KR20220097702A - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition including a sphingolipid, a water-soluble moisturizer, and an oil phase component, but not including an emulsifier and a stabilizer. According to the present invention, in the cosmetic composition, ceramide stably exists without precipitation in any formulation and an excellent skin barrier recovery effect is exhibited.

Description

Cosmetic composition {COSMETIC COMPOSITION}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising sphingolipids.

Sphingolipids are a kind of lipid first discovered by J.L.W.Thudichum in 1884. Its biological role is a mystery (Sphinx-like) substance, so it is named 'sphingolipid'. Sphingolipids are known to play a key role in the center of life phenomena along with regulation of cell growth, proliferation, and differentiation. In particular, as one of the essential components of the stratum corneum of the skin, it is known to play a very important role, such as preventing external harmful substances from penetrating into the skin and suppressing skin moisture loss, and maintaining the orderly structure of the stratum corneum. is also being used.

There are several types of sphingolipids, including ceramide NP, which is currently most widely used in cosmetics, but most of them have low solubility, making it difficult to guarantee the stability of the formulation. In most cases, it is less than 0.1%. Therefore, it is also used in cosmetics by chemically synthesizing a pseudoceramide having a structure similar to that of sphingolipid, which improves formulation stability due to such low solubility and is relatively inexpensive.

The importance of sphingolipids, which plays the most important role in the damaged skin barrier, in terms of improvement of the skin barrier function, is well known. However, as can be seen from its basic structure, sphingolipids are very difficult to handle due to their low formulation stability, such as crystallization or gelation due to high hydrophobic action between molecular chains even when temporarily dissolved. to be. In skin care cosmetics, which are mostly oil-in-water (O/W) formulations, formulations that do not contain sphingolipids are stably emulsified using an emulsifier to stably mix the oil and water phases, and stabilizers are used to maintain the stability. By using one or more water-soluble polymers in combination with the concept of More careful selection is essential. In particular, it is very difficult to stabilize it in a low-viscosity formulation such as a skin lotion.

Accordingly, it is necessary to develop a cosmetic composition containing a large amount of sphingolipids stably, or a formulation that does not gel or crystallize.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition containing a high content of sphingolipids without including an emulsifier and a stabilizer.

One embodiment of the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising sphingolipids, a water-soluble moisturizing agent, and an oily component, and not including an emulsifier and a stabilizer.

The sphingolipid may be included in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the total 　cosmetics 　 composition.

The sphingolipids are ceramide NP, ceramide NS, ceramide NG, ceramide EOP, ceramide AS, ceramide AP, glucosyl ceramide, glycosphingolipid, galactosylceramide, xylosylceramide, sphingomyelin, sphingomyelin , ganglioside, cerebroside, phytosphingosine, N-acetyl phytosphingosine, and stearyl phytosphingosine may include one or more selected from the group consisting of.

The water-soluble moisturizer is propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, propanediol, tripropylene glycol, sorbitol, polyglycerin, biosaccharide gum, pentanediol, sodium hyaluronate , sodium hyaluronate and at least one selected from the group consisting of collagen, and the oily component may include at least one selected from the group consisting of cholesterol, triglycerides, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, oils and waxes.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention uses phytosphingosine to form a coating film having a multi-layered lamellar structure on the outside of the ceramide particles, so that ceramide is precipitated not only in high-viscosity formulations but also in low-viscosity formulations even though the particles contain a high content of ceramide. It is possible to provide a cosmetic composition that is stable without being present and exhibits an excellent skin barrier recovery effect.

1 shows the degree of suspension after leaving skin formulations according to Preparation Example 1, Preparation Example 2, Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2 of the present invention for 4 weeks.
2 shows the degree of suspension after leaving the cosmetic compositions according to Examples 1 and 3 of the present invention and the skin formulations in Preparation Examples 1 and 2 for 4 weeks.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail so that those of ordinary skill in the art can easily implement them. However, the present invention may be embodied in several different forms and is not limited to the embodiments described herein.

Hereinafter, a cosmetic composition according to an embodiment will be described.

