KR20010106287A - Natural Dyeing Method Combining Colored Soil Dyeing and Plant Dyeing and Its Dyed Natural Fabrics - Google Patents
Natural Dyeing Method Combining Colored Soil Dyeing and Plant Dyeing and Its Dyed Natural Fabrics Download PDFInfo
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- KR20010106287A KR20010106287A KR1020010044166A KR20010044166A KR20010106287A KR 20010106287 A KR20010106287 A KR 20010106287A KR 1020010044166 A KR1020010044166 A KR 1020010044166A KR 20010044166 A KR20010044166 A KR 20010044166A KR 20010106287 A KR20010106287 A KR 20010106287A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/34—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using natural dyestuffs
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/0076—Dyeing with mineral dye
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
- D06P5/20—Physical treatments affecting dyeing, e.g. ultrasonic or electric
- D06P5/2044—Textile treatments at a pression higher than 1 atm
- D06P5/2061—Textile treatments at a pression higher than 1 atm after dyeing
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
- D06P5/20—Physical treatments affecting dyeing, e.g. ultrasonic or electric
- D06P5/2066—Thermic treatments of textile materials
- D06P5/2083—Thermic treatments of textile materials heating with IR or microwaves
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Abstract
Description
본 발명은 색토(色土)염색과 식물염색을 결합한 천연염색방법과 그 염색된 직물에 관한 것으로, 자연계에 다양하게 존재하는 색토와 식물에서 추출시킨 염료를 이용하여 실크, 광목, 마 등의 천연섬유를 염색하여 다양한 색상과 새롭고 고급스러운 느낌의 색감을 창출하는 천연섬유의 염색방법 및 그 직물에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a natural dyeing method that combines color soil dyeing and plant dyeing and dyed fabrics, using natural dyes, silk, hemp, hemp, etc. The present invention relates to a method of dyeing a natural fiber and its fabric, which dye a fiber and create a variety of colors and a new and luxurious color.
최근들어 천연섬유를 이용한 의복에 대한 관심과 수요가 급증하면서 전통염색방법인 흙염색과 식물염색이 각광을 받고 있다. 전통염색방법인 흙염색과 식물염색은 일반적으로 소박함과 옛스러움을 연출함으로써 일단 대중의 관심을 끄는데는성공하였으나 아직도 화학염료가 가지는 세탁 및 일광 등에 의한 염색견뢰도, 다양한 색상 및 광택성 등과 같은 대중적 취향의 성질에는 한계를 가지고 있어 폭넓게 이용되지 못하고 있다.In recent years, as the interest and demand for clothing using natural fibers have soared, traditional dyeing methods, such as soil dyeing and plant dyeing, have been in the spotlight. Soil dyeing and plant dyeing, which are traditional dyeing methods, have generally succeeded in attracting the public's attention by creating simplicity and old-fashionedness, but they still have popular tastes such as color fastness, washing and daylight, and various colors and gloss. There is a limit to the nature and is not widely used.
흙염색은 주로 황토나 개펄에서 나오는 뻘을 원료로 사용하여 염색하는 방법으로 원료를 쉽게 구할 수 있고, 친환경적인 특성과 현대인의 자연회귀 조류에 맞물려 선호되고 있다. 이러한 흙염색 가운데에서도 황토를 이용한 방법이 주류를 이루고 있으나 황토염색의 경우 황토염료의 제조방법이나 황토염색의 문제점인 섬유에 대한 염료의 고착력을 향상시키는 것에 연구가 집중되고 있다.Soil dyeing is a method that can be easily obtained by dyeing the soil, which is mainly derived from ocher or gaeul, as a raw material, and is favored by being eco-friendly and interlocking with the natural revolving algae of modern people. Among the soil dyeings, the method using ocher is the mainstream, but in the case of ocher dyeing, research is focused on improving the fixing ability of dyes to fibers, which is a problem of ocher dyeing or ocher dyeing.
