. DERMOACTIVE AGENT The compositions of the present invention may comprise a safe and effective amount of a dermoactive agent. As used herein, the term "dermoactive agent" refers to an active ingredient that provides a cosmetic and / or therapeutic effect in the area of skin, hair or nails in which it is applied. Dermoactive agents useful herein include skin lightening agents, anti-acne agents, emollients, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, topical anesthetics, artificial tanning agents, antiseptics, antimicrobial and antifungal actives, skin soothing agents, sunscreen agents, skin barrier repair agents, anti-wrinkle agents, antiatrofoderma assets, lipids, sebum inhibitors, agents perceived by the skin, protease inhibitors, skin tightening agents, anti-spoilage agents, hair growth inhibitors, enzymatic desquamation enhancers, anti-glycation agents, and mixtures thereof. When at least one dermoactive agent is included in the composition herein, it is included with a concentration of from about 0.001% to about 30% and preferably from about 0.001% to about 10%. The type and amount of dermoactive agents are selected so that the inclusion of a specific agent does not affect the stability of the composition. Skin lightening agents useful herein refer to active ingredients that improve hyperpigmentation as compared to pretreatment. Skin lightening agents useful herein include the compounds of ascorbic acid, compounds of vitamin B3, azelaic acid, butyl hydroxyanisole, gallic acid and its derivatives, glycyrrhizinic acid, hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, blackberry extract, and mixtures of these. It is believed that the use of combinations of skin lightening agents is advantageous since these can provide a skin lightening benefit through various mechanisms. The ascorbic acid compounds useful herein include ascorbic acid in the L-form, ascorbic acid salt, and derivatives thereof. The ascorbic acid salts useful herein include the sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, barium, ammonium and protamine salts. The ascorbic acid derivatives useful herein include, for example, ascorbic acid esters, and ascorbic acid ester salts. Especially preferred ascorbic acid compounds include 2-o-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid which is an ester of ascorbic acid and glucose usually known as L-ascorbic acid 2-glucoside or ascorbyl glucoside, and its metal salts, and the salts of phosphate ester of L-ascorbic acid such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate, potassium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and calcium ascorbyl phosphate. The commercially available ascorbic acid compounds include magnesium ascorbyl phosphate marketed by Showa Denko, 2-o-D-glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid marketed by Hayashibara and sodium L-ascorbyl phosphate distributed by Roche under the tradename of STAY C. Compounds of vitamin B3 useful in the present include, for example, those having the formula: wherein R is -CONH2 (eg niacinamide) or -CH2OH (eg nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives of these; and you come out of these. Illustrative derivatives of the above vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, acid nicotinyl alcohol esters carboxylic acids, N-oxide of nicotinic acid and N-oxide of niacinamide. Preferred vitamin B3 compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate, and more preferably, niacinamide. In a preferred embodiment, the vitamin B3 compound contains a limited amount of the salt form and more preferably, substantially lacks salts of a vitamin B3 compound. Preferably, the vitamin B3 compound comprises less than about 50% of that salt and more preferably, practically it lacks the salt form. The vitamin B3 compounds commercially available which are especially useful herein include the USP niacinamide marketed by Reilly. Other hydrophobic skin lightening agents useful herein include those derived from ascorbic acid such as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (for example VC-IP, distributed by Nikko Chemical), ascorbyl palmitate (for example that distributed by Roche Vitamins), ascorbyl dipalmitate (for example NIKKOL CP, distributed by Nikko Chemical); undecylenyl phenylalanine (for example SEPIWHITE MSH, distributed by Seppic); octadecenedioic acid (for example ARLATONE DIOIC DCA, distributed by Uniquema); the oenothera biennis seed extract and the pyrus malus fruit extract (apple), and mixtures of these. Other dermoactive agents useful herein include those selected from the group comprising panthenol, tocopheryl nicotinate, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, flavonoids (eg, flavanone, chalcone), farnesol, phytantriol, glycolic acid, lactic acid, acid 4- hydroxybenzoic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, cis-retinoic acid, trans-retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl esters (eg retinyl propionate), phytic acid, N-acetyl -L-cysteine, lipoic acid, tocopherol and their esters (eg tocopheryl acetate), azelaic acid, arachidonic acid, tetracycline, ibuprofen, naproxen, ketoprofen, hydrocortisone, acetaminophen, resorcinol, phenoxyethanoi, phenoxypropanol, phenoxy isopropanol, 2, 4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, octopirox, lidocaine hydrochloride, clotrimazole, miconazole, ketoconazole, neomycin sulfate, theophylline, and mixtures thereof. UV RADIATION ABSORBENT AGENT The compositions of the present invention may comprise a safe and effective amount of a UV absorbing agent. A large variety of conventional UV radiation protection agents such as those described in US Pat. no. 5,087,445, Haffey et al., Issued February 11, 1992; no. 5,073,372, Turner et al., Issued December 17, 1991; and No. 5,073,371, Turner et al., Issued December 17, 1991; and in Segarin, et al., chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq., of Cosmetics Science and Technology (1972). When a UV absorbing agent is included in the composition herein, its concentration ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%.

