KR20220155359A - A cosmetic composition capable of forming a multi-layered structure after being applied to a keratin material containing a combination of silicone resins. - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic composition capable of forming a multi-layered structure after being applied to keratin materials containing a combination of silicone resins, and methods of applying such compositions to keratin materials are provided.

Description

A cosmetic composition capable of forming a multi-layered structure after being applied to a keratin material containing a combination of silicone resins.

CROSS REFERENCES TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is based on and claims the benefit of priority to United States Patent Application Serial No. 16/916,594, filed on June 30, 2020, and French Patent Application 2008714, filed on August 26, 2020, and claims the benefit of priority to these patent applications in their entirety. The content is incorporated herein by reference.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition capable of forming a multi-layered structure after application to keratin materials, containing a combination of silicone resins. Such compositions allow for the benefits associated with multi-layer cosmetics without the need to initiate a multi-step application process.

Many cosmetic compositions, including pigmented cosmetics such as foundations, lipsticks and eye shadows, have been formulated to have long-wear properties upon application. Unfortunately, many of these compositions generally have both good long lasting/transfer resistance properties, as well as good application properties, good comfort properties and/or good appearance properties (e.g., shine or matte properties). do not have

For example, with respect to lip products, commercial products containing silicone resins, such as MQ resins, are known. These products are known to provide good long lasting properties and/or transfer resistance. However, these products have poor application properties, poor tactile feel upon application (e.g., rough feel) and poor shine or gloss properties (e.g., matte appearance) due to the film formed by the MQ resin. Accordingly, a second composition (topcoat) is applied separately to such products to improve the undesirable properties of the composition so that the products are acceptable to the consumer. Additionally, the topcoat composition must be continually reapplied to keep the product in a consumer acceptable state, which means that the product does not effectively last long as it requires constant care and reapplication.

As for foundations, these products can provide good long-lasting properties and/or transfer resistance. However, these long lasting/transfer resistant products may have poor application and/or tactile properties upon application, as well as poor matte properties.

Accordingly, there remains a need for improved "one step" cosmetic compositions having improved cosmetic properties, particularly good durability, feel, radiance, luminosity, and/or matte properties upon application.

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition capable of forming a multi-layered structure after application to keratin materials, wherein the composition comprises at least two immiscible components prior to application, wherein the composition comprises at least one modified MQ resin, at least one It relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising an MQ resin of, and at least a polypropylsilsesquioxane resin. Preferably, the composition further comprises at least one colorant.

The present invention also relates to the treatment of keratin materials (eg skin, hair, eyelashes, nails or lips) by applying to the keratin materials a composition of the present invention in an amount sufficient to treat, condition and/or make up the keratin materials. , how to manage and/or make up.

The present invention also relates to a method of enhancing the appearance of keratin materials (eg, skin, hair, eyelashes, nails or lips) by applying to the keratin materials a composition of the present invention in an amount sufficient to enhance the appearance of the keratin materials. It is about.

The present invention also relates to a method of applying the composition of the present invention to keratin materials (eg, skin, hair, eyelashes, nails or lips), comprising the steps of mixing or blending the composition so that the incompatible components are temporarily miscible. , and an application method comprising applying a composition comprising said temporarily miscible component to keratin materials. After application to the keratin materials, the components separate to form a multi-layered structure on the keratin materials.

The present invention also relates to (1) at least one container; (2) at least one applicator; and (3) a kit comprising at least one composition of the present invention. Preferably, said at least one container is configured to mix incompatible ingredients in at least one composition of the present invention.

It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are illustrative and explanatory only and do not limit the invention.

As used herein, the expression “at least one” means one or more, and thus includes mixtures/combinations as well as individual components.

Except in the working examples or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are understood to be modified by the term "about" which in all cases means within 10% of the indicated number. It should be.

All amounts or percentage concentrations expressed herein refer to amounts or percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As used herein, "immiscible" in the context of "immiscible components" means that the components visually appear as layers in a composition, similar to a mixture of oil and vinegar where the oil and vinegar form separate layers in the composition. means separate. In contrast, emulsions containing oil and water phases do not contain immiscible oil and water components, because the emulsion does not contain visually separate layers.

As used herein, “temporarily miscible” in the context of blending or mixing a composition such that an immiscible component is “temporarily miscible” means that the components do not visually separate into layers after blending or mixing. it means.

As used herein, "film former" or "film forming agent" means a polymer or resin that leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied.

As used herein, "polymer" means a compound composed of at least two monomers.

As used herein, “substituted” means including at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxyl groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, and polysiloxane groups. Substituent(s) may be further substituted.

As used herein, “volatile” means having a flash point of less than about 100° C.

As used herein, “non-volatile” means having a flash point greater than about 100° C.

"Anhydrous" means that the composition contains less than 1% water. Preferably, the composition of the present invention contains less than 0.5% water, and most preferably contains no water.

As used herein, "transfer resistance" refers to the property exhibited by a composition that is not readily removed by contact with another material, such as, for example, glass, an item of clothing, or skin, for example, when eaten or drunk. . Transfer resistance can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating this. For example, the transfer resistance of a composition can be evaluated by a “kiss” test. The "kiss" test is performed after application of the composition to human keratin materials, such as hair, skin or lips, for an amount of time after application, such as 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, rubbing the material, eg, a sheet of paper, into the hair, skin, or lips after expiration of 11, 12, 13, 14, or 15 minutes. Similarly, the transfer resistance of a composition is a measure of the change in the collar from any other substrate, such as an individual's hair, skin, or lips, from the wearer when donning a garment after expiration of a certain amount of time after application of the composition to the hair, skin, or lips. can be evaluated by the amount of product delivered to The amount of composition transferred to the substrate (eg, color or paper) can then be evaluated and compared. For example, if most of the product remains on the wearer's hair, skin, or lips, the composition may be resistant to transfer. Also, the amount delivered can be compared to that delivered by other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, little or no composition is transferred from the hair, skin or lips to the substrate.

As used herein, “adhesion” refers to the property exhibited by a composition that adheres to a substrate after application. Adhesion can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating it. For example, samples to be tested for adhesion properties can be adhered to a surface such as a Bioskin substrate or Byko-Charts Black Scrub Panels P122-1 ON (6.50 x 17.00 inches). After drying, a piece of ASTM cross hatch tape (Permacel 99/PA-28060/51596) is placed over the sample, which can be removed at a 180° angle. Then, it can be measured how many samples are attached to the tape. For example, the extent to which the sample is removed from the substrate to the tape can be assessed using a rating scale, such as a scale of 1-3, where 1 is essentially no removal, 2 is partial removal, and 3 is essentially complete. is the removal

As used herein, the term "rub-off resistance" refers to physical abrasion, such as rubbing a person's skin with a hand or cloth, or other physical interaction. It also has the ability to retain active ingredients on the skin or prevent active ingredients from being removed from skin or substrates such as Byko-Charts Black Scrub Panels P122-10N (6.50 x 17.00 inches) or bioskin by abrasion or other physical interaction. can also be explained as

As used herein, "gloss" in a composition is at least 35 out of 100, such as 40, preferably 45, 55, 60 or 65, measured at 60°, and all ranges and subranges there between. , such as 35-65, 40-65, etc.

The term "average gloss" is defined by applying a layer of the composition to be tested via a 1 mL draw down, using a gloss meter, e.g., between 20 μm and 500 μm in thickness, to a black panel using an automatic spreader. It means gloss that can be measured by spraying. The deposit may be left to dry for a period of time, such as 24 or 48 hours at room temperature, then the gloss is measured at 60° using a Byk Gardner gloss meter in reference microTRI-GLOSS. This measurement (on a scale of 0 to 100) is repeated at least three times, and the average gloss is the average of at least three times.

