KR20070079166A - Skin whitening cosmetic compositions containing vitamin c or derivatives thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

Provided is a skin whitening cosmetic composition which is able to effectively stabilize vitamin C or a derivative thereof by being trapped in water-in-oil dispersed formulation and improve the convenience in use by using silicone emollient with excellent and soft adhesiveness. The skin whitening cosmetic composition comprises 20.0-30.0 wt.% of vitamin C or a derivative thereof, 5.0-30.0 wt.% of silicone emollient having an average molecular weight of 300-2,000 such as dimethicone and cyclomethicone, 0.5-10.0 wt.% of a non-ionic surfactant such as sorbitan sesquioleate, polysorbate, dimethicone polyol, lipophilic glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, and the remaining amount of water.

Description

Skin whitening cosmetic compositions containing vitamin C or derivatives

The present invention relates to a whitening cosmetic composition containing a high content of vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives. More specifically, by trapping and stabilizing the vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives in the inner phase of the water-in-oil dispersion formulation, vitamin C derivatives are effectively prevented from being degraded by external environment such as water, temperature and air, and silicone emollients are used on the outer shell. It relates to a whitening cosmetic composition that improves the inconvenience in use, such as stickiness due to the jungle.

When the skin is exposed to ultraviolet rays, melanin (melanin), which determines the color of a person's skin, is synthesized and released, causing hyperpigmentation such as blemishes, freckles, and spots. In the synthesis of melanin, the enzyme tyrosinase generates dopaquinone using tyrosine in the cell as a substrate, and then the melanin copolymer is obtained through autooxidation and enzymatic reaction from dopaquinone. Is generated. Therefore, in order to prevent skin coloration in general, a method of reducing melanin synthesis by inhibiting some reactions during the production of melanin has been studied. Representative whitening ingredients known to inhibit the synthesis process as such, kojic acid, arbutin, vitamin A, vitamin C and the like.

In particular, vitamin C (Ascorbic acid) enhances the body's immune function, and when applied to the skin, promotes the production of collagen, a component of cartilage, capillaries, and muscles. Destroys the skin to prevent damage. In addition, antioxidants inhibit the action of free radicals to prevent wrinkles, keep skin healthy, help heal wounded skin tissue, prevent the formation of histamine, known to cause allergic reactions, It is known that the anti-aging effect and the whitening effect that prevents the formation of melamine to fade.

However, vitamin C is unstable as a structure similar to γ-lactone, and thus has a problem in that it is easily decomposed by oxidation because it reacts sensitively to the external environment such as air, especially oxygen, heat, and light. The oxidation of vitamin C is usually a continuous two-electron transfer process, whereby the dissociation of hydrogen ions creates a dehydroascobate radical, an intermediate of vitamin C, which is rich in reactivity. It is known to produce one molecule of vitamin C and dihydroascorbic acid by itself by reacting with two molecules. Such vitamin C is dissolved in a very small amount in the non-aqueous solution, while a large amount is dissolved in the aqueous solution, but due to the rapid oxidation, vitamin C is not stabilized enough, so in medicine, food, cosmetics, etc. It is reported that only a small amount of vitamin C can be used as an active ingredient.

In order to compensate for the inherent problems of vitamin C and to improve the stability, a research to improve the oxidation resistance to water, light and air by using a vitamin C derivative (ascorbic acid derivative) that has changed the structure of vitamin C It is going on. However, even when using a vitamin C derivative, there is a tendency to lose activity in the formulation due to the instability of the vitamin C itself, and when applied to the formulation, it is often sticky or burying in hand, causing a lot of inconvenience. In particular, when using a high content of vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives this problem becomes even greater.

Therefore, the present inventors have conducted research to solve the above-mentioned conventional problems, and as a result, by trapping vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives in the inner phase of the water-in-oil dispersion formulation, It has been found that the contact can be effectively prevented by lowering the activity of vitamin C. In addition, by using silicone emollient as a trauma, the present inventors have found that the problem of vitamin C derivatives caused by absorption and evaporation of moisture when applied to the skin can be remarkably improved. .

Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a composition of a whitening cosmetic that enhances convenience in use while effectively stabilizing a high content of vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives.

In order to achieve the above object, the whitening cosmetic composition of the present invention (A) 20.0 ~ 30.0% by weight of vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives based on the total weight of the composition; (B) 5.0 to 30.0% by weight of low molecular weight silicone emollients having an average molecular weight of 300 to 2000; (C) 0.5-10.0 wt% of nonionic surfactant; And (d) a residual amount of water.

In addition, the vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives are characterized in that it is collected in the inner phase of the water-in-oil dispersion formulation, and silicone emollient is used on the outer box.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

Vitamin C in the composition according to the invention may contain pure vitamin C or water soluble vitamin C derivatives. The vitamin C derivative is sodium ascorbylphosphate (SAP), magnesium ascorbylphosphate (MAP), calcium ascorbylphosphate (Calsium ascorbylphosphate), ascorbic acid polypeptide, ethyl ascorbate Ethyl ascorbyl ether, Ascorbyl dipalmitate, Ascorbyl palmitate, Ascorbyl stearate, Ascorbyl glucoside and Ascorbyl glucoside It is preferably selected from the group consisting of Ascorbyl ethylsilanol pectinate.

When applied to the human body using the water-soluble vitamin C derivative, since the mechanism of degradation into vitamin C by the enzyme such as phosphatase in the body is sure, it has the effects of whitening and elasticity of vitamin C as it is. However, when the oil-soluble vitamin C is used, such degradation mechanism is uncertain, and since it is known to cause serious skin damage in the human body, its use is excluded.

The content of the vitamin C or vitamin C derivative is preferably 20.0 to 30.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. This is because when the content of vitamin C or vitamin C derivative is less than 20% by weight, the effect is insignificant on skin whitening and elasticity, and when it is more than 30% by weight, it is difficult to expect further effects.

The composition of the present invention contains a silicone emollient with good adhesion to the skin and softness to improve the use problems such as stickiness, jungle, etc. of the vitamin C derivative. Silicone emollients are the major constituents of the trauma of water-in-oil dispersion formulations, preventing vitamin C derivatives from direct contact with the external environment, enhancing adhesion to the skin, and preventing vitamin C derivatives from sticking or getting on your hands. In addition, vitamin C derivatives help to absorb large amounts of vitamin C derivatives efficiently by preventing the evaporation of moisture that acts as a solvent in the process of absorption into the body.

The silicone emollient (silicone emollient) is not limited in kind, but is preferably selected from the group consisting of dimethicone (dimethicone) and cyclo methicone (cyclo methicone).

In addition, the silicon emollient is preferably used a low molecular weight silicone emulsifier having an average molecular weight of 300 ~ 2000. This is because when the molecular weight is less than 300, it is meaningless in terms of practicality by making the stability of the formulation unstable, and when the molecular weight is greater than 2000, it causes a large amount of stickiness due to the increase in the molecular weight. In fact, stickiness is often influenced by intermolecular attraction, but as molecular weight increases, the intermolecular van der Waals attraction increases, which also affects stickiness.

The content of the silicone emollient is preferably 5.0 to 30.0 wt% based on the total weight of the composition. This is because when the content of the silicone emollient is less than 5% by weight, its effect is insignificant, and it does not satisfy the function as a whitening cosmetic, and when it is more than 30% by weight, side effects such as skin irritation due to excessive vitamin C are concerned.

The nonionic surfactant contained in the composition of the present invention is a surfactant in which a hydrophilic group is not composed of ionic groups and exhibits partial charge, and improves the stability of the emulsion like other ionic surfactants. However, since they are generally less irritating than ionic surfactants, they are often used in products close to the human body, such as cosmetics. The nonionic surfactant is not limited in kind, but is composed of sorbitan sesquioleate, polysorbate, dimethicone copolyol, lipophilic glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate, and PIG-100 stearate. It is preferably selected from.

