KR910007983B1 - New device for manufacturing clothes or fitted and curved wrappers means of pivots - Google Patents

Abstract

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Description

New cutting methods for tight or curved tops or coats

1 to 3 are plan views of patterns showing three panels of a conventional method.

4 is a plan view of a pattern showing a sewing operation of the conventional method.

5 and 6 are plan views of patterns showing a method of dimensioning cloth by the method of the present invention.

7 is a plan view of a pattern showing the principle of making lines of decorative holes by the method of the present invention.

8 is a plan view of a pattern cut through a decorative hole of the method of the present invention.

9 is a plan view of a pattern in which the panels of the present invention are pivoted.

10 is a side perspective view showing the left side of a top of the method of the present invention.

11 is a plan view of a pattern cut through the decorative hole of the sleeve of the method of the present invention.

12 is a plan view of a pattern that cuts yet another embodiment of the method of the present invention.

* Explanation of symbols for main parts of the drawings

1, 2, 3: Panel 4: Point of Connection

5: arm hole 6: back side of front collar

7, 8: shoulder seam 9: dart

10: ridged slit 11: feather

; 장식구멍)12: The other side of the back color 13: Decupe (

; Hole)

14: pivot 15: piece of cloth

16: shoulder point (s.p.) 17: upper limit point

19: equal length 20: rectangular cloth

21: Upper part of front panel 22 Upper part of fabric piece

23: upper part 24: rectangular cloth

25, 26: Panel 27: Arm Hool

28: reference point 29: points

31: Center part (front) 32: Bottom of the sleeve

33: center part 34: upper sleeve

35: sleeve 36: rectangular cloth

41: Lower part of front panel 43 Lower part of rear panel

45, 46: piece of cloth 47, 48: V-shaped slit

A, B, C, D, E, F: Panel's breakpoint arrow: Panel's turning direction

: 장식구멍)를 만드는 새로운 방법에 관한 것이다.The method of the present invention is particularly important for the fabrication of garments or coats that are highly curved in appearance.

It's about a new way to make holes.

The work is especially designed for industrial purposes, limiting the number of seams so that there is no loss of cloth in the workwear or the cut of the coat, which is sewn to be tight clothing, concave, convex or convex curves. The object of this new invention is to feature a panel of fabric or fabric that is bent or cut to a tight waist by moving the main panels of clothing in a single cut, and then added to the selected piece of fabric to suit its size after moving. Fix using. In fact, up to now, when cutting a lot of curved clothing or work clothes, a piece of a coat that suits a body or object that is made of a sufficient number of pieces of cloth or fabric pieces which are made by sewing pieces of pieces is formed.

In general, the overall dimensions of the cloth are much wider than the dimensions of the finished garment. The excess of the fabric is the part used to tie the pieces of cloth together by sewing or stitching (collage).

Decup was already used to tailor clothes. 1 to 3 illustrate a conventional method, wherein three panels constitute a left side plate of a garment with a tight waist. To complete the garment, two layers of cloth were used to make the right side of the garment. Panels cut to the appropriate shape were sewn and joined at the same length. In order to sew without changing the size of the jacket, the panel of cloth had to be larger than the cutting size of the jacket.

4 shows a sewing operation of the pattern of FIGS. 1 to 3. For example, when sewing along the back length, the left side plate of the top is formed, and by joining it along the contour of the back length, a waist tight waist can be obtained.

In the past, when the left and right plates of the top were joined, they were joined at the seam of the back plate.

To use a lot of fabric pieces that go to the seam, the connection between the two shoulders on the left and right panels is a few centimeters away, and there is a waste of cloth mainly on seams or armholes where the fabric is heavily used. On the other hand, the attaching work requires a professional labor force to increase the value of the clothing.

In addition, the large number of seams also has a significant effect on the strength of the garment.

As a result, it is necessary to apply specially to the form of the garment at the time of manufacture and cannot be easily realized by industrial automation or automatic mechanization.

