JP2023524273A - A cosmetic composition capable of forming a multilayer structure after application to a keratin material, comprising a combination of silicone resins - Google Patents

Abstract

Provided are cosmetic compositions that include a combination of silicone resins and are capable of forming a multi-layered structure after application to keratin materials, as well as methods of applying such compositions to keratin materials.

Description

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS This application is filed on August 26, 2020 and U.S. Patent Application No. 16/916,594, filed June 30, 2020, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. based on and claiming the benefit of priority to filed French patent application No. 2008714.

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising a combination of silicone resins, capable of forming a multilayer structure after application to keratinous materials. Such compositions enable the benefits associated with multi-layer cosmetics without having to engage in a multi-step application process.

Many cosmetic compositions, including pigmented cosmetics such as foundations, lipsticks, and eye shadows, are formulated to have long wearing properties when applied. Unfortunately, many of these compositions generally lack good wear/transfer properties as well as good application properties, good comfort properties, and/or good appearance properties (e.g., gloss or matte properties). do not have both

For example, for lip products, commercially available products containing silicone resins such as MQ resins are known. Such products are known to provide good wear properties and/or transfer resistance. However, such products have poor application properties due to the film formed by the MQ resin (eg, matte appearance), poor feel when applied (eg, rough feel), and poor gloss or gloss properties. Therefore, a second composition (topcoat) is separately applied to such products to improve the composition's detrimental properties and make them acceptable to consumers. Furthermore, the topcoat composition must be continuously reapplied for continued consumer acceptance of the product, which means that the product will need constant maintenance and reapplication, so the product will not be effective. It means "doesn't last".

With respect to foundation, such products can provide good wear properties and/or transfer resistance. However, such long-lasting/transfer-resistant products may have poor application properties and/or poor feel when applied and poor matte properties.

Accordingly, there remains a need for improved "single-step" cosmetic compositions that have improved cosmetic properties upon application, particularly good longevity, feel, shine, glitter, and/or matte properties.

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition capable of forming a multilayer structure after application to keratin materials, the composition comprising at least two immiscible ingredients prior to application, the composition comprising at least one one modified MQ resin, at least one MQ resin, and at least a polypropylsilsesquioxane resin. Preferably, the composition further comprises at least one coloring agent.

The present invention includes the application of a composition of the present invention to a keratinous material (e.g., skin, hair, eyelashes, nails, or lips) in an amount sufficient to groom, care for, and/or make up the keratinous material. It also relates to a method of caring for, caring for and/or making up keratinous material by treating.

The present invention further enhances the appearance of keratinous materials (e.g., skin, hair, eyelashes, nails, or lips) by applying a composition of the present invention to the keratinous materials in an amount sufficient to enhance the appearance of the keratinous materials. It also relates to a method for improving

The present invention provides a method of applying a composition of the present invention to a keratinous material (e.g., skin, hair, eyelashes, nails, or lips), wherein the composition is applied such that the immiscible ingredients are temporarily miscible. It also relates to a method comprising mixing or blending and applying the composition comprising the temporarily miscible ingredients to the keratinous material. After being applied to the keratinous material, the components separate and form a multi-layered structure on the keratinous material.

The invention also relates to a kit comprising (1) at least one container, (2) at least one applicator, and (3) at least one composition of the invention. Preferably, at least one container is configured to mix the immiscible ingredients in at least one composition of the invention.

It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only and are not restrictive of the invention.

As used herein, the phrase "at least one" means one or more and thus includes both individual components and mixtures/combinations.

Except in the examples or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are "about" meaning within 10% of the indicated numerical value in all instances. should be understood as being modified by the term

All amounts or percent concentrations expressed herein refer to amounts or percents by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As used herein, "immiscible" in the context of "immiscible ingredients" means that the ingredients are Means visually separated into layers in an object. In contrast, emulsions containing oil and water phases do not contain immiscible oil and water components because the emulsion does not contain visually separated layers.

As used herein, "temporarily miscible" in the context of blending or mixing compositions such that the immiscible ingredients are "temporarily miscible" means that the ingredients are visible in a layer after blending or mixing. means that they are not physically separated.

As used herein, "film former" or "film forming agent" means a polymer or resin that leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied. .

As used herein, "polymer" means a compound composed of at least two monomers.

As used herein, "substituted" means containing at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms, as well as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, Functional groups such as acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonic acid groups, thiosulfonic acid groups, siloxane groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, and polysiloxane groups are included. Substituents may be further substituted.

As used herein, "volatile" means having a flash point of less than about 100°C.

As used herein, "non-volatile" means having a flash point greater than about 100°C.

By "anhydrous" is meant that the composition contains less than 1% water. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention contain less than 0.5% water, most preferably no water.

As used herein, "transfer resistance" refers to properties exhibited by a composition that are not readily removed by contact with another material, such as glass, clothing, or skin, such as during eating or drinking. Point. Transfer resistance can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such transfer resistance. For example, the transfer resistance of a composition can be evaluated by the "kiss" test. The "kiss" test is performed after a certain amount of time after application, e.g. After a few minutes, the composition may be applied to human keratinous material such as hair, skin or lips, followed by rubbing the material, eg, a scrap of paper, onto the hair, skin, or lips. Similarly, transfer resistance of a composition refers to the amount of product transferred from the wearer to any other substrate after a specified period of time after application of the composition to the hair, skin, or lips, e.g. , can be assessed by the amount of product transferred from an individual's hair, skin, or lips to the collar when dressed. The amount of composition transferred to a substrate (eg, collar or paper) can then be evaluated and compared. For example, a composition may be transfer resistant if the majority of the product remains on the wearer's hair, skin, or lips. Additionally, the amount transferred can be compared to the amount transferred by other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. In preferred embodiments of the invention, little or no composition transfers from the hair, skin, or lips to the substrate.

As used herein, "adherence" refers to the property exhibited by a composition that adheres to a substrate after application. Adhesion can be assessed by any method known in the art for assessing such adhesion. For example, samples to be tested for adhesion properties can be deposited on a surface such as a Bioskin substrate or Byko-Charts black scrub panels P122-10N (6.50×17.00 inches). After drying, a piece of ASTM crosshatch tape (Permacel 99/PA-28060/51596) can be placed over the sample and removed at a 180° angle. It can then be determined how much of the sample adheres to the tape. For example, a rating scale, such as a scale of 1 to 3, can be used to assess the degree of removal of the sample from the substrate to the tape, where 1 is essentially no removal and 2 is some , and 3 is essentially complete removal.

As used herein, the term "scuff resistance" refers to physical abrasion, such as rubbing of human skin with hands or clothing or other physical interactions. This may be due to the ability to retain active ingredients on the skin, or the skin or substrate due to abrasion or other physical interaction, such as Byko-Charts black scrub panel P122-10N (6.50 x 17.00 inches) or It can also be described as the ability to prevent removal of active ingredients from BIOSKIN.

As used herein, "gloss" in a composition is 35 out of 100, such as 40, preferably 45, 55, 60, or 65 measured at 60° (all ranges therebetween). and subranges, such as 35-65, 40-65, etc.).

The term "average gloss" refers to spreading a layer of the composition to be tested using a gloss meter, e.g., with a drawdown of 1 mL onto a black panel at a thickness of 20 μm to 500 μm using an automatic spreader. means gross, which can be measured by The deposit can be dried at room temperature for a period of time, such as 24 hours or 48 hours, after which gloss is measured at 60° using a Byk Gardner gloss instrument referenced microTRI-GLOSS. This measurement (between 0 and 100) is repeated at least three times and the average of the at least three times is the average gloss.

