KR20130051544A

KR20130051544A - The methods to prepare gelling make-up cosmetics and its composition

Info

Publication number: KR20130051544A
Application number: KR1020110116725A
Authority: KR
Inventors: 김영호; 이동원; 정은지; 이상길; 표형배
Original assignee: 한불화장품주식회사
Priority date: 2011-11-10
Filing date: 2011-11-10
Publication date: 2013-05-21

Abstract

The present invention is characterized by containing a co-polymer of PIG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDIA as an associative thickener and a constant blending ratio of Carbomer 940 to stably disperse the surface-treated pigment without using a surfactant and By emulsifying oil and silicone oil, the present invention relates to a gel foundation composition which has excellent safety for skin, covers skin defects, exhibits natural cosmetic expression, and has a shape memory phenomenon.

Description

The method to prepare gelling make-up cosmetics and its composition}

The present invention is characterized in that the associative thickener, Fiji-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDIA, contains a copolymer and Carbomer 940 in a constant blending ratio, so that triethoxycaprylylsilane or dimethicone is not used without a surfactant. The present invention was completed by stably dispersing the coating pigment and emulsifying vegetable oil and silicone oil to prepare a stable foundation.

Therefore, an object of the present invention is characterized in that the associative thickener, Fiji-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDIA, contains a copolymer and Carbomer 940 in a predetermined ratio, so that triethoxycaprylylsilane can be used without using a surfactant. Alternatively, by dispersing dimethicone coating pigments stably and emulsifying vegetable oils and silicone oils to produce a stable foundation, it gives a fresh and light feeling of use and lasting effect. It is to provide a gel foundation composition.

Foundation compositions are makeup compositions for human skin. Foundation compositions are commonly used to mask skin defects such as redness and spots, as well as giving beautiful colors to the skin, especially the face. Foundation is a cosmetic that is used on the entire face, and it is an important factor to feel and maintain.

Most conventional emulsion foundations have been prepared in cream or liquid type by W / S, W / O, O / W emulsification.

W / S (water in silicone) foundation is a foundation of continuous silicone with excellent resistance to sweat and sebum, but there is a limit in terms of stability of the formulation to exhibit a fresh and light feeling in use. Water in oil (W / O) foundation is slightly less durable to sebum than W / S foundation, and has a feeling of oily oil rather than a light feeling of silicone. O / W (oil in water) foundation is limited to represent a fresh and light feeling of oil by the oil in the inner phase. In addition, there is a disadvantage in that stains occur due to the lack of persistence for sweat and sebum. Finally, the oil-dispersible foundation is a foundation characterized by a high content of extender pigments, a high coverage and powdery feeling, and a high content of oil, which is characterized by long-lasting sweat. Such a foundation has various functional advantages such as skin flaw concealment, usability, color expressiveness, water resistance, compatibility, etc., but has a problem of having to undergo a complex process using many surfactants for emulsification and pigment dispersion during manufacture.

On the other hand, in the case of emulsified gel cosmetics, since the oil must be emulsified in the basic composition of the gel, a large amount of nonionic surfactant having a high HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance Value) or a surfactant having a high emulsifying power is used. In addition, emulsified waxes and emulsifiers are also used.

In the prior art related to the present invention, European Patent No. 87-227012 discloses a gel oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition using mono alkyl phosphate as a surfactant, and Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 62-039507 and French Patent Laid-Open. No. 2703907 or the like also discloses oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsified gel cosmetics. However, they are all cosmetics which are characterized by a formulation similar to emulsification but not emulsion gels.

In addition, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 5-117130 introduces a cosmetic composition for the purpose of beautiful cosmetic expression by dispersing a pigment in a transparent gel, which is also different from a foundation formulation in which sufficient pigment is completely dispersed. It can be seen that they are not performed simultaneously.

