KR20220032205A - Hair cosmetic composition for preventing loss of hair moisture and reinforcing hair moisture - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a technology for preventing loss of hair moisture and restoring hair moisture due to the use of a hot air balloon by applying the Maillard reaction, which is a binding reaction between a sugar and an amine compound by heat, to the hair. A hair cosmetic composition comprising the saccharide and the amine compound of the present invention can prevent loss of hair binding water during a heat styling process and reinforce hair moisture.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD [0001] Hair cosmetic composition for preventing loss of hair moisture and reinforcing hair moisture

The present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition for preventing hair loss and reinforcing moisture. More particularly, the present invention relates to a hair composition for restoring moisture homeostasis of damaged hair caused by thermal styling such as a dryer or iron.

Hair is constantly damaged by various external factors, such as repeated washing, drying, styling, or exposure to the surrounding environment such as UV rays. In particular, for consumers who use an iron or hair dryer every day, the damage is accelerated due to the continuous application of high-temperature heat to the hair.

The problem of water loss in heat-damaged hair is one of the most noticeable characteristics. Among the components that make up hair, moisture is about 10-15%, accounting for the second largest proportion after keratin protein, which accounts for 80-90% of hair. Moisture can again be divided into primary transpiration moisture and secondary transpiration moisture. , is moisture that is relatively weakly bound to the hair. On the other hand, bound water is moisture strongly connected to the hair by strong hydrogen bonds with biocomponents such as proteins and lipids inside the hair. Therefore, it means moisture that can be detached from the hair only by applying a high temperature of about 200°C. Repeated use of hot air balloons causes desorption of the bound water along with the unbound water, which deteriorates the smoothness and elasticity of the hair.

In order not to accumulate hair damage caused by such heat, it is necessary to use a hair product that prevents damage before using a hot air balloon or repairs damage after using a hot air balloon. Hair serums and essences, the most commonly used heat damage care products, only provide a conditioning feeling through a combination of silicone, hydrocarbon oil, and fatty esters to relieve roughness and roughness of the hair. In addition, there is a limit in preserving moisture inside the hair and protecting it from damage due to the low spreadability when using a curling iron after application to the hair. Therefore, the development of a product that can effectively protect hair moisture from strong heat is required.

The Maillard reaction is the most important non-enzymatic brown reaction mainly applied in food processing, and it is easy to recall that it is the cause of the browning phenomenon and delicious smell that occurs when steak is grilled. Carbonyl compounds such as sugars, which are the main ingredients of food, and nitrogen compounds with amino groups, such as proteins, are reacted by heat, and a melanoidin compound is produced as a final product through several intermediate reactions.

To explain the reaction mechanism in more detail, aldose or ketose of a reducing sugar and an amine group of an amino acid react to form an imine form of glycosylamine. At this time, Amadori rearrangement, in which ketones are produced by isomerization of adjacent hydroxyl groups, proceeds. Referring to Figure 1, it corresponds to the process of changing substance 1 to substance 2. After that, the deamination process proceeds according to the reaction conditions, and isomeric deoxyosone is produced as shown in materials 3 and 5 in Figure 2. The highly reactive deoxyosone undergoes cyclization, condensation, and decomposition. In addition, deoxyosone and their reaction products finally produce melanoidin compounds by indiscriminate reaction mechanism that proceeds further with amines or other nucleophiles (see figure below).

Figure: Basic Maillard Reaction Mechanism (Food Rev. Int., 13(1), pp.1-28 (1997))

Numerous references are referenced throughout this specification and citations thereof are indicated. The disclosures of the cited documents are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety to more clearly describe the content of the present invention and the level of the art to which the present invention pertains.

Republic of Korea Patent Publication No. 10-2131361

It is an object of the present invention to provide a hair composition containing saccharides and an amine compound as active ingredients and a technique for reversely using a heat treatment process for normalizing water homeostasis of heat-damaged hair.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a hair care product comprising the composition.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a hair composition that restores moisture homeostasis of hair damaged by heat styling (dryer, iron, etc.) .

Further objects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent from the following detailed description and claims.

One aspect of the present invention is to provide a hair cosmetic composition for preventing moisture loss and reinforcing moisture, comprising at least one saccharide and at least one amine compound having an amine group.

The composition of the present invention includes a sugar and an amine compound (eg, amino acid, etc.) capable of a Maillard reaction by heat as active ingredients of the hair composition.