As used herein, a "long-wearing" composition refers to a composition that remains the same or substantially the same in color to the naked eye after an extended period of time as applied. Longevity properties can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, longevity can be assessed by a test that involves applying the composition to the skin and evaluating the color of the composition after an extended period of time. For example, the color of the composition may be evaluated immediately after application to the skin, and then these characteristics may be re-evaluated and compared after some specified time. Additionally, these characteristics can be evaluated in comparison with other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. Alternatively or additionally, longevity properties can be assessed by applying a sample, allowing it to dry, then abrading the sample and determining sample removal/loss.

The cosmetic compositions and methods of the present invention comprise the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, and any additional or optional features described herein or otherwise useful in personal care. may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of any particular component, element, or limitation.

Compositions Capable of Forming Multilayered Structures According to various embodiments of the present invention, cosmetic compositions are provided that are capable of forming a multilayered structure after application to a keratinous material, comprising a combination of silicone resins. . Such compositions enable the benefits associated with multi-layer cosmetics without having to engage in a multi-step application process. For example, such compositions may be suitable as foundations, primers, eyeshadows, and other skin compositions, and/or as lipsticks, lip glosses, lip balms, and other lip compositions. obtain.

According to one or more embodiments of the present invention, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprise at least two components, hereinafter referred to as "component A" and "component B". In one or more embodiments, component A and component B both comprise silicone. Component A can include, for example, a combination of silicone resins. Component B may include, for example, silicone rubber.

Component A is the component of the composition of the present invention that forms a multilayered layer closest to the keratinous material after the composition has been applied to the keratinous material. This layer of the multilayer structure is referred to below as "Layer A". According to a preferred embodiment, Component A/Layer A has an affinity for the surface of the keratinous material due to the surface energy properties between Component A/Layer A and the keratinous material.

Component B is the component of the composition of the present invention which forms a multilayered layer furthest from the keratinous material after the composition has been applied to the keratinous material. This layer of the multilayer structure is referred to below as "Layer B". According to a preferred embodiment, component B/layer B has an affinity for the air interface.

According to the present invention, all weights and weight ratios described herein referring to component A and component B refer to the amount of active material (ie, non-volatile material) in those components. Similarly, all weights and weight ratios herein referring to Layer A and Layer B refer to the amount of active material present in Layer A and Layer B after evaporation of the volatile solvent.

Component A and component B are immiscible in the composition of the present invention prior to application to the keratinous material. Preferably, the immiscibility of the immiscible ingredients is the incompatibility between those two ingredients when the composition is at rest, the incompatibility between those two ingredients after being applied to the keratin material. due to solubility, or both.

In one or more embodiments, the immiscibility of immiscible components is, for example, differences in the components' viscosities, glass transition temperatures, interfacial tensions, solubility parameters, densities, and/or chemical/structural incompatibility; and/or due to differences such as temperature and/or pressure induced differences.

For example, the immiscibility of immiscible components when the composition is at rest, e.g., chemical/structural incompatibility, differences in interfacial tension between components, e.g. Differences in interfacial tension between the phases, differences in viscosity, differences in the glass transition temperatures of the polymers in each phase, and/or differences induced by temperature and/or pressure may be responsible.

For example, the immiscibility of immiscible components when the composition is being applied is determined by, for example, chemical/structural incompatibility, differences in interfacial tension between components, density of components after solvent has evaporated. differences and/or temperature and/or pressure induced differences.

In one or more embodiments, just prior to and/or during application to the keratinous material, the compositions of the present invention contain component A and component A when the composition of the present invention is applied to the keratinous material. B is mixed or blended so as to be temporarily miscible.

Component A separates from component B after the composition of the present invention has been applied to the keratin material. When the composition dries on the applied keratinous material, the immiscible components A and B form a multi-layered structure comprising, for example, layers A and B, respectively, on the keratinous material below.

According to one or more embodiments of the present invention, component B results in a horizontal layer B after the composition of the present invention has been applied to the keratinous material, i. It is planar so that it can have refractive properties that impart luster. According to these embodiments, component B has self-leveling properties, which results in a level layer B after application. The gloss of such compositions can be enhanced, if desired, by adding one or more gloss or gloss enhancing agents having high refractive index properties. Alternatively, such compositions may be provided with matte properties by the addition of one or more matting agents.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, after the composition of the present invention has been applied to the keratinous material, component B results in a layer B that is not horizontal, i.e. the layer B has matt properties to the composition. It is not flat so as to give According to these embodiments, component B does not have self-leveling properties, which results in layer B that is not horizontal after application. The matte properties of such compositions can be enhanced, if desired, by adding one or more matting agents. Alternatively, such compositions may be provided with gloss or luster or gloss properties by adding one or more gloss or luster or gloss enhancing agents having high refractive index properties. Another advantage of the composition is that when used as a base layer/substrate, the self-leveling properties of the composition may provide a smooth surface, thereby reducing the appearance of skin imperfections.

According to the invention, the multilayer structure comprises layer A and layer B. In certain cases, depending on factors such as component ratios, component concentrations, solvent evaporation properties, and Tg of the polymer, these layers may be slightly mixed with each other after being applied to the keratinous material, resulting in , so that layer A has more A and less B, and/or layer B has more B and/or less A. Preferably, layer A comprises no more than 40% of layer B, preferably no more than 30% of layer B, preferably no more than 20% of layer B, preferably no more than 10% of layer B, preferably no more than 5% of layer B ( (including all ranges and subranges therebetween). Similarly, preferably layer B is no more than 40% of layer A, preferably no more than 30% of layer A, preferably no more than 20% of layer A, preferably no more than 10% of layer B, preferably no more than 5% of layer A. % and below (including all ranges and subranges therebetween).

Factors affecting the separation of component A and component B after application to the keratin material include, for example, the surface energy of the substrate, the density of each component, the evaporation properties of the solvent, the Tg of the film former, and/or The properties described above may include, but are not limited to, the viscosity of the film former.

While not wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it is believed that component A has surface energy properties that are closer to those of the keratinous material to which it is applied compared to component B. For example, the surface energy of skin is estimated to be 36 mN/m. Therefore, if component A has a surface energy of about 36 mN/m, it is believed that component A can migrate to the skin. Component B preferably has a lower surface energy, making it more likely to migrate towards the air interface.

While not wishing to be bound by any particular theory, the interfacial tension of components A and B influences phase separation (specifically, the rate at which components A and B separate after coating). It is thought that Such phase separation may be affected by the differences discussed above, e.g., the difference in temperature between component A and component B, the difference in Tg between component A and component B (the higher the Tg of a component, the longer it takes to phase separate); It is believed that differences such as differences in the weight fraction of film former and/or differences in pressure between component A and component B may be affected.

Such differences are discussed further below.

Glass transition temperature (Tg)
According to a preferred embodiment, Component A and/or Component B have a temperature below 60°C, preferably below 55°C, preferably below 50°C, preferably below normal human body temperature (98.6°F or 37°C). Contains a combination of silicone resins having at least one glass transition temperature.

A preferred method of determining the Tg is to remove all volatile solvents from the layer and determine the Tg by differential scanning calorimetry.

Density According to a preferred embodiment, component A and component B have different density characteristics, the difference rendering component A and component B immiscible in the composition of the present invention. Preferably component A/layer A and component B/layer B are 0.001 to 1 kg/m ³ , preferably 0.005 to 0.8 kg/m ³ , preferably 0.01 to 0.6 kg/m ³ (including all ranges and subranges therebetween).

Temperature According to a preferred embodiment, component A and component B are affected by temperature, whereby component A and component B are temperature sensitive, unlike emulsions which are considered stable at temperatures below 50°C. It becomes immiscible in the compositions of the present invention under such conditions for a period of time known in the art.

Weight Fractions According to a preferred embodiment, component A and/or component B comprises at least one polymer, for example a film former having a critical entanglement molecular weight (M _c ), whereby Become.

When present in component A, at least one polymer has a _Mc less than wMw, where w is the weight fraction of the polymer and Mw is the molecular weight of the polymer.

