MX2007003485A - Methods of rapid hair dyeing - Google Patents

Methods of rapid hair dyeing

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Publication number
MX2007003485A
MX2007003485A MXMX/A/2007/003485A MX2007003485A MX2007003485A MX 2007003485 A MX2007003485 A MX 2007003485A MX 2007003485 A MX2007003485 A MX 2007003485A MX 2007003485 A MX2007003485 A MX 2007003485A
Authority
MX
Mexico
Prior art keywords
hair
composition
amino
company
diamine
Prior art date
Application number
MXMX/A/2007/003485A
Other languages
Spanish (es)
Inventor
Neil Mckelvey Graham
Mary Marsh Jennifer
David Wyrko Andrew
Original Assignee
The Procter & Gamble Company
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by The Procter & Gamble Company filed Critical The Procter & Gamble Company
Publication of MX2007003485A publication Critical patent/MX2007003485A/en

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a method of hair colouring and bleaching compositions providing a composition comprising i) at least one source of peroxymonocarbonate ions, ii) at least one alkalizing agent, preferably a source of ammonium ions, and iii) at least one radical scavenger, wherein said composition has a pH of up to 9.5, and applying the composition to the hair and retaining on the hair for a period of less than 20 minutes, which provide a high level of lift and lightening and the required dye deposition and grey coverage whilst reducing the concentration of peroxide, the ammonia odour and reducing the hair fibre damage.

Description

METHOD FOR FAST HAIR DYEING FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for decolorization and rapid coloring of keratinous fibers.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The permanent alteration of the color of the keratinous fibers, in particular the human hair, by means of the application of hair dyes is well known. To provide the consumer with the desired hair color and hair color intensity, a very complex chemical process is used. Formulations for permanent hair dyeing usually comprise oxidative hair dye precursors, which can diffuse into the hair through the cuticle and into the cortex where they can react with each other and other suitable oxidizing agents to form the dye molecules final. The resulting molecules have a larger size and therefore are unable to easily diffuse out of the hair during the subsequent washing with water and / or detergents; therefore they provide a permanence of the color desired by the consumer. The reaction is usually carried out in an aggressive environment of about pH 10 in the presence of an alkalizing agent and an oxidizing agent. In addition, the consumer repeats this process regularly to maintain the tone and intensity of hair color and to ensure continuous and even coverage of the hair, including the coverage of new hair growth. However, despite the fact that commercial products for the Hair dyeing has been available for many years, the product still exhibits many deficiencies related to the use by consumers. In particular, the application of products for dyeing the hair is still a process that consumes a relatively long time and the consumer may take more than an hour to mix, apply, wait for the color to develop and remove the product, before drying and returning. to comb For most consumers, the process of hair dyeing is a regular part of their beauty routine; therefore, it would be highly convenient to reduce the time needed to dye the hair while maintaining the other requirements that include ease of application, low odor and especially the supply of the desired hair color, particularly for consumers seeking changes and / or significant levels of increase in the color obtained. Several attempts have been described in the literature to reduce the time of application necessary to dye the hair, for example, by the use of oxidative hair dye or bleaching compositions comprising carbonate. For example, WO01 / 28508 discloses hair coloration and discoloration compositions comprising an oxidizing agent, hair coloring agents and carbonate and / or ammonium carbamate that improves discoloration and discoloration with low odor and damage to hair without need of using buffering agents, pH modifiers or hair bulking agents. The compositions are applied to the hair for a period of time from 1 to 60 minutes. French patent FR1592939 describes a composition for dyeing hair comprising oxidizing dyes, ammonium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide with a pH 7-9 which provides an effective dyeing in a fairly short period of time. European patent EP435012 discloses compositions for hair dyeing that require a short period of dyeing, cause little damage to the hair and do not produce irritating odor after dyeing, comprising a carbonate source, an alkaline hydrogen peroxide that generates no odor and a buffer solution. Also, European patent EP1106166 discloses hair dyeing compositions comprising ammonia, carbonate (other than the ammonia salt), transition metal salt and chelating agent, which do not give off an irritating odor, produce little irritation to the skin and They can change the hair color to a lighter shade in short time. Patent WO04 / 014328 describes in one step compositions for hair coloring comprising peroxide oxidizing agents, specific oxidizing agents and at least one water-soluble salt that releases carbonate, which provide color with greater efficiency and are applied for a period of 2 to 60 minutes. Other attempts have been described in U.S. Pat. no. 6,703,004 which discloses hair bleaching compositions comprising an aqueous oxidizing agent, persulfate and a hydrophilic oil, in amounts sufficient to provide a mixture containing 3-5% active oxygen and 0.7-1.2 meq / g alkalinity, wherein the composition It can discolor hair in 10 to 30 minutes. Also, the U.S. patent no. No. 6,669,933 discloses an aqueous coloring composition for oxidative hair coloring in less than 12 minutes comprising a mixture of dye and developer, a free alkalinity concentration of 0.2-0.75 meq / g and hydrogen peroxide. U.S. Pat. no. 2004/0078906 describes a process for rapidly dyeing and decolorizing keratin by means of which a specific direct dye is applied to fibers in which less than 5 minutes is left. Other attempts to reduce the application time of hair dyes on the head involve methods that require short consecutive treatments with hair dyes by means of which the color change is gradually obtained after a time. For example, WO01 / 76546 describes a method of hair coloring which comprises the steps of applying to the hair a composition that alters the color thereof and leaving it in the hair for approximately 0.5 to 15 minutes, wherein this method is repeated from once a month to approximately 3 times a day. U.S. Pat. no. 2003/0154561 describes a method for applying an oxidative shampoo for a period of time from 5 seconds to 5 minutes, wherein the treatment is repeated from 2 to 30 times and the time interval between treatments is from 8 hours to 30 days. Also, the U.S. patent no. 2004/0098814 discloses a method of permanent dyeing, wherein the hair is subjected to a number of consecutive short treatments comprising a dye intermediate in a shampoo or conditioner base, a water soluble salt that releases carbonate and an ammonium salt soluble in water. U.S. Pat. no. 2004/0098816 also discloses a method for the gradual permanent coloration of the hair by which the hair is subjected to several treatments spaced apart for a given period of time, wherein the treatment compositions comprise ammonium carbonate combined with a chelant. However, none of these documents successfully addresses the problems associated with the rapid delivery of color to hair. In particular, the problem of hair damage caused by the use of high concentrations of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia to provide the required increase and color, and similarly, the scalp irritation problem also generally produced by a high concentration of Hydrogen peroxide and ammonia and also the high pH value are not satisfactorily resolved with the technologies and products currently marketed. Another critical problem related to the fast coloration compositions of the prior industry is the delivery of the desired resultant color and also the Effective coverage of gray hair whose quantity and distribution vary considerably among different consumers. The previous industry does not provide the necessary tone and depth of color or meet the needs of consumers who want to clarify the color of their hair at various levels of increase. To significantly lighten the hair it is necessary to decolorize it considerably and this is currently only achieved by using compositions comprising high levels of hydrogen peroxide and which are used on the hair for a prolonged period of time for the consumer to obtain the desired color. Also, the compositions of the prior industry also do not provide the hair with a uniform and uniform color or maintain the initial color coverage obtained during the washing and drying cycle after dyeing. Therefore, it would be desirable to also provide the consumer with a hair colorant that provides the desired levels of increase and rinsing, as well as a better color supply and less damage, less irritation of the skin and scalp and little odor, which be effective for shorter application time periods than currently available products and that can be used as part of a consumer's usual beauty care routine. In addition, it would also be desirable to provide a rapid color supply system that solves the problem of rapid but adequate application of the composition to the hair. It has now been surprisingly discovered that oxidative hair coloring compositions comprising an oxidizing agent, a carbonate ion source and an alkalizing agent at pH 9.5 and below provide a fast-acting decolorizer or dye for the hair that provides the desired color in a development time less than 20 minutes in the hair of the consumer, at the same time that it supplies the desired color as that supplied by ammonia / peroxide systems currently used that require a waiting time of 45 minutes. further, the method of the present invention reduces damage to the hair, reduces irritation of the skin and scalp, has low odor and is compatible with the current dye and dye precursor systems, and this produces an improvement in the increase and clarification of the blond tones, an optimal deposition of the dye, uniformity and color, in particular gray hair coverage, which is maintained through the washing and styling cycles of the consumers until the next coloring treatment. The method also allows the rapid application of the compositions to the hair and minimizes the staining of the skin of consumers, in particular by the hairline, while still supplying the desired color.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for oxidative staining and discoloration of hair comprising the steps of supplying a composition comprising i) at least one source of peroxy monocarbonate ions and ii) at least one source of alkalizing agent, preferably ions ammonium, where that composition has a pH of up to 9.5, inclusive, and then apply that composition to the hair and retain that composition in the hair for a period of less than 20 minutes to then rinse that hair composition. In another aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition comprising i) at least one source of peroxy monocarbonate ions and ii) at least one source of alkalizing agent, preferably ammonium ions, wherein said composition has a pH of up to 9.5, inclusive, for oxidative coloring or discoloration of the hair in less than 20 minutes. Another aspect of the present invention relates to a sequential method of coloration or oxidative discoloration of the hair comprising the steps of applying at least two sequential treatments of coloration or oxidative discoloration of the hair, wherein the period of time between each treatment is from 1 day to 60 days, and wherein each treatment comprises the steps of providing a composition comprising i) at least one source of peroxy monocarbonate ions and ii) at least one source of alkalizing agent, preferably ammonium ions, wherein said composition has a pH less than 9.5 and then applying that composition to the hair and retaining that composition in the hair for a period of less than 20 minutes to then rinse that composition of the hair. Another aspect of the present invention relates to a method for pretreating the hair wherein a pretreatment composition comprising at least one conditioning agent that is retained on the hair prior to applying the dye or decolorizing composition to the hair is first applied to the hair.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Even though the specification concludes with the claims that in a particular manner clearly state and claim the invention, it is believed that the present invention will be better understood from the following description. As used herein, the term "hair" to be treated may well be "live", ie, that which is in a living organism, or "not alive", that is, that of a wig, a hairpiece or another aggregation of non-living keratinous fibers. Mammalian hair, preferably human hair is preferred. However, wool, skin or other fibers containing keratin are suitable substrates for the compositions according to the present invention.
All percentages are by weight of the total composition, unless specifically indicated otherwise. When more than one composition is used during a treatment, the total weight to be considered is the total weight of all the compositions applied simultaneously on the hair (i.e., the weight found "on the head") unless indicated by any another way. All proportions are proportions by weight, unless specifically indicated otherwise. The permanent hair coloring products currently marketed typically use a combination of an alkalizing system, dye precursors and an oxidant to deliver the desired hair color to the consumer. The alkalizing agent is generally ammonia or an alkanolamine, such as monoethanolamine and the oxidant is generally hydrogen peroxide or a solid form of hydrogen peroxide. The final color of the hair that is supplied to the consumer is a combination of the result of the underlying discoloration of the melanin pigment in the hair fiber and the supply of the chromophore portions of dye which are preformed, ie direct dyes, or which are they form through of the oxidation of the dye precursors within the fiber of the hair. The optimum pH for those systems normally has approximately pH 10.0. This high pH is necessary to produce a sufficient concentration of the perhydroxy anion (HOO-) to obtain the desired decolorization of the melamine. It has been discovered that below pH 9.5 the concentration of this species is less than 0.01% of the concentration of hydrogen peroxide added (pKa = 11.6) and the amount of melanin discoloration drops dramatically and therefore is insufficient to provide the desired final color. Nevertheless, as described above, the compositions that have a high pH cause many disadvantages observed by consumers of these coloring systems. In particular, the level of volatile ammonia increases at high pH (above pH 9.5) providing greater unpleasant odor. Also, some consumers suffer from irritation of the skin and scalp. In addition, the reactive species, including the perhydroxy anion, react with the hair fiber producing significant damage to the fiber. A consequence of this reactivity is that the hydrophilicity of the hair fibers increases significantly and this causes an increase in the force required to comb the hair as compared to the hair that has not been dyed. In addition, the greater forces that are exerted during styling and styling also increase the damage to the hair fibers. It has now surprisingly been found that a method for hair coloration and discoloration wherein a composition comprising the combination of at least one source of peroxy monocarbonate ions, preferably formed in place from a source of hydrogen peroxide and a carbonate ion source and at least one source of alkalizing agents, and preferably at least one source of radical scavenger, (as defined hereinafter), and preferably dyes and / or dye precursors, at a pH of up to 9.5, inclusive, preferably from 7.5 to 9.5, which is applied to the consumer's hair for a period of time less than 20 minutes can provide improvements in the results of the desired color for the hair, and at the same time considerably reduce the odor, Irritation of the skin and scalp and damage to hair fibers. Without theoretical limitations of any kind, it is believed that in the present invention the key species responsible for the discoloration of melanin, i.e., the peroxy ion monocarbonate (-OC (O) OOH), decomposes at pH values above 9.5 to form oxygen and the hydrogen carbonate ion. At pH values below 7.5 the Hydrogen carbonate ion decomposes to form carbon dioxide and water. At pH values of 9.0 the melanin discoloration and the final color observed is at an optimum level. In this way surprisingly the present invention allows the supply of greater increase, i.e. the lightening of the hair which is a very desirable necessity of the consumers. In addition, compositions having a pH below 9.5 have the benefit that not only the unpleasant odor of ammonia is significantly reduced, but fiber damage is also reduced. In addition, due to the kinetics of the carbonate system, the compositions are developed in the hair of the consumer's head in a short time of up to about 20 minutes to provide an improved uniform color which is maintained during the washing and styling cycle. The compositions according to the present invention thus comprise a source of peroxymonocarbonate ions. These ions are generally formed at the site of the reaction between a source of hydrogen peroxide and carbonate ion. Accordingly, the compositions according to the present invention comprise or are used in combination with a composition comprising at least one source of an oxidizing agent. Preferred oxidizing agents to be used herein are water soluble peroxygen oxidizing agents. "Soluble in water", as defined herein, means that under standard conditions at least 0.1 g, preferably 1 g, more preferably 10 g of the oxidizing agent can be dissolved in 1 liter of deionized water. Oxidizing agents are valuable for the initial solubilization and discoloration of melanin (discoloration) and accelerate the oxidation of oxidative dye precursors (oxidative staining) on the hair shaft. Any oxidizing agent known in the industry can be used in the present invention. Water-soluble oxidizing agents are compounds Inorganic peroxygenates with the capacity to produce hydrogen peroxide in an aqueous solution. Water-soluble peroxygen oxidizing agents are well known in the industry and include hydrogen peroxide, inorganic peroxides, alkali metals such as sodium periodate and sodium peroxide, and organic peroxides such as urea peroxide, melamine peroxide and salt bleaching compounds. inorganic perhydrate such as alkali metal salts of perborates, percarbonates, perfosphates, persilicates, persulfates and the like. These salts of inorganic perhydrate can be incorporated as monohydrates, tetrahydrates, etc. The alkyl and aryl peroxides and peroxidases can also be used. If desired, mixtures of two or more of these oxidizing agents can be used. The oxidizing agents can be provided in aqueous solution or as a powder that dissolves before use. Preferred for use in the compositions according to the present invention are hydrogen peroxide, percarbonate (which can be used to provide a source of both an oxidizing agent and carbonate ions), persulfates and combinations thereof. According to the present invention the compositions comprise from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 7% by weight, and most preferably from about 2% to about 5% by weight of a oxidizing agent. Carbonate ion source In accordance with the present invention the compositions also comprise in this way at least one source of carbonate ions or carbamate ions or hydrocarbonate ions or any mixture thereof. Any source of these ions can be used. Suitable sources for use herein include sodium, potassium, guanidine, arginine, lithium, calcium, magnesium, barium, ammonium salts of carbonate, carbamate and hydrocarbon ions and mixtures thereof, such as sodium carbonate, hydrogen sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium hydrogen carbonate, guanidine carbonate, guanidine hydrogen carbonate, lithium carbonate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, barium carbonate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate and mixtures of these. The percarbonate salts can also be used to provide both the carbonate ion source and the oxidizing agent. The preferred sources of carbonate ions, carbamate and hydrocarbon ions are sodium hydrogen carbonate, hydrogen hydrogen carbonate, ammonium carbamate and mixtures thereof. The compositions of the present invention may comprise from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to about 8% by weight of the carbonate ion. If they are included in the composition, the weight ratio of the ammonium ions and the carbonate ions is preferably from 3: 1 to 1:10, more preferably from 2: 1 to 1: 5. In an especially preferred embodiment of the present invention, ammonium ions and carbonate ion sources are supplied from a single source such as ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, ammonium hydrocarbonate or mixtures thereof.
