KR20200076710A - Composition in the form of an emulsion comprising a silicone resin and an amino silicone oil, and method of using the same - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention is as follows:
* At least 10% by weight of water relative to the weight of the composition;
* At least 10% by weight of at least one silicone resin relative to the weight of the composition;
* At least one amino silicone oil;
* Optionally at least one non-volatile silicone oil;
* At least one non-volatile silicone oil, optionally free of (poly)glycerol and (poly)oxyalkylene groups, wherein the oxyalkylene group is C ₂ -C ₃ , non-volatile silicone oil
A cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising:
* When the composition does not contain any non-volatile silicone oil(s), the content of amino silicone oil relates to a cosmetic composition that is at least 4% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
The invention also relates to a method for making and/or care for keratin substances to which the composition is applied, for example skin, lips, preferably lips.

Description

Composition in the form of an emulsion comprising a silicone resin and an amino silicone oil, and method of using the same

The present invention provides makeup and/or care, especially for lips and skin, provided in the form of an emulsion, comprising at least 10% by weight of water, at least 10% by weight of silicone resin, and at least 4% by weight of at least one amino silicone oil. For the composition, and also a method of using the composition to treat and/or make up keratin materials, for example skin or lips, especially lips.

Stable, satisfactory properties in terms of application (slidability upon application, ease of spreading and fineness of deposits), as well as the makeup effect of the deposits on the lips, e.g. and absence of movement of deposits (preferably sticky) The goal is to develop a composition for makeup and/or care for lips, particularly a fluid composition such as liquid lipstick, which is also given satisfactory properties in terms of this).

In general, formulations corresponding to liquid delivery forms are typically anhydrous and oily (which in particular provides a gloss), optionally a wax for structuring the composition, particularly fillers for thickening the composition, film-forming polymers, and dyes It includes.

These liquid lipsticks should be fluid enough to be easily applied but not too fluid so as not to degrade the stability (pigmentation of the composition) and ease of application (flow).

It is noted that in conventional liquid lipstick compositions, the deposits are relatively thick, thereby giving some tackiness, in particular induced by the use of such oils and polymers present. This property can be reflected, in particular, by the adhesion of the makeup lips to each other, which creates an unpleasant sensation in terms of comfort for the user.

Liquid lipstick compositions have been on the market for some time in the form of either direct or reverse aqueous emulsions. When liquid lipstick compositions are applied, they provide a fresh effect, are almost non-sticky or not sticky at all, are comfortable, and once applied, remain intact. In addition, it is possible to obtain a sufficiently uniform glossy deposit having satisfactory persistence and transfer resistance.

Nevertheless, it is desired to further improve the gloss and the persistence of luster, and also the color persistence of these compositions, without any loss of comfort or adversely affecting transfer resistance. It is also advantageous to have a composition available that can be applied to both lips and skin, especially to the face, more precisely to the cheek.

What is needed is a liquid composition, in particular a creamy composition, which can produce deposits that do not have an excessively adverse effect on the transfer resistance properties and without any loss of comfort or increased tackiness, and also improved persistence of gloss. There is also a need for a composition that allows the deposits on the lips or skin, especially the cheeks, to be very thin, yet to obtain a visible color with improved color persistence.

These and other objects are achieved by the present invention, one subject being:

* At least 10% by weight of water relative to the weight of the composition;

* At least 10% by weight of at least one silicone resin relative to the weight of the composition;

* At least one amino silicone oil;

* Optionally at least one non-volatile silicone oil

* At least one nonvolatile silicone oil, optionally free of (poly)glycerol and (poly)oxyalkylene groups, wherein the oxyalkylene group is C ₂ -C ₃ , nonvolatile silicone oil

Cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising;

* If the composition does not contain any of the above non-volatile silicone oil(s), the content of amino silicone oil is a cosmetic composition that is at least 4% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

The film deposited on the lips has the advantage of being thin and provides a fresh effect when applied without significant movement to wrinkles and fine lines.

The composition is stable, easy to apply, and comfortable to apply because the resulting deposits are almost non-sticky or non-sticky and retained once in place. In addition, the deposit does not give the lips a dry impression, does not crack, and maintains the movement of the lips.

In addition, the deposits obtained by application of the composition according to the invention have improved gloss in connection with the persistence of good gloss over time. In addition, transcription resistance remains satisfactory.

Finally, the color persistence of the deposits obtained by application of the composition is improved.

In the rest of the description, it should be noted that, unless indicated otherwise, the indicated limits for ranges are included within the range.

The expressions "at least one" and "some" are used without distinction.

Percentages are by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

In addition, the sum of the component amounts of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention can advantageously be in very variable form, from fluid (relatively very low viscosity) compositions to very viscous compositions.

Therefore, the composition according to the present invention may have a viscosity in the range of 0.01 to 15 Pa.s, more specifically 0.05 to 12 Pa.s at 25°C.

Viscosity measurement protocol:

Viscosity measurements are generally carried out at 25°C using a Rheomat RM 100 viscometer with 2, 3 or 4 spindles depending on the viscosity, the measurement at a shear rate of 200 revolutions per minute (rpm). , After 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition.

Silicone resin

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone resin.

More generally, the term "resin" refers to compounds having a three-dimensional structure. Thus, for example, polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin for the purposes of the present invention.

The name of the silicone resin (also known as siloxane resin) is known by the name "MDTQ", the resin is described based on the various siloxane monomer units it contains, and each letter of "MDTQ" indicates the type of unit.

The letter M represents a monofunctional unit of the formula R1R2R3SiO _1/2 , in the polymer comprising this unit the silicon atom is attached to only one oxygen atom.

The letter D means the bifunctional unit R1R2SiO _2/2 , where the silicon atom is attached to two oxygen atoms.

The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of the formula R1SiO _3/2 .

Such resins are described, for example, in Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), pp. 265-270 and US 2 676 182, US 3 627 851, US 3 772 247, US 5 248 739 or alternatively US 5 082 706, US 5 319 040, US 5 302 685 and US 4 935 484 .

In the previously defined M, D and T units, Ri, i.e., R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ , which may be the same or different, is a hydrocarbon radical (especially alkyl) containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular a phenyl group, A phenylalkyl group or alternatively a hydroxyl group.

Finally, the letter Q refers to the _{tetrafunctional} unit SiO _4/2 , where the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, and the oxygen atoms themselves are attached to the rest of the polymer.

Various silicone resins with different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers being the type of monomer (or unit), the nature and number of radical(s) Ri, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching of the side chain And size.

As the silicone resin that can be used in the composition according to the present invention, for example, an MQ type, T type or MQT type silicone resin can be used.

MQ resin:

As an example of the MQ type silicone resin, alkyl _{siloxysilicates of the} formula [(R1) ₃ SiO _1/2 ] _x (SiO _4/2 ) _y (unit MQ) may be mentioned, wherein x and y are It is an integer in the range of 50 to 80, and the group R1 represents a radical as defined above, and is preferably an alkyl or hydroxyl group containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group.

As examples of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type MQ type solid silicone resin, mention may be made of those sold under the reference SR1000 from Momentive Performance Materials, the reference MQ 1600 from Dow Corning or the Belsil TMS 803 from Wacker.

As the silicone resin comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, phenylalkyl siloxysilicate resins such as phenylpropyldimethyl siloxysilicate (Silshine 151 sold by Momentive Performance Materials) can also be mentioned. The manufacture of such resins is described in particular in patent US 5 817 302.

T resin:

Examples of T type silicone resins that may be mentioned include polysilsesquioxanes of the formula (RSiO _3/2 ) _x (unit T), wherein _{x is} greater than 100 and groups R are 1-10 It is an alkyl group containing 4 carbon atoms, and the polysilsesquioxane also possibly includes a Si-OH end group.

In addition, mention may be made of polymethylsilsesquioxane, which is a polysilsesquioxane in which none of the methyl radicals are substituted with other groups. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described, for example, in US 5 246 694.

Polymethylsilsesquioxane resins which can be preferably used are those in which R represents a methyl group, for example the following:

-Those sold by Wacker as reference resin MK, such as Belsil PMS MK: CH ₃ SiO _3/2 repeat units, which may also contain up to 1% by weight of (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO _2/2 units (unit D) Polymer having an average molecular weight of about 10000 g/mol, including (unit T), or

_-Consisting of unit T of the formula CH ₃ SiO _3/2 and containing a Si-OH (silanol) end group, sold by Shin-Etsu as reference KR-220L, 98% of unit T and 2% of Sold as reference KR-242A containing dimethyl unit D and containing Si-OH end groups, or alternatively containing 88% unit T and 12% dimethyl unit D and containing Si-OH end groups , Those sold as reference KR-251.

-Those sold as Dow Corning 670 Fluid, Dow Corning 680 Fluid, as a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and isododecane, respectively, by Dow Corning.

MQT resin:

Resins comprising especially known MQT units are those mentioned in US 5 110 890.

A preferred form of resin of the MQT type is MQT-propyl (also known as MQTpr) resin. Such resins that can be used in the composition according to the invention are resins described and prepared in patent application WO 2005/075 542, in particular the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.

MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the following units:

-(i) (R1 ₃ SiO _1/2 ) _a

-(ii) (R2 ₂ SiO _2/2 ) _b

-(iii) (R3SiO _3/2 ) _c and

-(iv) (SiO _4/2 ) _d

At this time,

-R1, R2 and R3 are independently hydrocarbon-based radicals containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms (especially alkyl), phenyl groups, phenylalkyl groups or hydroxyl groups, preferably containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms Represents an alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

-a, b, c and d are mole fractions,

-a is 0.05 to 0.5,

-b is 0 to 0.3,

-c is greater than 0,

-d is 0.05 to 0.6,

-a + b + c + d = 1,

-However, more than 40 mol% of the group R3 of the siloxane resin is a propyl group.

Preferably, the siloxane resin comprises the following units:

(i) (R1 ₃ SiO _1/2 ) _a

(iii) (R3SiO _3/2 ) _c and

(iv) (SiO _4/2 ) _d

At this time,

-R ₁ and R ₃ independently represent an alkyl group containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms, R ₁ is preferably a methyl group, R ₃ is preferably a propyl group,

-a is 0.05 to 0.5, preferably 0.15 to 0.4,

-c is greater than 0, preferably from 0.15 to 0.4,

-d is 0.05 to 0.6, preferably 0.2 to 0.6, or alternatively 0.2 to 0.55,

-a + b + c + d = 1, where a, b, c and d are mole fractions,

-However, more than 40 mol% of the group R ₃ of the siloxane resin is a propyl group.

The siloxane resins that can be used according to the invention can be obtained through a method comprising the following reaction:

A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol% of units (R1 ₃ SiO _1/2 ) _a and (SiO _4/2 ) _d ,

-R1 represents an alkyl group, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms,

-a and d are greater than 0,

-Ratio a/d is 0.5 to 1.5 resin, and

B) a T-propyl resin comprising at least 80 mol% of units (R3SiO _3/2 ) _c ,

-R3 represents an alkyl group, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms,

-c is greater than 0,

-Provided that at least 40 mol% of the group R3 is a propyl group.

-Here, the mass ratio A/B is 95/5 to 15/85, and preferably the mass ratio A/B is 30/70.

Advantageously, the mass ratio A/B is 95/5 to 15/85. Preferably, the ratio A/B is 70/30 or less. This preferred ratio has been proven to provide comfortable deposits.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one resin of the MQ type as described above as a silicone resin.

In particular, the silicone resin is a siloxysilicate resin, preferably trimethylsiloxysilicate resin.

Advantageously, the silicone resin is present in an amount of at least 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, the content of the silicone resin is 10% to 45% by weight, preferably 12% to 40% by weight, particularly 15% to 35% by weight, or even 18% to 35% by weight, based on the weight of the composition. % By weight.

The silicone resin may be used in powder form, in a solvent dissolved form, in a liquid transported form, or in water. It should be noted that in the latter case, the silicone resin is preferably emulsified after being dissolved in a transported form, advantageously in a solvent.

As regards the silicone resin carried in the solvent, the solvent is usually selected from non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils and volatile or nonvolatile, preferably volatile, silicone oils.

