LU87399A1 - COSMETIC OR PHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITION FOR THE TREATMENT OF HAIR AND SCALP - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition for hair and scalp treatment, obtained by combining nonionic lipids, capable of forming a lipid lamellar phase, with an aqueous solution containing at least one cationic surfactant agent and/or one quaternised protein.

Description

COSMETIC OR PHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITION FOR THE TREATMENT OF HAIR AND SCALP.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition for the treatment of hair and scalp.

It is well known that hair is sensitized or weakened to varying degrees by the action of atmospheric agents as well as by the action of various cosmetic treatments, such as perms, dyes or bleaches. The hair then becomes difficult to untangle and style. In addition, they become rough to the touch.

We therefore sought compositions which make it easier to disentangle and style the hair and improve its softness to the touch. For this purpose, cationic surfactants are commonly used. Said surfactants improve disentangling and styling but have drawbacks: they tend to weigh down the hair and give it a greasy appearance. These disadvantages are all the more accentuated as the treated hair is thinner.

For the same purpose, it has also been proposed to use quaternized proteins. Said proteins have neither the disadvantage of weighing down the hair, nor that of giving it a greasy appearance; on the other hand, the improvement in the disentangling and styling of the hair, which it brings, is much less than that brought by cationic surfactants.

We have therefore tried to use compositions containing both a cationic surfactant and a quaternized protein. But, in this case, the effect obtained is less than the sum of the effects which could be obtained separately using the cationic surfactant and using the quaternized protein because, in the majority in some cases, the deposition of the cationic surfactant on the hair slows down that of the quaternized protein.

Furthermore, it has been known for a very long time to use oils and fatty substances to restore softness and shine to the hair; the application of these compounds is generally followed by a shampoo to remove excess oil or fatty substances from the hair. However, the use of oils and fatty substances softens and weighs down the hair and it is impossible to obtain a hairstyle that has hold and volume.

According to the present invention, it has been found that by associating, with an aqueous solution containing at least one cationic surfactant and / or a quaternized protein, nonionic lipids capable of forming a hydrated lipidic water-insoluble lamellar phase. , compositions were obtained which make it possible to disentangle and style the hair easily without softening, weighing it down or greasing it. In addition, said compositions give the hair surprising properties as to the blowing and allow sheathing of the hair from root to tip. The treated hair therefore has shine and softness and, after disentangling, it is smooth and light from root to tip, even in the case of sensitized hair and fine hair.

It has also been found that said compositions have, surprisingly, a moisturizing effect on the scalp. They have the advantage of providing a pleasant feeling of freshness and comfort on the scalp. They therefore have a double action: on the hair and on the scalp.

In addition, the compositions according to the invention have excellent storage stability.

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition for the treatment of hair and scalp containing non-ionic amphiphilic lipids capable of forming a hydrated lipidic lamellar phase, insoluble in water, possibly associated with a stabilizer, said lipids being dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase characterized in that the said aqueous phase contains: 1) at least one cationic surfactant of formula

(I) formula in which X is in particular chlorine or CH _S07 and R, is an alkyl radical in C - CA, of 3 4 1 14 preferably the methyl radical, and in which: a) when X is chlorine: - or well R_ and R are alkyl radicals

έ O

in C ^ - C 4, identical or different from R ^ and between them, and R ^ is an alkyl radical in C ^ g- C

- or else R = R. and, in this case: 2 1 - or R _ = R. = C 1 alkyl radical; 3 4 io - or R ^ = radical (alkyl C friend dopro-pyle and R ^ = radical (alkyl C ^) acetate; b) when X is CH ^ 30 ^: R 2 denotes a radical (alkyl and / or alkenyl) amidoethyl, in which the alkyl and / or alkenyl radical is in - C ^ and derived from tallow fatty acids; - R and R together with nitrogen form a substituted 4-5 4-5-dihydroimidazole heterocycle, in particular a 2- (C 14 -C 22 alkyl derivative of tallow fatty acids) 4,5-dihydroimidazole and / or 2) at least one quaternized protein constituted by a chemically modified polypeptide carrying, at the end of the chain or grafted onto it, at least one quaternary ammonium group which contains at least one alkyl group in - C ^ g, the polypeptide being chosen from hydrolysates of animal protein.

When this hydrated lipidic lamellar phase forms vesicles, these are called niosomes. The niosomes contained in the composition according to the invention advantageously have an average diameter of between 0.01 and 5 dd, preferably between 0.1 and 0.35 p.