Source of Alkalizing Agent In accordance with the present invention, the composition also comprises at least one source of alkalizing agent, preferably a source of ammonium and ammonia ions. Any agent known in the industry can be used, such as alkanolamides, for example, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monopropanolamine, dipropanolamine, tripropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1-propanol, and 2-amino-2-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol and salts of guanidinium. In particular, the preferred alkalizing agents are those that provide a source of ammonium ions. Any source of ammonium ions is suitable for use in the present. Preferred sources include ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium acetate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, ammonium carbamate, ammonium hydroxide, percarbonate salts, ammonia and mixtures thereof. Particular preference is given to ammonium carbonate, ammonium carbamate, ammonia and mixtures thereof. The compositions of the present invention may comprise from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 6%, with the maximum preference of about 1% to about 3% of an alkalizing agent, preferably ammonium ions. pH In accordance with the method of the present invention, the compositions herein have a pH up to pH 9.5, inclusive. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention have a pH of from about 9.5 to about 7.5, more preferably from about 9.5 to about 8.4, with a greater preference from about 9.4 to about 8.5 and even more preferably about pH 9.0. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention are prepared in such a way that before application to the hair fibers, the pH of the composition is not greater than about pH 9.5. However, in another embodiment of the present invention, the compositions can be formulated in such a way that the pH is up to 9.5 during the period of time of application of the composition to the fibers of the hair before removing it from there. Preferably, the pH is up to about 9.5 by at least 50% of the time period, preferably at least 70%, more preferably at least 80% and most preferably at least 90% of the time period of application of the composition to the hair. The pH of the compositions can be determined using the Mettler Toledo MP220 pH meter or a MP225, equipped with a standard laboratory pH electrode. The equipment is calibrated before each use using standard calibration buffers and using the standard calibration procedure. For a good rinse and a good color formation, it is known that the final formulation must have good buffering capacity or reserve alkalinity (the ability of the system to resist the pH change that would otherwise be caused by the addition of acid). Reserve alkalinity is measured using a Mettler DL70 autotitator with 0.1 N methanolic hydrochloric acid which is added to 0.7 ml of well-mixed dye product in 50 ml of methanol. The electrode is calibrated and then used to measure the amount of acid needed to reach the maximum equivalence point triggered by a rapid pH change. Using this method it has been determined that a reserve alkalinity of at least 0.2 ml of 0.1 N ethanolic hydrochloric acid and preferably greater than 0.4 is necessary for good rinsing and coloring. Suitable pH regulating systems include mixtures of ammonium acetate / ammonia, monoethanolamine tetrasodium pyrophosphate, isopropanolamine, benzoic acid.
Additional components The compositions of the present invention may further comprise additional ingredients including, but not limited to, hair dyeing agents such as oxidative dye precursors, non-oxidative dyes, thickeners, solvents, enzymes, suryactants, conditioning agents, carriers, antioxidants, stabilizers, chelators, permanent agents, perfume, reducing agents (thiolactic acid), hair bulking agents, oils hydrophobes such as coconut oil, mineral oil, isopropyl myristate, linseed oil and octyl palmitate and / or polymers. Some of these additional components are detailed below.
Hair dyes The hair coloring compositions of the present invention are preferably hair coloring compositions comprising oxidative dyeing compositions. These compositions comprise oxidative hair dye precursors (also known as primary intermediates) that will deliver a variety of hair colors to the hair. These small molecules are activated by the oxidizing agent and react with other molecules to form a larger colored complex on the hair shaft. The precursors may be used alone or in combination with other precursors, and one or more may be used in combination with one or more coupling agents. Coupling agents (also known as color modifiers or secondary intermediates) are usually colorless molecules that can form colors in the presence of activated precursors, and are used with other precursors or coupling agents to generate specific color effects or to stabilize the color. The choice of precursors and coupling agents will be determined by the color, tone and intensity of the coloration desired. In the present, precursors and coupling agents can be used, either alone or combined, to provide dyes that have a variety of shades, ranging from blond ash to black. These compounds are well known in the industry, and include aromatic diamines, aminophenols, and their derivatives (a representative but non-limiting list of the oxidation dye precursor can be found in the Sagarin publication, "Cosmetic Science and Technology. cosmetics) "," Interscience, Special Edition Vol. 2 pages 308 to 310. It should be understood that the precursors listed below are examples and that it is not intended to limit the compositions and processes herein. phenylenediamine, eg benzene-1,4-diamine (commonly known as p-phenylenediamine), 2-methylbenzene-1,4-diamine, 2-chloro-benzene-1,4-diamine, N-phenylbenzene-1, 4-diamine, N- (2-ethoxyethyl) benzene-1,4-diamine, 2 - [(4-aminophenyl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino] -ethanol, (commonly known as N, N-bis (2 -hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine) (2,5-diaminophenyl) -methanol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 2- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -ethanol, N- (4- aminophenyl) ben Ceno-1, 4-diamine, 2,6-dimethylbenzene-1,4-diamine, 2-isopropylbenzene-1,4-diamine, 1 - [(4-aminophenyl) amino] -propan-2-ol, 2-propylbenzene -1,4-diamine, 1,3-bis [(4-aminophenyl) (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] propan-2-ol, N 4, N 4,2-trimethylbenzene-1,4-diamine, 2-methoxy-benzene -1,4-diamine, 1- (2,5-diaminophenyl) ethane-1,2-diol, 2,3-dimethylbenzene-1,4-diamine, N- (4-amino-3-hydroxyphenyl) -acetamide, 2,6-diethylbenzene-1,4-diamine, 2,5-dimethylbenzene-1,4-diamine, 2-thien-2-ylbenzene-1,4-diamine, 2-thien-3-ylbenzene-1, 4- diamine, 2-pyridin-3-ylbenzene-1,4-diamine, 1,1'-biphenyl-2,5-diamine, 2- (methoxymethyl) benzene-1,4-diamine, 2- (aminomethyl) benzene-1 , 4-diamine, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, N- [2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethyl] -acetamide, N, N-dimethylbenzene-1,4-diamine, N, N-diethylbenzene -1,4-diamine, N, N-dipropylbenzene-1,4-diamine, 2 - [(4-aminophenyl) (ethyl) amino] ethanol, 2 - [(4-amino-3-methyl-phenyl) - ( 2-hydroxyethyl) -amino] -ethanol, N- (2-methoxyethyl) -benzene-1,4-diamine, 3 - [(4- aminophenyl) amino] propan-1-ol, 3 - [(4-aminophenyl) -amino] propane-1,2-diol, N-. { 4 - [(4-aminophenyl) amino] butyl} benzene-1, 4-diamine, and 2- [2- (2- { 2 - [(2,5-diaminophenyl) -oxy] ethoxy} ethoxy) ethoxy] benzene-1,4-diamine; 1,3-bis (N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (4-aminophenyl) amino) -2-propanol; 2,2 '- [1,2-ethanediyl-bis- (oxy-2,1-ethanediyloxy)] - bis-benzene-1,4-diamine; N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine; p-aminophenol derivatives such as: 4-aminophenol (commonly known as p-aminophenol), 4-methylaminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4- amino-1-hydroxy-2- (2'-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) benzene, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 5-amino-2-hydroxy-benzoic acid, 1- (5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) -ethane-2, -diol, 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -phenol, 4-amino-3- (hydroxymethyl) phenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro-phenol, 4-amino-2- (aminomethyl) -phenol, 4-amino-2-fluoro-phenol; 1-hydroxy-2,4-diaminobenzene; 1- (2'-hydroxyethyloxy) -2,4-diaminobenzene; 2,4-diamino-5-methylfenetol; o-phenylenediamine derivatives such as 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and salts thereof; o-aminophenol derivatives such as 2-aminophenol (commonly known as o-aminophenol), 2,4-diaminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol, N- (4-amino-3-) hydroxyphenyl) -acetamide, and 2-amino-4-methylphenol; and heterocyclic derivatives such as pyrimidine-2,4,5,6-tetramine (commonly known as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyridine), 1-methyl-1 H-pyrazole-4,5-diamine, 2- (4 , 5-diamino-1 H-pyrazol-1-yl) ethanol, N2, N2-dimethylpyridin-2,5-diamine, 2 - [(3-amino-6-methoxypyridin-2-yl) amino] ethanol, 6-methoxy-N2-methylpyridine-2,3-diamine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidin-4 (1 H) -one, pyridine-2,5-diamine, 1-isopropyl-1 H-pyrazole-4,5 -diamine, 1- (4-methylbenzyl) -1 H-pyrazole-4,5-diamine, 1 - (benzyl) -1 H -pyrazole-4,5-diamine, 1- (4-chlorobenzyl) -1 H- pyrazole-4,5-diamine, pyrazolo [1,5-a] -pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 5,6,7-trimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamine hydrochloride, hydrochloride 7 -methylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamine, 2,5,6,7-teramethyl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamine hydrochloride > 5,7-di-tert-butylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamine hydrochloride, 5,7-di-trifluoromethyl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamine hydrochloride, hydrochloride 2-methylprazole [1, 5-a] pyrimidin-3,7-diamine; 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine; 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene; and 1-hydroxyethyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole sulfate. Additional developers include / V- (3-furylmethyl) benzene-1,4-diamine; N-thiophen-3-ylmethylbenzene-1,4-diamine; / V- (2-furylmethyl) benzene-1,4-diamine; N-thiophen-2-ylmethylbenzene-1,4-diamine acid; 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (2,5-diaminobenzylidene) -hydrazide; 3- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -N-ethylacrylamide; 2- [3- (3-aminophenylamino) -propenyl] -benzene-1,4-diamine; 2- [3- (4-aminophenylamino) -propenyl] -benzene-1,4-diamine; 2- (6-methyl-pyridin-2-yl) -benzene-1,4-diamine; 2-pyridin-2-ylbenzene-1,4-diamine; 2- [3- (4-aminophenylamino) -propenyl] -benzene-1,4-diamine; 2- [3- (3-aminophenylamino) -propenyl] -benzene-1,4-diamine; 3- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -N-ethylacrylamide; 2-thiazol-2-ylbenzene-1,4-diamine acid; 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (2,5-diaminobenzylidene) -hldrazide; 3'-fluoro-biphenyl-2,5-diamine; 2-propenyl-benzene-1,4-diamine; 2'-chloro-biphenyl-2,5-diamine; N-thiophen-3-ylmethylbenzene-1,4-diamine; / V- (3-furylmethyl) benzene-1,4-diamine; 4'-methoxy-biphenyl-2,5-diamine; N- (4-aminobenzyl) -benzene-1,4-diamine; 2-methyl-5 - [(1-H-pyrrol-2-ylmethyl) -amino] -phenol; 5 - [(furan-2-ylmethyl) -amino] -2-methylphenol; 5-isopropylamino-2-methylphenol hydrochloride; biphenyl-2,4,4'-triamine; 5- (4-aminophenyl) aminomethylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; 5-phenylaminomethylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; 2- [4-amino-2- (3,5-diaminobenzylamino) -phenoxy] -ethanol hydrochloride; 5- (3-aminophenyl) aminomethylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; N- (2-aminobenzyl) -benzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; N-furan-2-ylmethylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; 2 - [(3-aminophenylamino) -methyl] -phenol hydrochloride; 4-amino-2-propylaminomethylphenol hydrochloride; N-Benzo [1, 3] dioxol-5-ylmethylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; N- [4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -2 H -pyrrazol-3-yl] -3- (5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) -acrylamide hydrochloride; 4-amino-2- (isopropylamino-methyl) -phenol hydrochloride; 4-thiophen-3-ylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; 5-phenylaminomethylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; 5- (3-aminophenyl) aminomethylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; 4-thiophen-3-ylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; 2 ', 4'- hydrochloride diaminobiphenyl-4-ol; 5-cyclobutylamino-2-methylphenol; 5-cyclobutylamino-2-methyl phenol; 4-amino-2- (pyridin-3-ylaminomethyl) -phenol; 5- (3-aminophenyl) aminomethylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; 5-allylaminomethylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; N- (4-aminobenzyl) -benzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; N-benzylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; 3 - [(3-aminophenylamino) -methyl] -phenol hydrochloride; N- (4-methoxybenzyl) -benzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; N-thiophen-2-ylmethylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; 4-amino-2 - [(2-hydroxy-5-nitro-phenylamino) -methyl] -phenol hydrochloride; 2 ', 4'-diaminobiphenyl-4-ol hydrochloride; biphenyl-2,4,4'-triamine; 5- (4-aminophenyl) aminomethylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; 2- [4-amino-2- (3,5-diaminobenzylamino) -phenoxy] -ethanol hydrochloride; 5-allylaminomethylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; 5- (3-aminophenyl) aminomethylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; N- (4-aminobenzyl) -benzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; N-benzylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; 3 - [(3-aminophenylamino) -met-phenol hydrochloride; N- (2-aminobenzyl) -benzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; N- (4-methoxybenzyl) -benzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; N-furan-2-ylmethylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; 2 - [(3-aminophenylamino) -methyl] -phenol hydrochloride; N-thiophen-2-ylmethylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; N-Benzo [1, 3] dioxol-5-ylmethylbenzene-1,3-diamine hydrochloride; N- [4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -2H-pyrazol-3-yl] -3- (5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) -acrylamide hydrochloride; 4-amino-2-propylaminomethylphenol hydrochloride; 4-amino-2- (isopropylamino-methyl) -phenol hydrochloride; 4-amino-2 - [(2-hydroxy-5-nitro-phenylamino) -methyl] -phenol hydrochloride; 2-methyl-5 - [(1 -H-pyrrol-2-ylmethyl) -amino] -phenol; 5 - [(furan-2-ylmethyl) -amino] -2-methylphenol; 5-isopropylamino-2-methylphenol; 5-cyclobutylamino-2-methylphenol; 4-amino-2- (pyridin-3-ylaminomethyl) -phenol; and 5-cyclobutylamino-2-methylphenol. Preferred developers include: p-phenylenediamine derivatives such as 2-methylbenzene-1,4-diamine; benzene-1, 4-diamine; 1- (2,5-diaminophenol) -ethanol; 2- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -ethanol; N- (2-methoxyethyl) benzene-1,4-diamine; 2 - [(4-aminophenyl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) -aminoj-ethanol; 1- (2,5-diaminophenyl) ethane-1,2-diol; 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene; 1, 3- bs (N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (4-aminophenyl) amino) -2-propanol; 2,2 '- [1,2-ethanediyl-bis- (oxy-2,1-ethanediyloxy)] - bis-benzene-1,4-diamine; N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenedine; and mixtures of these; p-aminophenol derivatives such as 4-aminophenol, 4-methylaminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol; 1- (5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) -ethane-1,2-d-ol; 1-hydroxy-2,4-diaminobenzene; 1- (2'-hydroxyethyloxy) -2,4-d-aminobenzene; 4-amino-2-aminophenol; 2. 