KR20130062537A - Permanent wave and straightener composition comprising acetyl cysteine and iso-octyl thioglycolate in the first agent - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: A composition for permanent wave and a straightener, containing acetyl cysteine and isooctyl thioglycolate in a reducing first agent is provided to reduce hair damage and scalp irritation, to style stable and elastic wave and straight hair, and to improve persistence. CONSTITUTION: A composition for permanent wave and a straightener contains a reducing first agent and an oxidative second agent, or the reducing first agent. The reducing first agent contains 0.1-10.0 wt% of acetyl cysteine and isooctyl thioglycolate mixed in a weight ratio of 10:1-1:10. The composition has pH 6.5-9.5. The reducing first agent contains 0.001-10.0 wt% of an alkaline chemical. [Reference numerals] (AA) Cysteine bond; (BB) After treating with a first agent; (CC) After treating with a second agent

Description

Permanent wave and straightener composition comprising acetyl cysteine and iso-octyl thioglycolate in the first agent

The present invention relates to a composition for permanent wave and straightener containing acetylcysteine and isooctyl thioglycolate in a first agent.

Permanent wave preparations that wave and straighten hair are generally a reducing first agent containing chioglycolic acid or salts thereof and reducing substances of esters, cysteines or salts thereof and acetyl derivatives to reduce cystine bonds in the hair, and to hydrogen peroxide. Alkaline, penetrant, stabilizer, wetting agent, wool agent, colorant, emulsifier, fragrance, etc. are used to form wave by oxidative recombination and increase the effect and usability by oxidative second agent containing oxidizing substance of water or sodium bromide [ 1 and 2].

According to the subject matter and the usage of the reducing first agent, a cold two-bath permanent wave agent mainly composed of thioglycolic acid or a salt thereof, cysteine and a cold two-bath permanent wave agent mainly composed of salts and acetyl cysteine, thioglycolic acid or the like Heated two-bath permanent wave agent mainly containing salt, cysteine and warmed two-bath permanent wave agent mainly containing salt and acetyl cysteine, for cold two-bath type shaft correction, chioglycolic acid mainly composed of thioglycolic acid or salts thereof Or a heated exothermic two-permanent wave agent, thioglycolic acid or salt thereof, which is prepared when a cold one-bath permanent wave agent mainly containing the salt thereof, chioglycolic acid, or a salt-based one agent is used. For high temperature hairdressing, based on the treatment of bath hairs, chioglycolic acid or salts thereof Is divided into two yoksik warmed using a hot air balloon, and the formulation apparently be classified as a liquid, a lotion, cream.

These permanent wave preparations and straighteners are caused by the reduction of hair keratin bonds by the reducing agent and the oxidant by reducing cutting and oxidative recombination, causing the damage of the scalp and the damage of the hair. There is a bad smell by.

On the other hand, many active ingredients such as vitamins have been developed to alleviate the scalp irritation, improve the stable and elastic wave formation and sustainability within a short time, and reduce bad smell after the procedure, even with or without heat, but these components are permanent wave Degradation by the reducing and oxidizing agents of the formulations and straighteners or destruction by alkaline agents makes it impossible to mix and use in permanent wave and straightener formulations. Therefore, in order to increase the effectiveness of the previous studies, W / O type emulsification, liposomes, and microcapsules were selected and formulated, but their effectiveness was not secured.

In other words, the permanent wave and straightener formulations have hair damage and scalp irritation and have a bad smell after use. Therefore, there is an urgent need for the development of a new composition of permanent wave and straightener formulations to alleviate these disadvantages.

Accordingly, the present inventors relieve hair damage and irritation to the scalp, and form a stable and elastic wave in a short time and improve the sustainability even with or without heat, significantly reduce bad odor after the procedure, daily life As a result of research efforts to develop a composition for permanent wave and straightener having excellent efficacy as a cosmetic that is used in cosmetics, acetylcysteine and isooctyl thioglycolate are added to the permanent wave and straightener reducing agent. When used in a weight ratio of 10, it can alleviate hair damage and scalp irritation, form stable and elastic waves and straight lines in a short time regardless of usage, dose or hot hairstyling hot air balloon, and have good sustainability. Found to significantly reduce bad odor after procedure This completes the present invention.