그러나, 이러한 종래 흙염색은 황토-황토색, 뻘-회색 이라는 단조로운 색 밖에 내지 못하는 단점을 가지고 있어 오늘날의 의류산업에 폭넓게 적용하기 위해서는 색상의 다양화, 색감의 고급화 등이 요구되고 있다.However, the conventional earth dyeing has a disadvantage of only producing a monochromatic color such as ocher-ocher and ocher-grey, so that various applications of today's apparel industry are required to diversify colors and to enhance color.
또한, 전통적으로 내려오는 식물염색은 식물이 포함하고 있는 색소성분을 이용하여 단순히 옷감에 물들이는 방식으로 염색하여 사용하여 왔다. 식물염색이 흙염색에 비하여 좀 더 다양한 색을 연출할수 있다고는 하나, 식물염색 단독으로만 사용할 경우에는 형광빛이 너무 강해 눈에 피로감을 줄 뿐만 아니라 색감이 깊지 못하고 가벼워 보이는 단점을 가지고 있다.In addition, the traditional dyeing of plants has been used by simply dyeing the fabric by using the pigment components contained in the plant. Although plant dyeing can produce more diverse colors than soil dyeing, it is disadvantageous to use only plant dyeing alone because the fluorescent light is so strong that it not only makes the eyes tired but the color is not deep and light.
상기 흙염색과 식물염색은 염색결과에 있어서 가장 중요시 되는 세탁견뢰도와 일광견뢰도를 비교해 볼 때, 기존의 흙염색의 경우 그 결과물에 있어서는 일광견뢰도는 높은 편이나 세탁견뢰도는 2∼3등급 정도로 낮고, 식물염색의 경우 세탁견뢰도는 비교적 높은 편이나 일광견뢰도는 2∼3등급 정도로 낮은 편이다.The soil dyeing and plant dyeing are the most important in the dyeing results when comparing the color fastness and daylight fastness, in the case of the conventional soil dyeing results in the light fastness is high, but the wash fastness is as low as 2-3 grades, In the case of plant dyeing, the fastness to washing is relatively high, but the light fastness to the level of 2 to 3 is low.
따라서, 본 발명자는 상술한 제반사항을 고려하여 기존의 식물염색 결과에서 나타나는 형광빛 등에 의한 부자연스러움을 개선하고, 깊이 있는 색감을 얻기 위한 방법으로 흙염색의 특징인 투박한 인상의 색감 모티브를 연구한 결과, 자연계에 존재하는 다양한 종류의 색토와 식물염료의 결합에 의해 종래의 흙염색 또는 식물염색이 제공하는 색감과 차별되는 새로운 색감을 만들어 내고, 일광 및 세탁견뢰도 역시 함께 상승하는 점을 발견하게 되어 본 발명을 완성하였다.Accordingly, the present inventors have studied the color motif of the crude impression, which is characteristic of soil dyeing, as a method for improving the unnaturalness caused by the fluorescent light and the like, which is obtained from the conventional plant dyeing results, and obtaining a deeper color in consideration of the above-mentioned matters. As a result, by combining various kinds of color soil and plant dyes existing in the natural world, it creates a new color different from the color provided by conventional soil dyeing or plant dyeing, and also finds that daylight and washing fastness also increase together. The present invention has been completed.
따라서, 본 발명의 목적은 기존의 흙염색이 지닌 색상의 단조로움(황색, 회색)과 기존의 식물염색이 지닌 강한 형광빛 및 색감의 가벼움을 개선하기 위하여 색토염색과 식물염색의 결합을 통하여 다양한 색상을 연출할 수 있을 뿐만 아니라 깊이 있고 더욱 자연스러운 색감을 창출하여 기존의 흙염색 또는 식물염색을 단독으로 사용하는 경우에 비하여 완성도를 더욱 높인 색토염색과 식물염색을 결합한 천연염색방법을 제공하는데 있다.Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to improve the lightness of the monochromatic (yellow, gray) color of the existing soil dyeing and the strong fluorescent light and color of the conventional plant dyeing through a combination of color soil dyeing and plant dyeing The present invention provides a natural dyeing method combining color soil dyeing and plant dyeing, which not only can produce color but also create deeper and more natural colors, and has a higher level of perfection compared to the case of using soil dyeing or plant dyeing alone.
또한 본 발명은 상기의 천연염색방법에 의하여 염색된 천연직물을 제공하는데 그 목적이 있다.It is also an object of the present invention to provide a natural fabric dyed by the natural dyeing method.