UV-absorbing agents useful herein are, for example, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (commercially available as PARSOL MCX), butylmethoxydibenzoyl-methane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid , octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, octocrylene, 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimethyl-p-aminebenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone, homomenthyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, , 4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3-benzylidene camphor, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, Eusolex ™ 6300, octocrylene, avobenzone (commercially available as Parsol 1789), and mixtures thereof. ADDITIONAL COMPONENTS The compositions herein may also contain additional components conventionally used in topical application products, for example to provide an aesthetic or functional benefit to the composition or to the skin such as benefits of perception by means of the senses that relate to the appearance, the smell or sensation imparted, therapeutic benefits, or prophylactic benefits (it should be understood that the necessary materials described above may themselves provide those benefits). The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, second edition (1992) describes a wide variety of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the industry and suitable for use in compositions. topical of the present invention. These materials can be dissolved or dispersed in the composition as a function of the relative solubility of the components of the composition. Examples of suitable classes of topical ingredients include: antiadiposis agents, antioxidants, radical scavengers, chelating agents, vitamins and derivatives thereof, abrasives, other oil absorbers, astringents, dyes, essential oils, fragrances, structuring agents, emulsifiers, agents of solubilization, anticaking agents, antifoaming agents, binders, buffering agents, bulking agents, denaturants, pH adjusters, propellants, reducing agents, sequestrants, cosmetic biocides, alcohols and preservatives. PREPARATION OF THE COMPOSITION The composition of the present invention can be made by any method known in the industry. In a suitable process, the solid and liquid water-in-oil emulsion compositions are manufactured by the following steps: 1) Dissolve the volatile silicone oil, the non-volatile oil, the lipophilic surfactant, the slurry of powders dispersed in oil, and any other hydrophobic material in liquid form at room temperature in a sealed tank, to form a lipophilic mixture; 2) add the powders in said lipophilic mixture and disperse with a homogenizer at approximately 20-30 ° C; 3) separately from 1) and 2), heat and dissolve the humectant and any other hydrophilic material in water at about 75-80 ° C, and then cool to about 20-30 ° C; 4) add to the product of step 3) the product of step 2) to achieve an emulsification; 5) heat and add to the product of step 4) the solid wax, if applicable, and any remaining hydrophobic material at approximately 80-85 ° C; and 6) cooling the finally obtained emulsion to a temperature of about 60-80 ° C. The obtained composition, which remains fluid at said temperature, is placed in an airtight container and allowed to cool to room temperature, for which a cooling unit is usually used. The composition obtained is solid at room temperature and, therefore, can be poured into said container and allowed to solidify. The hermetic container is usually a compact.

