LU85863A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR THE TREATMENT OF HAIR, ESPECIALLY OILY HAIR, BASED ON MILLEFEUILLE EXTRACT (ACHILEA MILLEFOLIUM L) - Google Patents

Description

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The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the treatment of hair, in particular oily hair, containing a dry extract of yarrow (Achillea millefolium L) obtained by oxidation of a hydroalcoholic extract of flowering tops of yarrow.

5 Different extracts of yarrow have already been proposed in the treatment of hair.

Thus, French Patent No. 78.22837 describes the use of an extract of millefeuille rich in polyphenolic derivatives from the group of flavonoids in the manufacture of blonding shanpooings.

The process for preparing this extract according to this patent must be carried out under conditions such that no degradation of the particularly heat-sensitive polyphenolic derivatives takes place.

Yarrow essential oil, which is a volatile oil, has also been recommended by various cosmetic authors in the treatment of oily skin and in the treatment of seborrhea of the hair, the essential oil of yarrow having antiseptic and anti properties -inflammatory due to the presence of a relatively high percentage of azulene.

The essential oil of yarrow is essentially composed of azulene, aeti-pinene, caryophyllene, borneol, terpineol, cineole, bornyl acetate and other volatile compounds of various structures.

The use of yarrow extracts, in particular hydroalcoholic extracts, has hitherto raised certain difficulties insofar as it has been found to have a sensitizing action in certain subjects causing allergy phenomena (see "Encyclopedia of common natural ingredients used in Food Drugs and Cosmetics" by Albert Y.

LEUNG, Wiley, 1980 p.326).

After numerous studies on hydroalcoholic extracts of yarrow, it has been surprisingly found that these allergenic properties can be reduced or even eliminated by subjecting the hydroalcoholic extraction solutions to an oxidizing treatment.

The dry extracts of millefeuille obtained after this treatment have no sensitizing power but nevertheless retain their particular properties in the treatment of the greasy appearance of the hair by imparting suppleness and shine to the hair.

It was feared that by subjecting the hydroalcoholic extracts of yarrow to an oxidizing treatment in order to remove the sensitizing power, this treatment would simultaneously cause a deterioration of the active principles in the treatment of oily hair. However, the tests carried out have made it possible to show that this activity was preserved or even reinforced.

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The dry extracts of yarrow after oxidation are essentially characterized by a very low content of polyphenolic derivatives and by the absence of polysaccharide polymers and essential oil.

The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for the treatment of hair, in particular oily hair, containing in a suitable vehicle at least one dry extract of yarrow (Achillea millefolium L), non-allergenic, obtained by oxidation of a solution hydroalcoholic extraction, flowering tops of millefeuille, said extract containing less than 0.5% by weight of polyphenolic derivatives.

10 It is assumed that the sensitizing properties of the dry extract of yarrow are due to the polyphenolic derivatives (Flavonoids) present and which are essentially umbelliferone, luteolin, and vapigenin.

In the dry extract of yarrow before oxidation, the percentage of polyphenolic derivatives is indeed around 5¾ whereas after oxidation 15 this percentage is less than 0.5¾ and more particularly 0.3¾.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium L) is a herbaceous plant in the family Conposidae (conpositae-anthemidae), perennial, with an aromatic odor 40 to 90cm high with leaves abundantly divided into narrow segments (which gives the illusion that they are multiple, hence the name of millefeuille) 20 and with white flowers sometimes pink.

The dry extract of millefeuille used in the compositions according to the invention is obtained from flowering tops in the fresh state or in the dry state, in raw form or possibly previously ground.

The process consists in infusing the flowering tops 25 in water and then filtering, after cooling, the aqueous solution. The solid residue is then taken up in a lower aliphatic alcohol having from 1 to 3 carbon atoms such as methanol and after filtration, the aqueous solution and the methanolic solution are mixed giving a cloudy solution of brownish-greenish color.

The hydroalcoholic solution is then subjected to an oxidizing treatment using in particular sodium hypochlorite at room temperature.

Filtration is then carried out and the dry extract is obtained by evaporation, atomization or lyophilization.

The dry extract obtained after treatment with sodium hypochlorite contains a certain proportion of sodium chloride which can be eliminated but it has been found that the dry extract as obtained by the process described above could be used as which in the compositions for the treatment of oily hair.

In the compositions according to the invention, the dry extract of mille-40 feuille, expressed as dry matter, is present at a concentration

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The vehicle of the compositions can be water, an alcohol having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol or a hydroalcoholic mixture. These compositions can be in the form of a lotion, an emulsion, a gel, a foam or an aerosol.

When the vehicle is a hydroalcoholic mixture, the alcohol is present in an amount between 10 and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the aqueous compositions is generally understood to be between 3 and 10 and preferably between 5 and 7.

The cosmetic hair compositions according to the invention may optionally contain the dry extract of yarrow (Achillea millefolium L), as defined above, as a mixture with other compounds known to combat the oily and unsightly appearance of the hair. .

The cosmetic hair compositions, according to the invention, may optionally contain the dry extract of yarrow (Achillea millefolium L) as defined above, in mixture with other treatment agents to obtain a particular cosmetic effect.