As used herein, a "long-lasting" composition refers to a composition that retains the same or substantially the same color as when applied to the naked eye, even after a long period of time. Long lasting properties can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, long-term durability can be assessed by a test comprising applying the composition to the skin and evaluating the color of the composition after an extended period of time. For example, the color of a composition can be evaluated immediately after application to the skin, and then these properties can be re-evaluated and compared after a certain amount of time. In addition, these properties can be evaluated relative to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. Alternatively or additionally, long lasting properties can be evaluated by measuring the removal/loss of the sample by applying and drying the sample and then polishing the sample.

The cosmetic compositions and methods of the present invention include the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful for personal care, including those It may consist of, or may consist essentially of.

Compositions capable of forming multi-layered structures

According to various embodiments of the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic composition capable of forming a multi-layered structure after application to keratin materials, containing a combination of silicone resins. Such compositions allow for the benefits associated with multi-layer cosmetics without the need to initiate a multi-step application process. For example, such compositions may be suitable as foundations, primers, eye shadows and other skin compositions, and/or may be suitable as lipsticks, lip glosses, lip balms and other lip compositions.

According to one or more embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least two components, hereinafter referred to as "component A" and "component B". In one or more embodiments, both component A and component B comprise silicon. For example, component A may include a combination of silicone resins. For example, component B may include silicon gum.

Component A is a component of the composition of the present invention which, after application of the composition to the keratin materials, forms the closest multi-layered layer to the keratin materials. This layer of the multi-layer structure is hereinafter referred to as "Layer A". According to a preferred embodiment, component A/layer A has an affinity for the surface of keratin materials due to the surface energy properties between the two.

Component B is a component of the composition of the present invention which forms a multi-layered layer furthest away from the keratin materials after application of the composition to the keratin materials. This layer of the multi-layer structure is hereinafter referred to as "Layer B". According to a preferred embodiment, component B/layer B has an air interface affinity.

According to the present invention, all weight amounts and ratios described herein with respect to component A and component B refer to the amount of active material (ie non-volatile material) in these components. Similarly, all weight amounts and ratios described herein with respect to layers A and B refer to amounts of active material as layers A and B are present after evaporation of the volatile solvent.

Prior to application to the keratin materials, component A and component B are immiscible in the composition of the present invention. Preferably, the incompatibility of the incompatible components is the incompatibility between the two components when the composition is at rest, the incompatibility between the two components after application to keratin materials, or both. all due to

In one or more embodiments, the immiscibility of an immiscible component is due to a difference, such as, for example, viscosity, glass transition temperature, interfacial tension, solubility parameter, density, and/or chemical/structural incompatibility of the component, and/or This is due to differences caused by temperature and/or pressure.

For example, the immiscibility of incompatible components when the composition is at rest may be due to, for example, chemical/structural incompatibility, differences in interfacial tension between the components, such as between phases in mutually compatible solvent(s). differences in interfacial tension in , differences in viscosity, differences in the glass transition temperature of the polymers within each phase, and/or differences caused by temperature and/or pressure.

For example, the incompatibility of the incompatible components when the composition is applied may include, for example, chemical/structural incompatibility, differences in interfacial tension between the components, differences in the density of the components after solvent evaporation, and/or or differences caused by temperature and/or pressure.

In one or more embodiments, immediately prior to and/or during application to the keratin materials, the composition of the present invention is mixed or blended so that component A and component B are temporarily miscible when the composition of the present invention is applied to the keratin materials. do.

After the composition of the present invention is applied to the keratin materials, component A is separated from component B. As the composition dries over the keratin material to which it is applied, the immiscible component A and component B form a multi-layered structure comprising Layer A and Layer B respectively on the keratin material, for example as follows:

According to one or more embodiments of the present invention, after the composition of the present invention is applied to the keratinic material, component B results in a smooth layer B being obtained: ie layer B may have refractive properties that impart brilliance to the composition. It is flat so that According to these embodiments, component B has self-leveling properties: this allows a level layer B to be obtained after application. The brilliance of such compositions can be enhanced, if desired, by the addition of one or more brilliance or gloss enhancers having high refractive index properties. Alternatively, matt properties can be imparted to such compositions by adding one or more mattifying agents.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, after the composition of the invention has been applied to the keratin materials, component B results in a non-flat layer B being obtained: ie layer B is not planar so that it imparts a matte character to the composition. . According to these embodiments, component B does not have self-leveling properties: this results in an uneven layer B after application. The matte properties of these compositions can be enhanced, if desired, by the addition of one or more matting agents. Alternatively, such compositions may be imparted with brilliance or brilliance or gloss properties by the addition of one or more brilliance or brightness or gloss enhancers having high refractive index characteristics. Another advantage of the composition may be that when used as a base layer/primer, the self-leveling properties of the composition may provide a smooth surface to reduce the appearance of skin imperfections.

According to the present invention, the multilayer structure comprises layer A and layer B. In certain cases, depending on factors such as component ratios, component concentrations, solvent evaporation characteristics, and the Tg of the polymer, the layers are slightly mixed with each other after application to the keratin materials, such that layer A contains a higher amount of A and a lower amount of B , and/or layer B may have a higher amount of B and a lower amount of A. Preferably, layer A comprises no more than 40% of layer B, preferably no more than 30% of layer B, preferably no more than 20% of layer B, preferably no more than 10% of layer B, and preferably no more than 10% of layer B up to 5% of and all ranges and subranges there between. Similarly, preferably, layer B comprises no more than 40% of layer A, preferably no more than 30% of layer A, preferably no more than 20% of layer A, preferably no more than 10% of layer B, and preferably no more than 10% of layer B. is up to 5% of layer A, and includes all ranges and subranges therebetween.

Factors affecting the separation of component A and component B after application to the keratin materials include, for example, the surface energy of the substrate, the density of each component, the evaporation properties of the solvent(s), the Tg of the film former, and / or those properties discussed above including, but not limited to, the viscosity of the film former.

While not wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it is believed that component A has surface energy properties closer to those of the keratin materials to which it is applied than component B. For example, the surface energy of skin is estimated to be 36 mN/m. Thus, if component A has a surface energy of about 36 mN/m, it is believed that component A can migrate into the skin. Component B preferably has a lower surface energy, so it will be more likely to migrate towards the air interface.

While not wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it is believed that the interfacial tension of components A and B affects phase separation (specifically, the rate at which components A and B separate after application). Such phase separation can occur, for example, at the temperature of components A and B, at the Tg of components A and B (the higher the Tg of the component, the longer the phase separation will take), the weight fraction of the film former. It is believed that it can be affected by differences such as those discussed above, such as the difference in pressures of components A and B, and/or differences in the pressures of components A and B.

These differences will also be discussed further below.

Glass Transition Temperature (Tg)

According to a preferred embodiment, component A and/or component B is below 60°C, preferably below 55°C, preferably below 50°C, and preferably below normal body temperature (98.6°F or 37°C). A combination of silicone resins having at least one glass transition temperature.

A preferred method of determining the Tg is to remove all volatile solvents from the layer and measure the Tg by differential scanning calorimetry.

density

According to a preferred embodiment, component A and component B have different density properties, the difference being that component A and component B are incompatible in the composition of the present invention. Preferably, component A/layer A and component B/layer B are 0.001-1 kg/m ³ , preferably 0.005-0.8 kg/m ³ , and preferably 0.01-0.6 kg/m ³ , and Density differences of all ranges and subranges between them.

temperature

According to a preferred embodiment, component A and component B are affected by temperature, the effect of which is known in the art, unlike emulsions that are considered stable under these conditions, component A and component B for a period of time It is made immiscible in the compositions of the present invention at temperatures below 50°C.

weight fraction

According to a preferred embodiment, component A and/or component B are

When present in component A, at least one polymer has M _c < wMw, where w = weight fraction of the polymer and Mw = molecular weight of the polymer;

When present in component B, at least one polymer has M _c ≤ wMw ≤ ^{10 8} g/mol

and at least one polymer, such as, for example, a film-forming agent, having a critical molecular weight of entanglement (M _c ).