Patent No. 1998-057614 discloses that a mixture of Carbomer 940, xanthan gum and silica in a constant mixing ratio stably disperses pigments without using any surfactants, but the dryness of the skin felt by silica and prolonged storage The stability of the oil is likely to be low.

The present invention maintains the basic properties and appearance of the gel while producing according to a completely different method from the conventional emulsification method by using no surfactant, and another object of the present invention is a unique gel type in which the shape of the appearance is restored. It has a shape-memory phenomenon that forms a shape memory aqueous gel that gives a unique feeling when applied by hand. Thus, it provides a cosmetic composition of a new formulation different from conventional cosmetic formulations, and as a result, no surfactant is used. Makeup composition having a shape-memory phenomenon using a foundation composition and a water-soluble associative thickener, which stably disperse triethoxycaprylyl or dimethicone coated pigment and emulsify vegetable oil and silicone oil It is to provide a method for producing.

The present invention is characterized in that the associative thickener, Fiji-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDIA, contains a copolymer and Carbomer 940 in a fixed ratio, so that the pigment is stably dispersed without using a surfactant and vegetable oil and silicone are used. By emulsifying the oil, the gel foundation composition has excellent safety on the skin, exerts natural make-up expression, and has a shape memory phenomenon. It spreads by hand with a unique gel type that maintains the basic properties and appearance of the gel and restores the appearance of the gel. The present invention has been completed for a cosmetic composition of a new formulation different from conventional cosmetic formulations, which exhibits a shape-memory phenomenon that forms a water-based gel.

The gel foundation composition having a shape memory phenomenon according to the present invention is characterized in that it contains a co-polymer of Fiji-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDIA as a associative thickener and a certain compounding ratio of carbomer 940, such as collagen or hyaluronic acid. In addition to utilizing the excellent moisturizing properties of the common gel-type cosmetics used, triethoxycaprylylsilane or dimethicone-coated iron oxide and titanium oxide pigments are stably dispersed and emulsified with vegetable and silicone oils without the use of surfactants. Shape memory that forms a water-based gel that forms a moisturizing film that provides excellent safety to the skin, exerts natural makeup expression, and at the same time restores the shape of the appearance, giving a unique feeling when applied by hand. memory) to increase the stability of the formulation. It is expected.

1 is a photograph before and after shape memory of the gel makeup composition of the present invention.

The present invention is to achieve the above object, the shape memory (shape-memory) when applied to the skin using a carbomer 940 of the PIG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SM Diayi copolymer and a constant blending ratio as an associative thickener ) It is characterized by the fact that it is stable to disperse triethoxycaprylyl or dimethicone coated pigment without using a surfactant, and emulsifies vegetable oil and silicone oil to provide excellent skin safety and natural cosmetic expression. It relates to a gel foundation composition to be exerted.

By taking such a configuration, the gel-type foundation composition according to the present invention stably disperses the pigment and emulsifies the oil without using a surfactant that has conventionally been used as an emulsifier, and in particular by using no surfactant at all No skin irritation and excellent skin safety.

As the polyols used in the present invention, one or two or more selected from 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and sorbitol are used.

As pigments, pigments coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane or dimethicone with fine pigments having a diameter of 0.1 μm or less can be used. In particular, iron oxide and ultrafine titanium oxide have a good effect on dispersion and have a color similar to skin color. It has a natural makeup effect, so it can be used preferably. The pigment is preferably used 0.5 to 20.0% by weight based on the total composition.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is an aqueous gel emulsion, but shows a shape-memory phenomenon with a composition different from that of a conventional aqueous gel emulsion. Shape memory refers to a phenomenon in which the shape of a product is restored when it is pressed by hand after applying it to the skin. As shown in Fig. 1, the aqueous gel emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention is a composition memory aqueous gel emulsion composition using an associative thickener, and restores again after time passes after the aqueous gel emulsion of the present invention is applied to the skin and pressed by hand. It is a phenomenon.

