KR930010796B1 - Method for preparation of nylon spunlike and woven - Google Patents
Method for preparation of nylon spunlike and woven Download PDFInfo
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- KR930010796B1 KR930010796B1 KR1019910023479A KR910023479A KR930010796B1 KR 930010796 B1 KR930010796 B1 KR 930010796B1 KR 1019910023479 A KR1019910023479 A KR 1019910023479A KR 910023479 A KR910023479 A KR 910023479A KR 930010796 B1 KR930010796 B1 KR 930010796B1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
- D02J1/00—Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
- D02J1/08—Interlacing constituent filaments without breakage thereof, e.g. by use of turbulent air streams
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/292—Conjugate, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, fibres or filaments
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/43—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with differing diameters
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
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- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- Fluid Mechanics (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
본 발명은 세섬도 나이론 멀티필라멘트를 잔류신도가 높게 냉연신한 후, 이것을 잔류신도가 낮게 열연신한 일반 나이론 멀티필라멘트와 에어 인터레이싱(Air Interlacing)하여 제조한 이섬도 혼섬사를 경사로하고 잔류 신도가 경사보다 낮게 열연신한 후 에어인터레이싱한 세섬도 나이론 멀티필라멘트를 위사로하여 고밀도로 제직, 카렌더링한 것으로서, 나이론의 특성인 형태안정성과 내공기투과성이 우수하고 스펀라이크(Spun-like)한 외관 및 촉감을 발휘하는 나이론 스펀라이크직물 및 그 제조방법에 관한 것이다.According to the present invention, after the cold drawing of the fine fine nylon multifilament with high residual elongation, and the low elongation of the fine nylon multifilament, the intermodal horn fine yarn manufactured by air interlacing is inclined and the residual elongation is inclined. It is a high-density weaving and calendering of sesame which is heat interlaced and then air interlaced with nylon multifilament, and has excellent shape stability, air permeability, spun-like appearance and characteristics of nylon. It relates to a nylon spun-like fabric exhibiting a touch and a method of manufacturing the same.
종래 스포오츠용 스펀라이크직물의 소재는 폴리에스터, 나이론/폴리에스터복합사 등을 사용하여 경사는 일반사를, 위사는 가연(False twist), 에어인터레이싱, 연신가연사 등을 사용하여 왔다. 그러나, 폴리에스터만으로 제조된 제품은 촉감은 좋으나, 강력과 작업성이 뒤지며, 나이론/폴리에스터 복합사의 경우, 불환전 분리 및 염색가공상의 어려움등의 문제가 있다.Conventionally, the spun-like fabric for the spouts has been made of polyester, nylon / polyester composite yarn, etc., and warp yarns have been used with false twist, air interlacing, stretched twist yarn, and the like. However, products made of polyester alone have a good feel, but are poor in strength and workability, and in the case of nylon / polyester composite yarns, problems such as non-exchange separation and dyeing are difficult.
한편, 나이론은 강력과 작업성이 우수한 장점에도 불구하고 부드러움과 따뜻함이 부족한 단점이 있다.On the other hand, nylon has a disadvantage of lack of softness and warmth despite the advantages of excellent strength and workability.
예를 들면, 다운 쟈켓(Down Jacjet)과 같은 방한 소재는 강력과 내공기투과성이 우수한 나이론이 주종을 이루고 있으나 나이론은 딱딱한 느낌의 촉감을 주며 가공사가 아닌 일반 필라멘트사로 제직된 직물은 활동시 바스락거리는 소리가 나는 단점이 있다.For example, cold weather materials such as Down Jacjet are predominantly made of nylon, which has strong strength and air permeability, but nylon gives a firm feel to the texture. There is a drawback to sound.
따라서, 본 발명은 나이론을 사용하여 방한 스포오츠용 직물의 기본 특성을 부여함은 물론, 기존의 폴리에스터나, 나이론/폴리에스터 복합사 제품수준의 우수한 스펀라이크한 외관과 촉감을 발현시키며 활동시 바스락거리는 소리가 나지 않고 구김도 잘 가지 않는 나이론 직물과 그 제조방법을 제공하는데 그 목적이 있다.Therefore, the present invention not only imparts the basic characteristics of the fabric for winter sports sports using nylon, but also expresses excellent spun-like appearance and feel of the existing polyester or nylon / polyester composite yarn products. Its purpose is to provide a nylon fabric that does not have a rustling sound and does not wrinkle well and a method of manufacturing the same.
