KR20160101913A - Transparent composition containing oil and microcapsules - Google Patents

Abstract

A transparent composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion containing microcapsules comprising an emissive colorant (s). The composition contains at least one lipid phase, at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one microcapsule comprising the releasing colorant (s), and water. The composition provides color change to the consumer during shearing, while providing high cosmetic properties such as flexibility and high smoothness.

Description

TRANSPARENT COMPOSITION CONTAINING OIL AND MICROCAPSULES <br> <br> <br> Patents - stay tuned to the technology TRANSPARENT COMPOSITION CONTAINING OIL AND MICROCAPSULES

The present invention relates to compositions containing oils and microcapsules. More specifically, the present invention relates to a composition that is a micro- or nano-emulsion containing microcapsules comprising an emissive colorant.

Cosmetic compositions are typically used to mask skin imperfections such as redness and / or marks as well as providing aesthetic color to the skin. Many formulations have been developed to date. In addition, there is increasing interest in cosmetic articles that provide color changes in response to external motions such as shear forces.

In general, this object is achieved by including a microencapsulated colorant in the composition, wherein upon application to the skin, the composition provides a color change. More particularly, the change in hue is provided by the colorant-containing microcapsules, which, upon rupture by application of a mechanical force, release the entrapped colorant into the composition and change its color. The mechanical action, such as rubbing, expands the topical composition and promotes its penetration into the skin. The instant color change of the composition provides a visual aesthetic effect.

It has been known in the art to incorporate pigments into cosmetic compositions, especially skin care or skin cosmetic compositions containing large amounts of water. Such a composition has a neat sensory effect upon application and is expected to provide an appropriate hue to the skin. In addition, their ability to contain large amounts of active ingredient is highly appreciated.

Such neat sensory and optical effects are required, for example, in "quick break type" formulations, facial serums, eye-only serums and foundations.

However, the introduction of a large amount of pigment can exacerbate the refreshing effect: the pigment tends to absorb water, so that the composition dries more quickly, which makes the composition more difficult to apply uniformly to the skin.

As a result, the color of such compositions after application to the skin does not reach the expectations that were expected with regard to uniformity. In addition, once the composition forms a dry film on the skin, the problem can not always be solved.

In providing transparent cosmetics, the following techniques have been used so far. The use of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions is a practice known in the cosmetic or dermatological field. Such an emulsion is composed of an oil phase (or lipophilic phase) dispersed in an aqueous phase and has an external aqueous phase. Therefore, the products are more refreshing to use because of the freshness they provide. However, they are relatively poor in stability when large amounts of oil are present. It is advantageous to have a large amount of oil in some applications, since oils provide comfort to the skin, provide nutrition and, in addition, they can remove makeup from the skin when they have cosmetic-removing properties.

It is also advantageous to have a micro emulsion, i.e. a micro emulsion, i.e. an emulsion in the form of a droplet in which the oil phase is very small, i.e. less than 4 microns in size, has a pleasant cosmetic feel and is generally more stable than a rough emulsion.

Such emulsions can in particular be prepared by phase inversion temperature techniques (PIT emulsions), wherein the average size of the small spheres constituting the oil phase is within a given limit, i.e. 0.1 to 4 μm (100 nm to 4000 nm). The principle of phase inversion temperature (or PIT) emulsification is well known to those skilled in the theoretical aspects; (1968, K. Shinoda (J. Chem. Soc. Jpn., 1968, 89, 435). The emulsification technique has been shown to make it possible to obtain stable microemulsions (K. Shinoda and H. Saito, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 1969, 30, 258). The technique has been applied to cosmetics in early 1972 by Mitsui et al. ("Application of the phase-inversion-temperature method to the emulsification of cosmetics "; T. Mitsui, Y. Machida and F. Harusawa, American. , 1972, 87, 33).

The principle of the technique is as follows: The O / W emulsion (introduced on the oil phase of the aqueous phase) has a temperature higher than the phase reversal temperature of the system, i.e. the equilibrium between the hydrophilic and lipophilic properties of the emulsifier (s) At the resulting temperature; At higher temperatures, i.e. higher than the phase inversion temperature (> PIT), the emulsion is present in a water-in-oil type and upon cooling, the emulsion reverses at the phase inversion temperature to become an oil-in-water type emulsion, I go first. The process generally makes it possible to easily obtain an emulsion having a diameter of less than 4 mu m. A commonly used emulsified surfactant of the oil-in-water type has a HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) of 8 to 18. Due to their amphiphilic structure, the emulsifier is located at the oil / water phase interface and thus stabilizes the dispersed oil droplets.

However, such emulsions tend to destabilize, making it difficult to produce fine O / W emulsions containing large amounts of oil phase, since such destabilization causes fusion and separation of the aqueous and oil phases with the release of oil . To improve the stability of such an emulsion, the concentration of the emulsifying agent can be increased; High emulsifier concentrations can cause problems with rough, sticky or sticky feel and boredom in the skin, eyes and scalp.

In particular, microemulsions such as O / W nano- or micro-emulsions are of special interest in cosmetic articles due to their transparent or slightly translucent appearance.

For example, JP-A-H09-110635 discloses a micro-emulsion is formed using a combination of poly glyceryl fatty acid esters and C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ 2- hydroxy fatty acid as a surface active agent. In addition, JP-A-H11-71256 discloses a micro-emulsion formed using a combination of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and betaine.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a composition containing a large amount of oil having a color change effect, having a high level of cosmetic properties acceptable to a large number of consumers, and having a transparent or slightly translucent, preferably transparent, .

This object of the present invention is achieved by a process for the preparation of a composition comprising (a) at least one lipophilic phase, (b) at least one nonionic surfactant, (c) at least one microcapsule containing an emissive colorant (s) and (d) - or &lt; / RTI &gt; micro-emulsions.

A drawing of an intention to illustrate the invention in a non-limiting manner, illustrating an embodiment of a microcapsule introduced into a cosmetic composition according to the present invention, is described below.
FIG. 1 is a schematic view illustrating a typical structure of a color-changing microcapsule as a first embodiment of the present invention, in which A1 represents a core, and B1, C1, D1 and E1 are different layers concentrically surrounding the core.
2 is a schematic view of the first embodiment of the microcapsules showing the core-shell structure of the color-changing microcapsule B used in Example 1 described below.
3 is a schematic view illustrating a typical structure of a microcapsule according to a second embodiment of the present invention, in which A2 indicates a colored core, B2, C2, D2 and E2 are different layers concentrically surrounding the core A2, At least one of the layers is essential, preferably comprising titanium dioxide particles, the remainder being optional.
4 is of three layers: a colored core-is a schematic view showing the shell structure inside the colored layer of the microcapsules containing the TiO ₂ particle layer a second embodiment the color-change of the microcapsule core. The pigment core contained in the right particle of Fig. 4 corresponds to the left particle, which includes a pigment / lecithin layer (inner coloring layer) and an inner pigment powder (inner coloring core).
Figure 5 is two layers: the above comprising a colored core particle layer ₂ -TiO microcapsules second embodiment the color-change in the microcapsule core-is a schematic view showing the shell structure.

Since the composition of the present invention may be transparent or slightly translucent, the composition may preferably be used in lotions and the like. Because the dispersed phase is finely dispersed, the composition of the present invention can provide not only a smooth texture but also smoothness. In addition, because the compositions of the present invention contain microcapsules comprising the emissive colorant (s), the compositions provide a sense of color change simultaneously upon shearing or pressure application by the consumer.

The compositions of the present invention have a dispersed phase with a smaller diameter due to the presence of one or more microcapsules comprising the emissive colorant (s). Thus, the composition may be in the form of a transparent or slightly translucent nano- or micro-emulsion.

Hereinafter, the composition of the present invention will be described in more detail.

1-1. Local phase

The compositions of the present invention comprise one or more fat phases, predominantly consisting of oils. As used herein, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance in liquid form at room temperature (25 DEG C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Such oils commonly used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination. Such oils are volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile. The oil may be polar or apolar oil.

The oils may be synthetic or natural-derived oils, such as vegetable oils and animal oils.

Vegetable oils include vegetable oils such as linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sandalwood oil, castor oil, safflower seed oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, And peanut oil may be included.

Animal oils may include, for example, squalene and squalane.

The oil may be a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or a fluoro oil. Hydrocarbon oils may include alkane oils, ester oils, ether oils, and triglyceride oils.

Ester oil is preferably a liquid ester of a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric acid is added, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monohydric alcohol or polyhydric alcohol , And the total carbon number of the ester is 10 or more. Preferably, in the case of an ester of a monohydric alcohol, at least one of an alcohol moiety and an acid moiety derived from an ester is branched. Among the monoesters of mono and monohydric alcohols, especially ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, iso Cetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate. Esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic acids or tricarboxylic acids with C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols, and monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-saccharides C ₄ -C ₂₆ dihydroxy, Esters of trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohol may also be used. Specifically, the following may be mentioned: diethyl sebacate; Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; Diisopropyl sebacate; Bis (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; Diisopropyl adipate; Di-n-propyl adipate; Dioctyl adipate; Bis (2-ethylhexyl) adipate; Diisostearyl adipate; Bis (2-ethylhexyl) maleate; Triisopropyl citrate; Triisocetyl citrate; Triisostearyl citrate; Glyceryl triaclate; Glyceryl trioctanoate; Trioctyldodecyl citrate; Trioleyl citrate; Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; Diethylene glycol diisononanoate. As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids can be used. The term "sugar" refers to an oxygen-containing hydrocarbon-based compound containing four or more carbon atoms and containing multiple alcohol functionalities in the presence or absence of an aldehyde or ketone functionality. Such sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, For example methyl derivatives, such as methyl glucose. The sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with the sugars described above in particular. When they are unsaturated, such compounds may have 1 to 3 conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds. The esters may also be selected from the group consisting of monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters. These esters include, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate and arachidonate, Especially oleyl palmitate, oleo stearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate. More particularly, mono esters and diesters, and in particular sucrose, glucose or methyl glucose monooleate or diolates, stearates, behenates, oleoformates, linoleates, linoleinates and oleoresins Rate. An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the trade name Glucate ^® by Amerchol, which is methyl glucoside diolate. Examples of preferred ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentano Ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, , Ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri (2-ethylhexanoate) Trityl tetra (2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of the triglycerides include artificial triglycerides such as glyceryl triramate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trinolinate, glyceryl tribolate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri ( Caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri (caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

As the silicone oil, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; Cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; And mixtures thereof. Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group. The silicone oil may also be organically modified. Organically modified silicone which may be used in accordance with the present invention is as defined above and is a silicone oil comprising at least one organic functional group attached through a hydrocarbon group in its structure. Organopolysiloxanes are more fully defined in Walter Noll ' s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They are volatile or non-volatile. Volatile or nonvolatile silicone oils such as volatile or nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxane (cyclomethicone), including liquid or paste and linear or cyclic chains at ambient temperature, such as, for example, Cyclohexasiloxane; Polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms which are protruded or are present at the ends of the silicon chain; Phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicate and polymethylphenylsiloxane can be used have.

The alkane oil may be selected from the following:

C ₆ -C ₁₆ lower alkanes, linear or branched, optionally annular. Examples which may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; And

Linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petrolatum, polydecene and hydrogenated polyisobutene, for example Parleam ^® and squalane.

Preferably alkane oils include linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc .; Hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicoic acid, and decene / butene copolymers; And mixtures thereof. Preferably, the oil may be selected from hydrocarbon oils in liquid form at room temperature under atmospheric pressure.

Preferably, an ester oil (e.g. isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate and ethylhexyl palmitate) having short hydrocarbon chain (s) (C ₁ -C ₁₂ ), hydrocarbons Oils such as isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane, branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohol (C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ ) type oils such as octyldodecanol, oleyl alcohol and ether oils, For example, an oil selected from dicaprylyl ether has a low molecular weight of, for example, less than 700 g / mol.

The oil may be selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, animal oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils selected from the group consisting of ester oils, ether oils, alkane oils and triglycerides .

The amount of the oil in the composition of the present invention is not limited and is in the range of 0.1 wt% to 50 wt%, preferably 0.5 wt% to 40 wt%, more preferably 5 wt% to 30 wt% Lt; / RTI &gt;

1-2. Nonionic surfactant

The compositions of the present invention contain at least one nonionic surfactant. Although a single kind of nonionic surfactant can be used, two or more different kinds of nonionic surfactants can be used in combination.

The nonionic surfactant is not limited, but may have an HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) value of 8.0 to 14.0, preferably 9.0 to 13.5, more preferably 10.0 to 13.0. When two or more nonionic surfactants are used, the HLB value is determined as the weighted average of the HLB values of all nonionic surfactants.

Nonionic surfactants can be selected from the following:

(1) polyethylene glycols comprising from 1 to 60 ethylene oxide units, sorbitan, glycerol comprising from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerols comprising from 2 to 12 glycerol units, and at least one saturated or unsaturated, Surfactant selected from esters of one or more polyols selected from the group formed by one or more fatty acids comprising linear or branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl chains,

(2) a fatty acid or fatty alcohol, a mixed ester of a carboxylic acid and glycerol,

(3) fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars,

(4) a surfactant which is solid at a temperature of 45 DEG C or lower, selected from fatty esters of glycerol, fatty esters of sorbitan and oxyethylenated fatty esters of sorbitan, ethoxylated fatty ethers and ethoxylated fatty esters,

(5) a block copolymer of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B), and

(6) Silicon surfactant.

The surfactant (1), which is a fluid at a temperature of 45 캜 or less, may in particular be:

Isostearate of polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 400, sold by Unichema under the tradename PEG 400;

- diglyceryl isostearate sold by Solvay;

- Glyceryl laurate sold by Solvay, containing two glycerol units;

- Sorbitan oleate sold under the trade name Span 80 by ICI;

Sorbitan isostearate sold under the trade name Nikkol SI 10R by the company Nikko; And

-? -Butyl glucoside cocoate or? -Butyl glucoside caprate sold by Ulice.

The mixed esters of (2) the fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol, which can be used as the nonionic surfactant, are especially fatty acids or fatty alcohols having an alkyl chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, - &lt; / RTI &gt; hydroxy acids and / or succinic acid, and glycerol. The alpha -hydroxy acid may be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The alkyl chains of fatty acids or fatty alcohols which derive mixed esters which can be used in the nano-emulsions of the present invention may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. These include in particular stearate, isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate, arachidonate, palmitate, myristate, laurate, caprate, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl, Heptyl, heptyl, heptyl, heptyl, heptyl, heptyl, heptyl, heptyl, heptyl, heptyl and octyl.

Examples of mixed esters that can be used in the nano-emulsions of the present invention include mixed esters of glycerol and a mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid sold under the trade name Imwitor 375 from Huls (CTFA designation: glyceryl citrate / Tate / linoleate / oleate); A mixed ester of succinic acid, isostearyl alcohol and glycerol (trade name: isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) sold under the trade name Imwitor 780 K by Huls; A mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid and glycerol (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate citrate) marketed by Huls under the trade name Imwitor 370; Mention may be made of a mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid and glycerol (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate lactate) marketed by Danisco under the trade name Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30.