The term “volatile oil” means an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature (25° C.), in particular in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40000 Pa, in particular 2.66 Pa to 13000 Pa, preferably 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa. As an example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the vapor pressure using a static method or using an isothermal thermogravimetric exudation method (standard OCDE 104, eg Regulation (EC) No. 761/2009 of July 23, 2009). ).

Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which may particularly be mentioned are alkanes, preferably branched alkanes of 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular for example C ₈ -C ₁₆ isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane , Isodecane and isohexadecane.

Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear or cyclic silicone oils, for example linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

Examples of such oils that may be mentioned are octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, methyl trimethicone, polydimethyl Siloxanes, such as those sold by Dow Corning as reference DC 200 or from Shin-Etsu as reference KF 96 A (alone or mixtures).

Koboguard® MQ65TMF (a mixture of trimethylsiloxysilicate and methyl trimethicone) sold in Kobo, in particular in silicone resins, in the form carried in a solvent, especially of the MQ type; KF-7312J (mixture in cyclopentasiloxane), KF-7312K, KF-7312L (mixture in dimethicone), KF-7312T (mixture in trimethicone), X-21-5249 (cyclo, sold by Shin-Etsu) Mixture in pentasiloxane), X-21-5249L (mixture in dimethicone), X-21-5250, X-21-5250L (mixture in cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone respectively), X-21-5595, X-21 -5616 (mixture in isododecane), KF-9021, KF-9021L (mixture in cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone, respectively); Silsoft 74, Silshine 151 from Momentive Performance Materials (mixture in isododecane); Xiameter RSN-0749 resin from Dow Corning, Dow Corning 749 Fluid (mixture in cyclopentasiloxane), Dow Corning 593 Fluid (mixture in dimethicone) can be mentioned.

For silicone resins in the form of emulsions in water, for example, KM-9717 (emulsion in the presence of anionic surfactants, including low viscosity silicones), sold by Shin-Etsu, X-52-8005 (low viscosity silicones) (Emulsions in the presence of nonionic surfactants).

Amino silicone oil

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone oil. It should be noted that the oil is advantageously non-volatile.

The term “ oil ” denotes a compound that is liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 ⁵ Pa).

The term “ non-volatile oil ” means an oil having a vapor pressure at 25° C. of non- zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more specifically less than 0.13 Pa.

The term " silicone oil " means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular containing a Si-O group.

The term "amino silicone" refers to any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or quaternary ammonium group. Preferably, the amino silicone is free of (poly)glycerol and (poly)oxyalkylene groups, and the oxyalkylene unit is C ₂ -C ₃ .

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile amino silicone oil(s) are selected from compounds having the formula:

[Formula I]

R _a R'3 _-a -Si-(OSiR ₂ ) _n -(OSiR _b R'2 _-b ) _m -O-Si-R _a R'3 _-a

Where,

R, which may be the same or different, represents a hydrogen atom, hydroxyl, phenyl or C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl group, eg methyl, or C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy group, eg methoxy;

R', which may be the same or different, is a divalent group -C _q H _2q -is linear or branched; q represents an integer ranging from 2 to 8, and L represents a monovalent radical of the formula -C _q H _2q L, which is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the following groups:

-NR"-QN(R") ₂

-N(R") ₂

_{^{- N + (R ") 3}} A -

_{^{- 3 A NR "-QN + (}} R") -,

Where R" represents a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl radical, or a saturated monovalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical, Q is a linear of the formula -C _r H _2r- Or a branched divalent group, r is an integer in the range of 2 to 6, preferably 2 to 4; A ^- is an cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodo. Id;

m and n have a total (n + m) range in particular from 1 to 2000, more specifically from 1 to 1000, and may preferably be 50; n may represent a number from 0 to 1999, especially 49 to 149, and m is an integer that can represent a number from 1 to 2000, particularly 1 to 10.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of amino silicones is preferably in the range from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol, even more particularly in the range from 3500 to 200000 g/mol.

The weight-average molecular mass of these amino silicones is measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at room temperature as polystyrene equivalents. The column used is a μ styragel column. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml/min. 200 μl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF is injected. Detection is performed by a refractometer and an ultraviolet meter.

Preferably, the amino silicone oil(s) is selected from compounds of formula I'corresponding to formula I as

R, which may be the same or different, represents a hydroxyl or methyl radical;

R', which may be the same or different, represents a monovalent radical of the formula -C _q H _2q L, wherein

_-Divalent -C _q H _2q -is linear or branched;

-q represents an integer ranging from 2 to 8;

-L is a group -NH-Q-NH ₂ ; ^{_{-NH-QN + H 3 A -}} , preferably optionally quaternized amino group selected from -NH-Q-NH _2, and;

_-Where Q represents a linear or branched divalent group of the formula -C _r H _2r -, r is an integer ranging from 2 to 4, preferably 2; A ^- represents a halide ion, for example chloride;

-a is 0 and b is 1;

-m and n have a total (n + m) range in particular from 1 to 2000, more specifically from 1 to 1000, preferably 50; n may represent a number from 0 to 1999, especially 49 to 149, and m is an integer that can represent a number from 1 to 2000, particularly 1 to 10.

According to a first specific embodiment, the amino silicone(s) is selected from compounds of formula 1

[Formula 1]

In the formula, m and n have a total (n + m) in the range of 1 to 2000, especially 50 to 150, n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, especially 49 to 149, m is 1 to 2000, in particular 1 It is a number that can represent the number of to 10.

According to a second embodiment, the amino silicone(s) is selected from compounds of formula 2:

[Formula 2]

Where,

-m and n have a total (n + m) in the range of 1 to 1000, especially 50 to 250, more specifically 100 to 200; n can represent a number in the range 0 to 999, in particular 49 to 249, more specifically 125 to 175, m can represent a number in the range 1 to 1000, especially 1 to 10, more specifically 1 to 5 Is a number;

-R and R', which may be the same or different, represent hydroxyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radicals, preferably methoxy, and at least one of the radicals R or R'represents an alkoxy radical.

The hydroxyl/alkoxy molar ratio is preferably in the range of 0.2:1 to 0.4:1, preferably 0.25:1 to 0.35:1, more specifically equal to 0.3:1.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones is preferably in the range of 2000 to 1000000 g/mol, more specifically in the range of 3500 to 200000 g/mol.

Commercial products comprising silicones of formula (2) may include one or more other amino silicones having a structure different from formula (2) in the composition.

Products containing amino silicone of structure (2) are supplied by Wacker under the trade name Belsil® ADM 652.

According to a third embodiment, the amino silicone(s) is selected from compounds of formula 3:

[Formula 3]

Where,

-m and n have a total (m + n) in the range of 1 to 1000, in particular 50 to 350, more specifically 150 to 250; m is 0 to 999; In particular, it may represent a number from 49 to 349, more specifically from 159 to 239, and n is a number that can represent a number from 1 to 1000, especially 1 to 10, more specifically 1 to 5;

-Different Rs represent hydroxyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radicals, preferably methoxy, and at least one of the radicals represents an alkoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio is generally in the range of 1:0.8 to 1:1.1, preferably in the range of 1:0.9 to 1:1, more specifically 1:0.95.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably in the range of 2000 to 200000 g/mol, more particularly 5000 to 100000 g/mol, more specifically 10000 to 50000 g/mol.

Commercial products comprising silicones of formula (3) may include one or more other amino silicones having a structure different from formula (3) in the composition.

Products containing amino silicones of Formula 3 are supplied by Wacker under the trade name Fluid WR 1300®.

According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicone(s) is selected from compounds of formula (4):

[Formula 4]

Where,

-m and n have a total (n + m) in the range of 1 to 2000, in particular in the range of 50 to 150, n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, especially 49 to 149, m is 1 to 2000, especially 1 to A number that can represent a number of 10;

-A preferably represents a linear, divalent -C _q H _2q -, where q represents an integer ranging from 4 to 8, preferably equal to 4.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones is preferably in the range from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol, even more particularly in the range from 3500 to 200000 g/mol.

The amino silicone(s) are selected from compounds of formula II:

[Formula II]

Where,

-m and n have a total (n + m) in the range of 1 to 2000, especially 50 to 150, n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, especially 49 to 149, m is 1 to 2000, especially 1 to 10 A number that can represent a number of;

-A represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones is preferably in the range from 500 to 1000000 g/mol, more particularly in the range from 1000 to 200000 g/mol.

The amino silicone(s) can be selected from compounds of Formula III:

[Formula III]

In the formula, x'and y'are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is approximately 5000 to 500000 g/mol.

The amino silicone oils alone, in solubilized or even emulsified form, can be provided in the composition according to the invention.

When these amino silicones are used in the form of emulsions, preferably oil-in-water emulsions, the emulsions may contain one or more ionic or nonionic surfactants.

The number-average size of the silicon particles in the emulsion can range from 3 to 500 nm.

Among the amino silicone oils suitable for use, products sold under the trade names Belsil® ADM 1370, Belsil® ADM 652 by Wacker; Or even products sold by Dow Corning under the trade names DC 8566 amino fluid, Xiameter OFX-8220 fluid (Q2-8220) and Q2 7224. Mixtures sold under the trade name KF-8020 by Shin-Etsu are also suitable for use.

Among the mixtures, especially emulsions comprising at least one amino silicone oil, the Dow Corning brand names Xiameter MEM-0939 emulsion, Xiameter MEM-8194, Xiameter MEM-8299 cationic emulsion, Dow Corning 5-7113 Silicone Quat microemulsion, DC 8500, products sold as Dow Corning® CE-8170 AF microemulsions and Dow Corning CE-8401 emulsions, as well as microemulsions sold by Wacker Belsil® ADM Log1, Belsil® 6102E, Belsil® ADM 6300E, Finish CT 96 E® Or SLM 28020®; Emulsion Silsoft 253 sold by Momentive Performance Materials may be mentioned.

Mixtures of amino silicones and polydisiloxanes can also be used, for example Dow Corning CE-1689 smoothing emulsion from Dow Corning.

In addition, co-emulsions of amino silicone oils and non-volatile silicone oils can be used, as described in Wacker's international patent application WO 2017/06962.

If the composition according to the present invention does not contain any non-volatile silicone oil to be described in detail hereinafter (and thus otherwise does not contain any non-volatile non-amino silicone oil), the content of amino silicone oil is the composition It is at least 4% by weight relative to the weight of.

More specifically, when the composition does not contain any non-volatile silicone oil(s), the content of amino silicone oil(s) is 4% to 45% by weight relative to the weight of amino silicone oil(s) in the composition, Preferably it ranges from 6% to 40% by weight, even more advantageously from 8% to 35% by weight.

When the composition comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil, the content of amino silicone oil(s) is 1% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, the content of amino silicone oil(s) is 1.5% to 15% by weight, preferably 2% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Advantageously, if contained in the composition, the total content of amino silicone oil(s) and the non-volatile silicone oil(s) is 4% to 45% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Non-volatile silicone oil

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any (poly)oxyalkylene group or any (poly)glycerol group, optionally having an oxyalkylene unit C ₂ -C ₃ , at least one ratio. Volatile silicone oils.

Further, the non-volatile silicone oil(s) are free of amino groups and preferably free of nitrogen atoms. Therefore, they are not amino silicone oils.

Preferably, the non-volatile silicone oil is free of -Si-H groups.

Also, if the non-volatile silicone oil does not contain any phenyl groups, it preferably does not contain any C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl groups.

The definitions given previously for the terms "oil", "non-volatile oil" and "silicone oil" remain valid here and will not be repeated.

Preferably, the non-volatile silicone oil is non-ionic.

According to the invention, the term " nonionic " means that the compound does not contain any ionic groups, regardless of the pH of the composition.

Among the non-volatile silicone oils that can be used in the present invention, examples that may be mentioned include non-volatile phenyl silicone oils and non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils optionally carrying a dimethicone fragment, and also mixtures thereof.

Silicone oils can be used in the compositions according to the invention in unmodified form, dissolved in at least one volatile or nonvolatile oil, or in emulsion form.

Non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil

The expression "non-phenyl silicone oil" refers to a silicone oil that does not contain a phenyl substituent.

Representative examples of such non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils that may be mentioned are polydimethylsiloxanes; Vinyl dimethicone and copolymers with dimethicone.

In addition, the term "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).

