KR20200021849A - Oil-in-water type cosmetic composition similar to skin stratum corneum and method for manafacturing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a skin stratum corneum-mimicking oil-in-water cosmetic composition composed of 1-30 wt% of glycerin, 0.01-10 wt% of hyaluronic acid, 0.01-2 wt% of ceramide, 1-10 wt% of squalane, 0.5-3 wt% of bihenyl alcohol, 1-10 wt% of ester, 1-5 wt% of triglyceride and 30-80 wt% of water. The present invention relates to a manufacturing method thereof. According to the present invention, the formulation stability is excellent without using a surfactant, no irritation occurs on the skin by mimicking a structure and composition of the stratum corneum in the skin, and applicability is also excellent when applied to the skin. In addition, the cosmetic composition ensures excellent long-term moisture retention ability and instant moisture content increasing ability by fortifying skin barrier, provides comfort softening effects to the skin, and exhibits excellent applicability when applied to the skin.

Description

Oil-in-water type cosmetic composition similar to skin stratum corneum and method for manafacturing the same}

The present invention relates to a skin stratum corneum-like oil-in-water cosmetic composition and a method for producing the same, more particularly by constituting the structure and composition ratio of the skin stratum corneum with components present in the human skin while excluding components such as surfactants. To improve the stability of the formulation, and improve the moisturizing layer of the stratum corneum-like oil-in-water cosmetic composition and a method for producing the same.

In general, a substance having a hydrophilic water retention capability called a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) exists in the stratum corneum layer, which helps the skin to maintain flexibility and of course maintain proper moisture.

When the moisture content of the stratum corneum is less than 10%, the skin becomes rough, the body loses its protective function, and aging occurs. The skin is dried because the moisture content of the stratum corneum layer is less than that of normal skin.

In addition, due to changes in the environment, changes in life patterns, various stresses and environmental pollution caused by social life, frequent facial washing due to makeup habits and natural skin aging due to age increase, moisture in the stratum corneum decreases and the skin becomes dry. , The surface becomes rough, the skin loses its luster, and it appears dull, and the recent frequent lifestyle activities of cooling and heating facilities often make the skin dry. Due to the problem of skin moisturizing is getting more and more important.

As a technique related to a conventional moisturizer, "Korean skin moisturizing cosmetic composition" of Korean Patent Publication No. 10-2017-0019305 is a moisturizer including glycerin, butylene glycol and hydroxyethyl urea; Oils including camellia oil, jojoba seed oil and argan tree kernel tree kernel oil; And extracts including chia seed extract, basil extract, oat kernel kernel extract, sunflower seed extract, and western songak extract, wherein the western songak extract is characterized in that the leaves and stem extracts of western songak. Wherein the composition comprises a surfactant of cetearylalcohol, cetearylolivate, stearic acid, cetylalcohol, glycerylstearate, fiji-40stearate and sorbitan oleate.

However, in addition to the prior art, the existing moisturizers occur a lot of side effects due to the chemical components used to improve the stability and feel of the formulation, the consumer's concern about chemical components is increasing day by day. In particular, components such as surfactants used to maintain the formulation of cosmetics have the problem of increasing the dryness and sensitivity of the skin in the long term due to side effects that disturb or destroy the skin barrier.

In order to solve the problems of the prior art as described above, the present invention excludes components such as surfactants, by making the structure and composition ratio of the stratum corneum layer similar to the components present in the skin of the human body, thereby increasing the stability of the formulation The purpose is to improve the moisturizing power and improve the safety of the skin to improve the side effects of the skin.

Other objects of the present invention will be readily understood through the following description of the embodiments.

In order to achieve the above object, according to one aspect of the present invention, glycerin 1-30 wt%, hyaluronic acid 0.01-10 wt%, ceramide 0.01-2 wt%, squalane 1-10 wt%, bihenyl alcohol There is provided a skin stratum corneum-like oil-in-water cosmetic composition mixed with 0.5 to 3 wt%, ester 1 to 10 wt%, triglyceride 1 to 5 wt%, and water 30 to 80 wt%.

The glycerin and the hyaluronic acid correspond to NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), the ceramide, the squalane, the bihenyl alcohol, the ester and the triglyceride correspond to a lipid, the water is distilled water, the NMF The lipid and the distilled water may be mixed in a weight ratio of 30: 8 to 12:55 to 65.