도 1은 본 발명에 의해 천연섬유에 색토를 하염하고 그 위에 식물염색을 행하는 염색방법의 순서도이다.Figure 1 is a flow chart of the dyeing method of dyeing the clay to natural fibers according to the present invention and dyeing the plants thereon.
상기의 목적을 달성하기 위하여 본 발명은, 자연에서 채취된 색토를 물로 수비하여 미립화된 색토염료를 준비하는 단계와, 죽의 형태로 수비된 색토염료를 물과 혼합하여 염액을 만드는 단계와, 잘 정련된 천연섬유를 상기 염액이 들어있는 염색조에 투입하고 80∼90℃의 온도에서 염색 및 수세·건조한 후 다시 수세하는 단계와, 그 수세된 천연섬유를 100∼130℃의 온도, 1∼1.3 압력 조건에서 열처리하고 다시 수세하는 단계와, 염색하고자 하는 식물염료를 준비하여 각 식물염료의 통상적인 염색방법을 따라 식물염색하는 단계로 이루어지는 색토염색과 식물염색을 결합한 천연 염색방법 임을 그 특징으로 한다.In order to achieve the above object, the present invention comprises the steps of preparing the atomized color soil dye by deflecting the color soil collected from nature with water, and preparing a saline solution by mixing the color clay dye defended in the form of porridge with water, well The refined natural fiber is added to the dye bath containing the salt solution, dyed, washed and dried at a temperature of 80 to 90 ° C., followed by washing again, and the washed natural fiber at a temperature of 100 to 130 ° C. and 1 to 1.3 pressure. It is characterized in that it is a natural dyeing method combining the color soil dyeing and plant dyeing comprising the step of heat-treating under the conditions and washing with water again, preparing plant dyes to be dyed and plant dyeing according to the conventional dyeing method of each plant dye.
이하, 본 발명을 첨부된 도 1의 순서도를 참고하여 상세히 설명하면 다음과 같다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the flowchart of FIG. 1.
미립화된 색토염료를 준비하는 단계Steps to Prepare Atomized Color Soil Dye
본 발명에서 사용하는 색토는 자연계에 산재해 있는 것을 각 색상별로 채취하여 불순물을 골라내고, 입자가 고운 것을 가려내 분말형태의 색토분을 준비한다.The clay used in the present invention collects impurities scattered in nature for each color, picks out impurities, and sifts fine particles to prepare powdery clay powder.
준비된 색토분에서 각 색상별로 물에 풀어 잘 저어서 흙탕물로 만든 후, 그 흙탕물의 윗물을 다른 그릇에 아주 천천히 따라서 옮긴다. 그리고 밑에 남은 찌꺼기는 버린다. 옮겨진 윗물의 흙이 다시 가라 앉아 맑아지면 다시 그 윗물을 따라내어 저장용기에 옮겨놓는다. 이러한 수비과정을 여러번 되풀이 하여 가라앉아 남아있는 일정한 양의 색토 미립자 죽을 얻는다. 이 색토 미립자 죽에 천일염을 넣어 짠맛이 살짝 느껴질 정도로 밑간을 하고 5일 이상 놓아둔다.In the prepared clay powder, dissolve in water for each color, stir well to make muddy water, and then slowly transfer the top water of the muddy water to another bowl. And discard the remaining residue. When the soil of the transferred supernatant subsides and clears up, it is poured out again and placed in a storage container. This defensive process is repeated several times to sink and obtain a certain amount of remaining clay clay. Add natural salt to this clay porridge, so that it is slightly salty and leave for at least 5 days.
색토염액을 만드는 단계Steps to Make a Saline Saline Solution
5일 이상 놓아둔 색토 미립자 죽에 욕비 1:15가 되도록 물을 부어 색토염액을 만든다. 이때 상기 색토염료 준비과정에서 마련된 각 색토는 단독으로 사용해 색토를 그대로 염색하거나, 2종 이상의 색토 상호간 혼합을 하여 백색, 황색,주황색, 주홍색, 녹색, 쑥색, 카키색, 밤색, 보라색, 회색, 검정색 등의 다양한 색토염액을 제조할 수 있다.Toss the clay clay particles that have been left for more than 5 days to pour the water so that the ratio is 1:15. In this case, each of the color clays prepared in the process of preparing the color clay dyes is used alone to dye the color clays, or by mixing two or more types of color clays together, white, yellow, orange, scarlet, green, mugwort, khaki, brown, purple, gray, black, etc. Various saline solutions can be prepared.