In particular, these oils can be selected from the following non-volatile oils:

-Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS),

-Polydimethylsiloxanes containing functional groups such as hydroxyl groups,

-Divinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer,

-Mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil can be particularly selected from silicones of the formula (I):

[Formula I]

Where,

-R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ together or separately, are alkyl radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

-R ₃ and R ₄ together or separately, are alkyl radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or hydroxyl radicals,

-X is an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical,

-n and p in particular to have a fluid compound having a viscosity at 25° C. of less than 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 kPa/s) to 800000 cSt (800000 kPa/s), advantageously 600000 cSt (600000 kPa/s) It is a selected integer.

As a non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oil suitable for carrying out the present invention, the following may be mentioned:

-Substituents R ₁ to R ₆ and X represent a methyl group, p and n have a viscosity of 500000 cSt (500000 kPa/s), for example, a product sold under the trade name Silsoft SE30 by Momentive Performance Materials, Wacker Products sold under the trade name AK 500000, products sold under the trade name Mirasil DM 500000 by Bluestar, and products sold under the trade name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 500000 cSt by Dow Corning,

-Substituents R ₁ to R ₆ and X represent a methyl group, p and n have a viscosity of 60000 cSt (60000 kPa/s), for example a product sold under the trademark Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the company Dow Corning, And products sold under the trade name Belsil DM 60000 by Wacker,

-Substituents R ₁ to R ₆ and X represent a methyl group, and p and n have a viscosity of 100 cSt (100 kPa/s) or 350 cSt (350 kPa/s), for example each under the trade name Belsil from Dow Corning Products sold as DM100 and Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS, and

-Substituents R ₁ to R ₆ represent a methyl group, group X represents a hydroxyl group, n and p have a viscosity of 700 cSt (700 kPa/s), for example under the trademark Baysilone Fluid T0 by Momentive Performance Materials Products sold as .7.

Dimethiconols such as Xiameter PMX-1503 (as a mixture with dimethicone) and Xiameter PMX-1502 (a mixture with C11-13 isoparaffin, isohexadecane, dimethicone) from Dow Corning may also be suitable for use. have.

The silicone oil can be used in unmodified form, dissolved in at least one volatile or nonvolatile oil, or in emulsion form.

As an example of an emulsion of a non-volatile silicone oil, Xiameter MEM-1352 emulsion (dimethicone, laureth-23, C12-15 pareth-3), Xiameter MEM 1491 emulsion (dimethicone, laureth-23, sold by Dow Corning) C12-15 Pareth-3), Xiameter MEM-1691 emulsion (Dimethicone, C12-13 Pareth-4 and C12-13 Pareth-23 and Salicylic Acid), Xiameter MEM 1652 emulsion (Dimethicone, C12-13 Pareth-23; C12 -C15 Pareth 3, salicylic acid), Xiameter MEM 1664 emulsion (dimethicone, laureth-4, laureth-23), Xiameter MEM-2664 emulsion (dimethicone, laureth-23, laureth-4), Xiameter MEM- 1784 emulsion or Dow Corning CE2060 (dimethicone, cocamidopropylbetaine, C12-15 pareth-3, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride), Xiameter MEM-1785 emulsion, Xiameter MEM-1784 emulsion or Xiameter MEM-1788 emulsion ( Dimethiconol, TEA dodecylbenzenesulfonate), Belsil DM 3560 VP (dimethiconol, sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, trideceth-10), Dow Corning HMW 2220 nonionic emulsion (divinyl dimethicone/dimethicone Copolymer, C12-13 Pareth-3, C12-13 Pareth-23); KM-862T (nonionic) products from Shin-Etsu can be mentioned.

Non-volatile phenyl silicone oil

The expression "phenyl silicone oil" refers to silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.

These non-volatile phenyl silicone oils can be selected from those that also retain at least one dimethicone fragment, or those that do not. It should be noted that the term "dimethicone fragment" refers to a divalent siloxane group in which the silicon atom has two methyl radicals, which group is not located at the end of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ -O)-.

Therefore, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil can be selected from:

-A phenyl silicone oil optionally carrying a dimethicone fragment, corresponding to the formula (I):

[Formula I]

In the formula, the monovalent or divalent group R independently of each other represents methyl, methylene, phenyl or phenylene, provided that at least one group R represents phenyl.

Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least 3, for example at least 4, at least 5 or at least 6 phenyl groups.

-A phenyl silicone oil optionally carrying a dimethicone fragment, corresponding to formula II:

[Formula II]

In the formula, the groups R independently of each other represent methyl or phenyl, provided that at least one group R represents phenyl.

Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula II comprises at least 3, for example at least 4 or at least 5 phenyl groups.

Mixtures of different compounds of formula II described above can be used.

Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenylorganopolysiloxanes.

Among the compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of phenyl silicone oils which do not have any dimethicone fragments, more specifically corresponding to formula (II), wherein at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, The remaining radicals represent methyl.

Such a non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. This is especially referenced by Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane ), or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, sold as a reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning, may also be used.

This particularly corresponds to the following formulas III and III':

[Formula III]

[Formula III']

(Wherein, Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl).

-A phenyl silicone oil having at least one dimethicone fragment, corresponding to formula IV:

[Formula IV]

(In the formula, Me represents methyl, y is 1 to 1000, and X represents -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )(Ph)).

-A phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula V, optionally carrying a dimethicone fragment, and mixtures thereof:

[Formula V]

(In the formula,

-R ₁ to R ₁₀ are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated and linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals,

-m, n, p and q are each independently an integer of 0 to 1000, preferably 900, provided that the total m+n+q is not 0 and the silicone oil is non-volatile.

Preferably, the total m+n+q is 1 to 100. Advantageously, the total m+n+p+q is 1 to 1000, more specifically 1 to 900, and preferably 1 to 800.

Preferably, q is equal to 0.

More specifically, R ₁ to R ₁₀ are independently of each other saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, and linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals, particularly preferably saturated C ₁ -C ₂₀ , especially C ₁ -C ₁₈ , a hydrocarbon-based radical, or monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆ -C ₁₄ , in particular a C ₁₀ -C ₁₃ aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl portion of which is preferably C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl Indicates.

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₁₀ may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or, as a variant, a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. R ₁ to R ₁₀ may be particularly the same, and may also be methyl radicals).

As a specific embodiment of Formula V, the following may be mentioned:

o a phenyl silicone oil, optionally having at least one dimethicone fragment, corresponding to formula VI, and mixtures thereof:

[Formula VI]

Where,

R ₁ to R ₆ are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C ₆ -C ₁₄ aryl radicals or aralkyl radicals (the alkyl portion of which is C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl),

■ m, n and p are each independently an integer of 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 100, provided that the total n+m is 1 to 1000, preferably 1 to 100.

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆ are independently of _one another C ₁ -C ₂₀ , especially C ₁ -C ₁₈ , preferably alkyl, hydrocarbon-based radicals, or C ₆ -C ₁₄ aryl radicals (which are monocyclic (preferably Represents a C ₆ aryl radical) or polycyclic), in particular a C ₁₀ -C ₁₃ aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl portion is C ₆ aryl; the alkyl portion is C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl). .

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆ may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or, as a variant, a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

R ₁ to R ₆ may be particularly the same, and may also be methyl radicals. Preferably, in Formula VI, m = 1 or 2 or 3 and/or n = 0 and/or p = 0 or 1 may be applied.

According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is selected from phenyl silicone oils bearing at least one dimethicone fragment.

Preferably, such oils correspond to compounds of formula VI, wherein

■ m = 0 and n and p are each independently an integer from 1 to 100.

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆ are methyl radicals.

According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably a diphenyl dimethicone, such as KF-54 from Shin-Etsu (400 cSt-400 Pa/s), KF-54HV from Shin-Etsu (5000 cSt-5000 Pa) /s), KF-50-300CS from Shin-Etsu (300 cSt 300 ㎟/s), KF-53 from Shin-Etsu (175 cSt-175 ㎟/s) or KF-50- from Shin-Etsu 100CS (100 cSt-100 kPa/s).

■ p is 1 to 1000, total n+m is 1 to 1000, and n = 0.

This phenyl silicone oil, which optionally carries at least one dimethicone fragment, more specifically corresponds to the formula VII:

[Formula VII]

In the formula, Me is methyl, Ph is phenyl, OR' represents -OSiMe ₃ group, p is 0 or 1 to 1000, and m is 1 to 1000. In particular, m and p are what render compound VII a non-volatile oil.

According to a first embodiment of a non-volatile phenyl silicone bearing at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1 and 1000, and m is more specifically such that compound VII becomes a non-volatile oil. For example, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold in particular by the company Wacker under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 or Belsil PDM 20, can be used.

According to a second embodiment of a non-volatile phenyl silicone that does not contain any dimethicone fragments, p is 0, m is 1 to 1000, in particular to make compound VII a non-volatile oil.

For example, phenyl trimethicone, which is sold in particular as the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556), can be used.

o Non-volatile phenyl silicone oils without any dimethicone fragments, corresponding to Formula VIII below, and mixtures thereof:

[Formula VIII]

Where,

-R independently of each other is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radical, preferably R is a C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl radical, preferably C ₆ -C ₁₄ aryl radical , Or an aralkyl radical (the alkyl portion of which is C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl),

-m and n are each independently an integer of 0 to 100, provided that the total n+m is 1 to 100.

Preferably, R is independently of one another saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals, particularly preferably saturated, C ₁ -C ₂₀ , especially C ₁ -C ₁₈ , more Specifically, a C ₄ -C ₁₀ hydrocarbon-based radical, monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆ -C ₁₄ , in particular C ₁₀ -C ₁₃ , an aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl portion thereof is C ₆ aryl, Alkyl portion is C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl).

Preferably, the group R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or, as a variant, a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

The radical R can be particularly the same and can also be a methyl radical.

According to a preferred embodiment, in Formula VIII, n is an integer from 0 to 100, m is an integer from 1 to 100, provided that n+m in total is 1 to 100. Preferably, R is a methyl radical.

According to one embodiment, the phenyl silicone of formula VIII having a viscosity at 25° C. of 5 to 1500 kPa/s (ie 5 to 1500 cSt), preferably a viscosity of 5 to 1000 kPa/s (ie 5 to 1000 cSt). Oil can be used.

으로부터의 오일 Silbione 70663V30(28 cSt - 28 ㎟/s)로부터 선택된다. 괄호 안의 값은 25℃에서의 점도를 나타낸다.According to this embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is preferably a phenyl trimethicone (when n = 0, m is more specifically 1 to 3), such as Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning ( 20 cSt-20 kPa/s), or alternatively diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone oil (when m and n are 1 to 100), such as KF56 A from Shin-Etsu, or

Oil from Silbione 70663V30 (28 cSt-28 dl/s). The values in parentheses indicate the viscosity at 25°C.

-A phenyl silicone oil optionally retaining at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures thereof:

[Formula IX]

Where,

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₅ and R ₆ which may be the same or different are alkyl radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R ₃ and R ₄ which may be the same or different are alkyl radicals or aryl radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms (preferably C ₆ -C ₁₄ ), provided that at least one of R ₃ and R ₄ is phenyl Is a radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,

n and p are preferably integers of 1 or more selected to impart oil to a weight average molecular mass of less than 150000 g/mol, more preferably less than 100000 g/mol.

-And mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, when the composition contains any non-volatile silicone oil(s), the content is more specifically 2% to 35% by weight, preferably 8% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. to be.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonvolatile silicone oil.

More specifically, the non-volatile silicone oil(s) are selected from polydimethylsiloxanes; The non-volatile phenyl silicone oil preferably retains dimethicone fragments, and also mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition is a non-volatile silicone oil(s), also comprising polydimethylsiloxane and phenyl silicone of formula V and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil(s) bearing the dimethicone fragment is selected from trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone and diphenyl dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

Naturally, the composition according to the invention can also be added to the nonvolatile phenyl silicone oil in addition to any dimethicone fragments, for example phenyl trimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane and tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, either alone or as a mixture. And non-volatile phenyl silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one polar or non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

The term “ hydrocarbon-based oil ” is formed at or even consisting essentially of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and does not contain any silicon or fluorine atoms at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 ^{5 ).} Pa) represents a non-aqueous water-immiscible compound liquid, thus the hydrocarbon-based oil is different from silicone oil or fluoro oil.