The cosmetic composition may have a particle size of 10 ~ 100 ㎛.

According to another aspect of the invention, the step of preparing the first mixture having a temperature of 50 ~ 70 ℃ by heating by measuring the glycerin, the hyaluronic acid and the water by mixing with a mixer; Preparing a second mixture by measuring the ceramide, the squalane, the bihenyl alcohol, the ester, and the triglyceride by mixing with a mixer; And heating the second mixture to a temperature of 50 to 70 ° C., and then dispersing the mixture in the first mixture using a homogenizer.

Dispersing the second mixture in the first mixture, the RMP of the homogenizer to 500 ~ 1,000, may be dispersed for 5 to 10 minutes.

According to the skin stratum corneum simulated oil-in-water cosmetic composition and a preparation method thereof according to the present invention, excellent formulation stability without using a surfactant, mimics the structure and composition of the stratum corneum, there is no irritation to the skin, the feeling of use when applying the skin It is excellent, enhances skin barrier, improves instant moisture content and long-term moisturizing lasting, and provides comfortable softness to skin, so it is excellent when applied to skin.

1 is a flow chart illustrating a method for preparing a skin stratum corneum-like oil-in-water cosmetic composition according to an embodiment of the present invention.

As the inventive concept allows for various changes and numerous embodiments, particular embodiments will be illustrated in the drawings and described in detail in the written description. However, this is not intended to limit the present invention to specific embodiments, but should be understood in a way that includes all changes, equivalents, and substitutes included in the spirit and scope of the present invention, and may be modified in various other forms. It is to be understood that the scope of the present invention is not limited to the following examples.

Hereinafter, exemplary embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings, and like reference numerals denote the same or corresponding elements regardless of reference numerals, and redundant description thereof will be omitted.

Skin stratum corneum simulated oil-in-water cosmetic composition according to an embodiment of the present invention is glycerin 1-30 wt%, hyaluronic acid 0.01-10 wt%, ceramide 0.01-2 wt%, squalane 1-10 wt%, bihenyl alcohol 0.5- 3 wt%, ester 1-10 wt%, triglyceride 1-5 wt% and water 30-80 wt%. Here, in the above-mentioned mixing ratio, glycerin is less than 1 wt%, the effect of increasing the water content of the skin is insignificant, and when it is more than 30 wt%, the stickiness at the time of use increases, and customer usability is inhibited, and hyaluronic acid is 0.01 wt%. If it is less than%, the increase in moisture content of the skin is insignificant, and if it is more than 10 wt%, stickiness in use is increased, and customer usability is inhibited. If the ceramide is less than 0.01 wt%, the moisture barrier recovery ability is insignificant, If it is more than 2 wt%, the formulation stability is poor by self-gelling, and if the squalane is less than 1 wt%, the moisture barrier recovery ability is insignificant, and if it is more than 10 wt%, the formulation stability is worsened due to an increase in the oil phase. Bihenyl alcohol has a poor formulation stability when less than 0.5 wt%, and increases the hardness of more than 3 wt%, which hinders customer usability. If it is less than wt%, the moisture barrier recovery ability is insignificant, and if it is more than 10 wt%, the formulation stability is poor due to the increase of the oil phase, and if the triglyceride is less than 1 wt%, the moisture barrier recovery ability is insignificant, and 5 If it is more than wt%, the stability of the formulation becomes poor.

Glycerin and hyaluronic acid may correspond to Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), ceramide, squalane, bihenyl alcohol, ester and triglyceride may correspond to lipids, and water may be used as distilled water. At this time, NMF, lipids and distilled water may be mixed in a weight ratio of 30: 8-12: 55-65, for example 30:10:60. Therefore, the weight ratio makes the formulation stability better without using a surfactant and mimics the structure and composition of the stratum corneum of the skin so that there is no irritation on the skin.

The cosmetic composition may have a particle size of 10 ~ 100 ㎛. Because of this, it is possible to minimize the RPM of the mixer, such as a homomixer to be manufactured. While the particle size of the conventional oil-in-water cosmetic is 1 ~ 5 ㎛, the particle size of the present invention has a particle size of 10 ~ 100 ㎛, rather a formulation is not formed when a high pressure shear force, such a relatively Due to the formation of large particles has the advantage that the usability is excellent.

