KR20080008339A - Skin compositions including tensioning polymers and the use thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention features compositions containing at least one tensioning polymer, uses thereof in treating at least one sign of aging, and devices for applying such compositions.

Description

Skin compositions including tension imparting polymer and uses thereof

Background of the Invention

Many techniques have been proposed to provide cosmetic and / or skin rejuvenation benefits to reduce signs of skin aging. For example, topical application of benefit agents such as retinoids is known as an effective treatment for wrinkles and other signs of skin aging. These benefit agents generally work by stimulating collagen through a variety of biochemical means. While topical application of these "biochemical" benefit agents can be quite effective, reducing the occurrence of wrinkles with many benefit agents typically requires a large number of topical applications, and benefit agents are not specified immediately. One solution for providing a rapid onset or immediate onset of this benefit, such as a reduction in the occurrence of wrinkles, is to topically apply a composition containing a dispersion of the imparting polymer.

The composition should preferably provide the skin with a membrane that has sufficient tensioning to reduce the occurrence of wrinkles and is resistant to mechanical and chemical degradation from water and humidity but not so resistant to water and difficult to remove by washing. do. Also, for example, a membrane having a high mechanical durability against skin stretching from the removal of facial muscles and minimal gloss is desirable. Also preferred are compositions that are easily and uniformly applied over a large area of skin. As such, the composition should be easily spread into the film that is not excessively thick so that cracking or flaking occurs throughout the skin. However, this spreadability preferably does not allow the composition to be so “thin” such that due to gravity the composition flows down unregulated perpendicularly to the skin surface.

Accordingly, there is still a need for compositions for protecting skin that achieve one or more of the above properties.

Summary of the Invention

In one aspect, the present invention comprises at least about 35% by weight of water (i) and at least about 2% by weight of an elasticity imparting polymer (ii) having at least one shrinkage of greater than about 3 g / mg and a water resistance index of from about 0.9 to about 1.9. It is characterized by an emulsion composition.

In another aspect, the invention features an emulsion composition comprising at least about 1% by weight of an oil outer phase (i), an inner aqueous phase (ii) and one or more elasticity imparting polymers (iii).

In another aspect, the present invention provides a process for (i) thickening the skin, (ii) improving the barrier function of the skin, and / or (iii) improving skin elasticity, improving skin elasticity, softening the skin surface and A method for treating one or more signs of skin aging selected from the group consisting of treating one or more signs of skin aging selected from the group consisting of reducing skin wrinkles, the method comprising Coating the skin protection composition comprising an elasticity imparting polymer having a shrinkage force of greater than about 3 g / mg and a water resistance index of about 0.9 to about 1.9 to the skin in need thereof.

In another aspect, the present invention,

(A) a skin care composition comprising an elasticity imparting polymer having a shrinkage force of greater than about 3 g / mg and a water resistance index of about 0.9 to about 1.9; and

a group consisting of (i) thickening the skin, (ii) improving the barrier function of the skin and / or (iii) improving skin elasticity, improving skin elasticity, softening the skin surface and reducing the occurrence of skin wrinkles In order to treat one or more signs of skin aging selected from the product, the product comprises instructions for use (b) to instruct the user to apply the composition to the skin.

In another aspect, the invention provides a method of applying to a skin a fluid composition comprising a reservoir (i) containing a fluid composition comprising at least one elasticity imparting polymer and a skin contactable surface (ii) having at least one opening. Device, characterized in that it is adapted to be extruded from the reservoir through one or more openings to the skin contact surface.

In another aspect, the present invention includes the steps of (i) extruding a fluid composition from the reservoir through one or more openings on the skin to the skin contact surface, and (ii) applying the extruded fluid composition to the skin, A method is used to apply a fluid composition to the skin using a device.

A more specific description of the invention briefly summarized above is described with reference to its aspects presented in the accompanying drawings. It is to be noted, however, that the appended drawings illustrate only general aspects of the invention and, therefore, are not to be considered limiting of its scope to the invention and may permit other equally effective aspects.

1 is a side view of an apparatus for measuring shrinkage force of a film forming polymer.

FIG. 2 is an illustrative example of a plot of loading (ie, resilience) versus time for an elasticity imparting polymer.

3 is a cross-sectional view of a device consistent with aspects of the invention described herein.

4 is a partial perspective view of the head portion of the device of FIG. 3, seen as a pattern of openings formed in a surface that may contact the skin.

For ease of understanding, the same reference numerals are used to refer to the same members common to the drawings.

Detailed description of the invention

Those skilled in the art, based on the description herein, are deemed to be able to utilize the present invention to its fullest extent. The specific aspects below are for illustrative purposes only and do not limit the remainder of the disclosure in any way.

Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. All percentage (%) concentrations of ingredients are weight to weight (w / w) unless otherwise noted.

By "product" is meant the product in the final packaged form. In one embodiment, the package is a container containing the composition, such as a plastic, metal or glass tube or jar. The product may further comprise additional packaging for storing the aforementioned containers, for example plastic or cardboard boxes.

In one embodiment, the product sound (i) thickens the skin, (ii) improves the barrier function of the skin, and / or (iii) improves skin elasticity, improves skin elasticity, softens the skin surface, and Instructions for instructing the user to apply the composition to the skin to treat one or more signs of aging of the skin selected from the group consisting of reducing the occurrence of wrinkles.

"Thinning the skin" means preventing the skin from thickening or thinning.

"Improving the barrier function of the skin" means improving or preventing the loss of the protective properties of the skin, including but not limited to improving the vitality of the skin or the hydration of the skin. do.

"Enhancing elasticity" means improving the elasticity of the skin or preventing its loss.

"Strengthen elasticity" means improving the skin's elasticity or preventing its loss.

The term "wrinkle" as used herein includes fine lines, fine wrinkles, coarse wrinkles, cellulite, scars and strech marks. Examples of wrinkles include, but are not limited to, fine wrinkles around the eyes (eg, "crow's feet"), forehead and cheek wrinkles, frown-lines and laughter lines around the mouth.

"Promoting" means promotion, advertising or marketing. Examples of promotions include, but are not limited to, phrases, visual or oral, written on a product or store, magazine, newspaper, radio, television, the Internet, and the like.

To promote thickening of the skin or to improve the barrier function of the skin, examples of the above mentioned are "thicken skin", "strengthen skin", "fat skin", "skin thickness" Rejuvenates "," strengthens skin "," improves skin structure "," suppresses skin thinning "," improves skin "," helps heal skin "," damages or wounds " Helps to heal or peel off skin "," helps keep skin moist "," promotes skin regeneration process "," makes skin moist "," helps keep skin moist " And "more moist skin". Examples of such visual representations include pictures, drawings or images of the skin that indicate thickening and / or thickening the skin or improving the barrier function of the skin.

To promote the treatment of oars and signs, examples of those mentioned above include "improve skin elasticity", "help to reduce photodamaged skin incidence", "significantly improve skin visually and tactilely", "Increase skin elasticity or elasticity", "restore skin elasticity", "treat elongated or loose skin", "reduce cellulite incidence", "lift skin", "younger skin Make visible, "" smooth under-eye fat "," lift face "," make skin look younger "and" make skin look younger ".

As used herein, "administration to the skin in need of such treatment" refers to the skin area in need of such treatment and by using an applicator such as, but not limited to, using a hand or using a towel, tube, roller, spray or patch. ) Means contact. Such features may be present under the eye or near the eye or on the face such as the forehead, cheeks, lower jaw and neck as well as other areas of the body such as arms and legs (eg cellulite).

As used herein, "composition" means a composition suitable for administration to the skin.

"Cosmetic acceptable" as used herein means that the components or compositions described by the term are suitable for use in contact with the skin without inappropriate toxicity, incompatibility, instability, irritation, allergic reactions, and the like. This term is not intended to be limited to the ingredients / compositions described for use only as a cosmetic (eg, the ingredient / composition may be a medicament).

As used herein, “safe and effective amount” means an amount of a compound, carrier, or composition that is sufficient to cause an improvement in tissue elasticity but low enough to avoid serious side effects. Safe and effective amounts of the compound or composition may be determined by factors such as the area to be treated, the age of the end user, the health and skin / tissue form, the duration and nature of the treatment, the particular compound or composition used, the particular cosmetically acceptable carrier used Can be changed by

In addition, the term "molecular weight" or "average molecular weight" is defined herein as a number average molecular weight.

As used herein, the term "membrane" refers to an at least partially contiguous arrangement of materials remaining on and optionally inside the skin after the composition has been applied and applied to the skin and after a period of at least 30 minutes at room temperature and about 50% relative humidity. it means. Generally, membranes formed by applying a composition to the skin (eg, by hand or through an applicator) in accordance with an aspect of the invention described herein, have an average thickness of less than about 100 μm, such as less than about 50 μm.

Skin protection composition

The composition comprises a firming polymer useful for imparting elasticity to the skin and a liquid vehicle useful for delivering the firming polymer to the skin. The composition may comprise one or more kinds of other components. The nature of the composition as well as the various components that can be used in the composition are described below.

Elasticity imparting polymer

The composition of the present invention includes a "elastic imparting polymer". By "polymer" is meant a molecule having at least three repeating monomer units and having a molecular weight greater than about 3000, such as greater than about 5000, such as greater than about 10,000. The polymer can be a straight or branched polymer or a variety of structures, such as stars, hyperbranched forms, dendrimers, grafts, combs, and the like. The polymer may be a copolymer, which may include a plurality of monomer units, which may be arranged in a variety of arrangements, including, for example, alternating, block or random. The polymer may be an organic polymer (ie comprising carbon) and may include carbon-carbon, carbon-oxygen, carbon-nitrogen, silicon-oxygen and / or silicon-carbon bonds connecting the various monomer units.