The present invention seeks to eliminate inconvenience by using a method of cutting most of the garment in one run. Convex curves or tight lines made of small dimensions and pieces of cloth or fabric of appropriate shape appear partially at the turning point.

In the present invention entitled "a new method of cutting a tight or curved top or coat of a waist", cloth, fabric or plastic is conventionally garment or simply theoretical in which the seam surface is removed by simply overlapping seams. In the drawing of the panel, two layers of cloth can be cut using scissors or punches, and convex curves or tight lines can be made and shaped on the garment before sewing, finishing, and folding. Unique cutting method of this figure formed by slit, V-slit, and armhole as the main panels of the jacket move about their reference point to arrange the selected piece of cloth according to the dimension and shape so that It is cut to

The method of the present invention has the following advantages and features.

First, the primary foundation of the overcoat and the top, which is particularly curved in the form of tight, curved and shaped, is very simple.

Second, on the one hand, the number of seams needed to make clothes or coats can be reduced, and on the other hand, the fabric is saved to reduce unnecessary waste of fabric.

Third, skilled workers are required.

Fourth, there is no more turbulence caused by the number of seams, and damage to the fabric is greatly reduced.

Fifth, the time required to make tops and coats, regardless of form or appearance, is greatly saved.

Sixth, the task of automating the creation of a coat or coat is simple.

Seventh, the price is reduced by saving the unit cost for the production of tops, coats and work clothes.

In addition, when the method of the present invention is used to fabricate work clothes that are safe from gas and toxic substances, the impermeability of the garment will be greatly increased. Indeed, the method used in the present invention can be easily applied to the production of workwear made of a sandwich material fabric made of carbon fiber, which is a material of a safe cloth from toxic substances.

In addition, the accompanying drawings in the method of the present invention are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, but will only be easier to understand. Implementations using materials such as fabrics, plastics, refractive wire mesh, paper or sandwich fabrics are also within the scope of the present invention. It is also within the scope of the present invention to manufacture a variety of garments, including cloaks, using the same cutting method, such as double layering, to duplicate and replicate the elastic reference point (axis).

5 and 6 illustrate the first step in the task of accurately dimensioning the fabric needed to make a garment by the method of the present invention.

FIG. 5 shows the task of sizing the fabric used to complete the front plate of the upper garment, and FIG. 6 shows the back of the upper garment.

7 shows the principle of cutting the left and right plates of the top while removing the seam for connecting the sleeves and minimizing the side of the arm hose 5 while using a panel cut in a conventional way. It is. In this embodiment, the overlapped portions when using the arcuate cutting of the top like a pattern are surfaced.

In Fig. 8, the decoupe foundation made after executing the overlapping parts shown in Fig. 7 is shown, and in the arched circular pattern, a new point needed to set the connection point which is the upper limit point of the upper panel is shown. Amhool was drawn and cut.

In FIG. 9, the top panels are pivoted to secure the final shape, while the fabric is arranged in the armhole adjacent to the reference point 14 to allow the fabric to shape the garment.

In FIG. 10, the left side of the half folded top is shown.

FIG. 12 shows another embodiment of the decut and top cut using the same principle of the method of the present invention, wherein the waist tight top is obtained by double turning movement in the left and right directions For example, in relation to the upper and lower parts of the garment, it rotates around the ridge slit that makes the waist tight.

In FIG. 5, a cut of a pattern that can be cut with a minimum of cloth to complete the front of the garment is shown. The pattern on the drawing is borrowed from a conventional top that has no face to be used as a seam and is replaced by a rectangular cloth 20. If cut according to the conventional method, the total length of the rectangular cloth 20 is equal to the length of the top and the length of the seam as well as the width. Therefore, the surface to be used as the seam is a saving part according to the new method of manufacturing without the seam. In the upper part, 21, 31 and 41 are the upper part 21, the center part 31 and the lower part 41 of the front plate, respectively. To complete the pattern, the back side 6 of the front collar is also arranged so that the two patterns meet at the shoulder points (s.p.) 16. And the position of the reference point 14 used as the center point of the front plate of a top in the pattern was set. The shoulder seam (7) (8) becomes the shoulder portion of the top, and is attached to the back plate cut during the manufacture of the top.