본 발명을 상세히 설명하면 다음과 같다.The present invention is described in detail as follows.
본 발명은 단사섬도 1.5 데니어 이하, 총 섬도 30~70데니어 인 나이론 멀티필라멘트를 잔류 신도가 40~50%가 되도록 냉연신한 세섬도 나이론 필라멘트(이하 세섬도사)의 잔류 신도 30~38%가 되도록 열연신된 단사 섬도 1~5데이너의 일반 나이론 멀티필라멘트(이하 태섬도사)와를 에어인터레이싱(Air Interlacing)하여 제조한 경사와, 잔류 신도가 상기 경사보다 높도록 냉연신한 후 에어인터레이싱한 단사섬도 1.5데니어 이하의 세섬도 나이론 멀티필라멘트로되어 있는 위사로 이루어진 나이론 고밀도 직물이다. 먼저 경사 준비는 단사 섬도가 1.5 데니어 이하, 바람직하게는 0.48~1.05d이고 총섬도가 30~70데니어인 멀티필라멘트를 잔류신도가 40~50%되게 상온에서 냉연신한 세섬도사와, 단사 섬도가 1~5데니어이고 총섬도가 20~70데니어 인 일반 멀티필라멘트를 잔류 신도가 30~38%되도록 120~160℃로 열연신한 태섬도사를 사용하여 양사를 2~4kg/㎠의 공기압으로 인터레이싱하여 나이론 이섬도 혼섬사를 제조한다.The present invention is hot-rolled to 30 to 38% of the residual elongation of the fine fine nylon filament (hereinafter referred to as sesame yarn) cold drawn to a nylon multifilament having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less and a total fineness of 30 to 70 denier to have a residual elongation of 40 to 50%. Slant made by air interlacing general nylon multifilament (hereinafter referred to as `` Tamsomdosa '') of 1 to 5 days of new single yarn fineness, and single yarn fineness which is air interlaced after cold stretching so that the residual elongation is higher than the above inclined 1.5 Sub-denier sesame is a nylon dense fabric made of weft yarn made of nylon multifilament. First, the preparation of the warp yarn is a fine filament having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 denier or less, preferably 0.48 to 1.05 d and a total fineness of 30 to 70 denier, cold drawn at room temperature so that the residual elongation is 40 to 50%. Nylon multi-rays are interlaced at 2 to 4kg / ㎠ air pressure by using Taesomdosa, which is thermally stretched to 120 ~ 160 ℃ for 30 ~ 38% of residual elongation of ~ 5 denier and 20 ~ 70 denier total fineness. Isom also manufactures blended yarn.
이때, 상기 태섬도사의 공급속도는 100~200m/min로하고 상기 세섬도사의 과급율(OVER FEED)은 태섬도사의 0.5%로하며, 전체 이섬도 혼섬사의 총섬도중 세섬도사가 45~60%가 되도록 한다.At this time, the supply speed of the Taesumdosa is 100 ~ 200m / min and the over-feed rate of the threesomedosa is 0.5% of the Taisumdosa, 45-60% of the total islands of the total islands To be
위사는 단사섬도가 0.48~1.05d이고 총섬도가 40~70데니어 인 나이론 멀티필라멘트를 잔류 신도가 40~50% 되도록 상온에서 냉연신한 후, 300~400m/min의 속도와 0.5~2kg/㎠의 압력으로 에어인터레이싱 한 것을 사용한다.After weaving nylon multifilament with single yarn fineness of 0.48 ~ 1.05d and total fineness of 40 ~ 70 denier at room temperature so that residual elongation is 40 ~ 50%, the speed of 300 ~ 400m / min and 0.5 ~ 2kg / ㎠ Use air interlaced by pressure.