"Membrane forming polymer" means a polymer that, when dissolved, emulsified, or dispersed in one or more diluents, is applied to a smooth glass with a liquid vehicle and a continuous or semicontinuous film is formed when the liquid vehicle is evaporated. As such, the polymer must be dried in the glass without forming a plurality of separate freestanding structures.

"Elasticity imparting polymer" means a film forming polymer that can be attached to a substrate and impart elasticity to the substrate. In particular, in order to be classified as an elasticity imparting polymer, the polymer must have a shrinkage force of at least about 3 g / mg as measured using the shrinkage force test described below.

Retraction

The following is a test for determining the shrinkage force of a film forming polymer. Referring to FIG. 1, the retraction force test is performed using a test instrument 1, an Instron Model 1125. The instrument 1 is placed in a controlled temperature environment maintained at about 23 ± 2 ° C. and relative humidity 50 ± 2%. The substrate 3 is made using "Vitro Skin" (synthetic skin commercially available from IMS Inc., Milford, Connecticut). With a bit cut the skin into rectangular strips 7 cm ± 2 cm high and 2 cm wide. The strip is secured to both ends via threaded clamps 5 alternately attached to the Instron's movable crosshead 7 using a steel hook. The substrate 3 is disposed between two metal position rods 9 that can rotate in small fractions such that the textured side of the substrate 3 faces up the thermocouple and the smooth side faces down. The positioning rod 9 is 2.7 cm apart.

A resistive heat source 11 capable of maintaining 37 ° C. above the substrate 3 is positioned below the substrate 3 at a fixed distance from the substrate 3. The heat source 11 is connected to a thermocouple (not shown) to measure the temperature directly above the substrate 3 (where a test sample can be located). The heat source 11 is powered to provide a temperature that is about 37 ° C. directly above the sample. Note that there may be a temperature gradient such that the temperature below the substrate 3 read by the thermocouple is higher than the temperature above the substrate 3 adjacent to the test sample. In this case, the power supply to the thermocouple should be increased such that the temperature just above the substrate 3 adjacent to the sample is about 37 ° C.

Instron 1125 calibrates all test sequences before they are performed on a given day. Calibration is performed according to the manufacturer's instructions by attaching the standard mass directly to the load cell. To carry out the test sequence, the substrate 3 is attached by attaching the substrate 3 to the machine using the clamp 5 and placing the aluminum foil around the sample (to provide thermal transfer) without contacting the sample. Condition in a controlled temperature chamber. For example, you can use Test Works software (manufacturer: MTS Systems Corp., location: Eden Prairie, Minn.) To proceed with the test sequence and set the settings, width 2 cm, jaw. Elasticity is applied to the substrate 3 through the Instron 1125 with 2 inches of separation, 0.35 mm of progression point, 0.01 inch / min of progression speed, and 8 hours of holding time (total test period). The height of the stage 13 is adjusted such that the force read by the instrument 1 stays within 30 to 40 g for a period of about 15 minutes. Note that after the crosshead moves 0.35 mm, the force reading may continue to increase, but eventually the force reading may be balanced (i.e., the degree of variation in the force (load) may decrease). As in the exemplary FIG. 2, the maximum force for equilibrium A is described.

Subsequently, test samples of polymers dissolved or homogeneously dispersed in a liquid vehicle (deionized water) at a concentration of 5% in the last 24 hours were applied to the Vitro skin using a small paint brush (width: less than 0.5 inch). The woven surface is painted in both the lateral and transverse directions to completely cover the part of the skin with a bit between two position rods (substrate 27 mm x 20 mm is treated with a test sample). The mass of the test sample is determined by subtracting the mass of the brush after applying the test sample to the substrate 3 from the mass of the brush after the brush is immersed in the test sample. This mass is "add-on" and is reported in mg. The mass of the test sample applied to the substrate 3 should be approximately 50 to 70 mg.

Upon application of the test sample, the force reading may generally decrease as shown in FIG. 2, for example, to point B, and gradually to develop within about 30 to about 100 minutes after the test sample is applied. Increases to the maximum. This maximum force C is described. Force difference (C-A) is calculated as g. Add-mass (in mg) multiplied by the weight percentage of the polymer solution (5%) yields a total g of polymer (note that the liquid vehicle is subtracted from the total weight applied to the substrate). The force difference is divided by the weight of the polymer (mg) to produce the shrinkage force (unit g / mg) of the polymer. Repeat three times and record the average as the shrinking force of the polymer. Chitosan Derivatives Chitomamer PC [manufacturer: Dow Chemical, location: Midland, Michigan, USA] found to have a contraction force of 16.67 g / mg, and the chitosan of Primex EHF (Sigloof Jordu, Iceland). Contraction force was found to be 37.92 g / mg.

The shrinkage force of the elasticity imparting polymer is greater than 3 g / mg, but the shrinkage force of the elasticity imparting polymer is greater than about 5 g / mg, for example, about 5 to about 30 g / mg, for example, about 6 to about 20 g / mg. desirable.

The polymer may have a molecular weight that is high enough to promote the formation of a sufficiently flexible membrane to provide comfort without rupturing the skin and to form a membrane of sufficient thickness with a relatively high hydraulic volume. However, when the polymer is formulated into the composition, the molecular weight is preferably not too high so that the viscosity is so high that the product does not readily flow or spread or the drying time is too long. In one aspect of the invention, the molecular weight of the polymer is greater than about 100,000, for example, from about 100,000 to about 600,000.

The imparting polymer should adhere well to the skin. By itself, it is desirable for the polymer to adopt a high packing density in the composition, but this is not critical. It is preferred that the polymer is cationic (i.e., positive charge is employed in solution), but the polymer is anionic (i.e., negative charge is employed in solution) or zwitterionic (i.e., both negative and positive charge in solution). Adoption).

Water resistance

It is very preferred that the imparting polymer is water resistant. The inventors of the present invention, for elasticity imparting polymers that become “water resistant”, have the resistance to degradation from water when water is placed in static contact with the membrane of the elasticity imparting polymer (1) (“resistance to static degradation”). It was noted that ") and water must both have resistance to expansion 2 (" resistance to static expansion ") from water when placed in static contact with the membrane of the elasticity imparting polymer. The inventors of the present invention find that when the elasticity imparting polymer having both resistance to static degradation and resistance to static swelling is formulated and applied to the skin, and the resulting film becomes less flaking, it tends to be more durable. found. However, it should also be noted that the water resistance should not be so high that the polymer is difficult to remove from the skin, for example, by mechanically wiping the polymer and / or by cleaning the solution.

The index of water resistance encompassing the ability of the polymer to resist static degradation and resist static expansion can be measured using the tests described below. The test determines the "water resistance index", which is generally high for good performance, preferably as an elasticity imparting polymer.

To determine the water resistance index for a particular polymer, a standard microscope slide (thickness: about 1.3 mm) in which 5% by weight of the polymer is dissolved and / or homogeneously dispersed in deionized water and the polymer dispersion is placed flat on the hard surface. Place it in Sufficient dispersion is applied to the slides to coat a continuous zone that extends transversely through the entire slide. The slide is then laid down in a nearly vertical arrangement with respect to the vertical surface, for example for about 90 minutes. The membrane located on the slide is examined using a tube microscope.

Optical microscopes that can be magnified at least 4Ox can include image capture software, such as Flashpoint Video Capture (Integral Technologies, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana, USA, and / or image analysis software, eg For example, it is electrically connected to Image Pro Plus (Media Cybernetic, Inc., Silver Spring, MD). The software routinely calibrates standard calibration procedures so that the film thickness can be determined.

Magic markers are used to mark positions across the thickness of the slide (the position should be somewhat centered relative to the long direction of the slide). The slide stands above its thickness and remains static at the stage of the light microscope and focuses under 40x magnification with visible markings in the field. The image is captured using image capture software. Image analysis software opens with loading sample and calibration photos. The thickness of the membrane is measured at ten locations, each of which is within a marking of about 0.5 mm. Note that if the average thickness of the film at the rim of the slide near the marking is less than about 0.03 mm, the step of applying and drying the polymer dispersion is repeated one to four times to form a sufficient thickness. The film thickness should be at least about 0.03 mm. If the average film thickness is 0.03 mm to 0.1 mm, the average film thickness is recorded.

While maintaining the slide flat, deionized water (WR Scientific, Inc., for example, West Chester, PA, dispersed from a capillary tube with an internal diameter of 1.2 mm) One drop of the Micro-Hematocrit tube catalog No. 15401-650 available from Applicants is applied to the membrane as close as possible to the edge of the slide and as close as possible to the marking. Wait 5 minutes and slide the slides back to allow excess water to flow, then measure the thickness of the membrane again (again, 10 readings are taken within marking 0.5 mm and then averaged). The ratio of the average thickness after the water attack to the average thickness before the water attack is calculated. If the ratio is less than 1, the membrane dissolves. If the ratio is greater than 1, the membrane expands. If the ratio is close to 1, the membrane is resistant to both expansion and degradation. To assess the water resistance index of a given polymer, the procedure should be repeated on additional glass slides. The average of the two water resistance indexes is reported as the water resistance index. The water resistance index of the elasticity imparting polymer is preferably about 0.9 to about 1.9, for example about 0.9 to about 1.5, for example about 1 to about 1.3. The water resistance index for Kitamer PC was found to be 0.98, while the water resistance index for Primeto EHF was found to be 5.66 and Profam 974 [ADM, Decatur, Illinois, USA]. Soy protein sold by the Protein Specialties Division, was found to be 2.87, both of which are outside the desired range.