4- diamino-5-methylphenethol; 4-amino-1-hydroxy-2- (2'-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) benzene; 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxy-ethylamino) -benzene; 5-aminosalicylic acid and salts thereof; and mixtures of these; o-phenylenediamine derivatives such as: 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and salts thereof; o-aminophenol derivatives such as 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol, N- (4-amino-3-hydroxyphenyl) -acetamide; 2-amino-4-methylphenol; and mixtures of these; and heterocyclic derivatives such as pyrimidin-2,4,5,6-tetramine; 1-methyl-1 H-pyrazole-4,5-diamine; 2- (4,5-diamino-1 H-pyrazol-1-yl) ethanol; 1- (4-methylbenzyl) -1 H-pyrazole-4,5-diamine; 1- (benzyl) -1 H-pyrazole-4,5-diamine; N2, N2-dimethylpyridine-2,5-diamine; 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine; 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene; and 1-hydroxyethyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole sulfate; and mixtures of these. The most preferred developers include 2-methylbenzene-1,4-diamine; benzene-1, 4-diamine; N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine; 4-aminophenol; 4-methylaminophenol; 4-amino-3-methylphenol; 1-hydroxy-2,4-diaminobenzene; 2-aminophenol; 2-amino-5-methylphenol; 2-amino-6-methylphenol; 1-methyl-1 H-pyrazole-4,5-diamine; 1-hydroxyethyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole sulfate; 2- (4,5-diamino-1 H-pyrazol-1-yl) ethanol; and mixtures of these. Suitable coupling agents for use in the compositions described herein include, but are not limited to: phenols, resorcinol and naphthol derivatives such as naphthalene-1,7-diol, benzene-1,3-diol, 4-chlorobenzene- 1,3-diol, naphthalene-1-ol, 2-methylnaphthalene-1-ol, naphthalene-1,5-diol, naphthalene-2,7-diol, benzene-1,4-diol, 2-methylbenzene-1, 3-diol, 7-amino-4-hydroxynaphthalene-2-sulfonic acid, 2-isopropyl-5-methylphenol, 1, 2,3,4-tetrahydro-naphthalene-1, 5-diol, 2-chloro-benzene-1,3-diol, 4-hydroxynaphthalene-1-sulfonic acid, benzene-1, 2,3-triol, naphthalene 2,3-diol, 5-dichloro-2-methylbenzene-1,3-diol, 4,6-dichlorobenzene-1,3-diol, 2,3-dihydroxy- [1,4] naphthoquinone; and 1-acetoxy-2-methylnaphthalene; m-phenylenediamines such as 2,4-diaminophenol, benzene-1,3-diamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -ethanol, 2 - [(3-aminophenyl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino] -ethanol , 2-Mehylbenzene-1,3-diamine, 2 - [[2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -ethyl] - (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino] -ethanol, 4-. { 3 - [(2,4-diaminophenyl) oxy] -propoxy} benzene-1, 3-diamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenyl) -ethanol, 2- (3-amino-4-methoxy-phenylamino) -ethanol, 4- (2-amino-ethoxy) -benzene-1, 3-diamine, (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -acetic acid, 2- [2,4-diamino-5- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -phenoxy] -ethanol, 4-ethoxy-6-methylbenzene-1,3-diamine , 2- (2,4-diamino-5-methyl-phenoxy) -ethanol, 4,6-dimethoxy-benzene-1,3-diamine, 2- [3- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -2-methyl-phenylamino] -ethanol, 3- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propan-1 -ol, N- [3- (dimethylamino) phenyl] urea, 4-methoxy-6-methylbenzene-1,3-diamine, 4-fluoro-6 -methylbenzene-1,3-diamine, 2- ( { 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,6-dimethoxyphenyl} -amino) ethanol, 3- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane -1,2-diol, 2- [2-amino-4- (methylamino) -phenoxy] ethanol, 2 - [(5-amino-2-ethoxy-phenyl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino] -ethanol, 2 - [(3-aminophenyl) amino] ethanol, 2,4-diamino-5- (2'-hydroxyethyloxy) toluene; N, N-dimethyl-3-ureidoaniline; N- (2-aminoethyl) benzene-1,3-diamine, 4-. { [(2,4-diaminophenol) oxy] methoxy} -benzene-1, 3-diamine, 1-methyl-2,6-bis (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene; and 2,4-dimethoxybenzene-1,3-diamine; m-aminophenols such as: 3-aminophenol, 2- (3-hydroxy-4-methyl-phenylamino) -acetamide, 2- (3-hydroxyphenylamino) -acetamide, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -2-methylphenol, 5-amino-2,4-dichlorophenol, 3-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -phenol, 2 -chloro-5- (2,2,2-trifluoroethylamino) -phenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 3-cyclopentylaminophenol, 5 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-2- methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 3- (dimethylamino) phenol, 3- (diethylamino) phenol, 5-amino-4-fluoro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-ethoxy-2- methylphenol, 3-amino-2,4-dichlorophenol, 3 - [(2-methoxyethyl) amino] phenol, 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] phenol, 5-amino-2-ethylphenol, 5-amino-2- methoxyphenol, 5 - [(3-hydroxypropyl) amino] -2-methylphenol, 3 - [(3-hydroxy-2-methylphenyl) -amino] propane-1,2-diol, 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methylphenol; 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-benzene; 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane; 1-hydroxy-2-methyl-5-amino-6-chlorobenzene; and heterocyclic derivatives such as 3,4-dihydro-2H-1,4-benzoxazin-6-ol, 4-methyl-2-phenyl-2,4-dihydro-3H-pyrazol-3-one, 6-methoxyquinoline-8 -amine, 4-methylpyridin-2,6-diol, 2,3-dihydro-1,4-benzodioxin-5-ol, 1,3-benzodioxol-5-ol, 2- (1,3-benzodioxol-5-) ilamino) ethanol, 3,4-dimethylpyridin-2,6-diol, 5-chloropyridin-2,3-diol, 2,6-dimethoxypyridine-3,5-diamine, 1,3-benzodioxol-5-amine, 2- . { [3,5-diamino-6- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -pyridin-2-yl] oxy} -ethanol, 1 H -indole-4-ol, 5-amino-2,6-dimethoxypyridin-3-ol, 1 H -indole-5,6-diol, 1 H -indole-7-ol, 1 H-indole -5-ol, 1 H-indol-6-ol, 6-bromo-1, 3-benzodioxol-5-ol, 2-aminopyridin-3-ol, pyridine-2,6-diamine, 3 - [(3, 5-diaminopyridin-2-yl) oxy] propane-1,2-diol, 5 - [(3,5-diaminopyridin-2-yl) oxy] pentane-1,3-diol, 1 H-indole-2,3 -dione- indolin-5,6-diol, 3,5-dimethoxypyridine-2,6-diamine, 6-methoxypyridine-2,3-diamine; 3,4-dihydro-2H-1,4-benzoxazin-6-amine; 4-hydroxy-N-methylindol, 1 H-5-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1, 5-b] -1, 2,4- triazole, 2,6-dimethyl [3,2-c] -1, 2,4-triazole, 6-methylpyrazolo- [1,5-a] benzimidazole, 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3 , 4-dimethylpyridine, 5-methylpyrazolo [5,1-e] -1, 2,3-triazole, 5-methyl-6-chloropyrazolo [5,1-e] -1, 2,3, -triazole, - phenylpyrazolo [5,1-e] -1,3,3-triazole and its added salts, tosylate of "I H-2,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1, 5-b] -1, 2,4-triazole, 7,8-dicyano-4-methylimidazolo- [3,2-a] imidazole, 2,7-dimethylpyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidin-5-one, 2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine -7-one, and 2-methyl-5-methoxymethyl-pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidin-7-one; 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine; and 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine; 1-phenyl-3 -methyl-5-pyrazolone-2,4-dihydro-5,2-phenyl-3H-pyrazol-3-one Preferred coupling agents include phenol, resorcinol, and naphthol derivatives such as naphthalene-1,7-diol , benzene-1, 3-diol, 4-chlorobenzene-1,3-diol, naphthalene-1-ol, 2-methylnaphthalene-1-ol, naphthalene-1,5-diol, naphthalene-2,7-diol, benzene - 1,4-diol, 2-methylbenzene-1,3-diol, and 2-isopropyl-5-methylphenol; 1,4-trihydroxybenzene; 1-acetoxy-2- methylnaphthalene; and mixtures of these; m-phenylenediamine derivatives such as benzene-1,3-diamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -ethanol, 4-. { 3 - [(2,4-diaminophenyl) oxy] -propoxy} benzene-1, 3-diamine, 2- (3-amino-4-methoxy-phenylamino) -ethanol, 2- [2,4-diamino-5- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -phenoxy] -ethanol, and 3- ( 2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propan-1-ol; 2,4-diamino-5- (2'-hydroxyethyloxy) toluene; N, N-Dimethyl-3-ureidoaniline; 2,4-diamino-5-fluorotoluene hydrate sulfate; 1-methyl-2,6-bis (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene; and mixtures of these; m-aminophenol derivatives such as 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -2-methylphenol, and 3-amino-2-methylphenol; 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene; 1-hydroxy-3-amino-2,4-dichlorobenzene; 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane; 1-hydroxy-2-methyl-5-amino-6-chlorobenzene; 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol; and mixtures of these; and heterocyclic derivatives such as 3,4-dihydro-2H-1,4-benzoxazin-6-ol, 4-methyl-2-phenyl-2,4-dihydro-3H-pyrazol-3-one, 1,3-benzodioxole -5-ol, 1, 3-benzodioxol-5-amine, 1 H-indol-4-ol, 1 H-indole-5,6-diol, 1 H-indol-7-ol, 1 H-indole-5 -ol, 1 H-indol-6-ol, 1 H-indole-2,3-dione-pyridine-2,6-diamine, 2-aminopyridin-3-ol, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 1 H- 5-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylprazolo [1, 5-b] -1, 2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl [3 , 2-c] -1, 2,4-triazole, 6-methylpyrazolo- [1,5-a] benzimidazole; 2,6-dihydroxypyridine; 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethyl-pyridine; 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine; 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine; 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine; 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine; 1-phenyl-3-methyl-5-pyrazolon-2,4-dihydro-5,2-phenyl-3H-pyrazol-3-one; and mixtures of these. The most preferred coupling agents include benzene-1,3-diol; 4-chlorobenzene-1,3-diol; 2-methylbenzene-1,3-diol; benzene-1,3-diamine; 3-aminophenol; 5-amino-2-methylphenol; 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene; 4-methyl-2-phenyl-2,4-dihydro-3H-pyrazol-3-one; 2-aminopyridin-3-ol; 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one; 1-phenyl-3-methyl-5-pyrazolon-2,4-dihydro-5,2-phenyl-3H-pyrazol-3-one, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred dyes for use herein include p-phenylenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 2,5-diaminotoluene sulfate, p- methylaminophenol,?,? - bis-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine sulfate, 4-amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, m-aminophenol, 4-amino-20-hydroxy toluene, resorcinol, methylresorcinol, naphthol, 2-amino- 3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole sulfate, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethyl-phenol, m-phenylenediamine sulfate, 1-phenyl-3-methyl- 5-pyrazolone, 1-hydroxyethyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole sulfate, 1-acetoxy-2-methylnaphthalene and mixtures thereof. The hair coloring compositions of the present invention can include non-oxidative hair dyes, i.e. direct dyes that can be used alone or in combination with the oxidative dyes described above. Suitable direct dyes include azo or anthraquinone dyes and nitro derivatives of the benzene series and or melanin precursors and mixtures thereof. These direct dyes are particularly useful for providing tone modification or enhancements. In fact, any molecule capable of imparting a color to the hair can be used. In this respect, molecules which contain one or more of the following entities are particularly important: indigoids, polymethines, phthalocyanine, and aryl carbons. These and other materials capable of imparting color, as described in "Chromic Phenomena" (Chromic Phenomena) of P.BamfieId (ISBN 0-85404-474-4, incorporated by reference) may be applied in the present invention. Of these materials, the dyes described in U.S. Pat. no. 2004/0078906 and in particular the cationic azo dyes. The hair dye compositions of the present invention will generally comprise from about 0.001% to about 10% dyes. For example, compositions that provide low intensity dyeing such as natural blond to light brown tones generally comprise from about 0.001% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 2%, more preferably about 0.2. % to about 1% by weight of the dyeing compositions of precursors and agents coupling. Darker shades such as chestnuts and blacks generally comprise from 0.001% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.05% to about 7% by weight, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% of precursors and agents coupling.