EXAMPLES The following examples describe and demonstrate the preferred embodiments that are within the scope of the present invention. The examples are provided for illustrative purposes only and they should not be construed as limiting the present invention since many variations of it are possible without deviating from its spirit and scope. The following water-in-oil makeup compositions are manufactured by the process described below: Composition for EXAMPLES 1-5 Compositions for EXAMPLES 6-10 Compositions for Examples 11-15 Definitions of components * 1 Cyclopentasiloxane: SH245, distributed by Dow Corning * 2 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone PEG-9: KF-6028, distributed by Shinetsu Silicone * 3 Dimethicone and crosslinked polymer of dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone: KSG-16, distributed by Shinetsu Silicone * 4 Trimethylsiloxysilicate and cyclopentasiloxane: Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Cyclomethicone D5 Blend, distributed by GE Toshiba Silicones * 5 Tocopheryl acetate: DL-a-Tocopheryl Acétate, distributed by Eisai * 6 Isotridecyl isononanoate: Crodamol TN, distributed by Croda * 7 Sorbitan monoisostearate: Crill 6, distributed by Croda * 8 Iron oxide slurry and cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone and hydrogenated disodium glutamate: SA / NAI-Y-10 / D5 (70% ), SA / NAI-R-10 / D5 (65%) and SA / NAI-B-10 / D5 (75%), distributed by Miyoshi Kasei * 9 Milk of titanium dioxide and cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone and hydrogenated disodium glutamate: SA / NAI-TR-10 / D5 (80%), distributed by Miyoshi Kasei * 10 Titanium dioxide slurry and cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone and methicone: SAS-TTO-S-3 / D5 (50%), distributed by Miyoshi Kasei * 11 Titanium dioxide and methicone: SI Titanium Dioxide IS, distributed by Miyoshi Kasei * 12 Alumina and titanium dioxide and methicone: Sl- LTSG30AFLAKEH (5%) LHC, distributed by Nippon Sheet Glass Co. Ltd. and surface treated by Miyoshi Kasei "13 Titanium dioxide and dimethicone and aluminum hydroxide and stearic acid: SAST-UFTR-Z, distributed by Miyoshi Kasei * "1? 4 Methyl methacrylated methacrylate-methylated methacrylic lens polymer: SI-L-XC-F006Z, distributed by Sekisui Plastics Co., Ltd. and surface treated by Miyoshi Kasei * 15 Spherical and methicone silica: SI-SILDEX H-52, distributed by Asahi Glass Company Co., Ltd. and surface treated by Miyoshi Kasei, with an oil absorbency of more than 200 me / 100 g * 16 Vinyl-dimethicone cross-linked polymer / methicone silsesquioxane: KSP-100, distributed by Shinetsu Silicone * 17 Mica and zinc oxide and methicone and hydroxyapatite: SI-PLV-20, distributed by Miyoshi Kasei * 18 Mica coated with methicone: SI Mica, distributed by Miyoshi Kasei * 19 Polyvinylpyrrolidone: PVP K-30, distributed by BASF * 20 Niacinamide: Niacinamide, distributed by Reilly Industries Inc. * 21 Panthenol: DL-Panthenol, distributed by Alps Pharmaceutical Ind. * 22 Glycerin: Glycerin USP, distributed by Asahi Denka * 23 Butylene glycol: 1, 3 Butylene Glycol, distributed by Kyowa Hakko Kogyo * 24 Candelilla wax: Candelilla wax NC-1630, distributed by Cerarica Noda * 25 Ceresina: Ozokerite wax SP-1021, distributed by Strahl & Pitsh * 26 Microcrystalline wax: Multiwax 180M Yellow, distributed by Witco Petroleum Specialties * 27 Polymethylmethacrylate 20 μm: GANZ PEARL GM-2000, distributed by GANZ CHEMICAL CO., LTD. * 28 Polymethylmethacrylate 8 μm: GANZ PEARL GM-0800S, distributed by GANZ CHEMICAL CO., LTD. * 29 Polymethylmethacrylate 6 μm: GANZ PEARL GM-0600, distributed by GANZ CHEMICAL CO., LTD. * 30 Nylon-12 5 μm: NYLON POWDER SP-500, distributed by TORAY * 31 Talc coated with methicone: SI TALC, distributed by MIYOSHI KASEI, INC. * 32 Spherical silica: Godd ball SF-16C, distributed by Suzuki Yushi Industrial Co., LTD., With an oil absorbency of more than 200 me / 100 g * 33 Sericite coated with methicone: SI SERICITE, distributed by MIYOSHI KASEI, INC. * 34 Mica coated with titanium dioxide: FLAMENCO SUPER PEARL, distributed by THE MEARL * 35 Metilparabén: METHYL PARABEN, distributed by UENO PHARMACEUTICALS * 36 Propilparabén: PROPYL PARABEN, distributed by UENO PHARMACEUTICALS * 37 Iron oxide coated with methicone: series I RON