The content of the nonionic surfactant is preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. If the content of the nonionic surfactant is less than 0.5% by weight, the water-in-oil dispersion formulation is unstable and the internal and external wounds are separated after several months of storage. This is because it causes skin irritation problems.

The skin whitening cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited in its formulation, but it is a softening lotion, nourishing lotion, massage cream, nourishing cream, pack, gel, essence, lipstick, makeup base, foundation, lotion, ointment, gel, cream , Patches and sprays.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Examples, but the present invention is not limited only to these examples.

[Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-3]

Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were prepared according to the following preparation method according to the composition of the water-in-oil dispersion form emulsifier. The viscosity was about 16,000 cps and the viscosity was measured at 30 ° C. at 12 rpm using Brookfield (LVDVII +).

Composition (wt%) Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 (1) water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 (2) glycerin 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 (3) butylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 10.00 10.00 (4) Vitamin C derivative Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 22.00 22.00 22.00 22.00 22.00 22.00 22.00 Ascorbylglucoside 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 (5) nonionic surfactants Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.0 3.0 - - - 3.0 3.0 Polysorbate 80 1.0 - 3.0 - - 2.0 2.0 Dimethicone Copolyol 1.0 - - 3.0 - - - (6) silicone emollient Dimethicone (average molecular weight 1500) 5.0 20.0 5.0 10.0 - - - Cyclomethicone (average molecular weight 400) 5.0 - 10.0 5.0 - - 5.0 Dimethicone (average molecular weight 5000) - - - - - - 10.0 (7) polysilicon 11 10.0 - 15.0 15.0 - - 15.0 (8) Citric Acid 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5

 <Production method>

① First, dissolve components (1) to (3) in a beaker or flask.

② Mix ingredients (4) ~ (7) together at room temperature and dissolve them sufficiently.

③ Add ② to ① and mix well at 6000rpm.

④ Add ingredient (8) to ③ to adjust pH between 6.0 and 7.0.

Test Example 1 Activity test for vitamin C derivatives

The initial titers of the vitamin C derivatives in the compositions of Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were set to 100, and the titers of the vitamin C derivatives after one month were measured at room temperature, 37 ° C, and 40 ° C. Is shown in Table 2.

sample Room temperature 37 ℃ 40 ℃ Example 1 98.2 94.5 92.1 Example 2 97.1 94.1 93.0 Example 3 97.5 95.0 91.6 Example 4 97.4 94.6 90.9 Comparative Example 1 92.2 85.3 80.1 Comparative Example 2 93.0 84.1 79.5 Comparative Example 3 97.3 94.0 92.9

As can be seen from Table 2, it can be seen that in Examples 1 to 4, the decrease in the titer of the vitamin C derivative over time is smaller than that of Comparative Examples 1 to 2. On the other hand, when comparing Example 4 and Comparative Example 3 using a large molecular weight silicone emollient, it can be seen that the similar level of titer.

Test Example 2 Whitening Effect Test on Human Skin

After attaching an opaque tape with 6 holes of 1.5cm diameter to the upper forearm of the subject, 12 healthy men were treated with 1.5 ~ 2 times the UVB of Minimal Erythema Dose. Was irradiated to induce skin blackening. Next, the compositions of Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were applied twice daily (morning and evening), and after 2 months, the light and dark of the skin were measured using a chromameter. The determination of the effect was determined by obtaining a "L" value representing the darkness of the skin (unburned Korean skin color generally indicates a value of 50-70). When the test substance is applied, the L value is gradually increased, and the comparison between the test substances is expressed as ΔL value (final L value-value before application of the test substance). The greater the ΔL value, the greater the whitening effect, and the ΔL values according to the experimental results are shown in Table 3 below.

sample Whitening effect (ΔL) Example 1 3.21 Example 2 3.15 Example 3 3.07 Example 4 3.40 Comparative Example 1 2.62 Comparative Example 2 2.48 Comparative Example 3 3.21

As can be seen from Table 3, it was confirmed that the ΔL values of Examples 1 to 4 exhibited higher values than Comparative Examples 1 to 2. On the other hand, in the case of Comparative Example 3 it can be seen that the whitening effect almost similar to Examples 1 to 4.