Radical scavenger In accordance with the present invention the compositions further comprise a source of radical scavenger. As used herein the term radical scavenger refers to species that can react with a carbonate radical to convert the carbonate radical by means of a series of reactions to a less reactive species, i.e., a radical scavenger of carbonate. Without theoretical limitations of any kind, it is believed that the ability of the radical scavenger to convert the carbonate radical (as described above) depends on the energy of the charge transfer reaction as shown below: (The calculation of the energy of the charge transfer reaction is detailed below.) Radical scrubber + C03 '"Radical scrubber" "" + C032' where the energy of the reaction is defined by: - ?? G = AHf (products) - AHf (reactants) = ??, (debugger *** + ??, (CO32 - ??, (debugger) - ??, (CO ^ In accordance with the present invention, radical scavengers suitable for use herein have a reaction energy of about 0 kcal / mol to 14 kcal / mol, preferably from about 1.5 kcal / mol to 9 kcal / mol. Radical scavengers suitable for use herein include the compounds according to the general formula: (I): R1-Y-C (H) (R3) -R4- (C (H) (R5) -Y-R6) n wherein Y is NR2, O, or S, preferably NR2, n is 0 to 2, and wherein R4 is monovalent or divalent and is selected from: (a) Aliphatic, heteroaliphatic, or heteroolefinic alkyl, mono alkyl or polyunsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched heteroalkyl, (b) substituted or unsubstituted aliphatic, aryl, or heterocyclic monocyclic or polycyclic systems, or (c) substituted or unsubstituted mono, poly, or perfluoroalkyl systems of (a), (b) and (c) comprising from 1 to 12 carbon atoms and from 0 to 5 heteroatoms selected from O, S, N, P, and Si; and wherein R4 can be connected to R3 or R5 to create a ring of 5, 6 or 7 members and wherein R1, R2, R3, R5, and R6 are monovalent and are independently selected from: (a), (b) and (c) described above, or H. Preferably, R4 is selected from: (a) aliphatic, heteroaliphatic, or heteroolefinic systems of alkylo, substituted or unsubstituted heteroalkyl, linear or branched, (b) mono or polycyclic aliphatic systems, aryl, or substituted or unsubstituted heterocyclics, or (c) substituted or unsubstituted mono, poly or perfluoroalkyl systems; more preferably R4 is selected from (a) aliphatic or heteroaliphatic alkyl, heteroalkyl, substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched systems, (b) aryl systems, or substituted or unsubstituted heterocyclics, or (c) substituted or unsubstituted mono, poly, or perfluoroalkyl systems; more preferably linear or branched alkyl or substituted or unsubstituted heteroalkyl systems. Preferably, the R4 systems of (a), (b), and (c), described above comprise from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6, more preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and from 0 to 3 heteroatoms; preferably from 0 to 2 heteroatoms; most preferably from 0 to 1 heteroatoms. Where the systems contain heteroatoms, preferably they comprise 1 heteroatom. Preferred heteroatoms include O, S, and N; more preferred are O, and N; and most preferred is O. Preferably, R1, R2, R3, R5, and R6 are independently selected from any of the systems defined for R4 above, and H. In alternative embodiments, any of the groups R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, and R6 are substituted. Preferably, the substituent (s) are selected from: (a) the group of monovalent substituents with carbon bonds comprising: (i) aliphatic, heteroaliphatic or heteroolefinic alkyl, or mono- or polyunsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, linear alkyl systems or branched, (ii) aliphatic mono, polycyclic, aryl, or heterocyclic, substituted or unsubstituted, or (iii) mono, or substituted or unsubstituted perfluoroalkyl systems; said systems of (i), (ii) and (iii) comprise from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and from 0 to 5 heteroatoms selected from O, S, N, P and Si; (b) the group of monovalent substituents with S bonds that is formed by SA \ SCN, S02A1, S03A \ SSA \ SOA \ S02NA1A2, SNA1 A2 and SONA1A2; (c) the group of monovalent substituents with O-links comprising OA1, OCN and ONA A2; (d) the group of monovalent substituents with N-bonds, comprising NA1 A2, (NA1A2A3) +, NC, NA1OA2, NA1SA2, NCO, NCS, N02, N = NA1, N = NOA \ NA1CN, NA1 NA2 A3; (e) the group of monovalent substituents comprising COOA1, CON3) CONA12) CONA1COA2, C (= NA1) NA1A2, CHO, CHS, CN, NC and X; and (f) the group comprising monovalent fluoroalkyl substituents comprising mono, poly or perfluoroalkyl systems comprising from 1 to 12 carbon atoms and from 0 to 4 heteroatoms. For groups (b) to (e), described above, A1, A2, and A3 are monovalent and are independently selected from: (1) H, (2) aliphatic, heteroaliphatic, or heteroolefin alkyl, or mono alkyl or polyunsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, linear or branched, (3) aliphatic mono- or polycyclic, aryl, or heterocyclic, substituted or unsubstituted systems, or (4) mono- or substituted or unsubstituted perfluoroalkyl systems; said systems of (2), (3) and (4) comprise from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and from 0 to 5 heteroatoms selected from O, S, N, P and Si; and wherein X is a halogen selected from the group comprising F, Cl, Br and I. Preferred substituents for use herein include those having a Hammett Sigma Para (s?) value of -0.65 to +0.75, preference from -0.4 to +0.5. The Hammett Sigma values are described in Advanced Organic Chemistry - Reactions, Mechanisms and Structure (Advanced Organic Chemistry - Reactions, mechanisms and structure) (Jerry March, 5th ed. (2001) on pages 368-375). Without theoretical limitations of any kind, it is believed that substituents having sigma values for the selected ranges, when substituted in R1 and / or R2, can improve the toxicological profile without unduly adding an unfavorable increase in molecular weight that can interfere with the ability of the molecule to penetrate the hair shaft. In the following Table A some preferred substituents and their Hammett Sigma Para values are shown. Other substituents and their values are shown in March's document, on page 370.
Table A Preferably, the radical scavengers defined above have a pKa of more than 7 to prevent the protonation of nitrogen. Alternative radical scavengers suitable for use herein are the compounds according to the general Formula (II): wherein R1 (R2, R3, R4 and R5 are independently selected from H, COO'fvT, Cl, Br, S03"M +, N02, OCH3, OH or a primary or secondary alkyl of C1 to C10 and M is H or metal Alkaline Preferably, the radical scavengers described above have a pKa of more than 8.5 to ensure protonation of the hydroxyl group Other radical scavengers suitable for use herein include those selected from the group (III) benzylamine, imidazole , di-tert-butylhydroxytoluene, hydroquinone, guanine, pyrazine, piperidine, morpholine, methylmorpholine, 2-methyloxyethylamine, and mixtures thereof Preferred radical scavengers according to the present invention are selected from the types of alkanolamines, amino sugars, amino acids, amino acid esters and mixtures of these. Particularly preferred compounds are: monoethanolamine, 3-amino-1-propanol, 4-amino-1-butanol, 5-amino-1-pentanol, 1-amino-2-propanol, 1-amino-2-butanol, 1- amino-2-pentanol, 1-amino-3-pentanol, 1-amino-4-pentanol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane 1,2-diol, glucosamine, N-acetylglucosamine, glycine, arginine, lysine, proline, glutamine, histidine, sarcosine, serine, glutamic acid, tryptophan, and mixtures thereof, and salts such as potassium, sodium and ammonium of these and mixtures of these. Especially preferred compounds are glycine, lysine, serine, 2-methoxyethylamine, glucosamine, glutamic acid, morpholine, piperidine, ethylamine, 3-amino-1-propanol and mixtures thereof. Radical scavengers according to the present invention preferably have a molecular weight of less than about 500, preferably less than about 300, more preferably less than about 250, to facilitate the penetration of the radical scavenger into the hair fiber . The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 7% by weight of the radical scavenger. Preferably, the radical scavenger is included in an amount such that the weight ratio of the radical scavenger to the carbonate ion is from 2: 1 to 1: 4. The radical scavenger is preferably selected so that it is not a species identical to the alkalizing agent. In accordance with one embodiment of the present invention the radical scavenger may be formed in place in the hair dyeing compositions before applying to the hair fibers.