의 가온 조건에서 급격하게 화학반응이 진행될 수 있으며, 이를 마이야르 반응(Maillard reaction)이라고 한다. 일련의 마이야르 반응이 진행되면서 여러 중간체 형태를 거쳐 최종적으로 멜라노이딘(melanoidin) 화합물이 합성된다. Sugars and amine compounds are basic biomaterials of about 140-165

A chemical reaction can proceed rapidly under the heating conditions of As a series of Maillard reactions proceed, a melanoidin compound is finally synthesized through various intermediate forms.

The effect of normalizing hair moisture loss due to heat damage was confirmed by using the sugar-amine compound chemical reaction as described above. As a result, the present invention was completed by confirming that when sugar and amino acids were heat-treated together on the hair, the loss of bound water was less compared to the case where nothing was heat-treated on the hair.

Hereinafter, the hair composition of the present invention will be described in more detail.

The hair composition of the present invention contains (A) at least one selected from saccharides and (B) at least one or more selected from amine compounds having an amine group.

The saccharides as component (A) may include monosaccharides, disaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides including a reducing end of an aldehyde group or a ketone group. Monosaccharides are the simplest form of sugar, and generally have a structural formula of C ₆ H ₁₂ O ₆ and contain 5 hydroxy groups (—OH). There is an aldose having an aldehyde group or a ketose having a ketone group. The types include galactose, glucose, fructose, and the like. Disaccharides have the structural formula of C ₁₂ H ₂₂ O ₁₁ in the form of two monosaccharides combined. These include sucrose, lactose, maltose, trehalose, and the like. Preferably, in order to obtain a sufficient effect of preventing loss of bound water, mannose may be used as the saccharide as the component (A).

The amine compound as component (B) is a compound in which one or more of the hydrogen atoms of ammonia is substituted with a hydrocarbon group, and may be one or more selected from the group consisting of amino acids, peptides and proteins. The amino acids include glycine, lysine, alanine, serine, arginine, tyrosine, phenylalanine, histidine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, methionine, proline, tryptophan, asparagine, glutamine, cysteine, threonine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, and the like.

The content of component (A) in the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may be 0.0001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 2.5% by weight.

The content of component (B) in the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may be 0.0001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 2.5% by weight.

In addition, the weight ratio of the saccharide and the amine compound contained in the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may be 1:1 ± 0.1 (saccharide: amine compound).

In the case of the existing hair cosmetic composition containing saccharides, the content of saccharides was included only 3% by weight or less because they did not know how to solve the stickiness problem caused by saccharides, but the weight ratio of saccharides and amine compounds was 1:1±0.1 (saccharides: amines). compound), even when the sugar content exceeds 3% by weight, stickiness does not occur and a sufficient moisture reinforcing effect can be exhibited.

When amine compounds such as sugars and amino acids are applied, the pH of the solution can be adjusted to about 4 to 9.5. Although it does not specifically limit, In order to raise the reactivity more, the high pH condition in which the reactivity of an amine group becomes high is preferable. Below and above the pH range, application to hair products is difficult, and the effect is not optimized.

In the composition of the present invention, sugars and amino acids that have penetrated into the hair form a melanoidin compound by thermal styling such as a hair dryer or iron, or the sugar directly reacts with the keratin protein amino acid residues constituting the hair itself. It may be formed in a bonded state. Accordingly, as it can act as an additional hydrogen bond donor and acceptor for moisture, it can exhibit a binding water preservation effect compared to untreated heat-damaged hair.

The hair cosmetic composition for preventing hair loss of moisture and reinforcing moisture of the present invention may contain one or more conditioning agents such as a silicone compound and an oily component for a conditioning effect.

The silicone compound is, for example, dimethicone, trimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, amodimethicone, amodiphenyltrimethicone, amodi-pentaphenyltrimethicone, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, decamecyclo It may be pentasiloxane, methyltrimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, methicone, cyclomethicone, alkylmethylsiloxane, dimethiconecopolyol, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, or a mixture of two or more thereof, but is not limited thereto. .

The oily component is liquid paraffin (mineral oil), isoparaffin, hydrogenated polydecene, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, jojoba oil, macadamia seed Oil, avocado oil, almond oil, sweet almond oil, bitter almond oil, olive oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, soybean oil, corn oil, canola oil, apricot kernel oil, peach kernel oil , palm kernel oil, palm oil, castor oil, sunflower seed oil, grape seed oil, cotton seed oil, coconut oil, camellia oil, peach seed oil, apricot seed oil, or a mixture of two or more thereof, but is not limited thereto.

In addition, as a conditioning component, a conditioning component such as panthenol, nicotinic acid amide, niacinamide, and caffeine may be included.