The inventors of the present invention have found that an elasticity imparting polymer having a contraction force of about 3 g / mg or more and a water resistance index of about 0.9 to about 1.9 has particularly excellent performance as an elasticity imparting polymer. One particularly notable class of polymers is polysaccharides such as chitosan based polymers having a molecular weight of about 200,000 to about 350,000. A notable non-limiting example, chimeric polymer, is a chitosan salt of polydon carboxylic acid consistent with the above specification and is commercially available from Dow Chemical, Midland, Miami, USA.

In order to increase the water dispersibility of the elasticity imparting polymer in the composition while the elasticity imparting polymer continues to have a high water resistance index, the elasticity imparting polymer may be a salt (polyelectrolyte). Also, for example, to increase the durability of the membrane obtained through ionic bridging or through hydrogen bonding, the counter ions of the polymer salts can be selected from certain kinds of compounds. For example, the elasticity imparting polymer may be, for example, a C ₃ -C ₁₀ organic acid such as lactic acid, succinic acid, maleic acid, polydon carboxylic acid, gluconic acid, adipic acid, benzoic acid and caprylic acid. It may be a salt. It is possible to form hydrogen bonds in acids or ionized polymers such as amino acids and / or multivalent (ie acids having a plurality of carboxyls or other groups with negative charges in the composition), for example citric acid, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, adipic Also suitable are polymers neutralized with other acids, which may be salts such as acids.

The polymer may be a natural polymer such as a protein or polysaccharide. For example, elasticity imparting polymers can be proteins or protein hydrolysates, such as milk, wheat or other cereals or extracts of legumes and oily plants, such as corn, rye, triticum aestivum, buckwheat , Sesame seeds, triticum spelta, peas, beans, lentils, soybeans and lupine beans. Other suitable proteins include wheat gluten ("Zane protein"), water dispersible from gelatin and casein salt, prolamin protein available from Freeman Industries, Tucaho, NY.

In one embodiment of the invention, the polymer is a polysaccharide. Examples of polysaccharides include those derived from the polymerization of rings of D-glucopyranose, D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose or other saccharides. Polysaccharides can be derived from seaweeds or plants and can include, for example, starch, glycogen, cellulose, amylopectin, amylase, xylan, tragacanth gum, insulin, laminarin and mannan. Examples of polysaccharides derived from seaweeds or plants include various cationic polysaccharides, for example natural polysaccharides derived to make cationic properties, such as various active species including reactivating chloride or epoxide sites. Quaternary compounds with quenched amine compounds. Examples of cationic polysaccharides include cationic guar, hydrophobically modified cationic guar, cationic hydroxypropyl guar, cationic hydrophobically modified hydroxypropyl guar, cationic hydroxyethyl guar, cationic hydrophobically modified Hydroxyethyl guar, cationic hydroxyethyl cellulose and cationic hydrophobically modified hydroxyethyl cellulose.

Other suitable polysaccharides include animal and exoskeleton derived polymers that have been modified to be at least partially hydrophilic. Examples include natural polymers derived from hair, nails, insect or crustacean shells, hair hair, feathers, beaks or animal horns or horns on the body and can be used as exoskeleton derived polymers. Animal-derived polysaccharides include those derived from chitin, glycogen, hyaluronic acid and galactan.

In one embodiment of the present invention, in order to promote sufficient chain stiffness and elasticity, the elasticity imparting polymer is a polysaccharide having a beta linkage and may be present, for example, in cellulose, alginate and chitosan polymers. In another aspect of the invention, the polysaccharides may be at least partially crosslinked with divalent or polyvalent metals such as aluminum, calcium, magnesium, or the like or boric acid salts. Such crosslinkers can make the polymer more water resistant. Other properties of the polysaccharides (eg degree of substitution / neutralization) may be similar to those described in the following paragraphs, particularly in connection with chitosan polymers.

Of particular interest are polymers derived from chitin, in particular chitosan polymers which are deacetyl derivatives of chitin. By "chitosan polymer" is meant chitin with deacetylation of at least 25%. Deacetylation can be measured using colloid titration as described in K. Toei and T. Kohara, Analytica Chimica Acta, 83, 59-65 (1976). In one aspect of the invention, the elasticity imparting polymer is a chitosan polymer having a deacetylation greater than about 65%, such as from about 75% to about 95%, such as from about 80% to about 90%. Such polymers may have a specific water solubility that is unaffected by water such that the formulation can be tolerated in aqueous systems but becomes a flaky or other form of degradation from moisture. In another aspect of the invention, the elasticity imparting polymer is a chitosan polymer having a degree of deacetylation from about 45% to about 55% to provide a suitable balance of water resistance and water solubility. The molecular weight (number average) of the chitosan polymer can be from about 175,000 to about 650,000, for example from about 200,000 to about 350, 000.

In addition, chitosan polymers may be derived in a manner to increase water solubility and / or to improve the polymer's ability to form a soft / soft or continuous film on the skin and / or to increase elasticity. In one embodiment of the invention, the chitosan polymer is a chitosan salt. By "chitosan salt" is meant a chitosan polymer that is substantially ionizable in an aqueous medium. Suitable chitosan salts are, for example, carboxylic acid salts, such as C ₃ -C ₁₀ organic acids, for example lactic acid, succinic acid, maleic acid, citric acid, polydon carboxylic acid, gluconic acid, adipic acid, benzoic acid and carca Salts described above, including salts of organic acids, including prylic acid, amino acids or other acids capable of forming hydrogen bonds, polyvalent acids and the like.

Chitosan salts are preferably derived from amine functional groups by neutralizing at least some of these amine groups (using acids as described in the paragraphs above). As such, the chitosan salt may have a substituted (DS) value of greater than about 5%, for example greater than about 30%, for example between about 30% and about 50%.

Chitin (for example, chitin commercially available from Protan Inc., Portsmouth, New Hampshire) or Tokyo Kasei Inc., Tokyo, Japan The chitosan available from.) Can be deacetylated using, for example, sodium hydroxide to form a chitosan polymer to produce a chitosan polymer. The chitosan polymer can then be at least partially neutralized with an acid to form a salt. Alternatively, chitosan polymers or salts thereof can be obtained from commercial sources such as Kitamer L (lactic acid salt of chitosan) and Kitamer PC (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid salt of chitosan) commercially available from Dow Chemical in Midland, Miami, USA. ) And the N-carboxy-iso-butyl chitosan derivative Chito (Bios srl, Ancona, Italy).

While it is desirable to at least partially neutralize chitosan (ie, chitosan salts) to provide high levels of elasticity and low levels of track, chitosan is derived in a manner that does not necessarily provide ionizable groups (ie, salts). Alternatively, it may be induced in another way to improve hydrophilic properties and / or to improve membrane-forming or elasticity. Examples of suitable derivatives include alkoxylated residues comprising ether functional derivatives such as carboxyalkyl ethers or hydroxyalkyl ethers; Ester functional derivatives or other derivatives that provide some hydrophilic properties to the chitosan polymer. Examples include carboxymethyl, carboxyethyl, hydroxylpropyl, hydroxybutyl and can be derived, for example, from the hydroxyl group of the chitosan polymer. However, if these chitosan derivatives are selected as elasticity imparting polymers, care must be taken to use relatively low molecular weight changes, such as molecular weights of about 50,000 to about 350,000 and / or concentrations of less than about 2%. In addition, if such elasticity imparting polymer is selected, other elasticity imparting polymers, such as polymer salts, may be used in combination with these polymers. Examples include chitosan, such as N- (carboxymethyl) chitosan or N- (carboxybutyl) chitosan, sold under the name "Evalsan" by Jan Dekker, Netherlands. Alkylation.

Another suitable class of elasticity imparting polymers includes sulfide modifications such as proteoglycans / glycoaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid or proteoglycans such as dermatan sulfate, heparin-sulfate and the like.

In another aspect of the invention, the elasticity imparting polymer is a synthetic polymer. Suitable synthetic polymers are, for example, polyethylene glycol, acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, vinyl polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol polyvinylpolydon, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyester- Polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethane polyacrylamides, polyureas, polysulfonates, and poly (2-ethyl-2-oxazolines) [e.g., AQUAZOL, IPS, Wayne, NJ Available from ISP Specialty Polymer.

In one aspect of the invention, the elasticity imparting polymer is a crosslinked synthetic polymer, such as a crosslinked polyacrylic acid, which is crosslinked using a polyvalent crosslinker such as a zirconium salt or other suitable metallic species. Suitable examples of externally crosslinked acrylic polymers include polymer membranes in ammonium zirconyl carbonate crosslinkers (eg, BACOTE 20, commercially available from MEI Chemical, Manchester, UK). JONCRYL 77 and Joncryl 74, which are acrylic polymers added in a ratio of zirconium / polyacrylic acid sufficient to improve crosslinking upon drying. Johnkrill polymers are commercially available from SC Johnson & Son, Inc., Racine, Wisconsin. The crosslinked acrylic polymer may be a copolymer comprising at least one hydrophilic base-neutralizable monomer and at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer.