Further, according to a preferred embodiment, the viscosity of the at least one polymer in component B is greater than 350 cSt, preferably greater than 500 cSt, preferably greater than 750 cSt, and preferably greater than 1000 cSt, and between All ranges and subranges.

ingredient

Component A and component B may differ in a number of ways, primarily based on the different functions associated with layers A and B. For example, if layer A performs a transfer-resistance or adhesion function, components of component A may be selected to perform a transfer-resistance or adhesion function. Similarly, if layer A performs a color-enhancing function, at least one colorant may be added to component A. and, for example, layer B performs a gloss- or brilliance-enhancing function, provides a better tactile feel (eg, provides a more comfortable tactile feel), and/or provides a barrier layer that inhibits color transfer. In this case, the components of Component B may be selected to exhibit gloss, brilliance, comfort and/or barrier layer properties. However, at the interface of layers A and B, the interface of layer A may have properties more related to layer B (eg, brilliance), while layer B may have properties more related to layer A (eg, adhesion ) can be held.

According to a preferred embodiment, component A comprises a combination of silicone resin and optionally at least one colorant, and layer A provides adhesion, transfer-resistance and/or color properties to the multilayer structure. According to this embodiment, component B may comprise at least one brilliance-enhancing agent, at least one comfort-enhancing agent and/or at least one barrier-providing agent; provide barrier properties.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention contains less than 1% fluorinated compounds.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention contains less than 0.5% fluorinated compounds.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is free of fluorinated compounds.

According to a preferred embodiment, at least one of the same solvent(s) is used for component A and component B. Preferably, the majority in each component out of the total solvents present in each component is the same.

According to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of component A to component B is, for example, from 1:50 to 1.5:1, from 1:75 to 1.5:1, from 1:50 to 1.5:1, from 1:20 to 1.5 :1, 1:50 to 50:1, 1:75 to 20:1, 1:50 to 10:1 or 1:20 to 10:1, and all ranges and subranges therebetween.

Examples of acceptable ingredients added to Component A and/or Component B are discussed below.

Combination of silicone resin

According to the present invention, there is provided a composition comprising at least one modified MQ resin, at least one MQ resin, and at least one polypropylsilsesquioxane resin.

As used herein, the term “resin” refers to a cross-linked or non-cross-linked three-dimensional structure. Silicone resin nomenclature is known in the art as "MDTQ" nomenclature, by which silicone resins are described according to the various monomeric siloxane units that make up the polymer.

Each letter of "MDTQ" means a different type of unit. The letter M stands for monofunctional unit (CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO _1/2 . This unit is considered monofunctional because the silicon atoms share only one oxygen when the unit is part of a polymer. An "M" unit can be represented by the following structure:

At least one of the methyl groups of the M unit can be substituted with another group to obtain, for example, a unit of the formula [R(CH ₃ ) ₂ ]SiO _1/2 , as shown in the following structure:

wherein R is selected from groups other than methyl groups. Non-limiting examples of such groups other than methyl groups include alkyl groups other than methyl groups, alkene groups, alkyne groups, hydroxyl groups, thiol groups, ester groups, acid groups, ether groups, wherein groups other than methyl groups are further can be replaced with

The symbol D stands for difunctional unit (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO _2/2 , where two oxygen atoms bonded to silicon atoms are used to bond to the rest of the polymer. The "D" unit, the main building block of dimethicone oil, can be represented as:

At least one of the methyl groups of the D unit can be substituted with another group to obtain, for example, a unit of the formula [R(CH ₃ )]SiO _2/2 .

The symbol T stands for the trifunctional unit, (CH ₃ )SiO _3/2 , which can be represented as:

At least one of the methyl groups of the T unit may be substituted with another group to obtain, for example, a unit of formula [R]SiO _3/2 .

Finally, the letter Q stands for the tetrafunctional unit SiO _4/2 , wherein a silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, which themselves are bonded to the rest of the polymer.

Thus, a vast number of different silicone polymers can be made. Further, the properties of each potential silicone polymer depend on the type(s) of the monomer(s), the type(s) of the substitution(s), the size of the polymer chains, the degree of crosslinking, and the size of any side chain(s). will be variable

MQ resins, also known as trimethylsiloxysilicates, can be represented by the formula:

[(CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO] _x (SiO _4/2 ) _y

(ie MQ units) where x and y may range, for example, from 10 to 150, preferably from 20 to 120, preferably from 40 to 100, and preferably from 50 to 80.

Resin MQ available from Wacker, Momentive Performance Materials, Grant Industries, Siltech, Milliken and Dow Corning are examples of acceptable commercially available trimethylsiloxysilicates. Trimethylsiloxysilicate is also commercially available from Momentive Performance under the tradename SR1000 and from Wacker under the tradename TMS 803. MQ resins are also commercially available from Dow Chemical in solvents such as cyclomethicone, for example. However, according to the present invention, the MQ resin can be used in the form of 100% active material and not in a solvent.

On the other hand, silsesquioxane can be represented by the following chemical formula:

(RSiO _3/2 ). _x

(ie, unit of T) where x may have a value ranging from a few thousand to several thousand, for example.

Polypropylsilsesquioxane is a silsesquioxane in which R is a propyl group. These compounds and their synthesis are described, for example, in patent application WO 2005/075567, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Examples of commercially available polypropylsilsesquioxane resins that may be mentioned include those sold under the reference Dow Corning 670 Fluid or 680 Fluid by the company Dow Corning. Typically, these commercially available products are polypropylsilsesquioxanes diluted in volatile oils such as volatile hydrocarbon oils or volatile silicone oils such as D5. Dow Corning 670 and 680 Fluids have the general formula R _n SiO _(4-n)/2 , where R is independently selected from a hydrogen atom and a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing three carbon atoms, where R greater than 80 mol % are propyl groups, n is a value from 1.0 to 1.4, greater than 60 mol % of the copolymer comprises RSiO _3/2 units and is 0.2 to 10 wt %, e.g. 1 to 4 wt %; It preferably has a hydroxyl or alkoxy content of 5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 6 to 8% by weight. Preferably, the polypropylsilsesquioxane resin has a molecular weight of about 5,000, 7,000, 10,000, 15,000, 20,000, 25,000 to about 30,000, 50,000, 75,000, 100,000 g/mol, and less than about 37°C, about -100, - 50, -37, or -20 to about 37 ℃ Tg.

Preferably, the at least one MQ resin and the at least one polypropylsilsesquioxane resin are blended prior to addition to the composition of the present invention. An example of such a commercial resin for polypropylsilsesquioxane is isododecane.

A modified MQ resin is an MQ resin in which at least one of the methyl groups of the M unit is substituted with another group as described above. Preferably, at least one M unit is substituted with a T unit. Suitable T units for this substitution are polysilsesquioxanes of the formula ((R)SiO _3/2 ) _x (T units) where x is greater than 100 and the R groups can independently be methyl or other substituents as defined above. , polymethylsilsesquioxane where R is a methyl group, polypropylsilsesquioxane where R is a propyl group, and polyphenylsilsesquioxane where R is a phenyl group. Preferably, the MQ resin is modified with one or more polymethylsilsesquioxanes. An example of such a T-modified MQ resin is GRANRESIN MQI-T50 from Grant Industries.

According to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of (MQ resin + polypropylsesquioxane) to modified MQ resin is from about 10:1 to about 1:10, preferably from about 5:1 to about 1:5, preferably is from about 3:1 to about 1:3 and preferably from about 2:1 to about 1:2, and all ranges and subranges therebetween.

According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of (MQ resin + polypropylsesquioxane) present in the composition of the present invention is from about 5% to about 45%, preferably from about 7% to about 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. and preferably from about 10 to about 35 weight percent, and all ranges and subranges therebetween.

According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of MQ resin present in the composition of the present invention is from about 2.5 to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 3.5 to about 26% by weight and preferably from about 5 to about 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 22% by weight, and all ranges and subranges therebetween.

According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of polypropylsesquioxane present in the composition of the present invention is from about 2.5% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 3.5% to about 14% by weight and preferably from about 5 to about 13 weight percent, and all ranges and subranges therebetween.