Therefore, an object of the present invention is to relieve or repair hair damage and scalp irritation significantly and reduce bad odor after the procedure, and to provide a stable and elastic wave and straightener composition in a fast time.

In the composition for permanent wave and straightener which consists of a reducing 1st agent and an oxidizing 2nd agent or a reducing 1st agent,

And a composition for permanent wave and straightener, wherein the reducing first agent comprises acetylcysteine and isooctyl thioglycolate in a weight ratio of 10: 1 to 1:10.

The composition for permanent wave and straighteners according to the present invention is used by mixing acetylcysteine and isooctyl thioglycolate in a specific ratio with a reducing first agent, thereby reducing hair damage and scalp irritation, and being stable and elastic regardless of the use of heat. In addition to forming a wave and a straight, there is an effect that the durability is improved.

Figure 1 shows the mechanism by which the reducing material is applied to the hair.
Figure 2 schematically shows the mechanism by which the wave effect on the hair.
3 shows a plan view of a test apparatus for measuring wave formation efficiency.
Figure 4 shows a side view of the test apparatus for measuring the wave formation efficiency.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

The present invention can relieve damage and irritation to hair and scalp, and form a stable and elastic wave in a short time even with or without heat, as well as improving its sustainability and significantly reducing the original bad smell after the procedure. The present invention relates to a composition for permanent wave and straightener, characterized by mixing acetylcysteine and isooctyl thioglycolate in a specific ratio with a reducing first agent to obtain a permanent wave and straightener formulation.

Generally, the permanent wave preparation is composed of a reducing first agent including a reducing agent and an alkali agent, a thickening agent, a metal blocking agent, and the like, and an oxidizing second agent including an oxidizing agent, a thickening agent, a pH adjusting agent, a metal blocking agent, and the like.

Conventional permanent wave and straighteners include a reducing first agent and an oxidizing second agent regardless of the liquid type, and the reducing first agent may include a reducing agent, an alkali agent, a thickener, and a metal blocking agent, and has a pH of 6.5 to It is characterized by a range of 9.5.

In the case of the conventional permanent wave and straightener reducing first agent, the hair is swelled in the alkaline region by adjusting the pH of the reducing first agent to 6.5 to 9.5 using an alkaline agent as an essential component to give the hair a wave and straightening effect. Phenomena occur, and thus, the swollen hair is easily damaged, and the oxidative components remaining in the swollen hair cause bad odors and the scalp due to strong alkalinity is remarkably generated. .

It is preferable that acetylcysteine and isooctyl thioglycolate are mixed and contained in the reducing first agent of the permanent wave and straightener composition according to the present invention in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1, and the total weight of the first agent composition It is characterized by containing 0.1-10.0 weight% with respect to the.

When less than 0.1% by weight of acetylcysteine and isooctyl thioglycolet contained in such a reducing first agent is less than 0.1% by weight of the total composition of the first agent, it is impossible to exert wave and straight force, and when it exceeds 10.0% by weight, hair damage and Scalp irritation, bad odor is uncomfortable to use and can not expect the effect is undesirable.

As set forth above, the permanent wave and straightener reducing first agent of the present invention contains acetylcysteine and isooctyl thioglycolate in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 100 compared to the conventional permanent wave and straightener reducing first agent. And from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the first agent composition, and the other components include components of the existing permanent wave and the straightener reducing first agent.

The acetylcysteine and isooctyl thioglycolate are more preferably mixed in a weight ratio of 0.5: 1 to 1: 0.5, and are contained simultaneously in 1.0 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the first agent composition.