When present in component B, at least one polymer has a _Mc less than or equal to wMw of 10 ⁸ g/mol or more.

Further, according to a preferred embodiment, the viscosity of at least one polymer in component B is above 350 cSt, preferably above 500 cSt, preferably above 750 cSt, preferably above 1000 cSt (including all ranges and subranges therebetween). including).

Ingredients Ingredient A and Ingredient B can differ in many ways, primarily based on the different functionalities associated with Layer A and Layer B. For example, if layer A performs a transfer resistance or adhesion function, the components of component A can be selected to achieve transfer resistance or adhesion. Similarly, at least one colorant may be added to component A if layer A performs a color enhancing function. Also, for example, Layer B performs a gloss or gloss enhancing function and/or provides better feel (e.g., provides a more comfortable feel) and/or provides a barrier layer that resists color transfer. In some cases, the components of component B can be selected to achieve gloss, gloss, comfort, and/or barrier layer properties. However, at the interface of Layer A and Layer B, the interface of Layer A may have properties more associated with Layer B (e.g., gloss) while Layer B has properties more associated with Layer A (e.g., adhesion). It should be understood that you can have

According to a preferred embodiment, component A comprises a combination of silicone resins and optionally at least one colorant, layer A providing adhesion, transfer resistance and/or color properties to the multilayer structure. . According to such embodiments, component B may comprise at least one gloss enhancing agent, at least one comfort agent, and/or at least one barrier agent, wherein layer B provides gloss, comfort, and/or barrier properties. Provided in a multi-layer structure.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention contains less than 1% of fluorinated compounds.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention contains less than 0.5% of fluorinated compounds.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is free of fluorinated compounds.

According to a preferred embodiment, at least one of the same solvents is used for component A and component B. Preferably, the majority of all solvents present in each component are the same for each component.

According to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of component A to component B is, for example, 1:50 to 1.5:1, 1:75 to 1.5:1, 1:50 to 1.5:1, 1 : 20 to 1.5:1, 1:50 to 50:1, 1:75 to 20:1, 1:50 to 10:1, or 1:20 to 10:1 (all ranges and (including subranges).

Examples of acceptable ingredients added to Component A and/or Component B are discussed below.

Combinations of Silicone Resins According to the present invention, compositions are provided comprising at least one modified MQ resin, at least one MQ resin, and at least one polypropylsilsesquioxane resin.

As used herein, the term "resin" means a crosslinked or non-crosslinked three-dimensional structure. Silicone resin nomenclature is known in the art as "MDTQ" nomenclature, by which silicone resins are described according to the various monomeric siloxane units that make up the polymer.

Each "MDTQ" letter represents a different type of unit. The letter M denotes the monofunctional unit ( _CH3 ) _{3SiO1 /2} . This unit is considered monofunctional because the silicone atoms share only one oxygen when the unit is part of a polymer. An "M" unit can be represented by the following structure.

At least one of the methyl groups of the M units can be replaced by another group to give units having the formula [R(CH ₃ ) ₂ ]SiO _1/2 , for example represented in the structure below.

wherein R is selected from groups other than methyl groups. Non-limiting examples of such groups other than methyl groups include alkyl groups other than methyl groups, alkene groups, alkyne groups, hydroxyl groups, thiol groups, ester groups, acid groups, ether groups, and groups other than methyl groups. Groups can be further substituted.

The symbol D denotes a difunctional unit ( _CH3 )2SiO2 _{/ 2} , where two oxygen atoms attached to the silicone atom are used for bonding to the rest of the polymer. The "D" unit, the major constituent of dimethicone oil, can be represented as follows.

At least one of the methyl groups of the D units can be replaced by another group to give units having the formula [R(CH ₃ )]SiO _2/2 , for example.

The symbol T means the trifunctional unit (CH ₃ )SiO _3/2 and can be represented as follows.

At least one of the methyl groups of the T units can be replaced by another group to give units having the formula [R]SiO _3/2 , for example.

Finally, the letter Q denotes a tetrafunctional unit SiO _4/2 in which a silicon atom is bonded to 4 hydrogen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.

Therefore, a vast number of different silicone polymers can be manufactured. Furthermore, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the properties of each potential silicone polymer will vary depending on the type of monomer, the type of substitution, the size of the polymer chains, the degree of cross-linking, and the size of any side chains. be.

MQ resin, also known as trimethylsiloxysilicate, can be represented by the formula below.
[( _CH3 ) _3SiO ] _x (SiO4 _/2 ) _y

(ie MQ units) where x and y can range, for example, from 10-150, preferably from 20-120, preferably from 40-100, preferably from 50-80.

Resin MQ available from Wacker, Momentive Performance Materials, Grant Industries, Siltech, Milliken, and Dow Corning is an example of an acceptable commercially available trimethylsiloxysilicate. Additionally, trimethylsiloxysilicate is commercially available from Momentive Performance (trade name SR1000) and Wacker (trade name TMS 803). MQ resins are also commercially available from Dow Chemical in solvents such as, for example, cyclomethicone. However, according to the invention, the MQ resin may also be used in the form of 100% active material, ie not contained in a solvent.

Silsesquioxanes, on the other hand, can be represented by the formula:
(RSiO3 _/2 ) _{. x}

(ie, T units) where x can have values ranging, for example, from 2-3 up to thousands.

Polypropylsilsesquioxane is a silsesquioxane in which R is a propyl group. These compounds and their synthesis are described, for example, in patent application WO2005/075567, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

Examples of commercially available polypropylsilsesquioxane resins that may be mentioned include those sold by Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 670 Fluid or 680 Fluid. Typically such commercial products are polypropylsilsesquioxane diluted in a volatile oil such as a volatile hydrocarbon oil or a volatile silicone oil such as D5. Dow Corning 670 Fluid and 680 Fluid have the general formula _{RnSiO (4-n)/2} , where R is independently selected from hydrogen atoms and monovalent hydrocarbon groups containing 3 carbon atoms. and more than 80 mol % of R are propyl groups, n has a value of 1.0 to 1.4, more than 60 mol % of the copolymer contains RSiO _3/2 units, and 0.2 to 10 It has a hydroxyl or alkoxy content of wt.%, for example 1-4 wt.%, preferably 5-10 wt.%, more preferably 6-8 wt.%. Preferably, the polypropylsilsesquioxane resin has a ,000 g/mol and a Tg of less than about 37°C, about -100, -50, -37, or -20 to about 37°C.

Preferably, at least one MQ resin and at least one polypropylsilsesquioxane resin are blended prior to addition to the composition of the present invention. Examples of such commercially available resins include polypropylsilsesquioxane in isododecane.

Modified MQ resins are MQ resins in which at least one of the methyl groups having M units is replaced by another group as described above. Preferably at least one M unit is replaced by a T unit. Suitable T units for such replacement include, but are not limited to, polysilsesquioxanes of the formula ((R)SiO _3/2 ) _x (T units), wherein x is greater than 100; wherein the R groups are independently methyl or other substituents as defined above; polymethylsilsesquioxanes where R is a methyl group; oxanes, and polyphenylsilsesquioxanes where R is a phenyl group. Preferably, the MQ resin is modified with one or more polymethylsilsesquioxanes. An example of such a T-modified MQ resin is GRANRESIN MQI-T50 from Grant Industries.