색토염색 단계Color staining stage
본 발명에서 염색하고자 하는 천은 실크, 광목, 마, 모, 견 등과 같은 천연섬유로서 염색 한시간 전에 염색하고자 하는 천을 뜨거운 물에 담가둔다. 색토염액을 가열하여 30℃에서 천을 염색조에 넣은 후, 신속하게 80℃까지 온도를 올려 20분간 염색한다. 이때 천천히 잘 교반하여 염액이 천에 골고루 스며들게 한다.The cloth to be dyed in the present invention is a natural fiber such as silk, ore, hemp, wool, silk, etc., soaking the cloth to be dyed an hour before dyeing in hot water. Heat the saline solution and place the cloth in a dye bath at 30 ° C. Then, quickly raise the temperature to 80 ° C and dye for 20 minutes. At this time, stir well and let the salt solution soak into the cloth evenly.
수세, 건조 및 열처리단계Washing, drying and heat treatment steps
20분간 염색한 뒤, 따뜻한 물로 수세하여 맑은 물이 나올때까지 헹궈내고 다시 수세하여 직사광선에서 잘 건조시킨다. 잘 마른천을 압력이 가능한 열처리기에 넣어 압력 1∼1.3기압, 100 내지 130℃의 조건으로 열처리한다. 이때 마련된 열처리기가 없으면 적은 양의 염색물인 경우 압력밥솥을 사용해도 무관하다.(단, 실크의 경우 80℃가 넘으면 연하게 물러지므로 열처리하지 않는다)열처리 후 다시 건조하고 수세한다.Dye for 20 minutes, rinse with warm water, rinse until clear water comes out, rinse again and dry well in direct sunlight. The dry cloth is placed in a heat-treatable heat pressurizer and heat-treated under conditions of 1 to 1.3 atm and 100 to 130 ° C. At this time, if there is no heat treatment machine, it is irrelevant to use a pressure cooker in case of small amount of dyeing. (However, in case of silk, it will softly recede when it is over 80 ℃.) After heat treatment, dry and wash again.
식물염색 단계Plant Dyeing Stages
본 발명에서 사용하는 식물은 홍화, 꼭두서니, 치자, 배롱나무잎, 올리브 등과 같이 고유의 색소들을 추출해 낼 수 있는 식물들을 사용하며, 각 식물염료의 제조방법은 통상의 방법을 사용한다. 준비된 식물염료로 각 식물염색에 준하는 염액을 만든 후, 색토로 염색된 천을 염액이 든 염색조에 넣고 각 식물염료염색에 준하는 방법으로 염색, 매염, 반색, 수세, 건조한다.Plants used in the present invention uses plants that can extract the unique pigments, such as safflower, marshmallow, gardenia, barberry, olive, etc., each plant dye using a conventional method. After making the dye solution corresponding to each plant dye with the prepared plant dyes, put the cloth stained with color soil into the dyeing tank containing the dye solution, and dye, mordant, hemicolor, wash and dry by the method according to each plant dye dye.
상기 매염시에는 매염제로는 백반 또는 초산알루미늄을 사용하며 이들의 역활은 물에 녹으면서 양이온화하여 약한 마이너스(-) 성질을 띄고 있는 색토입자 또는 식물의 색소입자를 천에 흡착 또는 응집시키는 작용을 하게 되므로 염착력을 향상시키는 역활을 하게 되어 염색물의 염색견뢰도를 증진시키게 된다.When the mordant is used as a mordant, alumina or aluminum acetate is used, and its role is to absorb or agglomerate color clay particles or pigment particles of plants having weak negative (-) properties by dissolving in water and cationizing. Because it will play a role to improve the dyeing power will improve the color fastness of the dye.