The fatty acid esters of (3) sugar which can be used as the nonionic surfactant can be solid at a temperature of preferably 45 ° C or lower, especially C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose Esters or mixtures of esters, and mixtures of esters or esters of C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and methyl glucosides.

The C ₈ -C ₂₂ or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acids forming the fatty unit of the ester comprise saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chains, each containing from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty units of the esters can be selected in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and caprates, and mixtures thereof. Stearate is preferably used.

Sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate, and sucrose tristearate, and mixtures thereof, such as Crodesta F50, from Croda, and mixtures thereof. Examples of the fatty acid and the mixture of esters or esters of sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose include sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate, F70, F110 and F160; An example of a mixture of esters or esters of fatty acids and methylglucose that may be mentioned is methylglucose polyglyceryl-3 distearate sold under the trade name Tego-care 450 by Goldschmidt. Glucose or maltose monoesters such as methyl o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside may also be mentioned.

The fatty acid esters of (3) sugar which can be used as the nonionic surfactant may be solid at a temperature of 45 ° C or lower, especially C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and ethers of glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose, or It may be selected from a mixture of ether, and C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol and a group containing an ether or a mixture of methyl glucose ether. These are especially alkyl polyglucosides.

C ₈ -C ₂₂ or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, containing from 8 to 22, or 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively, to form a linear ether of the local unit that can be used in the nano-emulsion of the present invention Alkyl chain. The fatty units of the ether are selected in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof, .

As fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, for example, alkylpolyglucosides such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside such as those sold under the trade names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200 by Henkel, for example SEPPIC, Montanov 68, sold by Goldschmidt under the trade designation Tego-care CG90 and cetostearyl glucoside as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol optionally sold under the trade name Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel, as well as the product Montanov 202 from SEPPIC For example, arachidyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside in the form of a mixture of behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside.

More specifically used surfactants are sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate or sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, methylglucose polyglyceryl-3 distearate and alkyl polyglucoside.

The fatty esters of (4) glycerol which may be used as the nonionic surfactant may be solids at temperatures up to 45 캜, and in particular may be one or more acids containing a saturated linear alkyl chain containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms And esters formed with from 1 to 12 glycerol units. One or more of such fatty esters of glycerol may be used in the present invention.

Such esters may in particular be selected from stearates, behenates, arachidates and palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearate and palmitate are more preferably used.

Examples of the surfactant that can be used in the present invention include decaglyceryl monostearate, distearate, tristearate and pentastearate (CTFA name: polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate Polyglyceryl-10 tristearate, polyglyceryl-10pentastearate), products sold under the trade names Nikkol Decaglyn 1-S, 2-S, 3-S and 5-S, respectively, , And diglyceryl monostearate (CTFA name: polyglyceryl-2 stearate), for example, products sold under the trade name Nikkol DGMS by Nikko.

The fatty esters of (4) sorbitan which may be used as the nonionic surfactant may be solids at a temperature of 45 ° C or below and may be a C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid ester of sorbitan and an oxyethylenated C _16- C ₂₂ fatty acid esters. They are formed from one or more fatty acids and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol, each containing one or more saturated linear alkyl chains containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The oxyethylated ester generally comprises from 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units and preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.

Such esters may in particular be selected from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates and mixtures thereof. Preferably, stearate and palmitate are used.

Examples of such nonionic surfactants that can be used in the present invention include sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) sold under the trade name Span 60 by ICI, sorbitan sold under the trade name Span 40 by ICI, Monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65) sold under the trade name Tween 65 by ICI.

The above (4) ethoxylated fatty ether which is solid at a temperature of 45 DEG C or lower can be used as the nonionic surfactant and preferably contains one or more ethylene oxide units and one or more fats containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms It is an ether formed with an alcohol chain. The fatty chain of the ether may in particular be selected from behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. Examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers that may be mentioned are behenyl alcohol ethers (CTFA designations: Behenet-5, Behenet-10, Behenet-20, Behennet-20) containing 5, 10, 20 and 30 ethylene oxide units -30), for example, products sold under the trade names Nikkol BB5, BB10, BB20 and BB30 by Nikko Corporation and stearyl alcohol ethers containing two ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: stearate-2) It is marketed by ICI under the trade name Brij 72.

The above-mentioned (4) ethoxylated fatty ester which is solid at a temperature of 45 DEG C or lower can be used as the nonionic surfactant and is formed of one or more fatty acid chains containing 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and 16 to 22 carbon atoms Ester. The fatty chains in the esters may be selected in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates and palmitate units and mixtures thereof. Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters which may be mentioned are esters of stearic acid containing 40 ethylene oxide units, such as those sold under the trade name Myrj 52 (CTFA designation: PEG-40 stearate) by ICI, and 8 (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate) containing ethylene oxide units, such as Compritol HD5 ATO from Gattefosse.

The block copolymers of (5) ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B) may be used as surfactants in the nanoemulsions according to the invention, in particular block copolymers of the formula I and mixtures thereof :

(I)

Wherein x, y and z are integers such that x + z ranges from 2 to 100 and y ranges from 14 to 60,

And more particularly a block copolymer of the formula (IV) in which the HLB value is from 8.0 to 14.

As the silicone surfactant (6) that can be used in accordance with the present invention, mention can be made of, for example, those disclosed in documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.

Said (6) silicone surfactant as said nonionic surfactant may preferably be a compound of formula II:

&Lt; RTI ID = 0.0 &

[Wherein:

R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ independently of _one another represent a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical or a radical - (CH ₂ ) _x - (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y - (OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _z -OR ₄ , One or more radicals R &_lt; ₁ &gt;, R &lt; ₂ &gt; or R &lt; ₃ &gt; are not alkyl radicals; R &lt; ₄ &gt; is hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical;

A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; Provided that A and B are not simultaneously 0;

x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;

and z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

In a preferred embodiment, the alkyl radical in the compound of formula II is a methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

As a silicone surfactant of formula II, for example, a compound of formula III may be mentioned:

(III)

Wherein A is an integer in the range of 20 to 105, B is an integer in the range of 2 to 10, and y is an integer in the range of 10 to 20.

As an example of a silicone surfactant of formula II, mention may be made of compounds of formula IV:

(IV)

Wherein A 'and y are integers in the range of 10 to 20.

Compounds of the present invention that may be used include those sold by Dow Corning under the trade names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667. Compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds in which A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10, and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3, and y is 12.

The compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) wherein A is 15 and y is 13.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant can be selected from the following:

- polyethylene glycol isostearate or oleate (8 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide),

- polyethylene glycol isocetyl, behenyl ether or isostearyl ether (8 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide),

Polyglyceryl monolaurate or dilaurate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units,

- polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate containing from 3 to 6 glycerol units,

Polyglyceryl monooleate comprising from 3 to 6 glycerol units, and

Polyglyceryl diolleate containing 3 to 6 glycerol units.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters and mono- or poly-oxyalkylene fatty acid esters.

Preferably, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is an ester of polyglycerin containing 70% or more of a fatty acid and a polyglycerin having a degree of polymerization of 4 or more, preferably a polyglycerol having 60% or more of a fatty acid and a polyglycerin having a degree of polymerization of 4 to 11 An ester of glycerin, more preferably an ester of polyglycerin containing 30% or more of a fatty acid and a polyglycerin having a degree of polymerization of 5.

The polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, acids containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Di- and triesters of lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid.

The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerol, more preferably 3 or 4 to 6 glycerol, and even more preferably 5 or 6 glycerol.

Preferably, the polyglyceryl (PG) fatty acid ester is selected from the group consisting of PG-4 laurate, PG-5 laurate, PG-5 dilaurate, PG-5 oleate, PG-5 diolate, PG-5 triallylate, PG-5 triallylate, PG-5 stearate, PG-5 isostearate, PG-5 trioleate, PG-6 caprylate and PG- &Lt; / RTI &gt;

Preferably, the mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated fatty acid ester is selected from the group consisting of 1 to 20 oxyalkylene, preferably 3 to 15 oxyalkylene, more preferably 8 to 10 oxyalkylene (poly ) Oxyalkylene moiety.

The oxyalkylene moiety can be derived from alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and the like. The oxyalkylene moiety may contain from 1 to 100 moles, preferably from 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactant does not contain any oxypropylene units.

Said mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters are preferably saturated or unsaturated acids comprising from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Can be selected from mono-and diesters of saturated acids such as lauric, oleic, stearic, isostearic, capric, caprylic and myristic acids.

Examples of mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters which may be mentioned include saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₂ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₆ -C ₃₀ and more preferably C ₈ -C ₂₂ Esters of acids and polyethylene glycols.

Examples of mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters which may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid or behenic acid, Mixtures thereof, especially those containing 8 to 20 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-8 to PEG-20 laurate (as CTFA designations: PEG-8 laurate to PEG-20 laurate); PEG-8 to PEG-20 pre-stearate (as CTFA designations: PEG-8 pre-state to PEG-20 pre-state); PEG-8 to PEG-20 palmitate (as CTFA designations: PEG-8 palmitate to PEG-20 palmitate); PEG-8 to PEG-20 stearate (as CTFA designations: PEG-8 stearate to PEG-20 stearate); PEG-8 to PEG-20 isostearate (as CTFA designations: PEG-8 isostearate to PEG-20 isostearate); PEG-8 to PEG-20 oleate (as CTFA designations: PEG-8 oleate to PEG-20 oleate); PEG-8 to PEG-20 behenate (as CTFA designations: PEG-8 behenate to PEG-20 behenate); And mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the polyglycol fatty acid ester is selected from the group consisting of PEG-8 isostearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-10 isostearate, PEG-10 oleate, PEG-10 isocetyl ether, -10 isostearyl ether, and mixtures thereof. A preferred non-ionic surfactant is a polyglyceryl (PG) fatty acid ester.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of mono- or poly-oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, polyglyceryl fatty ester surfactants, and fatty acid esters of sugars, especially sucrose.

The amount of the nonionic surfactant in the composition of the present invention is not limited and may be 0.1 to 30 wt%, preferably 0.5 to 15 wt%, more preferably 1 to 10 wt% based on the total weight of the composition %. &Lt; / RTI &gt;

1-3. Water phase

The compositions of the present invention contain at least one aqueous phase. The aqueous phase contains water as a main component. The amount of water is not limited and may be 5 wt% to 99 wt%, preferably 10 wt% to 95 wt%, more preferably 15 wt% to 90 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase may further contain one or more organic solvents, preferably water-miscible organic solvents. As the organic solvent, for example, C ₁ -C ₄ alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; Aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol; Similar products of these; And mixtures thereof. The amount of the organic water-miscible solvent may be less than 10% by weight, preferably not more than 5% by weight, more preferably not more than 1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

1-4. Microcapsules containing an emissive colorant

As used herein, the term "microcapsule" means a spherical microcapsule containing one or more laminate coatings that capture one or more colorants, and which surrounds the core chemically different from the coating. The microcapsules are distinguished from the microspheres and consist of spherical homogeneous matrices.

In embodiments, "at least one laminate coating" is a multilayer coating, preferably an organic multilayer coating.

The term "multi-layer microcapsule" means a microcapsule consisting of a core surrounded by a coating based on one or more inner layer (s) and one outer layer. One or more inner layer (s) forming a multilayer coating of multi-layer microcapsules and a single outer layer of the microcapsules may be formed of the same or different wall-forming organic compound (s).

Microcapsules include a core, also referred to as an "inner core" surrounded by a coating based on one or more layer (s). In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsule is a &quot; multilayer &quot; microcapsule comprising at least one inner layer and one outer layer. One or more inner layer (s) forming a multilayer coating of multi-layer microcapsules and a single outer layer of the microcapsules may be formed of the same or different wall-forming organic compound (s).

In certain embodiments, the inner and outer layers are formed from the same wall forming organic compound, wherein the core is surrounded by a single layer coating.

In one embodiment, the outer layer does not include any colorant. In another embodiment, the outer layer contains one or more coloring agents.

The term "wall-forming organic compound" means an organic compound or a combination of two or more different organic compounds as defined herein, which forms a component of the layer (s) of the microcapsule. In a preferred embodiment, the 'wall-forming organic compound' comprises at least one polymer.

In a particular embodiment, the encapsulated colorant (s) is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from 0.5% to 20% by weight, especially from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 12% By weight of the pigment encapsulated in the active material.

Microcapsules are generally incorporated into the cosmetic formulation at the final stage of formulation to avoid rupture and, if present, after the filtration step. Preferably, the microcapsules are added at a temperature below 50 DEG C and mixed uniformly. They are weakly mixed using paddles rather than homogenizer.

Microcapsules may have the ability to rupture more readily upon contact with the aqueous phase, preferably upon contact with the hydrophilic agent (s) (e.g., water, polyol, glycol, alcohol). The microcapsules may advantageously expand upon contact with the hydrophilic agent (s) as defined below. The microcapsules are advantageously deformable when applied on a keratinous material, resulting in a soft feel to the user. In addition, their small size contributes to not creating any discomfort or negative feeling when applied.

However, microcapsules are softer as to rupture and release their contents even with very light rubbing or pressurization of the skin, but are nevertheless durable enough to avoid destruction of the coating during the preparation and storage of the composition.

In addition, since microcapsules produce substantially no coloring of the device during the manufacturing process, it is possible to use the facilities common to the production of the composition of the present invention.

Thus, the microcapsules are particularly advantageous because they can shield the intrinsic color of the encapsulated colorant, increase the stability of these colorants to degradation, and prevent unwanted release of the encapsulated colorant into the composition during the manufacturing process and long- Interested.

The composition may contain from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight of microcapsules, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferred configurations of the microcapsules will be described in detail below.

1-4-1. Emissive colorant (S) of  The first of the included microcapsules Concrete example

In a first embodiment, the microcapsules generally have a diameter of less than 800 μm, more preferably less than about 400 μm, advantageously 1 μm to 300 μm, particularly 5 μm to 200 μm, Lt; RTI ID = 0.0 &gt; 100 &lt; / RTI &gt;

The microcapsules comprising the emissive colorant (s) are multilayer microcapsules. The microcapsules contain:

- a core, preferably an uncolored core, containing, preferably consisting of, one organic material, and

At least one laminate coating surrounding said core, said laminate coating comprising at least one polymer and at least one colorant. Advantageously, it contains one or more binders.

Preferably, the microcapsules comprise at least two layers, preferably at least one organic colored inner layer and one organic outer layer of a different color than the organic colored inner layer.

Preferably, the core contains monosaccharide or polyol, preferably mannitol, selected from the group consisting of one or more monosaccharides or derivatives thereof, in particular monomethylol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof, as an organic substance.

Advantageously, the laminate coatings surrounding the core comprise polysaccharides and derivatives thereof, preferably one kind of saccharide or several kinds of saccharide (s), preferably several kinds of saccharide (s) containing at least D-glucose units (S) selected from the group consisting of starch and derivatives, cellulose and derivatives thereof, and more preferably starch and derivatives thereof.

Preferably, the microcapsules preferably comprise one or more lipid-based materials having amphipathic properties, for example lecithin and especially hydrogenated lecithin.

Advantageously, the core is present in an amount of from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 20% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, % To 60% by weight.

Advantageously, the colorant (s) represents from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, in particular from 50% to 75% by weight, based on the microcapsules.