Thickeners The composition of the present invention optionally may comprise in addition at least 0.01% of thickeners. The thickeners preferably comprise an amount sufficient for the viscosity of the composition to be from about 1 Pa.s to 40 Pa.s (1000 to 40,000 cP) at 26 ° C to provide a composition that can be easily applied to the hair without dripping. Thickeners suitable for use herein may be selected, for example, from: (i) Associative thickeners; (ii) crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers; (iii) crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and (C1-C6) alkyl acrylate; (iv) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of the ester and amide type; (v) ammonium acrylate homopolymers and copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide; (vi) polysaccharides; and (vii) C12-C30 fatty alcohols. (i) As used herein, the term "associative thickener" means an amphiphilic thickener comprising both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, for example, at least one C8-C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit. Representative associative thickeners which can be used are the associative polymers selected from: (i) Nonionic amphipic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit; (ii) anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one chain unit grease; (iii) cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit; and (iv) amphiphilic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit; Non-ionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit may be chosen, for example, from: (1) Celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; for example: hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, and in which the alkyl groups are, for example, C8-C22, such as the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS ( C16 alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, and the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel, and celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether) sold by the company Amerchol. (2) Hydroxypropyl guar gums modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the Lamberti company, and the Miracare XC95-3 products (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205 -1 (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhodia Chimie. (3) Polyether urethanes comprising at least one fatty chain, such as C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl groups, for example, the Elfacos T 210 and Elfacos T 212 products sold by the Akzo company or the Aculyn 44 and Aculyn 46 products sold by the company Rohm & Haas. (4) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic monomers of fatty chains, examples which may be mentioned include: the products Antaron V216 and Ganex V216 (hexadecene copolymer / vinylpyrrolidone) sold by the company ISP, the products Antaron V220 and Ganex V220 (copolymer eicosene / vinylpyrrolidone) sold by the ISP company (5) Copolymers of C1-62 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the oxyethylenated methacrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208. (6) ) Copolymers of hydrophilic acrylates or methacrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the copolymer of lauryl methacrylate / polyethylene glycol methacrylate. The amphiphilic anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit can be chosen, for example, from those comprising at least one fatty chain allyl ether unit and at least one hydrophilic unit which it comprises an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer unit, for example, a vinylcarboxylic acid unit and furthermore, for example, those selected from units derived from acrylic acids, methacrylic acids and mixtures thereof, wherein the fatty chain allyl ether unit corresponds to monomer of the following formula: CH2 = C (R1) CH20BnR (I) wherein R1 is selected from H and CH3, B is an ethyleneoxy radical, n is selected from zero and integers ranging from 1 to 100, R is selected from hydrocarbon-based radicals selected from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl, which comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and also, for example, from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even more, for example, from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. In one embodiment, a unit of Formula (I) is, for example, a unit in which R1 can be H, n can be equal to 10 and R can be a stearyl radical (C18). Amphiphilic anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, in accordance with an emulsion polymerization process, in European patent EP-0 216 479 B2. In one embodiment, the amphiphilic anionic polymers are, for example, polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl methacrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of allylic ether of fatty chain of Formula (I), and from 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenically unsaturated monomer, for example, diallyl phthalate, allyl methacrylate, divinylbenzene, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide. Examples of these polymers are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and stearyl ether of polyethylene glycol (10 EO) (steareth-10), such as those sold by the company Ciba under the names Saleare SC 80 and Saleare SC 90, which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and allyl ether of steareth-10 (40/50/10). The anionic amphiphilic polymers can be further chosen, for example, from those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinically unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of the type such as an alkyl ester (C 10 -C 30) of a carboxylic acid unsaturated The hydrophilic olefinically unsaturated carboxylic acid type unit corresponds to, for example, the monomer of the following Formula (II): HiC = C - C - H ¾J or (") wherein R1 is selected from H, CH3, and C2H5, ie units of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and ethacrylic acid. And the hydrophobic unit of the type as an alkyl ester (C 10 -C 30) of an unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponding to, for example, the monomer of the following Formula (III): H «C === C - C - S i" o (i ") wherein R1 is selected from H, CH3, and C2H5 (ie, acrylate, methacrylate and ethacrylate units) and selected, for example, from H (acrylate units) and CH3 (methacrylate units), R2 is selected of C10-C30 alkyl radicals, for example, the C12-C22 alkyl radical. Examples of (C 10 -C 30) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids include lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, acrylate isodecyl, and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, sodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate. Amphiphilic anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, in accordance with US Pat. num. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949. Representative amphiphilic anionic polymers which can be used can be chosen in addition to polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i) Acrylic acid, an ester of the following Formula (IV): wherein R1 is selected from H and CH3, R2 is selected from C10-C30 alkyl radicals, such as alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and a crosslinking agent; such as polymers derived from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0% to 6% by weight of monomer of polymerizable crosslinking, or polymers derived from 98% to 96% by weight of the acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of monomer of polymerizable crosslinking; or (ii) Acrylic acid and lauryl methacrylate, such as the polymers formed from 66% by weight of acrylic acid and 34% by weight of lauryl methacrylate. The crosslinking agent may be a monomer comprising a group (V): with at least one other polymerizable group whose unsaturated bonds are not conjugated with each other. Mention may be made, for example, of polyallyl ethers such as polyallyl sucrose and polyallyl pentaerythriol. Among the polymers mentioned above, there may be mentioned, for example, the products sold by the company Noveon under the tradenames Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, and also, for example, Pemulen TR1, and the product sold by the company S.E.P.C. with the name Coatex SX. Suitable anionic amphiphilic polymers of fatty chains include, for example, the copolymer of methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / alkyldimethyl-eta-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by the company Amerchol. The cationic amphiphilic polymers used are selected, for example, from quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates comprising amino side groups. The quaternized cellulose derivatives are selected, for example, from quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, hydroxyethylcelluloses. modified quaternized with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures of these. Quaternized and non-quaternized polyacrylates comprising amino side groups having, for example, hydrophobic groups, such as steareth 20 (polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20)) and alkyl (C10-C30) PEG-20 itaconate. Alkyl radicals produced from quaternized celluloses and quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses mentioned above comprise, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Aryl radicals are selected from, for example, phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl and anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses comprising C8-C30 fatty chains are the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C18 alkyl) ) sold by the Amerchol company, and Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C18 alkyl) products sold by the Croda company. Examples of polyacrylates comprising amino side chains are Structure Plus from the company National Starch. Among the amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit, mention may be made, for example, of the copolymers of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid / C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate, wherein the Alkyl radical is, for example, a stearyl radical. (ii) Among the crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers which may be mentioned are those crosslinked with an allyl ether alcohol of the series of sugars, such as the products with the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company Noveon or the products sold under the names Synthalen M, Synthalen L and Synthalen K by the company 3V Sigma. (ii) The crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and C 1 -C 6 alkyl acrylate can be chosen from crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion comprising 38% of active material marketed, for example, with the name Viscoatex 538C by the company Coatex, and cross-linked copolymers of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion comprising 28% of active material sold under the name Aculyn 33 by the company Rohm & Haas. Cross-linked copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate include an aqueous dispersion comprising 30% of active material manufactured and sold under the name Carbopol Aqua SF-1 by the company Noveon. (iv) Among non-ionic homopolymers or copolymers comprising ethylenically unsaturated monomers of the ester and / or amide type, there can be mentioned the products sold under the names: Cyanamer P250, by the company Cytec (polyacrylamide); PMMA MBX-8C by the company US Cosmetics (copolymer of methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate); Acryloid B66 by the company Rohm & Haas (butyl methacrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer); BPA 500 by the company Kobo (polymethyl methacrylate). (v) The ammonium acrylate homopolymers that may be mentioned include the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by the company Hoechst. The copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide include the product sold under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 marketed by the company Hoechst (which are described and prepared according to document FR-2 416 723 and US Pat. U.S. Nos. 2,798,053 and 2,923,692). (vi) The polysaccharides are selected, for example, from glycans, modified or unmodified starches (such as those derived from, for example, cereals, e.g., wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables, e.g., yellow pea , and tubers, by example, potato or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses), mornings, xylans, lignins, arabanas, glactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosan, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylanas, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenan, agar gums, glycosaminoglycans, succinoglycans, gum arabic, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, and nonionic derivatives thereof ( hydroxypropyl guar) and xanthan gums, and mixtures thereof. For example, suitable polysaccharides are described in the publication "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Kirk-Othmer, third edition 1982, volume 3, pgs. 896-900, and volume 15, p. 439-458, in the document "Polymers in Nature" by E. A. MacGregor and C. T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & amp; amp;; Sons, chapter 6, pgs. 240-328,1980, and in the publication "Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", edited by Roy L. Whistler, second edition, published by Academic Press Inc., the content of these three publications are incorporated in their entirety as a reference. For example, starches, guar gums and cellulose and derivatives thereof can be used. Suitable starches include, for example, macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising elementary entities which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these entities and their assembly makes it possible to differentiate between amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, and also their degree of polymerization, can vary as a function of the botanical origin of the starches. The botanical origin of the starch molecules used can be of cereals or tubers. In this way, the starches are you can select from, for example, corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, and pea starch. In general, the starches are in the form of a white powder insoluble in cold water and having an elementary particle size ranging from 3 to 100 microns. The starches may optionally be C1-C6 hydroxyalkylated or C1-C6 adylated (as acetylated). The starches may also have been subjected to heat treatments. The dialmidon phosphates or compounds rich in dialmidon phosphate, for example, the products sold with the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropylated cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava dialmidon phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure ZEA from National Starch (hydroxypropylated corn starch phosphate), Structure XL from National Starch (hydroxypropylated distarch phosphate) can also be used. Guar gums can be modified or not modified. Unmodified guar gums are, for example, products sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and with the names Meyro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C by the company Meyhall. Modified non-ionic guar gums are, for example, modified with C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl groups. Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, there can be mentioned, for example, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known in the industry and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, such as propylene oxides, with guar gum to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups. The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present in guar gum, can, for example, vary from 0.4 to 1.2.
These non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are marketed, for example, under the tradenames Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Rhodia Chimie (Meyhall) or with the name Galactasol 4H4FD2 by the company Aqualon. Suitable celluloses include, for example, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcelluloses, such as the products sold under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel LHF, Klucel MF and Klucel G by the company Aqualon. (v) The C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohols are selected from, for example, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol or mixtures thereof. When fatty acids are used as thickeners, at least one additional surfactant with an HLB value greater than about 6 is commonly included to form bilayers with fatty alcohols. The bilayer structures include a gel network phase wherein parallel bilayers of fatty alcohols are bulked by water to form semi-solid creams, and vesicle dispersions wherein the bilayers of fatty alcohols are bent into approximately spherical unilamellar or multilamellar aggregates. For use herein, salt tolerant thickeners are preferred. A non-exclusive list of salt tolerant thickeners suitable for use herein includes xanthan, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, scleroglucan, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose (available commercially as Aquacote®), hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol®), carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxybutylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose (Klucel®), hydroxyethylethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol® Plus 330), N-vinylpyrrolidone (Povidone®), acrylates / itaconate copolymer of ceteth-20 (Structure® 3001), hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Structure® ZEA), polyethoxylated urethanes or polycarbamyl polyglycol ester (for example, PEG-150 / decyl / SMDI = Aculyn® 44 copolymer, PEG-150 / stearyl copolymer SMDI = Aculyn 46®), copolymer of trihydroxystearin acrylates (Thixcin®) (for example, Aculyn® 33) or hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymers (eg, acrylates / methacrylate copolymer of steareth -20 = Aculyn® 22), and Crodafos CES ®.
Conditioning agent The compositions of the present invention may comprise or be used in combination with a composition comprising a conditioning agent.
Conditioning agents suitable for use herein are selected from silicone materials, aminosilicones, fatty alcohols, polymeric resins, carboxylic acid and polyol esters, cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, insoluble oils and materials derived from oils and mixtures thereof. Other materials include mineral oils and other oils such as glycerin and sorbitol. The conditioning agent will generally be used at levels of from about 0.05% to about 20%, by weight of the composition, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 10%, even with greater preference from about 0.2% to about 2%. Particularly useful conditioning materials are cationic polymers. Conditioners of the cationic polymer type can be chosen from those already known to those experienced in the industry as those which improve at least one of the cosmetic properties of the keratin fibers treated with a cosmetic composition. The cationic polymers can be selected from the units comprising at least one amine group selected from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine groups which can be part of the main polymer chain, or can be carried by a side substituent attached directly to the chain main polymer. These Cationic polymers usually have a number average molecular mass ranging from 500 to 5 X 106, or more preferably from 1000 to 3 X 106. Polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium polymers that may be used include, but are not limited to a: 1) Homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters and amides. The copolymers of these polymers can also comprise at least one unit derived from comonomers which can be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, acrylamides, diacetone, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with at least one group selected from lower alkyl (C 1 - C4), acrylic and methacrylic acids and esters of these, vinyl lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters. Examples of these polymers include: Acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate copolymers, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as Polquaternium-5, such as the products sold under the names Reten 210, Reten 220, Reten 230, Reten 240, Reten 1104, Reten 1105, Reten 1006 by the company Hercules and erquat 5, Merquat 5 SF by the company Nalco. Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-28, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat HS-100 by the company International Specialty Products (ISP, for its acronym in English). Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates or methacrylates, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as Polquaternium-11, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat 440, Gafquat 734, Gafquat 755, Gafquat 755N by the company International Specialty products (ISP), and Luviquat PQ1 1 PM by the company BASF and Polyquat-1 1 SL by the company Sino Lion. Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and methacryloylaminopropyl lauryldimonium chloride, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-55, such as the products sold under the name Styleze W-20 by the company International Specialty Products (ISP). Copolymers of acrylic acid, acrylamide and methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-53, such as the products sold under the name Merquat 2003 by the company Nalco. Copolymers of dimethylaminopropyl acrylate (DMAPA), acrylic acid and acrylonitriles and diethyl sulfate, examples of which include polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-31, such as the products sold under the name Hypan QT100 by the company Lipo. Copolymers of acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamide sulfonate, and dimethylaminopropylacrylate (DMAPA), examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-43, such as the products sold under the name Bozequat 4000 by the company Clairant. Copolymers of acrylic acid, methylacrylate and methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-47, such as the products sold under the name Merquat 2001 and Merquat 2001 N marketed by Nalco. Copolymers of methacryloyl ethyl betaine, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate and methacryloyl ethyl trimethylammonium chloride, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-48, such as the products sold with the name Plascize L-450 by the company Goo Chemcial. Copolymers of acrylic acid, diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium 39, such as the products sold under the name Merquat 3330 and Merquat 3331 by the company Nalco. Other examples include the copolymers of methacrylamide methacrylamido-propyltrimonium and methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium chloride and their derivatives, either homo or copolymerized with other monomers, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as: polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13 polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, such as the products sold under the name Rohagit KF 720 F by the company Rohm, polyquaternium-30, such as the products sold under the name Mexomere PX by the company Chimex, polyquaternium-33 , polyquaternium-35, polyquatemium-36, such as the products sold under the name Plex 3074 L by the company Rhon, polyquaternium 45, such as the products sold under the name Plex 3073L by the company Rohn, polyquaternium 49, such as the products sold under the name Plascize L-440 by the company Goo Chemicals, polyquaternium 50 such as the products sold under the name re Plascize L-441 by the company Goo Chemicals, polyquaternium-52. 2) Cationic polysaccharides, such as cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides there may be mentioned, for example, the cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups and cationic cellulose copolymers or the cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums. Examples include, but are not limited to: Copolymers of hydroxyethylcelluloses and diallyldimethylammonium chlorides, whose examples include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternlum-4, such as the products sold under the name Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch. Copolymers of hydroxyethylcelluloses and a substituted trimethylammonium epoxide, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-10, such as the products sold under the name AEC polyquaternium-10 by the company A &E Connock, Catinal C-100 Catinal HC-35 Catinal HC-100 Catinal HC-200 Catinal LC-100 Catinal LC-200 by the company Toho, Celquat SC-240C Celquat SC-230M, by the company National Starch, Dekaquat 400, Dekaquat 3000 by the company Dekker, Leogard GP by the company Akzo Nobel, RITA Polyquta 400 RITA, Polyquta 3000 by the company RITA, polymer UCARE JR-125 polymer UCARE JR-400 polymer UCARE JR-30M polymer UCARE LK polymer UCARE LR 400 polymer UCARE LR 30M by the company Amerchol. Copolymers of substituted hydroxyethylcelluloses and epoxides of lauryl dimethyl ammonium, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-24, such as the products sold under the name Quatrisoft polymer LM-200 by the company Amerchol. Hydroxypropyl guar derivatives, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Catinal CG-100, Catinal CG-200 by the Toho company, guar COSMEDIA C-261 N , guar COSMEDIA C-261 N, guar COS EDIA C-261 N by the company Cognis, DiaGum P 5070 by the company Freedom Chemical Diamalt, N-Hance Cationic Guar by the company Hercules / Aqualon, Hi-Care 1000, Jaguar C- 17, Jaguar C-2000, Jaguar C-13S, Jaguar C-14S, Jaguar Excel by the company Rhodia, Kiprogum CW, Kiprogum NGK by the company Nippon Starch.