According to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of (MQ resin + polypropylsilsesquioxane) to modified MQ resin is from about 10:1 to about 1:10, preferably from about 5:1 to about 1:5, preferably from about 3:1 to about 1:3, preferably from about 2:1 to about 1:2, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of (MQ resin + polypropylsilsesquioxane) present in the composition of the present invention is from about 5% to about 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from about 7% to about 40%, preferably from about 10% to about 35% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of MQ resin present in the composition of the present invention is from about 2.5% to about 30% by weight, preferably about 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. to about 26% by weight, preferably from about 5% to about 22% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of polypropylsilsesquioxane present in the composition of the present invention is from about 2.5% to about 15%, preferably about 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 5% to about 14% by weight, preferably from about 5% to about 13% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

According to preferred embodiments, the amount of modified MQ resin present in the composition of the present invention is from about 5% to about 45%, preferably from about 7% to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. % by weight, preferably in the range of about 10% to about 35% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

It should be appreciated that the compositions of the present invention may optionally further comprise other film formers known in the art in addition to the combination of silicone resins described above. However, according to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention do not contain film formers other than the silicone resin combination described above. When other film-forming agents are present, the film-forming agents are preferably from about 0.05% to about 20%, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight of the total weight of the ingredients in which they are found. , preferably in an amount from 0.5% to 10% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

Silicone Compounds In one or more embodiments, the compositions of the present invention comprise at least one silicone compound. Preferably component B comprises one or more silicone compounds that are not film formers. Also preferably, at least one silicone compound has a lower surface energy than the surface energy of the film former in another component. Thus, for example, if component B contains at least one silicone compound that is not a film former, the silicone compound preferably has a lower surface energy than the film former in component A.

A silicone compound can be, for example, a polymeric compound comprising silicon bonded to at least one oxygen, and in a further embodiment two oxygens. In some embodiments, the silicon is attached to hydrocarbons (eg, C1-22 linear, branched, and/or aryl) such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, and phenyl. In one or more embodiments, the silicone compound comprises polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS). In some embodiments, the silicone compound itself may be linear, branched, or dendritic. In a further embodiment, the silicone compound is linear or substantially linear. In one or more embodiments, the silicone compound is selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbons, alcohols, esters, acids, ketones, amines, amides, epoxies, vinylic (e.g., alkene or alkyne groups), halogens, hydrides, and the like. containing chain termination. For example, in embodiments where the silicone compound comprises polydimethylsiloxane, the compound may be chain terminated with —OH or methyl groups.

In one or more embodiments, the term "silicone compound" includes, but is not limited to, silicone gums, silicone fluids, and silicone waxes. When present, the silicone compound may impart properties to the composition (eg, may improve gloss or matte properties). In one or more embodiments, the silicone compound is present in an amount sufficient to achieve a viscosity of greater than about 1,000 cSt and/or less than about 22,000,000 cSt. In some embodiments, the viscosity is from about 1,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000, 30,000, 40,000, 50,000, or 60,000 cSt to about 100,000,200 cSt. or 22,000,000 cSt, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. A particularly preferred viscosity range for the combination of silicone compounds present in the compositions of the present invention is from 20,000 cSt to 800,000 cSt, with 25,000 cSt to 750,000 cSt being most preferred.

Gloss/Brilliance Enhancer According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, at least one gloss enhancer can be added to Component A, Component B, or both. Preferably, the gloss-enhancing agent is selected from the group consisting of agents that facilitate self-leveling of the layer, agents with a high refractive index, and mixtures thereof. As described below, such gloss-enhancing agents can be the silicone compounds described above.

In the case of dermatological compositions, particularly foundation compositions, such gloss enhancers may impart a luminous and/or dewy effect to the compositions described herein. For example, one trend in foundation is dewy/shine foundations (especially long lasting shine) rather than a completely matte look. This is usually accomplished by adding oils or pearls to the formula, but such formulas may not last long. The compositions described herein can provide both a long lasting dewy/luminous appearance at the same time.

Suitable gloss enhancing agents have a refractive index in the range of about 1.45 to about 1.60 and preferably have a weight average A compound having a molecular weight can be mentioned. Examples of such agents include phenylated silicones such as those marketed by Goldschmidt under the trade name "ABIL AV 8853", "DC 554", "DC 555", "DC 556", and "SF 558". and by Rhone-Poulenc under the trade name "SILBIONE 70633 V 30".

Further examples of suitable phenylated silicones include those commercially available from Wacker Silicones, such as BELSIL PDM 20, a phenylated silicone having a viscosity of approximately 20 cSt at 25°C, having a viscosity of approximately 200 cSt at 25°C. BELSIL PDM 200, a phenylated silicone; BELSIL PDM 1000, a phenylated silicone having a viscosity of approximately 1000 cSt at 25°C.

Further examples of suitable gloss enhancers include polycyclopentadiene, polypropylene glycol) dibenzoate (nD=1.5345), aminopropylphenyl trimethicone (nD=1.49-1.51), PURESYN 4E68 from ExxonMobil. Pentaerythrityl tetraoleate (nD=1.473), commercially available from Croda Inc. and PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate (nD=1.4696), commercially available as CRODAMOL STS from Co., Inc., but are not limited to these.

Particularly preferred gloss enhancers are phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicone and trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraoleate and PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate.

Suitable gloss-enhancing agents include those that provide self-leveling properties to the compositions of the present invention. Suitable examples of such compositions include, but are not limited to, the silicone gums discussed below.

A silicone rubber may correspond to the formula:

During the ceremony,
R ₇ , R ₈ , R ₁₁ and R ₁₂ are the same or different and are each selected from alkyl radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
R ₉ and R ₁₀ are the same or different and are each selected from alkyl radicals and aryl radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
X is selected from alkyl radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydroxyl radicals, and vinyl radicals;
n and p are 350 cSt to 50,000,000 cSt, preferably 500 cSt to 40,000,000 cSt, preferably 750 cSt to 30,000,000 cSt, preferably 850 cSt to 20,000,000 cSt, preferably 950 cSt, preferably 950 cSt, in the silicone rubber It is selected to provide a viscosity of -18,000,000 cSt, preferably from 1000 cSt to 10,000,000 cSt, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

In general, n and p can each take values ranging from 0 to 10,000, such as from 0 to 5,000.

Among the silicone rubbers that can be used according to the invention, the following may be mentioned:
a product sold or manufactured by General Electric under the name SE30, for example, in which the substituents R ₇ to R ₁₂ and X represent a methyl group, p is 0 and n is 2,700;
A product sold or manufactured by Wacker under the name AK 500 000, for example, in which the substituents R ₇ to R ₁₂ and X represent a methyl group, p is 0 and n is 2,300. ,
Substituents R ₇ to R ₁₂ represent a methyl group, substituent X represents a hydroxyl group, p is 0 and n is 2,700 (13% solution in cyclopentasiloxane), e.g. products sold or manufactured under the name Q2-1401 by
Substituents R ₇ to R ₁₂ represent a methyl group, substituent X represents a hydroxyl group, p is 0 and n is 2,700 (13% solution in polydimethylsiloxane), e.g. and the substituents R ₇ , R ₈ , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and X represent a methyl group and the substituents R ₉ and R ₁₀ are aryl represents a group whereby the molecular weight of the rubber is about 600,000, for example the product sold or manufactured by the company Rhone-Poulenc (Rhodia Chimie) under the name 761.

In a preferred embodiment, the silicone rubber corresponds to the formula:

wherein the terminal Si can be other than methyl and the R groups are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, t-butyl, amyl, hexyl, vinyl, allyl, sicohexyl, phenyl, and mixtures thereof, which may be represented by repeated substitutions on Si such as alkyl having 1 to 6 carbon atoms which may be linear, branched and/or functionalized. The silicone rubbers used in the present invention may be terminated by triorganosilyl groups of formula _R'3 , where R' is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, an alkoxyl group. , and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, Component B/Layer B comprises at least one gloss-enhancing agent.

According to a preferred embodiment, component B/layer B has self-leveling properties resulting in a flatter interface between layer A and layer B and/or between layer B and air, and this flatter interface provides light diffraction, light refraction, and/or light reflection properties to the gloss-enhancing layer B of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, at least two silicone compounds are present in the composition of the invention, such as silicone fluids (eg the phenylated silicones described above) and/or silicone gums.