Specifically, one embodiment of the present invention provides a cosmetic composition that includes sphingolipids, a water-soluble moisturizing agent, and an oily component, but does not include an emulsifier and a stabilizer.

The above 　 sphingolipid is one of the essential components present in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin. However, the above 　 sphingolipid is a poorly soluble material, and when the 　 sphingolipid is included in the composition, there is a problem of stability of the formulation, such as gelation or crystallization due to low solubility. The cosmetic composition according to one embodiment has been devised to solve the above problems, and without including a separate emulsifier or a stabilizer such as hydrogenated lecithin for stability, it is simple at room temperature regardless of the viscosity of the formulation. Since gelation or crystallization does not occur due to mixing, etc., there is an effect that can ensure long-term formulation stability of a cosmetic composition containing sphingolipids.

In an embodiment of the present invention, a cosmetic composition is prepared by mixing sphingolipid, a water-soluble moisturizer and an oily component without using a separate emulsifier and stabilizer, and the properties of the cosmetic formulation are maintained even after 4 weeks have elapsed. Since precipitation did not occur, it was confirmed that the sphingolipid component was stably dissolved for a long period of time ( FIGS. 1 and 2 ).

In one embodiment, the sphingolipid may be included in an amount of 0.01 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the total cosmetic composition, for example, 0.1 to 15% by weight, for example, 1 to 15% by weight, for example, 3 to 15% by weight. % by weight, for example 5 to 15% by weight, for example 7 to 15% by weight, for example 7 to 13% by weight, for example 7 to 10% by weight. However, when the content of sphingolipid is less than 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, the excellent effect of sphingolipid is difficult to appear, and when it exceeds 15% by weight, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition increases to achieve uniform dispersion or There may be a problem that it is difficult to dissolve.

The sphingolipids include ceramide NP, ceramide NS, ceramide NG, ceramide EOP, ceramide AS, ceramide AP, glucosyl ceramide, glycosphingolipid, galactosylceramide, xylosylceramide, sphingomyelin, sphingomyelin , ganglioside, cerebroside, phytosphingosine, N-acetyl phytosphingosine, and stearyl phytosphingosine may include one or more selected from the group consisting of, for example, ceramide NP may be used.

The water-soluble moisturizer serves to enhance the emulsion stability of sphingolipid while imparting moisture to the cosmetic. Specifically, the water-soluble moisturizer is propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, propane. It may be at least one selected from the group consisting of diol, tripropylene glycol, sorbitol, polyglycerin, biosaccharide gum, pentanediol, sodium hyaluronate, sodium hyaluronate and collagen, for example, glycerin, propylene glycol Lycol, butylene glycol may be used, but is not limited thereto.

The oily component serves to allow the sphingolipid, a sparingly soluble lipid component, to be uniformly distributed in the cosmetic composition, and is selected from the group consisting of cholesterol, triglycerides, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, oils and waxes. It may include more than one species.

The cholesterol (cholesterol) is a component that has been commonly used in the art to stabilize sphingolipids in the composition, and the type thereof is not particularly limited.

The neutral lipid may include squalane and/or triglyceride having a fatty acid having 7 to 18 carbon atoms, and the fatty acid is one selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid and behenic acid having 16 to 22 carbon atoms. may be more than In addition, the fatty alcohol may be at least one selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, but is not limited thereto.

All of the oils and waxes commonly used as components of cosmetics in the art may be applied. For example, silicone-based oil, ester-based oil, 　triglyceride-based oil, hydrocarbon-based oil, or vegetable oil may be used as the oil, and one or more of these components may be combined as needed.

For example, as the silicone-based oil, a silicone-based fluid oil or a silicone-based crosspolymer dispersed in the oil may be used. For example, silicone-based fluid oils include cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cycloheptasiloxane, cyclomethicone, cyclophenylmethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclotrisiloxane, dimethicone, capryldimethicone, capryl Lyl trimethicone, caprylyl methicone, cetearyl methicone, hexadecyl methicone, hexyl methicone, lauryl methicone, myrisyl methicone, phenyl methicone, stearyl methicone, skearyl dimethicone, tri Fluoropropylmethicone, cetyldimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, methyltrimethicone or phenyltrimethicone may be used. The silicone-based oil components may be used alone or in combination of two or more types of oils. As the silicone-based crosspolymer, dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone PEG-10/15 crosspolymer or PEG-12 dimethicone/PPG-20 crosspolymer may be used, but this It is not limited.