In FIG. 6, a back plate (back plate) is shown, and a conventional garment cutting method without a seam cloth is used to determine the minimum face required for fabrication of the back plate. The saving part is the part indicated by the rectangular cloth 20. 23, 33, 43 in FIG. 6 become the upper portion 23, the center portion 33 and the lower portion 43 of the back plate constituting the pattern as in the cutting of this type of top. To make a tight waist without seam, the reference point 14 is positioned at the pelvic line between the center portion 33 and the lower portion 43 of the back plate, or the top of the top collar inclined with the position of the back surface 12 of the back collar. It is possible for each other through movements such as turning the pieces of cloth. In the figure, the rear face 12 of the back collar, which meets at the shoulder point 16, will all be located in the extension beyond the panel when placed in the finished form.

In addition, the description of FIGS. 5 and 6 will provide a methodological criterion for determining the exact fabric dimensions needed to fabricate the garment by the method of the present invention. In addition, the dimension of the determined cloth is carried out by folding in two layers of the left side plate and the right side plate simultaneously and cutting.

In FIG. 7, a method of cutting the deck of the top, left and right plates is shown. In FIG. 7, the panels 1, 2, 3 of the upper garment shown in FIG. 4 are superimposed.

The panels 1, 2, 3 are cut and joined to the dimensions of the conventional top, resulting in an overlap of the panels 1 and 3 by the panel 2. The overlap is shown by the diagonal lines. In order to further save the cloth, the panel 1 and the shoulder points 4 of the panel 3 are in the state of maximum approach, and as a result, the top, center, and bottom of the upper garment have a uniform width 20. Disposed within. Draw and cut the whole on the two layers of fabric so arranged. The first armhool (5) defined at the top of the top, starting from the connection point (4) with the green line and the cut, is shown. The shoulder seam (7) (8) has been laid out in view of the connection point (4) of the upper limit point of the panel (1) and the panel (3), and then afterwards must be arranged in parallel planes, It is the same as the position of the back surface 6. The back side 12 of the back collar is a collar portion which is padded with the same cloth or different cloth or finished at the neck line depending on the production form.

In FIG. 8, as shown in FIG. 7, a line of decoups secured by overlapping the panels 1, 2, 3 of the top is shown. In this figure, which shows the decoups of the left and right plates of the top, an armhool 5 connecting and sleeves starting from the connection point 4 is drawn and cut, and the armhool 5 is a panel 1. It extends to the lower part of the upper part by the decup 13 which connects a piece of cloth, fixing the center point of the panel 3 and it. The center point in the pattern is the reference point 14 of the ridged slit 10 cut to make the waist tight. The reference point 14 will be placed at every center point of the garment when there is a central or upper panel as well as the lower panel that the panels 1 and 3 pivot. Ridge Daat (9) and ridged slit (10) are examples of Daat or Decupe, which allows the waist to fit the body on demand. In addition, the upper panel 2 connects the panel 1 with the panel 3. As a result, as shown in FIG. 7, the back side 6 of the front collar, the back side 12 of the back collar, the shoulder seam 7, 8, and the like are arranged in the following panels 1 and 3 in order to arrange the top to the completed form. It is cut inclined while considering the movement of).

According to an important feature of the invention, the pivoting movement of panels 1 and 3 is shown in FIGS. 9 and 10. According to FIG. 9, the panel 1 and the panel 3 are pivotally moved away from each other at the common reference point 14 like open scissors. FIG. 10 illustrates a state in which the left and right plates of the present embodiment are completed and finally folded.