Niosomes are known in the art. They are described, as well as their method of preparation, in French Patent No. 2,315,991. They are spherules or vesicles consisting of one or more concentric layers of lipids separated by layers of internal aqueous phase. In the case of niosomes, the lipids used for the manufacture of spherules or vesicles are, in known manner, nonionic amphiphiles, of natural or synthetic origin, comprising, per molecule, one or more long chain (s) ) hydrocarbon (s).

According to the invention, the non-ionic amphiphilic lipid compound (s) constituting the hydrated lipidic lamellar phase, insoluble in water, are advantageously chosen from polyglycerol ethers or esters , linear or branched, of respective formulas: (Π)

and (III) formulas where τ \ is an average statistical value between 2 and 6 and where R5 is: 1) either an aliphatic chain R ^ or a residue R'g CO, Rgétant an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, C -C and R ′ a linear or branched aliphatic radical, C 18 -C 12; 2) or a radical R-, 0CHo-CH -, where 0 R-, and Rg are radicals Rg or R’gCO, identical or different, R and R ’having the meanings above-6b defined above.

In known manner, these nonionic lipid compounds constituting the hydrated lipid lamellar phase are preferably associated with at least one stabilizing additive intended to modify the permeability or the surface charge of the lipid sheets of the hydrated lipid lamellar phase. According to the invention, these additives are more particularly chosen from the group formed by sterols, such as cholesterol or beta-sitostero1; the mono-sodium or disodium salts of acyl glutamates, the acyl radical being C ^ 22 '^ ee * e monosodium salt of stearoyl glutamate, disodium salts of cocoyl glutamates, stearoyl or mixtures of radicals acids derived from copra and tallow; and phosphoric esters of fatty alcohols C.0- C, e.

the 1b

In the case where the nonionic amphiphilic lipid is a compound of formula (II) or (III) defined above, where R represents R „or RICO, R„ and 5 6 6 6 R ′ having the meanings above indicated, said 6 non-ionic amphiphilic lipid is associated, at the same time, with a sterol, preferably cholesterol and with an anionic additive.

The anionic stabilizers are combined with the nonionic amphiphilic lipid compounds in an amount preferably not exceeding 12% by weight relative to the weight of the nonionic amphiphilic lipid (s). constituting the hydrated lipidic lamellar phase. For sterols, and in particular cholesterol, this same proportion must remain less than or equal to 100% by weight.

According to the invention, the hydrated lipidic lamellar phase contains water in the presence or absence of a cosmetically or pharmaceutically active agent. As active agent, mention may be made, for example, of anti-hair loss or hair regrowth agents, retinoids and the like, anti-inflammatories, anti-fungals, anti-seborrheics, sun filters, and analogues.

The cationic surfactant contained, according to the invention, in the continuous aqueous phase of the composition, is advantageously chosen from the group formed by: a) tetraalkylammonium halides such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyl dimethylammonium chloride, trimethylketylammonium chloride; b) stearamidopropyldimethy1- (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride of formula:

(IV) such as the product sold under the trade name "CERAPHYL 70" by the company "VAN DYK"; c) a quaternary ammonium salt of formula:

(V) in which R g denotes a mixture of alkeny and / or C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals derived from tallow fatty acids, such as the product sold under the trade name "REWOQUAT U 7500" by the company "REWO" .

The quaternized protein contained according to the invention in the continuous aqueous phase is advantageously chosen from the group formed by; a) certain protein hydrolysates carrying, on the polypeptide chain, quaternary ammonium groups comprising at least one alkyl radical in - C ^ g and in particular an animal protein hydrolyzate sold under the trade name "CROTEIN Q" by the company "CRODA" , whose polypeptide chain has an average molecular weight of the order of 12,000; b) animal protein hydrolysates carrying trimethylbenzylammonium groups (called "bensy1trimonium hydrolysed animal protein" in the "CTFA cosmetic Dictionary" (3rd edition, 1982) published by "The Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragance Association Inc." and hereinafter called "CTFA dictionary") and, for example, that sold under the trade name "CROTEIN BTA" by the Company "CRODA"; c) collagen hydrolysates carrying triethylammonium groups, called "Triethonium hydrolysed collagen ethosu1 fate" in the CTFA dictionary and sold under the trade name "QUAT-PRO E" by the company "MAYBROOK"; d) collagen hydrolysates carrying trimethylammonium and trimethylstearylammonium groups, called in the CTFA dictionary "Steartrimonium hydrolysed collagen" and sold under the trade name "QUAT PRO S" by the company "MAYBROOK"; e) a quaternized protein resulting from condensation of cocamidopropy1-dimethy1-amine on a hydrolyzed animal protein, called, in the supplement to the 3rd edition (1982) of the CTFA dictionary: COCAM 1DOPROPYLDIMONIUM HYDROXYPROPYLAMI NO HYDROLYSED ANIMAL PROTEIN sold under the trade name "LEXEIN QX 3000" INOLEX ".