According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of modified MQ resin present in the composition of the present invention is from about 5 to about 45 weight percent, preferably from about 7 to about 40 weight percent and preferably from about 10 weight percent to the total weight of the composition. to about 35% by weight, and all ranges and subranges therebetween.

It should be understood that the compositions of the present invention may optionally further include other film forming agents known in the art in addition to the combinations of silicone resins described above. However, according to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention does not contain any film forming agent other than the combination of silicone resins discussed above. If other film-forming agent(s) are present, the film-forming agent(s) preferably range from about 0.05 to about 20 weight percent, preferably from 0.1 to 15 weight percent, and preferably from about 0.1 to about 15 weight percent of the total weight of the components in which they are found. 0.5 to 10% by weight, and all ranges and subranges there between.

silicone compound

In one or more embodiments, the composition of the present invention includes at least one silicone compound. Preferably, component B includes one or more silicone compounds that are not film forming agents. Also preferably, the at least one silicone compound has a surface energy lower than the surface energy of the film forming agent(s) in another component. So, for example, if component B contains at least one silicone compound that is not a film-forming agent, the silicone compound preferably has a lower surface energy than that of the film-forming agent(s) in component A. have

The silicone compound may be, for example, a polymer comprising silicon bonded to at least one oxygen, and in an even further embodiment two oxygens. In some embodiments, silicon is bonded to hydrocarbons (eg, C1-22 linear, branched and/or aryl) such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and phenyl. In one or more embodiments, the silicone compound includes polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS). In some embodiments, the silicone compound itself may be linear, branched or dendritic. In a further embodiment, the silicone compound is linear or substantially linear. In one or more embodiments, the silicone compound has a chain end selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbons, alcohols, esters, acids, ketones, amines, amides, epoxies, vinyls (e.g., alkene or alkyne groups), halogens, hydrides, and the like. includes For example, in embodiments where the silicone compound comprises polydimethylsiloxane, the compound may be chain ends terminated with -OH or methyl groups.

In one or more embodiments, the term “silicone compound” includes, but is not limited to, silicone gums, silicone fluids, and silicone waxes. If present, the silicone compound may impart properties to the composition (eg, enhancing luster or matt properties). In one or more embodiments, the silicone compound is present in an amount sufficient to achieve a viscosity greater than about 1,000 cSt and/or less than about 22,000,000 cSt. In some embodiments, the viscosity is about 1,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000, 30,000, 40,000, 50,000 or 60,000 CSTs to about 100,000, 200,000, 300,000, 400,000, 500,000, 600,000, 700,000, 800,000, 900,000, 1,000,000, 5,000,000, 10,000,000 or 22,000,000 cSt, and all ranges and subranges therebetween. A particularly preferred viscosity range for the combination of silicone compound(s) present in the composition of the present invention is from 20,000 cSt to 800,000 cSt, with 25,000 cSt to 750,000 cSt being most preferred.

brilliance/luminance enhancer

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, at least one brightness enhancer may be added to component A, component B, or both. Preferably, the brightness enhancer is selected from the group consisting of agents that facilitate self-leveling of the layer, agents having a high refractive index, and mixtures thereof. As described below, such brightness enhancers may be the silicone compounds discussed above.

In the case of dermatological compositions, particularly foundation compositions, such shine enhancers can impart a luminous and/or dewy effect to the compositions described herein. For example, one trend for foundation is a dewy/shiny foundation (especially for long-lasting shine) rather than a completely matte look. This is usually achieved by adding oil or pearls to the formula, but such formulas may not last long. The compositions described herein can also result in both long-lasting dewy/shiny appearances being obtained.

Suitable brilliance enhancers include those compounds having a refractive index ranging from about 1.45 to about 1.60, and a weight average molecular weight preferably less than 15,000, preferably less than 10,000, and preferably less than 2,000. Examples of such agents are phenylated silicones, such as those commercialized by Goldschmidt under the trade designation "ABIL AV 8853", and those commercialized by Dow Corning under the trade names "DC 554", "DC 555", "DC 556" and "SF 558". and those commercialized under the trade name "SILBIONE 70633 V 30" by Rhone-Poulenc.

Additional examples of suitable phenylated silicones include those commercialized by Wacker Silicones, such as BELSIL RDM 20, a phenylated silicone having a viscosity of approximately 20 cSt at 25°C; BELSIL RDM 200, a phenylated silicone having a viscosity of approximately 200 cSt at 25° C.; BELSIL RDM 1000, a phenylated silicone having a viscosity of approximately 1000 cSt at 25°C.

Additional examples of suitable shine enhancers include polycyclopentadiene, poly(propylene glycol) dibenzoate (nD=1.5345), aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone (nD=1.49-1.51), PURESYN 4E68 from ExxonMobil (nD=1.473). pentaerythritol tetraoleate commercially available, and PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate commercially available as CRODAMOL STS (nD=1.4696) from Croda Inc.

Particularly preferred brilliance enhancers are phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicone, and trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, and esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraoleate, and PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate.

Suitable brilliance enhancers include those that provide self-leveling properties to the compositions of the present invention. Suitable examples of such compositions include, but are not limited to, the silicone gums discussed below.

Silicone gums may correspond to the formula:

here:

R ₇ , R ₈ , R ₁₁ and R ₁₂ are the same or different and each is selected from an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

R ₉ and R ₁₀ are the same or different and each is selected from an alkyl radical and an aryl radical containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms;

X is selected from alkyl radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydroxyl radicals and vinyl radicals;

n and p are 350 cSt to 50,000,000 cSt, preferably 500 cSt to 40,000,000 cSt, preferably 750 cSt to 30,000,000 cSt, preferably 850 cSt to 20,000,000 cSt, preferably 950 cSt to 18,000,000 cSt and Preferably selected to provide viscosities from 1000 cSt to 10,000,000 cSt, and all ranges and subranges in between.

In general, n and p can each take a value ranging from 0 to 10,000, such as from 0 to 5,000.

Among the silicone gums that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:

those in which the substituents R ₇ to R ₁₂ and X represent a methyl group and p = 0 and n = 2700, such as products sold or manufactured under the name SE30 by the company General Electric;

those in which the substituents R ₇ to R ₁₂ and X represent a methyl group, p = 0 and n = 2300, such as products sold or manufactured by the company Wacker under the name AK 500000;

as a 13% solution in cyclopentasiloxane, wherein substituents R ₇ to R ₁₂ represent a methyl group, substituent X represents a hydroxyl group, p = 0 and n = 2700, such as sold under the name Q2-1401 by the company Dow Corning products made or manufactured;

As a 13% solution in polydimethylsiloxane, substituents R ₇ to R ₁₂ represent a methyl group, substituent X represents a hydroxyl group, p = 0 and n = 2700, such as sold under the name Q2-1403 by the company Dow Corning products made or manufactured; and

Substituents R _{7 ,} R ₈ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and X represent methyl groups and substituents R ₉ and R ₁₀ represent aryl groups, such that the molecular weight of the gum is about 600,000, such as Rhone-Poulenc (Rhodia Product sold or manufactured by Chimie under the designation 761.

In a preferred embodiment, the silicone gum corresponds to the formula:

In this formula, the terminal Si may also be other than methyl, and the R group may be linear, branched, and/or methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, t-butyl, amyl, hexyl, vinyl , allyl, cyclohexyl, phenyl, and mixtures thereof. The silicone gum used in the present invention may be terminated with a triorganosilyl group of the formula R' ₃ , wherein R' is a radical of a monovalent hydrocarbon containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, an alkoxyl group, and It is a mixture.

According to a preferred embodiment, Component B/Layer B comprises at least one brilliance (gloss) enhancer.