본 발명의 천연염색방법에 의하여 염색된 천연섬유는 상기 매염제의 사용과 색토염료와 식물염료의 동시 사용에 의한 상승작용에 의하여 섬유에 대한 염료의 고착력 또는 염착력을 배가하게 한다. 따라서, 종래의 천연섬유염색과는 달리 세탁, 마찰 및 일광견뢰도 등의 염색견뢰도에서 모두 4등급 이상의 우수한 견뢰도를 갖게되어 색상의 다양화, 실루엣 효과 및 카멜레온 현상 등에 의한 색감의 고급화와 더불어 천염섬유염색에 대한 소비자의 기호도를 충족하게 된다.The natural fiber dyed by the natural dyeing method of the present invention doubles the adhesion or dyeing power of the dye to the fiber by synergy by the use of the mordant and the simultaneous use of the colorant dyes and plant dyes. Therefore, unlike conventional natural fiber dyeing, all dyeing fastness such as washing, friction, and light fastness have excellent fastness of all grades 4 or more, and the dyeing of fiber dyes with high quality of color due to diversification of color, silhouette effect and chameleon phenomenon To satisfy the consumer's preference for.
이하 본 발명을 다음 실시예를 통하여 더욱 구체적으로 설명하겠는 바, 본 실시예가 본 발명의 범위를 한정하는 것은 아니다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples, which are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention.
실시예 1Example 1
라미(Ramie)류의 마천을 잿물에 하루 쯤 담가둔 후, 소다회와 중성세제를 넣고 100℃에서 1시간 끓여 정련한다. 이때 소다회와 중성세제의 양은 천무게의 10중량%를 사용하였다. 정련 후, 충분히 수세한 뒤 80℃의 물에 1시간 천을 담궈 전습윤 시키고 주홍 색토죽과 물의 욕비를 1:15로 맞추어 염색용기에 넣고 가열하여 80℃의 온도에서 20분간 염색했다. 따뜻한 물로 수세하여 염착되지 않은 흙을 털어내고 직사광선에서 건조시킨 후, 찬물로 다시 수세하였다.After immersing Ramie-type macheon in lye for about a day, add soda ash and neutral detergent and boil at 100 ℃ for 1 hour to refine. At this time, the amount of soda ash and neutral detergent used 10% by weight of the cloth. After rinsing, after rinsing sufficiently, the cloth was soaked for 1 hour in water at 80 ° C., pre-wetted, and the mixture of scarlet porridge and water at 1:15 was placed in a dyeing vessel and heated and dyed at 80 ° C. for 20 minutes. Wash with warm water to shake off unstained soil, dry in direct sunlight, and wash again with cold water.
열처리기에 주홍색토가 염색된 천을 넣고 압력 1.2에서 온도 130℃에 이르도록 열처리 한 뒤 수세 건조하였다. 이와 같이 주홍색토로 염색된 천을 80℃의 온도의 물에 1시간 담궈 전습윤 시켰다.The cloth was dyed with vermilion earth, and heat-treated at a pressure of 1.2 at a temperature of 130 ° C. and washed with water. The cloth dyed with scarlet soil was soaked in water at a temperature of 80 ° C. for 1 hour and pre-wet.
식물염료의 추출 및 염색Extraction and dyeing of plant dyes
치자 1.2㎏에 물 2ℓ 넣고 압력이 걸리는 열처리기에 넣어 압력 1.5, 온도 130℃에 이르도록 가열하여 염액을 추출한 후, 추출된 치자 원액과 물의 욕비를 1:15로 맞춰 다시 가열 40℃의 온도에서 염색조에 습윤된 천을 넣어 80℃에 이르게 하고 이 온도에서 40분간 염색하였다.2 liters of water was added to 1.2 kg of Gardenia jasminoides, heated to a pressure of 1.5 and a temperature of 130 ℃, and the salt solution was extracted.Then, the ratio of the extracted Gardenia stock solution and water was adjusted to 1:15 and dyed at 40 ℃. Wet cloth was added to the bath to reach 80 ℃ and dyed at this temperature for 40 minutes.