The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain both at least one cationic surfactant and at least one quaternized protein. In this case: - the cationic surfactant is preferably a tetraalkylammonium chloride of formula (1) in which R ^, Rg and Rg are radicals a 1ky1e en and is an alkyl radical Cgg C 22 ' and the quaternized protein is preferably an animal protein hydrolyzate carrying quaternary ammonium groups comprising a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical.

1 18

The continuous aqueous dispersion phase may optionally contain, in addition to the cationic surfactant and / or the quaternized protein, at least one known additive such as preservatives, stabilizers, colorants, perfumes, softeners, humectants preferably chosen from polyols such as glycerin, and thickeners such as fatty alcohols, oxyethylenated or not.

In the composition according to the invention, the cationic surfactant (s) represents (s) from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the quaternized protein (s) represents (s) from 0.05 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; the non-ionic amphiphilic lipid (s) which constitute the lamellar phase represents from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10 % by weight, and more particularly 3 to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is understood that, in the case where a large amount of cationic surfactant (s) is used relative to the non-ionic amphiphilic lipid (s) (s), the choice of the cationic agent (s) is not indifferent and must be made in such a way that it (s) does not destroy the vesicles.

The composition according to the invention is generally prepared by mixing two constituents (A) and (B). Component (A) contains the hydrated lipidic lamellar phase in a continuous aqueous phase. Component (B) contains, in aqueous phase, the cationic agent and / or the quaternized protein. Each of the constituents may also contain various additives. It is preferred that each of the constituents (A) and (B) represent 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; advantageously, the two mixed constituents have substantially the same weight.

Component (A) is prepared in a conventional manner and more particularly according to the method described in French patent no. 2 315 991: - in a first step, the nonionic amphiphilic lipids are brought into contact with water, optionally mixed with additives intended to modify the permeability or the charge of the lipid sheets of the hydrated lipid lamellar phase which it is desired to form; - In a second step, an aqueous dispersion phase is added to the hydrated lipidic lamellar phase thus obtained; - In a third step, the mixture is subjected to vigorous stirring to obtain vesicles.

Once the constituent (B) is prepared, it is added to the constituent (A), with stirring, until complete homogenization.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably applied in the form of products to be rinsed off, before and more particularly after a shampoo, before and more particularly after coloring or discoloration, before and more particularly after perming or straightening. They can also be applied in the form of leave-in products, for example, before styling or brushing.

For the implementation of the compositions according to the invention with a view to a treatment of the hair and / or scalp, an effective amount of the composition according to the invention is applied to the substrate to be treated, it is left in contact for 1 15 minutes before rinsing when it is a product to rinse. The appropriate amounts of composition are, in general, of the order of 20 to 40 g for a head in the case of products to be rinsed and of the order of 5 to 10 g in the case of products not rinsed.

The examples given below, purely by way of nonlimiting illustration, will allow a better understanding of the invention.

EXAMPLE 1

In a first step, a constituent A is prepared comprising the vesicles. We melt, with gentle agitation at a temperature of 80’C, a mixture of 6 g of nonionic lipid of formula:

where n is an average statistical value equal to 6, with 1.6 g of cholesterol.

16 g of water brought to 90 ° C. containing a preservative are introduced into the molten mixture and mixed for approximately 5 minutes. To the phase thus obtained, 24 g of water at 20 ° C are added; the mixture is stirred and then another 2.3 g of water at 20 ° C. are added.

In a second step, a constituent (B) is prepared by mixing the following formulations B1 and B2:

Formulation B1

Cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol ¢ 30/70) .. 2.25 g

Cetyl alcohol / oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol containing 33 moles of ethylene oxide ... 0.55 g

Octy 1 dodécano 1 ................................ 0.4 g

Cetyl alcohol / stearyl alcohol (50/50) .. 1.2 g

Formulation B2

Glycerin .................................... 0.4 g

Behenyltrimethyiammonium chloride sold under the trade name "GENAMIN KDM-F" by the company "HOECHST" ..... 3.1 g

Protein hydrolyzate, comprising a polypeptide chain having a molecular weight of approximately 12000 and quaternary ammonium groups carrying at least one C - C alkyl group, sold under the name 1 18 trade name of "CROTEIN Q" by the Company " CRODA ”.............................. 0.25 g

Curator ................................. q.s.