According to a preferred embodiment, component B/layer B has self-leveling properties such that a flatter interface is obtained between layer A and layer B and/or between layer B and air, which flatter interface is the composition Light diffraction, refraction and/or reflection properties for layer B that enhance the brilliance of the layer B are obtained.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, at least two silicone compounds, such as silicone fluids (eg the phenylated silicones described above) and/or silicone gums are present in the composition of the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, if present, the agent(s) that promote self-leveling of the layer, such as silicone gum(s), is from about 0.01 to about 90%, preferably from 1 to 85% by weight of the total weight of the composition. and preferably from 5 to 80% by weight, and all ranges and subranges therebetween.

According to a preferred embodiment, the agent(s) having a high refractive index, such as the phenylated silicone oil(s), if present, are from about 0.05 to about 90%, preferably from about 0.1 to 75% by weight of the total weight of the composition and preferably from 1 to 50% by weight, and all ranges and subranges therebetween.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, at least two silicone compounds, such as silicone fluids (eg the phenylated silicones described above) and/or silicone gums are present in the composition of the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, the brightness enhancer(s) is from about 0.05 to about 90% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 50% by weight and preferably from 1 to 35% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and all ranges and It is preferably present in a subrange of amounts.

Matte enhancer (matting agent)

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, at least one matt enhancer may be added to component A, component B, or both. With respect to component B, at least one matte enhancer may be added, regardless of whether component B is self-levelling and/or layer B has refractive properties that impart matte properties to the composition as described above.

Suitable matte enhancers include, but are not limited to, matting fillers such as talc, silica, silicone elastomers and polyamides, and waxes such as beeswax and Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax. don't

According to a preferred embodiment, the matt enhancer(s) is from about 0.05 to about 90%, preferably from 0.1 to 50% and preferably from 1 to 35%, and all ranges and It is preferably present in a subrange of amounts.

coloring agent

According to one or more embodiments of the present invention, there is provided a composition further comprising at least one colorant. Preferably, this coloring composition may be a cosmetic composition such as, for example, foundation or eye shadow. According to this embodiment, the at least one colorant may be selected from pigments, dyes, nacreous pigments, and pearling agents.

Pigments that may be used according to the invention may be selected from white, colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric, non-polymeric, coated and uncoated pigments. Representative examples of mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, optionally surface treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Representative examples of organic pigments include carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum.

Representative examples of inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include rutile or anatase titanium dioxide coded for the color index by reference CI 77,891; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides coded by the references CI 77,499, 77,492 and 77,491; manganese violet (CI 77,742); ultramarine blue (CI 77,007); chromium oxide (CI 77,288); chromium hydrate (CI 77,289); and ferric blue (CI 77,510) and mixtures thereof.

Representative examples of organic pigments and crimsons useful in the present invention are D&C Red No. 19 (CI 45,170), D&C Red No. 9 (CI 15,585), D&C Red No. 21 (CI 45,380), D&C Orange 4 No. (CI 15,510), D&C Orange No. 5 (CI 45,370), D&C Red No. 27 (CI 45,410), D&C Red No. 13 (CI 15,630), D&C Red No. 7 (CI 15,850), D&C Red No. 6 (CI 15,850), D&C Yellow No. 5 (CI 19,140), D&C Red No. 36 (CI 12,085), D&C Orange No. 10 (CI 45,425), D&C Yellow No. 6 (CI 15,985), D & C Red No. 30 (CI 73,360), D & C Red No. 3 (CI 45,430) and cochineal carmine (CI 75,570) based dyes or magenta, and mixtures thereof. It doesn't work.

Representative examples of pearlescent pigments useful in the present invention are white pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide coated mica, titanium dioxide coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as iron oxide titanium mica having ferric blue, chromium oxide, etc., titanium mica having organic pigments of the above-mentioned type, as well as those based on bismuth oxychloride, and mixtures thereof. include

Pearlescent pigments that can be used according to the invention include white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxide, ferric blue or with chromium oxide. titanium mica, titanium mica having organic pigments selected from those mentioned above, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. The pearlescent pigment, if present, is present in the composition in a concentration of up to 50%, such as from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.1 to 15%, and all ranges and subranges therebetween, of the total weight of the composition.

If present, the colorant may be present in the composition in a concentration of up to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.01% to 40%, and further such as from 0.1% to 30% by weight, and all ranges and subranges therebetween. . For certain products, pigments, including pearlescent pigments, may represent, for example, up to 50% by weight of the composition.

Embodiments with no or relatively low amounts of colorants (eg, inorganic or organic pigments or pearlescent agents) may be suitable as primers for skin. As used herein, a "primer" or "undercoat" is a preliminary coating applied to keratin materials (eg, skin or lips) prior to application of a subsequent cosmetic layer. Priming may allow these subsequent layers to adhere better to the surface and increase their durability. For example, priming the skin or other keratin materials may provide additional protection to the material, particularly in terms of long-lasting extension. Priming the skin or other keratin materials can also help preserve the integrity of subsequent cosmetic layers, particularly those comprising the compositions disclosed herein, from fading, wrinkling, and continued color intensity during fading. In addition, the primer can provide a uniform undercoat, often allowing increased uniformity of color and texture of the following coat(s) to be obtained. Thus, such a primer can act as a base for another foundation or eyeshadow composition, which can, for example, increase softness or help other compositions adhere better. Such primers may also include matting agents or elastomers (eg, silicone elastomers).

Alternatively, embodiments with no or relatively low amounts of colorants (eg, inorganic or organic pigments or pearlescent agents) may be suitable as compositions for application over topcoats, such as lip compositions or foundations. As used herein, a "topcoat" is a coating applied over a previous cosmetic layer after application of a cosmetic to a keratinic material (eg, lips or skin).

Alternatively, an embodiment with no colorants (eg inorganic or organic pigments or pearlescent agents) or with relatively small amounts of colorants is a stand-alone, neither topcoat nor primer, for application to keratin materials. can be a product.

According to the foregoing embodiments, the composition of the present invention contains less than 1% colorant.

According to the foregoing embodiments, the composition of the present invention contains less than 0.5% colorant.

According to the foregoing embodiments, the composition of the present invention is free of colorants.

The composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one fatty substance. Suitable fatty substances include oil(s) and/or wax(s). “Oil” means any non-aqueous medium that is liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). A "wax" for purposes of this disclosure means a melting temperature greater than 30°C and, for example, greater than 45°C, which can be as high as 150°C, a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa at ambient temperature, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. It is a lipophilic fatty compound that is a solid at ambient temperature (25 ° C) and changes reversibly from a solid to a liquid state. By raising the wax to its melting temperature, the wax(es) themselves can be used as a carrier and/or the wax(es) can be blended with an oil to make a microscopically homogeneous mixture.

Suitable oils include volatile and/or non-volatile oils. Such oil may be any acceptable oil including but not limited to silicone oil and/or hydrocarbon oil.

According to certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention preferably includes one or more volatile silicone oils. Examples of such volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity of 6 cSt or less at room temperature and having 2 to 7 silicon atoms, which silicones are optionally substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms. do. Specific oils that may be used in the present invention include octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and including mixtures of these. Other volatile oils that may be used include KF 96A, 6 cSt viscosity, a commercial product from Shin Etsu, which has a flash point of 94°C. Preferably, the volatile silicone oil has a flash point of at least 40°C.

Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils are listed in Table 1 below.

Also, volatile linear silicone oils may be used in the present invention. Suitable volatile linear silicone oils include those described in US Pat. Nos. 6,338,839 and WO03/042221, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. In one embodiment, the volatile linear silicone oil is decamethyltetrasiloxane. In another embodiment, decamethyltetrasiloxane is further combined with another solvent that is more volatile than decamethyltetrasiloxane.

According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the composition preferably comprises one or more non-silicone volatile oils, which may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile esters and volatile ethers. Examples of such volatile non-silicone oils are volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and especially branched C ₈ to C ₁₆ alkanes, such as C ₈ to C ₁₆ isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins). ), isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane, and oils sold under the trade names, for example, Isopar or Permethyl. Preferably, the volatile non-silicone oil has a flash point of at least 40°C.