Specifically, the microcapsule contains at least the following:

- an inner core made of a monosaccharide-polyol, preferably mannitol,

- two or more layers of different colors,

Preferably a polysaccharide or a derivative thereof, more preferably a starch or derivative, and advantageously at least one lipidic substance, preferably an amphipathic compound, more preferably a phospholipid, even more preferably a phosphoacylglycerol, At least one hydrophilic polymer selected from hydrogenated lecithin.

In one embodiment, each layer from the microcapsule contains a specific blend of one or more specific colorants or colorant (s). In one embodiment, the outer layer of microcapsules contains a specific blend of one or more specific colorants or colorant (s). In particular, the colorant is a pigment, preferably selected from the group consisting of metal oxides. In one embodiment, a layer of the microcapsules is derived contains an iron oxide and titanium dioxide (TiO ₂₎ as a coloring agent. In one embodiment, one layer derived from a microcapsule contains only TiO ₂ as a colorant.

The compositions of the present invention may further comprise one or more additives selected from the group consisting of volatile and nonvolatile silicon or hydrocarbon oils, surfactants, fillers, additional gelling agents, thickeners, film formers, polymers, preservatives, silicone elastomers, self- May contain from 0.1% to 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of an additional cosmetic ingredient (s) selected from active agents, pH adjusting agents, fragrances, UV filters and mixtures thereof.

1-4-1-1. core

In a first embodiment of the present invention, the core is made of one or more organic materials. The size of the core is preferably in the range of 500 nm to 150 μm in diameter. Preferably, the core is present in solid and / or crystalline form at room temperature under atmospheric pressure. In certain embodiments, the organic material may have a high water solubility.

Preferably, the core is water-soluble or water-dispersible.

In certain embodiments, the core is uncoloured, i.e., does not contain a colorant material.

In certain embodiments, the core consists of only one compound. Such compounds are organic and more preferably natural compounds.

In a preferred embodiment, the core is a monosaccharide-polyol selected from sugar alcohols, preferably monosaccharide-polyols, advantageously from mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol. In certain embodiments, the core is made of mannitol, more preferably only mannitol. In an alternative embodiment, the core contains at least a polymer selected from mannitol and one or more additional components, preferably a hydrophilic polymer. In particular, such cores may comprise hydrophilic polymers and mannitol selected from cellulose polymers, starch polymers and mixtures thereof, preferably mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the cellulosic polymer is carboxymethylcellulose and the starch polymer is unmodified natural starch, for example, corn starch.

The core may consist of a seed (or crystal) of one of the materials.

The core is preferably present in an amount of 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 4 to 40% by weight, in particular 5 to 30% by weight, more particularly 10 to 20% by weight, By weight.

The mannitol is preferably contained in an amount of from 2% by weight to 100% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 100% by weight, in particular 100% by weight, based on the total weight of the core.

Mannitol is preferably present in an amount of 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 4 to 40% by weight, in particular 5 to 30% by weight, in particular 10 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the microcapsules %. &Lt; / RTI &gt;

1-4-1-2. Outer layer (field)

Advantageously, as described above, the core is preferably surrounded by an outer layer (s) comprising at least one inner layer and one outer layer. In the first embodiment, these layers are preferably concentrically extended with respect to the core. The layer (s) are preferably organic, i.e. contain at least one organic compound as a wall-forming material. Preferably, the inner and / or outer layer (s) comprise at least one polymer, particularly a hydrophilic polymer.

(a) the polymer (s)

In the first embodiment, the microcapsules, particularly the outer layer (s), comprise a hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides and derivatives, acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or salts and esters thereof, .

In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules, especially the outer layer (s), comprise hydrophilic polymers selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides and derivatives, especially starch polymers.

The polymer (s) are advantageously selected from the group consisting of (poly) (alkyl) (meth) acrylic acid and derivatives thereof, especially (poly) (alkyl) (meth) acrylates and derivatives thereof, preferably alkyl acryl / And most preferably a copolymer of ethyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, and a lower amount of methacrylic ester having a quaternary ammonium group sold under the trade name EUDRAGIT RSPO by Evonik Degussa.

The polysaccharides and derivatives are preferably selected from chitosan polymers, chitin polymers, cellulosic polymers, starch polymers, galactomannan, alginates, carrageenan, mucopolysaccharides and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the outer layer (s) does not comprise microcrystalline cellulose.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polysaccharide and its derivatives are preferably selected from the group consisting of one kind of saccharides or various kinds of saccharides (s), preferably various saccharides, especially at least D-glucose units (S), preferably starch polymers, cellulosic polymers, and derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules comprise starch and derivatives thereof, in particular corn starch, cellulose and derivatives thereof, mono- and / or copolymers of methacrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid esters and / or (alkyl) acrylic acid and / Alkyl) methacrylic acid and its derivatives, preferably its salts and esters thereof, and in particular, the capsules contain polymethyl methacrylate.

In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules contain at least one hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of starch and derivatives thereof, in particular corn starch.

The starches usable according to the invention are usually derived from vegetable raw materials such as rice, soybean, potato or maize. The starch may be unmodified or modified starch (similar to cellulose). In a preferred embodiment, the starch is unmodified.

Preferred mono- and / or copolymers of methacrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid esters are those wherein the copolymer of methyl methacrylate and ethyl acrylate has a molecular weight of 750 to 850 kDa.

Cellulose derivatives include, for example, alkali cellulose carboxymethylcellulose (CMC), cellulose esters and ethers, and amino cellulose. In certain embodiments, the cellulose is carboxymethylcellulose (CMC).

In a preferred embodiment, the capsules comprise at least a starch derivative, in particular a copolymer of corn starch, polymethyl methacrylate, (alkyl) acrylic acid and / or (alkyl) methacrylic acid and derivatives thereof, Esters, and / or cellulose derivatives.

Preferably, the microcapsules contain polymer (s) that are not cross-linked. The polymer (s) may be present in one or several layer (s). In other embodiments, the polymer (s) may be present in the core. The microcapsules may contain the polymer (s) in the core and / or in the layer (s). In certain embodiments, the polymer (s) are present in the core and in the layer (s). In one embodiment, the core contains at least starch and / or cellulose derivatives as polymer (s). When starch is contained within the core, it represents the main component of the core as described above, i.e. the weight of the starch is greater than the amount of each of the other compounds of the core. The polymer may represent from 0.5% to 20% by weight of the microcapsules, in particular from 1% to 10%, preferably from 2% to 8% by weight of the microcapsules.

The different layers forming the coating may be based on the same or different polymers. Advantageously, it can be formed of the same polymer. In contrast, the layers can be advantageously colored differently. These different hues can be obtained using different colorants, but can also be obtained using different concentrations of one or more colorants if the colorant is the same for the two layers.

In certain embodiments, the outer layer contains one or more coloring agents. In another embodiment, the outer layer contains no coloring agent.

(b) colorant (s)

In the first embodiment, the microcapsules, especially the outer layer (s), contain the colorant (s).

"Coloring agents" include any organic or inorganic pigments or colorants used in cosmetic formulations, approved for use in cosmetics by CTFA and FDA. Thus, the term "colorant" means an organic pigment, for example a synthetic or natural dye selected from any of the well known FD & C or D & C dyes, an inorganic pigment such as a metal oxide or a lake such as cochineal carmine, Barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum based, and any combinations thereof. Such colorants are described in detail below. In certain embodiments, the colorant may be water-soluble or water-dispersible. In another embodiment, the colorant useful in accordance with the present invention may be oil-soluble or oil-dispersible, or may have a limited solubility in water. In a preferred embodiment, the colorant is an inorganic pigment, more preferably a metal oxide. Advantageously, the colorant of the multi-layer microcapsules is a primary metal oxide or complex oxide selected from iron oxide, titanium dioxide, aluminum oxide, zirconium oxide, cobalt oxide, cerium oxide, nickel oxide, tin oxide or zinc oxide, Is iron oxide selected from red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide or black iron oxide, or a mixture thereof.

The layer (s) may also contain rake corresponding to an organic colorant fixed to the substrate. Such lake (s) are advantageously selected from the following materials, and mixtures (s) thereof:

- cochineal carmin;

Organic pigments of azo type, anthraquinone type, indigoid type, xanthene type, pyrene type, quinoline type, triphenylmethane type and fluororan type colorant; D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 6, D & C Orange No. 4, D & C Orange No. 4; 5, D & C Orange No. 10, D & C Orange No. 11, D & C Red No. 6, D & C Red No. 7, D & C Red No. 17, C &lt; / RTI &gt; Red No. 28, D & C Red No. 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. No. 8, D & C Yellow No. 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, FD & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6;

Sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, zirconium and the like of an acid coloring agent such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, zethene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane, Of these water-insoluble salts, these colorants may contain one or more carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups.

The organic rake may also be protected by an organic support such as rosin or aluminum benzoate.

Among these organic rakes, mention may be made especially of those known under the trade names: D & C Red No.2 Aluminum lake, D & C Red No.3 Aluminum lake, D & C Red No.4 Aluminum lake, D & C Red No.6 Aluminum lake, D & Red No. 6 Barium lake, D & C Red No. 6 Barium / Strontium lake, D & C Red No. 6 Strontium lake, D & C Red No. 6 Potassium lake, D & C Red No. 6 Sodium lake, Red No. 7 Barium lake, D & C Red No. 7 Calcium lake, D & C Red No. 7 Calcium / Strontium lake, D & C Red No. 7 Zirconium lake, D & C Red No. 8 Sodium lake, Red No.9 Barium lake, D & C Red No.9 Barium / Strontium lake, D & C Red No.9 Zirconium lake, D & C Red No.10 Sodium lake, D & C Red No.19 Aluminum lake, Red No.19 Zirconium lake, D & C Red No.21 Aluminum lake, D & C Red No.21 Zirconium lake, D & C Red No.22 Aluminum lake, , D & C Red No.27 Barium lake, D & C Red No.27 Calcium lake, D & C Red No D & C Red No.38 Aluminum lake, D & C Red No.38 Calcium lime, D & C Red No.38 Aluminum lake, D & lake, D & C Red No.36 lake, D & C Red No.40 Aluminum lake, D & C Blue No.1 Aluminum lake, D & C Green No.3 Aluminum lake, D & D & C Yellow No. 5 Zirconium lake, D & C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum lake, D & C Yellow No. 5 Zirconium lake, D & FD & C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum lacquer, FD & C Yellow No.5 Aluminum lacquer, FD & C Yellow No.5 Aluminum lacquer, FD & C Yellow No.5 Aluminum lake.

The chemical substances corresponding to each of the above-mentioned organic coloring agents cited above are referred to as &quot; International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionnary and Handbook &quot; published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 1997 edition, p.371-386 and 524-528 , The contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

In a preferred embodiment, the rake (s) are selected from the group consisting of carnine and anthraquinone, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane and fluororanic colorants of cochineal Insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium of the colorant, which colorants are considered to comprise one or more carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the rake (s) are selected from carmin of cochineal and water insoluble salts of sodium, calcium, aluminum and mixtures thereof.

As rake containing carmin, mention may be made of the following commercially available products: CARMIN COVALAC W 3508, CLOISONNE RED 424C and CHROMA-LITE MAGENTA CL4505.

The water-insoluble aluminum salts are preferably FDC Yellow No. 5 aluminuim lake, FDC Blue No. 1 aluminuim lake, FDC Red No. 40 aluminuim lake, FDC Red No. 30 aluminuum lake, FDC Green No. 5 aluminuim lake, . As compounds containing such inorganic lake, in particular the following commercially available ones can be mentioned: INTENZA FIREFLY C91-1211, INTENZA AZURE ALLURE C91-1251, INTENZA THINK PINK C91-1236.

The water-insoluble calcium salt is preferably selected from Red No. 7 calcium lacquer. As such compounds containing such inorganic lake, mention may especially be made of the following commercially available products: INTENZA MAGENTITUDE C91-1234, INTENZA HAUTE PINK C91-1232, INTENZA RAZZLED ROSE C91-1231, INTENZA AMETHYST FORCE C91-7231, INTENZA PLUSH PLUM C91 -7441, INTENZA ELECTRIC CORAL 30 C91-1233, FLORASOMES-JOJOBA-SMS-10% CELLINI RED-NATURAL and mixtures thereof.

The water-insoluble sodium salt is preferably selected from Red No. 6 Sodium lake and Red No. 28 Sodium lake, and mixtures thereof. As compounds containing such inorganic lake, in particular the following commercially available ones can be mentioned: INTENZA MANGO TANGO C91-1221 and INTENZA NITRO PINK C91-1235.

In one embodiment, the colorant present in the microcapsule is selected from the group consisting of inorganic pigments, organic pigments and mixtures thereof, and is preferably a mixture of one or more inorganic pigments, more preferably at least inorganic pigments, Metal oxides, in particular iron oxide (s), titanium dioxide particles and mixtures thereof, preferably mixtures thereof.

Compositions of the present invention may comprise a blend of two or more colorants individually encapsulated in microcapsules and / or a blend of one or more colorants encapsulated in multi-layer microcapsules. In this particular embodiment, each layer of microcapsules may contain a specific blend of one or more specific colorants or colorant (s). In this particular embodiment, the compositions of the present invention comprise two or more microcapsules having different hues.

Those skilled in the art are aware of how to select a combination of colorant and colorant to produce the desired color effect or color change. As mentioned above, the microcapsules preferably contain at least titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide, preferably at least titanium dioxide, in their coatings. In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsule contains at least titanium dioxide and iron oxide in its coating. In certain embodiments, the outer layer of microcapsules more preferably contains titanium dioxide as the sole colorant.

In certain embodiments, the outer layer of the microcapsule contains an organic pigment or iron oxide.

The colorant is present in an amount ranging from 20% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% by weight to 80% by weight, more preferably from 50% by weight to 75% by weight, based on the total weight of the microcapsules.

In certain embodiments, the microcapsules are present in an amount ranging from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 85% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the microcapsules A metal oxide selected from the group consisting of iron oxide and titanium oxide.

In particular, the titanium oxide may be present in an amount of 28% by weight to 80% by weight, preferably 30% by weight to 75% by weight, more preferably 30% by weight to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the microcapsules. In certain embodiments, the titanium oxide may be present in an amount of from 50 wt% to 80 wt%, especially 55 wt% to 70 wt%, more particularly 55 wt% to 65 wt%, based on the total weight of the microcapsules .

In particular, the iron oxide may be present in an amount of from 5% by weight to 75% by weight, preferably from 8% by weight to 65% by weight, based on the total weight of the microcapsules. In certain embodiments, the iron oxide may be present in an amount greater than 15 wt%, preferably greater than 30 wt%, particularly 40 wt% to 65 wt%, based on the total weight of the microcapsules.

In a preferred embodiment, in at least one layer, preferably in all layers, the colorant is the major component, i.e. at least 40 wt% of the total weight of the layer (s), preferably at least 75 wt% , And more preferably 95% by weight of the layer (s).

In a preferred embodiment, the average thickness of the titanium dioxide layer is in the range of 5 [mu] m to 150 [mu] m.

(c) a binder or Lipid system  matter

The inner and / or outer layer (s) may also advantageously comprise at least one binder, preferably a lipid-based material. In certain embodiments of the present invention, such lipid-based materials may have amphipathic properties, i. E. Have non-polar portions and polar portions.