Water .......................................... 40 g

The mixing of formulations B1 and B2 is carried out with stirring and the mixture is kept under stirring until complete cooling.

In a third step, the component A and the component B are mixed and kept under stirring until complete homogenization.

This composition is applied at a rate of approximately 25 g to the scalp and to the hair washed and towel-dried. After 10 ran of exposure time, rinse with water. There is a feeling of freshness when applied to the scalp. After drying, we see that the hair is sheathed and that the hairstyle is light and plump. Hair detangles easily, is shiny, soft and smooth to the ends.

EXAMPLE 2

Preparing a hair cream to rinse by proceeding according to the technique described in Example 1. The constituent (A) is prepared by gently stirring at a temperature of 80 "C a mixture of 3.8 g of the nonionic lipid of formula î

where n is an average statistical value equal to 3, with 3.8 g of cholesterol and 0.4 g of the monosodium salt of glutamate of formula:

where R is a mixture of alkenyl and / or 12 alkyl radicals hydrogenated in C ^ - C ^ derived from tallow fatty acids, sold under the trade name: "Acylglutamate HS 11" by the company "AJINOMOTO".

To this molten mixture is then added water brought to 90 ° C containing a preservative and mixed for a few minutes. To the phase thus obtained, cold water is then added with stirring to make up to 50 g.

Then, into component (A) thus prepared, component (B) described in Example 1 is introduced and the mixture is stirred until homogenized.

This cream is applied to the scalp and the hair washed and towel-dried and has the same advantages as that obtained in Example 1.

EXAMPLE 3

The procedure is as in Example 1, using in component CB) the following formulation B2:

Glycerin .................................. 0.4 g

Collagen hydrolyzate with triethylammonium groups sold under the name "QUAT PRO E" by the

Company "MAYBROOK" ......................... i g

Curator ............................... q.s.

Water ........................................ 43 g

This cream is applied to the scalp and to washed and towel-dried hair; it has the same advantages as that obtained in Example 1. EXAMPLE 4

Example 1 is reproduced using in component (B) the following formulation B2:

Glycerin .................................. 0.4 g

Disteararydimethylammonium chloride ...... 6 g

Curator ............................... q.s.

Water ......................................., 38 g

This cream is applied to the scalp and to washed and towel-dried hair; it has the same advantages as that obtained in Example 1.

EXAMPLE 5

The procedure is as in Example 1 using in component CB) the following formulation B2: G 1 ycerin ........................... ....... 0.4 g

Quaternary ammonium salt sold by the company "REWO" under the trade name "REWOQUAT 7500 PG" ............. 5 g

Curator: ............................. q.s.

Water ........................................ 40 g

This cream is applied to the scalp and to washed and towel-dried hair; it has the same advantages as that obtained in Example 1.

Claims (18)

1. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition for the treatment of hair and scalp containing non-ionic amphiphilic lipids capable of forming a hydrated lipidic lamellar phase, insoluble in water, optionally associated with a stabilizer, said lipids being in dispersed form in a continuous aqueous phase containing: 1. at least one cationic surfactant of formula

(I) in which X is chlorine or CH ^ SO and R ^ is a C - C ^ alkyl radical and in which: a) when X is chlorine: or else R and R are C 2 alkyl radicals - C, identical or different from and between them, and R is a C 6 alkyl radical, - 16 C 22? or R „= R„ and, in this case: 2 1 either Rg = R ^ = C alkyl radical or Rg = (C alkyl) amidopropyl radical and R. = radical (alkyl C Dacetate and r 4 14 b) when X is CH ^ SO “: - R g denotes a radical (alkyl and / or a 1kény1) amidoéthy1e, in which the alkyl and / or alkenyl radical is a radical in CC ^ and derived from tallow fatty acids; R _and Reform together with nitrogen a 3 4 cycle 4,5-dihydroimidazo1e substituted in position 2; and / or 2. at least one quaternized protein constituted by a chemically modified polypeptide carrying at the end of the chain or grafted onto it, at least one quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one C - C alkyl chain, the polypeptide 1 18 being chosen from animal protein hydrolysates. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the hydrated lipidic lamellar phase is present in the form of vesicles. 3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the vesicles have an average diameter between 0.01 and 5 preferably between 0.1 and 0.35 dd. 4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the amphiphilic lipid (s) (s> non-ionic (s) is (are) chosen (s) from the group formed by linear or branched polyglycerol ethers and esters of respective formulas (II) and (III):