Non-limiting examples of volatile non-silicone volatile oils are listed in Table 2 below.

The volatility of a solvent/oil can be measured using the evaporation rate described in US Pat. No. 6,338,839, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile oil. Examples of non-volatile oils that may be used in the present invention are polar oils such as:

- vegetable oils of the hydrocarbon family with a high triglyceride content, consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have variable chain lengths, these chains possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils include in particular wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, karite butter, castor oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, Pumpkin oil, sesame oil, bone marrow oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grapeseed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil or musk rose oil; or caprylic/capric triglycerides, vegetable oils of the hydrocarbon family, for example those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel;

- synthetic oils or esters of the formula R ₅ COOR ₆ , wherein R ₅ represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R ₆ is 3 to 19 carbon atoms. Represents a chain of branched hydrocarbon series containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms including 20 carbon atoms, where R ₆ + R ₇ ≥ 10, such as purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), iso nonyl isononanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alkyl benzoates, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, and octanoates, decanoates of alcohols or of polyhydric alcohols or ricinolate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl maleate; and a synthetic oil or ester of the formula R ₅ COOR ₆ , which is a pentaerythritol ester;

- synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- C ₈ to C ₂₆ fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetyl alcohol; and

- including but not limited to mixtures of these.

Further examples of non-volatile oils that may be used in the present invention include non-polar oils such as branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon waxes including polyolefins, in particular petrolatum (mineral oil), paraffin oil, squalane, squalene. , hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, and mixtures thereof.

In one or more embodiments, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may also contain at least one high viscosity ester. Examples thereof include, but are not limited to, C ₁ -C ₃₀ monoesters and polyesters of sugars and related materials. These esters are derived from sugar or polyol moieties and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the constituent acids and sugars, these esters can be in liquid or solid form at room temperature. Suitable liquid esters are glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated), mannose tetraesters of mixed soybean oil fatty acids, galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, arabinose tetraesters of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaesters. Oleate, Sorbitol Tetraoleate, Sorbitol Hexaesters of Unsaturated Soybean Oil Fatty Acids, Xylitol Pentaoleate, Sucrose Tetraoleate, Sucrose Pentaoleate, Sucrose Hexaoleate, Sucrose Heptaolate, Sucrose Octaol rates, and mixtures thereof. Suitable solid esters include sorbitol hexaesters wherein the carboxylic acid ester moieties are palmitolate and arachidate in a 1:2 molar ratio; octaesters of raffinose in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are linoleate and behenate in a 1:3 molar ratio; heptaesters of maltose in which the esterified carboxylic acid moiety is sunflower seed oil fatty acid and lignocerate in a 3:4 molar ratio; octaesters of sucrose in which the esterified carboxylic acid moieties are oleate and behenate in a 2:6 molar ratio; and octaesters of sucrose where the esterified carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a 1:3:4 molar ratio. In an embodiment, the ester has a degree of esterification of 7-8 and the fatty acid moiety is C18 mono- and/or di-unsaturated behenic acid in a molar ratio of unsaturated:behenic acid of from 1:7 to 3:5. In another embodiment, the sugar polyester is an octaester of sucrose with about 7 behenic acid fatty acid moieties and about oleic acid moieties in the molecule. Other materials may include cottonseed oil or soybean oil fatty acid esters of sucrose.

In one or more embodiments, the high viscosity ester comprises sucrose acetate isobutyrate. One example of a suitable sucrose acetate isobutyrate compound is SAIB-100® commercially available from Eastman®, Kingsport, Tenn. This ester has a viscosity of about 100,000 cps at 30°C and a refractive index of about 1.5 at 20°C.

According to a preferred embodiment, the at least one oil, if present, comprises about 5 to about 60 weight percent, more preferably about 10 to about 50 weight percent and most preferably about 15 to about 60 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition. 35% by weight, and all ranges and subranges within these ranges are present in the compositions of the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one wax. Suitable examples of waxes that may be used according to the present disclosure include those commonly used in the cosmetic field: these are those of natural origin, such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax or sugarcane wax, rice wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, and hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated castor oil or jojoba oil; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes obtained from polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene, and Fischer-Tropsch waxes, or esters of fatty acids such as octacosanyl stearate, glycerides that coagulate at 30°C, eg 45°C.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one silicone wax. Examples of suitable silicone waxes are silicone waxes such as alkyl- or alkoxydimethicone having an alkyl or alkoxy chain in the range of 10 to 45 carbon atoms, poly(dimethicone) which is solid at 30° C. and the ester chain contains at least 10 carbon atoms. ) Methylsiloxane ester, di(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold or manufactured by Heterene under the name HEST 2T-4S; An alkylated silicone acrylate copolymer wax comprising at least 40 mole percent of siloxy units having the formula (R ₂ R'SiO _1/2 ) _x (R"SiO _3/2 ) _y , wherein x and y are 0.05 to 0.95, R is an alkyl group, aryl group, carbinol group or amino group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, R is a monovalent hydrocarbon having 9 to 40 carbon atoms, and R″ is 1 to monovalent hydrocarbon groups having from 8 carbon atoms, such as aryl groups such as those disclosed in US Patent Application 2007/0149703, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference, certain examples being C30-C45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesqui. an alkylated silicone acrylate copolymer wax that is oxane; and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one long-chain alcohol wax. Preferably, the at least one long chain alcohol wax has an average carbon chain length of about 20 to about 60 carbon atoms, most preferably about 30 to about 50 carbon atoms. Suitable examples of long-chain alcohol waxes include, but are not limited to, alcohol waxes commercially available from Baker Hughes under the trade names Performacol, such as Performacol 350, 425 and 550. Most preferably, the long chain alcohol wax has a melting temperature range of about 93°C to about 105°C.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention contains less than 1% wax.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention contains less than 0.5% wax.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is wax-free.

If present, the wax or waxes range from 1% to 30%, such as from 2% to 20%, and such as from 3% to 10%, and all ranges and subranges therebetween, relative to the total weight of the composition. may be present in an amount of

Additional Additives

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is a composition for application to keratin materials, such as the skin or lips. According to these embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may contain ingredients typically found in cosmetic compositions, such as, for example, water, active ingredients, humectants, surfactants and fillers. Accordingly, the composition of the present invention may include any additive commonly used in the field under consideration. For example, dispersants such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), antioxidants, essential oils, sunscreens, preservatives, fragrances, fillers, neutralizers, cosmetic and skin actives such as emollients, humectants, vitamins, essential fatty acids, interfaces Active agents, silicone elastomers, thickeners, gelling agents, particles, pasty compounds, and viscosity increasing agents may be added. A non-exhaustive list of these ingredients can be found in US Patent Application Publication 2004/0170586, which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety. Additional examples of suitable additional components may be found in other references incorporated herein by reference. Another example of such additional ingredients can be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9th ^ed . 2002).

One skilled in the art will take care to select optional additional additives and/or amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the present invention are not adversely affected or substantially adversely affected by the anticipated addition.

These materials can be variously selected by one skilled in the art to produce a composition having desired properties, such as consistency or texture.

Such additives may be present in the composition in proportions of 0 to 99% (such as 0.01 to 90%) and further such as 0.1 to 50% (if present), and all ranges and subranges therebetween, by weight of the composition. .

In one or more embodiments, the composition of the present invention is cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, that is, it must contain a non-toxic, physiologically acceptable medium and can be applied to human skin.

Particularly suitable gelling agents for the oil phase include, but are not limited to, lipophilic or hydrophilic clays.

The term “hydrophilic clay” means a clay that can swell in water; This clay swells in water and forms a colloidal dispersion after hydration. These clays are products already well known per se, for example in the book "Mineralologie des argiles", S. Caillere, S. Henin, M. Rautureau, ^2nd edition 1982, Masson, the teachings of which are hereby incorporated by reference. are described in Clays are silicates containing cations that may be selected from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such products that may be mentioned include clays of the smectite type, such as montmorillonite, hectorite, bentonite, beidelite and saponite, and also vermiculite, stevensite and chlorite type clays. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.