In FIG. 8, the panel 1 and the panel 3 are connected at the decoup 13 at the line and shoulder joint 4 of the panel 2. FIG. 9 shows the panel 1 pivoting in the direction of the arrow about the reference point 14 located in the ridge slit 10 of the top and the movement for separating the panels. The connection point 4, which is the upper limit point of the arm hool 5, is opened like a decuit 13 which connects the lower limit point of the arm hool 5 to the ridge slit 10 as a movement for separating the gap. With the above movement, the dekupu 13 cut to connect the arm foil 5 and the piece of cloth 15 attached to the seam or the collage is enlarged at the same time. The piece of cloth 15 functions to fix the arrangement of the panels 1 and 3 and to determine the desired appearance. The shape, dimensions, and kind of the fabric pieces 15 added above should be selected in consideration of the desired appearance, the degree of use, and the like.

The present embodiment is not intended to be limiting of the present invention, and the fabric pieces 15 to be attached to the deck 13 have a somewhat elliptical form. The upper limit surface 22 of the piece of cloth 15 was cut out to have a convex shape that completes the holes of the arm hoses 5. The point 17 will be sold to the lower end of the piece of cloth 15 to extend the upper limit of the ridge slit 10 to adjust the clothes to fit the waist.

With the movement of the panels 1, 3 in FIG. 9:

-Place the back surface 12 of the back collar so that the back plate of the top is formed,

-Arrange shoulder seams (7) (8) to make shoulders at each extension line,

Allow the backside 12 of the back collar to be inclined at the extension face of the upper feather 11 so that the button can be attached.

As a result, the equal length 19 is a portion used to connect the upper left and right plates. In the above, the equal length 19 is in an extension line in the right side plate of the connecting top without seam.

In FIG. 9, the ridged daart 9 and the ridged slit 10 are shown, which are used to fit the garment to the waist during gabon.

FIG. 10 shows an example of the left side plate of the top after being folded in half. In the drawing, there is a seamless panel 1 and a panel 3, and the arm hool 5 is elliptical, using a piece of cloth 15 attached to make the appearance of the top, and the back of the front collar. (6) is connected to the back surface 12 of the corresponding back collar, and the back surface of the collar is completed. Finally, shoulder seams (7) (8) are attached to each other in accordance with the size of the clothes. Even when using a piece of cloth 15 in the slit 10, it will be necessary to complete the form with the added piece of cloth 15 and simplify the connection method to enable all shapes. In particular, the pattern of the armhool 5 can be directly attached to the reference point 14 in the ridged slit 10 of the top.

According to another feature of the invention, FIG. 11 shows the principle of making a pattern of the decorative hole of the upper sleeve. Up until now, the manufacture of sleeves required the decorative holes of two rectangular fabrics 24 and 36 to form the top and bottom of the sleeve. The rectangular fabrics 24 and 36 were sewn to length. To measure the size of the cloth needed to cut the sleeve by the new method, use two sleeve samples cut by the existing method, and place the samples side by side to sew to determine the amount of cloth needed for the sleeve opening. In Fig. 11, the upper sleeve 34 and the lower sleeve 35 are drawn in one. Decupé reveals two panels 25, 26 leading from each other at the bottom 32 of the sleeve. In connection, the panels 25 and 26 are pivoted at a reference point 28 or point 29 extending in the length of the armhole 5, and the upper armholes provided in FIG. 9 and FIG. 5) directly. Swivel movement of the panels 25 and 26 makes the already cut hollow arm 27 connected to the sleeve pattern larger. The arm hose 27 is readjusted at the time of sealing.

According to an important feature of the present invention, the arcuate shape of the top can be obtained by turning both the panel 1 and the panel 3, and the left and right side plates of the top are shown in FIG. As shown in Figs. 5 and 6, it was possible to predetermine the minimum amount of cloth required to make the left and right plates of the top. The function of this pattern is to double the cloth to cut the tops of the tops. Also shown in FIG. 12 is the back length 19 just before connection, the back side 6 of the front collar and the back side 12 of the back collar, shoulder seam 7, 8, and the like.