The content of the conditioning agent may be 0.01 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Even so, in the hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention, a preservative, a thickener, a viscosity modifier, a stabilizer, a pearling agent, a sequestering agent, a cationic surfactant, a pH adjuster, and a fragrance that can be used as a component of the hair cosmetic composition And it may further contain additives such as dyes, and these can be easily purchased and used commercially. Examples of the preservative include a mixture of methyl paraoxybenzoate, methylchloroisothiazolinone, and methylisothiazolinone (trade name: Kathon CG, manufactured by Rohm & Haas, USA). Examples of the thickener and viscosity modifier include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, sodium chloride, ammonium chloride, propylene glycol and hexylene glycol. Examples of the pH adjuster include citric acid, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, and the like, and examples of the dye include water-soluble tar dye, caramel, and the like.

The hair cosmetic composition for preventing hair loss of moisture and reinforcing moisture according to the present invention is a hair treatment agent, a hair clinic agent, a hair nutrition agent, a hair care agent, a hair cleaner, a shampoo, a conditioner, a hair tonic, a hair conditioner, a hair lotion, a hair gel , hair pack, hair cream, hair essence, hair powder, hairspray, hair oil, hair styling agent, hair dye, pre-dye treatment agent, post-dye treatment agent and perm agent. It may be formulated as a hair dye, a pre-dye treatment agent, a post-dye treatment agent and/or a perm agent.

In addition, the present invention comprises the steps of applying at least one saccharide and at least one amine compound having an amine group to the hair; And it provides a method of preventing moisture loss of hair and reinforcing hair moisture, comprising the step of heat-treating the hair at 50 to 300 °C.

All ingredients described in the present invention, preferably, relevant laws and regulations of Korea, China, the United States, Europe, Japan, etc. (eg, regulations on cosmetic safety standards (Korea), cosmetic safety technical standards (China)) Do not exceed the maximum use value stipulated in etc. That is, preferably, the hair cosmetic composition or hair product according to the present invention contains the ingredients according to the present invention within the content limit allowed by the relevant laws and regulations of each country.

Other terms and abbreviations used in this specification may be interpreted as meanings commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention belongs, unless otherwise defined.

The hair cosmetic composition comprising the saccharide and the amine compound of the present invention can prevent loss of hair binding water during thermal styling processes such as a dryer and an iron after applying it to hair, and can reinforce hair moisture.

1 is. It shows a graph of hair loss test results according to heating time and temperature conditions (Thermochimica Acta 494, pp.136-140, (2009)).

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail through examples. These examples are only for illustrating the present invention in more detail, and it will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art to which the present invention pertains that the scope of the present invention is not limited by these examples.

Materials and reagents used in the experiments of the present invention were purchased from general cosmetic raw material manufacturers and commercial suppliers.

Example

I. Amino Acid-Sugar Treatment heat damage simulation Water recovery evaluation (n=5)

<Example 1-4 and Comparative Example 1-2>

Experimental hair (human hair) tress (BEAULAX, normal hair No. BS-A) is prepared by fixing the hair root part to 4 g, 30 cm size. Sulfate (SLES) diluted solution was applied with 10% (0.4 g) of the weight of the tress, washed in foam, and dried with a dryer.

After the tress pre-treatment (washing) process as described above, apply a bleaching agent at 3 times the hair weight to the normal hair tress, seal it so that air does not pass, and leave it at room temperature for 20 minutes, then run it under running water (350mL/10 seconds, 37- After rinsing with 15% SLES solution at 40°C), it was dried with a dryer and stored for at least one day under constant temperature and humidity conditions (23°C, 50% RH). The bleached hair that had only been bleached corresponds to Comparative Example 1.

Heat damage was applied to the bleached hair tresses that had been pre-treated (washed) and bleached. The thermal damage process was as follows. After applying twice the weight of water to the bleached hair, sealing it and leaving it at room temperature for 5 minutes, squeeze the water out by hand, remove the water with a paper towel, and dry it with a dryer for 2 minutes. The process of applying water follows the wet effect during raw material processing in the embodiment. After drying, from the hair root of the tress, press with a flat iron (230°C) to straighten the hair at a speed of 1 cm/sec in the direction of the hair tip, and this was repeated a total of 5 times. After rinsing with 15% SLES solution, dry with a paper towel and dry with a dryer. After that, the heat damage process was repeated one more time, and in the final washing process with 15% SLES solution, a process of immersing the hair in water for 5 minutes was added to realize sufficient hydration of the hair. Finally, after wiping the water and drying the hair with a dryer, the hair was stored under constant temperature and humidity conditions (23° C., 50% RH) for more than one day. The heat-damaged hair corresponds to Comparative Example 2.