The elasticity imparting polymer is generally present in the composition at a concentration sufficient to provide elasticity to the skin, but depending on the particular polymer and the desired result, it is not high enough to make the composition difficult to spread to the skin or to make the composition unstable. The elasticity imparting polymer may be present in the composition at a concentration in weight units, for example, in the range of about 0.5% to about 20%. In order to improve sufficient elasticity, the elasticity imparting polymer is preferably greater than about 2%, for example about 2% to about 10%, for example about 3% to about 7%. In particular, once a certain concentration of elasticity imparting polymer is reached, the amount of elasticity is found to increase at a deceleration, and additional polymers may be less desirable due to increased raw material costs and phase stability of the overall composition may be difficult to achieve. lost.

Liquid Vehicle

The skin care composition includes a liquid vehicle useful for solvating, emulsifying or dispersing the elasticity imparting polymer and other components in the composition. In addition, a vehicle can be provided in the medium to increase the hydraulic volume so that the hydraulic volume can be reduced in practice. The vehicle includes one or more compounds on a liquid or gel such that the imparting polymer readily disperses through the skin. Liquid vehicles are generally temporary (ie, after a period of 30 minutes of use, most liquid vehicles are not incorporated into the membrane-are absorbed into the skin and / or evaporated from the skin). Suitable liquid vehicles include one or more water, C ₁ -C ₆ alcohols (eg ethanol and isopropanol) and glycols (eg propylene glycol and hexylene glycol). In one aspect of the invention, the liquid vehicle comprises both water and volatile liquids. "Volatile liquid" means a liquid that is more volatile than deionized water. "Nonvolatile" means less volatile than deionized water. The volatile liquid can be C ₁ -C ₆ alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol. For example, the rate of evaporation of the volatile liquid can be from about 100 to about 500 (on a scale where the value of butyl acetate is 100 and the value of deionized water is about 36).

The liquid vehicle may be present at a concentration of about 30% to about 99%, for example about 40% to about 95%, for example about 70% to about 90%. In embodiments of the invention where water is present, water may be present at a concentration of about 30% to about 95%, for example about 40% to about 90%, for example about 40% to about 70%. In this embodiment where a volatile liquid is present, the volatile liquid may be present at a concentration sufficient to set the membrane to be placed on the skin (eg, essentially non-fluid) within about 30 seconds after the membrane is applied. Alternatively, it may be desirable to omit the volatile solvent or to maintain its level below about 1% to reduce other unpleasant odors to the user. In one embodiment of the invention, the volatile liquid may be present at a concentration of about 1% to about 50%, for example about 10% to about 45%, for example about 20% to about 35%.

Plasticizer

The composition may comprise a plasticizer. By "plasticizer" is meant a non-volatile component that alters the mechanical properties of the membrane elasticity imparting polymer and optionally provides further benefits. If the elasticity imparting polymer is inherently brittle, the composition may include one or more plasticizers (or membrane modifiers) to reduce the tendency of the film to crack or flake. These may be in the form of monomers, oligomers or even polymers (note that the polymer may only be suitable as a plasticizer if the polymer is not suitable as an elasticity imparting polymer as described above) and the molecular weight is from about 100 to about 175,000 For example, about 100 to about 5000. In one aspect of the invention, the plasticizer is hydrophilic and / or hygroscopic (ie, absorbs or retains some moisture from the surrounding environment or composition) to increase plasticity, flexibility, wetting and / or stability to the user. Suitable hydrophilic and / or hygroscopic plasticizers include those having hydroxyl groups, such as glycols such as propylene glycol and hexylene glycol; Glycol ethers such as diethylene glycol ethyl ether or methyl ether, ethylene glycol ethyl ether or butyl ether, propylene glycol methyl ether or phenyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether or butyl ether, tripropylene glycol butyl ether or methyl ether; And glycerol esters. Other suitable plasticizers include acid esters such as citrate, phthalate, adipate, carbonate, tartrate and phosphate.

Other suitable plasticizers can be quite hydrophobic, for example oils. "Oil" refers to mineral oils (such as petrolatum), vegetable oils (such as essential and volatile oils including terpenes, aldehydes and ketones, phenols and esters), esters such as fatty acid esters of glycerol and Hydrophobic compounds (hydrocarbon-based or silicon-based) that are liquid at room temperature, including oxyethylenated oils such as oxyethylenated castor oil. Other suitable plasticizers include emulsifiers such as oil-in-water emulsifiers or water-in-oil emulsifiers such as nonionic surfactants or other mixtures of waxes and esters. Other suitable plasticizers include hydrocarbon waxes. One suitable hydrocarbon wax is cetyl dimethicone available from Abil wax 9801 of Degussa Corporation, Essen, Germany.

Silicone plasticizers are particularly noteworthy in that they can contribute to malleability, water resistance and / or reduce the tracks in the membrane. Suitable silicone plasticizers include silicone fluids, such as dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane, which may be less volatile than water under standard conditions; Silicone waxes such as DC 2501, water dispersible silicone glycol copolymer waxes; And oxyethylenated silicone oils; Silicone elastomers. Dow Corning's Dow Corning 7-3101, Midland, Michigan, USA, is a "high internal phase emulsion" that is a commercially available silicone elastomer as a mixture with silicone oil. Dow Corning 7-3101 has a particle size of about 12-16 μm; And silicone polymers or copolymers, such as polysilicon-11, suitable silicone polymers or copolymers mixed with silicone oils are disclosed in USG-103, commercially available from Shin-Etsu, Tokyo, Japan. KSG-210 and KP-545.

Other plasticizers of particular note are propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, sodium polyaspartate, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea, plant extracts such as sugarcane extract, polyquaternium compounds such as polyquaternium-51, 2 Copolymers prepared from -methacryl-loyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine and butyl methacrylate (commercially available as Lipidure PMB); And Advanced Moisture Complex, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, urea commercially available from Collaborative Laboratories, Stony Brook, NY, USA. Blends with trehalose, electrodeposition agents such as dimethicone copolyols, cyclopentasiloxane, esterified oils such as alkali metal salts of PEG-modified olive oils and polydon carboxylic acids; And other silicone plasticizers.

While these materials are described as plasticizers, these materials may also be for example softening / extending, wetting / surface elasticity reduction, moisture retention, emulsification, fragrance, elasticity, thickening and / or gloss retention / matte. Note that it can be "multifunctional" in that it can provide additional functionality, including persimmon.

One example of a multifunctional component that can function as a plasticizer is thickeners such as clays and thickening polymers. Note that depending on how a particular polymer or thickener functions in the shrinkage test (described above), the polymer / thickener may be classified as an elasticity imparting polymer. It is also noted that if the imparting polymer is cationic, anionic thickeners may be omitted in order to be able to reduce storage instability.

Thickeners include clays such as bentonite or synthetic clays such as magnesium aluminum silicate [LAPONITE XLG; Southern Clay Products, Conzal, TX, USA; Natural polysaccharides such as xanthan gum such as KELTROL CG; CP Kelco, San Diego, Calif., USA, and extracellular polysaccharides prepared from the bacterium xanthomona campestris. Xanthan gum has a cellulose type backbone (beta-1,4-poly-glucose) with trisaccharide branching (side chain) in another monomer in the backbone. Other natural polysaccharides that may be suitable are alginates, seaweed gums (or derivatives thereof) extracted from kelp, straight chain polysaccharides (ie, copolymers) comprising two forms of residues: bD-mannopyranosilwoo Lonic acid and aL-gurupyrazonic acid; Pectin extracted from the cell walls of higher plants; And carrageenan, seaweed gum straight chain D-galactopyranosyl chain with alternating 1,3 and 1,4 linkages; Cellulose ethers including methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxy propyl methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose and ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, gaffquat HS-100, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-28 4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-51, sodium alginate, agarose, amylopectin, amylose, arabinan, arabinogalactan, arabinoxysilane, carrageenan, arabic gum, cellulose derivatives, for example , Methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl guar gum, carboxymethyl (hydroxypropyl) guar gum, hydroxyethyl guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, cationic guar gum , Chondroitin, cocodimonium hydroxypropyl oxyethyl cellulose, colomic acid [poly (N Cross-linked dextran, dextrin, emulic acid, flexi, also known as -acetyl-nuramic acid], corn starch, curdlan, demartinate sulfate, purcellane, dextran, dextranomer [Debrisan] Desaccharide (acidic), galactoglucomannan, galactomannan, glucomannan, glycogen, guar gum or hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, hydroxypropylated guar gum, gellan gum, glucomannan, gellan, gati gum, cara Night sword, tragacanth gum (tragacantin), heparin, hyaluronic acid, insulin, keratan sulfate, konjac met, laminaran, laudimonium hydroxypropyl oxyethyl cellulose, pyroic acid, locust bean gum, met, nigeran Nonoxynyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, okra gum, oxidized starch, pectin acid, pectin, polydextrose, potato starch, protofectin, charcoal seed gum, pullulan, sodium hyaluronate, Ardimonium hydroxyethyl cellulose, raffinose, lactic acid, tapioca starch, welan, levan, scleroglucan, stakiose, succinoglycan, wheat starch, xanthan gum, xylan, x Siloglucans, polyacrylates such as CARBOPOL [Noveon], polyacrylamide; And mixtures thereof.

If a plasticizer is included, the amount of plasticizer may be high enough to reduce flaking that may otherwise occur in the membrane, but not too high so that the skin tension of the membrane is reduced or the membrane becomes too sticky. The ratio of plasticizer to the total solids content of the membrane can be from 30% to about 90%, for example from about 50% to about 80%. Note that the total solids content (% solids) of the membrane is calculated by adding the weight percentage concentrations of all components except those whose evaporation rate is higher than or equal to deionized water (ie, components that are part of the "liquid vehicle").