Ester oils include ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbilinolate, ascorbyl stearate, diisostearyl malate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl laurate, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, butylene Glycol diisononanoate, butylene glycol laurate, butylene glycol stearate, butyl isostearate, cetearyl isononanoate, cetearyl nonanoate, cetylcaprylate, cetylethylhexano Eight, cetylisononanoate, ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, ethylhexylisononanoate, ethylhexylisostearate, ethylhexyllaurate, hexyllaurate, octyldodecylisostearate, isopropylisostearate Late, isostearyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate, isocetylethylhexanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol diethyl hexanoate, neopentyl glycol diisononano Eight, neopentyl glycol diisostearate, pentaerythrityl stearate, pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate, dipentaerythrityl hexaacid ester, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-2isostearate, polyglyceryl-2isostearate, polyglyceryl-2tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2tri Isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 diisostearate Late, polyglyceryl-6 sesquiisostearate or triethylhexanoin may be used.

As triglyceride oils, C8-C12 acid triglyceride, C12-C18 acid triglyceride, caprylic/capric triglyceride, caprylic/capric/lauric triglyceride, C10-C40 iso Alkyl acid triglyceride, C10-C18 triglyceride, glyceryl triacetylhydrostearate, soybean glyceride, tribehenin, tricaprine, triethylhexanoin, triheptanoin, triisostearin, tripalmitin or Tristearin may be used.

As the hydrocarbon-based oil, liquid paraffin (liquid paraffin, mineral oil), paraffin, vaseline, microcrystalline wax or squalene may be used.

Vegetable oils include avocado oil, wheat germ oil, rosehip oil, shea butter, almond oil, olive oil, macadamia oil, argan oil, meadowfoam oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, camellia oil, corn oil, safflower oil, soybean oil , rapeseed oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil or coconut oil can be used.

As the wax, all waxes such as hydrocarbon waxes, vegetable waxes, or silicone waxes generally used in cosmetics may be used. For example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice wax, bees wax, lanolin, ozokerite, ceresin wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, C30-C45 alkyldimethylsilylpolypropylsilsesquioxane, ethylene/propylene copolymer or polyethylene wax, but is not limited thereto.

In addition, it may further include an active ingredient showing efficacy as the oily ingredient. For example, the active ingredient may include a lipophilic active ingredient such as retinol and vitamin E.

The content of the water-soluble moisturizer and oily component is not particularly limited, and may be included in the cosmetic composition in the amount other than sphingolipid.

The cosmetic composition according to an embodiment may also contain additional ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as purified water, (simple without emulsifying power) thickener, moisturizer, color, fragrance, filler, preservative, preservative, sunscreen, vitamin, antioxidant, free - It may further contain any conventional cosmetic ingredients that can be selected from radical scavengers, sequestering agents, and mixtures thereof, but without emulsifiers and stabilizers.

The blending amount of the additional component in the cosmetic composition can be easily selected by those skilled in the art within the range that does not impair the purpose and effect of the present invention, for example, from about 0.001 to about 30% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition , specifically, it may be about 0.01 to about 25% by weight, but is not limited thereto.

The above 　 cosmetics 　 compositions are flexible lotion, astringent lotion, nourishing lotion, nourishing cream, massage cream, eye cream, eye essence, essence, cleansing cream, cleansing lotion, cleansing foam, cleansing water, pack, powder, body lotion, body cream, body It may have a formulation selected from the group consisting of essence, body cleaner, hair dye, shampoo, rinse, toothpaste, mouthwash, hair dressing, hair conditioner, lotion, ointment, gel, cream, patch, and spray, in the form of a product of the above 　cosmetics 　 composition. is, for example, makeup 　 cosmetics such as lipstick, lip gloss, lip cream, and eye shadow; hair and cosmetics such as hair sticks and pomades; Moisture gels, moisture creams, emulsions, serums, lotions, etc. are exemplified as basic cosmetics. In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may be prepared as an emulsion formulation for skin care such as lotion and cream, and may also be applied to makeup emulsion formulations such as makeup base and foundation.