In order to confirm the difference in the improvement rate of heat-damaged hair binding number according to the simultaneous treatment of sugar and amino acid, hair treatment was performed under the same conditions as follows.

Glycine was selected as a representative amino acid and mannose as a representative monosaccharide. A 5% solution of glycine alone and a 5% solution of mannose alone, and a 5% solution of glycine and mannose in a 1:1 mass ratio were prepared. Before thermal damage to the hair tress after pre-treatment (washing) and discoloration was carried out, the solutions were applied in the same manner as above, left to stand, and dried, and thermal damage was performed with a flat iron. Glycine solution-treated hair corresponds to Example 1, mannose solution-treated hair corresponds to Example 2, and glycine-mannose solution-treated hair corresponds to Example 3.

In addition, in order to confirm the rate of improvement of the moisture content of heat-damaged hair according to the Maillard reaction application of other saccharides, lactose was selected as a representative disaccharide instead of mannose, a monosaccharide, and a 5% solution was prepared by mixing glycine and lactose in a 1:1 mass ratio. . Before thermal damage to the hair tress after pre-treatment (washing) and discoloration was carried out, the solution was applied in the same manner as above, left to stand, and dried, and heat damage was performed with a flat iron. The following glycine-lactose solution-treated hair corresponds to Example 4.

<Experimental Example 1: Measurement of moisture content of heat-damaged hair>

The effect of preventing heat damage by improving water loss according to hair treatment of the sugar and amino acid mixture according to the present invention was measured using a dry moisture meter (Mettler Toledo HX204).

After the prepared tresses (Examples 1, 2, 3, 4 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2) were cut into about 3-5 mm, they were sufficiently stored at constant temperature and humidity (23° C., 50% RH). The unbound water was primarily evaporated while maintaining at 65° C. for 40 minutes, and then immediately after raising the temperature to 180° C., it was maintained for 30 minutes to evaporate the bound water. From the initial hair sample amount (0.4000 - 0.410 g), the amount of moisture (weight loss %) that is primarily evaporated in 5 seconds is measured, and then the amount of moisture (weight loss %) that is secondarily evaporated is measured to determine the total moisture content and heating of the hair. Moisture properties were tested according to (FIG. 1).

Combined Quantity* (%) Combined water improvement rate ** ( % ) Average Standard Deviation Comparative Example 1 4.52 0.10 - Comparative Example 2 4.10 0.16 - Example 1 4.12 0.17 4.76 Example 2 4.19 0.19 21.12 Example 3 4.37 0.21 64.29 Example 4 4.34 0.17 57.14

In [Table 1], the amount of binding water in Examples 1, 2, 3, and 4 and the rate of improvement of the binding water recovered back to the level of Comparative Example 1 compared to Comparative Example 2 of the heat-damaged hair were calculated and expressed as a percentage.

Comparing the case of Comparative Example 1, in which only discoloration was performed, and Comparative Example 2, in which the heat-damaged hair process was added, it was found that the bound amount decreased from an average of 4.52% to 4.10%. This means that the loss of bound water actually occurs through the hair heat damage process.

In the case of Example 1, in which only amino acids were treated, compared to Comparative Example 2, it was confirmed that there was almost no effect of improving the number of bonds compared to heat-damaged hair. In the case of Example 2, in which only saccharides were treated, an improvement rate of binding number of about 21.12% was exhibited compared to Comparative Example 2. This is thought to be due to the partial Maillard reaction between amino acids and sugars in the hair itself. In the case of Example 3, in which amino acids and sugars were treated together, a significant improvement in the number of bindings of 64.29% was confirmed. When the tress of Example 3 was combed by hand, it was confirmed that it was remarkably smooth compared to Comparative Example 2.

On the other hand, in Example 4, a 5% solution in which lactose, a disaccharide, was used instead of mannose in the glycine-mannose combination of Example 3 was applied to the hair before the heat damage process, and the binding water improvement rate was 4.34%. It can be seen that the excellent bonding water improvement rate at a level not significantly different from that of Example 3.

II. amino acid-sugar treatment heat damage simulation Evaluation of improvement in force taken during combing (n=5)

<Example 5 and Comparative Examples 3 and 4>

Experimental hair (human hair) tress (BEAULAX, normal hair No. BS-A) is prepared by fixing the hair root part to a size of 2.6 g, 20 cm, and after applying 1.2 times the weight of the tress to wet it sufficiently, 15% sodium laureth Sulfate (SLES) diluted solution was applied with 10% of the weight of the tress, washed in foam, and dried with a dryer.