본 발명에서 경사 제조시에 세섬도사의 잔류 신도를 태섬도사의 그것보다 1.05~1.67배가 되도록 한 이유는 봉제 후 제품이 수축 이완될 경우 열 고정된 태섬도사보다 세섬도사가 직물 표면에 뜨게 함으로써 스펀라이크한 감을 나타내게 하기 위함이며, 교락수 130~160개/m 및 위사보다 크기가 작은 크림프를 얻을 수 있어서, 고밀도 제직에 유리하기 때문이다.In the present invention, the reason why the residual elongation of the sesame sand yarn in the present invention is 1.05 to 1.67 times higher than that of the tassum sand yarn is that when the product shrinks and relaxes after sewing, the sesame sand yarn is floated on the surface of the fabric rather than the heat-set tassum yarn. This is for showing a feeling, and since crimps smaller than 130-160 pieces / m and weft yarns can be obtained, it is advantageous for high-density weaving.
또한 본 발명에서 혼섬사의 잔류 신도를 냉연신된 위사보다 적게한 이유는 제품에서 감촉을 위사로 유도하기 위한 것이고 활동시 위사쪽 늘어남을 고려, 봉제품의 요척증대를 재고한 것이다. 그리고 본 발명에서 경사중의 태섬도사를 열연신하는 것은 앞서 설명한 사실외에도 사가공, 제직등의 작업성 향상과 제품의 형태안정성의 증대로 활동 및 세탁시 극세 멀티필라멘트에 의한 변형을 막기 위한 것이다.In addition, in the present invention, the reason why the residual elongation of the blended yarn is less than that of the cold drawn weft is to induce the texture of the product to the weft, and in consideration of the increase in the weft side during the activity, it is reconsidered the urinary increase of the sewing product. In addition to the facts described above, the thermal stretching of the insulated Taesomdo yarn in the present invention is intended to prevent deformation caused by the ultra-fine multifilament during activities and washing by improving workability such as machining, weaving, etc. and increasing the shape stability of the product.
본 발명에서 혼섬사에 대한 세섬도사의 섬도비가 45% 미만이면 스펀라이크한 효과가 적어 촉감이 떨어지고 60%를 초과하면 제품의 스펀라이크한 외관은 있으나 인터레이싱시 작업성이 저하되고 제품의 형태안정성이 문제가 된다. 또한, 본 발명에서 단사섬도가 1데니어 미만이면 이섬 혼섬이 무의미하고 3데니어를 초과하면 부드러움 및 따뜻한 감촉이 떨어진다.In the present invention, when the fineness ratio of sesame yarn to horn fiber is less than 45%, the spun-like effect is less, and the touch is less than 60%. The spun-like appearance of the product has a spun-like appearance, but the workability during interlacing decreases and the shape stability of the product. This is a problem. In addition, in the present invention, if the single yarn fineness is less than 1 denier, the islet blend is meaningless, and if it exceeds 3 denier, the softness and warm texture are inferior.
또 본 발명에서 에어인터레이싱시, 경사인 혼섬사의 공급속도를 위사보다 30~65%로 적게하고 공기압을 크게한 것은 경사는 교락수를 100~200개/m가 되도록하고 위사는 35~90개/m로하여 제직 및 가공 작업성과 제품의 형태안정성을 얻기 위한 것이다.In the present invention, when the air interlacing, the feed rate of the blended yarn is inclined 30-65% less than the weft yarn and the air pressure is increased so that the slope is the number of interlocking 100-200 / m and the weft yarn 35-90 / m to achieve weaving and machining workability and product shape stability.
경사의 교락수가 100개/m 미만이면 경제성 및 작업성이 저하되고 200개/m를 초과하면 스펀감이 떨어진다. 위사의 경우 정련등의 가공 후, 제품상에서 교락수가 30~50개/100m로 풀려, 경사쪽에 대한 스펀감의 보완을 해줄 수 있다. 상술한 바와 같이 제조한 경, 위사가 준비되면 230~300T의 고밀도로 제직, 가공하여 20~100℃의 온도에서 칼렌더링하여 제조한다.If the number of intersections of the slopes is less than 100 / m, the economical efficiency and workability are lowered. In the case of the weft, after processing such as refining, the number of entangled in the product is loosened to 30 ~ 50 / 100m, it can supplement the spun feeling on the inclined side. When prepared as described above, the weft yarn is prepared by weaving and processing at a high density of 230 ~ 300T, calendering at a temperature of 20 ~ 100 ℃.