따뜻한 물과 찬물에 차례로 수세한 후, 천무게의 5% 백반을 1리터의 물에 녹이고 다시 이 용액을 10리터의 물에 부어 매염액을 만든 후, 상기의 천을 넣고 가열하여 70℃에서 30분 매염하고 수세 건조하였다. 상기의 방법으로 염색한 결과 형광빛이 약해져 색감이 부드러워진 적미를 띤 짙은 황색으로 염색된 천을 얻었다.After rinsing with warm and cold water in turn, dissolve 5% alum in 1000 liters of water in 1 liter of water and pour this solution in 10 liters of water to make a mordant solution. It was dried and washed with water. As a result of dyeing in the above manner, the fabric was dyed in dark yellow with a reddish color with weak fluorescent color and soft color.
실시예 2Example 2
실크천을 사용하고 베이지 핑크의 색토를 사용한 것을 제외하고는 실시예 1의 색토를 하염하는 방법과 동일하게 수행하고, 치자 1.2kg에 물 4ℓ를 붓고 식초 50㎖를 넣고 압력 1.5, 온도 130℃에 이르도록 가열하여 1차 염액을 만든 후, 이 염액에 물 20ℓ를 가하여 욕비 1:5의 2차 염액을 만들었다. 이 염액을 가열하여 40℃에서 베이지 핑크의 색토로 하염한 실크천을 넣고 75℃에 이르도록 한 뒤 30분간 염색한 후 초산알루미늄 25g을 물 20ℓ에 녹여 30분간 매염하고 수세하여 염색을 완성하였다.Except for using a silk cloth and beige pink clay, the same method as for salting the clay in Example 1 was carried out. 1.2 liters of Gardenia pour 4 liters of water, 50 ml of vinegar, and a pressure of 1.5, reached a temperature of 130 ℃ After heating to make a primary salt solution, 20 liters of water was added to the salt solution to make a secondary salt solution having a bath ratio of 1: 5. The salt solution was heated to put a silk cloth lowered with beige pink clay at 40 ° C., and then reached 75 ° C., and then dyed for 30 minutes. Then, 25 g of aluminum acetate was dissolved in 20 L of water, dried for 30 minutes, and washed with water to complete dyeing.
본 실시예에 의해 염색이 완료된 실크천은 일반적인 치자염색에서는 나올수 없는 금색을 띤 밝은 유채색이 염색되었다.The silk cloth dyed by the present Example was dyed with a bright oily color with a golden color that can not come out from the general gardenia dye.
실시예 3Example 3
상기 실시예 1에서 염색된 천의 세탁견뢰도, 마찰견뢰도 및 일광견뢰도에 대하여 시험평가하여 다음 표 1의 결과를 얻었다.The test fastness of the wash fastness, friction fastness and daylight fastness of the fabric dyed in Example 1 to obtain the results of Table 1.
비교예 1Comparative Example 1
상기 실시예 1 및 실시예 2에서 염색된 천과 치자염색만으로 염색된 천을 비교해 보았다.The cloth dyed in Example 1 and Example 2 and the cloth dyed only with gardenia staining was compared.
본 발명에 의해 색토를 하염하고 그 위에 식물염색한 천은 치자염색만을 한 천염섬유들과는 달리 형광빛이 가시적으로 보아 현격한 차이를 나타냈고, 본 발명의 식물염색한 천은 부드럽고 자연스러운 느낌을 확연히 보여주고 있으며 실루엣 효과와 카멜레온 현상이 나타나고 있다.The fabric dyeing the saline soil and plant-dyed on the present invention showed a noticeable difference from the visible light of fluorescent dyes, unlike the cloth dyeing fabrics which had only gardenia dyeing, and the plant-dyed cloth of the present invention showed a soft and natural feeling clearly. The silhouette effect and chameleon phenomenon are appearing.