After the tress pre-treatment (washing) process as described above, apply a bleaching agent at 3 times the hair weight to the normal hair tress, seal it so that air does not pass, and leave it at room temperature for 20 minutes, then run it under running water (350mL/10 seconds, 37- After rinsing with 15% SLES solution at 40°C), it was dried with a dryer without combing and stored under constant temperature and humidity conditions (23°C, 50% RH) for more than one day. The bleached hair that had only been bleached corresponds to Comparative Example 3.

Apply heat damage to the bleached hair tresses that have completed the pre-treatment (washing) and bleaching process. The thermal damage process is as follows. After applying twice the weight of water to the bleached hair, sealing it and leaving it at room temperature for 5 minutes, squeeze the water out by hand, remove the water with a paper towel, and dry it with a dryer for 2 minutes. After drying, from the hair root of the tress, press with a flat iron (230° C.) to straighten the hair at a speed of 1 cm/sec in the direction of the hair tip, and this was repeated a total of 5 times. After rinsing with 15% SLES solution, dry it with a paper towel and dry it with a dryer. After that, the heat damage process was repeated one more time, and the process of immersing in water for 5 minutes was added during the last washing process with 15% SLES solution. Finally, after wiping off the water and drying with a dryer while omitting combing, it was stored under constant temperature and humidity conditions (23° C., 50% RH) for more than one day. The heat-damaged hair corresponds to Comparative Example 4.

In the process of making Comparative Example 4 as described above, the tress of Example 5 was prepared under the condition of applying a 5% glycine-mannose solution instead of applying water.

<Experimental Example 2: Measurement of the value of force applied when combing heat-damaged hair>

Among the heat damage prevention effects of the hair treatment of the sugar and amino acid mixture according to the present invention, the force taken during combing was measured using a Combing Tester (MTT160, Dia-stron, UK).

After fixing the prepared tresses (Example 5 and Comparative Examples 3 and 4) to the device vertically, the comb attached to the device is moved at a constant speed. The sensor measures the change in force generated during the combing process, and it is graphed as the moving distance of the comb and the force applied to the comb.

Maximum applied force (gmf) Total amount of force applied (J) Comparative Example 3 46.5 0.0212 Comparative Example 4 127 0.0405 Example 5 108.6 0.0378 Decrease rate (%) 22.86 13.99

In [Table 2], it can be seen that in Comparative Example 4, which is heat-damaged hair, both the maximum force during combing and the amount of force applied during the entire combing process were significantly increased compared to Comparative Example 3. In contrast, in Example 5, the maximum applied force was reduced by about 22.86%, and the total applied force was decreased by 13.99%, confirming that there was an effect of improving thermal damage.

Claims (10)

A hair cosmetic composition for preventing moisture loss and reinforcing moisture, comprising at least one saccharide and at least one amine compound having an amine group. The hair cosmetic composition for preventing moisture loss and reinforcing moisture according to claim 1, wherein the hair moisture is the binding water of the hair. The hair cosmetic composition for preventing hair loss and reinforcing moisture according to claim 1, wherein the hair is heat-damaged hair. The hair for preventing moisture loss and reinforcing hair according to claim 1, wherein the saccharide is at least one selected from the group consisting of monosaccharides, disaccharides, oligosaccharides and polysaccharides containing a reducing end of an aldehyde group or a ketone group. cosmetic composition. According to claim 1, wherein the amine compound is a compound in which one or more of the hydrogen atoms of ammonia are substituted with a hydrocarbon group, characterized in that at least one selected from the group consisting of amino acids, peptides and proteins, hair loss prevention and moisture reinforcement For hair cosmetic composition. The hair cosmetic composition for preventing hair loss and reinforcing moisture according to claim 1, wherein the saccharide is included in an amount of 0.0001 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. [Claim 2] The hair cosmetic composition for preventing moisture loss and reinforcing moisture in the hair according to claim 1, wherein the amine compound is included in an amount of 0.0001 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. The hair cosmetic composition for preventing hair loss and reinforcing moisture according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the saccharide and the amine compound contained in the composition is 1:1±0.1 (saccharide: amine compound). A hair product comprising the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8. applying to the hair at least one saccharide and at least one amine compound having an amine group; and
Including the step of heat-treating the hair at 50 to 300 °C,
How to prevent loss of moisture in the hair and replenish moisture in the hair.

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