Referring to the manufacturing method for the skin stratum corneum simulated oil-in-water cosmetic composition according to an embodiment of the present invention.

1 is a flow chart illustrating a method for preparing a skin stratum corneum-like oil-in-water cosmetic composition according to an embodiment of the present invention.

Referring to FIG. 1, glycerin, hyaluronic acid and water are measured and uniformly mixed in a mixer such as a still mixer to prepare a first mixture having a temperature of 70 ° C. or lower, such as 50 to 70 ° C., by heating. (S11).

Ceramide, squalane, bihenyl alcohol, ester, and triglycerides are measured and uniformly mixed with a mixer to prepare a second mixture (S12).

Then, the second mixture is heated to a temperature of 50 ~ 70 ℃, and then uniformly dispersed in the first mixture using a homogenizer (Homogenizer) (S13). At this time, the RMP of the homogenizer may be dispersed at a relatively low time of 500 to 1,000 in a relatively short time for 5 to 10 minutes. If the particle size of a conventional oil-in-water cosmetic is 1 ~ 5 ㎛, the present invention can have a particle of 10 ~ 100 ㎛ on average, rather a formulation is not formed when a high pressure shear force, forming a relatively large particles By doing so, there is an advantage that the user feels better.

<Skin evaporation inhibiting effect>

In Example 1 according to the present invention having the components as shown in Table 1 below and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 for comparison thereto, the effect of inhibiting moisture evaporation of the skin was tested.

ingredient Example 1
(Unit; wt%) Comparative Example 1
(Unit; wt%) Comparative Example 2
(Unit; wt%) Comparative Example 3
(Unit; wt%) glycerin 30 50 0 0 Hyaluronic acid 0.1 0 0 0 Ceramide 0.1 0 0 0 Squalane 10 0 30 100 Bihenyl alcohol 2 0 0 0 Ester One 0 0 0 Triglycerides One 0 0 0 Distilled water 55.8 50 70 0

division ^{TEWL (g / m -2 · h} -1) △ TEWL (%) Before kill 1 hour after treatment Example 1 11.87 5.08 57.20 Comparative Example 1 10.89 9.62 11.66 Comparative Example 2 11.23 10.24 8.82 Comparative Example 3 10.65 9.35 12.21

According to Table 2, in Example 1 according to the present invention, compared to Comparative Examples 1 to 3, by suppressing the discharge of water, by minimizing the transepidermal water loss (TEWL), it can be minimized dehydration Able to know.

Human epidermal lipids correspond to 10-30% of the total volume of the stratum corneum. There are 100 to 200 times more material filling between cells than in other tissues. These are intercellular lipids that hold water. The stratum corneum is an effective permeable barrier and has two important functions. First of all, the stratum corneum prevents the invasion of microorganisms, chemicals and allergens. It also minimizes transepidermal water loss (TEWL) so that our bodies are not dehydrated. Thus, when the stratum corneum is removed, the skin's moisture, along with the epidermal lipids, is better drained out (increased in TEWL), and other substances such as toxins and allergens are easily penetrated inward. The ability to store water in the skin depends largely on the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum. Keratin protein structure of keratinocytes contain NMF, such as amino acids, and affects the skin's ability to bind water.

In order to maintain normal moisture of 30% in these stratum corneum, three components of sebum, NMF and intercellular lipids must be maintained normally. If any of sebum, NMF, and intercellular lipids are lowered, that is, they do not have a healthy keratinous cycle, the skin's ability to retain water also decreases, causing the skin to dry and dehydrate. In addition, the cause of drying of the skin that occurs a lot in winter can be found in temperature and humidity. First, the keratinous surface dries because the amount of sebum secreted decreases as the temperature decreases. Sebum secretion increases proportionally with temperature in summer. On the contrary, it is lower in winter. Second, because the atmospheric humidity is lowered, it can be considered that the moisture that evaporates into the air from the stratum corneum increases. That is, the amount of TEWL increases, and conversely, the amount of moisture in the stratum corneum itself decreases.