In order to prevent the membrane from becoming too sticky, the molecular weight of the plasticizer can be kept below about 500. Particularly sticky materials, such as plasticizers with multiple hygroscopic functional groups (eg hydroxyl) and plasticizers having a molecular weight greater than about 1000, may be present in the composition at concentrations of less than about 0.5%.

Matting agent

To reduce the brightness and / or gloss of the film, matting agents (eg, by suspension) can be incorporated into the composition. The matting agent used may be a particulate material. By "particulate material" is meant a residue that does not dissolve in the liquid vehicle, but can be suspended in the composition, for example, rather forming a separate unit that is greater than about 0.2 μm but less than about 1000 μm. Particulate matter can be, for example, oxides such as oxides of silica (including pyrolytic silica, precipitated silica and colloidal silica), titanium dioxide or other chemically produced or mined oxides, talc, mica or aluminosilicates and the like. Hard inorganic fine particles (with or without hydrophobic coating solution or surface modification).

The particulate material may be fine particulates. “Fine particulates” generally refer to fine discrete zones (eg, less than about 200 μm, such as from about 0.2 μm to about 100 μm, such as from about 1 μm to about 50 μm, such as Microparticles capable of forming about 1 μm to about 20 μm).

In another aspect of the invention, the matting agent is a membrane, such as a crosslinked polymer such as an elastomer such as a silicon elastomer or a hydrocarbon or a nitrogen-containing elastomer such as acrylic, urethane and the like. Hydrocarbon or silicone polymer to modify the morphology of While not wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed to be an elastomer that provides a flexible domain in a membrane that separates the surface of the membrane to provide a matte feel. Silicone elastomers may be carried in silicone oil to improve the malleability of the composition as well as to facilitate stabilizing the silicone elastomer in the composition. One suitable silicone elastomer that can be used is further a dimethicone crosspolymer in a mixture comprising cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone. Examples of such mixtures include Dow Corning 7-3101 (Dow Corning; In Midland, Michigan, USA. Other particulates to be noted are inorganic particulates such as silica gel, aluminum silicate and pyrolytic silica such as surface modified or silylated pyrolytic silica such as Aerosil R812 [Degussa AG. Degussa AG); In Piscataway, NJ, USA.

Other particulate materials that may be suitable include mica coated with titanium dioxide (Flemenco Summit Red); Englehard Corporation; Iselin, NJ], crushed organic particles such as oyster shells, walnut shells, silk protein particles, resins such as nylon or acrylates, and the like. However, if such microparticles are included in the composition and the particle size is large, for example greater than 200 to 500 μm, this may limit the concentration of such particles to less than about 1%, for example less than about 0.5%. It may be desirable.

If particulate matter, such as fine particulates, is included in the composition, the proportion of particulates to the total solids content of the membrane is greater than about 0.5%, for example from about 0.5% to about 20%, for example from about 1% to About 10%, about 1% to about 4%. Surprisingly, the particulate material may be included in the composition without causing the composition to become phase unstable (eg, through sedimentation of the particles) or without creating a coarse texture in the composition when the particulate material is used.

Opaque agent

In one embodiment, the composition comprises one or more opacifying agents. By opaque agent is meant an agent which is added to reduce the clean or transparent appearance of the composition. Examples of opacifying agents include, but are not limited to, tin oxide, iron oxide, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer and ethylene / acrylic acid copolymers.

Benefit

In one aspect of the invention, the composition does not contain a benefit agent. Alternatively, various benefit agents can be included in the composition. By "beneficial agent" is meant whitening agents, blackening agents, anti-acne agents, antimicrobial agents, anti-inflammatory agents, antifungal agents, internal anesthetics, photoprotective agents, antioxidants, exfoliants, vitamins, astringents, hair growth inhibitors, hair loss inhibitors, hair Growth promoters, hair removers, skin firming agents, anti-aging agents such as anti-wrinkle agents, allergic inhibitors, preservatives, internal anesthetics, antipruritic agents, antihistamines, anti-infective agents, anticholinergic agents, extracellular matrix improvers, vasoconstrictors Cosmetic or therapeutic treatment of tissues including, but not limited to, vasodilators, wound healing promoters, peptides, polypeptides and proteins, enzymes and enzyme inhibitors, sensory agents, antioxidants, exfoliants, sunscreens, anti-edema agents, and combinations thereof Compounds having a physiological effect (eg, synthetic compounds or compounds isolated from a source).

In one embodiment, the benefit agent is hydroxy acid, benzoyl peroxide, D-panthenol, octyl methoxycinnimate, oxybenzone, titanium dioxide, octyl salicylate, homosalate, avobenzone, carotenoid, free radical scavenger Spin traps, retinoids and retinoid precursors such as retinol and retinyl palmitate, ceramides, polyunsaturated fatty acids, essential fatty acids, enzymes, enzyme inhibitors, hydrogen peroxides, minerals, hormones such as estrogens , Steroids such as hydrocortisone, 2-dimethylaminoethanol, copper salts such as copper chloride, copper containing peptides such as Cu: Gly-His-Ly, coenzyme QlO, amino acids, for example For example, proline, vitamins, lactobionic acid, acetyl-coenzyme, niacin, riboflavin, thiamine, ribose, electron transporters such as NADH and FADH2 and, for example, aloe vera, It is selected from the teumil, feverfew, mallow (malva), blueberry, fog tree (Cotinus coggygria), Chamomile, four herbs and plant extracts, and the group consisting of derivatives thereof, and mixtures of from soybeans. The benefit agent may generally be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount from about 0.001% to about 20% by weight of the composition, such as from about 0.005% to about 10%, for example from about 0.01% to about 5%. .

Examples of vitamins include vitamins, vitamins B such as vitamin B3, vitamin B5 and vitamin B12, vitamin C, vitamin K, vitamin E, such as alpha, gamma or delta-tocopherol and derivatives and mixtures thereof. However, it is not limited to these.

Examples of hydroxy acids include, but are not limited to, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, salicylic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid. Examples of antioxidants include water-soluble antioxidants such as sulfhydryl compounds and derivatives thereof (eg sodium metabisulfite and N-acetyl-cysteine), lipoic acid and dihydrolipoic acid, resveratrol, lactoferrin And ascorbic acid and ascorbic acid derivatives (eg, ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl polypeptides). Fat-soluble antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of the invention include butylated hydroxytoluene, retinoids (eg, retinol and retinyl palmitate), different forms of tocopherols (eg, alpha-, gamma- and delta). Tocopherols and esters thereof, such as acetates) and mixtures thereof, tocotrienols and ubiquinones. Natural extracts comprising antioxidants suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include flavonoids, isoflavonoids and derivatives thereof such as genistein and diadzein containing extracts (eg, soybean and clover extracts, for example). ), Including but not limited to resveratrol-containing extracts. Examples of such natural extracts include grape seed, green tea, pine bark and wax.

Particularly noteworthy benefits include skin revitalizing agents such as skin firming agents such as dimethylaminoethanol (“DMAE”); Neo-collagen improving agents such as sugars, retinoids, such as lactose and melibioses, such as retinol and copper containing peptides; Ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof; And alkanolamines, including soy extract.

In one aspect of the invention, the composition comprises alkanolmine, such as DMAE and anionic polymers, such as sodium polystyrene sulfonate, which forms a salt formulated at a pH suitable for skin application. In this way, DMAE can gradually be released from the membrane and diffuse into the skin to provide continuous lifting and elasticity to the skin.

Mineral water

The composition of the invention can be prepared using mineral water, for example natural mineralized mineral water, for example Evian ^R mineral water from Evian, France. In one embodiment, the mineral water has a mineralization of about 200 mg / L or more (eg, about 300 mg / L to about 1000 mg / L). In one embodiment, the mineral water comprises at least about 10 mg / L calcium and / or at least about 5 mg / L magnesium.

Other ingredients

In addition to the components mentioned above, other additives may be incorporated into the composition at concentrations from elasticity, stability, and other aspects of product performance. Such intact components include, for example, cosmetically acceptable preservatives, pH adjusting agents, chelating agents / isolating agents, viscosity modifiers such as sodium chloride; Dyes and fragrances.

Properties and Properties of the Composition

The composition may be in one of various forms, such as a gel or liquid, in which the various components may be dissolved, dispersed, emulsified, or suspended. The composition can be, for example, a hydroalcoholic system, an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion.

The inventors of the present invention surprisingly found that a particular composition wherein the oil is the majority of the external phase of the composition, such as a water-in-oil emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion, and wherein the composition comprises at least about 1% elasticity imparting polymer and optionally has one or more specific properties Note that this may be particularly desirable. For example, the composition may be a water-in-oil emulsion wherein the oil phase comprises at least about 15%, such as at least about 20%, such as from about 20% to about 40% of the composition. In one embodiment, the oil phase comprises at least about 10% silicone, such as at least about 40% silicone. The inventors of the present invention have found that oil-in-water emulsions having one or more of these properties can achieve malleable and aesthetic as well as sufficient elasticity and water resistance. This is particularly surprising since the oil cannot be intuitive for compositions that are external merchants that show elasticity, especially in the presence of organosilicones. By "oil phase" is meant a component of a formulation that is not water soluble or dispersible in water.