Hydroxypropyl derivatives of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, examples of which include polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium, such as the products sold under the name Jaguar C-162 by the company Rhodia. 3) The polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Among the derivatives, for example, adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylenetriamine may be mentioned. 4) The polymers obtained by the reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two groups of primary amines and at least one secondary amine group with a decarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acids and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. Non-exhaustive examples of these derivatives include adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine. 5) Dialkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, among which polymers may be mentioned: dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-6, such as the products sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco , Mirapol 100 company Rhodia, Rheocare CC6 company Cosmetic Rheologies, AEC polyquaternium-6 company A & E Connock, Agequat 400 by the company CPS, Conditioner P6 by the company 3V Inc., Flocare C106 by the company SNF, Genamin PDAC by the company Clariant, Mackernium 006 by the company McIntyre. Copolymers of acrylamides and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride monomers, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-7, such as the products sold under the name AEC polyquaternium-7 by the company A &E Connock, Agequat-5008, Agequat C-505 by the company CPS, Conditioner P7 by the company 3V Inc. Flocare C 107 by the company SNF Mackernium 007, Mackernium 007S by the company Mclntyre, ME Polymer 09W by Toho company, Merquat 550, Merquat 2200, Merquat S company Nalco, Mirapol 550 company Rhodia, Rheocare CC7, Rheocare CCP7 company Cosmetic Rheologies, Saleare HSP-7, Saleare SC10, Saleare Super 7 company Ciba . Copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chlorides and acrylic acids, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-22, such as the products sold under the name Merquat 280 and Merquat 295 by the company Nalco. 6) Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units corresponding to [-N + (R1) (R2) - A1 - N + (R3) (R4) - B1 -] [2X-], in which R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, are selected from aliphatic, alicyclic and arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and between lower hydroxyalkylaiphatic radicals, or R1, R2, R3 and R4, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, optionally heterocycles comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R1, R2, R3 and R4, are selected from substituted linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radicals with at least one selected group of nitrile, ester, acyl and amide groups and groups of -CO-O-R5-D and -CO-NH-R5-D wherein R5 is selected from alkylene groups and D is selected from quaternary ammonium groups. A1 and B1, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear and branched, saturated or unsaturated polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms. The polymethylene groups may comprise, be attached to or interspersed in the main ring, at least one selected entity of aromatic rings, oxygen and sulfur atoms and sulfoxide groups, sulfone disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amido and ester, and X- is an anion derived from inorganic and organic acids. D is selected from a glycol residue, a bis-secondary diamine residue, a bis-primary diamine residue, or a ureylene group. Examples of these include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as hexadimethrine chloride, wherein R1, R2, R3 and R4 are each methyl radicals, A1 is (CH2) 3 and B1 is (CH2) 6 and X = Cl. Other examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-34 wherein R1 and R2 are ethyl radicals and R3 and R4 are methyl radicals and A1 is (CH2) 3 and B1 is (CH2) 3 and X = Br , such as the products sold under the name Mexomere PAX by the company Chimax. 7) polyquaternium ammonium polymers comprising repeating units of the formula [-N + (R6) (R7) - (CH2) r-NH-CO- (CH2) q- (CO) t-NH- (CH2) s- N + (R8) (R9) -A -] [2X-], in which R6, R7, R8 and R9 which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom and a methyl, ethyl, propyl, a- hydroxyethyl, α-hydroxypropyl, and radicals of -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2) pOH, wherein p is equal to 0 or an integer ranging from 1 to 6, wherein R 6, R 7, R 8 and R 9 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom. R and s that can be identical or different are each an integer ranging from 1 to 6, q equals 0 or an integer ranging from 1 to 34 and X- is an anion like a halide. T is an integer chosen in such a way that it is equal to 0 or 1. A is chosen from divalent radicals such as -CH2-CH2-0-CH2-CH2-. Examples of which include: Polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-2, where r = s = 3, q = 0, t = 0, R6, R7, R8 and R9 are methyl groups, and A is -CH2 -CH2-0-CH2-CH2, such as the products sold under the name Ethpol PQ-2 of Ethox and Mirapol A-15 by the company Rhodia.
The polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-17, where r = s = 3, q = 4, t = 1 R6, R7, R8 and R9 are methyl groups, and A is -CH2-CH2-0-CH2- CH2 The polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium 18, where r = s = 3, q = 7, t = 1 R6, R7, R8 and R9 are methyl groups, and A is -CH2-CH2-0-CH2-CH2 The polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as the block copolymer formed by the reaction of polyquaternium-2 with polyquaternium-17, known as polyquaternium 27, such as the products sold under the name Mirapol 175 by the company Rhodia. 8) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidones and vinylimidazoles and optionally vinylcaprolactams, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-16 formed of methylvinylimidazolium chlorides and vinylpyrrolidones, such as the products sold under the name Luviquat FC370, Luviquat FC550, Luviquat FC905, Luviquat HM-552 by the company BASF. Or the copolymers of vinylcaprolactams and vinylpyrrolidones with methyl vinylimidazolium methosulfates, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-46, such as the products sold under the name Luviquat Hold by the company BASF. Or the copolymers of quaternized vinylpyrrolidones and imidazolines, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as poylquaternium-44, such as the products sold under the name Luviquat Care by the BASF company 9) Polyamines such as the product Polyquart H marketed by Cognis with the reference name polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
) Crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy (C1-C4) alkyltrialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salt, such as polymers obtained by means of the homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylates quaternized with methyl chloride, or by means of the copolymerization of acrylamides with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylates quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo or copolymerization followed by crosslinking with a compound comprising olefinic unsaturation, such as methylene bisacrylamides, examples of which include polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-37, such as the products sold with the name Synthalen, CN Synthalen CR, Synthalen CU, marketed by 3V sigma, or as a dispersion in other media such as the products sold under the name Saleare SC95 and Saleare SC96 by the company Ciba or Rheocare CTH (E) by the company Cosmetic Rheologies. Or in another example that includes the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium-32, or when they are marketed as a dispersion in mineral oil as the products sold under the name Saleare SC92 by the company Ciba. 11) Other examples of cationic polymers include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium 51, such as the products sold under the name Lipidure-PMB by the NOF company, by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium 54, such as the products sold with the name Qualty-Hy by the company Mitsui, and by the INCI nomenclature as polyquaternium 56 as the products sold under the name Hairrol UC-4 by the company Sanyo Chemicals. 12) Silicone polymers comprising cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups. For example: the cationic silicones of the general formula (R 10 -N + (CH 3) 2) -R 1 1- (Si (CH 3) 2-0) x-R 1 1- (N + (CH 3) 2) -R 10), wherein R 10 is an alkyl derived from coconut oil, and R1 1 is (CH2CHOCH20 (CH2) 3 and x is a number of 20 and 2000, examples of which include polymers known to the INCI nomenclature such as quaternium 80, such as the products sold under the name of Abil Quat 3272 and Abil Quat 3474 marketed by Goldschmidt. Silicones containing groups that can be ionized in cationic groups, for example, aminosilicones containing at least 10 units of repeating siloxanes - (Si (CH3) 2-0) in the polymer chain, with terminal aminofunctional groups, grafts or a mix of terminals and grafts. Examples of functional groups are not limited to aminoethylaminopropyl, aminoethylaminoisobutyl, aminopropyl. In the case of the graft polymers, the terminal siloxane units can be (CH3) 3Si-0 or R12 (CH3) 2Si-0, wherein R12 can be OH or OR13, wherein R13 is a C1-C8 alkyl group , or a mixture of both functional terminal groups. These silicones are also available as preformed emulsions. The polymer with terminal siloxane units of (CH3) 3Si-0, examples of which include the polymers known by the INCI nomenclature as trimethylsilylamodimethicone, such as the products sold under the name DC-2-8566, DC 7224 and DC-2- 8220 markeby Dow Corning and SF1708 and SM 2125 markeby GE silicones and Wacker Belsil ADM 653 markeby Wacker silicones. Other examples include polymers with terminal siloxane units of (R120) (CH3) 2Si-0 wherein R12 may be OH or OR13, wherein R13 is a C1-C8 alkyl group, or a mixture of both functional terminal groups, known by the INCI nomenclature as amodimethicone, such as the products markeunder the names Wacker Belsil ADM 1100, Wacker Belsil ADM 1600, Wacker Belsil ADM 652, Wacker Belsil ADM 6057E, Wacker Belsil ADM 8020 by Wacker Silicones, DC929, DC939, DC949 and DC AP6087 markeby Dow Corning and SM2059 markeby GE Silicones. Silicones containing groups that can be ionized in cationic groups, for example, silicones containing at least 10 siloxane units of repetition - (Si (CH3) 2-0) in the polymer chain, with terminal aminofunctional groups, grafts or a mixture of terminals and grafts, together with additional functional groups. Additional functional groups may include polyoxyalkylene, the reaction products of amines and carbinols, alkyl chains. For example, the products known by the INCI nomenclature as methoxy PEG / PPG-7/3 aminopropyl dimethicone, such as the product sold under the name of Abil Soft AF100 marketed by Degussa. For example, the products known by the INCI nomenclature as bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, such as the product sold under the name DC 8500 marketed by Dow Corning.
Surfactants The compositions according to the present invention may further comprise one or more surfactants. Suitable surfactants for use herein generally have a lipophilic chain length of about 8 to 30 carbon atoms and may be selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof. The total level of surfactant is from about 1% to about 60%, preferably from about 2% to about 30%, more preferably from about 8% to about 25% and especially from about 10% to about 20% by weight. The compositions of the invention preferably comprise a mixture of anionic and amphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants. The amphoteric components, where they could be present, in the range of about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, and more preferably about 5% at about 15% by weight of the composition; the amphoteric and nonionic components can independently be present in the range of from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 8% by weight. As examples of anionic surfactants, which may be used alone or as mixtures, there may be mentioned, for example, salts (such as alkali salts, for example, sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts and salts thereof). magnesium) of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, sulphates of monoglycerides; alkylsulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates; alkylsulfosuccinamates; alkylsulfoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates; acyl isethionates and N-acyl taurate. The alkyl or acyl radical of all these various compounds, for example, comprise from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical, for example, is selected from phenyl and benzyl groups. Among the anionic surfactants, which may also be used, there may also be mentioned the fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid, hydrogenated coconut oil acid; Acyl lactylates in which the acyl radical comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Weakly anionic surfactants can also be used, such as alkyl-D-galactosiduronic and their salts, as well as the alkyl ether (C6-C24) of the polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids, alkylamide (C6-C24) ether of polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids, alkylamide ether ( C6-C24) of polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids and their salts, for example, those comprising from 2 to 50 of ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures of these. Anionic derivatives of polysaccharides can also be used, for example, the carboxyalkyl ether of alkyl polyglucosides. Nonionic surfactants are well known compounds (see, for example, in relation to this the publication "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. Porter, published by Blackie &; Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, p. 116-178). These can be chosen, for example, from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and polyglycerolated fatty acids, alkylphenols, a-diols and alcohols comprising a fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the amount of oxide groups ethylene or propylene may vary, for example, from 2 to 200 and the glycerol groups, for example, from 2 to 30. Copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and ethylene oxide may also be mentioned. propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides which preferably have from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and its monoethanolamine and diethanolamine derivatives, polyglycerolated fatty amines, for example, comprising on average from 1 to 5, for example, from 1.5 to 4 glycerol groups; polyethoxylated fatty amines such as those comprising 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; esters of oxyethylenated fatty acids of sorbitan having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C 10 -C 14) alkylamine oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. Amphoteric surfactants can be chosen, for example, from secondary aliphatic and tertiary amine derivatives in which the aliphatic radical is selected from straight and branched chains comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and comprising at least one anionic group soluble in water (for example, carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); You can also mention the alkylbetaines (C8-C20), sulfobetaines, alkylamido (C8-C20) alkylbetaines (C1-C6) or alkylamido (C8-C2o) alkylsulfobetaínas (CrC6). Among the amine derivatives may be mentioned products marketed under the name Miranol, as described, for example, in U.S. Pat. num. 2,528,378 and 2,781, 354 which have the following structures: R2-CON HCH2CH2- N + (R3) (R4) (CH2COO) (VI) wherein: R2 is chosen from alkyl radicals derived from an acid R2-COOH present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil, and heptyl, nonyl and undecyl radicals, R3 is a β-hydroxyethyl group and R4 is a carboxymethyl group; and of R5-CONHCH2CH2- N (B) (C) (VII) wherein B represents -CH2CH2OX ', C represents - (CH2) ZY', with z = 1 or 2, X 'is chosen from the group - CH2CH2 - COOH and a hydrogen atom, Y' is chosen from radicals - COOH and - CH2-CHOH-S03H, R5 is selected from alkyl radicals of an acid R5-COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, alkyl radicals, such as the C7, C9, Cu and C13 alkyl radicals, an alkyl radical of C17 and its iso form, and an unsaturated radical of C17. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5a. edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacetate disodium, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylampheracetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid. The diethyl aminopropyl cocoaspartamide salts can also be used.