According to a preferred embodiment, the agent that facilitates the self-leveling of the layer, such as silicone rubber, when present, is preferably from about 0.01% to about 90% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably 1% by weight. It is present in an amount from 5% to 85% by weight, preferably from 5% to 80% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

According to a preferred embodiment, when present, the agent with high refractive index, such as phenylated silicone oil, is preferably from about 0.05% to about 90%, preferably 0.05% by weight of the total weight of the composition. It is present in an amount from 1% to 75% by weight, preferably from 1% to 50% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, at least two silicone compounds are present in the composition of the invention, such as silicone fluids (eg the phenylated silicones described above) and/or silicone gums.

According to a preferred embodiment, the gloss enhancer is preferably from about 0.05% to about 90%, preferably from 0.1% to 50%, preferably 1% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Present in an amount of ~35% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

Matte enhancer (matting agent)
According to preferred embodiments of the present invention, at least one matte enhancer can be added to Component A, Component B, or both. With respect to component B, whether component B is not self-leveling and/or layer B has refractive properties that impart matte properties to the composition described above, at least one matte enhancer can be added. .

Suitable matte enhancers include, but are not limited to, matting fillers such as talc, silica, silicone elastomers, and polyamides, and waxes such as beeswax and Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax.

According to preferred embodiments, the matte enhancer preferably comprises from about 0.05% to about 90%, preferably from 0.1% to 50%, preferably 1% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Present in an amount of ~35% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

Colorants According to one or more embodiments of the present invention, compositions are provided that further comprise at least one colorant. Preferably, such coloring compositions may be cosmetic compositions such as, for example, foundations or eye shadows. According to such embodiments, the at least one colorant may be selected from pigments, dyes, pearlescent pigments, and pearlescent agents.

Pigments that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be selected from white, colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric, non-polymeric, coated and uncoated pigments. Representative examples of mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue. Representative examples of organic pigments include carbon black, D&C type pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, and aluminum.

Representative examples of inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include rutile or anatase titanium dioxide coded in the Color Index under the reference CI 77,891, CI 77,499, 77,492, and 77,491. Black, yellow, red, and brown iron oxides coded by reference name, manganese violet (CI 77,742), ultramarine blue (CI 77,007), chromium oxide (CI 77,288), chromium hydrate ( CI 77,289), and ferric blue (CI 77,510), and mixtures thereof.

Representative examples of organic pigments and lakes useful in the present invention include D&C Red No. 19 (CI 45,170), D&C Red No. 9 (CI 15,585), D&C Red No. 21 (CI 45,380), D&C Orange No. 4 (CI 15,510), D&C Orange No. 5 (CI 45,370), D&C Red No. 27 (CI 45,410), D&C Red No. 13 (CI 15,630), D&C Red No. 7 (CI 15,850), D&C Red No. 6 (CI 15,850), D&C Yellow No. 5 (CI 19,140), D&C Red No. 36 (CI 12,085), D&C Orange No. 10 (CI 45,425), D&C Yellow No. 6 (CI 15,985), D&C Red No. 30 (CI 73,360), D&C Red No. 3 (CI 45,430), and cochineal carmine (CI 75,570), and mixtures thereof based dyes or lakes.

Representative examples of pearlescent pigments useful in the present invention include white pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide-coated mica, titanium dioxide, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxychloride-coated mica, colored pearlescent pigments such as iron oxide. titanium mica with ferric blue, titanium mica with chromium oxide, titanium mica with organic pigments of the type described above, and those based on bismuth oxychloride, and mixtures thereof things are mentioned.

Pearlescent pigments which can be used according to the invention include white pearlescent pigments such as titanium or bismuth oxychloride coated mica, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxide, ferric blue or titanium mica with chromium oxide, those mentioned above. titanium mica with organic pigments selected from, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. Pearlescent pigments, if present, may range up to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, with values between (including all ranges and subranges) in the composition.

When present, colorants may comprise up to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.01% to 40%, even from 0.1% to 30% by weight, all in between. (including ranges and subranges) may be present in the composition. For certain products, pigments, including pearlescent pigments, may represent, for example, up to 50% by weight of the composition.

Embodiments without colorants (eg, inorganic or organic pigments or pearlescent agents) or embodiments with relatively low amounts of colorants may be suitable as skin primers. As used herein, a "grounder" or "undercoat" is a preparatory coating applied over a keratinous material (eg, skin or lips) prior to application of subsequent cosmetic layers. The basecoat allows better adhesion of these subsequent layers to the surface and can increase their durability. For example, applying a primer to skin or other keratinous materials may provide additional protection to those materials, particularly in terms of longevity. By priming the skin or other keratinous material, it preserves the integrity of subsequent cosmetic layers, particularly those comprising the compositions disclosed herein, from fading, wrinkling, and continued color intensity throughout the wear period. can also help Additionally, the substrate can often provide a uniform undercoat, resulting in increased uniformity of color and texture in the following coats. Such primers may thus serve as a base for another foundation or eyeshadow composition, which may, for example, increase smoothness or help other compositions adhere better. Such substrates may also include matting agents or elastomers (eg, silicone elastomers).

Alternatively, embodiments that do not contain colorants (e.g., inorganic or organic pigments or pearlescent agents), or embodiments that have relatively low amounts of colorants, are used, for example, in lip compositions or compositions for application to foundation. It can be suitable as a top coat such as As used herein, a "topcoat" is a coating that is applied over a previous cosmetic layer after cosmetic has been applied to a keratinous material (eg, lips or skin).

Alternatively, embodiments that do not contain colorants (e.g., inorganic or organic pigments or pearlescent agents), or that have relatively low amounts of colorants, are neither topcoats nor bases for application to keratin materials; It can be an independent product.

According to the aforementioned embodiments, the composition of the present invention contains less than 1% colorant.

According to the aforementioned embodiments, the composition of the present invention contains less than 0.5% colorant.

According to the aforementioned embodiment, the composition of the present invention does not contain a coloring agent.

The composition of the invention may further comprise at least one fatty substance. Suitable fatty substances include oils and/or waxes. "Oil" means any non-aqueous medium that is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). A "wax" for the purposes of this disclosure is a solid at ambient temperature (25°C) and from a solid to a melting temperature above 30°C, such as above 45°C (which can be as high as 150°C); It is a lipophilic aliphatic compound that reversibly changes to the liquid state with a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa at ambient temperature and an anisotropic crystal structure in the solid state. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, the wax itself can be used as a carrier and/or the wax can be mixed with the oil to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture.

Suitable oils include volatile and/or non-volatile oils. Such oils can be any acceptable oil including, but not limited to, silicone oils and/or hydrocarbon oils.

According to certain embodiments, the compositions of the invention preferably comprise one or more volatile silicone oils. Examples of such volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity of 6 cSt or less at room temperature and having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones having from 1 to 10 is optionally substituted with an alkyl or alkoxy group having up to carbon atoms. Specific oils that can be used in the present invention include octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile oils that may be used include KF 96A, a commercial product from Shin Etsu with a flash point of 94°C and a viscosity of 6 cSt. Preferably, the volatile silicone oil has a flash point of at least 40°C.

Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils are listed in Table 1 below.

Additionally, volatile linear silicone oils can be used in the present invention. Suitable volatile linear silicone oils include those described in US Pat. No. 6,338,839 and WO03/042221, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. In one embodiment, the volatile linear silicone oil is decamethyltetrasiloxane. In another embodiment, decamethyltetrasiloxane is further combined with another solvent that is more volatile than decamethyltetrasiloxane.