In one aspect, the composition can be substantially transparent. "Substantially transparent" means transparent or translucent when viewed through a layer less than about 10 cm thick. The substantially transparent composition may be one in which all particles are less than about 300 nm in size. Alternatively, the composition may be opaque, such as, for example, an emulsion or dispersion in which the particle size of the internal emulsified phase or dispersed mass is greater than about 300 nm. In order to prevent the film from imparting any particular color to the skin, the composition may be free of colorless or substantially colored pigments or dyes, for example generally found in makeup or color cosmetics. In another aspect of the invention, the composition comprises pigments or dyes that are colored to function as a combination of a makeup foundation and a firming composition.

The pH of the composition may be about 3 to 7, for example, about 5 to about 6.5. The total level of solids in the composition may vary, but may be greater than about 10%, such as about 12% to about 20%, such as about 15% and about 20%.

yield point

In one embodiment, the yield point of the composition is about 15 Pa to about 50 Pa. It may be desirable to have such a yield point for two reasons, 1) to prevent it from flowing down to the vertical surface of the skin after application and 2) to maintain a suspension of particulate material in the composition.

Note that the term “yield point” herein means the ability of the composition to prevent flowing under stress at very low shear rates. A composition with a yield point does not begin to flow until the stress applied to the system exceeds the yield point and the structure of the system collapses. When the stress is below the yield point, the system exhibits elastic or 'solid' behavior.

Yield points can be measured with vibration stress sweeps using the TA Instruments AR 2000 Rheometer (New Castle, Germany). A parallel plate seismograph of 0 ° and 40 mm diameter is used. The cap between the plates is set at 400 μm. All measurements are carried out at 25 ° C. and solvent drains are used to minimize evaporation during the experiment. The frequency remains constant at 1.00 Hz, while the vibrational stress increases from 0.010 Pa to 15920 Pa. Nine data points are collected for ten vibrational stress sweeps each. Yield point is defined as the stress in the discontinuities where strain occurs.

Viscosity

The composition must be extendable to the skin so that the composition can be applied with reasonable effort to a thin film over the skin or a portion thereof. In one embodiment, the viscosity of the composition is less than about 200,000 cps, such as less than about 100,000 cps, such as from about 30,000 cps to about 100,000 cps, such as from about 10,000 cps to about 90,000 cps, such as About 30,000 cps to about 60,000 cps.

"Viscosity" as defined herein is measured using a Brookfield viscometer and selecting spindle LV4 at 6.0 rpm. Every 30 seconds a reading is made in the viscometer. Once the reading stops changing by more than ± 3% of the previous reading, no more reading is done, and the last reading is recorded as a viscosity.

Product, packing and how to use

The composition can be sold as a product. The product may comprise a conventional bottle, jar or other container with a top or lid where the composition may be used by lightly tapping the composition by hand and applying the composition to the skin. The composition is generally applied to the skin in a thin film. Over time, the composition is generally partially absorbed into the skin and partially evaporated from the skin. The product may be applied to devices or applicators for topically applying the composition to the skin, such as foams, sponges or brushes, swabs, spray nozzles (eg aerosols), twist-up tubes, sticks and the like. It may include.

In one aspect of the invention, the product comprises an applicator comprising a surface for contacting the skin. One suitable applicator is the "stick applicator" shown in the cross section in FIG. The applicator 3 lengthens the stick or pencil applicator for applying the composition to the skin. The applicator 3 comprises a cylindrical shell 5 comprising a distal portion 7 and a proximal portion 9. In FIG. 3, the shell 5 is shown transparent to see the contents therein. The proximal portion 9 ends at the head portion 15. The distal portion 7 is rotatably coupled to the inner sewing rod 11 concentric with the shell 5. The sewn rod 11 is connected to a plunger 13 which can advance to the head portion 15 while rotating the distal portion 7. Rotation of the distal portion 7 (as indicated by the arrows in FIG. 3) may result in springs 19, gears or other mechanical members known to those skilled in the art of hand held applicators for dispersing liquids and gels. Induces a separate rotation of the rod 11 through the transmission assembly 17, which may include.

The composition (shown in parallel shading in FIG. 3) is a hollow tube 21 inside the reservoir, for example inside the shell 5, from the plunger 13 in the proximal direction (ie with respect to the head portion 15). (Shown as an image in FIG. 3). As the distal portion 7 rotates, the plunger 13 advances, causing the composition to move to the head portion 15. By adjusting the spacing of the treads in the rod 11, it is possible to adjust the separate distance at which the plunger 13 advances. For example, the plunger 13 may advance about 0.5 mm when the distal portion 7 rotates 360 degrees.

The inventors of the present invention have noted that, for the device of the present invention, it is particularly important to deliver the composition at an adjustable dose to prevent the film from being applied thickly which may cause cracking and flaking. This is especially true when considering that the general rheology of the compositions used is one of "shear thinning". This rheology is generally desirable for the end user, but often the device leads to additional product moving through the device even after the user stops to deliver a large number of compositions (eg, rotating around the distal portion 7). In order to deliver an accurate and controlled amount of the composition, the device can provide an audible "click" whenever the distal portion 7 rotates, for example every 45 °. Such controlled delivery may advance the plunger 13 such that a volume from about 0.001 cc to 0.01 cc of composition per discrete actuation (or “click”) protrudes through the skin contactable surface 41. This is helpful when a typical end user wants to “click” in two or three times by about 0.025 to about 0.25 cc (eg, about 0.05 to about 0.1 cc) and apply the composition to the skin through the device. The inventors of the present invention have found that such an amount helps to provide an appropriate film thickness.

The tube 21 extends into the head portion 15, and when exiting from the plunger 13, the composition is placed in any shear insert 25 located in the tube 21 into the head portion 15 from the tube 21. Proceed through (shown virtually in FIG. 3). Any shear insert 25 may be advantageous for use in combination with a composition that thins shear. Shear insert 25 is a fine pore medium and can be formed, for example, from closely packed polyethylene rods, spheres, and the like. Alternatively, the shear insert 25 can be formed from a screen of fine mesh grid. In one embodiment, the mean pore diameter of the shear insert 25 is between 50 μm and about 500 μm, for example between about 100 μm and about 200 μm (eg, between 125 and about 175 μm). The pore volume (% open area) of the shear insert 25 may be about 10% to about 70%, for example about 20% to about 60%, for example about 30% to about 40%. As an example, one suitable insert 25 comprises a plastic (eg polyethylene) sphere, with an average pore diameter of 150 μm and an open area of 40%.

Another suitable insert 25 comprises polyethylene spheres with an average pore diameter of 130 μm and an open area of 30%. Exemplary insert materials are available from the Porex Porous Group (Fairburn, GA) and sized to fit snugly within the tube 21 to be cut or otherwise forced to move through the composition therethrough. Can be.

Extrusion of the composition through the shear applicator 25 allows the use of a composition of relatively high viscosity (this delays the precipitation of any particulate material that can help to provide low gloss), but the composition is a good film for the skin. Shear to low viscosity before application for formation.

4 shows a partial perspective view of the head portion 15. The composition exiting the plunger 13 continues through the head portion 15 through the tube 21. The head portion 15 can be attached to the rest of the proximal portion 9 via snap fitting or other means. The composition then passes through a plurality of outer openings 45 and inner openings 47 across a plane 51 defined by the skin contactable surface 41. Examples of the shape of the opening include, but are not limited to, round, oval, rectangular, and the like. To contact the skin and the composition, a skin contactable surface 41 is placed on the user's skin (eg, skin in need of treatment). The skin contactable surface 41 can be rubbed or slipped into contact with the skin using the skin contacting surface 41 of the applicator 3 to distribute the composition in contact with the skin.

In one aspect of the invention, the skin contactable surface 41 is inclined (ie not perpendicular to the imaginary line 101 which runs vertically through the center of the shell 5). The inclined skin contactable surface 41 facilitates contact with various surfaces or contours of the skin (eg, eyes, nose, etc.) on the face. In particular, the angle 61 of the surface 41 will be from about 35 to about 60 degrees to facilitate this contact.

In addition, as shown in FIG. 4, in order to provide a refreshing softness to the skin contactable surface 41, the skin contactable surface 41 is made of a soft and comfortable cushioning material such as polyethylene, nylon, polyester, cotton, or the like. It can be covered with a sleeve of formed fibers.

The outer opening 45 and the inner opening 47 may be significantly larger than the pores of the shear insert 25, but in one embodiment are less than about 4 mm ² , for example less than about 1 mm ² . It is particularly preferred for the inventors of the present invention to have a device that provides a visual cue (i) that appears to the end user because it is extruded through the outer opening 45 and the inner opening 47, and (ii) such A "sufficiently visually" amount was found to be not too much in that the film deposits were so thick that the film was peeled off or cracked on the skin. As such, the inventors of the present invention have found that the area of the outer opening 45 and the inner opening 47 is preferably about 0.1 to about 0.5 mm ² . In addition, to balance the need for visual cues with the need for limited controlled dosages, it is desirable that the number of openings is between about 3 and about 100, for example between about 5 and about 25.