Hydrocarbon-based oils may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

The term "immiscible" more specifically means that mixing the same amount of water and oil under the above temperature and pressure conditions, after stirring, does not produce a stable solution containing only a single phase. Observations were performed on 100 g of the obtained mixture after sufficient stirring with a Rayneri blender (as a guide, 200-1000 rpm) to generate vortex in the mixture with the naked eye or if necessary using a phase contrast microscope. The resulting mixture was left in a closed flask at room temperature for 24 hours before observation.

Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil

In particular, the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) include C ₁₀ -C ₂₆ alcohols; Selective hydroxylated monoesters, diesters and triesters of C ₂ -C ₈ monocarboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acids and C ₂ -C ₈ alcohols; Esters of C ₂ -C ₈ polyols and one or more C ₂ -C ₈ carboxylic acids; Ester oils containing at least 17 carbon atoms, in particular 17 to 70 carbon atoms; Hydrocarbon-based vegetable oils; Sucrose esters; Vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer; An oil comprising at least one carbonate functional group; And mixtures thereof.

For ester oils containing at least 17 carbon atoms, monoesters, diesters or triesters can be mentioned.

Ester oils may or may not be hydroxylated.

More specifically, these oils are selected from:

- C ₁₀ -C ₂₆ alcohol, preferably a mono-alcohol;

More specifically, the C ₁₀ -C ₂₆ alcohol is saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and contains 10 to 26 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the C ₁₀ -C ₂₆ alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they contain at least 16 carbon atoms.

Examples of fatty alcohols that can be used in accordance with the invention include linear or branched fatty alcohols of synthetic or alternatively natural origin, for example vegetable substances (coconut, palm kernel, palm, etc.) or animal substances (such as tallow). Alcohols derived from may be mentioned.

Other long chain alcohols, such as ether alcohols or “Guerbet” alcohols can also be used.

Finally, certain rather long fractions of alcohols of natural origin, for example coconut (C ₁₂ to C ₁₆ ) or tallow (C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ ), can also be used.

Preferably, the fatty alcohol contains 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

Specific examples of fatty alcohols that can be preferably used include, in particular, lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol and Octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof can be mentioned.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is selected from octyldodecanol.

-Selective hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of C ₂ -C ₈ monocarboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acids and C ₂ -C ₈ alcohols.

Especially,

* Selective hydroxylated monoesters of C ₂ -C ₈ carboxylic acids and C ₂ -C ₈ alcohols,

* Selective hydroxylated diesters of C ₂ -C ₈ dicarboxylic acids and C ₂ -C ₈ alcohols, such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate,

* Selective hydroxylated triesters of C ₂ -C ₈ tricarboxylic acids and C ₂ -C ₈ alcohols, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate or tributyl citrate.

-Esters of C ₂ -C ₈ polyols and one or more C ₂ -C ₈ carboxylic acids , such as glycol diesters of monoacids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, or glycol triesters of monoacids, such as triacetin.

As a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil suitable for use, the following may also be mentioned:

* A monoester comprising at least 17 carbon atoms , in particular a total of 17 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular a monoester of the formula R1COOR2, wherein R1 is saturated or unsaturated containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms , Represents a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid residue and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially branched, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1 + R2 ≥ 17, for example a monoester, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stea Rate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoate, decanoate or ricinoleate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate , Butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate or 2-octyldodecyl myristate.

Preferably, these are esters of the formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , wherein R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, and R ₂ contains 4 to 40 carbon atoms Represents a hydrocarbon chain, which is particularly branched, and R ₁ and R ₂ are such that R ₁ + R ₂ ≥ 17.

Even more specifically, the ester contains a total of 17 to 40 carbon atoms.

Preferred monoesters that may be mentioned include isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and/or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate;

* At least 17 and comprising carbon atoms, in particular 17 to 22 fatty acid monoesters of diols and containing carbon atoms. These may especially be esters of lanolinic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid with diols, for example propylene glycol monoisostearate.

* Diesters containing at least 17 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated diesters or in particular a total of 17 to 60 carbon atoms, in particular a total of 17 to 50 carbon atoms Aromatic diester containing. Therefore, more specifically, a selective hydroxylated diester of dicarboxylic acid and saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol, preferably diisostearyl malate, for example, can be used. In particular diesters of C ₂ -C ₅ glycols, glycerol or diglycerol with linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic monocarboxylic acids, for example neopentyl glycol dicaprate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol dibenzo Eight, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or poly(2-glyceryl) diisostearate (specifically, for example, a compound sold by Alzo under the commercial reference Dermol DGDIS) may also be used.

* Hydroxylated monoesters and diesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms, preferably having a total carbon atom in the range from 17 to 70, for example poly(3-glyceryl) diisostearate, iso Stearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or glyceryl stearate.

* A triester comprising at least 35 carbon atoms, in particular a total of 35 to 70 carbon atoms, in particular a triester of a tricarboxylic acid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or Glycol triesters of monocarboxylic acids, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate.

* Contains at least 35 comprising carbon atoms, in particular tetra-ester having a total of carbon atoms in the 35 to 70 range, for example, monocarboxylic acids of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetra esters such as pentaerythrityl-trityl tetra Pella carrying carbonate , Pentaerythryl tetraisostearate, pentaerythryl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate, poly(2-glyceryl) tetraisostearate or pentaerythryl tetrakis (2-decyl)tetradecanoate.

* Polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and/or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids with diols , such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Particularly in this regard, polymers sold under the trade name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer) by Biosynthis, or alternatively copolymers of polyols and dimer diacids, and esters thereof, such as Hailucent ISDA Can be mentioned.

* Esters and polyesters of diol dimers and monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acids , such as esters of diol dimers and fatty acids and esters of diol dimers and dicarboxylic dimers, especially unsaturated fatty acids, especially C ₈ to C ₃₄ , especially C ₁₂ To esters obtainable from dicarboxylic acid dimers derived from dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids of C ₂₂ , especially C ₁₆ to C ₂₀ , more specifically C _18, of dilinoleic diacids and dilinoleic diol dimers Esters, such as those sold under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5 ^® and DD-DA7 ^® by Nippon Fine Chemical.

* Polyesters produced by esterification of at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid triglyceride with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and optionally unsaturated, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, such as succinic acid and isostearic acid castor oil sold by Zenitech as reference Zenigloss.

에서 참조 Dub TGI 24로 판매되는 것들, 및 불포화 트리글리세리드, 예컨대 피마자유, 올리브유, 시메니아유(ximenia 오일) 또는 프라칵시유(pracaxi 오일)가 언급될 수 있다. * Hydrocarbon-based vegetable oils, such as fatty acid triglycerides of fatty acids containing especially 7 to 40 carbon atoms (which are liquid at room temperature), such as heptanoic acid or octanoic acid triglyceride or jojoba oil; In particular saturated triglycerides such as caprylic/capric triglycerides and mixtures thereof, for example products sold under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, and C _18-36 acid triglycerides , For example

Reference may be made to those sold under the reference Dub TGI 24, and unsaturated triglycerides, such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil or pracaxi oil.

* Sucrose esters , preferably those selected from sucrose and hydrocarbon-based esters of C ₂ -C ₆ carboxylic acids, especially those selected from mixtures of acetic acid and esters of isobutyric acid with sucrose, preferably sucrose diacetate Hexakis (2-methylpropanoate), in particular the compound with the INCI name sucrose acetate isobutyrate (especially sold by Eastman Chemicals as Sustane SAIB Food Grade Kosher) and the number of INCIs sold by Croda as reference Crodaderm S Compounds of cross polyisoates, sucrose polybehenate sold by Croda as reference Crodaderm B, sucrose polycottonseedate sold by Croda as reference Crodaderm C; And mixtures thereof.

-Vinylpyrrolidone /1-hexadecene copolymers , for example products sold by ISP under the trade name Antaron V-216 (also known as Ganex V216).

-Dialkyl carbonates (the two alkyl chains may be the same or different), such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the trade name Cetiol CC ^® by Cognis.

-And mixtures thereof .

Non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil

The non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) is more specifically selected from compounds containing only carbon and hydrogen atoms (hydrocarbons).

The linear or branched oil can be of mineral or synthetic origin, for example:

-Liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof,

-Squalane,

-Isoacic acid,

-Naphthalene oil,

-Hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes such as Indopol H-100, Indopol H-300 or Indopol H-1500 sold or manufactured by Amoco,

- Polyisobutene and hydrogenated polyisobutene, for example Parleam ^® products sold by Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E sold by Amoco, Viseal 20000 sold by Synteal, Rewopal PIB 1000 sold by Witco Or Parleam Lite, sold by NOF Corporation,

-Decene/butene copolymers and polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14,

-Polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, for example Puresyn 10, Puresyn 150 or Puresyn 6 sold by ExxonMobil Chemical,

-And mixtures thereof.

According to a more specific embodiment of the invention, when the composition contains any polar or non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, the content of the polar or non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) is non-volatile silicone oil(s)/polar Alternatively, the non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) weight ratio is greater than 1, preferably greater than 2.

Preferably, when the composition comprises at least one polar or non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, the content of this kind of oil is advantageously from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Preferably, when the composition comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil, it is selected from non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils.

According to an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention does not contain any additional non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s).

Volatile oil

The composition according to the invention may more specifically comprise at least one volatile oil, which is selected from hydrocarbon-based or silicone volatile oils.

The term “volatile oil” means an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature (25° C.), in particular in the range of 2.66 Pa to 40000 Pa, in particular 2.66 Pa to 13000 Pa, preferably 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are preferably selected from non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils, and in particular volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular from the following:

-Branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes such as C ₈ -C ₁₆ isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, for example oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl,

-Linear alkanes, for example n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold as reference parafol 12-97 and parafol 14-97 respectively in Sasol, and also mixtures thereof, undecane-tridecane mixtures (Cetiol UT), a mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 from Cognis, and

-Mixtures thereof.

Volatile silicone oils can be selected from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) containing 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

Examples of such oils that may be mentioned, alone or as a mixture, octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, deca Methyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, such as sold by Dow Corning as reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt-1.5 ㎟/s), DC 200 (5 cSt-5 ㎟/s) or DC 200 (3 cSt-3 ㎟/s) Or those sold under Shin-Etsu as KF 96 A.

When the composition comprises any volatile oil, the content of volatile oil(s) is such that the silicone resin/volatile oil(s) weight ratio is greater than 0.5, more specifically greater than 1, preferably greater than 1.

More specifically, if the composition comprises any volatile oil, the content of volatile oil(s) is less than 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Preferably, the content of volatile oil(s) is in the range of 0.1 to 30% by weight, more specifically 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably 1% to 15% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

Surfactants

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one surfactant selected from ionic, especially anionic, or nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactants, preferably nonionic, silicone surfactants, and also mixtures thereof. .

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant. More specifically, it includes at least one nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant having an HLB of 8 or more.

According to this variant, the composition may comprise at least one additional surfactant selected from nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactants having an HLB of less than 8, or anionic hydrocarbon-based surfactants, and also mixtures thereof.

The composition may optionally include at least one nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant having an HLB of 8 or greater and preferably at least one silicone surfactant that is nonionic. Such emulsions may optionally include at least one additional surfactant selected from nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactants having an HLB of less than 8 and/or anionic hydrocarbon-based surfactants.

More specifically, the content of the surfactant is in the range of 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

It should be noted that the content and nature of the surfactant is such that the composition is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

Nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant

Nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant with high HLB

According to the present invention, the composition may comprise at least one nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant having an HLB of 8 or greater, preferably greater than 8 (HLB: hydrophilic-lipophilic balance; by Griffin concept, J. Soc Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256).

The nonionic surfactant(s) are in particular alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), alkyl and polyalkyl of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated. Esters, optionally polyoxyethylenated, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, especially alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose , Alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, optionally polyoxyethylenated, and alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, optionally polyoxyethylenated, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) is poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan Alkyl and polyalkyl esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and polyoxy of glycerol Ethylenized or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.

1) Alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) preferably used are those containing at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl radical having an ethylene oxide (EO) unit number ranging from 2 to 200 ( That is, poly(ethylene oxide) alcohol-or polyoxyethylenated alcohol, and poly(ethylene oxide) ether-or polyoxyethylenated ether). For example, (INCI name) PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-150 distearate , PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cocoate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.

2) Alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) preferably used are those containing at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl radical having ethylene oxide (EO) unit numbers in the range of 3 to 200. . For example, laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-23, cethes-5, cethes-7, cethes-15, cethes-23, oles-5, all Les-7, Oles-10, Oles-12, Oles-20, Oles-50, Phytosterol 30 EO, Steareth-6, Steareth-20, Steareth-21, Steareth-40, Steareth -100, Behenes 100, Ceteares-7, Ceteares-10, Ceteares-15, Ceteares-25, Palace-3, Palace-23, C12-15 Palace-3, C12-13 Palace-4, C12 -13 pares-23, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7 and trideceth-10, and mixtures thereof.

3) The optionally used polyoxyethylenated, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan are those having ethylene oxide (EO) unit numbers in the range of 0, preferably greater than 0 to 100. For example, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan laurate 4 EO, sorbitan laurate 20 EO (polysorbate 20), sorbitan palmitate 20 EO (polysorbate 40), sorbitan stearate 20 EO (poly Sorbate 60), sorbitan oleate 20 EO (polysorbate 80) and sorbitan trioleate 20 EO (polysorbate 85).

4) Alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated, which are preferably used are those having ethylene oxide (EO) unit numbers in the range of 0, preferably greater than 0 to 100.

5) Alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides which are preferably used contain alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18 or even 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably Preferentially those containing glucoside groups comprising 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 or 3 glucoside units. The alkylpolyglucoside is, for example, decylglucoside (C ₉ /C ₁₁ -alkylpolyglucoside (1.4)), for example a product sold under the trade name Mydol 10 ^® by Kao Chemicals or under the trademark Plantacare 2000 UP by Henkel Products sold under ^® and products sold under the trade name Oramix NS 10 ^® by SEPPIC; Caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for example products sold under the trade name Plantacare KE 3711 ^® by Cognis or products sold under the trade name Oramix CG 110 ^® by SEPPIC; Laurylglucoside, for example a product sold under the trade name Plantacare 1200 UP ^® by Henkel or a product sold under the trade name Plantaren 1200 N ^® by Henkel; Cocoglucosides, for example products sold under the trade name Plantacare 818 UP ^® by Henkel; Caprylyl glucoside, for example, products sold in Cognis Corporation under the trade name Plantacare 810 UP ^®; And mixtures thereof.

6) Examples of alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose that may be mentioned are Crodesta F150, sucrose monolaurate sold under the trade name Crodesta SL 40, and products sold by Ryoto Sugar Ester, see for example Ryoto Sugar Ester P1670 There are sucrose palmitates available as Ryoto Sugar Ester LWA 1695 or Ryoto Sugar Ester 01570. Sucrose monooleate, monomyristate and monostearate are also suitable for use.

7) The optionally used polyoxyethylenated, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol are those having ethylene oxide (EO) unit numbers ranging from 0 to 100 and glycerol unit numbers ranging from 1 to 30. For example, hexaglyceryl monolaurate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate , PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate.

8) The optionally used polyoxyethylenated, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol are those having ethylene oxide (EO) unit numbers ranging from 0 to 100 and glycerol unit numbers ranging from 1 to 30. Examples that may be mentioned include Nikkol Batyl Alcohol 100 and Nikkol Chimyl Alcohol 100.

Nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant with low HLB

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant, especially selected from surfactants having an HLB value of less than 8.

Examples of such surfactants, which may be particularly mentioned alone or in mixtures, include:

1) (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )alkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), preferably those having ethylene oxide (EO) unit numbers in the range from 2 to 4, for example. Examples that may particularly be mentioned are laureth-2; Steareth-2; Oles-2; Setes-2; Ceteareth-3; Trideceth-3;

2) (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )alkyl and (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )polyalkyl esters of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide), preferably for example Those having ethylene oxide (EO) unit numbers in the range of 1 to 5, for example, glycol distearate, glycol stearate, PEG-2 oleate; PEG-3 oleate; PEG-4 dilaurate, propylene glycol isostearate; PEG-2.5 castor oil; PEG-3 castor oil;

3) A polyoxyalkyleneated C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty acid polyester, preferably containing 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, having water-in-oil emulsification properties. In particular, these polymers are block polymers, preferably of ABA structure, comprising poly(hydroxylated ester) blocks and polyethylene glycol blocks. The fatty acid of the emulsifying polymer as defined above preferably contains 14 to 18 carbon atoms. Esters can be particularly selected from oleate, palmitate and stearate. The polyethylene glycol block of the emulsifying polymer as defined above preferably comprises 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide. Particularly suitable polymeric surfactants for preparing the compositions of the present invention are polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearates containing 30 EO, sold under the trade name Arlacel P 135 by Croda.

4) (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )alkyl and (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, such as sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan palmi Tate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, a mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate (Arlacel 2121 sold by Croda), or sorbitan glyceryl isostearate; Sorbitan isostearate (Arlacel 986 sold by Croda) in combination with hydrogenated castor oil, stearic acid and white wheat, and mixtures thereof.

5) The (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )alkyl and poly(C ₈ -C ₃₀ )alkyl esters of (poly)glycerol preferably used are those having a glycerol unit number in the range of 1 to 4. For example, alone or as a mixture, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan GI 34 sold by Evonik Goldschmidt); Polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Lameform TGI sold by Cognis), glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl laurate may be mentioned. .

Ionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant

The composition may optionally contain one or more ionic, particularly anionic surfactants, which are preferably hydrocarbon-based.

These surfactants can be selected from salts of alkali metals, in particular of sodium or potassium, or alternatively of primary or secondary amines or alkanolamines, especially C ₂ -C ₄ of the following compounds: :

These compounds generally contain 8 to 30 carbon atoms in their longest hydrocarbon-based chain, especially 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and are saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic. They can also contain up to 20 oxyalkylene units (C ₂ -C ₃ ), preferably up to 15 units (particularly oxyethylene units):

Alkyl ether sulfates,

Especially salts of fatty acids of C ₈ -C ₂₀ , especially monocarboxylic acid salts;

Carboxylates, such as N-acylamino acid, alkyl glycol carboxylate, ether carboxylate, amido ether carboxylate;

Amino acid salts, especially sarcosinate, alaninate, glutamate, aspartate and glycinate,

Sulfonates, such as alkanolamines or alkali metals (e.g., sodium) of alpha-olefin sulfonates, especially dodecylbenzene sulfonate,

Isethionate, such as acyl isethionate,

Taurates such as N-acyl methyl taurate, especially N-acyl methyl taurate,

Sulfosuccinates, such as alkyl sulfosuccinates, especially dioctyl sulfosuccinate salts,

Alkyl sulfoacetate,

Phosphate and alkyl phosphates,

Polypeptides obtained, for example, by condensing fatty chains on amino acids from cereals, especially from wheat and oats.

Preferably, when the composition comprises it, the composition is less than or equal to 2.5% by weight, more specifically less than or equal to 1.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, or even less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, based on the weight of the composition , Amines or alkanolamines, or fatty acids, especially salts of C ₈ -C ₂₀ .

Silicone surfactant

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one silicone surfactant, which is preferably nonionic.

The silicone surfactant(s) can be selected from compounds having an HLB value of 8 or greater, or less than 8.

Among nonionic silicone surfactants suitable for use, for example, alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols having alkyl or alkoxy chains on the sides or ends of the silicone backbone, containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; More specifically, dimethicone co, which is a crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxane comprising oxypropyleneified and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl methyl siloxane, branched (poly)glycerolated polysiloxane, and also at least one oxyalkylene group. Polyols, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols that may be mentioned include compounds of formula I:

[Formula I]

Where,

-PE represents (-C ₂ H ₄ O) _x -(C ₃ H ₆ O) _y -R, R is selected from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x is 0 to 100 Range, y is in the range from 0 to 80, and x and y are not simultaneously 0; Preferably, R represents a hydrogen atom;

-m ranges from 1 to 40, preferably 1 to 10;

-n is in the range of 10 to 200, preferably 10 to 100;

-o is in the range of 1 to 100, preferably 1 to 30;

-p is in the range of 5 to 21, more specifically 7 to 21;

-q is in the range of 0 to 4, preferably 1 to 3.

As an example of the dimethicone copolyol, more specifically, those corresponding to the following formula II can be used:

[Formula II]

Where,

-R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ independently of each other represent a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical or radical -(CH ₂ ) _x -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _z -OR ₄ Represents, at least one radical R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ is not an alkyl radical; R ₄ is hydrogen, a C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl radical or a C ₂ -C ₄ acyl radical;

-A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

-B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50, provided that A and B are not simultaneously 0;

-x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;

-y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;

-z is an integer ranging from 0 to 30, preferably from 0 to 20.

Among the particularly preferred silicone surfactants, the following may be mentioned:

-Dimethicone copolyols, for example the trade names KF-6015 (PEG-3 dimethicone), KF-6016 (PEG-9 methyl ether dimethicone), KF-6017 (PEG-10 dimethicone) from Shin-Etsu, KF-6028 (PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone), KF-6050 L (PEG/PPG 18/18 dimethicone in cyclopentasiloxane), X-22-6711D (PEG/PPG 18/18 in dimethicone) Dimethicone); Dimethicone copolyol sold under the trade name Xiameter OFX-0193 Fluid (PEG-12 dimethicone); Dow Corning 3225C ^® (cycloalkyl cyclotetrasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane mixture of PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone in a), DC 5225 C Formulation Aid (cyclopentasiloxane PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone in); Or a product sold by Momentive Performance Materials under the trade name SF 1528 GE (a mixture of PEG/PPG-20/15 dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane).

The product Abil Care 85 (bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 dimethicone as a mixture with capric/caprylic triglyceride) can be used.

In addition, alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as the alkoxy of lauryl methicone sold under the trademark Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning (more specifically containing 18 moles of ethylene oxide and 18 moles of propylene oxide on average) Is a derivative derivative) lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone; Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (more specifically a copolymer of cetyl dimethicone and an alkoxylated derivative of dimethicone containing an average of 10 moles of ethylene oxide and 1 mole of propylene oxide), such as Evonik Goldschmidt A mixture of cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the trademark Abil EM 90 by the company and also under the trademark Abil WE 09 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt. Can be used.

Polyglyceryl-3 disiloxane dimethicone (KF 6100 from Shin-Etsu) can be used similarly.

Emulsion surfactants which may also be mentioned are crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxanes comprising at least one oxyalkylene group, especially for water-in-oil emulsions, examples 3, 4 and 8 of US-A-5 412 004 And products obtained according to the procedure of the example of US-A-5 811 487, in particular the product of Example 3 (synthesis example) of patent US-A-5 412 004 and for example references from Shin-Etsu KSG 21 and KSG- Includes products sold as 210.

Preferably, the C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol used is a cetyl dimethicone copolyol, in particular a product whose INCI name is cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, for example under the trade name Abil EM-90 from Evonik Goldschmidt It is a product to be sold. Also, a mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol and polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and hexyl laurate, for example a product sold under the trade name Abil WE-09 by Evonik Goldschmidt (INCI name is polyglyceryl-4 isostea Late (and) hexyl laurate (and) cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone) can be used.

Advantageously, when a silicone surfactant is present, the silicone surfactant(s) are selected from dimethicone copolyols, alkyl dimethicone copolyols described above, alone or as a mixture.

More specifically, the silicone surfactant(s) is a C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol (INCI name: cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone), dimethicone copolyol, such as PEG dime Thicon, PEG/PPG 18/18 dimethicone (INCI name), and also mixtures thereof. Also, a mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol and polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and hexyl laurate, for example a product sold under the trade name Abil WE-09 by Evonik Goldschmidt (INCI name is polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (And) Hexyl laurate (and) cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone) can be used.

Mercury statue

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion, wherein the aqueous phase preferably constitutes a continuous phase (direct emulsion) of the emulsion.

The term "composition having an aqueous continuous phase" means that the pH value can be measured for the composition more specifically using a suitable electrode (eg, MPC227 conductivity meter from Mettler Toledo).