According to certain embodiments of the invention, the composition preferably comprises one or more volatile non-silicone oils, which may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile esters, and volatile ethers. Examples of such volatile non-silicone oils include volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, especially branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes such as C ₈ -C ₁₆ isoalkanes (aka , isoparaffins), isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane, and oils sold under the trade names, for example, Isopar or Permethyl. Preferably, the volatile non-silicone oil has a flash point of at least 40°C.

Non-limiting examples of volatile non-silicone volatile oils are provided in Table 2 below.

Solvent/oil volatility can be determined using the evaporation rate described in US Pat. No. 6,338,839, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

According to certain embodiments of the invention, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile oil. Examples of non-volatile oils that can be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to, polar oils such as:
- Hydrocarbon-based vegetable oils with a high triglyceride content consisting of glycerol fatty acid esters (the fatty acids of which can have varying chain lengths and these chains can be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated). These oils are, inter alia, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, karite butter, castor oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, Sesame oil, mallow oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, or musk oil. rose oil, or caprylic/capric triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold by the company Dynamit Nobel under the trade names Miglyol 810, 812, and 818);
- synthetic oils or esters of the formula R ₅ COOR ₆ , wherein R ₅ represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue having 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as 7 to 19 carbon atoms; R ₆ represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain having 1-40 carbon atoms, such as 3-20 carbon atoms, and R ₆ +R ₇ is 10 or more, for example parcelin oil (octanoic acid cetostearyl), isononyl isononanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, ethylhexyl 2-palmitate, and octanoic, decanoic, or ricinoleic acid alcohols or polyalcohols, hydroxylated esters , for example, isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate, and pentaerythritol esters),
- synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
- _C8 - _C26 fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetary alcohol, and - mixtures thereof.

Further examples of non-volatile oils that can be used in the present invention include polyolefins, specifically petrolatum (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene. and mixtures thereof.

In one or more embodiments, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention may also contain at least one high viscosity ester. Examples of these include, but are not limited to, C ₁ -C ₃₀ monoesters and polyesters of sugars and related materials. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol moiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the constituent acids and sugars, these esters can be in either liquid or solid form at room temperature. Suitable liquid esters include glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated), mannose tetraesters of mixed soybean oil fatty acids, galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, arabinose tetraesters of linoleic acid, tetralinoleic acid. Xylose, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, sorbitol hexaester of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acid, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptoleate, octaoleate include, but are not limited to, sucrose, and mixtures thereof. Suitable solid esters include sorbitol hexaesters in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are palmitoleate and arachidate in a 1:2 molar ratio, linoleate and behenate in a 1:3 molar ratio. raffinose octaester, which is an ester; sunflower seed oil fatty acid and maltose heptaester, which is a lignocerate ester, in a molar ratio of 3:4 for the esterified carboxylic acid moiety; and behenate, and sucrose octaester in which the esterified carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate, and behenate in a molar ratio of 1:3:4, but these is not limited to In one embodiment, the ester has a degree of esterification of 7-8, and the fatty acid moiety is C18 monounsaturated and/or diunsaturated and behenic acid, and the unsaturation:behenic acid molar ratio is 1: 7-3:5 sucrose polyester. In another embodiment, the sugar polyester is a sucrose octaester having about 7 behenate fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety in the molecule. Other ingredients may include sucrose cottonseed oil or soybean oil fatty acid esters.

In one or more embodiments, the high viscosity ester comprises sucrose acetate isobutyrate. One example of a suitable sucrose acetate isobutyrate compound is SAIB-100®, commercially available from Eastman® (Kingsport, Tenn.). This ester has a viscosity of about 100,000 cps at 30°C and a refractive index of about 1.5 at 20°C.

Acrylic Polymer According to a preferred embodiment, the at least one oil, when present, comprises from about 5 to about 60 weight percent, more preferably from about 10 to about 50 weight percent, most preferably from about 10 to about 50 weight percent, based on the total weight of the composition. It is present in the compositions of this invention in amounts ranging from 15 to about 35 weight percent, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention further comprises at least one wax. Suitable examples of waxes that can be used in accordance with the present disclosure include those commonly used in the cosmetic field, including those of natural origin such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouri wax. Chestnut wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax or sugar cane wax, rice wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, and hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated castor oil or jojoba oil, polymerization of ethylene or synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes obtained by copolymerization, and Fischer-Tropsch waxes, or other fatty acid esters such as octacosanyl stearate, glycerides which are concrete at 30°C, eg 45°C.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one silicone wax. Examples of suitable silicone waxes include alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones with alkyl or alkoxy chains having in the range of 10 to 45 carbon atoms, solids at 30° C. and ester chains having at least 10 carbon atoms. Poly(di)methylthrioxane ester, di(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrastearate, formula (R ₂ R′) sold or manufactured by Heterene under the name HEST 2T-4S SiO _1/2 ) _x (R″SiO _3/2 ) _y , wherein x and y have values of 0.05 to 0.95 and R is an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms; an aryl group, a carbinol group, or an amino group, wherein R is a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 9 to 40 carbon atoms, and R″ is a monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, aryl Alkylated silicone acrylate copolymer waxes containing at least 40 mol % siloxy units having a of which C30-C45 alkyldimethylsilylpolypropylsilsesquioxane is a specific example), and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention further comprises at least one long-chain alcohol wax. Preferably, at least one long chain alcohol wax has an average carbon chain length of from about 20 to about 60 carbon atoms, most preferably from about 30 to about 50 carbon atoms. Suitable examples of long chain alcohol waxes include, but are not limited to, alcohol waxes commercially available from Baker Hughes under the Performacol trade name, such as Performacol 350, 425, and 550. Most preferably, the long chain alcohol wax has a melting temperature in the range of about 93°C to about 105°C.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention contains less than 1% wax.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention contains less than 0.5% wax.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is wax-free.

When present, the wax(es) may range from 1 to 30%, such as 2 to 20%, such as 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (all ranges therebetween). and subranges).

Additional Additives According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is a composition for application to keratinous substances such as skin or lips. According to these embodiments, the compositions of the present invention can include ingredients typically found in cosmetic compositions such as, for example, water, active ingredients, moisturizers, surfactants, and fillers. can. The compositions according to the invention can therefore contain any additive normally used in the field under consideration. Dispersants such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid), antioxidants, essential oils, sunscreens, preservatives, fragrances, fillers, neutralizers, cosmetic dermatological actives such as emollients, Humectants, vitamins, essential fatty acids, surfactants, silicone elastomers, thickeners, gelling agents, particles, pasty compounds, viscosity increasing agents, and the like can be added. A non-exhaustive list of such ingredients can be found in US Patent Application Publication No. 2004/0170586, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. Further examples of suitable additional ingredients can be found in other references incorporated into this application by reference. Still further examples of such additional ingredients can be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook ( ^9th ed. 2002).

A person skilled in the art will recognize that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not adversely affected, or substantially not adversely affected by the envisaged additions, optional additional additives and/or or would choose their amounts carefully.

These materials can be variably selected by one skilled in the art to prepare a composition with desired properties, such as consistency or texture.

These additives may range from 0% to 99%, such as from 0.01% to 90%, and further from 0.1% to 50% (if present), and all amounts therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition. (including ranges and subranges) may be present in the composition.

In one or more embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, i.e., contain a physiologically acceptable non-toxic vehicle and are applied to human skin. It should be possible.

Specifically, suitable gelling agents for the oil phase include, but are not limited to, lipophilic clays or hydrophilic clays.

The term "hydrophilic clay" means a clay that can swell in water, which swells in water and forms a colloidal dispersion after hydration. These clays are already well-known products per se and are described, for example, in the book "Mineralogie des argiles" (S. Caillere, S. Henin, M. Rautureau, ^2nd edition 1982, Masson). The teachings are incorporated herein by reference. Clays are silicates containing cations that may be selected from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such products that may be mentioned include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonite, hectorite, bentonite, beidellite and saponite, and also clays of the vermiculite, stevensite and chlorite families. These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin.