본 발명의 방법에 의거 염색된 천은 염착된 흙의 입자와 식물염료의 입자의 크기가 다르고 광물성과 식물성의 분자구조가 달라 빛의 굴절률이 다른 이유에서 오는 실루엣 효과를 나타내었다. 즉, 상기 실시예 1에서 염색된 마천의 경우, 주황토나 주홍토로 하염하고 그 위에 치자염색을 하여 천을 펼칠 경우 밝은 황색으로 보이나, 천을 겹치거나 주름을 잡을 경우 주름 부분에 주황이나 주홍색이 나타났다. 또한 주황토로 염색된 천에 배롱나무 잎으로 올리브 그린색을 염색할 경우 빛의 강도에 따라 올리브 그린, 금색, 주황색 등이 차례로 나타나는 빛의 카멜레온 현상도 나타났다.The cloth dyed according to the method of the present invention exhibited a silhouette effect due to the difference in the refractive index of light because of the different sizes of the particles of dyeing soil and the particles of plant dyes and the mineral and vegetable molecular structure. That is, in the case of the cloth that was dyed in Example 1, yellowish yellow or scarlet soil was stained and then stained with gardenia dye on the cloth to appear bright yellow, but when overlapping or creased, orange or scarlet color appeared in the wrinkles. In addition, when dyeing olive green color with Lagerstroemia leaves on orange-dyed cloth, the chameleon phenomenon of light appeared olive green, gold, orange, etc. according to light intensity.
마찬가지로 실시예 2의 경우 염색된 실크천을 접거나 주름을 잡으면 그 접힌 자리에 오렌지색이 나타나는 실루엣 현상을 나타내었으며, 빛의 강도에 따라 녹미를 띤 유채색, 토기색을 띤 유채식, 금색을 띤 유채색으로 변하는 카멜레온 현상을 나타내었다.Similarly, in Example 2, when the folded silk cloth was folded or creased, a silhouette phenomenon in which the orange color appeared at the folded position was shown. The color of the oil was changed to rusted rapeseed color, earthen-colored rapeseed color, and gold-colored rapeseed color. Chameleon phenomenon is shown.
이상에서는 본 발명을 특정한 바람직한 실시예를 예를 들어 제시하고 설명하였으나, 본 발명은 상기한 예에 한정되지 아니하며 본 발명의 기술사상에 벗어나지 않는 범위내에서 당해 발명이 속하는 기술분야에서 통상의 지식을 가진자에 의해 다양한 변경과 수정이 가능할 것이다.In the above, the present invention has been presented and described with reference to specific preferred embodiments, but the present invention is not limited to the above-described examples and the general knowledge in the art to which the present invention pertains is not limited to the technical spirit of the present invention. Various changes and modifications may be made by the possessor.
본 발명은 상술한 바와 같이, 자연계에 존재하는 다양한 색토를 이용하여 하염하고 그 하염된 천 위에 식물염색을 병행함으로써 기존의 흙염색 또는 식물염색을 단독으로 사용하는 방법에 비하여 다음과 같은 특징을 보유하게 된다.As described above, the present invention possesses the following characteristics as compared to the conventional soil dyeing or plant dyeing alone by using a variety of color soils present in the natural salting down and plant dyeing on the fabric. Done.
첫째, 다양한 색상과 색감을 얻을 수 있다.First, various colors and colors can be obtained.
둘째, 식물염색시 나타나는 강한 형광빛과 색의 가벼움을 해결할 수 있다.Second, it can solve the strong fluorescence and lightness of color that appear during plant dyeing.
섯째, 깊이 있고 자연스러운 색감을 창출할 수 있다.Fifth, it can create a deep and natural color.
넷째, 실루엣 효과와 빛의 카멜레온 현상을 나타내어 색감이 고급스럽다.Fourth, the color effect is luxurious due to the silhouette effect and the chameleon phenomenon of light.
다섯째, 천연염색에서 나타나는 염색견뢰도의 취약성을 해결할 수 있다.Fifth, it is possible to solve the weakness of dye fastness in natural dyeing.
따라서, 본 발명의 염색방법에 의한 염색물은 천연염색 기술의 완성도를 더욱 향상시키는 결과를 가져다 줌으로써 화학염료에 견줄 수 있는 대중성을 보유함에 따라 세계시장에서의 경제적 파급효과를 기대할 수 있다.Therefore, the dyeing by the dyeing method of the present invention can be expected to have an economic ripple effect in the world market by having a popularity that can be comparable to chemical dyes by bringing the result of further improving the completeness of natural dyeing technology.
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