Skin irritation test

Skin irritation test was carried out with respect to Example 2 of the present invention having the components as shown in Table 3 below and Comparative Examples 4 and 5 for comparison thereto.

ingredient Content (wt%) Example 2 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 glycerin 30 30 30 Hyaluronic acid 0.05 0.05 0.05 Ceramide 0.1 0.1 3 Squalane 8 0 8 Bihenyl alcohol 2 2 2 Ester 2 2 0 Triglycerides One 7 One Distilled water 56.85 55.85 54.95 PEG-100 Stearate 0 3 0 Lecithin 0 0 One

For the skin irritation test, 32 subjects were subjected to a skin patch test using a Finn Chamber. The back of the test subject was wiped with 70% ethanol and dried, and 20 μL of the test substance was dropped in a Finn Chamber having a diameter of 8 mm and attached to the test site and fixed. The patch was attached for 24 hours, and the degree of stimulation was observed after removing the patch for 30 minutes, 24 hours, and the results are shown in Table 4 below.

Sample Example 2 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Stimulus score 0 1.02 0.6

Here, the stimulation score is 0 for no irritation, 0.5 for faint light erythema, 1 for clear but weak erythema or edema, 2 for clear erythema, papule, vesicle, severe erythema and 3 for algebraic guns. As shown in Table 3, it can be seen that Example 2 of the present invention has a significantly lower stimulus score than Comparative Examples 4 and 5.

<Formulation stability test>

Formulation stability test was carried out for Example 2 and Comparative Examples 4 and 5 according to the present invention having the same components as in Table 3 above.

division Example 2 Comparative Example 4 Comparative Example 5 Room temperature stability stability stability 40 ℃ stability stability Separation

Formulations of Examples 2, Comparative Examples 4 and 5 were stored in a thermostat and observed stability change over 3 months. As a result, referring to Table 5, in Comparative Example 4 using a surfactant commonly used in oil-in-water cosmetics, it is stable, but causes skin irritation, and in Comparative Example 5 using a natural surfactant, the stimulation is weak. However, the stability of the formulation was not good. On the other hand, in Example 2 according to the present invention, the stability of the formulation was excellent without irritation.

Therefore, according to the skin stratum corneum simulated oil-in-water cosmetic composition and the preparation method thereof according to the present invention as described above, excellent formulation stability without the use of a surfactant, mimics the structure and composition of the stratum corneum, there is no irritation to the skin When using the skin, make it feel good.

In addition, according to the present invention, by enhancing the skin barrier to improve the immediate moisture content and long-term moisturizing persistence, it provides a comfortable softness to the skin is excellent in feeling when applied to the skin.

As described above with reference to the accompanying drawings, the present invention, of course, various modifications and variations can be made within the scope without departing from the spirit of the present invention. Therefore, the scope of the present invention should not be limited to the described embodiments, but should be defined by the claims below and equivalents thereof.

Claims (5)

Glycerin 1-30 wt%, Hyaluronic acid 0.01-10 wt%, Ceramide 0.01-2 wt%, Squalane 1-10 wt%, Bihenyl alcohol 0.5-3 wt%, Esters 1-10 wt%, Triglycerides 1-5 A stratum corneum-like simulated oil-in-water cosmetic composition mixed with wt% and 30-80 wt% of water. The method according to claim 1,
The glycerin and the hyaluronic acid,
Corresponds to NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor),
The ceramide, the squalane, the bihenyl alcohol, the ester and the triglyceride correspond to a lipid,
The water is
Distilled water,
The NMF, the lipid and the distilled water,
The skin stratum corneum-like oil-in-water cosmetic composition mixed with the weight ratio of 30: 8-12: 55-65. The method according to claim 1,
The cosmetic composition,
Skin stratum corneum-like oil-in-water cosmetic composition having particles of 10-100 μm in size. As a manufacturing method of the skin stratum corneum-like oil-in-water cosmetic composition of any one of Claims 1-3,
Preparing a first mixture having a temperature of 50 to 70 ° C. by heating by measuring the glycerin, the hyaluronic acid and the water and mixing the mixture with a mixer;
Preparing a second mixture by measuring the ceramide, the squalane, the bihenyl alcohol, the ester, and the triglyceride by mixing with a mixer; And
Heating the second mixture to a temperature of 50-70 ° C., and then dispersing the second mixture in the first mixture using a homogenizer;
A method of producing a skin stratum corneum-like oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprising a. The method according to claim 4,
Dispersing the second mixture in the first mixture,
RMP of the homogeneous group to 500 to 1,000, to disperse for 5 to 10 minutes, skin stratum corneum simulated oil-in-water cosmetic composition manufacturing method.

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