Hydrophilic clays that may be mentioned include smectite products such as saponite, hectorite, montmorillonite, bentonite and beidellite. Hydrophilic clays that may be mentioned include synthetic hectorite (also known as Laponite), for example the products sold by the company Laporte under the names Laponite XLG, Laponite RD and Laponite RDS (these products are sodium magnesium silicate, magnesium sodium lithium silicate), bentonite, such as the product sold by Rheox under the name Bentone HC, magnesium aluminum silicate, particularly hydrated magnesium aluminum silicate, such as , Veegum Ultra, Veegum HS, and Veegum DGT by Vanderbilt, or a synthetic form of calcium silicate, specifically Micro-cel C, sold by the company. mentioned.

The term "lipophilic clay" means a clay that is capable of swelling in a lipophilic medium, which clay will swell in the medium and thus form a colloidal dispersion. Examples of lipophilic clays that may be mentioned include modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone Gel VS38 from Rheox) and hectorite modified with C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ fatty acid ammonium chloride, e.g. Hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride sold by the company Rheox under the name CE or sold by the company Elementis under the name Bentone 38V® (CTFA name: disteadimonium hectorite ).

In particular, among the gelling agents that may be used, mention may be made of silica particles. Preferably, the silica particles are fumed silica particles.

Suitable silicas include hydrophobic silicas having a particle size of less than 1 micron, preferably less than 500 nm, preferably less than 100 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 30 nm, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, such as Examples include, but are not limited to pyrogenic silica, optionally with a hydrophobic surface treatment. In fact, it is possible to chemically modify the silica surface by chemical reactions that result in a reduction in the number of silanol groups present on the silica surface. Notably, the silanol groups can be replaced with hydrophobic groups, after which hydrophobic silicas are obtained. Hydrophobic groups can be:

Trimethylsiloxyl groups (notably obtained by treatment of pyrogenic silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane). Silicas treated in this way are called "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are marketed, for example, under the references "AEROSIL R812®" from Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-530®" from Cabot.

Dimethylsilyloxyl groups or polydimethylsiloxane groups (notably obtained by treatment of pyrogenic silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane). Silicas treated in this way are called "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). For example, Degussa's "AEROSIL R972 (registered trademark)", "AEROSIL R974 (registered trademark)", Cabot's "CAB-O-SIL TS-610 (registered trademark)", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720 (registered trademark)”.

Suitable emollients include natural and synthetic oils such as mineral, vegetable and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty alcohols and fatty acids and their esters, esters and ethers of (poly)alkylene glycols, petrolatum and squalane. lanolin alcohol and its derivatives, animal and plant triglycerides, and stearyl alcohol. Non-limiting examples include esters such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate (such as WICKENOL 151 commercially available from Alzo Inc., Sayreville, N.J.), C12-C15 benzoin. Alkyl acids (such as FINSOLV TN from Innospec Active Chemicals), tricaprylic/capric glycerides, pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, mineral oil, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, PPG-15 stearyl ether benzoate, PPG-2-myristyl ether propionate, ethyl methicone, diethylhexylcyclohexane, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides having 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, mallow oil , grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, caprylyl glycol, synthetic esters and ethers, in particular synthetic Fatty acid esters and ethers such as parcelin oil, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate , diisostearyl malate or triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoate, octanoate or decanoate, polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononanoate, pentaerythritol esters such as Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, petroleum jelly, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as pearl leam oil, and/or n-undecane and n-tridecane sold by BASF under the reference Cetiol UT. Mixtures include, but are not limited to.

Preferably, emollients, if present, are generally from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.25% to about 15%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. is present in the compositions of this invention in an amount of active agent ranging from about 0.5% to about 10% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

Suitable preservatives for skin compositions include chlorophenesin, sorbic acid, disodium ethylenedinitrilottetraacetate, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, phytic acid, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate, benzyl alcohol, methyl Including, but not limited to, chloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, and any combination thereof. Thermal protection compositions generally contain from about 0.001% to about 20% by weight preservative, based on 100% total weight of the thermal protection composition. In another aspect, the composition comprises from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight preservative, based on 100% total weight of the heat protection composition.

The composition may optionally also contain a UV filter. UV filters are well known in the art for their use to block ultraviolet radiation. For example, the UV filters can be one or more organic UV filters and/or one or more inorganic UV filters. Non-limiting examples of UV filters include:
i. sparingly soluble UV filters (not appreciably soluble in either water or oil) such as methylenebis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, tris-biphenyltriazine, methanone, 1,1′-(1,4-piperazine diyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phen-yl]-, and mixtures thereof,
ii. Oil-soluble organic UV filters (at least partially soluble in oils or organic solvents) such as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMBM), oxybenzone, sulisobenzone, diethylhexylbutamide triazone ( DBT), Drometrizol trisiloxane, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), Ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS), Ethylhexyl triazone (EHT), Homosalate, Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor octocrylene ( OCR), polysilicone-15, and diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexylbenzoate (DHHB),
iii. inorganic UV filters such as titanium and zinc oxides, iron oxides, zirconium oxides and cerium oxides, and iv. water-soluble UV filters, such as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (PBSA), sulisobenzone sodium salt, benzylene camphor sulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, cinoxate, disodium phenyldibenzylmidazole tetrasulfonate, terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid, PABA, and PEG-25 PABA.

In some cases, UV filters are para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives, benzophenones or aminobenzophenones, anthranilic acid derivatives, β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives, benzotriazoles. derivatives, triazine derivatives, bisresorcinyltriazine, imidazoline derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, benzoxazole derivatives, merocyanines, malonitrile or diphenylmalonate derivatives, chalcones, or mixtures thereof is one or more of

Suitable UV filters may include broadband UV filters that protect against both UVA and UVB radiation, or UV filters that protect against UVA or UVB radiation. In some cases, the one or more UV filters are methylenebis-benzotriazolyltetramethylphenol, diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexylbenzoate, coated or uncoated zinc oxide, ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate, isoamylmethoxycinnamate , homosalate ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, polysilicone-15, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, menthyl anthranilate, and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA.

Additionally, a combination of UV filters can be used. For example, combinations of UV filters include octocrylene, avobenzone (butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane), oxybenzone (benzophenone-3), as described in US Pat. No. 9,107,843, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate), and homosalate.

Method According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention is applied to a keratinous material, e.g. a keratinous material, in an amount sufficient to groom, care for and/or make up the skin or lips. A method is provided for grooming, caring for and/or making up, possibly, a keratinous material. Preferably, "making up" the keratinous material comprises applying at least one coloring agent to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to provide color to the keratinous material.

According to yet another preferred embodiment there is provided a method of enhancing the appearance of keratinous material by applying a composition of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to enhance the appearance of the keratinous material. .

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a method of applying the composition of the invention to a keratinous material (e.g. skin or lips), comprising mixing the composition so that the immiscible ingredients are temporarily miscible Alternatively, a method is provided comprising blending and applying the composition comprising the temporarily miscible ingredients to the keratinous material. In one or more embodiments, the compositions may be mixed in a mix pack or mixed by hand. After being applied to the keratinous material, the components separate and form a multi-layered structure on the keratinous material.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the kit comprises (1) at least one container, (2) at least one applicator, and (3) at least one container capable of forming a multilayer structure after application to the keratinous material. composition comprising at least two immiscible components prior to application.

According to the aforementioned preferred embodiments, the compositions of the invention groom, care for and/or make up keratinous substances, or cover or hide imperfections, skin imperfections or discolorations associated with keratinous substances. or applied topically to the desired area of the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to enhance the appearance of the keratinous material. The composition may be applied to the desired area as needed, preferably once daily, and then preferably allowed to dry before being exposed to contact with clothing or other objects or the like. good too. Preferably, the composition is dried for about 4 minutes or less, more preferably about 2 minutes or less.