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 10% by weight of water relative to the weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the water content is 10% to 70% by weight, preferably 15% to 65% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may contain at least one water-soluble solvent in addition to water.

In the present invention, the term "water soluble solvent" refers to a compound that is liquid at room temperature and is water miscible (more than 50% by weight miscibility with water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

Water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention can also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of lower monoalcohols, especially containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, C ₃ and C ₄ ketones and C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes. have.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a monoalcohol comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms in a total content of 0 to 15% by weight (including the borders) based on the weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 2 to 8 carbon atoms in a total content of 0 to 10% by weight (including the border), advantageously 0 to 5% by weight (including the border), based on the weight of the composition. Monoalcohol.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of monoalcohols containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the monoalcohol(s) comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms is selected from ethanol, butanol, methanol and isopropanol.

C ₂ -C ₈ Polyol

The composition optionally comprises at least one polyol comprising 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, more specifically a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₂ -C ₈ , preferably C ₃ -C ₆ compound. It can contain as.

Preferably, the polyol is selected from glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, dibutylene glycol and diglycerol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, when the composition comprises any polyol, the content is less than 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, more specifically 0.05% to less than 10% by weight, preferably 0.1% to less than 10% by weight Indicates. According to an even more advantageous embodiment, the polyol content varies from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Hydrophilic thickener

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer (also known as aqueous phase thickening polymer).

More specifically, this thickening polymer can be selected from:

-Homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or salts thereof and esters thereof. Particular examples that may be mentioned are the trade names Versicol F or Versicol K from Allied Colloid, the trade name Ultrahold 8 from Ciba-Geigy, the trade name Cosmedia SP from BASF, and the trade name Lecigel (sodium acrylate copolymer from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics). /A mixture of lecithin); Synthalen K type polyacrylic acid, and salts of polyacrylic acid, especially sodium salts (corresponding to the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer) and more specifically crosslinked sodium polyacrylates sold under the trade name Luvigel EM (INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer Coalescence (and) corresponding to caprylic/capric triglycerides).

In addition, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, most specifically acrylate/C10-C30-alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI name: acrylate/C10-30 alkyl Acrylate crosspolymers), such as the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020, even more preferentially Pemulen TR-2; Copolymers of methacrylic acid, methyl methacrylate, methylstyrene isocyanate and PEG-40 behenate (INCI name: polyacrylate-3) (Viscophobe DB 1000 sold by Dow) may be mentioned,

-Copolymer of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of sodium salt under the trade name Reten by Hercules, under the trade name Darvan No. by Vanderbilt. Sodium polymethacrylate sold under 7, and the sodium salt of polyhydroxycarboxylic acid sold under the trade name Hydagen F by Henkel,

-Homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic amidopropanesulfonic acid, for example:

-Polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid partially neutralized and highly crosslinked with ammonia water, for example Hostacerin AMPS, especially the product sold by Clariant

-For example copolymers of acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid/acrylamide of the type Sepigel or Simulgel, especially sold by SEPPIC,

-In particular, polyoxyethylenated acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid/alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or uncrosslinked) of the same type as Aristoflex HMS and Aristoflex TAC sold by Clariant,

-Copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate, for example acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, especially sold under the trade name Simulgel NS, for example by SEPPIC The product used for the product being used or the product used for the product acrylamido methylpropanesulfonic acid/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, especially for the product sold under the trade name Sepinov EMT 10, for example sold by SEPPIC (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer);

-Copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid and vinylpyrrolidone, such as Aristoflex AVC (ammonia ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer) sold by Clariant;

-And mixtures thereof.

Other examples of hydrophilic gelling polymers that may be mentioned include:

-Anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers;

-Selected from cellulose polymers, especially hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, and quaternized cellulose derivatives (C ₁ -C ₃ )Hydroxyalkylcellulose;

Vinyl polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; Polyvinyl alcohol,

-Optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as galactomannan and derivatives thereof, such as konjac gum, gellan gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, gum arabic , Acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate group (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), xanthan gum and derivatives thereof;

-Alginate and carrageenan;

Mucus polysaccharides, such as hyaluronic acid;

-And mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening polymer is selected from copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid, in particular copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid with hydroxyethyl acrylate, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, when the composition contains any hydrophilic thickening polymer, the content of the hydrophilic thickening polymer is 0.01% to 1.5% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 1% by weight, advantageously 0.1 to 0.8% by weight.

dyes

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one dye. Preferably, the dye is selected from water soluble or water insoluble, oil soluble or insoluble, organic or mineral dyes, and substances having optical effects, and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dye" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in a sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium.

Water soluble dye

The water-soluble dye used according to the present invention is more specifically a water-soluble dye.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water soluble dye" refers to any natural or synthetic, generally organic, compound that is soluble and colorable in an aqueous phase or water miscible solvent. In particular, the term "water soluble" is intended to characterize the ability of a compound to dissolve in water to a concentration of at least 0.1 g/L when measured at 25°C (macroscopically producing an isotropic, transparent, colored or colorless solution). This solubility is particularly 1 g/L or more.

Water-soluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention, especially synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), FDC Red 40 (CI 16035), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510 Na salt), FDC Yellow 5 ( CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090 ) Can be mentioned.

As non-limiting examples of sources of water-soluble dye(s) that can be used in the context of the present invention, in particular those of natural origin, such as extracts of cochinyl carmine, extracts of beetroot, extracts of grapes, extracts of carrots, extracts of tomatoes , Extract of anato, extract of paprika, extract of henna, extract of caramel and extract of curcumin.

Accordingly, water-soluble dyes suitable for use in the present invention include carminic acid, betanin, anthocyanin, eocyanine, lycopene, bigcin, norbicin, capxanthin, capsorubin, flavoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubizantine , Violaxanthin, riboflavin, rhodoxanthin, canthaxanthin and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.

They can also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, disodium salts of tartrazine and disodium salts of fuchsin.

Some of these water-soluble dyes are particularly acceptable for food. Representative such dyes that may be mentioned more specifically include dyes of the carotenoid family referred to as food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.

Fat-soluble dyes

Among fat-soluble dyes, in particular, fluoran type dyes, such as Sudan Red, FDC Red 4, DC Red 17, Red 21, Red 27, DC Green 6, β-carotene, Sudan Brown, Yellow 10, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 4, DC Orange 5 and Quinoline Yellow, or mixtures thereof.

Pigment

The term “pigment” is to be understood as meaning white or colored inorganic (mineral) or organic particles that are insoluble in the medium and are intended to color and/or opaque the composition and/or the deposits produced by the composition.

The pigment may be selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments and complex pigments (ie, pigments based on mineral and/or organic materials).

Pigments can be selected from monochromatic pigments, lakes, pearlescent agents, and pigments with optical effects, such as reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments.

Mineral pigments are metal oxide pigments, chromium oxide, iron oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue and ferric blue (ferric blue) and mixtures thereof.

Organic pigments can be, for example:

-Cochineal Carmine,

-Organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigo dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes or fluorane dyes,

-Insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium or titanium salts of organic lakes or acidic dyes, e.g. azo, anthraquinone, indigoide, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluoran dyes ( Such dyes generally contain at least one carboxylic acid group or sulfonic acid group),

-Melanin dye.

Among organic pigments, D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5 and FD&C Yellow No. 6 can be mentioned.

The pigment can be subjected to hydrophobic treatment. Hydrophobic treatment agents include, for example, silicones such as methicone, dimethicone and perfluoroalkylsilanes; Fatty acids such as stearic acid; Metal soaps, such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salts of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxide, perfluoroalkyl perfluoro Polyorganosiloxanes containing polyether groups, amino acids; N-acylamino acid or salt thereof; Lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

N-acylamino acids include acyl groups containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl groups Can. Salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds cited above denotes an alkyl group in particular containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Hydrophobic treated pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-1 086 683.

The pigment can also be subjected to hydrophobic treatment, for example with polyalkyloxylated silicone.

로부터의

Base AQ의 안료를 사용하는 것이 상정될 수 있다.Also, either alone or in mixtures, pigments in the form dispersed in water, sorbitol, glycerol or glycols, for example products from the range Covarine, Covasorb and Covasop from Sensient, WD series from Daito and

From

It may be envisaged to use base AQ pigments.

Pearl polish

For the purposes of this patent application, the term "pearl gloss agent" may or may not be iridescent, iridescent, or alternatively synthesized, especially in its shell by certain mollusks, and may be colored through light interference. Means colored particles of any shape having an effect.

Examples of pearlescent agents that may be mentioned are pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, especially titanium mica coated with organic dyes of this type, and It also contains pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles with at least two continuous layers of metal oxide and/or organic dyes superimposed on the surface.

The pearlescent agent may more specifically have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or glint.

Examples of pearlescent agents that can be incorporated into the first composition as interference pigments, in particular the trade names Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X, especially from Engelhard. Gold pearl polish sold as (Cloisonne); In particular bronze pearl polish sold under the trade names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) by Merck, and under the trade name Super bronze (Cloisonne) by Engelhard; In particular, orange pearlescent agents sold under the trade names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) by Engelhard and under the trade names Passion orange (Colorna) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna) by Merck; In particular, brown pearl polish sold under the trade names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite) by Engelhard; Pearlescent polish with copper-colored glint, sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the trade name Copper 340A (Timica); Pearlescent varnish with red glint, especially sold under the trade name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona) from Merck; Pearlescent agents with a yellow glint, especially sold under the trade name Yellow(4502)(Chromalite) by Engelhard; A red pearlescent agent with a gold glint, especially sold by Engelhard under the trade name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); In particular, pink pearlescent agent sold under the trade name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone) by Engelhard; Particularly black pearl polish with gold glint sold by Engelhard under the trade name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), especially blue pearl polish sold under the trade name Matte blue (17433) (Microna) by Merck, especially by Merck Mention may be made of white pearlescent agents with a silver glint sold under the trade name Xirona Silver, and gold-green pink-orange pearlescent agents sold in particular under the trade name Indian summer (Xirona) by the company Merck, and mixtures thereof.

The content of the dye is advantageously 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Filler

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler of organic or mineral nature.

The term "filler" should be understood to mean colorless or white solid particles of any shape, insoluble form dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles of mineral or organic nature give the composition a viscosity or stiffness and/or softness and uniformity to the makeup. They are different from dyes.

Among the fillers that can be used in the composition according to the invention, optionally hydrophilic-treated mica, talc, sericite, polyamide (Nylon®) powder, poly-β-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®) ) Powders, hollow polymer microspheres, such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, e.g. Expancel® (Nobel Industries), acrylic copolymer microspheres, silicone resin microbeads (e.g. from Toshiba Tospearls®), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxide, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules , And metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate, And mixtures thereof, silica, kaolin, starch, laurolysine, fumed silica particles.

The composition used according to the invention may comprise one or more fillers in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Lipophilic thickener

Hydrophobic thickeners are mineral thickeners, in particular eg organophilic clays; Hydrophobic fumed silica; From hydrophobic silica airgels; Organic thickeners, such as oil-gelled polymers of the block polymer type, especially at least one styrene monomer and at least one hydrocarbon monomer having one or two C ₂ -C ₅ ethylenically unsaturated groups, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene and / Or triblock or star polymers obtained by copolymerization of pentadiene, such as polymers sold under the trade name Kraton; Polyamide resins comprising alkyl groups containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as those described in US-A-5 783 657; In particular polysaccharide alkyl ethers whose alkyl group is C ₁ -C ₂₄ , preferably C ₁ -C ₁₀ , more preferably C ₁ -C ₆ described in EP 898 958, and in particular alkyl (with a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group) Guar gum, such as those described in EP 708 114; Esters of dextrin and fatty acids, preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₄ , especially C ₁₄ -C ₁₈ , for example dextrin palmitate and dextrin myristate; N-acylglutamide, where the acyl group is a linear or branched C ₈ to C ₂₂ alkyl chain; Preferably dialkyl N-acylglutamides such as lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide or N-2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic acid dibutylamide; Hydroxystearic acid; Ethylenediamine stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer (eg sold under the trade name Oleocraft by Croda); And also mixtures thereof.

Preferably, when the composition comprises at least one hydrophobic thickener, this thickener is preferably selected from mineral thickeners.