Particularly advantageous results are obtained with a water-soluble polymer of the polyamide type and more particularly of poly β-alanine containing from 50 to 100% of C 1 -CCHg CONH units and from 0 to 50% of CHg-CH units (see Belgian patent 893.738) conh2 25 The cosmetic hair compositions according to the invention can be in the form of shanpooing, rinsing lotion, cream, shaping lotion such as styling lotions, brushing lotions , in the form of lacquers or in the form of treatment products which can be applied before or after coloring or discoloration, before or after sham-30 pooing, before or after permanent or straightening.

When the hair compositions according to the invention are in the form of a shanpooing they also contain one or more surface-active agents. These surfactants can be anionic, nonionic, cationic, anphoteric or a mixture of the latter.

In these shampoos the concentration of surfactant is generally between 3 and 50% by weight and preferably between 3 and 20%, the pH is generally between 3 and 10.

When the hair compositions according to the invention are in the form of rinse-off lotions, they may be aqueous or hydroalcoholic solutions, emulsions, thickened lotions or gels.

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When the compositions are in the form of emulsions, they can be nonionic or anionic. The nonionic emulsions consist mainly of a mixture of oil and / or fatty alcohol, and of polyethoxylated alcohol such as stearyl alcohols or polyethoxylated cetyl stearyl alcohols.

5 Cationic surfactants can be added to these compositions.

Anionic emulsions are mainly made from soaps.

When the compositions are in the form of thickened lotions or gels, they contain thickeners in the presence or not of solvents.

The thickeners that can be used can be sodium alginate or gum arabic or cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, hydro-xymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydro-xypropylmethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose. It is also possible to obtain a thickening of the lotions by mixing polyethylene glycol and stearate or polyethylene glycol distearate or by a mixture of phosphoric ester and amide. The thickener concentration can vary from 0.5 to 30¾ by weight and advantageously from 0.5 to 15¾ by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 5¾. The pH of the lotions to be rinsed varies essentially between 3 and 9 and preferably between 4.5 and 7.5.

When the hair compositions according to the invention are in the form of styling lotions, shaping lotions, so-called styling lotions, brushing or lacquers, these lotions generally contain in aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic solution. dry extract of Achillea millefolium L as well as possibly polymers.

Among the polymers which can be used, mention may in particular be made of: polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, copolymers of vinyl acetate and of an unsaturated carboxylic acid such as crotonic acid, the resulting copolymers of the polymerization of vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and an acrylic or methacrylic ester, the copolymers resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl acetate and an alkyl vinyl ether, and the copolymers resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and a vinyl ester of a long carbon chain acid, or an allylic or methallylic ester of a long carbon chain acid, their concentration varying between 0.1 and 5¾ by weight of the total weight of the composition.

A form of hair composition according to the invention, which is particularly preferred, consists of an aqueous-alcoholic leave-in lotion containing from 1 to 70% by weight of ethyl alcohol, and containing 0.02 to 3% of dry extract of yarrow such as defined above.

According to another particularly preferred embodiment la *. - 5 - k hair composition is constituted by a non-rinsed hydroalcoholic lotion containing from 1 to 70% by weight of ethyl alcohol and containing 0.02 to 3% of dry extract of Millefeuille as defined above and of 0.01 3%, and preferably 1% by weight, of poly 8-alanine.

5 These compositions can also be pressurized as an aerosol. As propellant, carbon dioxide, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, volatile hydrocarbons such as butane, isobutane, propane and preferably chlorinated or fluorinated hydrocarbons can be used.

The compositions according to the invention can contain any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics, such as perfumes, dyes, preserving agents, sequestering agents, thickening agents, softening agents, synergists and / or foam stabilizers, sunscreens, peptizing agents, fatty alcohols, waxes.

I5 The invention will be better understood using the following non-limiting examples in which, unless otherwise stated, the parts and percentages are by weight.

Preparation of the dry extract of mille-feuille (Achillea millefolium L) 1) Preparation of the hydromethanolic extract 20 An infusion is made by pouring 1 liter of boiling demineralized water onto 150 g of flowering tops of mille-feuille previously sprayed. After homogenization, it is left to stand until cooling, which requires a tenps of approximately 3 hours.

It is then filtered through a sintered glass under vacuum and 2525 ml of a brown aqueous solution are thus obtained.

The solid filtration residue is then mixed with 300 ml of methanol. After stirring, the residue is filtered, which is then washed twice successively with 100 and 200 ml of methanol.

580 ml of a cloudy methanolic solution (colloidal precipitate) of greenish-brown color are thus obtained.

The aqueous solution and the methanolic solution are then mixed.

2) Oxidizing treatment 630 ml of the hydromethanolic solution obtained in the first step are then treated with 100 ml of sodium hypochlorite, titrating 10 to 13 ° chloromé-35 trique containing about 3,5¾ of active chlorine.

Agglomeration and the formation of a precipitate are then observed, but the supernatant solution is not discolored.

The addition of sodium hypochlorite is then continued until the color changes to orange which requires the additional addition of 40,530 ml of sodium hypochlorite.