Also in accordance with the aforementioned preferred embodiments, the composition is preferably contained in a container suitable for cosmetic compositions. Suitable shapes for such containers include, but are not limited to, any geometric shape such as square, rectangular, pyramidal, oval, circular, hemispherical, and the like. Further, the container may be made of flexible or non-flexible material.

Similarly, any applicator suitable for applying cosmetic compositions can be used in accordance with the present invention, although suitable examples of applicator types include brushes, sticks, pads, rollerballs, and the like. , but not limited to.

Preferably, according to the preferred embodiments described above, the container is capable of mixing or blending the composition of the present invention such that (1) the immiscible ingredients are temporarily miscible, or (2) the immiscible (3) the applicator can mix or blend the compositions of the present invention so that the non-miscible ingredients are temporarily miscible; can cooperate to mix or blend the compositions of the present invention. For example, a flexible container, due to its flexibility, exerts sufficient force when manipulated to temporarily mix or blend the compositions of the invention such that the immiscible ingredients are temporarily incorporated. The applicator, by its design, provides sufficient energy when withdrawn from the container to temporarily mix or blend the composition of the present invention such that the immiscible ingredients are temporarily incorporated. (3) the flexible container and applicator, due to their synergistic design elements, temporarily render the compositions of the present invention so that the immiscible ingredients are temporarily mixed; Sufficient force can be generated when the applicator is withdrawn from the container for mixing or blending.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is a lip composition for application to the lips, such as a lipstick, lip gloss or lip palm. According to these embodiments, the compositions of the present invention can include ingredients typically found in lip compositions such as, for example, colorants, waxes, and gelling agents. Further, the composition may contain water or be anhydrous. Also, the composition can be solid or non-solid.

Preferred embodiments include the following.
1. A cosmetic composition capable of forming a multilayer structure after application to a keratinous material, comprising:
The cosmetic composition comprises at least two immiscible ingredients A and B;
Component A comprises at least one MQ resin, at least one polypropylsilsesquioxane, and at least one modified MQ resin, wherein the modified MQ resin comprises at least one T unit;
Component B comprises from about 0.01% to 90% by weight of one or more silicone compounds, based on the total weight of the composition, sufficient to achieve a viscosity of from about 1,000 cSt to 22,000,000 cSt. A cosmetic composition comprising:
2. A cosmetic composition according to the preceding embodiments, further comprising at least one colorant, preferably an inorganic pigment.
3. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the composition comprises less than 1% by weight of colorant relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, further comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, preferably isododecane.
5. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the silicone compound comprises at least one compound selected from the group consisting of silicone gums, silicone fluids, and mixtures thereof.
6. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the modified MQ resin is polymethylsilsesquioxane/trimethylsiloxysilicate.
7. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein the weight ratio of (MQ resin + polypropylsilsesquioxane) to modified MQ resin weight ratio is from about 10:1 to about 1:10.
8. A kit comprising: (a) a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding embodiments; (b) at least one container containing the cosmetic composition; and (c) at least one applicator. .
9. The kit of the previous embodiment, wherein the container is configured to mix component A and component B.
10. A method of applying a cosmetic composition according to any one of embodiments 1 to 7 above, preferably a part of a kit according to embodiment 8 or 9 above, to a keratin material, comprising: mixing a composition to form a mixed composition in which component A and component B are temporarily mixed together; to the keratinous material.

Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients, reaction conditions, etc. used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about." is. Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained by the present invention. .

Although the numerical ranges and parameters setting out the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting the scope as a result. Percentages are provided on a weight basis.

Example 1 - Compositions Compositions falling within the ranges specified below were prepared and analyzed.

Of particular note, invention composition C has a weight ratio of (MQ resin + polypropylsilsesquioxane) to modified MQ resin of 1:1 and invention composition D has a weight ratio of (MQ resin + polypropylsilsesquioxane) of 2:1. resin + polypropylsilsesquioxane) to modified MQ resin.

Comparative Composition A contained no modified MQ resin. Comparative Composition B did not contain MQ resin + polypropylsilsesquioxane. Comparative Composition E did not contain any modified MQ resin, MQ resin, or polypropylsilsesquioxane.

Compositions AD all contained the same amount of silicone resin on a weight basis.

Example 2 - Testing The composition from Example 1 was tested for long lasting properties. The effects of olive oil, artificial saliva, and acetic acid on long-lasting properties were quantitatively evaluated as follows.

A 1 mL drawdown was prepared on abraded paper and the film was allowed to sit at ambient temperature for 48 hours.

Using ASTM tape, the film was gently removed by applying slight finger pressure across the right side of the film at a 180 degree angle.

A drop was placed on each sample on the film. Four drops of olive oil (2 drops on top, 2 drops on bottom) were used. This procedure (4 drops total) was repeated with artificial saliva and acetic acid. The droplets were arranged so that they did not overlap.

The drops were allowed to sit for 10 minutes and then wiped off with a cotton pad 15 times.

This test was performed in duplicate. The following numerical rating system was used: a scale of 1 to 3 was assigned to the results, with 1 being the least transfer/best film property and 3 being the most transfer/worst film property.

Results (reported as average of duplicate runs) are reported in the table below.

Each sample was analyzed for its long-lasting properties on the film itself (how much of the film was rubbed off) and also for film transfer to the cotton pad used for wiping. In the table above, "cotton" refers to tests related to transfer to cotton pads.

Comparative Composition A exhibited some disintegration in the presence of olive oil and also exhibited transfer to ASTM tape. Comparative Composition B exhibited a poor longevity profile, with an average longevity of 2 out of 3. This sample showed lower performance compared to Comparative Composition A with respect to olive oil, saliva, and acetic acid, and transfer to cotton pads. It also performed similarly to Comparative Composition A with respect to ASTM tape transfer.

Inventive composition C (1:1 ratio) surprisingly exhibited an excellent longevity profile, with an average longevity of 1.22 out of 3. Interestingly, the oil disintegration of the film in inventive composition C was better than comparative compositions A and B.

Inventive Composition D (2:1 ratio) exhibited an excellent longevity profile similar to Inventive Composition C, with an average longevity of 1.21 out of 3, and an improved longevity profile with the silicone resin combination. is provided.

We found that the (MQ resin + polypropylsilsesquioxane) only or modified It was shown to perform significantly better than either MQ resin alone.

Claims (10)

A cosmetic composition capable of forming a multilayer structure after application to a keratinous material, comprising:
said cosmetic composition comprising at least two immiscible ingredients A and B;
Component A comprises at least one MQ resin, at least one polypropylsilsesquioxane, and at least one modified MQ resin, said modified MQ resin comprising at least one T unit;
Component B comprises from about 0.01% to 90% by weight of one or more silicone compounds, based on the total weight of the composition, sufficient to achieve a viscosity of from about 1,000 cSt to 22,000,000 cSt. A cosmetic composition, comprising: A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one colorant, preferably an inorganic pigment. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises less than 1% by weight of colorants relative to the total weight of the composition. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, preferably isododecane. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicone compound comprises at least one compound selected from the group consisting of silicone gums, silicone fluids and mixtures thereof. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the modified MQ resin is polymethylsilsesquioxane/trimethylsiloxysilicate. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of (MQ resin + polypropylsilsesquioxane) to modified MQ resin weight ratio is from about 10:1 to about 1:10. (a) a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims; (b) at least one container containing said cosmetic composition; and (c) at least one applicator, kit. 10. The kit of claim 9, wherein the container is configured to mix component A and component B. A method of applying a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 to a keratinous material, comprising mixing the cosmetic composition to form a mixed composition. , wherein component A and component B are temporarily admixed in said composition; and applying said mixed composition to said keratin material.