On the other hand, the permanent wave and straightener reducing first agent of the present invention, in addition to the above-mentioned components, is usually a reducing agent, alkali agent, thickener, flavoring agent, surfactant, hair protectant, stabilizer, humectant, metal blocker, colorant, emulsifier, purified water In particular, the reducing agent may contain one or a mixture of two or more selected from thioglycolic acid, salts of thioglycolic acid, thioglycolic acid esters, cysteine, salts of cysteine and acetyl derivatives of cysteine. Preferably, 0.1-18.0 weight% of thioglycolic acid, 0.1-11.0 weight% of cysteine, More preferably, 1.0-9.0 weight% of thioglycolic acid, and 3.0- cysteine, based on the total weight of the first agent composition It is preferable to contain in the range of 7.5% by weight.

At this time, if less than 0.1 wt% of thioglycolic acid and less than 0.1 wt% of cysteine are contained as a reducing agent in the perming wave and straightener reducing agent, there is a problem in curl and straight due to less reducing power, and 18.0 wt% of thioglycolic acid. When the amount of cysteine exceeds 11.0% by weight, there is a problem of hair damage, which is not preferable.

As the alkali agent, at least one selected from ammonia water, amino alcohols, basic amino acids and carbonates is contained in an amount of 0.001 to 10.0% by weight based on the total weight of the first agent composition, so that the pH of the first agent is 6.5 to 9.5, preferably pH. Is 7.0 to 8.0. If the pH of the first agent containing such an alkali agent is less than 6.5, the hair is not swelled and there is a problem in curling and straight. When the pH exceeds 9.5, the effect may be enhanced, but there is a problem in hair damage and scalp irritation.

The surfactant may be selected from polysorbate, sodium lauryl sulfate, cetearese, steares and the like, and is preferably used in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

As the hair protecting agent, quaternary ammonium salts, polyquaterniums, and the like can be selected and used, and it is preferable to use 0.05 to 1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

As the stabilizer, carbomers, celluloses, citric acid and salts thereof, phosphoric acid and salts thereof can be selected and used, and it is preferable to use 0.1 to 3% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Glycerin, propylene glycol, urea, glycerin, butylene glycol, and the like can be selected and used as the moisturizing agent, and it is preferable to use 3 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

As the metal blocking agent, etidronic acid, sodium eddronate, disodium ethane, tetrasodium ethane and the like can be selected and used, and it is preferable to use 0.1 to 3% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. .

Such permanent wave and straightener reducing first agents are typically usable with oxidizing second agents used in the art.

The oxidizing second agent included in the present invention and used together with the reducing first agent contains 0.1 to 20.0% by weight of at least one selected from hydrogen peroxide, sodium bromide, potassium bromide, and sodium perborate as oxidizing agents. Preferably, hydrogen peroxide (35%) is 0.1 to 9.0% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 8.5% by weight, and 2.0 to 20.0% by weight of an oxidizing agent selected from sodium bromide, potassium bromide and sodium perborate, preferably 5.0 to It is contained in 10.0 weight% range. If the oxidizing agent contains less than 0.1% by weight of hydrogen peroxide (35%) in the second agent, and less than 2.0% by weight of an oxidizing agent selected from sodium bromide, potassium bromide, and sodium perborate, there is a problem in fixing curl and straight. If the number of hydrogen peroxides (35%) is 9.0% by weight, and the oxidizing agent selected from sodium bromide, potassium bromide, and sodium perborate exceeds 20.0 weight percent, there is a problem of hair damage, which is not preferable. The pH adjusting agent contains a pH adjusting agent selected from one or more selected from organic acids such as phosphoric acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid and sodium phosphate so that the pH of the second agent is 2.0 to 10.5, preferably 2.5 to 9.6. If the pH of the second agent containing such a pH adjuster is less than 2.0, there is a problem in fixation of curls and straights. If the pH exceeds 10.5, there are problems in fixation of curls and straights, hair damage and scalp irritation.

The oxidative second agent described above may contain, in addition to the above-mentioned composition components, other components usually contained, for example, perfumes, surfactants, hair protectors, penetrants, stabilizers, wetting agents, colorants, emulsifiers, and the like.

In addition, the component which can be used for the composition for a permanent wave and a straightener can be suitably selected by the person skilled in the art as needed at the level which does not impair the objective of this invention.