Hydrophilic clays that may be mentioned include smectite products such as saponite, hectorite, montmorillonite, bentonite and beidellite. Hydrophilic clays that may be mentioned are the synthetic hectorite (also known as laponite), for example the products sold by the company Laporte under the names Laponite XLG, Laponite RD and Laponite RDS (these products are sodium magnesium silicate and especially lithium magnesium silicate). is sodium); bentonites, for example the product sold under the name Bentone HC by the company Rheox; especially hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate, for example the products sold by the Vanderbilt Company under the names Veegum Ultra, Veegum HS and Veegum DGT, or calcium silicate, and in particular the product in synthetic form sold by the company under the name Micro-cel C. include

The term “lipophilic clay” means a clay that can expand in lipophilic media; This clay swells in the medium to form a colloidal dispersion. Examples of lipophilic clays that may be mentioned are modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone Gel VS38 from Rheox), and hectorite modified with C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid ammonium chloride, for example manufactured by the company Rheox. and hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: disteardimonium hectorite) sold under the name Bentone 38 CE or Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis.

In particular, among the gelling agents that can be used, mention can be made of silica particles. Preferably, the silica particles are fumed silica particles.

Suitable silica is a hydrophobic silica, such as a particle size of less than 1 micron, preferably less than 500 nm, preferably less than 100 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 30 nm, and all ranges and subranges therebetween, optionally pyrogenic silica with a hydrophobic surface treatment, but is not limited thereto. In fact, the silica surface can be chemically modified by a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups present on the silica surface. The silanol groups may in particular be substituted with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. Hydrophobic groups can be:

Trimethylsiloxyl groups obtained in particular by treating pyrogenic silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silica thus treated is referred to as "silica silylate" according to CTFA (6th edition, 1995). These are sold, for example, under the reference “AEROSIL R812®” by the company Degussa, “CAB-O-SIL TS-530®” by the company Cabot;

Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups obtained in particular by treating pyrogenic silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silica treated in this way is referred to as “silica dimethyl silylate” according to CTFA (6th edition, 1995). These are, for example, references "AEROSIL R972®", "AEROSIL R974®" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610®", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720®" by the company Cabot. is sold as

Suitable emollients may include, but are not limited to: natural and synthetic oils such as mineral, vegetable and animal oils; fats and waxes; fatty alcohols and acids and their esters; esters and ethers of (poly)alkylene glycols; hydrocarbons such as mineral oil and squalane; lanolin alcohol and its derivatives; animal and plant triglycerides; and stearyl alcohol. Non-limiting examples include, but are not limited to, esters such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isonanoate (such as WICKENOL 151 available from Alzo Inc., Sayreville, N.J.), C12-C15 alkyl benzoates (such as Innospec FINSOLV TN from Active Chemicals), caprylic/capric triglycerides, pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, mineral oil, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, PPG-15 stearyl ether benzoate, PPG-2-myristyl ether propionate, ethyl methicone, diethylhexylcyclohexane, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms, e.g. heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, bone marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, caprylyl glycol; In particular synthetic esters and ethers of fatty acids such as Purcellin oil, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, hydroxylated esters such as isoste aryl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl maleate or triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates, polyol esters such as For example, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate, pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, petroleum jelly, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam oil, and/or mixtures of n-undecane and n-tridecane sold under the reference Cetiol UT by the company BASF.

Preferably, the emollient(s), if present, are generally from about 0.1 to about 20 weight percent, preferably from about 0.25 to about 15 weight percent and more preferably from about 0.5 to about 10 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition. % range, and all ranges and subranges therebetween, of the amount of active substance present in the composition of the present invention.

Preservatives suitable for skin compositions include chlorophenesin, sorbic acid, disodium ethylenedinitrilotetraacetate, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, phytic acid, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, benzyl alcohols, methylmechloroisothiazolinones, methylisothiazolinones, and any combination thereof. The heat-protective composition generally contains from about 0.001 to about 20% by weight of the preservative, based on 100% by weight of the total heat-protection composition. In another aspect, the composition contains from about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent preservative, based on 100 weight percent of the total heat-protective composition.

The composition may also optionally include a UV filter. UV filters are well known in the art for use in blocking UV radiation. For example, the UV filters can be one or more organic UV filters and/or one or more inorganic UV filters. Non-limiting examples of UV filters include:

i. Poorly soluble UV filters (not appreciably soluble in water or oil), such as methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, tris-biphenyl triazine, methanone, 1,1'-(1,4 -piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl] and mixtures thereof;

ii. Oil-soluble organic UV filters (at least partially soluble in oil or organic solvents) such as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMBM), oxybenzone, sulisobenzone, diethylhexyl buta Mido triazone (DBT), drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS), ethylhexyl triazone (EHT), homosalate, isoamyl p-methoxy cinnamate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, octocrylene (OCR), polysilicone-15, and diethylamino hydroxy benzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB);

iii. inorganic UV filters such as titanium and zinc oxides, iron oxides, zirconium oxides and cerium oxides; and

iv. water-soluble UV filters such as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (PBSA), sulisobenzone-sodium salt, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, sinoxate, disodium phenyl dibenzylimidazole tetrasulfonate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, PABA, and PEG-25 PABA.

In some cases, the UV filter is a para-aminobenzoic acid derivative, salicylic acid derivative, cinnamic acid derivative, benzophenone or aminobenzobenone, anthranilic acid derivative, β,β-diphenylacrylate derivative, benzylidenecamphor derivative, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, triazine derivatives, bisresocynyl triazines, imidazoline derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, benzoxazole derivatives, merocyanine, malonitrile or malo at least one of a nate diphenyl butadiene derivative, a chalcone, or a mixture thereof.

Suitable UV filters may include broad spectrum UV filters that protect against both UVA and UVB radiation, or UV filters that protect against either UVA or UVB radiation. In some cases, the one or more UV filters include methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylphenol, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, coated or uncoated zinc oxide, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate , homosalate ethyl hexyl salicylate, octocrylene, polysilicone-15, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, menthyl anthranilate, and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA.

Combinations of UV filters may also be used. For example, combinations of UV filters include octocrylene, avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), oxybenzone (benzophenone-3), octocrylene, as described in U.S. Patent No. 9,107,843, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. thesalate (ethylhexyl salicylate), and homosalate.

Way

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention is applied to the keratin materials in an amount sufficient to treat, care and/or make up the keratin materials, such as to treat, care for and/or make up the keratin materials, such as the skin or lips. A method is provided. Preferably, “making up” the keratin materials includes applying to the keratin materials at least one colorant in an amount sufficient to impart color to the keratin materials.

According to another preferred embodiment, there is provided a method of enhancing the appearance of keratin materials by applying to the keratin materials the composition of the present invention in an amount sufficient to enhance the appearance of the keratin materials.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the method comprises mixing or blending the composition so that the immiscible components are temporarily miscible, and applying the composition comprising the temporarily miscible components to the keratin materials, Methods of applying the compositions of the present invention to keratin materials (eg, skin or lips) are provided. In one or more embodiments, the composition may be mixed in a mixing pack or mixed by hand. After application to the keratin materials, the components are separated to form a multi-layered structure on the keratin materials.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, (1) at least one container; (2) at least one applicator; and (3) at least one composition capable of forming a multi-layered structure after application to keratin materials, wherein said composition comprises at least two immiscible components prior to application.

According to the foregoing preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention is sufficient to treat, care for and/or make up keratin materials, to cover or hide imperfections, skin imperfections or discolorations associated with keratin materials, or to enhance the appearance of keratin materials. Apply topically to the desired area of keratin materials in an amount. The composition can be applied to the desired area as needed, preferably once a day, and then preferably dried before coming into contact with, for example, clothing or other objects. Preferably, the composition dries for about 4 minutes or less, more preferably about 2 minutes or less.