The cationic surfactants can be selected from: A) the quaternary ammonium salts of the following general Formula (VIII): wherein X "is an anion selected from halides (chloride, bromide and iodide), alkyl sulfates (C2-C6), such as methyl sulfate, phosphates, alkyl and alkylaryl sulfonates, and anions derived from organic acids, such as acetate and lactate, and i) the radicals Ri to R3, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched aliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl.The aliphatic radicals may comprise at least one heteroatom such as oxygen, hydrogen, sulfur and halogens Aliphatic radicals are selected from, for example, alkyl, alkoxy and alkylamido radicals, R 4 is selected from linear and branched alkyl radicals comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms. The cationic surfactant is, for example, a behenyltrimethylammonium salt (eg, chloride), ii) the radicals and R2, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear and branched aliphatic adducts comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals may comprise at least one heteroatom, such as oxygen, hydrogen, sulfur and halogens. Aliphatic radicals are selected from, for example, radicals alkoxy, alkylamide and hydroxyalkyl alkyl comprising from about 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, said alkyl radicals comprising at least one selected function of ester and amide functions. R3 and R4 are selected from, for example, alkylamido radicals (C12-C22) alkyl (C2-C6) and alkyl (C12-C22) acetate. The cationic surfactant is, for example, a dicetyldimethylammonium salt (for example, chloride); B) - the imidazolinium quaternary ammonium salts, such as those of the following Formula (IX): wherein R5 is selected from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, tallow fatty acid derivatives, R6 is selected from a hydrogen atom, CrC4 alkyl radicals and alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 is selected from C4 alkyl radicals R8 is selected from a hydrogen atom and C1-C4 alkyl radicals, and X "is an anion selected from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkylsulfonates and alkylarylsulfonates In one embodiment, R5 and R6 are, for example, a mixture of radicals selected from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as the fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R7 is methyl and R8 is hydrogen. A product of this type is, for example, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names "Rewoquat®" W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company Witco, C) - the diquaternary ammonium salts of Formula (X): wherein R9 is selected from aliphatic radicals comprising from about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, Rio. 11, R12. R 3 and R 14, which may be identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X "is an anion selected from methyl halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, and sulfates. These diquaternary ammonium salts, for example, include propanosebodiamonium dichloride, and D) - the quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester functional group, of the following Formula (XI): (XI) wherein: R15 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl radicals and hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl C1-C6 radicals; R16 is selected from: a radical R19C (0) -, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C1-C22 radicals, based on hydrocarbons R20 and a hydrogen atom, R18 is selected from: a radical R21C (0) -, radicals R22 based on linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbons, and a hydrogen atom, R17, R19 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from radicals based on linear and branched C7-C21 hydrocarbons, saturated and unsaturated; n, p and r, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6; and it is chosen from integers that vary from 1 to 10; x and z, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a chosen anion of simple and complex organic and inorganic anions; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then R16 is R20 and that when z is 0, then R18 is R22. In one embodiment, the ammonium salts of the formula (XV) may be used, wherein: R15 is selected from methyl and ethyl radicals, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; n, p and R are equal to 2; R16 is selected from: a radical R19C (0) -, methyl, ethyl and C14-C22 radicals based on hydrocarbons, and a hydrogen atom; R17, R19 and R21, which may be identical or different, are selected from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C7-C21 radicals, based on hydrocarbons; R18 is selected from: a radical R21 C (0) - and a hydrogen atom. These compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart by the company Cognis, Stepanquat by the company Stepan, Noxamium by the company Ceca, and Rewoquat WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
Chelants In accordance with the present invention the compositions may comprise chelants. Chelants are well known in the industry and refer to a molecule or a mixture of different molecules, each capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. Chelators are well known in the industry and a non-exhaustive list of these can be found in Martell, A. E. and Smith, R.M .: Constant Critical Stability, Vol. 1, Plenum Press, New York & London (1974) and Martell, A. E. and Hancock, R. D .: Metal Complexes in Aqueous Solution, Plenum Press, New York & London (1996), both incorporated herein by reference. Examples of chelants suitable for use herein include EDDS (ethylenediamineadisuccinic acid), carboxylic acids (in particular aminocarboxylic acids), phosphonic acids (in particular aminophosphonic acids) and polyphosphoric acids (in particular polyphosphoric acids). linear), their salts and derivatives. Chelants can be incorporated in the composition of the present invention as stabilizers and preservatives. further, it has been discovered that the chelators provide benefits for damage to hair fiber and therefore, can be used to further improve the hair damage profile of the present invention. The levels of chelants in the present invention can be as low as about 0.1%, preferably at least about 0.25%, more preferably about 0.5% for the most effective chelators such as the diamine-N.N'-dipolyzacid chelators and monoamide-N, N'-dipoly acid monoamine (e.g., EDDS). Less effective chelators are used more preferably at a concentration of at least about 1% and even more preferably higher than about 2% by weight of the composition, depending on the effectiveness of the chelant. Levels as high as approximately 10% may be used, but above this level significant problems may arise in the formulation.
Solvents Solvents suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, water, butoxydiglycol, propylene glycol, (denatured) alcohol, ethoxydiglycol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol, benzyl alcohol and dipropylene glycol. Finally, the compositions according to the present invention can be supplied in any usual manner, such as, for example, an aqueous composition, a powder, a gel or an oil-in-water emulsion. A preferred form for the compositions according to the present invention are thickened solutions comprising a salinity-tolerant thickener or oil-in-water emulsions.
Pretreatment compositions In accordance with one aspect of the method of the present invention, the hair is treated with a pretreatment composition prior to the application of the dyeing or bleaching compositions of the hair. The pretreatment compositions according to the present invention comprise at least one conditioning agent. As used herein, the term "conditioning agent" refers to any agent that has the function of improving at least one cosmetic property of keratin materials such as hair, for example, smoothness, smoothness, detangle, sensation and static electricity. The conditioning agent may be soluble or insoluble in water.
Any of the conditioning agents previously included herein as conditioning agents and surfactants may be suitable for use in the pretreatment composition. Especially preferred are cationic polymers, silicone materials, anionic polymers, nonionic polymers, oils and waxes, emulsions made with lamellar liquid crystals and mixtures thereof. Emulsions made with laminar liquid crystals that are formed by combining various active ingredients provide an improvement in the cosmetic properties of the composition, for example, in the conditioning properties. This occurs due to the presence of a combination of fatty materials and an emulsifier to form an emulsion. Emulsifiers for use in the continuous aqueous phase of the emulsion may include an anionic surfactant, cationic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant, water soluble polymer surfactant, surfactant comprising water soluble silicone, nonionic surfactant having an HLB greater than about 10, or a surfactant system capable of forming stabilizing liquid crystals. The nonionic surfactant preferably has an HLB of at least 12, and more preferably, an HLB value of at least 15. Surfactants belonging to these classes are listed in McCutcheon's Emulsifiers and Detergents (McCutcheon's Emulsifiers and Detergents) ), North American and international editions, MC Publishing Co., Glen Rock NJ, pages 235-246 (1993). The emulsifier to be used in the aqueous phase does not gel the aqueous phase. However, the emulsifier may be capable of forming a stabilizing layer of laminar liquid crystals. To be more concise, the term "liquid crystal structure", as used herein, should also include gel networks, which are solidified liquid crystals. The surfactant system can be a single surfactant or a mixture of surfactants. In some cases, a particular surfactant can not form a liquid crystal structure by itself, but can participate in the formation of liquid crystals in the presence of a second surfactant. Illustrative classes of surfactants that can participate in the formation of a liquid crystal include, but are not limited to, cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, quaternary ammonium surfactants and specific lipid surfactants. Preferred nonionic surfactants for the formation of liquid crystals in the continuous aqueous phase are non-ionic type and include C16-20 fatty alcohols, and C16-20 fatty alcohol ethoxylates with 1 to 30 ethylene oxide groups. Specific examples include cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, ceteareth ethoxylates having between 10 and 30 ethylene oxide groups, ceteth ethoxylates having between 10 and 30 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylates of esteareth having between 10 and 30 ethoxylates, and combinations of these. Preferably, the C 16-22 fatty alcohols are used in combination with C 16-22 fatty alcohol ethoxylates in a ratio of 10: 1 to 0.5: 1, more preferably 6: 1 to 1: 1 and most preferably 5: 1 to 1.5: 1. Preferred cationic surfactants contain quaternary ammonium compounds of the formula: [R18R19R20R21N] + X-, wherein R18 is an alkyl or alkenyl group having from about 8 to 22 carbon atoms, R19 and R20 are both independently an alkyl group or alkenyl having from about 8 to 22 carbon atoms or an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from about 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R21 is an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from about 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is a salt-forming anion (eg, chloride, bromide, acetate, alkyl sulfate). Advantageously, in order to facilitate the formation of liquid crystals, the The surfactant system may also comprise amidoamines of the following general formula: R22CONH (CH2) m N (R23) 2, wherein R22 is a C8 to C24 fatty acid residue, R23 is a C1 to C4 alkyl and m is an integer of 1 to 4. preferred amidoamines useful herein include stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, estearamldoetil-diethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamido-propildietilamlna, palmitamidoetll-dletilamina, palmitamido-ethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamido-propildietilamina, behenamldoetil-dletllamina, behenamidoetildimetilamina , arachidomidopropyl dimethyl amine, arachidomido-propyldiethyl amine, arachidomidoethyl diethylamine, arachidomidoethyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; more preferably stearamido-propyldimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, and mixtures thereof. More advantageously, the amidoamines are partially quaternized with the acids selected from the group comprising L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, L-glutamic acid hydrochloride, tartaric acid, and mixtures of these; preferably, L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the mol ratio of amidoamine to the acid is from about 1: 0.3 to about 1: 1, more preferably from about 1: 0.5 to about 1: 0. Polymers suitable as conditioning agents include anionic and nonionic polymers which may be soluble or insoluble in water. Suitable anionic polymers include polymers comprising at least one group derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphoric acid and those having a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 5,000,000 determined, for example, by means of gel permeation chromatography. . Suitable nonionic polymers include, for example, the following polymers: vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; polyalkyloxazolines such as the polyethyloxazolines marketed by Dow Chemical under the names "Peox 50,000", "Peox 200,000" and "Peox 500,000"; vinyl acetate homopolymers such as the product marketed under the name "Appretan EM" by the company Hoechst and the product marketed under the name "Rhodopas A 012" by the company Rhodia Chimie; copolymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic ester such as the product marketed under the name "Rhodopas AD 310" by Rhodia Chimie; copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene such as the product marketed under the name "Appretan TV" by the company Hoechst; copolymers of vinyl acetate and maleic ester, for example, of dibutyl maleate such as the product marketed under the name "Appretan MB Extra" by the company Hoechst; polyethylene and maleic anhydride copolymers; homopolymers of alkyl acrylate and alkyl methacrylate such as the product marketed under the name "Micropearl RQ 750" by the company Matsumoto or the product marketed under the name "Luhydran A 848 S" by the company BASF; acrylic ester copolymers, for example, the copolymers of alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates such as the products marketed by the company Rohm & Haas with the names "Primal AC-261 K" and "Eudragit NE 30 D", by the company BASF with the names "Acronal 601", "Luhydran LR 8833" and 8845 and by the company Hoechst with the names "Appretan N 9213"or N 9212; acrylonitrile copolymers and a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates; Mention may be made of the products marketed under the names "Nipol LX 531 B" by the company Nippon Zeon and those marketed under the name "CJ 0601 B" by the company Rohm & Haas; polyurethanes such as the products marketed under the names "Acrysol RM 1020" and "Acrysol RM 2020" by the company Rohm & Haas and the products "Uraflex XP 401 UZ" and "Uraflex XP 402 UZ" by the company DSM Resins; alkyl acrylate and urethane copolymers such as the product "8538-33" marketed by the company National Starch; polyamides such as the product "Estapor LO 11" marketed by the company Rhodia Chimie; and non-ionic guar gums, unmodified and chemically modified. Examples of oils suitable for use as conditioning agents in the pretreatment method of the present invention include animal and vegetable oils and are chosen, for example, from the group comprising sunflower oil, corn oil, soy bean oil, oil of avocado, jojoba oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, fish oils, glyceryl tricaprocaprylate, and vegetable and animal oils of the formula R9COOR10, where R9 is chosen from waste of higher fatty acids containing from 7 to 29 carbon atoms and R 0 is chosen from linear and branched hydrocarbon-based chains containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as alkyl and alkenyl, for example, purcelin oil and liquid jojoba wax. Waxes are natural (animal or vegetable) or synthetic substances, solid at room temperature (20 ° C-25 ° C). They are insoluble in water, soluble in oils and capable of forming a water repellent film. The waxes are chosen, for example, from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, alfalfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax and absolute waxes of flowers such as wax. Essential of the blackcurrant flower marketed by the company Bertin (France), animal waxes such as beeswaxes, and modified beeswaxes (cerabelline). Other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used include, for example, sea waxes such as the product marketed by the company Sophim under the reference M82 and the polyethylene waxes and polyolefins in general.