Test Example 3 Usability Test by Professional Panel

Subjects were evaluated for subjective efficacy through a questionnaire on skin stickiness and stickiness after using Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-3. The questionnaire survey was to indicate the satisfaction of the product effect for each item of skin jungle, stickiness change divided by 1-5 points (the higher the number, the higher the satisfaction), and the results are shown in Table 4 below.

sample Satisfaction (Average Score) Skin jungle Skin stickiness Example 1 4.5 4.0 Example 2 4.4 4.7 Example 3 4.0 3.9 Example 4 4.3 4.5 Comparative Example 1 1.5 1.0 Comparative Example 2 1.3 1.2 Comparative Example 3 1.2 1.0

As can be seen from Table 4, in the case of Examples 1 to 4 it can be seen that the effect of improving the skin, stickiness compared to Comparative Examples 1-3. In particular, in the case of Comparative Example 3, the effect of the titer and whitening effect on the vitamin C of Test Examples 1 and 2 showed similar results to those of Example 4, whereas in the usability test results by specialized panels Showed a difference. That is, in the case of Comparative Example 3 using a high molecular weight silicone emollient, it can be seen that the results are very negative in skin sticking and stickiness.

As described above, by using a water-in-oil dispersion formulation, by trapping a high content of vitamins or vitamin C derivatives in the inner phase, it was found that the stability of the vitamins and vitamin C derivatives is further increased and the whitening efficacy of the human body is also improved. In addition, it was possible to improve the usability of the formulation such as stickiness and jungle by using a soft silicone emollient with excellent adhesion as a trauma. As a result, the composition according to the present invention exhibits an excellent whitening effect and is useful as a whitening cosmetic.

Claims (6)

Relative to the total weight of the composition, (A) 20.0 to 30.0% by weight of vitamin C or vitamin C derivatives; (B) 5.0 to 30.0% by weight of silicone emollient having an average molecular weight of 300 to 2000; (C) 0.5-10.0 wt% of nonionic surfactant; And (D) remaining water Whitening cosmetic composition characterized in that the water-in-oil dispersion formulation containing. The method of claim 1, wherein the vitamin C derivative is sodium ascorbylphosphate (SAP), magnesium ascorbylphosphate (MAP), calcium ascorbylphosphate (Calsium ascorbylphosphate), ascorbic acid polypeptide (Ascorbic) acid polypeptide, ethyl ascorbyl ether, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbylglucoside (Ascorbyl glucoside) and ascorbyl ethylsilanol pectinate (Ascorbyl ethylsilanol pectinate) A whitening cosmetic composition, characterized in that selected from the group consisting of. According to claim 1, wherein the silicone emollient is a whitening cosmetic composition, characterized in that selected from the group consisting of dimethicone and cyclomethicone. The nonionic surfactant according to claim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of sorbitan sesquioleate, polysorbate, dimethicone copolyol, lipophilic glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate, and PIG-100 stearate. Whitening cosmetic composition, characterized in that selected. According to claim 1, wherein the composition is a whitening cosmetic composition, characterized in that the improved skin and stickiness. The composition of claim 1 wherein the composition is from a group consisting of softening cream, nourishing cream, massage cream, nourishing cream, pack, gel, essence, lipstick, makeup base, foundation, lotion, ointment, gel, cream, patch and spray. Whitening cosmetic composition, characterized in that selected.