In addition, the inventors of the present invention further suggest that another means of balancing the need for visual cues with the need for limitedly regulated doses is that the interior and exterior openings 45 are sized into the skin contactable surface 41. It is noted that this is possible by including the opening 47. In one aspect of the invention, the outer opening 45 and the inner opening 47 have a size that varies with the position of the opening (ie, the distance of the opening from the center or the edge of the skin contactable surface 41). For example, the outer opening 45 near the edge of the skin contactable surface 41 may be of a relatively small size, while the inner opening 47 near the center of the skin contactable surface 41 may be of a relatively large size. There are two purposes for the size difference between the outer opening 45 and the inner opening 47. First, the larger inner opening 47 supplies most of the composition to the center of the surface 41 (as opposed to the edges). This causes too much of the composition to accumulate near the edge of the stick, and the part of the membrane that is fed into the skin is too thick, reducing the "pooling", which is an undesirable situation where the membrane peels off after drying. Second, the outer opening 45 provides the user with a visual clue / sign that it is fed to the surface 41. If no smaller opening is present, it is too thick for the user to administer to the surface 41, There is a tendency to supply the skin with a film which is easy to peel off.

The difference or inclination of the opening size can vary. For example, the diameter or area of the opening is directly proportional to the distance from the center of the skin contactable surface 41. Alternatively, the more centrally located inner opening 47 may be 30% to about 70% larger than the size of the outer opening 45.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the product contains instructions to the purchaser and / or user for application of the composition to the skin as discussed above. The instructions may direct the removal of the composition from the skin, for example by applying the composition to the skin and then rinsing with skin and water, for example. The instructions may further instruct to avoid skin contact, for example for at least about 1 minute, upon application of the composition. By waiting a predetermined time, the product can be restored to a durable state.

The instructions may further instruct the application of the elasticity imparting composition to the skin at a specific application cycle for at least about two weeks, for example at least once daily. The instructions direct the application of the elasticity imparting composition to the elasticity imparting composition at least twice a day for at least about 28 days, such as at least about 6 weeks, such as at least about 8 weeks. The inventors of the present invention have found that by applying the elasticity imparting composition, various advantages can be realized that outweigh the rapid onset of wrinkle reduction on the coating. These benefits include thickening of the epidermis, improved barrier properties, skin firmness and improved water retention. The composition may provide improved moisture retention, but the instructions may direct the application of moisture before or after application of the composition comprising the elasticity imparting polymer. "Moisturizer" means a composition that functions as a barrier to maintain a moisturized stratum corneum. A number comprising emollients (such as oils or other lipids or hydrophobic substances) in large proportions of the composition, for example greater than about 5%, such as greater than about 10%, such as greater than about 15% Particular mention may be made of heavy oil emulsions. Examples of emollients include mineral oils, mineral oils, vegetable oils (glycerol esters of fatty acids, triglycerides), waxes and other mixtures of ethers (not necessarily esters of glycerol); Polyethylene and non-hydrocarbon based oils such as, but not limited to, dimethicone, silicone oil, silicone rubber, and the like. By applying a moisturizer before applying the firming composition, the skin can make its flexibility more uniform and provide a more uniform coating of the firming composition.

In addition, the instructions may indicate that, although not necessarily required, the composition comprising the elasticity imparting polymer should be applied before makeup. Alternatively, the instructions may indicate that the composition is included after makeup. The instructions may further direct the application of the composition just before sleep at night.

Aspects of the present invention provide that the reduction of wrinkles on the skin, skin smoothing and / or skin firming are sufficient to achieve this benefit and have sufficient resistance to water and moisture, such that the membrane is exposed to such challenges. It is particularly advantageous in that a rapid onset of this benefit can be achieved using skin care compositions that do not irretrievably deteriorate but are not resistant enough to remove the membrane by cleaning. In addition, embodiments of the present invention provide for controlled release of a film that does not peel off to promote easy and uniform application in contact with the skin. Embodiments of the present invention also provide additional long-term benefits such as improved moisturizing, thickening and elasticity of the skin.

The following describes the preparation of the skin protection composition of the present invention. Other compositions of the present invention can be prepared in a similar manner by those skilled in the art.

Example  One:

The topical composition of Table 1 was prepared by filling the vessel with deionized water and then adding (in order) ethanol, premix (A) and premix (B) until homogeneous. Premix (A) was prepared by first filling another container with hexylene glycol, and then adding a chimeric PC until homogeneous. The premix (B) was charged with hexylene glycol in another container, followed by addition of plemenco sumit red and plemenco smitt gold. The resulting composition was placed in an applicator such as described above with respect to FIGS.

Trade name Unity Name (INCI) function % (w / w) Deionized water Deionized water Vehicle 59.25 Hexylene glycol Hexylene glycol Vehicle 6 Kitamer PC Chitosan Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid Elasticity imparting polymer 5 Ethyl alcohol ethanol Vehicle 20 Advanced Moisture Complex Glycerin, Water, Sodium PCA, Urea, Trehalose, Polyquaternium-51 and Sodium Hyaluronate Plasticizer 5 Flemenko Smith Red Mica, titanium dioxide Matting agent 0.02 Flemenko Smith Gold Mica, titanium dioxide Matting agent 0.02 Dao Corning 7-3101 Elastomer Blend Cyclopentasiloxane / dimethicone crosslinker, dimethicone Matting agent, plasticizer 5

Example  2:

The topical composition of Table 2 was filled with deionized water in a container, and then sequentially added ethanol, kitamer PC, advanced moiety complex and premix until homogenous. The premix was prepared by first filling the second vessel with hexylene glycol and then adding until homogeneous in the order of silica shell, silk, plemenco red and plemenco gold.

Trade name Unity Name (INCI) function % (w / w) Deionized water Deionized water Vehicle 61.09 Hexylene glycol Hexylene glycol Vehicle 6 Kitamer PC Chitosan Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid Elasticity imparting polymer 6 Ethyl alcohol ethanol Vehicle 20 Advanced Moisture Complex Glycerin, Water, Sodium PCA, Urea, Trehalose, Polyquaternium-51 and Sodium Hyaluronate Plasticizer 5 Flemenko Smith Red Mica, titanium dioxide Matting agent 0.09 Flemenko Smith Gold Mica, titanium dioxide Matting agent 0.09 Silica Shell (Kobo) Silica shell Matting agent 0.15 Silk knife 100 silk 1.6

Example  3

The topical compositions of Table 3 are prepared by filling deionized water in a container, followed by addition of sodium chloride, glycerin, DC 2501 and ZILGEL (in order), and then mixing appropriately. The premix is formed by blending hexylene glycol and kitamer and then adding to the vessel. The mixing was continued, and the vessel was heated to a temperature of about 60 to about 65 ° C. This is an award. In a separate vessel, the oil phase was prepared by adding items (8) to (15) together. It was heated to a temperature of about 60 to about 65 ° C. The oil phase was then added to the water phase with continued stirring for 5 minutes. Thereafter, the mixture was cooled with moderate mixing.

The composition is independently placed in an applicator of any of the above with respect to FIGS. The composition was dispersed according to the specification and applied to areas where wrinkle reduction is required (eg around the eyes).

Trade name Unity Name (INCI) function % (w / w) Deionized water Deionized water Vehicle 47.08 Hexylene glycol Hexylene glycol Vehicle 10 Kitamer PC Chitosan Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid Elasticity imparting polymer 5 Sodium chloride Sodium chloride Rheology modifier 0,6 glycerin glycerin Plasticizer One DC 2501 Cosmetic Wax Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane Plasticizer 5 ZILGEL oil Sodium Polyacrylate and PV / MA Copolymer Plasticizer 4 Dimethicone 245 α- (trimethylsilyl-w-methyl poly [oxy (dimethylsilylene)]) Plasticizer 10 BHT Butylated Hydroxytoluene antiseptic 0,07 Vitamin E Tocopherol acetate Plasticizer 0,5 Bisabolol 1-methyl-4- (1,5-dimethyl-1-hydroxysex-4 (5) -enyl) -cyclohexene-1; 6-methyl-2- (4-methyl-3-cyclohexen-1-yl) -5-hepten-2-ol Skin-Smoothing / Anti-inflammatory 0.5 Abil wax 9801 Cetyl dimethicone Plasticizer One Shin Etsu USG-103 Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicon-11 / Polymethylsilsesquinoxane Complex Plasticizer 10 Shin-Etsu KSG-210 Dimethicone PEG-10 / 15 Crosspolymer and Dimethicone Plasticizer, emulsifier, electrodeposition agent 5 Shin-Etsu KP-545 Cyclopentasiloxane and Acrylate / Dimethicone Copolymer Plasticizer 0.25

Example  4:

An eight-week mechanical study was conducted with six women aged 40-65 with skin type I-IV. Epidermal thickening was measured using a Confocal microscope at three sites on the upper inner arm prior to product application. Thereafter, a prototype containing 5% chimeric PC (chitosan PCA) was applied to one of the sites twice daily (morning and night) for 8 weeks. A commercial retinol product was applied to the second site as an obvious criterion. The third site was used as an untreated control. Two, four, six and eight weeks after product application were measured using a multifocal microscope. Statistically significant increase (μm) versus epidermal thickening versus control was observed at the chimeric PC treated sites at weeks 6 and 8, as shown in Table 4.

2 weeks 4 Weeks 6 Weeks 8 Weeks Untreated control 0.38 1.19 -1.37 1.2 Positive control 1.58 2.95 4.74 ^* 6.58 ^* Kittermer PC 1.36 2.68 3.63 ^* 3.68 ^*

^* = Significant (p <0.05) vs. untreated control

Example  5:

Six women aged 40 to 65 years with skin type I-IV were subjected to an 8-week mechanical study using a reviscometer. The leviscometer ^R RVM 600 (Corage and Khazaka, Cologne, Germany) measures the propagation time of elastic shear pulses in an elastic material. Since the preferred placement of collagen fibers corresponds to the skin's cleavage line (Lange's lines), the rate of expansion of elastic disorders on the skin will strongly depend on its orientation. Skin areas on the body with the most sagging skin (eg, upper inner arms, neck, thighs and abdomen based on collagen fiber orientation) will exhibit stronger orientation effects.