OXIDE, distributed by DAITO KASEI KOUGYOU CO., LTD. * 38 Methylphenylpolysiloxane: KF56, distributed by SHINETSU CHEMICAL CO., LTD. * 39 Dimethicone: SH200, distributed by Dow Corning * 40 Dextrin palmitate / ethylhexanoate: RHEOPEARL TT, distributed by CHIBA FLOUR MILLING CO., LTD. * 41 D-delta-tocopherol: D-DELTA-TOCOPHEROL, distributed by EISAI CO., LTD. * 42 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate: PARSOL MCX, distributed by ROCHE VITAMINS JAPAN K.K. * 43 Colesteryl 12-hydroxystearate: HS SALACOS, distributed by Nisshin Oil Mills * 44 Copolyol of cetyldimethicone: ABIL EM90, distributed by Goldschmidt Personal Care * 45 Dimethicone and mica with titanium aggregate: SA-FLAMENCO SUPER PEARL / SA-FLAMENCO RED, distributed by MIYOSHI KASEI, INC. Method of preparation The make-up compositions of Examples 1-6 are prepared as follows: 1) Component numbers 1 to 10 are mixed with a suitable mixer until a homogeneous consistency is obtained to form a lipophilic mixture. 2) Component numbers 11 through 18 are mixed with a suitable mixer until a homogeneous consistency is obtained to form a powder mix. The powder mixture is sprayed with a spray. The powder mixture is added to the lipophilic mixture with a suitable mixer until it acquires a homogeneous consistency. 3) The component numbers from 19 to 23 are dissolved with a suitable mixer until all the components are completely dissolved to form an aqueous phase. The aqueous phase is added to the product of step 2) to achieve an emulsion at room temperature using a homogenizer. 4) The component numbers from 26 to 28 are added to the product of step 3). For Examples 1 to 5, this The mixture is heated to dissolve at 80-85 ° C in a sealed tank to melt the waxes. 5) Finally, the obtained emulsion is placed in an airtight container and allowed to cool to room temperature using a cooling unit. The makeup compositions of Examples 6-10 are prepared as follows: 1) The component numbers from 1 to 12 are mixed with a suitable mixer until a homogeneous consistency is obtained to form a lipophilic mixture. 2) Component numbers 13 to 19 are mixed with a suitable mixer until a homogeneous consistency is obtained to form a powder mix. The powder mixture is sprayed with a spray. The powder mixture and numbers 20 and 21 are added to the lipophilic mixture with a suitable mixer until a homogeneous consistency is obtained. 3) The component numbers from 21 to 29 are dissolved with a suitable mixer until all components are completely dissolved to form an aqueous phase. The aqueous phase is added to the product of step 2) to form an emulsion at room temperature using a dispersing mixer or a homogenizer. 4) Finally, the obtained emulsion is placed in an airtight container. The makeup compositions of Examples 11-15 are prepared as follows: Component numbers 1 to 15 are mixed with a mixer to form a powder component. Separately, the component numbers from 20 to 23 are mixed with heat, the component numbers 18 and 19 are added and mixed until well dissolved, and components 16 and 17 are added and mixed to form a binder component. The binder component is added to the powder component and mixed with a mixer. The resulting composition is pressed into a tray and compacted. These embodiments represented by the above examples have many advantages when applied to the skin as makeup compositions. Examples 1-4 are useful as a solid makeup base. Example 5 is useful as a foundation for makeup. Examples 6-10 are useful as a liquid makeup base. Examples 11-15 are useful as a foundation powder. All the modalities provide, for example, a greater benefit of sebum control to the skin without compromising the good coverage, and also provide a better spreading and moisturizing to the skin and leave it clear and with a refreshing sensation. All documents cited in the Detailed Description of the invention are incorporated in their relevant parts as reference in the present document; the appointment of any document should not be construed as an admission that it constitutes a prior industry with respect to the present invention. While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It has been intended, therefore, to cover in the appended claims all changes and modifications that are within the scope of the invention.