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The solution is then left to stand for 24 hours at room temperature. From the start of the rest period, there is a sedimentation of a precipitate and the persistence of the brown color of the supernatant solution. After the resting period, it is filtered on paper and the brown brown solution is then evaporated to dryness under reduced pressure on a rotary evaporator.

57_J5 £ of dry extract of "oxidized" yarrow are thus obtained.

The characteristics of this extract are as follows: - absorbance at 450nm (0.2¾ aqueous solution) ...... 0.06 10 - sulfuric ash (g /%) ........... ............... 94 - N. Total (g /%) ......................... .......... Qj5 - total sugars (g /%) .......... 3 5 - free glucose + fructose (g /%) ......... .......... 0.9 - polyphenolic derivatives (g /%) ..................... 0.2 15 - formic acid ( g /%) .......... ^ ~ 33 - acetic acid (g /%) ......... _ g - glycolic acid (g /%) ...... ................... i By way of comparison, the dry extract of mille-feuille obtained in 1) above, after evaporation to dryness of the hydromethanolic solution, has 20 the following characteristics: - absorbance at 450nm, (0.2% aqueous solution) .... 0.27 - sulfuric ash (g /%) ................. ....... 23 - Total N. (g /%) ............... 2 4 - total sugars (g /%) .., ..... ... ...... 15 25 - free glucose + fructose (g /%) .................. 3.8 - polyphenolic derivatives (g /% ) .................... 5 - aci formic (g /%) .........................- "o, 35 - acetic acid (g /%) ..... .................... K 0.2 - glycolic acid (g /%) .................. ..... <- o, 2

30 COMPOSITION EXAMPLES

EXAMPLE 1

A leave-in hair conditioning lotion for greasy hair is prepared using the following ingredients: - polyvinylpyrrol isone / vinyl acetate copolymer (60/40%) ............. ..................... ga2g - ethyl alcohol ......................... ........ 45g - dry extract of Achillea millefolium L "oxidized ...... 2g - preservative ....................... .............. 0.2g - dye ............................... .......... 0.2g BSB / JD / AO / 30644

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A non-rinsed hair lotion for oily hair is prepared using the following ingredients: - dry extract of Achillea mille-folium L "oxidized" ..... Ig - Poly ß-alanine ....... ............................ 0.5g * - ethyl alcohol ............... .................. 45g - colorant ................. ............ ........... 0.2g 10 - preservative ................................. .... 0.2g - pH = 6 - Water qs .................................... ... 100g EXAMPLE 3

A rinsing gel for oily hair is prepared using the following ingredients: - carboxymethylcellulose ........................... 3g - extract dry Achillea millefolium L "oxidized" ..... 1.5g - preservative ............................... ...... 0.3g - dye ....................................... .. 0.2g 20 - pH = -5 - Water qs .................................... ... 100g EXAMPLE 4

A shanpooing preparation for oily hair is prepared using the following ingredients: 25 - nonionic surfactant obtained according to Example 1 of French Patent No. 71.17206 ..... 10g by condensation of 3.5 moles of glycidol on a diol in C11 'C14 - dry extract of Achillea millefolium L "oxidized" ..... 5g 30 - preservative ...................... ............... 0.2g - dye .............................. ........... 0.2g - pH = 5 - Water qs ............................. .......... 100g

Claims (11)

1. Cosmetic composition for the treatment of hair, especially oily hair, characterized in that it contains in a suitable vehicle at least one dry extract of yarrow (Achillea millefolium L), δ non-allergenic, obtained by oxidation of a hydroalcoholic solution for extracting flowering tops, said extract containing less than 0.5% by weight of polyphenolic derivatives. * 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the dry extract of yarrow contains less than 0.3¾ by weight of 10 polyphenolic derivatives. 3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the dry extract is obtained by oxidation, using sodium hypochlorite, of an aqueous-alcoholic extraction solution, at room temperature. 4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydroalcoholic extraction solution is a hydromethanolic solution obtained by infusion in water of flowering tops and treatment of the residue with methanol. 5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dry extract of yarrow, expressed as dry matter, is present at a concentration of between 0.02 and 5¾ by weight and preferably between 0 , 05 and 2¾ by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the vehicle is water, an alcohol having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a hydroalcoholic mixture. 7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in aqueous form =, and has a pH of between 3 and 10 and preferably between 5 and 7. 8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one surfactant, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric or a mixture of these in a proportion included between 3 and 50% by weight and preferably between 3 and 20%, said composition having a pH of between 3 and 10. 9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a non-rinsed hydroalcoholic lotion containing from 1 to 70% by weight of ethyl alcohol and containing from 0.02 to 3% dry extract of yarrow. 10. Cosmetic composition according to claim 9, characterized in that it additionally contains from 0.01 to 3% by weight of poly ß-alanine k "· '- 9 -" * and preferably 1% by weight . 11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one cosmetic ingredient such as a perfume, a colorant, a preservative, a sequestering agent, a thickening agent, a polymer, a softening agent, a synergist and / or a foam stabilizer, a sunscreen, a peptizing agent, a fatty alcohol or a wax.