(II) (III) formulas where ή is an average statistical value between 2 and 6 and where R is: 5 1. either an aliphatic chain R ^ or a residue R 'CO, R being an aliphatic radical, 6 6 linear or branched, in CC and R 'being a 12 18 6 cal aliphatic, linear or branched, in C - C: 11 17 2. or else a radical

where R and Rg are radicals Rg or R’gCO, identical or different, R and R ’having the meanings 6 6 defined above. 5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the lipid (s) amphiphi 1e (s) non-ionic (s), which constitutes (s) the hydrated lipid lamellar phase is ( or are) associated with at least one stabilizer chosen from the group formed by sterols, mono or disodium salts of acyl glutamates, the acyl radical being at C - This phosphoric esters of fatty alcohols at C - VS . 12 16 6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the (s) amphiphilic (s) non-ionic amphiphilic (s), which constitute) the hydrated lipid lamellar phase, is (are) associated with at least one anionic stabilizer in an amount at most equal to 12% by weight and / or at least one sterol in an amount at most equal to 100% by weight, the proportion being calculated, in both cases , relative to the weight of said non-ionic amphiphi lipid (s). 7. Composition according to claims 4 and 5 taken in combination, in which the non-ionic amphiphilic lipid (s), which constitutes (s) the hydrated lipidic lamellar phase, comprises (or include) an ether or a polyglycerol ester of formula (II) or (III), in which R ^ is an aliphatic chain R. or R'_ CO, R _ and R 'having 6 6 ü b the meanings indicated in claim 4, characterized in that the said non-ionic lipid (s) is (are ) associated with both a sterol and an anionic stabilizer. 8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the hydrated lipidic lamellar phase contains water in the presence or not of a cosmetically or pharmaceutically active agent. 9. Composition according to claim 8, in which the hydrated lipidic lamellar phase contains an active agent, characterized in that the active agent is chosen from the group formed by anti-hair loss or hair regrowth agents, retinoids and related, anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal, anti-seborrheic and sun filters. 10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the cationic surfactant contained in the continuous aqueous phase is chosen from the group formed by: a) tetraalkylammonium halides; b) stearamidopropy1-dimethyl1 (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride of formula:

c) a quaternary ammonium salt of formula:

in which Rg denotes a mixture of alkenyl and / or C 1 -alkyl radicals derived from tallow fatty acids. 11. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the quaternized protein is chosen from the group formed by: a) animal protein hydrolysates bearing on the polypeptide chain quaternary ammonium groups comprising at least one radical - C ^ alkyl; b) animal protein hydrolysates carrying trimethylbenzyl ammonium groups; c) collagen hydrolysates carrying triethyl ammonium groups; d) collagen hydrolysates carrying trimethylammonium and trimethylstearylammonium groups; e) a quaternized protein resulting from the condensation of cocamidopropy1-dimethy1-amine on a hydrolysed animal protein. 12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it contains both at least one cationic surfactant and at least one quaternized protein. 13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that it contains on the one hand, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and on the other hand, an animal protein hydrolyzate carrying on the polypeptide chain of quaternary ammonium groups comprising at least one chain r-alkyl, the polypeptide chain having an average molecular weight 189 of about 12,000. 14. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the continuous aqueous phase contains at least one additive taken from the group formed by preservatives, stabilizers, colorants, humectants, softeners, perfumes and thickeners. 15. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 14, containing at least one cationic surfactant, characterized in that the said cationic surfactant has by weight from 0.05 to 10%, preferably 0.1 at 6% of the total weight of the composition. 16. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 15, containing at least one quaternized protein, characterized in that the said quaternized protein represents by weight from 0.05 to 3%, preferably from 0.05 to 0.5% of the total weight of the composition. 17. A method of treating the hair and scalp, characterized in that 20 to 40 g of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 16 are applied to the head, which are left in contact for 1 to 15 mn, then rinse with water. 18. A method of treating the hair and scalp, characterized in that 5 to 10 g of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 16 are applied to the head.