The composition for permanent wave and straighteners according to the present invention as described above relieves, protects and recovers irritation to the hair and scalp, remarkably relieves hair damage and scalp irritation, and resilient within a fast time in an acidic region even with or without heat. It not only forms waves and straight lines, but also improves sustainability and significantly reduces bad odor after the procedure.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3: Preparation of a reducing first agent

Next, the components and the amount of use shown in Table 1 were mixed to prepare a permanent wave and a straightener reducing first agent.

division Reducing first agent used amount (% by weight) Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Compare to 3 Compare to 3 Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 0.50 - 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Polyquaternium-10 0.50 0.50 0.50 - 0.50 0.50 Carbomer 0.50 0.50 - 0.50 - 0.50 glycerin 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Ethedonic acid 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Propylene glycol 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 L-cysteine hydrochloride - - - 7.00 7.00 - Thioglycolic acid - - - 2.00 2.00 14.00 Acetylcysteine 3.00 5.00 3.00 - - - Isooctyl thioglate 3.00 3.00 5.00 - - - Element 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Monoethanolamine 4.50 4.20 4.20 5.00 5.00 3.80 Polysorbate 20 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Flavoring agent 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Purified water 70.10 66.90 70.10 70.80 70.80 70.80

Experimental Example: Preparation of the composition for permanent wave and straightener

Using the permanent wave and the straightener reducing first agent according to the present invention prepared in Examples 1 to 3 and the reducing first agent for the permanents of Comparative Examples 1 to 3, and the oxidizing second agent as shown in Table 2 And the composition for the permanent wave and straightener was prepared by the amount used.

division The amount of oxidizing second agent (% by weight) Reference Example 1 Reference Example 2 glycerin 1.00 1.00 Propylene glycol 2.00 2.00 Ethedonic acid 0.10 0.10 Phosphoric Acid 0.05 0.01 Sodium phosphate 0.20 0.10 Polysorbate (80) 1.00 1.00 Flavoring agent 0.10 0.10 Hydrogen peroxide (35%) 6.00 - Sodium bromate - 7.00 Purified water To 100 To 100

① wave formation efficiency test

The wave formation efficiency measurement was measured by the wave formation test apparatus of FIGS. 3 and 4 by the Kirby method.

A bundle of 15-20 cm long healthy hair Swatch was fixed on one side of the plastic instrument of FIG. 3 and alternately zigzagd to the pin rod to secure the other side. The hair fixed to the pin bar was put into the shalet containing the reducing agent solution of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-3, and left to stand in a 25 degreeC thermostat for 20 minutes. After standing, the apparatus was taken out of the schare, washed with the reducing first liquid with running water, and then placed in a chalet containing an oxidizing second liquid, and left in a 25 ° C. thermostat for 20 minutes. After leaving, the plastic appliance was taken out, washed with running water, the hair fixed and loosened and dried to naturally fix the hair on which the wave was formed on the glass plate differently from the scale, and the wave forming efficiency was calculated according to the following Equation 1, and the results are shown in Table 5 below. It was.

In Equation 1, a is a distance between the first rod and the sixth rod of the instrument, b is the distance of five peaks of the waved hair, and c is a straight line of the five peaks of the waved hair. The distance when it is shown is shown.

② Wave persistence test

A perspiration solution was prepared such that 0.5 g of L-cysteine hydrochloride (monohydrate), 0.5 g of sodium chloride, and 5.0 g of dibasic sodium phosphate (12-hydrate) were adjusted to pH 11.0 with sodium hydroxide and purified water to a volume of 1 L.

The wave-formed hair bundle (Swatch) was immersed in a test tube containing 30% sodium lauryl sulfate solution (pH = 8.5) and the prepared sweat solution, and then left at 45 ° C. for 1 hour. After standing, it was taken out of the test tube, washed with water, dried, and then fixed to a glass plate with a natural scale, and the wave efficiency after the sustainability test was calculated by the wave formation efficiency formula, and the next wave persistence retention ratio of the following Equation 2 was calculated. Indicated.