In this study, the inventors of the present invention select a device that allows the measurement of directional tension across the skin surface. The speed of sound depends on the density and elasticity of the propagating material, for example, sound travels faster in water than in air and moves faster than in solids. Mechanical vibrations, such as guitar strings, propagate faster than elasticity and have a higher frequency after plugging. The probe in contact with the skin of the device consists of two transducers located 1.5 to 2 mm apart and is mounted on two independent supports. Then, one transducer causes small amplitude (<1 mm) movement, and the second transducer measures when the failure caused by the first transducer arrives at its position. From this time, the inventors of the present invention can measure the rate of propagation, and thus the elasticity of the entire skin. If the movement of the transducer is in the range of less than 100 μm, the machine may possibly examine the elasticity in the epidermis, and as the movement becomes larger, the movement will include the dermis. The machines used in this study generate movements to study the epidermis and thin dermis. The time to catch the acoustic pulse traveling from the transmitter to the receiver is a measurement parameter called Resonance Running Time (RRT). The RRT depends on the directional orientation of the collagen bundle. Records at other angles 0 °, 45 °, 90 ° and 135 °. In this study, the reading obtains a 3 ° increase over the 100 ° range as a function of the angle. The full width at half maximum (FWHM) obtained from the Gaussian fit of RRT as a function of the anisotropy (A) of the measurement parameters, RRT _maximum / RRT _minimum , and measurement angle varies with age and the skin elasticity There are two new machine parameters that can be used to characterize. In this study, the inventors of the present invention will explain skin elasticity as a ratio of anisotropy before and after application of the product.

Skin elasticity was measured using a levometer ^R at three sites of the upper inner arm prior to product application. Subsequently, a base form containing 5% chimeric PC (chitosan PCA) was applied to one of the sites twice daily (morning and night) for 8 weeks. A commercial retinol product was applied to the second site as an obvious criterion. The third site was used as an untreated control. After 2, 4, 6 and 8 weeks of product application, the measurements were then made using a levometer ^R. A statistically significant increase in skin elasticity versus control was observed for the chimeric PC treated sites at 4 and 6 weeks as shown in Table 5.

2 weeks 4 Weeks 6 Weeks 8 Weeks Untreated control Not recorded Not recorded 7,74% 7.63% Positive control 77.34% ^* 73.57% ^* 58,71% ^* 48.46% Kittermer PC 29.9% ^* 51.65% ^* 46.67% ^* 11.88%

^* = Significant (p <0.05) vs. untreated control

Example  6

An eight-week mechanical study was conducted with six women aged 40-65 with skin type I-IV. Trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured using a Delfin closed-chamber vapo-meter at three sites in the upper inner arm prior to product application. Subsequently, a base form containing 5% chimeric PC (chitosan PCA) was applied to one of the sites twice daily (morning and night) for 8 weeks. A statistically significant decrease in TEWL (indicative increase in disability function) versus untreated control (g / m ² / hr) was observed for the chimeric PC treated site at week 2 as shown in Table 6.

2 weeks 4 Weeks 6 Weeks 8 Weeks Untreated control 2.18 1.87 3.22 -1.20 Positive control 0.4 2.75 3.53 -.15 Kittermer PC -0.92 0.41 0.81 -1.85

^* = Significant (p <0.05) vs. untreated control

While the foregoing is directed to various aspects of the invention, other and further aspects may be devised without departing from the basic scope thereof, the scope of which is determined by the following claims.

Claims (47)

An emulsion composition comprising at least about 35% water (i) and at least about 2% by weight elasticity imparting polymer (ii) having at least about 3 g / mg shrinkage and at least one having a water resistance index of about 0.9 to about 1.9. The emulsion composition of claim 1, wherein the contractility of the elasticity imparting polymer is from about 5 g / mg to about 30 g / mg. The emulsion composition of claim 1, wherein the elasticity imparting polymer is a cationic polysaccharide. The emulsion composition of claim 1, wherein the elasticity imparting polymer is a polysaccharide having a beta bond. The emulsion composition of claim 1, wherein the elasticity imparting polymer is a chitosan polymer. The emulsion composition of claim 5, wherein the chitosan polymer is a salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. The emulsion composition of claim 1, wherein the average molecular weight of the polymer is in the range of about 175,000 to about 650,000. The emulsion composition of claim 1, wherein the polymer is present at a concentration of about 3 to about 7 weight percent of the composition. The emulsion composition of claim 1, wherein the pH of the composition is about 3-7. The emulsion composition of claim 1 comprising at least about 1% by weight of an oil outer phase (i), an inner aqueous phase (ii) and an elasticity imparting polymer (iii). The emulsion composition of claim 10, wherein the oil external phase comprises one or more liquid silicone oils. The emulsion composition of claim 10, wherein the oil external phase comprises one or more solid silicone polymers. The emulsion composition of claim 11, wherein the emulsion composition comprises at least about 5% by weight of one or more liquid silicone oils. The emulsion composition of claim 10, wherein the emulsion comprises about 20 to about 40 weight percent of the oil external phase. The emulsion composition of claim 10 wherein the water resistance index of the imparting polymer is from about 0.9 to about 1.9. The emulsion composition of claim 10, wherein the contractility of the elasticity imparting polymer is from about 5 to about 30 g / mg. (I) comprising a skin protective composition comprising an elasticity imparting polymer having a contraction force of greater than about 3 g / mg and a water resistance index of about 0.9 to about 1.9 to the skin in need of treatment for signs of skin aging, One of skin aging selected from the group consisting of thickening, (ii) improving the barrier function of the skin, (iii) improving skin elasticity, improving skin elasticity, softening the skin surface and reducing the occurrence of skin wrinkles A method of treating one or more signs of skin aging, selected from the group consisting of treating abnormal signs. The method of claim 17, wherein the contractility of the elasticity imparting polymer is from about 5 to about 30 g / mg. The method of claim 17, wherein the elasticity imparting polymer is a cationic polysaccharide. The method of claim 17, wherein the elasticity imparting polymer is a polysaccharide having beta bonds. The method of claim 17, wherein the elasticity imparting polymer is a chitosan polymer. The method of claim 17, wherein the chitosan polymer is a salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. The method of claim 17, wherein the average molecular weight of the imparting polymer ranges from about 175,000 to about 650,000. The method of claim 17, wherein the elasticity imparting polymer is present at a concentration of about 3 to about 7 weight percent of the composition. The method of claim 17, wherein the composition is an emulsion. 18. The method of claim 17, wherein the composition is a water-in-oil emulsion. An apparatus for applying a fluid composition to the skin, comprising: a reservoir (i) containing a fluid composition comprising at least one elasticity imparting polymer and a skin contactable surface (ii) having at least one opening, the device from which: And adapted to be extruded to the skin contact surface through the above opening. The apparatus of claim 27, wherein the surface area of the skin contactable surface is less than about 100 mm ² . The apparatus of claim 27, wherein the surface area of the skin contactable surface is less than about 40 mm ² . The apparatus of claim 27, wherein the surface area of the skin contactable surface is less than about 15 mm ² . The apparatus of claim 27, wherein the skin contactable surface is substantially planar. The apparatus of claim 27, wherein the skin contactable surface has from about 3 to about 100 openings. The apparatus of claim 27, wherein the skin contactable surface does not have openings greater than about 4 mm ² in area. The apparatus of claim 27, comprising at least one first opening and at least one second opening, wherein the area of the at least one first opening is at least twice the area of the second opening. 33. The apparatus of claim 32, wherein the skin contact surface has 1 to 12 first openings and 2 to 12 second openings. The device of claim 27, wherein the at least one elasticity imparting polymer is present at a concentration of at least about 2% by weight. The device of claim 27, wherein the shrinkage of the at least one elasticity imparting polymer is greater than about 3 g / mg. The device of claim 27, wherein the composition has a viscosity of about 10,000 to 90,000 cps. 31. The device of claim 30, in the form of an elongate shell having an imaginary longitudinal axis forming an acute angle with a substantially planar skin contactable surface. The device of claim 39, wherein the angle is from about 35 to about 60 °. The apparatus of claim 27, further comprising a plunger adapted to extrude the fluid composition from the container through the one or more openings to the skin contact surface, wherein the plunger is adapted for controlled placement of the plunger in increments of less than about 0.1 mm. Device for applying a fluid composition to the skin. The apparatus of claim 27, adapted to extrude the fluid composition in an amount of from about 0.001 to about 0.01 cc to the skin contact surface through the one or more openings from the reservoir. The apparatus of claim 31, adapted to extrude the fluid composition in an amount from about 0.001 to about 0.01 cc to the skin contact surface through the one or more openings from the reservoir. (i) extruding the fluid composition from the reservoir through the one or more openings on the skin to the skin contacting surface, (ii) applying the fluid composition to the skin using the apparatus of claim 1 comprising applying the thus extruded fluid composition to the skin. 45. The method of claim 44, adapted to extrude the fluid composition in an amount from about 0.001 to about 0.01 cc to the skin contact surface through the one or more openings from the reservoir. 45. The method of claim 44, wherein the skin is a forehead, eye, cheek, nose, lower jaw, or chin tip. 45. The method of claim 44, wherein the composition is a water-in-oil emulsion.

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