According to the figure, the panel 1 and the panel 3 are connected at the connection point 4 which is the upper limit point of the armhole 5. The reference point 14, which is the center point of the upper panel 1 and the panel 3, is the apex of the cut V-slits 47 and 48 and facilitates the pivoting of the panel 1 and the panel 3. The V-shaped slit 48 connects the pivot shaft 14 and the armhole 5 which is used as the sleeve beak. The completed form of the garment can be obtained by turning the upper ABCD of the garment on the pivot shaft 14. The AD part of the panel 1 opens with the BC part of the panel 3, widens the gap between the connection points 4, and widens the openings of the arm hoses 5 and the V-shaped slits 48, and the like. The DE part and the CF part of the panel 1 and the panel 3 on the upper surface of the axis of the reference point 14, which serves to open the gap between the V-shaped slits 47 already cut. The fabric pieces 45 and 46 are sewn and fixed to the V-shaped slits 47 and 48 in order to pivot the fabric to the desired shape and to make the waist tight. Fabric pieces 45 and 46 are used to suit all shapes and dimensions.

Pieces of cloth 45 and 46 may be horseshoe-shaped in order to outline the convex curved armhool. As shown in FIG. 9, the axis for arranging the shoulder seam lines 7 and 8 arranged side by side so as to be folded is fixed, and the positions of the back side 6 of the collar and the back side 12 of the back collar are respectively extended. Is placed on.

Claims (8)

Fabrics, fabrics or plastics are simply cut using conventional seams without seams, or simply theoretically doubled from the drawing of the panel with scissors or punches, using simple seams. Slit as the main panels of the jacket move around the reference point to create a convex curve or tight line in the garment and place the selected piece of fabric according to its dimensions and shape before sewing and finishing care and folding work. A new method of cutting a tight or curved waist or coat, characterized in that it is cut by the unique cutting method of this figure, which is formed by slits and V-shaped slits and armholes. The waist tight or curved top of claim 1, characterized by juxtaposing the panels 1, 2, 3 in a conventional manner without leaving a seam surface in order to minimize the fabric needed to cut the top. Or a new foundation method of cloak. The waist and neck of claim 1, wherein the left and right plates of the top are folded to simultaneously cut the fabric and draw the left and right plates of the panel 1 and the panel 2 of the top. New Foundation Method of Tops or Coats. The panel (1) and the panel (3) according to claim 1, centered on a reference point (14) placed on and fixed on the panel (circle) which has been cut in a manner used to shape the jacket. ) A new method of cutting of a tight or curved waist or coat, characterized by moving in the direction of the arrow. The movement of the panel (1) and the panel (3) of the phase with respect to the reference point (14) is successive to the armhole (5).

: Waist characterized by a V-shaped slit 47 or a deformed 13 and a V-shaped slit 47 at the lower side of the top at the decorative hole 13 or the reference point 4 A new method of cutting a tight or curved top or coat. 2. The arrangement of the upper panel 1 and the panel 3 is fixed with pieces of cloth 45 and 46 attached to the V-shaped slit 47 or the V-shaped slit 48 and upon final finishing. A new method of cutting of a tight or curved waist or coat characterized by connecting. The method according to claim 1, wherein the fabrication of the top or overcoat by the pivoting of the cut panels is possible by using a reference point 14 positioned on the top of the top or between the panels 1, 2, 3 in the drawing. The reference point 14 is formed on the outer line of the decupe by the V-shaped slit 47 or the V-shaped slit 48 cut to the main dimension as in the case of drafting the sleeve at the reference point 28 of FIG. A new method of cutting a tight or curved waist or coat characterized by the following. The method according to claim 1, wherein the fabric is saved by a method of cutting and cutting the constituent parts of the upper layer consisting of the three panels 1, 2, and 3 at once, and removing the seam surface necessary to make the seam by a conventional method. A new cutting method of a tight or curved waist or coat, characterized in that.

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