본 발명은 신축성이 다른 경, 위사를 사용하여 활동성 및 착용감이 우수하고 경, 위사가 모두 에어인터레이싱되어 있으므로 작업성 증대 및 스펀감 효과가 우수하며, 나이론만으로 이루러져 나이론 특유의 물성으로 제품의 형태안정성 및 내공기투과성이 뛰어나므로 오리털 제품, 스키 쟈켓, 윈드 브레이커(WIND BREAKER)등 스포츠 및 케쥬얼 의류에 널리 사용될 수 있다.The present invention is excellent in activity and fit by using the weft and weft yarn with different elasticity, and both the weft and weft yarn are air interlaced, so the workability is increased and the spun feeling effect is excellent. Due to its excellent form stability and air permeability, it can be widely used in sports and casual clothing such as duck down products, ski jackets and wind breakers.
[실시예 1]Example 1
70d/96f의 나이론 6멀티필라멘트를 잔류신도 45%로 상온에서 냉연신한 세섬도사와 50d/24f 나이론 6멀티필라멘트를 잔류신도 36%로 140℃에서 열연신한 태섬도사와를 인터레이싱하되, 태섬도사의 속 180m/min, 공기압 3.5kg/㎠, 세섬도사의 오버피드 0%로 인터레이싱하여 경사를 마련하였다.Interlacing sesame yarn cold drawn at 70 ° C for nylon 6 multifilament with residual elongation at 45% and tassom yarn hot drawn at 140 ° C with 50d / 24f nylon 6 multifilament at 36% residual elongation, The slope was prepared by interlacing at 180 m / min in speed, 3.5 kg / cm 2 of air pressure, and 0% of overfeed of fine fine yarn.
상기 경사와 70d/96f인 나이론 6멀티필라멘트를 잔류신도 45%로 상온에서 냉연신 후 속도 300m/min, 공기압 1kg/㎠로 인터레이싱한 위사를 사용하여 고밀도의 평직으로 제직 후 일반적인 방법으로 가공하고 50℃에서 칼런더링했다. 최종 제품의 외관, 촉감, 염색성은 관능 검사에 의해 4등급으로 구분하여 표 1에 나타내었다.After weaving the nylon 6 multifilament with the inclination and 70d / 96f at a residual elongation of 45% at room temperature, weaving into a high-density plain weave using a weft interlaced at a speed of 300m / min and an air pressure of 1kg / ㎠ It was calendered at 50 degreeC. Appearance, touch and dyeability of the final product are shown in Table 1 divided into four grades by the sensory test.
(◎ : 가장 우수, ○ : 우수, △ : 보통, × : 불량)(◎: Best, ○: Excellent, △: Normal, ×: Poor)
[비교예 1]Comparative Example 1
실시예 1과 동일한 방법으로 하되 세섬도사 대신 70d/34f 나이론 6멀티필라멘트를 사용하였다.In the same manner as in Example 1, 70d / 34f nylon 6 multifilament was used in place of sesame yarn.
[비교예 2]Comparative Example 2
실시예 1과 동일한 방법으로 하되 세섬도사로 단사섬도가 0.2d이고 나이론-폴리에스터의 복합비가 50 : 50인 8분할형 복합사를 사용하여 제조하고 최종 제품의 염색 전에 벤질 알콜을 사용하여 상기 복합사를 분할시키고 염색 및 가공하였다.The same method as in Example 1, but was prepared using an 8-divided composite yarn having a fine yarn fineness of 0.2d with a fine fineness of 0.2d and a nylon-polyester ratio of 50:50, and using benzyl alcohol before dyeing the final product. The yarns were split, dyed and processed.
[표 1]TABLE 1
[실시예 2]Example 2
50d/90f로 용융방사하여 얻은 나이론 6멀티필라멘트를 잔류신도 43%로 상온에서 냉연신한 세섬도사와 50d/24f나이론 6멀티필라멘트를 잔류신도 37%로 140℃에서 열연신한 태섬도사와를 인터레이싱시키되 태섬도사의 속도 150m/min, 세섬도사의 오버피드율 0으로하고 공기압을 표 2와 같이 변경하면서 인터레이싱하여 경사를 마련하였다.Interlace the sesame yarn cold drawn at room temperature with 43% of residual elongation of nylon 6 multifilament obtained by melt spinning at 50d / 90f, and the Taesumdosa hot-drawn at 140 ° C with 50d / 24f nylon 6 multifilament at 37% of residual elongation. The inclination was prepared by interlacing with the speed of 150m / min of Taesomdosa and the overfeed rate of Sesomdosa 0 and changing the air pressure as shown in Table 2.