Such a lipid-based materials may include those which are selected from one or more or several C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ chain fatty acid (s), for example, stearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, such a fatty acid chain is hydrogenated. As a result, these fatty acid chains may be non-polar parts of lipid-based materials.

Such lipid-based materials are preferably selected from phospholipids. These phospholipids are preferably selected from phosphoacyl glycerol, more preferably from lecithin, in particular hydrogenated lecithin.

The lipid-based material may represent from 0.05% to 5% by weight of the microcapsules, in particular from 0.1% to 1% by weight of the microcapsules.

Since the time required for the colorant-encapsulated microcapsules to decompose on the skin can be adjusted by combining three or more compounds (e.g., sugar alcohols, polymers, lipid-based materials) in different hard and / or water soluble microcapsules, The desired coloring or density pattern can be adjusted by varying the application method or strength of the composition.

Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the multilayer coating contains at least starch and at least one lipid-based material, preferably lecithin, as the polymer.

In an advantageous embodiment, the microcapsules comprise at least one monosaccharide or derivative thereof and at least one polysaccharide or derivative thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules comprise a core comprising a monosaccharide derivative and a coating comprising a polysaccharide (or derivative thereof) comprising one saccharide or several saccharide (s), preferably various saccharides .

In a more preferred embodiment, the microcapsules preferably comprise a core comprising a monosaccharide polyol selected from mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, and a core comprising at least one D-glucose unit (s) And a coating comprising a polysaccharide (or derivative thereof).

In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules comprise three or more colorants in different layers.

In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules further comprise a lipid based material selected from binding agents, for example phospholipids, advantageously phosphoacyl glycerol and especially lecithin.

In certain embodiments, the microcapsules contain mannitol, starch polymers, and lipid-based materials.

 Referring to Figure 1, in a preferred embodiment, the present invention advantageously provides color-changing microcapsules comprising:

i) the core (A), preferably less than 800 m, more preferably less than about 400 m, advantageously 1 m to 300 m, especially 5 m to 200 m, more particularly 10 m to 100 m Preferably of at least one sugar alcohol selected from the group consisting of one or more sugar alcohols, preferably monosaccharide-polyols, advantageously mannitol, erythritol, xylitol and sorbitol, preferably without any coloring agent - a core (A) comprising at least one organic core selected from polyols;

ii) one first layer (B) surrounding the core, comprising:

At least one colorant, preferably iron oxide (s), and

A binder selected from the group consisting of polymeric and lipidic materials, preferably mixtures thereof;

iii) one second layer (C) surrounding said first layer (B), said layer (C) having the following properties, preferably having a thickness of from 5 μm to 500 μm:

- titanium dioxide particles, and

A binder selected from the group consisting of polymeric and lipidic materials, preferably mixtures thereof;

iv) optionally, one third layer (D) surrounding said second layer (C)

At least one colorant, and

A polymer selected from the group consisting of lipid-based materials, preferably a mixture thereof;

 v) optionally, one fourth layer (E) surrounding the second layer (C) or surrounding the third layer (D) if present,

(Poly) (alkyl) (meth) acrylic acid and its derivatives, in particular poly (alkyl) (alkyl) (meth) acrylates and their derivatives, from polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives, in particular cellulose ethers and cellulose esters. Derivatives, and preferably from alkyl acrylate / alkyl methacrylic acid copolymers and derivatives thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the polymer is a hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of starch and derivatives thereof, in particular corn starch.

As an example of commercially available microcapsules used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of the following microcapsules manufactured by Korea Particle Technology KPT under the following trade names:

- Magic 50-BW0105 from KPT: An off-white spherical microcapsule containing mannitol, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, hydrogenated lecithin, titanium dioxide, corn starch and having a particle size of 60-200 mesh.

1-4-2. Emissive colorant (S) of  The second of the containing microcapsules Concrete example

In this second embodiment, the microcapsule contains:

A core comprising at least one colored core and consequently one or more internal colored layer (s), and

A shell having at least one pressure-rupturable wall layer surrounding the core, an optional outer colored layer and an optional outermost shell.

In a preferred embodiment, the microcapsules contain the colorant (s) selected from inorganic pigment (s), preferably metal oxides, such as iron oxide and titanium dioxide.

Preferably, the colored core advantageously contains one or more inorganic pigments selected from one or more metal oxides, more advantageously one or more iron oxides.

Preferably, the pressure-rupturable wall layer advantageously contains one or more inorganic pigments selected from one or more metal oxides, more advantageously one or more titanium oxides.

Preferably, such iron oxide is located at least in the colored core, and titanium oxide is located at least in the pressure-rupturable wall layer surrounding the core.

The microcapsules may contain up to 70% by weight or more of the colorant (s), preferably inorganic pigment (s), preferably a mixture of inorganic pigments, preferably metal oxides, such as iron oxide and titanium oxide Lt; / RTI &gt;

Generally, an average particle size diameter of colorant microcapsules of about 800 microns or less is used in the present invention. Preferably, the average particle size diameter of the colorant microcapsules for skin care applications is less than about 400 microns. Advantageously, the average particle size diameter is in the range of about 10 to 350 microns. Preferably, the average particle size is from 50 탆 to 800 탆, particularly from 60 탆 to 400 탆.

Advantageously, the microcapsules have an average particle size of about 18 to 270 mesh (from about 1000 [mu] m to about 53 [mu] m), in particular from 25 to 170 mesh (710 [mu] m to 90 [mu] m).

In particular, for the skin care compositions of the present invention, the amount of microcapsules ranges from 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, preferably 0.2 wt% to 3 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

In particular, for the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the amount of microcapsules is in the range of 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 2% to 10% .

In certain embodiments, the encapsulated colorant (s) is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from 0.5% to 20% by weight, especially from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 12% By weight of the encapsulated pigment in the active material.

These are generally incorporated into the cosmetic formulations at the end of the formulation to avoid rupture and, if present, after the filtration step. Preferably, the microcapsules of the present invention are added at a temperature below 50 DEG C and mixed uniformly. They are weakly mixed using paddles rather than a homogenizer.

In certain embodiments of the present invention, microcapsules of greater than 60%, preferably greater than 70%, especially greater than 80%, and more particularly greater than 90%, are applied by hand or by means of a pressurizing, rubbing, applying and / Or rupture within 1 minute, preferably 1 to 40 seconds, especially 1 to 30 seconds, more particularly 1 to 20 seconds after scrubbing to release the internal colorant. However, the above rate and time-limiting are not critical to the present invention.

1-4-2-1. Core (colorant and binder or Lipid system  matter)

In the second embodiment, the core of the microcapsule contains at least one colorant and advantageously at least one binder, for example a colored core containing a lipidic material.

The colorant (s) is not particularly limited, and preferably the species described above are used.

The binder is preferably selected from one or more hydrophilic polymers, one or more lipid-based materials and mixtures thereof, preferably mixtures thereof. In general, it is difficult to form a coating layer using only the colorant component or particles without using any binder. Further, even if a coating layer is difficult to form without a binder, such a coating layer can easily be damaged or ruptured, or the component or particles can be easily removed from the coating layer. Thus, bonding agents can be employed to promote the coating process and improve the durability of the coating layer. Such a binder is selected from an adhesive polymer material that can act as a wall-forming material (wall-forming polymeric material).

In the present invention, the binder is preferably selected from one or more wall-forming materials, lipid-based materials and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the binder is a mixture containing both the polymer as the wall-forming material and the lipid-based material as the coating base.

The coating substrate refers to a hydrophilic coating substrate, a hydrophobic coating substrate or a lipid-based coating substrate. It is desirable to employ a lipid-based coated substrate because the hydrophilic coated substrate can be extracted with the colorant and the hydrophobic substrate can impart a foreign sensation due to its too strong film properties.

In certain embodiments, such lipid-based materials may have amphipathic properties, i.e., non-polar portions and polar portions.

Such a lipid-based materials may include one or more or different C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids such as those selected from stearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, etc., and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty acid chains are hydrogenated. As a result, such fatty acid chains may be non-polar portions of lipid-based materials.

Lipid-based materials is an amphipathic material having both a polar part and a nonpolar part in one molecule, such as C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ is selected from stearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and the group consisting of a mixture thereof Fatty acid chain. The fatty acid chain can be hydrogenated and optionally forms a non-polar portion of the lipid-based material.

The lipid-based substance may be a phospholipid such as phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidic acid or phosphatidylserine, a sphingolipid such as sphingosine-1-phosphate or sphingomyelin and a ceramide, preferably a phospholipid mixture, or Lecithin, and particularly hydrogenated lecithin.

The amount of the lipid-based material can be determined in consideration of the wall-forming polymer as well as other kinds of components such as the colorant and / or the type and amount of the titanium dioxide particles. However, in general, the amount of the lipid based material is preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight, especially from 0.2% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 20% by weight, By weight may be selected from 0.4% to 20% by weight. If the amount of the lipid based material is less than 0.1 wt%, the tearability or resolution ability may be reduced, and if it is more than 25 wt%, the durability may be reduced or the stability during processing and storage may be decreased.

In the present invention, the wall-forming polymer is selected from hydrophilic polymers. The term "hydrophilic polymer" means a polymer capable of forming a hydrogen bond with water or an alcohol compound (in particular selected from lower alcohols, glycols and polyols), especially those having O-H, N-H and S-H bonds in the molecule.

The hydrophilic polymer may be selected from the following polymers or mixtures thereof:

- acrylic acid or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or their salts and esters, in particular products sold under the trade name Ultrahold 8 by Allied Colloid, Versicol F or Versicol K, by Ciba-Geigy, and Synthalen K type polyacrylic acid And sodium salts of polyacrylic acids (corresponding to the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer), more particularly crosslinked sodium polyacrylates sold by BASF under the trade name Luvigel EM (INCI name Sodium Acrylate Copolymer (And) caprylic / capric triglyceride);

Acrylic acid sold under the trade name Dargen No. 7 by Vanderbilt, and sodium polyacrylate sold by Henkel under the trade name Hydagen F; A copolymer of a carboxylic acid with a sodium salt;

- polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers; Most particularly preferred copolymers are acrylate / C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ - alkyl acrylate copolymers (INCI designation: acrylates / C _10-30 alkyl acrylate polymers Cross), for example, trade name from Lubrizol Corporation Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2 , Carbopol 1382 and Carbopol ETD2020, Carbopol Ultrez 21, and even more preferably Pemulen TR-2;

Alkyl acrylate / alkyl methacrylic acid copolymers and their derivatives, in particular their salts and their esters, such as ethyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate and quaternary ammonium groups, available from Evonik Degussa under the trade name EUDRAGIT RSPO Copolymers of small amounts of methacrylic acid esters;

- AMPS sold by Clariant (polyacrylamidomethyl propanesulfonic acid, partially neutralized and highly crosslinked with aqueous ammonia);

- AMPS / acrylamide copolymers such as the products sold by SEPPIC, Sepigel or Simulgel, in particular the INCI name polyacrylamide and C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin (and) laureth-7;

A type of polyoxyethylenated AMPS / alkyl methacrylate copolymer (cross-linked or non-cross-linked) such as Aristoflex HMS sold by Clariant;

- anionic, cationic, amphiphilic or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers;

-Cellulose polymers and derivatives thereof, preferably derivatives other than alkylcellulose, selected from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, and also derivatives of quaternized Cellulose derivatives; In a preferred embodiment, the cellulosic polymer is carboxymethylcellulose;

- starch polymers and derivatives thereof which are subsequently modified; In a preferred embodiment, the starch polymer is a natural starch;

Copolymers of vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; Polyvinyl alcohol;

- any modified polymer of natural origin such as galactomannan and derivatives thereof such as konjac gum, gellan gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, karaya gum, gross tragacanth, gum arabic, acacia Hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium guar chloride and xanthan derivatives modified with sodium, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, sodium methyl carboxylate groups;

Alginate and carrageenan;

- glycosaminoglycan, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof; And

Mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the hydrophilic polymer of the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides and derivatives thereof, mono- and / or copolymers or salts and esters of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Polysaccharides and derivatives thereof can be selected from chitosan polymers, chitin polymers, cellulose polymers, starch polymers, galactomannan, alginates, carrageenan, mucopolysaccharides and their derivatives and mixtures thereof.

The polysaccharides and derivatives thereof are preferably selected from the group consisting of starch polymers.

Preferably, the hydrophilic polymer is selected from the group consisting of corn starch, polymethylmethacrylate, cellulose or derivatives thereof, such as carboxymethylcellulose (CMC), cellulose esters and ethers and aminocellulose, and mixtures thereof have.

Preferably, the hydrophilic polymer may be selected from the group consisting of corn starch, polymethyl methacrylate, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred mono- and / or copolymers of methacrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid esters are those in which the copolymer of methyl methacrylate and ethyl acrylate has a molecular weight of 750 kDa to 850 kDa.

In the present invention, the hydrophilic polymer (s) used as the wall-forming material are not cross-linked.

The amount of polymer or wall-forming polymer may be determined in consideration of the type and amount of colorant, titanium dioxide particles and / or lipid-based materials. However, in general, the amount of polymer or wall-forming polymer in each layer is from 0.1% to 30% by weight, especially from 0.2% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 20% by weight, %, More preferably 0.4 wt% to 20 wt%. If the content of the lipid material is less than 0.1 wt%, the tearability or resolution ability may be reduced, and if it is more than 25 wt%, the durability may be reduced or the stability during processing and storage may be reduced. Such hydrophilic polymers described in this section can be implemented both as shell-forming polymers and as binders.

The core may be in the form of powders, granules, microspheres and microcapsules, for example, by spray drying or fluidized bed processing of a solution containing at least one colorant, at least one polymeric particle as the wall-forming material and at least one lipidic material in a solvent .

The size of the colored core, more generally the core, is not particularly limited, and can be suitably selected according to the desired microcapsule finally. For example, the size of the colored core, more generally the core, is at least 20 占 퐉, particularly at least 30 占 퐉, preferably at least 40 占 퐉, more preferably at least 50 占 퐉 and at most 800 占 퐉, It may be 700 mu m or less, preferably 600 mu m or less, and more preferably 500 mu m or less.

The radius of the core is more than 50%, specifically more than 60%, preferably more than 70%, more preferably more than 80% of the total radius of the microcapsules. For example, the ratio between the radius of the core and the thickness of the shell may be from 1: 0.05 to 1: 0.5.

Alternatively, the amount of core is greater than 30 weight percent, specifically greater than 40 weight percent, preferably greater than 50 weight percent, more preferably greater than 60 weight percent, based on the total weight of the microcapsules. Thus, microcapsules have a large amount of loaded colorant in the particles.

The core may have one or more internal colored layer (s) surrounding the colored core. The inner colored layer (s) may be any layer located between the colored core and the pressure-rupturable wall layer.

The inner coloring layer (s) include, for example, a first inner coloring layer, a second inner coloring layer, and a third inner coloring layer, wherein the colorant and the binder contained in each inner coloring layer are homologous or different . In a preferred embodiment, the colored core may comprise one or two internal colored layer (s), preferably one internal colored layer.

When the core has a colored core and an inner colored layer, the colored core may be formed by granulation of a solution for colored cores containing at least one colorant and preferably at least one binder, By coating the colored core with a solution for the inner coloring layer containing at least one coloring agent and preferably at least one binder. The coating process can be carried out by a fluidized bed coating process.