In addition, in the aqueous gel emulsion cosmetic composition, PIG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SM copolymer is characterized in that it contains 0.1 to 30.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

In the foundation composition according to the present invention, the oil may be used as silicone oil for light feeling depending on the feeling, and for heavy use, it may be used by adjusting the ester or triglyceride oil content. , Oils selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated polydesine, myristo stearate isopropyl, liquid paraffin, vegetable squalane, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, olive oil, camellia oil and mixtures thereof Wt%, preferably 5.0-30.0 wt%. This gives a soft and smooth feeling after application to the skin, and gives a moist makeup effect. It is hard to expect a moist make-up effect at 2.0 weight% or less, and stability is inferior to 40.0 weight% or more.

Hyaluronic acid and aqueous solution of collagen may be used as a moisturizing component and elasticity in the aqueous phase, and the weight of the total oil and the weight of the moisturizer of the aqueous phase do not exceed 50% of the total weight.

The composition according to the present invention can be applied to all products in addition to the foundation, expecting a moisturizing effect and natural makeup effect, such as makeup base, summer sun products.

Meanwhile, a method of preparing a foundation composition according to the present invention will be described in detail using an example of a shape memory aqueous emulsion using a stable associative thickener containing triethoxycaprylylsilane or dimethicone-coated iron oxide and titanium oxide. same. Fiji-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDIY copolymer and 0.1 to 1.0% by weight of carbomer 940 and 5.0 to 20.0% by weight of polyol were purified water at 50 ° C., and silicone oil and vegetable oil 5.0 to 20.0. The weight percentage is in an oil phase, and 0.5 to 20.0 wt% of a pigment containing triethoxycaprylylsilane or dimethicone-coated iron oxide and titanium oxide is divided into pigments. First, the aqueous phase is mixed well at 60 ° C. for 5 minutes. The pigment is added to the oil phase warmed to 60 ° C. and completely dispersed for 10 minutes. After dispersing, slowly add the oil phase to the water phase, mix and stir at 50 ° C for 10 minutes, add triethanolamine, a neutralizing agent, and mix and stir for 5 minutes to neutralize the shape memory with an associative thickener containing no surfactant. A gel emulsion type foundation composition is prepared.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail based on the following Examples and Comparative Examples. However, these examples and comparative examples are merely to aid the understanding of the present invention, it is to be noted that the components of the present invention are not limited by the examples, and imply the possibility of various combinations.

Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-2 division Raw material name Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Awards Carbomer 940
(2 wt% aqueous solution) 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 - Fiji-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMD Copolymer 1.00 3.00 5.00 - 3.00 glycerin 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Butylene Glycol 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Water Soluble Collagen 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 20.00 Purified water Balance Balance Balance Balance Balance Pigment Titanium oxide / triethoxycaprylylsilane 7.20 7.20 7.20 7.20 7.20 Iron oxide / triethoxycaprylylsilane 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Mica 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 oil Jojoba oil 10.00 10.00 - 10.00 10.00 Cyclomethicone - - 10.00 - - corrector Triethanolamine
(10 wt% aqueous solution) 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 additive incense Suitable amount Suitable amount Suitable amount Suitable amount Suitable amount

Note) Unit: weight%

Preparation of Examples 1-3 and Preparation of Comparative Examples 1-2

(1) The aqueous phase components were heated (60 ° C.) and mixed uniformly.

(2) The oily ingredients were uniformly mixed.

(3) After the pigment component was added to (2), it heated and heated (50 degreeC), and mixed uniformly.

(4) The gel emulsion was obtained after gradually adding (3) to (1) at 50 degreeC, stirring.

Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 2 of the cosmetic composition prepared in accordance with the long-term preservation stability, stability when applying the skin, usability, etc. were evaluated as shown in the following experimental example and the results are shown in the table.