In addition, the 　 cosmetic composition 　 composition may be of any one formulation among oil-in-water, water-in-oil type, multi-emulsion type, and non-aqueous dispersion. The term "oil-in-water (O/W)" is used interchangeably with "oil-in-water emulsion", and refers to a form in which oil is dispersed in water. . The term "water-in-oil (W/O)" is used interchangeably with "water-in-oil emulsion", and refers to a form in which water is dispersed in oil. . The term "non-aqueous dispersion" refers to a form dispersed in a solvent other than water. The multi-emulsion means a multi-phase emulsion generated when the emulsion is added to another continuous phase and stirred, for example, W/O/W (water-in-oil-in-water) or O/W It may be of type /O (oil-in-water-oil).

In the present invention, the method for preparing the cosmetic composition may use a conventional high-pressure emulsification method using a high-pressure emulsifier or agitating the oil phase component and the aqueous phase component using a homo mixer, an in-line mixer, etc., or both may be used in combination. have.

More specifically, in the high-pressure emulsification method, a component containing sphingolipid is first dispersed or emulsified in a homomixer and then passed through an interaction chamber to disperse in an aqueous component, or the entire component is first dispersed in a homomixer After mixing, it can be produced by passing through a high-pressure emulsifier. In this case, an interaction chamber having a pore size of 1 μm to 2 mm, for example, 75 μm, for example, 100 μm, for example, 150 μm, for example, 200 μm may be used. The high-pressure emulsification method may be carried out by passing one to several times at 500 to 1800 bar, and may be carried out by passing one to several times through a high-pressure emulsifier in which an interaction chamber having a different pore size is connected in a direct row.

In addition, the cosmetic composition can be prepared by cooling the solution containing the sphingolipid to a temperature of, for example, 20 to 40 °C.

Hereinafter, the configuration of the present invention and its effects will be described in more detail through Examples and Comparative Examples. However, these examples are for explaining the present invention in more detail, and the scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples.

Examples 1 to 4: Preparation of cosmetic compositions

A cosmetic composition was prepared according to the composition of Table 1 below. Specifically, the cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 to 4 were prepared in the following manner.

First, the components of the composition shown in Table 1 below are weighed, put in a beaker, heated to 70 ° C. to 90 ° C. and maintained, and then the primary emulsification is performed for 5 minutes while stirring at 3,000 rpm using a homo mixer. do.

Then, the mixture subjected to the first emulsification was put into a high-pressure emulsifier, passed three times at a pressure of 1,000 bar, and then cooled to 30° C. to prepare a cosmetic composition. The high-pressure emulsifier was performed by connecting two-stage series of chambers having pore sizes of 75 μm and 100 μm, respectively, of the interaction chamber.

Raw material name Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 glycerin Up to 100% by weight Up to 100% by weight Up to 100% by weight Up to 100% by weight propylene glycol 3.24 3.24 2.00 2.00 1,3-butylene glycol 25.00 25.00 - - squalane 0.75 - 8.00 - Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides - 0.75 - 8.00 Glycosphingolipid 1.00 1.00 12.00 12.00 Ceramide NP 0.01 0.01 1.00 1.00

(Unit: % by weight)

Preparation Example 1, Preparation Example 2, Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2: Preparation of a cosmetic composition

(1) As shown in Table 2 below, the cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 and 2 were weighed, and the ingredients of Table 2 were added thereto, and then using a disper at a speed of 400 rpm for 10 minutes. The cosmetic compositions of Preparation Examples 1 and 2 were prepared by stirring.