The thickness of the internal coloring layer is not particularly limited and may be suitably selected according to the desired microcapsule finally. For example, the thickness of the colored core, more generally the core, is at least 20 占 퐉, particularly at least 40 占 퐉, preferably at least 60 占 퐉, more preferably at least 80 占 퐉 and at most 200 占 퐉, Or less, preferably 120 占 퐉 or less, and more preferably 100 占 퐉 or less.

Alternatively, the amount of the internal coloring layer may be 20 wt% to 80 wt%, particularly 30 wt% to 70 wt%, and preferably 40 wt% to 60 wt%, based on the total weight of the core.

In certain embodiments, the colored core does not contain a binder and is surrounded by an internal colored layer containing a colorant and a binder, whereby the pigments contained in the core are more easily dispersed when the microcapsules are ruptured.

In the colored core, the binder may be used in an amount such that the colorant is not released or separated from the layer after coating removal and / or after removal of the solvent, and is generally from 1% to 30% by weight %, Preferably from 2 wt% to 25 wt%, especially from 5 wt% to 20 wt%, more particularly from 5 wt% to 15 wt%.

In a preferred embodiment, the colorant (s), preferably the pigment (s), more preferably the iron oxide (s), is present in the core in an amount of at least 70 wt%, in particular at least 75 wt% Is present in an amount of at least 80 wt%, more preferably at least 85 wt%, such as at least 80 wt% and at most 99 wt%.

In a preferred embodiment, the colorant (s), preferably the pigment (s), more preferably the iron oxide (s) are present in the composition in an amount of at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 35% by weight, Is present in an amount of at least 40% by weight, for example from 40% by weight to 60% by weight.

The amount of iron oxide (s) particles in the microcapsules may be from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 25% to 55% by weight, more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the microcapsules have. More preferably, the amount of iron oxide (s) particles in the microcapsule is from 30% to 58% by weight, preferably from 35% to 55% by weight, more preferably from 40% 50% by weight.

1-4-2-2. Pressure- Bursting wall Layer or titanium dioxide particle layer

The microcapsule has a pressure-rupturable wall layer containing at least one colorant. The colorant (s) is preferably selected from inorganic pigments, more preferably metal oxides, even more preferably titanium dioxide particles.

Preferably, the colorant contained in the pressure-rupturable wall layer is distinguished from the colorant (s) contained in the colored core, for example the two metal oxides are distinguished from each other.

In a preferred embodiment, the titanium dioxide particles are discontinuously dispersed in the layer and are bound to each other by a binder.

The term " pressure-bursting "or" pressure-spiking "means that tearing can easily occur by hand, by pressing, rubbing, applying and / or scrubbing with a tool such as fabric, sponge or paper.

The pressure-bursting titanium dioxide particle layer may contain particles of titanium dioxide and a binder, and the binder may contain a wall-forming material.

In the pressure-rupturable wall layer of the present invention, it is believed that the titanium dioxide particles embedded in the wall-forming material inevitably rupture the pressure-rupturable wall layer and accelerate or increase the disintegration or decomposition of the wall layer. In addition, titanium dioxide particles are expected to play an important role in the strength, durability, pressure-rupturing properties of the wall layer and the feeling obtained.

For example, a pressure-rupturable wall layer can be formed by the following process:

(a) dissolving or dispersing titanium dioxide particles and a binder in an appropriate solvent to provide a solution containing titanium dioxide particles and a binder,

(b) coating particles having an internal colored layer with the solution obtained in (a), and

(c) optionally, drying the resulting particles obtained in (b) above.

The coating can be carried out using a fluidized bed process, but other coating processes can be used if desired. With respect to suitable solvents that can be used in the above process, mention may be made of water or lower boiling solvents such as methylene chloride, methanol and ethanol.

The titanium dioxide particle layer, which may vary in thickness depending on the amount of titanium dioxide to be used and / or the type of the binder, is 10 μm or more, preferably 20 μm or more, more preferably 30 μm or more, particularly 40 μm or more , Usually not more than 300 mu m, preferably not more than 250 mu m, more preferably not more than 200 mu m, particularly not more than 150 mu m.

The amount of titanium dioxide particles in the pressure-rupturable wall layer is preferably from 50% to 99% by weight, more preferably from 60% to 98% by weight, more preferably from 70% to 70% by weight based on the total weight of the pressure- By weight to 97% by weight, in particular from 80% by weight to 95% by weight. Preferably, the amount of colorant (s), especially titanium dioxide particles, represents less than 100% of the pressure-rupturable wall layer.

The amount of titanium dioxide particles in the microcapsules is preferably selected from 20% by weight to 60% by weight, preferably 25% by weight to 55% by weight, more preferably 30% by weight to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the microcapsules do.

The colorant (s) in the colored core, preferably the iron oxide (s), and the colorant (s) in the pressure-rupturable wall layer, preferably titanium dioxide particles, are all present in each total amount in the microcapsules, The weight ratio of colorant (s), preferably iron oxide (s), in the colored core to the colorant (s), preferably titanium dioxide particles, in the pressure-rupturable wall layer is at least one.

The iron oxide (s) and titanium dioxide particles are all present in each total amount in the microcapsules, for example, the weight ratio of iron oxide (s) to the titanium dioxide particles is at least one.

The average diameter or size of the titanium dioxide particles is not particularly limited, but is generally in the range of 10 nm to 20 占 퐉, preferably 50 nm to 10 占 퐉, more preferably 100 nm to 5 占 퐉, particularly 150 nm to 5 占 퐉 . An average diameter or size of less than 10 nm of the titanium dioxide particles may cause a decrease in the pressure-bursting ability, and an average diameter of more than 20 탆 may make formation of the titanium dioxide particle layer difficult. Titanium dioxide particles having a first particle size below this range and a second particle size within said particle size range are applicable to the present invention.

1-4-2-3. The optional outer colored layer

The microcapsule additionally comprises an optional outer colored layer on the pressure-bursting titanium dioxide particle layer. The external coloring layer can be formed by using a solution having a colorant and a binder, for example, by coating a titanium dioxide particle layer by a fluidized bed process. The colorant and the binder used in the outer coloring layer may be the same as or different from those used in the inner coloring layer.

In general, the outer coloring layer is provided to give a visual color different from the color of the white color produced by the titanium dioxide particle layer and / or the color of the inner coloring layer. Therefore, the colorant in the external coloring layer can be used in such an amount as not to hinder the color produced by the internal coloring layer when the microcapsules are scrubbed.

The amount of the external coloring layer is 1 wt% to 60 wt%, preferably 2 wt% to 50 wt%, more preferably 3 wt% to 40 wt%, particularly 4 wt% to 30 wt% % &Lt; / RTI &gt; However, the amount of the coloring agent in the external coloring layer is preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 4.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight based on the total weight of the coloring agent in the internal coloring layer, In particular 0.5% to 3.5% by weight.

The amount of the coloring agent in the external coloring layer can be further increased if the coloring layer does not harm the color of the internal coloring layer. Those skilled in the art can appropriately select the color and amount of the colorant in the outer coloring layer in consideration of the color and amount of the coloring agent contained in the inner coloring layers and the desired color to be finally generated.

The thickness of the external coloring layer is not particularly limited, and may be suitably selected according to the desired microcapsule finally. For example, the outer colored layer may have a thickness of more than 20 μm, particularly more than 40 μm, preferably more than 60 μm, more preferably more than 80 μm, less than 200 μm, in particular less than 150 μm, Mu] m, more preferably less than 100 [mu] m.

1-4-2-4. Outermost  Shell

The microcapsules include protective outermost shells on the pressure-bursting titanium dioxide particle layer or additional external colouration layer to protect the microcapsules against moisture in air during storage or to ensure long term stability of the carrier, especially microcapsules in solution can do.

The outermost shells may be made of one or more polymers and are preferably polysaccharides and derivatives thereof, acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or their salts and esters, polystyrene-maleic anhydride copolymers, and mixtures thereof , For example, one or more polymers selected from the group consisting of poly (meth) acrylates, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the outermost shell is selected from 0.1 wt% to 20.0 wt%, preferably 0.5 wt% to 15 wt%, based on the total weight of the microcapsules. If the amount of the outermost shell is less than 0.1 wt%, the shell coating may be meaningless, and if it is more than 20.0 wt%, a foreign body sensation may be caused.

The thickness of the outermost shell is not particularly limited, and may be suitably selected according to the desired microcapsule finally. For example, the outermost shell may have a thickness of greater than 20 microns, in particular greater than 30 microns, preferably greater than 40 microns, more preferably greater than 50 microns, and less than 200 microns, in particular less than 150 microns, Mu] m, more preferably less than 90 [mu] m.

Other examples of polymers that can be realized as outermost shells will be provided below in the description of binders that can be used in the microcapsules of the present invention.

1-4-3. fair

Microcapsules may be prepared by conventional methods known in the art of coatings or encapsulation areas, including pelleting, granulation, coating, and the like. For example, the microcapsules can be prepared by the steps of including a mixture of the compounds (activator, pigment, polymer, solvent) as disclosed in WO 01/35933 and WO2011 / 027960, and drying to form capsules, By granulation and coating steps by spray drying, as disclosed in US Pat. An example of the preparation of a spheroidal multilayer comprising concentric layers of the core and the pharmaceutical active can be found in WO08 / 139053. The fixation of the pharmaceutical active on the core is carried out by dipping or spraying or spraying, after which the first layer is dried before application of the second layer.

Preferably, the microcapsules introduced into the composition of the present invention are obtainable by, and preferably at least partially by, the fluid bed technique described below. The fluidized bed process is characterized by forming a true capsule as compared to spray drying, forming a matrix of granular particles formed by particle agglomeration or a core material randomly dispersed in the polymer. In particular, the use of a fluidized bed process allows the core to be a substantially spherical microcapsule having a substantially spherical core surrounded by one or more circumferentially surrounding layers and preferably one or more outer layers circumferentially surrounding the inner layer .

Fluid bed processes are described, for example, in Fluid-Bed Coating, Teunou, E .; Poncelet, 2005, D. Food Science and Technology ( Boca Raton , FL, United States), Volume 146, Issue Encapsulated and Powdered Foods, Pages 197-212. Those skilled in the art know how to adjust the amount of air, the amount of liquid, and the temperature to enable the production of the microcapsules according to the present invention.

Preferably, the fluidized bed process comprises a Wurster process and / or a tangential atomizing process. Such a process, unlike the pelletizing process, results in a spherical capsule having a core surrounded by one or more surrounding layers.

It is possible to adjust the time required for the colorant-encapsulated microcapsules to rupture in the skin by combining two or more compounds (e.g., polymers, lipid-based materials) with titanium dioxide particles in different hardness and / or water-soluble microcapsules It is possible to adjust the desired coloring or tint pattern by varying the application method or intensity to the skin.

Preferably, the multilayer coating contains at least starch as a polymer with one or more lipid-based materials and preferably lecithin.

Preferably, the microcapsules additionally contain a lipid-based material selected from phospholipids, advantageously chosen from phosphoacylglycerols and in particular from lecithin.

Preferably, the microcapsules comprise three or more (in terms of color) different coloring agents. More preferably, the colorant is an inorganic pigment and even more preferably a metal oxide (s).

In the present invention, the organic solvent may be employed in the preparation of the coating solution used in the fluid bed coating process. The organic solvent is not particularly limited, but preferably includes methylene chloride, methanol, ethanol, and mixtures thereof. It is possible to employ any organic solvent so long as it can dissolve or disperse the polymer and / or the lipid-based material, has a lower boiling point than water, and has low residual toxicity.

The microcapsules used in the present invention can be obtained by the following steps, and are preferably obtained thereby:

(a-1) preparing particles of colored core (A-1) containing at least one colorant and at least one binder, and

(a-2) optionally, the colored cores prepared in step (a-1) are coated with a solution which is the same as or different from the one used in step (a-1) or in which the colorants and binders are dissolved or dispersed A step of forming an internal colored layer (A-2)

(b) coating the particles produced in step (a-1) or (a-2) with a solution of titanium dioxide particles and binder forming a pressure-rupturable wall layer (B)

(c-1) optionally, mixing the particles obtained in step (b) with a solution in which the coloring agent and binder are the same or different from those used in step (a-1) or (a-2) To form an external coloring layer (C-1)

(c-2) optionally, coating the particles obtained in step (b) or (c-1) with a solution in which the shell-forming polymer is dissolved or dispersed to form an outermost shell.

The present invention will be further illustrated by the following examples, but is not limited thereto.

1-4-4 Characteristics of microcapsules

The microcapsules may be present in the compositions of the present invention preferably at elevated temperatures, for example at 40 DEG C or higher, for example for 3 months in an oven of 1 month, more preferably 2 months, still more preferably of 45 DEG C, For 15 days. .

Preferably, the microcapsules exhibit adequate softening kinetics. More preferably, at least three hours after contact with the other compounds of the formulation, the hardness of the microcapsules is advantageously from 5 to 50 grams, more preferably from 6 to 20 grams, even more preferably from 7 to 10 grams . The hardness is adapted to the industrial manufacturing process of the composition including the microcapsule. These values of softening kinetics and hardness enable the preparation of cosmetic microcapsules as well as overall cosmetic compositions.

In particular, the composition can induce different hue or color hue depending on the strength of the rub. The composition can advantageously provide a high chroma C * as measured by CIE Lab system 1976. [

1-5. Additional surfactants

The composition of the present invention may further contain at least one additional surfactant in addition to the above (b). Although a single type of additional surfactant may be used, two or more different types of additional surfactants may be used in combination.

As additional surfactants, one or more ionic surfactants may be used. The ionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of a cationic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, and an amphoteric surfactant, preferably an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant, more preferably an anionic surfactant Lt; / RTI &gt;

1-5-1. Cationic  Surfactants

The cationic surfactant is not limited. The cationic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of polyoxy alkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to, those of the following formula V:

(V)

Wherein R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ may be identical or different and are linear and / or branched containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, Branched aliphatic radical. Aliphatic radical, for example alkyl, alkoxy, C ₂ -C _6, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂₎ alkyl amido (C ₂ -C ₆₎ alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂₎ alkyl Acetate and hydroxyalkyl radicals; And aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; X ^- is halide, phosphate, acetate, lactate, (C ₂ -C ₆ ) alkyl sulfate and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonate; Quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolines; Divalent quaternary ammonium salts; And quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester functional group.

The above-mentioned quaternary ammonium salts that can be used in the composition according to the present invention include, but are not limited to, tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as dialkyldimethylammonium and alkyltrimethylammonium chloride, Carbon atoms, such as behenyl trimethyl ammonium, distearyl dimethyl ammonium, cetyl trimethyl ammonium and benzyl dimethyl stearyl ammonium chloride; Palmitylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride; And also it includes a profile dimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, stearic amino sold by Van Dyk Inc. as trade name "Ceraphyl ^® 70".

In one embodiment, the cationic surfactants that may be used in the compositions of the present invention include quaternary ammonium salts such as behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-83, quaternium-87, quaternium- 22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

1-5-2. Anionic  Surfactants

The anionic surfactant is not limited. Anionic surfactants are especially useful for the production of proteins or silk protein anionic derivatives of plant origin, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, carboxylates, sulfosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, Taurates, alkylsulfoacetates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides, and mixtures thereof.

1) Anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin are protein hydrolysates containing hydrophobic groups, and hydrophobic groups can be naturally present in the protein or added by the reaction of a protein and / or a protein hydrolyzate with a hydrophobic compound. The protein may be of vegetable origin or derived from silk, and the hydrophobic group may be an alkyl chain, especially comprising an fat chain, for example from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. More specifically, mention may be made of apple, wheat, soybean or oat protein hydrolyzate and salts thereof containing an alkyl chain having 10 to 22 carbon atoms as an anionic derivative of a protein of vegetable origin. The alkyl chain may in particular be a lauryl chain, and the salts may be sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts.

Thus, protein hydrolysates containing hydrophobic groups include, for example, salts of protein hydrolysates, proteins of which are silk proteins modified with lauric acid, such as those sold under the trade name Kawa Silk by Kawaken; A salt of a protein hydrolyzate wherein the protein is a wheat protein modified with lauric acid, for example, potassium salt (CTFA name: potassium lauroylmethylamino acid) sold by Croda under the trade name Aminofoam W OR, Sodium salt (CTFA name: sodium lauroylmethylamino acid) sold by Proteol LW 30; A salt of a protein hydrolyzate wherein the protein is an oat protein comprising an alkyl chain having 10 to 22 carbon atoms and more particularly a salt of a protein hydrolyzate wherein the protein is an oat protein modified with lauric acid, Sodium salt (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl oat amino acid) sold under the trade name Proteol OAT (30% aqueous solution); Or a salt of an apple protein hydrolyzate containing an alkyl chain having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as sodium salt sold under the trade name Proteol APL (30% aqueous / glycol solution) from Seppic Co. (CTFA name: sodium cocoyl Apple amino acids). A mixture of lauroyl amino acids (aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, alanine) neutralized with sodium N-methyl glycinate (CTFA name: sodium cocoyl amino acid) sold under the trade name Proteol SAV 50 S by Seppic have.

2) Phosphates and alkylphosphates include, for example, monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates such as lauryl monophosphate sold under the trade name MAP 20 ^® by Kao Chemicals, potassium salt of dodecyl phosphate, Cognis under the trade name Crafol A mixture of mono-and diesters (mainly diesters) sold by AP-31 ^® , a mixture of octyl phosphate monoesters and diesters sold under the trade name Crafol AP-20 ^® by Cognis, Condea, Isofol 12 7 EO -Phosphate ester ^® ethoxylated (7 mol of EO) sold as 2-butyl-octyl phosphate, a mixture of monoesters and diesters, mono- sold by Uniqema Corporation under the trade name Arlatone MAP 230K-40 ^® and Arlatone MAP 230T-60 ^® (C ₁₂ -C ₁₃₎ La potassium sold by potassium or triethanolamine salt, Rhodia Chimie Corporation under the trade name of an alkyl phosphate Dermalcare MAP XC-99/09 ^® us. Phosphate, and potassium cetyl phosphate sold by Uniqema under the trade name Arlatone MAP 160K.

3) As carboxylates, mention may be made of the following:

- amido ether carboxylate (AEC), for example sodium laurylamido ether carboxylate (3 EO) sold under the trade name Akypo Foam 30 ^® by Kao Chemicals;

- polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts, for example polyoxyethylene screen sold by Kao Chemicals Inc. under the trade name ^{Akypo Soft 45 NV ® (6 EO} ) , sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (65/25/10 C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ -C _16), Biologia E Tecnologia in four Olivem trade name of olive oil derived from the sale to 400 ^® polyoxyethylenated and carboxy-methylene fatty acid, or polyoxyethylene screen (6 EO sold by Nikkol Co. under the trade name Nikkol ^® ECTD-6NEX ) Sodium tridecyl ether carboxylate; And

Salts of fatty acids (soaps) having C ₆ to C ₂₂ alkyl chains neutralized with organic bases or inorganic bases, for example potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine.

4) As amino acid derivatives, mention may be made in particular of alkali salts of the following amino acids:

- sarcosinate, for example sold under the trade name Sarkosyl NL 97 ^® by Ciba, or sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the trade name Oramix L 30 ^® by Seppic, sold under the trade name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN ^® by Nikkol Sodium myristoyl sarcosinate or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the trade name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN ^® by the company Nikkol;

Sodium alginate, such as sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30 ^® from Nikkol, or sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate sold under the trade name Alanone ALE ^® by Kawaken, or Triethanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine marketed under the trade name Alanone ALTA ^® from Kawaken;

-Glutamate, for example from Ajinomoto Company trade name CT-12 ^® Acylglutamate triethanolamine mono kokoyi glutamate, triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold by Ajinomoto Corporation under the trade name Acylglutamate LT-12 ^® sold by;

- aspartate, for example a mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate sold under the trade name Asparack ^® by the company Mitsubishi;

- glycine derivatives (glycinates) such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate sold under the trade names Amilite GCS-12 ^® and Amilite GCK 12 by Ajinomoto;

Citrate, e.g. citric monoesters of oxyethylenated (9 moles) cocoa alcohols sold by Goldschmidt under the trade name Witconol EC 1129; And

- Galacturonate, for example sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate sold by Soliance.

5) alcohol as sulfosuccinates, such as polyoxyethylene screen (3 EO) lauryl (70/30 C ₁₂ / C ₁₄ sold by Witco Corporation under the trade name Setacin 103 Special ^® and ^{Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4 ®} ) Alcohol monosulfosuccinate, the sodium salt of C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alcohol sold by Zschimmer Schwarz under the trade name Setacin F Special Paste ^® , sodium stearate of Catechin acetate, commercially available from Cognis under the trade name Standapol SH 135 ^® , (2 EO) disodium oleamidosulfosuccinate, oxyethylenated (5 EO) lauramide monosulfosuccinate sold under the trade name Lebon A-5000 ^® by Sanyo, Witco under the trade name Rewopol SB CS 50 polyoxyethylene screen sold as ^® (10 EO) lauryl citrate mono alcohol ricinoleate Lake monoethanol amide mono alcohol refers to carbonate during posuk sold by the sodium salt, or Witco Corporation of posuk when carbonate under the trade name Rewoderm S 1333 ^® can do. Polydimethylsiloxane sulfosuccinates such as Disodium PEG-12 dimethiconesulfosuccinate sold under the trade name Mackanate-DC 30 by MacIntyre may be used.

6) alkyl sulfate, for example triethanolamine lauryl sulfate (CTFA designation: TEA lauryl sulfate), for example 40% in aqueous solution, sold by Huntsman under the trade name Empicol TL40 FL or Cognis under the trade name Texapon T42 Can be mentioned. Also, mention may be made of ammonium lauryl sulfate (CTFA designation: ammonium lauryl sulfate), such as the product sold under the trade name Empicol AL 30FL by Huntsman, 30% in aqueous solution.

7) alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate (CTFA designation: sodium laureth sulfate), such as those sold under the trade names Texapon N40 and Texapon AOS 225 UP by Cognis, or ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (CTFA designation: ammonium laureth sulfate), for example, Cognis under the trade name Standapol EA-2.

8) as a sulfonate, for example, sold under the α- olefin sulfonate, for example, trade name Bio-Terge AS-40 sold as ^®, or from Witco Company trade name Witconate AOS Protege ^® and Sulframine AOS PH ^® 12 from Stepan Company, or , or sodium α- olefin sold by Stepan company under the trade name Bio-Terge aS-40 CG ^® sulphonate (C ₁₄ -C _16), 2 car sodium olefin sulfonate sold under the trade name Hostapur ^® SAS 30 from Clariant Corporation; Or linear alkyl aryl sulfonates, for example, mention may be made of sodium xylene sulfonate, sold under the trade name Manrosol SXS30 ^{®, ®} and Manrosol SXS40 Manrosol SXS93 ^® from Manro used.

9) As isethionates, acyl isethionates, such as sodium cocoyl isethionate, can be mentioned, for example, the product sold under the trade name Jordapon CI P ^® by Jordan.

10) Sodium salt of palm kernel methyl taurate sold by Clariant under the trade name Hostapon CT Pate ^® as taurate; N- -N- methyl acyl taurates, for example sodium cocoyl N- methyl -N- tau sold by sales or Nikkol Co. in the trade name Hostapon Clarian four LT-SF ^® under the trade name Nikkol CMT-30-T ^® Sodium methylstearoyl taurate sold under the trade name Nikkol SMT ^® by the company Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl methyl taurate sold under the trade name Nikkol PMT ^® .

11) The anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides may especially be citrates, tartrates, sulfosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol ethers obtained from alkyl polyglucosides. For example, cocoyl poly glucoside sold by cocoyl glucoside poly (1, 4) the sodium salt of tartaric acid esters, sold by Seppic Corporation Cesalpinia company under the trade name Eucarol AGE-ET ^® under the trade name Essai 512 MP ^® (1 , 4) disodium salt of sulfosuccinic acid ester, or the sodium salt of cocoyl polyglucoside (1,4) citrate ester sold by Cesalpinia under the trade name Eucarol AGE-EC ^® .

Preferably, the amino acid derivative may be an acylglycine derivative or a glycine derivative, particularly an acylglycine salt.

Acylglycine derivatives or glycine derivatives may be selected from acylglycine salts (or acylglycinates) or glycine salts (or glycinates), and in particular from the following.

i) acyl glycinates of the formula:

R-HNCH ₂ COOX

[Wherein,

- R represents an acyl group R'C = O, where R 'is preferably an alkyl group of from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, More preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising from 16 to 20 carbon atoms,

X is a cation selected from, for example, an alkali metal, for example Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K, an alkaline earth metal, for example an ion of Mg, an ammonium group, .

The acyl group may in particular be selected from lauroyl, myristoyl, behenonyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, isostearoyl, oleyl, cocoyl or oleoyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, R is a cocoyl group.

ii) glycinates of formula (VI)

(VI)

[Wherein:

R ₁ represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms; R ₁ is advantageously selected from lauryl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, cetyl, cetearyl or oleyl groups and mixtures thereof, preferably from stearyl and oleyl groups,

R ₂ groups are identical or different and represent R "OH groups, wherein R" is an alkyl group containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms.

As the compound of the formula (VI), for example, a compound whose INCI name is sodium cocoyl glycinate, for example, Amilite GCS-12 available from Ajinomoto, or potassium cocoyl glycinate such as Ajinomoto's Amilite GCK- 12 can be mentioned.

As the compound of the formula (VI), dihydroxyethyl oleyl glycinate or dihydroxy ethyl stearyl glycinate can be used.

1-5-3. Amphipathic  Surfactants

The amphipathic surfactant is not limited. Amphiphilic or zwitterionic surfactants may be, for example, (non-limiting list), amine derivatives such as aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, and optionally quaternized amine derivatives wherein the aliphatic radicals have from 8 to 22 Is a linear or branched chain comprising one or more carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (e.g., carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate).

Of the amidoamine carboxylate derivatives, those sold under the trade name Miranol, as described in U.S. Patent Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354, and in the CTFA Advance, 1982, 3rd edition (the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference) Carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose,

R ₁ -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R ₂ ) (R ₃ ) (CH ₂ COO ^- )

??? in which: R ₁ denotes an alkyl radical, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical of an acid R ₁ -COOH present in coconut oil is hydrolyzed,

R ₂ represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group,

R ₃ represents a carboxymethyl group; And

R _{1 is} -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (C)

[Wherein B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX '

C represents - (CH ₂ ) _z -Y ', wherein z = 1 or 2,

X 'represents a -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH group, -CH ₂ -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ 'or a hydrogen atom,

Y 'represents -COOH, -COOZ', -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ Z 'or -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ H radicals,

Z 'represents an ion generated from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, for example, an ion of sodium, an ammonium ion or an organic amine,

R ₁ 'is an alkyl radical of an acid R ₁ ' -COOH present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical such as a C ₇ , C ₉ , C ₁₁ or C ₁₃ alkyl radical, a C ₁₇ alkyl radical, Or an isomeric or unsaturated C &lt; ₁₇ &gt; radical thereof.

Amphiphilic surfactant (C ₈ -C ₂₄₎ - alkyl aempo monoacetate, (C ₈ -C ₂₄₎ alkyl Am Fordyce acetate, (C ₈ -C ₂₄₎ alkyl mono aempo propionate, and (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl amphodipropionate.

These compounds include, but are not limited to, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium capryl amphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate , Disodium lauro amphopropionate, disodium capryl amphopropionate, disodium capryl amphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionate, and cocoamphodipropionate.

For example, cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name Miranol ^® C2M concentrate by Rhodia Chimie may be mentioned.

Preferably, the amphipathic surfactant may be betaine.

The betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are preferably selected from alkyl betaines, alkylamido alkyl betaines, alkylsulfobetaines, alkylphosphobetaines and alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, especially (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl betaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₄₎ alkyl amido (C ₁ -C ₈₎ alkyl betaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₄₎ alkyl alcohol Phoebe others and (C ₈ -C ₂₄₎ alkyl amido (C _{1 -} C ₈ ) alkyl sulfobetaine. In an embodiment, the amphiphilic surfactant of the type Beta (C ₈ -C ₂₄₎ alkyl betaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₄₎ alkyl amido (C ₁ -C ₈₎ alkyl alcohol Phoebe others, (C ₈ -C ₂₄₎ alkyl alcohol Phoebe is selected from other alkyl and (C ₈ -C ₂₄₎ phosphine Phoebe others.

Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include CTFA FIRST Ninth Edition 2002 in which coco betaine, lauryl betaine, cetyl betaine, coco / oleamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, palmitamidopropyl betaine, The name of which is stearamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxystetane, oleamidopropyl hydroxysultain, coco hydroxysultain, lauryl hydroxysultain and cocosulphate , &Lt; / RTI &gt; alone or in admixture.

Betaine-type amphoteric surfactants are preferably selected from alkyl betaines and alkylamido alkyl betaines, especially cocobetaine and cocamidopropyl betaine.

When used, the amount of additional surfactant (s) is from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.10% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .

1-5-4. Polyol

The compositions of the present invention may additionally contain one or more polyols. Although a single kind of polyol may be used, two or more different kinds of polyols may be used in combination.

The term "polyol" as used herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not include saccharides or derivatives thereof. Derivatives of sugars include sugar alcohols obtained by reducing at least one carbonyl group of a saccharide, as well as hydrogen atoms or atoms in at least one hydroxy group thereof substituted with one or more substituents such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group &Lt; / RTI &gt; sugars or sugar alcohols.

The polyol may be a C ₂ -C ₁₂ polyol, preferably a C _2-9 polyol, comprising two or more hydroxy groups, preferably two to five hydroxyl groups.

The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

The polyol is preferably selected from the group consisting of glycerin and glycols, more preferably propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin, caprylyl glycol, C ₁ -C ₄₎ ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol, or an alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄₎ ethers of mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and may be selected from the group consisting of and mixtures thereof , And still more preferably the polyol is glycerol and / or butylene glycol.

The polyol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, for example from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

1-5-5. Thickener

The composition of the present invention may further contain one or more thickening agents. A single type of thickener may be used, but two or more different types of thickeners may be used in combination.