③ hair damage test

1) 15-20 cm in length Bleached hair, dyed hair, normal hair swatches (Swatch) were shampooed and towel dried. Apply uniformly reducing reducing agent solution to dry hair with towel, wind with constant force on the rod, leave for 20 minutes, wash with running water in the state of lot, apply uniform amount of oxidizing agent 2 solution and leave the rod after 20 minutes After washing with running water and drying, take hair fragments treated with reducing agent 1 and oxidizing agent 2 and the hair fragments before treatment, and sample the hair with a sump method and observe the damage of the cortical layer by using a microscope. The results are shown in Table 5 below.

2) Shampoo the hair of the same model as used in 1) (half test), apply the reducing agent solution uniformly to the dry hair of the towel, wind it with a constant force on the rod, and leave it in the rod state for 20 minutes. After rinsing with running water and uniformly applying the oxidizing second liquid, and standing for 20 minutes, the rods were released, washed with running water, dried, and then compared with a sense of combing to the hair pieces treated with the reducing first and oxidizing second agents.

④ Odor measurement after procedure

Sensory measurement was performed by 20 people with each hair piece (Swatch) that completed the wave formation efficiency test (①) and each hair piece (Swatch) that completed the wave persistence test (②).

Depending on how to use, 10-, 20-, 30-, 40- and 50-year-old female model hairs are divided into two parts with catapart, and the reducing first agent of Examples 1 to 3 and the reducing first agent of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 are used. Sensory measurements were made from professional beauticians after permanent wave. As a sensory measurement method, the result was obtained according to the following Table 3 as a direct sensory method.

Odor Odor sensitivity 0 Odorless (no smell at all) None One Detect odor (detects some odor) Throshold 2 Normal odor (we detect normal odor) Moderate 3 Strong odor (detects strong odor) Strong 4 Extreme odor (detects very strong odor) Very strong 5 Unbearable odor (unbearable odor) Over strong

⑤ Scalp Stimulation Test

Wash the skin around the back of the ear with soap, clean the skin with a coin-sized solution, apply it in the size of a coin, leave it for 20 to 30 minutes or 48 hours, wash it with water, and apply the oxidizing agent 2 skin. Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3, such as spots, red spots, black spots, swelling and itching, are shown in Table 5 below. The test subjects were male and female in their 10s and 50s. The result was obtained by following Table 4 as a judgment method.

Symbol (score) Judgment - (0) No response ± (0.5) Light erythema + (1.0) Erythema ++ (2.0) Erythema + edema +++ (3.0) Erythema + edema + vesicles

division Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Wave shaping efficiency% 76.3 77.1 79.4 65.3 66.2 67.4 Wave Persistence Percentage 65.7 68.4 64.8 58.7 59.4 54.8 Hair damage none none none has exist has exist Severe Odor after procedure none none none has exist Severe has exist Scalp irritation none none none has exist Severe has exist

As shown in Table 5, when the perm treatment using the reducing first agent of Examples 1 to 3 according to the present invention compared to the case of the perm treatment using the reducing first agent of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 Less hair damage, less irritation to the scalp, stable and elastic curls and straightening in the acidic area in a short time, as well as improved sustainability and significantly reduce bad odor after the procedure Could.

In general, when applying a wave or applying a straight effect when performing a perm procedure, only the shape of the apparatus used is different, and thus the chemicals used and the time to stand are the same. Is the same.

Claims (4)

In the composition for permanent wave and straightener which consists of a reducing 1st agent and an oxidizing 2nd agent or a reducing 1st agent,
A composition for permanent wave and straightener, wherein the reducing first agent comprises acetylcysteine and isooctyl thioglycol cholate in a weight ratio of 10: 1 to 1:10.
The composition for permanent wave and straightener according to claim 1, wherein the pH of the composition is 6.5 to 9.5.
The composition for permanent wave and straightener according to claim 1, wherein the acetylcysteine and isooctyl thioglycolate contain 0.1 to 10.0 wt% based on the total weight of the first agent composition.
The composition for permanent wave and straightener according to claim 1, wherein the reducing first agent contains 0.001 to 10.0 wt% of the alkali agent based on the total weight of the first agent composition.

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