Also according to the foregoing preferred embodiments, the composition is preferably contained in a suitable container for cosmetic compositions. Suitable shapes for such containers include, but are not limited to, any geometric shape such as, for example, square, rectangular, pyramidal, elliptical, circular, hemispherical, and the like. Additionally, the container may be made of a flexible or inflexible material.

Similarly, any applicator suitable for application of cosmetic compositions may be used in accordance with the present invention, with suitable examples of applicator types including, but not limited to, brushes, sticks, pads, roller balls, and the like. have.

Preferably, (1) the container is capable of mixing or blending the composition of the present invention so that the immiscible components are temporarily miscible; (2) the applicator is capable of mixing or blending the composition of the present invention so that the immiscible components are temporarily miscible; (3) A container and applicator working together such that the immiscible components are temporarily miscible according to the foregoing preferred embodiments may mix or blend the composition of the present invention. For example, because of its flexibility, a flexible container can generate sufficient force when manipulated to temporarily mix or blend a composition of the present invention such that immiscible components are temporarily miscible; The applicator, by virtue of its design, is capable of generating sufficient force upon withdrawal from the container to temporarily mix or blend the composition of the present invention so that the immiscible components are temporarily miscible; (3) The non-flexible container and applicator, due to its synergistic design elements, exert sufficient force when the applicator is withdrawn from the container to temporarily mix or blend the composition of the present invention so that the incompatible components are temporarily miscible. can create

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is a lip composition for application to the lips, such as a lipstick, lip gloss or lip balm. According to such embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may contain ingredients typically found in lip compositions, such as, for example, colorants, waxes, and gelling agents. Additionally, the composition may contain water or be anhydrous. Further, the composition may or may not be solid.

Preferred embodiments include:

1. A cosmetic composition capable of forming a multilayer structure after application to keratin materials,

wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least two immiscible components A and B:

wherein component A comprises at least one MQ resin, at least one polypropylsilsesquioxane, and at least one modified MQ resin, wherein the modified MQ resin comprises at least one T unit;

wherein component B comprises from about 0.01 to 90% by weight of one or more silicone compounds relative to the total weight of the composition in an amount sufficient to achieve a viscosity of about 1,000 cSt to 22,000,000 cSt.

2. The cosmetic composition according to the preceding embodiment, further comprising at least one colorant, preferably an inorganic pigment.

3. A cosmetic composition according to any preceding embodiment, wherein the composition comprises less than 1% colorant by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The cosmetic composition according to any preceding embodiment, further comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, preferably isododecane.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any preceding embodiment, wherein the silicone compound comprises at least one compound selected from the group consisting of silicone gum, silicone fluid, and mixtures thereof.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any preceding embodiment, wherein the modified MQ resin is polymethylsilsesquioxane/trimethylsiloxysilicate.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any preceding embodiment, wherein the weight ratio of (MQ resin + polypropylsilsesquioxane) to modified MQ resin is from about 10:1 to about 1:10.

8. (a) the cosmetic composition of any preceding embodiment; (b) at least one container containing the cosmetic composition; and (c) at least one applicator.

9. The kit of the previous embodiment, wherein the container is configured to mix components A and B.

10. A method of applying the cosmetic composition of the above embodiments 1 to 7, preferably a part of the kit of the above embodiments 8 to 9, to a keratin material, wherein the cosmetic composition is mixed so that component A and component B are temporarily An application method comprising the steps of forming a mixed composition that is miscible with: and applying said mixed composition to keratin materials.

Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients, reaction conditions, etc., used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about." Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and appended claims are approximations that may vary depending on the desired properties to be obtained by the present invention.

Although numerical ranges and parameters describing the broad scope of the present invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in specific embodiments are reported as accurately as possible. However, all numerical values inherently contain certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting its scope as a result. Percentage is given by weight.

Example 1 - Composition

Compositions falling within the ranges specified below were prepared and analyzed.

In particular, in composition C of the present invention, the (MQ resin + polypropylsilsesquioxane) to modified MQ resin weight ratio was 1:1, and in composition D of the present invention (MQ resin + polypropylsilsesquioxane) to modified MQ resin The weight ratio of the prepared MQ resin was 2:1.

Comparative Example Composition A contained no modified MQ resin. Comparative Example Composition B contained no MQ resin + polypropylsilsesquioxane. Comparative Example Composition E contained no modified MQ resin, MQ resin, or polypropylsilsesquioxane.

Compositions A-D all contained the same amount of silicone resin by weight.

Example 2 - Test

The composition of Example 1 was tested for lasting properties. The effects of olive oil, artificial saliva and acetic acid on the retention properties were quantitatively evaluated as follows.

A 1 mL drawdown was prepared on abrasive paper, and the membrane was left at ambient temperature for 48 hours.

With slight finger pressure across the membrane and at a 180 degree angle, ASTM tape was used to cross the right side of the membrane and gently remove the membrane.

On the membrane, a droplet was placed over each sample. I used 4 drops of olive oil (2 top and 2 bottom). This procedure (total of 4 drops) was repeated for artificial saliva and acetic acid. The droplets were placed to avoid overlapping.

The droplets were left for 10 minutes and then wiped 15 times with a cotton pad.

This test was performed twice. The following numerical rating system was used: Results were assigned a scale of 1-3, where 1 = least transfer/best membrane property and 3 = maximum transfer/worst membrane property.

The results (reported as an average of two runs) are reported in the following table.

Each sample was analyzed for its long lasting properties on the membrane itself (how much of the membrane was scrubbed away), as well as the transfer of the membrane to the cotton pad used for wiping. In the table above, “cotton” refers to the test related to transfer to a cotton pad.

Comparative Example Composition A exhibited some fracture in the presence of olive oil, as well as transfer to ASTM tape. Comparative Example Composition B exhibited an inferior persistence profile with an average duration of 2 out of 3. This sample showed lower performance for olive oil, saliva and acetic acid compared to Comparative Example Composition A, as well as transfer to cotton pads. It also showed similar performance to Comparative Example Composition A for ASTM tape transfer.

Composition C of the present invention (1:1 ratio) surprisingly showed an excellent lasting profile with an average lasting of 1.22 out of 3. Interestingly, the oil breakdown of the membranes in inventive composition C was better than in comparative compositions A and B.

Inventive Composition D (2:1 ratio) showed an excellent lasting profile similar to Inventive Composition C, indicating an average duration of 1.21 out of 3, indicating that the combination of silicone resins provided an improved lasting profile. indicate

We found that in the compositions of the present invention, 1:1 and 2:1 ratios of (MQ resin + polypropylsilsesquioxane) to modified MQ resin (MQ resin + polypropylsilsesquioxane) or modified MQ resin alone It has proven to work much better than that.

Claims (10)

As a cosmetic composition capable of forming a multilayer structure after application to keratin materials,
wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least two immiscible components A and B:
wherein component A comprises at least one MQ resin, at least one polypropylsilsesquioxane, and at least one modified MQ resin, wherein said modified MQ resin comprises at least one T unit;
wherein component B comprises from about 0.01 to 90% by weight of one or more silicone compounds relative to the total weight of the composition in an amount sufficient to achieve a viscosity of about 1,000 cSt to 22,000,000 cSt. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one colorant, preferably an inorganic pigment. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition comprises less than 1% by weight of a colorant based on the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, preferably isododecane. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the silicone compound includes at least one compound selected from the group consisting of silicone gum, silicone fluid, and mixtures thereof. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the modified MQ resin is polymethylsilsesquioxane/trimethylsiloxysilicate. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the weight ratio of (MQ resin + polypropylsilsesquioxane) to modified MQ resin is from about 10:1 to about 1:10. (a) the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7; (b) at least one container containing the cosmetic composition; and (c) at least one applicator. 10. The kit of claim 9, wherein the container is configured to mix component A and component B. A method of applying the cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 to 7 to a keratin material,
mixing the cosmetic composition to form a mixed composition in which component A and component B are temporarily miscible; and
An application method comprising applying said mixed composition to keratin materials.