Claims (12)

NOVELTY OF THE INVENTION CLAIMS

1. A makeup composition comprising, by weight: from about 1% to about 20% of a tallow solidifying powder comprising a base substance having a hydroxyapatite coated on the base substance, and a zinc oxide attached to the coating layer of the hydroxyapatite, wherein the zinc oxide is from about 15% to about 25% by weight of the tallow solidifying powder; from about 1% to about 10% of an inorganic oil absorbing powder having an oil absorbency of at least about 200 me / 100 g, wherein the weight ratio of the tallow solidifying powder to the oil absorbing powder inorganic varies from about 1: 1.5 to about 20: 1; and a suitable carrier.

2. The makeup composition according to claim 1, further characterized in that the inorganic oil absorbing powder is spherical silica with an average particle size of about 1 μm to about 30 μm.

3. The makeup composition according to claim 1, further characterized in that the weight ratio between the The tallow solidifying powder and the inorganic oil absorbing powder is from about 1: 1 to about 2: 1.

4. The make-up composition according to claims 1, 2 or 3, further characterized in that the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion composition comprising, by weight: (a) from about 10% to about 25% of a powder component; the powder component comprises, by weight, the entire composition: (i) from about 1% to about 15% of the tallow solidifying powder; and (ii) from about 1% to about 10% of the inorganic oil absorbing powder; (b) a volatile silicone oil; (c) a non-volatile oil; (d) a lipophilic surfactant with an HLB less than about 8; and (e) water.

5. The water-in-oil emulsified make-up composition according to claim 4, further characterized in that the lipophilic surfactant comprises a surfactant of the ester type and a surfactant of the silicone type.

6. The emulsified water-in-oil makeup composition according to claim 4, further characterized in that it additionally comprises from about 1% to about 15% of a humectant.

7. The emulsified water-in-oil makeup composition according to claim 4, further characterized in that it additionally comprises a powder having a silky focus effect.

8. The emulsified water-in-oil makeup composition according to claim 4, further characterized in that it additionally comprises an organic oil absorbing powder.

9. The emulsified water-in-oil makeup composition according to claim 4, further characterized in that it additionally comprises a film-forming polymer. The emulsified water-in-oil makeup composition according to claim 4, further characterized in that the composition is in solid form and comprises, by weight: (b) from about 20% to about 50% of the volatile silicone oil; (c) from about 0.5% to about 10% of the non-volatile oil; (d) from about 1% to about 5% of the lipophilic surfactant; (e) water in an amount such that the total volatile silicone oil and water is at least 50%; and (f) from about 1% to about 5% of a solid wax. The emulsified water-in-oil makeup composition according to claim 4, further characterized in that the composition is presented in liquid form and comprises, by weight: (b) from about 20% to about 50% of the volatile silicone oil; (c) from about 0.5% to about 20% of the non-volatile oil; (d) from about 0.1% to about 10% of the lipophilic surfactant; (e) from about 10% to about 60% of water; (f) from about 0% to about 5% optional thickener, 12. The make-up composition according to claims 1, 2 or 3, further characterized in that the composition is in powder form and comprises, by weight: ( a) from about 75% to about 97% of a powder component; the powder component comprises, by weight of the entire composition: (i) from about 1% to about 20% of the tallow solidifying powder; and (ii) from about 1% to about 10% of the inorganic oil absorbing powder; and (b) from about 3% to about 25% of a binder selected from the group comprising volatile silicone oil, non-volatile oil, thickener, lipophilic surfactant, water, humectant and mixtures thereof.