상기 경사와 70d/96f인 나이론 6멀티필라멘트를 잔류신도 43%로 상온에서 냉연신 후 속도 300m/min 공기압 1kg/㎠로 인터레이싱한 위사를 사용하여 평직의 고밀도로 제직 후 일반적인 방법으로 가공하고 50℃에서 칼렌더링했다. 최종 제품의 품질을 외관, 촉감, 형태안정성, 제직성의 순서로 표 2에 나타내었다.After weaving the nylon 6 multifilament with the inclination and 70d / 96f at 43% of the residual elongation at room temperature, weaving it with a high density of plain weave using a weft interlaced at 300m / min air pressure 1kg / ㎠ It was calendered at ℃. The quality of the final product is shown in Table 2 in the order of appearance, touch, shape stability and weaving.
[비교예 3]Comparative Example 3
실시예 2와 같이 하되 태섬도사의 속도를 80m/min으로하고 공기압을 각각 1, 3, 5kg/㎠으로 했다.It carried out similarly to Example 2, but set the speed of Taesomdosa to 80 m / min, and made the air pressure into 1, 3, 5 kg / cm <2>, respectively.
[비교예 4][Comparative Example 4]
실시예 2와 같이 하되 태섬도사의 속도를 300m/min으로하고 공기압을 각각 1, 3, 5kg/㎠으로 했다.It carried out similarly to Example 2, but set the speed of Taesomdosa to 300 m / min, and made the air pressure into 1, 3, 5 kg / cm <2>, respectively.
[표 2]TABLE 2
상기 평가는 외관 → 촉감 → 형태안정성 → 제직성 순임.The evaluation was in order of appearance → touch → shape stability → weaving.
[실시예 3]Example 3
37d/72f로 용융방사하여 얻은 나이론 6멀티필라멘트를 잔류신도 40%로 상온에서 냉연신한 세섬도사와 50d/24f 나이론 6멀티필라멘트를 잔류신도 34%로 150℃에서 열연신한 태섬도사와를 인터레이싱하되 태섬도사의 속도 180m/min, 공기압 3.5kg/㎠, 세섬도사의 오버피드 0%로 인터레이싱하여 경사를 마련하였다. 상기 경사를 70d/122f인 나이론 6멀티필라멘트를 잔류신도 40%로 상온에서 열연신 후 속도 300m/min, 공기압을 0.5, 1, 3kg/㎠로 변경하면서 인터레이싱한 위사와 평직의 고밀도로 제직 후 일반적인 방법으로 가공하고 50℃에서 칼렌더링했다.Interlacing sesame yarn cold drawn at room temperature with nylon 6 multifilament obtained by melt spinning at 37d / 72f at 40% of elongation, and tasman yarn hot drawn at 150 ° C with 50d / 24f nylon 6 multifilament at 34% residual elongation, The slope was prepared by interlacing at a speed of 180 m / min, air pressure of 3.5 kg / cm 2, and an overfeed of 0% of the fine island thread. After stretching the nylon 6 multifilament having the inclination of 70d / 122f to 40% of the residual elongation at room temperature, weaving it with high density of interlaced weft and plain weave while changing the speed 300m / min, air pressure to 0.5, 1, 3kg / ㎠ Processed in the usual way and calendered at 50 ° C.
[비교예 5][Comparative Example 5]
실시예 3과 같이 하되 위사의 인터레이싱시의 공급 속도를 100m/min으로 했다.In the same manner as in Example 3, the feed rate at the time of interlacing the weft yarn was 100 m / min.
[비교예 6]Comparative Example 6
실시예 3과 같이 하되 위사의 인터레이싱시의 공급 속도를 500m/min으로 했다.As in Example 3, the feed rate at the time of interlacing the weft yarn was 500 m / min.
[표 3]TABLE 3
상기 평가는 외관 → 촉감 → 제직성 순임.The evaluation was in order of appearance → touch → weaving.
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KR1019910023479A KR930010796B1 (en) | 1991-12-19 | 1991-12-19 | Method for preparation of nylon spunlike and woven |
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