(2) As shown in Table 2 below, phase A containing components 3 to 7 in the following content, and phase B containing components 8 to 9 in the following content, and then phase A and phase B were heated to 85 °C, respectively. While maintaining the above temperature, the A phase is stirred at 3,000 rpm for 10 minutes, and the B phase heated in a separate container at the same temperature is slowly added thereto to proceed with the primary emulsification. Then, the mixture subjected to the primary emulsification was put into a high pressure emulsifier, passed three times at a pressure of 1,000 bar, and cooled to 30° C. to prepare cosmetic compositions of Comparative Examples 1 and 2. The high pressure emulsifier was carried out by connecting two-stage series of chambers having pore sizes of 75 μm and 100 μm, respectively, of the interaction chamber.

Raw material name Preparation Example 1 Preparation 2 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 One Example 1 50.00 - - - 2 Example 2 - 10.00 - - 3 glycerin - - 35.00 40.00 4 squalane - - 0.35 0.80 5 Ceramide NP - - 0.50 1.00 6 Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate - - 2.00 3.00 7 Hydrogenated Lecithin - - 1.00 1.00 8 1,3-butylene glycol - 25.00 11.15 10.00 9 Purified water Up to 100% by weight Up to 100% by weight Up to 100% by weight Up to 100% by weight

(Unit: % by weight)

Experimental Example 1: Transparency check

The formulation stability of the cosmetic compositions according to Examples 1 to 4, Preparation Examples 1 to 2, and Comparative Examples 1 to 2 was evaluated. For formulation stability evaluation, the cosmetic compositions according to Examples 1 to 4, Preparation Examples 1 to 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2 were visually evaluated by closing and sealing the lid in a transparent plastic container and storing at room temperature conditions, immediately after each preparation, The results after 1 week, 2 weeks, 3 weeks and 4 weeks have passed are shown in Table 3 below, and of the cosmetic compositions according to Examples 1, 3, Preparation 1, Preparation 2, Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2 Formulation stability after 4 weeks is shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 .

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Preparation Example 1 Preparation 2 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Immediately after manufacturing clear liquid clear liquid clear gel clear gel clear liquid clear liquid clear liquid clear liquid 1 week stability stability stability stability stability stability stability stability 2 weeks stability stability stability stability stability stability slightly settling slightly settling 3 weeks stability stability stability stability stability stability settling, slightly suspended precipitation, suspension 4 weeks stability stability stability stability stability stability precipitation, suspension precipitation, suspension

As shown in Table 3, Figures 1 and 2, in the case of Examples 1 to 4, Preparation Examples 1 and 2, it was confirmed that the formulation stability of the cosmetic composition was excellent because precipitation did not occur well at room temperature conditions. On the other hand, in the case of Comparative Examples 1 and 2, it was confirmed that the precipitation occurred from the 2nd week of manufacture, and the precipitation day occurred from the 3rd week.

From the above description, those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains will understand that the present invention may be embodied in other specific forms without changing the technical spirit or essential characteristics thereof. In this regard, it should be understood that the embodiments described above are illustrative in all respects and not restrictive. The scope of the present invention should be construed as being included in the scope of the present invention, rather than the above detailed description, all changes or modifications derived from the meaning and scope of the claims to be described later and their equivalents.

Claims (4)

Contains sphingolipids, water-soluble moisturizers and oily ingredients,
A cosmetic composition that does not contain an emulsifier and a stabilizer.
In claim 1,
The sphingolipid is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the total cosmetic composition, the cosmetic composition.
In claim 1,
The sphingolipids include ceramide NP, ceramide NS, ceramide NG, ceramide EOP, ceramide AS, ceramide AP, glucosyl ceramide, glycosphingolipid, galactosylceramide, xylosylceramide, sphingomyelin, sphingosine. , ganglioside, cerebroside, phytosphingosine, N-acetyl phytosphingosine, and stearyl phytosphingosine to contain one or more selected from the group consisting of, the cosmetic composition.
In claim 1,
The water-soluble moisturizer is propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, propanediol, tripropylene glycol, sorbitol, polyglycerin, biosaccharide gum, pentanediol, sodium hyaluronate , containing at least one selected from the group consisting of sodium hyaluronate and collagen,
The oily component is a cosmetic composition comprising at least one selected from the group consisting of cholesterol, triglycerides, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, oils and waxes.

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