The thickener may be selected from the following:

(i) the time of a thickener, one for containing both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, for example, or more C ₈ -C ₃₀ chain fat and an amphiphilic thickener comprising at least one hydrophilic unit;

(ii) a crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer;

(iii) (meth) acrylic acid and (C ₁ -C ₆₎ a cross-linked copolymer of an alkyl acrylate;

(iv) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated ester monomer and an ethylenically unsaturated amide monomer;

(v) ammonium acrylate homopolymers, and copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide;

(vi) C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols;

(vii) (non) modified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the product sold under the name Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) by Goodrich; Polyacrylates;

(viii) polymethacrylates, such as those sold under the trade names Lubrajel and Norgel by Guardian, or sold under the trade name Hispagel by Hispano Chimica;

(ix) optionally a crosslinked polyacrylamide;

(x) neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, such as the poly (2-acrylamidopropyltrimethoxysilane) marketed by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) Amido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid);

(xi) Crosslinked anionic copolymer of acrylamide and AMPS, which is in the form of a W / O emulsion, such as SEPPIC, under the trade name Sepigel 305 (CTFA designation: polyacrylamide / C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin / Sold under the trade name Simulgel 600 (CTFA designation: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80);

(xii) polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, carob gum, acacia gum, scleroglucan, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenan, gellan, alginate;

(xiii) Cellulose, for example microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose; And mixtures thereof, preferably acrylate / C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate crosspolymers such as Carbopol ultrez 20, Carbopol ultrez 21, Permulen TR-1, Permulen TR-2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol ETD 2020, Carbomer such as Synthalen K, carbopol 980, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / stearate-8 methacrylate copolymer such as Aristoflex SNC, acrylate copolymer such as Carbopol Aqua SF-1, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / stearate-25 methacrylate crosspolymer such as Aristoflex HMS, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate, such as Arisfoflex AVC, and xanthan gum such as Keltrol CG that; And

Also any polymer that not only maintains an appropriate viscosity but also makes the capsule suspension very good, also stable in terms of storage life, and contributes to transparency.

The thickening agent is preferably selected from associative thickeners, polysaccharides and (non) modified carboxyvinyl polymers such as starch, xanthan gum and carbomer.

The viscosity of the composition of the present invention is not particularly limited. Viscosity can be measured at 25 캜 using a conical-design geometry viscometer or flow meter. Preferably, the viscosity of the composition of the present invention may be, for example, at 25 ℃ and 1 s ^-1 1 Pa.s to about 2000 Pa.s, preferably from 1 Pa.s to 1000 Pa.s range.

The thickening agent may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001 wt% to 10 wt%, preferably from 0.01 wt% to 10 wt%, and even more preferably from 0.1 wt% to 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

1-5-6. Activator

For application especially for the care or cosmetic of the skin, the compositions of the present invention may contain one or more active agents.

Such actives may be selected from the group consisting of moisturizers, sunscreens / sunblockers, wrinkles, vitamins (e.g. B3, B8, B12 and B9), exfoliants, decolorizing agents, antioxidants and the like.

For example, a moisturizing agent (or humectant) which may be mentioned specifically includes sorbitol, preferably C ₂ -C ₈ and more preferably C ₃ -C ₆ polyhydric alcohol, preferably glycerol, propylene glycol, Diethylene glycol and diglycerol, and mixtures thereof, glycerol and derivatives thereof, glycol ethers (especially those containing 3 to 16 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, be), for example mono, di-or tripropylene glycol (C ₁ -C ₄₎ alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C ₁ -C ₄₎ alkyl ethers, urea and derivatives thereof, Particularly, it is preferable to use a hydrophilic polymer such as Hydrovance (2-hydroxyethyl urea), lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA, sodium pidolate, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate and derivatives thereof, chitosan and derivatives thereof, Collagen, plankton, extracts of Imperata cylindra , marketed by Sederma under the trade name Moist 24, acrylic acid homopolymers such as Lipidure-HM ^® , beta-glucan from NOF Corporation, sodium carboxymethyl Beta-glucan; A mixture of watch colostrum, apricot oil, corn oil and rice bran oil sold under the trade name NutraLipids ^® by Nestle; C-glycoside derivatives such as those described in patent application WO02 / 051828, especially those containing 30% by weight of the active substance in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, such as those manufactured by Chimex under the tradename Mexoryl SBB ^® ; Musk oil sold by Nestle; Marine origin of collagen and chondroitin sulfate spheres sold by Engelhard Lyon under the trade name Marine Filling Spheres (Atelocollagen); Hyaluronic acid spheres, such as those sold by Engelhard Lyon; Arginine, argan oil, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred are glycerol, urea and derivatives thereof, in particular Hydrovance ^® , C-glycoside derivatives sold by National Starch, such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular water / propylene glycol mixtures products made of the C-β-D- xylene in the form comprising the active substance 30% by weight of the seed-pyrano-2-hydroxy propane, for example, from Chimex Inc. under the trade name Mexoryl SBB ^® in 60/40 wt.%) ; Argan oil, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, glycerol will be used.

The humectant (s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, especially 0.5% to 10%, or even 1% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .

A sunscreen (or sunblock) is an important skin-care product for preventing photoaging and skin cancer. There are two groups of sunscreen agents: UVA sunscreens that generally block UV radiation at wavelengths in the range of 320-400 nm, and UVB sunscreens that generally block radiation at wavelengths in the 290-320 nm range.

The compositions according to the present invention comprise organic and / or inorganic UV sunscreen components active in the UVA and / or UVB regions, which are hydrophilic and / or lipophilic. In particular, the UV sunscreen ingredient according to the present invention may have a solubility ranging from 8.0 to 9.5. The UV sunscreen component has an excellent plasticizer function.

Advantageously, the UV sunscreen of the present invention has a molecular weight of from 150 to 500 g / mol, and may contain an electron resonator that binds to the hydrophobic site and the benzene nucleus or polar moiety.

Said hydrophilic and / or lipophilic organic UV sunscreen ingredients particularly include dibenzoylmethane derivatives; Cinnamic acid derivatives; Salicylic acid derivatives; Benzophenone derivatives; ?,? - diphenyl acrylate derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; And mixtures thereof.

As examples of the organic UV sunscreen ingredients, those indicated by the following INCI names may be mentioned:

- para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives:

- PABA,

- Ethyl PABA,

- Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA,

- Ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, especially sold under the trade designation "Escalol 507" by ISP,

- Glyceryl PABA,

- dibenzoylmethane derivatives:

- Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, especially those sold under the trade designation "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann-LaRoche,

- Isopropyl dibenzoyl methane,

- Salicylic acid derivatives:

- Homosalate, sold under the trade designation "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM Industries,

- Ethylhexyl salicylate, sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan OS" by Haarmann and Reimer,

- Dipropylene glycol salicylate, sold under the trade designation "Dipsal" by Scher,

- TEA salicylate, sold under the trade designation "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer,

- cinnamic acid derivatives:

- Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, especially those sold under the trade name "Parsol MCX" from Hoffmann-LaRoche,

- Isopropylmethoxy cinnamate,

- Isoamyl methoxy cinnamate sold by Haarmann and Reimer under the trade designation "Neo Heliopan E 1000 "

- Synoxate,

- DEA methoxycinnamate,

- Diisopropylmethyl cinnamate,

- Glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxy cinnamate,

-?,? - diphenyl acrylate derivatives:

- Octocrylene, especially sold under the trade designation "Uvinul N539" by BASF,

- Ethocrylene, especially sold under the trade designation "Uvinul N35" by BASF,

- benzophenone derivatives:

- Benzophenone-1, sold under the trade designation "Uvinul 400" by BASF,

- Benzophenone-2, sold under the trade designation "Uvinul D50" by BASF,

- Benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, sold under the trade designation "Uvinul M40" by BASF,

- Benzophenone-4, sold under the trade designation "Uvinul MS40" by BASF,

- Benzophenone-5,

- Benzophenone-6, sold under the trade name "Helisorb 11" from Norquay,

And mixtures thereof.

Preferred UV sunscreen ingredients are selected from the group consisting of cinnamic acid derivatives, beta, beta -diphenylacrylate derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof.

Preferred UV sunscreen ingredients are selected from the group consisting of ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene and ethylhexyl salicylate and mixtures thereof.

Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate sold under the trade name UVINUL MC 80 ^® by BASF, ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN OS ^® by SYMRISE, octocrylene sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN 303 ^® by SYMRISE, It can be specially mentioned.

The composition of the present invention may be present in an amount of from 0.1% to 30%, such as from 0.5% to 20%, such as from 1% to 15% by weight, such as 1% May contain a barrier agent component.

Anti-wrinkle agents: ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; Tocopherol and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; Nicotinic acid and its precursors such as nicotinamide; Ubiquinone; Glutathione and its precursors such as L-2-oxothiazolidin-4-carboxylic acid; Especially C-glycoside compounds and derivatives thereof, as described below: extracts of plants, in particular sea fennel and extracts of olive leaves; And also plant proteins and hydrolyzates thereof, such as rice or soy protein hydrolyzate; Algae extract, especially kelp extract; Bacterial extract; Sapogenins, such as diosgenin and the extracts of the domesticated plants containing it, especially wild yams; ? -hydroxy acid; beta -hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid; Oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and their acyl derivatives, in particular the {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethylphenyl) amino] -3-methylbutyrylamino} acetic acid, sold under the trade names Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000 by Sederma Lipid peptides; Lycopene; Manganese salts and magnesium salts, especially manganese and magnesium gluconate; And mixtures thereof may be mentioned;

Release agents: beta-hydroxy acids, especially salicylic acid and derivatives thereof other than 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid; Urea; Glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); An extract of Saphora japonica ; honey; N-acetylglucosamine; Sodium methylglycine diacetate, alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), and mixtures thereof;

Decolorizing agents: ceramides, vitamin C and derivatives thereof, especially vitamin CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C, alpha-and beta-arbutin, ferulic acid, nourishing acid, resorcinol and derivatives thereof, calcium D-pantethene sulfonate , lipoic acid, ellagic geusan, vitamin B3, phenylethyl resorcinol, e.g., Symrise Inc. Symwhite 377 ^®, the amount of Actinidia (Actinidia chinensis) juice, L Pioneer Surf look Tycho four (Paeonia sold by Gattefosse suffructicosa) of the root extract, for example, sold in the extract, e.g. Taiyo Kagaku Corporation product, brown sugar (sugar cane), sold by Ichimaru Pharcos Co. under the trade name Botanpi Liquid B ^® under the trade name Molasses Liquid molasses extract, undecylenic Mixtures of acids and undecylenoyl phenylalanines, such as Sepiwhite MSH ^® from Seppic may be mentioned;

Antioxidants: more particularly tocopherol and its esters, especially tocopheryl acetate; EDTA, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, especially magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; Chelating agents such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

These active agents may be present in the composition in an amount of from 0.001 wt% to 20 wt%, preferably from 0.01 wt% to 10 wt%, more preferably from 0.01 wt% to 5 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

1-6. Preparation and properties of compositions

The composition of the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above components according to a conventional process. Conventional processes include mixing using a high pressure homogenizer (high energy process). Alternatively, the composition may be prepared by a low-energy process, such as phase inversion temperature process (PIT), phase inversion (PIC), self-emulsification, and the like. Preferably, the composition is prepared by a low energy process.

The ratio of nonionic surfactant to oil may be from 0.25 to 6, preferably from 0.3 to 3, more preferably from 0.4 to 1.5.

The compositions of the present invention are in the form of nano- or micro-emulsions. "Micro-emulsion" can be referred to in two ways, broad meaning and negotiation meaning. In other words, there is one case ("synergistic micro-emulsion") that refers to a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase comprising a ternary system having three components: an oil component, an aqueous component and a surfactant, Among the unstable typical emulsion systems, there are other cases where micro-emulsions additionally include emulsions which exhibit a transparent or translucent appearance due to their smaller particle size (Satoshi Tomomasa, et al., Oil Chemistry, Vol. 37, No. 11 (1988), pp.48-53). As used herein, the term "micro-emulsion" refers to a "micro-emulsion of conventions", ie a thermodynamically stable isotropic single liquid phase.

Micro-emulsions are microemulsions of O / W (oil-in-water) type in which the oil is solubilized by micelles, microemulsions of W / O (water in water) type in which water is solubilized by reverse micelles, Refers to any state of a bicontinuous microemulsion in which the number of molecules of association is infinite and both the aqueous phase and the oil phase have a continuous structure.

The micro-emulsion may have a dispersed phase having a number average diameter of 100 nm or less, preferably 50 nm or less, more preferably 20 nm or less, as measured by a laser microparticle measurement method.

The term "nano-emulsion" herein is characterized by a dispersed phase having a size of less than 350 nm, and emulsions in which the dispersed phase is stabilized by a crown of a nonionic surfactant capable of arbitrarily forming a layered liquid crystal phase at the dispersed phase / . In the absence of a particular milky body, the transparency of the nano-emulsion is due to the small size of the dispersed phase, and such small size is obtained using mechanical energy and especially a high pressure homogenizer.

Nano-emulsions can be distinguished from micro-emulsions due to their structure. In particular, micro-emulsions are thermodynamically stable dispersions formed from non-ionic surfactant micelles that are expanded, for example, by oil. In addition, micro-emulsions do not require significant mechanical energy to make.

The micro-emulsion may have a dispersed phase having a number-average diameter of 300 nm or less, preferably 200 nm or less, more preferably 150 nm or less as measured by a laser microparticle measurement method.

The compositions of the present invention may be in the form of O / W nano- or micro-emulsions, W / O nano- or micro-emulsions or a combination of continuous emulsions. Preferably, the compositions of the present invention are in the form of O / W nano- or micro-emulsions.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention may be in the form of an O / W emulsion. In this case, the oil may be in the form of droplets having a number average particle size of 300 nm or less, preferably 10 nm to 200 nm, more preferably 20 nm to 150 nm.

The average size of the droplets on the oil is measured by optical diffraction using a Mastersizer 2000 particle sizer (sold by Malvern Instruments). Such measurements are carried out on emulsions diluted with a 1% solution of water in SDS (sodium dodecylsulfate). The computer program makes it possible to obtain volume average diameter D [4.3] ([mu] m) (see Malvern Instruments Handbook, p.61-67, December 1998).

The average size D [4.3] (mu m) of the oil phase droplets of the composition of the present invention is in the range of 10 nn to 150 nm, more preferably 20 nm to 140 nm.

The compositions of the present invention are particularly stable, especially at room temperature under atmospheric pressure and even at 37 ° C or 45 ° C for 2 months, and exhibit optimal cosmetic properties. Indeed, the compositions of the present invention exhibit adequate fluidity; It is easy to handle, and it is easy to apply and spread on the skin.

The compositions also exhibit the texture required for cosmetic use: they are non-sticky and provide a soft, resilient feel to the touch. Thus, the compositions of the present invention also have the advantage of meeting consumer expectations in cosmetics, such as lower viscosity and better flexibility.

The composition of the present invention may be a "color-changing composition ". The term "color-changing composition" means that the color before application is different from that after application and such difference is visible to the naked eye.