Clays are silicates containing cations that can be selected from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such products that may be mentioned include clays of the smectite family, such as montmorillonite, hectorite, bentonite, beiderite and saponite, and also families of vermiculite, stebensite and chlorite. Such clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. An organic clay is a clay modified with a chemical compound selected from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

Thus quaternary amines, more specifically C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid ammonium halides, such as hectorite modified with chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (CTFA name: disteadimonium hectorite), eg For example, mention may be made of products sold under the trade names Bentone 38V ^® , Bentone 38V CG or Bentone EW CE by Elementis, or stearalkonium hectorite, such as Bentone 27 V.

Also quaternium-18 bentonite, such as those sold under the trademark Bentone 34 by Elementis, under the trademark Tixogel VP by United Catalyst, and under the Clay Clay 40 by Southern Clay; Stearalkonium bentonite, such as those sold by United Catalyst under the trade name Tixogel LG, and Southern Clay under the trade names Claytone AF and Claytone APA; Or quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonite, such as those sold by Southern Clay under the trade name Claytone HT.

According to a preferred embodiment, the thickener is selected from lipophilic modified clays, especially stearylbenzyldimethylammonium halide, preferably chloride modified or lipophilic modified hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride.

Hydrophobic fumed silica can be obtained by surface modification of silica through a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups, and these groups are probably substituted with hydrophobic groups. The hydrophobic group can be:

-Trimethylsiloxane groups, especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. The silica thus treated is known as silica silylate according to CTFA (6th edition, 1995). These are sold, for example, by Degussa under the reference Aerosil R812® and Cabot under the reference Cab-O-Sil TS-530®;

-Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. The silica thus treated is known as silica dimethyl silylate according to CTFA (6th edition, 1995). These are sold, for example, from Degussa under the reference Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® and from Cabot under the reference Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720®.

Silica airgel is a porous material obtained by replacing (drying) the liquid component of silica gel with air. These are generally synthesized through a sol-gel process in a liquid medium, and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, and the most commonly used is supercritical CO ₂ . This type of drying can prevent pores and material shrinkage. The sol-gel process and various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker CJ and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science, New York: Academic Press, 1990.

Preferably, hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups will be used.

Hydrophobic silica airgels that may be mentioned include, for example, airgels sold by Dow Corning under the trade name VM-2260 (INCI name: silica silylate), the particles having an average size of about 1000 microns and 600 to 800 m 2 / It has a specific surface area per unit mass in the range of g. Also mention may be made of aerogels sold by Cabot as the reference Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.

The elastomeric polyorganosiloxane is generally partially or wholly cross-linked and can be a three-dimensional structure. The elastomeric polyorganosiloxane combined with the fatty phase is generally in the form of a gel composed of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane combined with the fatty phase, contained in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. . These can especially be selected from the crosslinked polymers described in patent application EP-A-0 295 886. According to this patent application, the elastomeric organopolysiloxane is obtained by at least the following addition reaction and crosslinking:

(a) one organopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups per molecule;

(b) one organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms connected to one silicon atom per molecule; And

(c) Platinum-type catalyst.

The hydrophobic thickener may be present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Common additive

Compositions according to the invention are in particular waxes, pasty compounds, additional moisturizers (also known as wetting agents) other than the polyols, antioxidants, fragrances, menthol or menthol derivatives, preservatives, neutralizing agents, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, It may also include any common cosmetic ingredient that can be selected from free-radical scavengers, sequestering agents, salts (magnesium sulfate, sodium chloride), pH adjusting agents, and mixtures thereof.

Needless to say, those skilled in the art will pay attention to selecting optional additional ingredients and/or amounts thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not adversely or substantially adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

Another subject of the invention is a method of makeup and/or care for lips, which consists of applying the composition according to the invention.

The composition according to the present invention can be packaged in any type of device common in the field of fluid cosmetic compositions intended to be applied particularly to lips or faces (eg cheeks).

Thus, a container comprising an applicator equipped with a ball (roll-on), terminated at the end with at least one orifice from which the composition is discharged, or alternatively a felt or flocked tip tip), or a dispensing pen type container, terminated with a brush; It may be envisaged to use a dip coating device, for example a device containing a container containing a brush.

Such devices may or may not be provided with a mechanism for dispensing the composition that allows the composition to be released from the container to the application member or support. It should be noted that this mechanism may advantageously include means for metering the composition.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without limiting its scope.

Example 1

Prepare the compositions whose ingredients are listed in the table below (percentages are expressed in weight of starting material, unless otherwise indicated).

step

Sodium dehydroacetate is dissolved in an amodimethicone emulsion with stirring using a Rayneri blender.

At 50°C, polysorbate 60 is added to the previous mixture with stirring using a Rayneri blender.

Once the mixture is homogeneous, it is allowed to cool while stirring.

Then at about 30° C., Red 33 is introduced into the mixture thus obtained while stirring is continued using a Rayneri blender.

Finally, the thickening polymer (Hostacerin AMPS) is added with stirring until the mixture thickens and a uniform mixture is obtained.

Thereafter, the mixture of silicone resin and isododecane is slowly poured into the previously obtained mixture while increasing the stirring speed, and the whole is allowed to stand with stirring for 10 minutes.

Evaluation of the composition

A non-flowing, stable, creamy emulsion is obtained.

The composition does not flow and is easy to apply to the lips.

A thin, hardly sticky, comfortable membrane that does not migrate into fine wrinkles and does not color the teeth is obtained.

The obtained deposit was fresh, had little stickiness, and had no dry feeling.

In addition, for direct evaluation after application, a glossy or very high deposit is obtained.

It has good color persistence and good gloss persistence on the lips.

Evaluation of stability:

After storage in a closed bottle for 1 week at 20° C., no phase separation was observed, or sedimentation of the particles was not observed if the composition contained particles.

Tack measurement protocol:

The composition is deposited on several stainless steel plates 100 μm deep and leveled as soon as possible. The dish is left to dry for 1 hour at room temperature.

The device used is a TAXT2i texturometer. The clip attached to the device is equipped with an AU4G cylinder with a diameter of 6 mm, and at the end of the cylinder is a soft beige end piece made of synthetic leather, which has the same diameter and a thickness of 2 mm. to be.

The end piece is washed with ethanol between each measurement.

Never measure deposits in the same place multiple times.

The parameters of compression evaluation maintained over time are indicated below:

The tack is characterized by the separation force measured during the pressure drop (pull phase) corresponding to the integral of the curve under the time axis. This force is expressed in positive numbers in joules per square meter.

Example 2

Prepare the compositions whose ingredients are listed in the table below (percentages are expressed in weight of starting material, unless otherwise indicated).

step

Sodium dehydroacetate is dissolved in water with stirring using a Rayneri blender.

At 50°C, polysorbate 60 is added to the previous mixture with stirring using a Rayneri blender.

Once the mixture is homogeneous, it is allowed to cool while stirring.

Then, at about 30° C., Red 33 is introduced into the mixture thus obtained while stirring is continued using a Rayneri blender.

The thickening polymer (Hostacerin AMPS) is added with stirring until the mixture thickens and a uniform mixture is obtained.

Thereafter, the mixture of silicone resin and isododecane is slowly poured into the previously obtained mixture while increasing the stirring speed, and the whole is allowed to stand with stirring for 10 minutes.

Thereafter, a mixture of amino silicone and dimethicone is added slowly over 10 minutes with stirring using a Rayneri blender.

Evaluation of the composition

A non-flowing, stable, creamy emulsion is obtained.

The composition does not flow and is easy to apply to the lips.

A thin, hardly sticky, comfortable membrane that does not migrate into fine wrinkles and does not color the teeth is obtained.

The obtained deposit was fresh, had little stickiness, and had no dry feeling.

The obtained deposits are fresh, initially satin-like and very quickly glossy or very high after application.

It has good color persistence and good gloss persistence on the lips.

Example 3

Prepare the compositions whose ingredients are listed in the table below (percentages are expressed in weight of starting material, unless otherwise indicated).

(*) Preparation of amodimethicone emulsion

450 g of fluid amino silicone (copolymer of dimethylsiloxane-aminomethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane, having a trimethylsilyl end group having an amine number of 7.2 mg of KOH/g and a viscosity of 5600 mPa.s at 25°C). 1 move into the tank; 1800 g of dimethylsiloxane having a trimethylsilyl end group with a viscosity at 25° C. of 61500 mPa·s is added with stirring, and stirring is continued at room temperature for 2 hours.

In a separate tank, 49 g of steareth-6 and 62 g of PEG100 stearate are mixed and heated to 60°C. After maintaining the temperature until a liquid mixture is obtained, 31 g of trideceth-3 and 350 g of trideceth-10 (80% active material) are added. The surfactant mixture has an HLB of 11.25. 80 g of water and 6.2 g of glacial acetic acid were added and stirring was continued until a creamy paste was obtained.

Subsequently, the contents of the second tank (creamy paste) are transferred into a first tank (containing silicon), and the obtained mixture is mixed at room temperature (20°C to 25°C) for 30 minutes. A mixing step is performed to obtain a uniform mixture; This is done at room temperature.

79.6 g of demineralized water is added and the mixture is stirred for 60 minutes.

72.7 g of demineralized water is added and the mixture is stirred for 50 minutes.

197.4 g of demineralized water is added and the mixture is stirred for 5 minutes.

294.3 g of demineralized water is added and the mixture is stirred for 5 minutes.

180 g of demineralized water is added and the mixture is stirred for 5 minutes.

180 g of demineralized water is added and the mixture is stirred for 5 minutes.

197.4 g of demineralized water is added and the mixture is stirred for 5 minutes.

197.4 g of demineralized water is added and the mixture is stirred for 3 minutes.

228.5 g of demineralized water is added and the mixture is stirred for 3 minutes.

Finally, 40.5 g of 2-phenoxyethanol (preservative) is added and the mixture is stirred for 3 minutes.

An oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D ₅₀ of 170 nm is obtained.

How to measure particle size

The particle size of the emulsion is measured using a ZetaSizer device (Malvern, UK), Nano-ZS model based on the Photon Correlation Spectroscopy (PCS) method.

If the evaluation algorithm is "cumulative analysis", the particle size D50 is measured. 0.5 g of the emulsion was placed in a 250 ml beaker, 100 ml of distilled water was added, and the mixture was stirred to obtain an evaluation solution. The evaluation solution is placed in a measuring tank (or cell) and introduced into the measuring device.

Size D ₅₀ corresponds to the particle diameter at 50% of the cumulative distribution.

For example, if D ₅₀ =170 nm, this means that 50% of the particles have a size greater than 170 nm and 50% of the particles have a size less than 170 nm.

Note that the distribution is on a volume basis.

step

Sodium dehydroacetate is dissolved in an amodimethicone emulsion with stirring using a Rayneri blender.

Polysorbate 60 is dissolved using a Rayneri blender and dissolved at 50° C. in the previous mixture, and when dissolved, the mixture is allowed to cool while stirring.

At 30° C., stirring was continued using a Rayneri blender, and Red 33 was added to the previous phase.

The silicone resin and isododecane are then slowly poured into the previously obtained mixture while increasing the stirring speed, and the whole is stirred for 10 minutes.

Evaluation of the composition

A non-flowing, stable, creamy emulsion is obtained.

A thin, hardly sticky, comfortable membrane that does not migrate into fine wrinkles and does not color the teeth is obtained.

The obtained deposits were fresh, glossy or very high, no stickiness, and no dry feeling.

It has good color persistence and good gloss persistence on the lips.

Example 4

Prepare the compositions whose ingredients are listed in the table below (percentages are expressed in weight of starting material, unless otherwise indicated).

step

Sodium dehydroacetate is dissolved in water with stirring using a Rayneri blender.

Polysorbate 60 is dissolved using a Rayneri blender and dissolved at 50° C. in the previous mixture, and when dissolved, the mixture is allowed to cool while stirring.

At 30° C., stirring was continued using a Rayneri blender, and Red 33 was added to the previous phase.

The thickening polymer (Hostacerin AMPS) is then added with stirring until the mixture thickens without any gel mass.

The silicone resin and isododecane are then slowly poured into the previously obtained mixture while increasing the stirring speed, and the whole is stirred for 10 minutes.