The pretreatment compositions preferably comprise a conditioning agent comprising an emulsion made with lamellar liquid crystals, more preferably a fatty alcohol and a surfactant emulsion. The pretreatment composition has a viscosity from 100 Pa to 300 Pa, preferably from 15 Pa to 285 Pa, more preferably from 130 Pa to 250 Pa and most preferably from 160 Pa to 240 Pa. The pretreatment composition is normally it comprises from 0.2 to 20%, preferably from 1.0 to 15% and most preferably from 5 to 15% of these conditioning agents and preferably has a pH from 3 to 7, more preferably pH 4 and pH 6. The composition Pretreatment may also comprise additional ingredients that are selected such that the performance or shelf stability of the composition is not substantially eliminated or reduced. For example, additional ingredients may include dyes and coloring agents, fragrances; anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants; shock absorbers, masking fragrances, dispersing agents, stabilizers, cationic polymers, perfumes, non-ionic polymers, anionic polymers, complex coacervates, complex coacervate capsules, metal salts, Lewis acids, buffering agents, particulate thickeners, polymeric thickeners, waxy thickeners, oils , emollients, humectants, moisturizers, pearlizing agents, opacifiers, enzymes, suspending agents, antimicrobials, preservatives, proteins, herbal and plant extracts, bleaches, peroxides, polyols, silicones, solvents, antibodies, pH adjusting agents, including pH buffers , viscosity modifiers, preservatives, viscosity enhancers, gelling agents, chelants, oxidizing agents, reducing agents, UV filters, emulsifying agents, antioxidants, wetting agents and conditioners, and other common adjuvants that are well known for those experienced in the industry. In accordance with the present invention it has been surprisingly discovered that the application of the pretreatment composition to the hair prior to applying the coloring or decolorizing composition, preferably without a pre-rinse, provides several unexpected benefits. First, the presence of the pretreatment composition in the hair facilitates the application of the coloring or decolorizing composition since the hair does not separate too quickly or on the contrary does not become entangled when applying the composition to the hair, especially as long hair Accordingly, the compositions can be applied more quickly and effectively. Second, the pretreatment composition also prevents the hair coloring compositions from staining the skin. Third, the pretreatment compositions provide conditioning benefits that the consumer already begins to observe at the time of removing the coloring or decolorizing composition. Consequently, the pretreatment method reduces the need for a final conditioning step and thus accelerates the time the consumer needs to complete the process. Oxidative hair dye compositions are usually sold in kits comprising, in individually packaged components such as separate packages, a dye component (also referred to as "dye cream" for emulsions or "dye liquid" for solutions) comprising the dye oxidative, the precursors and the alkalizing agent which is normally ammonia in a suitable carrier and; a hydrogen peroxide component (also referred to as a "hydrogen peroxide cream" for emulsions or "hydrogen peroxide liquid" for solutions) comprising the oxidizing agent (usually hydrogen peroxide). The consumer mixes the dye component and the hydrogen peroxide component together immediately before use and applies it to the hair. The illustrated formulations provided in the following tables illustrate these resulting mixtures. Also, the bleaching compositions are also usually sold as a kit comprising two or three individually packaged components, usually in two or three separate packages. The first component comprises the ammonium ion source (eg, ammonia), the second component comprises the oxidizing agent and the third component (optional) comprises a second oxidizing agent. The bleaching compositions are obtained by mixing the aforementioned compositions immediately before use. The present invention can be used in various packaging and shipping devices. These dispatch devices can be obtained as separate devices that can be used independently or in combination with each other. The dyeing or bleaching compositions of the hair are normally contained within separate containers of one or more compartments in such a way that the compositions can be stored separately from each other before use. The compositions are then mixed by some means of mixing and applied to the consumer's hair with some means of application. The most common packaging device that can be used for the present invention comprises storing the developer in a container such as a bottle, tube, aerosol or sachet and independently storing the dye lotion in an additional compartment inside the developer container or in a container separate that may be identical, such as a double sachet or aerosol system for example, or different as a bottle and tube system. The consumer can mix the developer lotion and the dye lotion by any means. This can be done simply by using a mixing bowl in which the lotions are dispensed and then mixed, preferably using a medium of mixed as a tool. Alternatively, one of the lotions can be added in the other lotion container, (usually, the dye lotion is added to the developer lotion), and then manually stirred or mixed with a tool. Another system comprises piercing or displacing a seal located between separate compartments of the dye and developer lotion within a single container or sachet and then mixing manually within the container or in a separate and / or additional container. An example of these devices are the so-called "unscrew and use" devices. To use these devices the consumer unscrews the base of a container containing the dye and thus opens a communication port between the base of the bottle containing the dye and the upper part of the bottle containing the developer. The two components are mixed and the consumer presses the flexible upper portion of the bottle to dispense the product. Alternatively, more complex devices may be used by which the lotions are mixed at the start of the shipment. An example of such a complex system is a double aerosol system, for example, a bag inside a can or plunger. The dye and the developer are stored independently in two aerosol cans inside a device; with a propellant the contents of the can or bag are pressurized in the can or plunger and with a valve the dispatch is controlled. When the consumer activates the valve, the dye and the developer are simultaneously dispensed out of the cans and mixed by means of a static mixer just before dispensing the product on the hair. The ratio of the dye and the developer can be managed by means of the viscosity of the products, the pressure of the can or by the alteration of the size of the flow channel through the valve. In addition, the product can be a foam and be supplied in the form of modeling foam. Another example of this complex system uses a double plunger system and screw. The dye and the developer are kept in separate systems of cylindrical pistons within the system and when the consumer activates a button, two screws rotate in such a way that the double pistons that are inside pressurize the liquid in the cylinders and thereby exert force on the products so that they move through a mixing station and exit the nozzle for dispatch. The ratio of the dye and the developer can be managed by the diameter of the container cylinder. To facilitate mixing, an in-line static mixer can also be used and that system can be completely disposable or rechargeable. Another system uses one or more pumps that are activated manually. The product can be premixed in a semi-rigid sachet. When the consumer activates the pump, the liquid that is inside it is dispensed. As the manually activated pump recovers the vertical position, it exerts force so that the product leaves the semi-rigid sachet. Alternatively, the double system can be installed in such a way that two sachets and two pumps are used to supply the dye and developer lotions to the hair. Alternatively, a single pump connected to two sachets can be used to supply the product by incorporating the mixing point into the pump. Another mode uses a rigid bottle and a dip tube to connect the product to the pump system. Finally, a bottle of falling layers can be used combined with a manually activated pump, where the inner layer of the bottle is separated from the outer layer of the bottle that exerts force on the contents of the bottle for the dispatch . These complex systems usually offer the advantage of applying the product regardless of the orientation of the product. The devices described above can also be used in combination with a product supply and / or application tool to facilitate the application of this on the hair. Again, these devices can be very simple, such as a nozzle attached to one of the containers or a separate applicator device such as a comb or brush. These combs and brushes can be adapted to obtain certain effects, for example, a fast and even coverage or a retouching of the root / hairline, highlights or reflections. Alternatively, the package or one of the packages may include a comb attached to or replacing the dispensing nozzle, where the product is dispensed through hollow teeth and dispensing openings located in the teeth of the comb. The teeth of the comb can include one or multiple openings along the teeth to improve the application and uniformity of the product, especially from the root to the tip. The product can be dispensed by means of mechanical pressure applied to the container, for example, bottles with separating layers or any of the mechanisms described above. The comb can be incorporated in the container to facilitate the application and can be located vertically (called vertical comb) or at a certain angle that allows the consumer to access all areas. All the devices can be designed in such a way that they are interchangeable and in this way the consumer can be provided with several different tools to apply the composition to the hair. The application devices may also include devices that help to obtain particular effects such as streaks, for example, combs, brushes and tools for making streaks and metal sheets and hats for making streaks. To facilitate the penetration of the product into the hair, another device technology can be used. Examples of such technology include heating devices, ultraviolet light devices and ultrasound devices.
Method of use In accordance with the present invention, the method for coloring and discoloration of the hair comprises, after applying the composition to the hair and preferably impregnating the mixture for a few minutes (to ensure uniform application throughout the hair), the step of leaving the composition on the hair to that the color develops for a period of less than about 20 minutes, preferably less than about 15 minutes, more preferably about 5 minutes to about 10 minutes and most preferably about 10 minutes. After this, the consumer rinses the hair well under running water and waits for it to dry and / or comb it in the usual manner. It can be observed that instead of the original color the hair will have the desired color. According to an alternative embodiment of the present invention, the method of coloring and / or decolorizing the hair is a sequential method of oxidative discoloration or coloration comprising the steps of applying at least two treatments of oxidative discoloration or coloration of the hair in sequence, wherein the period of time between each treatment is from 1 to 60 days, preferably from 1 to 40 days, more preferably from 1 to 28 days, even more preferably from 1 to 14 days and most preferably from 1 to 7 days. In those embodiments, the time during which the composition remains in the head can be less than about 20 minutes, preferably less than 10 minutes and most preferably from about 2 minutes to about 5 minutes. According to another embodiment of the present invention, the coloring or decolorization method comprises a pretreatment step by means of which a pretreatment composition comprising at least one conditioning agent is applied to the hair and without rinsing the hair the composition is then applied coloring or decolorizing. That pretreatment composition is usually also packaged in a separate package. When present in oxidative dye compositions and bleaching compositions, the optional conditioning agent may be provided in a third container. In the latter case, the compositions can be mixed immediately before use and applied together, or the contents of the third container can be applied (after an optional rinse step) as a terminal treatment immediately after the oxidative dye composition or The resulting decolorizing composition that the mixture of the other containers. In the case of compositions comprising a radical scavenger, the scavenger may be included within the dye component, hydrogen peroxide component, pretreatment composition, if present, or may be included as a separate radical scavenger component, independently packaged . Similarly, in the case of the bleaching composition, the radical scavenger may be included within the ammonium ion source component, oxidizing agent component, second oxidizing agent component, pretreatment composition, if present, or within a separate radical scavenger component, or it may be included within two or more components. However, radical scavengers are preferably included within the dye component. The radical scavenger is usually applied to the hair during or after the application of any pretreatment composition, but before applying the coloring or decolorizing composition to the hair. Alternatively, the radical scavenger is mixed with the dye or oxidant component. In another embodiment of the present invention, the kit may comprise a separate component comprising other sensitive materials, such as certain dyes, for example, cationic azo dyes that are not stable in the dye component. principal. The kits described above are well known in the industry and the composition in each package can be manufactured using any of the standard methods, these include a) "oil in water" process, b) "phase inversion" process and c) process "one-pot" For example, in a "one-pot" process, the polymers and the chelators would previously dissolve in water to then add the fatty materials and heat the entire composition to about 70-80 ° C. Then follow a controlled cooling process and the optional mixed with shear to form the final structured product in the case of an emulsion. The addition of the materials that provide the source of peroxy monocarbonate ions, the radical scavengers and the ammonia, and optionally the solvents, dyes and pH adjusters, complete the process of making the cream dye. In the case of a liquid solution comprising acrylate polymers, these would be formulated in the hydrogen peroxide component. The glycol solvents and the fatty components are formulated in the dye component. A structured product is formed when the dye and the hydrogen peroxide components are mixed together to utilize the composition, resulting from the deprotonation of the polymeric acrylic acid groups as the pH increases, producing a polymeric microgel. U.S. Pat. no. 5,376,146 to Casperson et al. and No. 5,393,305 de Cohen et al. they contain more details on the preparation of these two-part aqueous compositions for dyeing the hair, which form a gel by mixing the two parts. The composition of the present invention can also be formulated as a 2 part aqueous composition comprising polyether polyurethane as the agent thickener (such as Aculyn® 46), as described in US Pat. num. 6,156,076 and 6,106,578.
EXAMPLES The following examples illustrate the oxidative dyeing compositions according to the present invention and the methods for the manufacture thereof.
Examples of emulsion formulations 1 -1 0 Examples of emulsion formulations 1 1 - 20 Examples of formulations of aqueous solutions thickened 1 -10 Examples of pretreatment compositions The pretreatment compositions 1-6 included below were prepared by heating the water to 80 ° C and then adding the glutamic acid and stearamidopropyldimethylamine and fatty alcohols, EDTA and benzyl alcohol and then mixing. The mixture was cooled to a temperature lower than the transition phase, additional ingredients were added and then cooled to 30 ° C. The mixture was ground using a Silverson SL2 for 3 minutes.
A rotary AR 500 rheometer (TA Instruments Ltd., Leatherhead, Surrey KT22 7UQ, UK) is used to determine the viscosity of the pretreatment compositions. The determination is made at 26.7 ° C with the steel cone measuring system unit of 4 cm 2 ° with a space of 50 μp? (micras) by means of the programmed application of a cutting speed of 0.5 to 1000 1 / s during a period of 1 minute with 10 data points registered per decade. This data is used to generate a curve of cutting speed versus shear stress for the material. The value obtained is recorded in the graphs plotted at 850 s'1. The illustrative pretreatment compositions described above can be applied to wet or dry hair (preferably dry). Immediately before use, the dye component and the oxidizing component are mixed. The resulting mixture is then applied to the hair. If the consumer has not previously dyed or is changing the color of their hair, the mixture is applied throughout the hair massaging the product in the hair from the roots to the tips (called "application over the head"). Once the application is finished, a time of 6 to 15 minutes (preferably 10 minutes) is expected for the color to develop. The product is then rinsed from the hair with hot water until no more product drips. Optionally, a product can then be applied conditioner. If the consumer is dyeing with the same color (called "root retouching"), after mixing the dye component and the oxidizing component, part of the mixture is first applied to the roots of the hair. Once the application is completed at the roots, a period of 5 to 9 minutes is expected for the color to develop. The remaining mixture is then applied to the rest of the hair and another period is expected (after finishing the application) of 1 to 10 minutes for the color to develop. Preferably, the total waiting time for the color to develop is 10 minutes or less. Once the development time is over, the product is rinsed from the hair as explained in the description of the whole head application included above. When a pretreatment composition is used, this composition is first applied to dry hair. The pretreatment composition is left on the unrinsed hair while using the "whole head application" or "root retouching" protocols described above. When the pretreatment consists of applying an effective conditioner, the consumer may omit the final separate conditioning treatment; this simplifies the procedure and reduces the total time of it.

Claims (13)

1. A method for rapid oxidative staining or discoloration of hair in less than 20 minutes; the method comprises the steps of: i) Providing a composition comprising at least one source of peroxy monocarbonate ions, at least one alkalizing agent, and characterized in that the composition has a pH of up to 9.5, inclusive; ii) applying the composition to the hair and maintaining the composition in the hair for a period of time less than about 20 minutes, and subsequently iii) rinsing the hair composition.
2. A sequential method of coloration or oxidative discoloration of the hair characterized in that it comprises the steps of applying at least two sequential treatments of oxidative discoloration or coloration of the hair, wherein the period of time between each treatment is from 1 day to 60 days, and because each treatment comprises the steps of providing a composition comprising i) at least one source of peroxy monocarbonate ions and ii) at least one source of alkalizing agent, wherein the composition has a pH lower than 9.5 and then applying the composition to the hair and retaining the composition in the hair for a period of less than 20 minutes to then rinse the hair composition.
3. A hair coloring or discoloration method according to claim 1 or 2, further characterized in that the method also comprises a first pretreatment step, wherein a pretreatment composition comprising at least one conditioning agent is applied to the hair.
4. A hair coloring or decolorization method according to claim 3, further characterized in that the pretreatment composition is not rinsed from the hair prior to the next step. A hair coloring or decolorization method according to claim 1 or 2, further characterized in that the composition is maintained on the hair for a period of time less than about 15 minutes, preferably about 5 to about 10 minutes. 6. A hair coloring or decolorization method according to claim 1 or 2, further characterized in that the source of peroxymonocarbonate ions comprises at least one source of hydrogen peroxide and at least one source of carbonate, carbamate and / or ion. hydrocarbonate, and mixtures thereof. 7. A hair coloring or decolorization method according to claim 1 or 2, further characterized in that at least one source of alkalizing agent is a source of ammonium ions. 8. A hair coloring or decolorization method according to claim 1 or 2, further characterized in that the composition has a pH of 7.5 to 9.
5. 9. A method of coloring or decolorizing the hair according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the composition comprises: a. 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 1% to 7% hydrogen peroxide b. from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 6% by weight of the alkalizing agent c. from 0.1 to 15%, preferably from 1% to 8% by weight of less a source of carbonate, carbamate and / or hydrogen carbonate ions 10. A method of coloring or decolorizing the hair according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the composition also comprises at least one oxidative dye and / or at least one direct dye. 11. A hair coloring or decolorization method according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the composition also comprises a radical scavenger. 12. A hair coloring or decolorization method according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that the composition also comprises a chelating agent. 13. The use of a hair coloring or bleaching composition comprising at least one source of peroxymonocarbonate ions, at least one alkalizing agent, further characterized in that the composition has a pH of up to 9.5, inclusive, for coloring or discoloring the hair in less than 20 minutes.
MXMX/A/2007/003485A 2004-09-24 2007-03-23 Methods of rapid hair dyeing MX2007003485A (en)

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