In particular, this color-changing composition may be related to the color-difference DELTA E (pre-application / post-DELTA E) values under the CIE Lab system 1976. The ΔE is defined by the following equation:

[Equation 1]

Wherein L ₁ , a ₁ , b ₁ are parameters in the color space of the first color (composition before application), L ₂ , a ₂ , b ₂ are the second color (after application on keratin materials and after homogenization Composition). The value can be measured using a spectrophotometer or chroma sphere (for the composition applied on the skin). The color changing composition according to the present invention may be characterized in that it has a pre-application / post-application DELTA E of more than 1, in particular of 2 or more, preferably of 3 or more.

The composition of the present invention may have a clear or slightly translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance. In other words, the composition of the present invention contains microcapsules containing the emissive colorant (s) in the transparent medium.

Transparency can be measured by measuring the transmittance using an absorption spectrometer in the visible light region (for example, transparency was measured as an average of visible light transmittance (400 to 800 nm) using V-550 (JASCO) with 2 mm width cells ). Measurements are made in the undiluted composition. Blank is determined using distilled water.

The composition of the present invention preferably has a transparency of more than 50%, preferably more than 60%, more preferably more than 70%, even more preferably more than 75%.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises microcapsules; Preferably, the outer layer is an uncolored microcapsule that is white or transparent, and the inner layer visible when the outer layer is transparent is white. For purposes of the present invention, the term "transparent composition" means a composition that transmits at least 40% light at a wavelength of 750 nm without light scattering, i.e. a composition wherein the scattering angle of light is less than 50 degrees, and more preferably about 5 degrees. The transparent composition can transmit at least 50%, especially at least 60%, in particular at least 70%, of light at a wavelength of 750 nm.

Light transmission measurements are performed using a Varian Cary 300 Scan UV-Visible spectrometer according to the following protocol:

The composition is poured into a square-side spectrophotometer cuvette with a side length of 10 mm;

The sample of the composition is then maintained in a thermostatically controlled chamber at 20 DEG C for 24 hours;

The light transmitted through the sample of the composition is then scanned on the spectrometer at a wavelength in the range of 700 nm to 800 nm and the measurement proceeds in the transmission mode;

- Next, the percentage of light transmitted through the sample of the composition at a wavelength of 750 nm is determined.

When the transparent composition is located at 0.01 m in front of the black line having a thickness of 2 mm and drawn on a blank sheet, the line is visible; In contrast, the hazy composition, i.e., the non-transparent composition, does not show the above line.

The composition of the present invention, preferably a makeup foundation or a skin coloring product, provides a strong moisturizing feeling, a creamy texture that is very comfortable during application, and a natural cremation result that is so thin that after application, In the end, all of these features help convey a very good balance of cosmetic effects (proper coverage and natural shine) as well as skin care efficacy (creaminess and moisturizing). The composition of the present invention may also exhibit an ultraviolet blocking effect. Advantageously, the microcapsules are deformable in the presence of an aqueous phase. Advantageously, the microcapsules within the composition can rupture under pressure upon application to the keratinous material.

2. Methods and uses

The present invention also relates to cosmetic methods for applying the compositions described above to the skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows or scalp.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition for the treatment of body and / or facial skin and / or mucosa and / or scalp and / or hair and / or nail and / or eyelash and / As a cosmetic-removing product, or the use of the composition described therein.

In other words, the composition of the present invention can be used as such by itself. Alternatively, the composition of the present invention can be used as a component of the above product. For example, the compositions of the present invention may be added to or combined with any other component to produce the product.

Such compositions are prepared according to conventional methods. Such a type of composition may be in the form of a face and / or body care or cosmetic product, and may be conditioned, for example, in the form of a cream in a container or a tube or a pump-operating bottle.

In certain embodiments, the composition contains one or more neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers and one polysaccharide biopolymer.

The term "transparent aqueous medium" refers to a medium that allows light to pass through without causing diffraction or reflections to escape. The transparency of the aqueous medium can be measured using a turbidimeter. The HACH Corp. 2100P Portable Turbidimeter Model ^®, for example, be used to measure the transparency of the composition. The composition is considered transparent when the measured turbidity value is between 0 and 250 NTU, and the turbidity value between 250 and 1000 NTU is considered to be translucent.

When the composition is placed in front of a thick black line of 2 mm diameter drawn on a white sheet, this black line appears, whereas, on the contrary, a cloudy composition, i.e. a non-transparent composition, does not allow it. The compositions of the present invention preferably contain multiple layers of microcapsules comprising water and releasable colorant (s) and water. In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention contain one or more hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents and one or more water softening agent (s) and / or lipid (s) having polar regions. In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention contain at least two different multi-layer microcapsules comprising an emissive colorant (s).

The microcapsules can be introduced at the final stage with weak agitation without damage to the microcapsules after the gel is formed.

The transparent composition obtained as described above having a microcapsule exhibits a clear and clean appearance and exhibits a clear appearance at room temperature (25 ° C, 2 months), 37 ° C (2 months) and 45 ° C 2 months). Microcapsules emit pigments during application while not allowing any particles to feel. The makeup results are perfect and even after application.

The composition of the present invention is preferably transparent and may be slightly colored. In such a case, the composition of the present invention preferably contains at least one non-trapping colorant in an amount of less than 1% by weight based on the total weight of the total composition.

The compositions of the present invention may also be in the form of a gelatinous cream, or an emulsified gel containing an oil and a surfactant.

In another embodiment, the invention relates to a kit comprising one of the above defined products and an applicator. The applicator may be selected from commonly used applicators.

The composition of the present invention can be applied, for example, with a finger or with an applicator. The container may preferably be used in combination with an applicator comprising one or more application components disposed to apply the composition to the keratinous material.

Such compositions include predominantly water, one or more non-volatile oils, one or more O / W emulsifiers, and microcapsules.

It is to be understood that throughout the specification, "comprising" and "containing" are synonyms for "comprising one or more"

The terms " ... to ... "and" to ... "should be understood to include the limits unless otherwise specified.

The present invention is further illustrated by the following examples. Unless otherwise stated, the indicated amount is expressed as a mass percentage of the active material.

Example

The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

Formulation Example

(1) Preparation of composition

Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were formulated according to the following steps:

An oil phase (mixture of ethylhexyl palmitate + polyglyceryl-5-laurate + preservative) was prepared and the oil phase was heated to around 75 ° C. Subsequently, an aqueous phase (water + Na methyl stearyl taurate + glycerin + butylene glycol) was prepared, and the aqueous phase was heated to around 75 ° C. The aqueous phase was then added to the oil phase. After emulsification was complete, a thickener phase (acrylate / _C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) was added to the mixture. The mixture was then cooled to room temperature. For Example 1, MAGIC30-BW0105 was added to the mixture at room temperature.

Comparative Example 2 was formulated according to the following steps:

An aqueous phase (water + glycerin + butylene glycol) was prepared, and the aqueous phase was heated to around 75 캜. A thickener phase (acrylate / _C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) was added to the mixture. The mixture was then cooled to room temperature. To the mixture was added MAGIC30-BW0105 at room temperature.

(2) Evaluation of technical effect

(i) Observation (appearance)

Appearance was evaluated by visual observation.

(ii) MAGIC30-BW0105 Transparency for Bulk in Absence

Transparency was measured using a V-550 (JASCO) with 2 mm wide cells. Transparency = average of visible (400 to 800 nm) transmittance.

(iii) particle size

Particle size was measured with VASCO-2 (CORDOUAN TECHNOLOGIES) under non-diluted conditions. An average diameter can be obtained by specifying the intensity with a computer program.

(iv) Coverage

The applied color was measured on black Bioskin ^® at a thickness of 1 mg / cm ³ . The value is given by? L *. The lower the? L * value, the greater the coverage achieved.

(v) sensory test

To evaluate the cosmetic properties, a sensory test was conducted by five professional panels. The panels evaluated each composition in five grades in terms of flexibility and moisture.

flexibility

5: Very flexible

4: pretty flexible

3: relatively flexible

2: Not flexible

1: Not very flexible (skin feels rather stiffer)

Moistness

5: Very moist

4: Pretty Moist

3: Relatively moist

2: Not moist

1: Not very moist

As apparent from the above results, it has been found that the cosmetic composition in the form of an O / W emulsion according to the present invention has a smaller oil droplet and provides an embodiment with better transparency in the presence of microcapsules.

Comparative Example 1 is a formulation as compared with Example 1, and Comparative Example 1 has no microcapsule. From the comparison between Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, it can be deduced that Example 1 according to the present invention formed a transparent gel in the presence of microcapsules, and transparency is equivalent to a formulation without microcapsules. The particle size of Example 1 is less than 150 nm and the composition is a nano emulsion.

Comparative Example 2 is a formulation of an aqueous transparent gel. This means that Example 1 (transparent nano-emulsion gel) is superior to Comparative Example 2 (transparent aqueous gel) in terms of coverage and sensory properties (flexibility and moisturizing).

Claims (22)

A composition in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion containing:
(a) at least one lipid phase;
(b) at least one nonionic surfactant;
(c) one or more microcapsules comprising an emissive colorant (s); And
(d) one or more aqueous phases. The method according to claim 1,
o / w emulsion. 3. The method according to claim 1 or 2,
Preferably glycerol and glycol, more preferably propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin, caprylyl glycol, glycol ether, preferably alkyl mono (C ₁ -C ₄₎ ether, di- or tripropylene glycol, or an alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄₎ ethers of mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and is selected from the group consisting of a mixture thereof, Even more preferably, the composition further comprises at least one polyol wherein the polyol is glycerol and / or butylene glycol. 4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3,
Wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of mono- or polyoxyalkylene fatty acid esters, polyglyceryl fatty ester surfactants, and fatty acids esters of sugars, particularly sucrose. 5. The method of claim 4,
Wherein the polyglyceryl fatty ester has a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 4 to 6 glycerol, more preferably 5 or 6 glycerol. 6. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5,
Wherein the amount of the nonionic surfactant is 0.1 wt% to 30 wt%, preferably 0.5 wt% to 15 wt%, more preferably 1 wt% to 10 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition. 7. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6,
Wherein the fat phase comprises an oil phase and wherein the oil is a hydrocarbon selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, animal oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils, preferably ester oils, ether oils, alkane oils, triglyceride oils An oil, even more preferably an oil having a molecular weight of less than 700. 8. The method of claim 7,
Wherein the amount of oil is from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8,
(I) a associative thickener; (ii) a crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer; (iii) (meth) acrylic acid and (C ₁ -C ₆₎ a cross-linked copolymer of an alkyl acrylate; (iv) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers containing one or more ethylenically unsaturated ester monomers and ethylenically unsaturated amide monomers; (v) copolymers of ammonium acrylate homopolymers and ammonium acrylates and acrylamides; (vi) C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols; (vii) a (non) modified carboxyvinyl polymer; (viii) polymethacrylate; (ix) optionally a crosslinked, polyacrylamide; (x) neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers; (xi) crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS in the form of W / O emulsions; (xii) polysaccharide biopolymer; (xiii) a composition further comprising a thickener selected from the group consisting of cellulose, more preferably a thickener selected from the group consisting of (i) a concomitant thickener, (vii) a (modified) carboxyvinyl polymer, and (ix) a polysaccharide . 10. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9,
Wherein the water is present in an amount ranging from 5% to 99% by weight, preferably from 10% to 95% by weight, and even more preferably from 15% to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10,
Wherein the microcapsule comprises:
(A) a core containing one organic material, preferably a non-colored core, and
(B) at least one laminate coating surrounding the core, wherein the laminate coating comprises at least one polymer, at least one colorant, and advantageously at least one binder. 12. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 11,
(C) microcapsules in an amount of from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 2% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 13. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 12,
Wherein the core of the microcapsule (c) is selected from the group consisting of a monosaccharide or a derivative thereof, particularly a monosaccharide-polyol selected from the group consisting of monosaccharide-polyol, advantageously mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, Preferably, the composition contains mannitol. 14. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 13,
Wherein the microcapsule (c) comprises at least the following:
- an inner core made of a monosaccharide-polyol, preferably mannitol,
- two or more layers of different colors,
Preferably from polysaccharides or derivatives thereof, more preferably from starch or derivatives thereof, advantageously one or more lipidic substances, preferably amphipathic compounds, more preferably phospholipids, even more preferably hydrogenated And phosphoacyl glycerol, such as lecithin. 15. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 14,
Wherein the microcapsule (c) comprises:
a) the core (A), preferably less than 800 탆, more preferably less than about 400 탆, advantageously between 1 탆 and 300 탆, particularly between 5 탆 and 200 탆, even more particularly between 10 탆 and 100 탆 Preferably no more than one colorant, and is preferably a monosaccharide selected from the group consisting of one or more sugar alcohols, preferably monosaccharide-polyols, advantageously mannitol, erythritol, xylitol and sorbitol - a core (A) containing at least one organic core selected from polyols;
b) one first layer (B) surrounding the core, comprising:
At least one colorant, preferably iron oxide (s), and
A binder selected from the group consisting of polymeric and lipidic materials, preferably mixtures thereof;
c) one second layer (C) surrounding said first layer (B), said layer (C) having the following properties, preferably having a thickness of from 5 μm to 500 μm:
- titanium dioxide particles, and
A binder selected from the group consisting of polymeric and lipidic materials, preferably mixtures thereof;
d) optionally, one third layer (D) surrounding said second layer (C)
At least one colorant, and
A binder selected from the group consisting of polymeric and lipidic materials, preferably mixtures thereof;
e) optionally, the third layer (D), if present, or one fourth layer (E), surrounding the second layer (C)
(Poly) (alkyl) (meth) acrylic acid and its derivatives, especially (poly) (alkyl) (meth) acrylates and derivatives thereof, from polyesters such as cellulose derivatives, especially cellulose ethers and cellulose esters At least one wall-forming polymer selected from alkyl acryl / alkyl methacrylic acid copolymers and derivatives thereof. 16. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 15,
Wherein the microcapsules within the composition are capable of tearing under pressure when applied to a keratinous material. 17. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 16,
The core is present in an amount of 10 to 90% by weight, preferably 20 to 80% by weight, more preferably 30 to 70% by weight, still more preferably 40 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the microcapsules % &Lt; / RTI &gt; 18. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 17,
20 to 90% by weight, preferably 30 to 80% by weight, based on the microcapsules, of the colorant; In particular from 50% to 75% by weight. 19. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 18,
The colorant present in the microcapsule is selected from the group consisting of inorganic pigments, organic pigments and mixtures thereof, preferably one or more inorganic pigments, more preferably one or more mixtures of inorganic pigments, still more preferably a metal oxide , In particular iron oxide (s), titanium dioxide particles and mixtures thereof, preferably mixtures thereof. 11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10,
The microcapsules
(A) has a size preferably in the range of from 20 μm to 800 μm, contains at least one colorant and preferably at least one binder, and preferably the colorant (s) is A core containing one or more inorganic pigments selected, and
(B) a pressure-rupturable wall layer surrounding said core, said layer containing at least one colorant and preferably at least one binder, said colorant (s) preferably containing at least titanium dioxide particles,
Wherein the microcapsule comprises at least 70% by weight of the colorant (s) based on the total weight of the microcapsules. 21. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 20,
Wherein at least one layer of the microcapsules is obtained by a fluidized bed process. A method for the care and / or make-up of a keratinous substance, in particular to the skin, comprising applying the composition of any one of claims 1 to 21 to the skin.

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