Experimental Example 1: Long-term storage stability

Long-term storage stability of the cosmetic compositions of Examples and Comparative Examples was evaluated in a thermostat (0 ° C, 42 ° C, 52 ° C), circulation and room temperature, respectively, and the results are shown in Table 2. In the circulation evaluation, the cycle temperature observation method of observing the separation phenomenon of the emulsified state and the dispersed state while gradually circulating 4 cycles with 0 cycle → 25 ℃ → 45 ℃ → 25 ℃ → 0 ℃ → -10 ℃ as one cycle. Was carried out accordingly.

Composition stability at room temperature and in thermostat Item Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 0 ℃ 1 month ◎ ◎ ◎ △ ◎ 3 months ◎ ◎ ◎ △ ◎ 6 months ◎ ◎ ◎ △ ◎ 42 ° C 1 month ◎ ◎ ◎ △ ◎ 3 months ◎ ◎ ◎ △ ◎ 6 months ◎ ◎ ◎ △ ◎ 52 ℃ 1 month ◎ ◎ ◎ △ ◎ 3 months ◎ ◎ ◎ △ ◎ 6 months ◎ ◎ ◎ △ ◎ cycle 1 month ◎ ◎ ◎ △ ◎ 3 months ◎ ◎ ◎ △ ◎ 6 months ◎ ◎ ◎ △ ◎ Room temperature 1 month ◎ ◎ ◎ △ ◎ 3 months ◎ ◎ ◎ △ ◎ 6 months ◎ ◎ ◎ △ ◎

Note) Evaluation criteria ◎ ： Good △: Unstable ×: Separation

As is clear from the results of Table 2, the cosmetic compositions of the embodiments 1 to 3 according to the present invention show good long-term storage stability at all of the temperature and circulating evaluations in which the experiment was performed.

Experimental Example 2: Ease of Use

20 females aged 18 to 40 years were used for the cosmetic compositions of the Examples and Comparative Examples, and the evaluation was divided into four categories of skin fit, absorbency, fresh finish, and cosmetic expression. It is shown in Table 3 below.

Item Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Skin adhesion ○ ◎ ○ △ ◎ Absorbency ◎ ○ ◎ ○ ○ A neat finish ◎ ◎ ◎ △ ◎ Cremation ◎ ◎ ◎ △ ○

Note) Sensory evaluation criteria ◎ ː Very satisfied ○: Good △: Normal ×: Poor

From the results in Table 3, it can be seen that the compositions of Examples 1 to 3 according to the invention are superior to the comparative compositions in terms of overall skin fit, absorbency and freshness of the finish, which is a moist feature of the water-soluble gel. It seems to be due to the improvement of the finish feeling by the vegetable oil.

Claims

PG-150 / Stearylalcohol / SMDIA Copolymer and Carbomer 940 as a associative thickener, containing vegetable and silicone oils, no surfactant as emulsifier, and triethoxycaprylylsilane or dimethicone coating A gel foundation cosmetic composition comprising a pigment to cover skin defects and exhibit a shape-memory phenomenon upon application to the skin.

The method of claim 1,
1) Fiji-150 / stearyl alcohol / SM copolymer is 0.1 to 30.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition,
2) Carbomer 940 is 0.1 to 5.0% by weight,
3) cyclodimethicone, dimethicone, diethylhexylcarbonate, hydrogenated polydesine, isopropyl isopropyl, liquid paraffin, vegetable squalane, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, olive oil, camellia oil and these 10 to 40% by weight of an oil selected from the group consisting of, and
4) 0.5 to 20.0% by weight of triethoxycaprylylsilane or dimethicone coated iron oxide and titanium oxide,
5) A gel foundation cosmetic composition comprising a residual amount of water containing a water-soluble active ingredient which is glycerin or a plant extract.

Heating and uniformly mixing the water phase components including the PIG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDIA copolymer and carbomer 940, an associative thickener; And
Gradually mixing uniformly adding the pulverized coated iron oxide and titanium oxide while stirring the heated oily raw materials; And slowly adding and stirring the warmed oil-based ingredients to the uniformly mixed water-based ingredients.