Thereafter, amodimethicone and residual surfactant (PEG-8 isosteares and PEG-10 dimethicone) are continuously stirred and poured into the previous mixture, and stirring is continued for 10 minutes.

Evaluation of the composition

A uniform and stable creamy emulsion (without flow) is obtained.

A thin, hardly sticky, comfortable membrane that does not migrate into fine wrinkles and does not color the teeth is obtained.

The obtained deposit was fresh, glossy, non-tacky, and dry.

It has excellent color persistence on the lips and hardly transfers.

Claims (26)

doing:
* At least 10% by weight of water relative to the weight of the composition;
* At least 10% by weight of at least one silicone resin relative to the weight of the composition;
* At least one amino silicone oil;
* Optionally at least one non-volatile silicone oil;
* At least one non-volatile silicone oil, optionally free of (poly)glycerol and (poly)oxyalkylene groups, wherein the oxyalkylene group is C ₂ -C ₃ , non-volatile silicone oil
A cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising:
* When the composition does not contain any non-volatile silicone oil(s), the content of amino silicone oil is at least 4% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. The composition of claim 1, wherein the continuous phase of the emulsion is an aqueous phase. 3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it comprises a water content of 10% to 70% by weight, preferably 15% to 65% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the silicone resin is selected from:
(- MQ type silicone resins, such as, in particular, alkyl _{siloxysilicates of the} formula [(R1) ₃ SiO _1/2 ] _x (SiO _4/2 ) _y (unit MQ), wherein x and y are 50 to 80 Is an integer in the range, and the group R1 represents a hydrocarbon radical (especially alkyl) containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group, preferably containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms A resin such that it is an alkyl group or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group,
-A silicone resin of type T, such as polysilsesquioxane of the formula (RSiO _3/2 ) _x (unit T), wherein _{x is} greater than 100 and the group R contains 1 to 10 carbon atoms An alkyl group, and the polysilsesquioxane can also contain a Si-OH end group,
-MQT type resins, particularly preferably MQT-propyl resins comprising the following units:
-(i) (R1 ₃ SiO _1/2 ) _a
-(ii) (R2 ₂ SiO _2/2 ) _b
-(iii) (R3SiO _3/2 ) _c and
-(iv) (SiO _4/2 ) _d
At this time,
-R1, R2 and R3 are independently hydrocarbon-based radicals containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular alkyl, phenyl, phenylalkyl or hydroxyl groups, preferably alkyl containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms Represents a radical or phenyl group,
-a, b, c and d are mole fractions,
-a is 0.05 to 0.5,
-b is 0 to 0.3,
-c is greater than 0,
-d is 0.05 to 0.6,
-a + b + c + d = 1,
-Provided that the siloxane resin has a propyl group of more than 40 mol% of the group R3). 5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the silicone resin is an MQ type resin, more specifically an alkyl silicate silicate resin, such as a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin. The silicone resin according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the silicone resin is 10% to 45% by weight, preferably 12% to 40% by weight, particularly 15% to 35% by weight, based on the weight of the composition. The composition, characterized in that present in the content. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amino silicone oil(s) is selected from compounds having the formula:
[Formula I]
R _a R'3 _-a -Si-(OSiR ₂ ) _n -(OSiR _b R'2 _-b ) _m -O-Si-R _a R'3 _-a
(In the formula,
R, which may be the same or different, represents a hydrogen atom, hydroxyl, phenyl or C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl group, eg methyl, or C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy group, eg methoxy;
R', which may be the same or different, represents a monovalent radical of the formula -C _q H _2q L, wherein the divalent radical -C _q H _2q -is linear or branched; q represents an integer ranging from 2 to 8, and L is the following group: -NR"-QN(R") ₂ ; _{-N (R ") 2; -N} + (R") 3 A -; NR"-QN ⁺ (R") ₃ A ^- is an optionally quaternized amino group, wherein R" is a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl radical, or a saturated monovalent C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon-based radical, for example For example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical, Q represents a linear or branched divalent group of the formula -C _r H _2r -, r is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably 2 to 4; A- is Cosmetically acceptable anions, in particular halides such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide;
m and n have a total (n + m) in the range of 1 to 2000, more specifically 1 to 1000, and may preferably be at least 50; n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, especially 49 to 149, m is an integer that can represent a number from 1 to 2000, especially 1 to 10);
[Formula II]

(In the formula,
-m and n have a total (n + m) in the range of 1 to 2000, especially 50 to 150, n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, especially 49 to 149, m is 1 to 2000, especially 1 to 10 A number that can represent a number of;
-A represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing 4 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably 4 carbon atoms);
[Formula III]

(Wherein, x'and y'are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is approximately 5000 to 500000). 8. The composition according to claim 7, wherein the non-volatile amino silicone oil(s) is selected from compounds of formula I'corresponding to formula I as follows:
(In the formula,
R, which may be the same or different, represents a hydroxyl or methyl radical;
R', which may be the same or different, represents a monovalent radical of the formula -C _q H _2q L, wherein
_-Divalent -C _q H _2q L is linear or branched; q represents an integer ranging from 2 to 8;
-L is a group -NH-Q-NH ₂ ; ^{_{-NH-QN + H 3 A -}} , and preferably optionally quaternized amino group selected from -NH-Q-NH _2, and;
_-Where Q represents a linear or branched divalent group of the formula -C _r H _2r -, r is an integer ranging from 2 to 4, preferably 2; A ^- represents a halide ion, for example chloride;
-a is 0 and b is 1;
-m and n have a total (n + m) range in particular from 1 to 2000, more specifically from 1 to 1000, preferably at least 50; n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, especially 49 to 149, m is an integer that can represent a number from 1 to 2000, especially 1 to 10). 9. Composition according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the amino silicone oil(s) is selected alone or in admixture from compounds having the formula:
[Formula 1]

(Wherein, m and n in the total (n + m) range from 1 to 2000, especially 50 to 150, n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, especially 49 to 149, m is 1 to 2000, in particular Is an integer that can represent a number from 1 to 10);
[Formula 2]

(In the formula,
-m and n have a total (n + m) in the range of 1 to 1000, especially 50 to 250, more specifically 100 to 200; n can represent a number from 0 to 999, especially 49 to 249, more specifically 125 to 175, m is a number from 1 to 1000, especially 1 to 10, more specifically 1 to 5 Is a number;
-R and R', which may be the same or different, represent hydroxyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radicals, preferably methoxy, and at least one of the radicals R or R'represents an alkoxy radical);
[Formula 3]

(In the formula,
-m and n have a total (m + n) in the range of 1 to 1000, in particular 50 to 350, more specifically 150 to 250; m can represent a number from 0 to 999, in particular 49 to 349, more specifically from 159 to 239, and n can represent a number from 1 to 1000, especially 1 to 10, more specifically 1 to 5 Is a number;
-Different R represents hydroxyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy, at least one of the radicals represents an alkoxy radical);
[Formula 4]

(In the formula,
-m and n have a total (n + m) in the range of 1 to 2000, especially 50 to 150, n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, especially 49 to 149, m is 1 to 2000, especially 1 to 10 A number that can represent a number of;
-A preferably represents a linear, divalent -C _q H _2q -, where q represents an integer ranging from 4 to 8, preferably equal to 4.). The composition of any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition is free of any non-volatile silicone oil(s), has no (poly)glycerol and (poly)oxyalkylene groups, and the oxyalkylene unit is C _2. In the case of -C ₃ , the content of amino silicone oil(s) is 4% to 45% by weight, preferably 6% to 40% by weight, more specifically 8% to 35% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Composition characterized in that the range. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil free of (poly)glycerol and (poly)oxyalkylene groups and the oxyalkylene unit is C ₂ -C ₃ . In the case, the composition characterized in that the content of the non-volatile amino silicone oil(s) is 1% to 15% by weight, preferably 2% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. The total content of amino amino oil(s) and non-volatile silicone oil(s) according to any one of claims 1 to 11, if included in the composition, is 4% to 45% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. %. The at least one ratio according to any one of claims 1 to 12, which is preferably selected from non-phenyl nonvolatile silicone oils, phenyl nonvolatile silicone oils optionally carrying dimethicone fragments, and mixtures thereof. A composition comprising volatile silicone oil. 14. The method of claim 13, wherein the non-volatile silicone oil(s) is polydimethylsiloxane; From a phenyl non-volatile silicone oil bearing at least one dimethicone fragment, and also mixtures thereof; In particular, a composition characterized by being selected from polydimethylsiloxane, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone and diphenyl dimethicone, and also mixtures thereof. 15. Composition according to claim 13 or 14, characterized in that the content of the non-volatile silicone oil(s) represents 2% to 35% by weight, preferably 8% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. . 16. The method of any one of claims 1 to 15, comprising at least volatile hydrocarbon-based or silicone oil(s); Preferably the content of volatile hydrocarbon-based or silicone oil(s) is less than 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, more specifically 0.5% by weight to A composition characterized by being in the range of 20% by weight. 17. The composition of claim 16, wherein the content of volatile oil(s) is such that the silicone resin/volatile oil(s) weight ratio is greater than 0.5, more specifically greater than 1, preferably greater than 1. 18. The composition of claim 17, wherein the composition comprises at least one polar or non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, preferably in an amount of 2% to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 18, comprising at least one surfactant, preferably a nonionic or anionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant, or mixtures thereof, preferably at least one nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant. Composition comprising a. 20. The method of claim 19, wherein the nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant(s) is an alkyl and polyalkyl ester of poly(ethylene oxide), an alkyl and polyalkyl ether of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally polyoxyethylenated, Alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally polyoxyethylenated, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, especially alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, water Alkyl and polyalkyl esters of cross, optionally polyoxyethylenated, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylenated, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, and mixtures thereof; Preferably poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl esters, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, sorbitan Polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl and polyalkyl esters, and polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol Alkyl and polyalkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof; Advantageously a composition characterized in that the nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant(s) has an HLB (hydrophilic/lipophilic balance) of 8 or more. The compound of claim 19, wherein the anionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant(s) is:
* Alkyl ether sulfates,
* Salts of fatty acids, especially C ₈ -C ₂₀ fatty acids, especially monocarboxylic acids;
* Carboxylates such as salts of N-acylamino acids, alkyl glycol carboxylates, carboxylate ethers and amido ether carboxylates,
* Amino acid salts, especially sarcosinate, alaninate, glutamate, aspartate and glycinate,
* Sulfonates, for example alpha-olefin sulfonates, especially alkanolamines or alkali metal salts of dodecylbenzenesulfonate,
* Isethionates, for example acyl isethionate,
* Taurates, for example N-acyl methyl taurate, especially N-acyl methyl taurate,
* Sulfosuccinates, for example alkylsulfosuccinates, especially dioctyl sulfosuccinate salts,
* Alkyl sulfoacetate,
* Phosphate and alkyl phosphate,
* Polypeptides, for example obtained by condensation of fatty chains on cereals, especially wheat and oat amino acids,
* And mixtures thereof
Is selected from alkali metals such as salts of sodium or potassium, or alternatively primary or secondary amines or alkanolamines, especially C ₂ -C ₄ alkanolamines,
* These compounds are 8 to 30 in their longest saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon chain, optionally comprising up to 20 C ₂ -C ₃ oxyalkylene units, preferably oxyethylene units A composition comprising at least one group comprising two carbon atoms. 22. The method according to any one of claims 19 to 21, characterized in that the content of surfactant(s) represents 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Composition. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 22, preferably a homopolymer or copolymer of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or a salt thereof and an ester thereof; Copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide; Homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic amidopropanesulfonic acid; Anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; Cellulose polymers; Vinyl polymers; Optionally modified polymers of natural origin; Alginate and carrageenan; A composition comprising at least one hydrophilic thickening polymer selected from mucus polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to claim 23, wherein the content of the hydrophilic thickener is 0.01% to 1.5% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 1% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. 25. The method of any one of claims 1 to 24, characterized in that it comprises at least one dye selected from at least one dye, more specifically a pigment, a pearlescent agent, a water-soluble dye and a fat-soluble dye, and mixtures thereof. Composition. A method of makeup and/or care for keratin substances, for example skin, lips, preferably lips, comprising the step of applying the composition according to claim 1.