KR20010064273A - A process of preparing for the processed polyester yarn, and its fabric - Google Patents

A process of preparing for the processed polyester yarn, and its fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
KR20010064273A
KR20010064273A KR1019990062426A KR19990062426A KR20010064273A KR 20010064273 A KR20010064273 A KR 20010064273A KR 1019990062426 A KR1019990062426 A KR 1019990062426A KR 19990062426 A KR19990062426 A KR 19990062426A KR 20010064273 A KR20010064273 A KR 20010064273A
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South Korea
Prior art keywords
elongation
filament
yarn
polyester
fabric
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KR1019990062426A
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Korean (ko)
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KR100602427B1 (en
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조남성
이태호
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구광시
주식회사 코오롱
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D02G3/045Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials all components being made from artificial or synthetic material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/16Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/18Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by combining fibres, filaments, or yarns, having different shrinkage characteristics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/28Doubled, plied, or cabled threads

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Fluid Mechanics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

PURPOSE: A manufacturing method of a polyester conjugated textured yarn and a textile thereof are provided, which have excellent nobleness and excellent touch owing to the sheath-core type structure covering low elongation polyester multi-filament with high elongation polyester multi-filament, and excellent elastic property, no deterioration of physical property on doing alkali weight loss finishing and low cost when the textile is manufactured. CONSTITUTION: The conjugated yarn is obtained by a process containing the steps of: blending the high elongation polyester multi-filament and the low elongation polyester multi-filament having over 80% of difference in breaking elongation; twisting feebly in 3,000-15,000 of twisting coefficient(K), followed by drawing-setting; and then twisting in 20,000-50,000 of twisting coefficient(K) in the same direction as the twisting direction. Blending ratio of the high elongation polyester multi-filament and the low elongation polyester multi-filament is 0.5-2.5. The high elongation polyester multi-filament has 100-250% of breaking elongation. The low elongation polyester multi-filament has 20-40% of breaking elongation. The textile thereof is characterized by over 90% of elastic recovery percentage, at least 70% of elastic recovery percentage after 30seconds and at least 85% of elastic recovery percentage after 1hour.

Description

폴리에스테르 복합가공사의 제조방법 및 그의 직물 {A process of preparing for the processed polyester yarn, and its fabric}A process of preparing for the processed polyester yarn, and its fabric}

본 발명은 신축성 및 촉감이 우수한 폴리에스테르 복합가공사의 제조방법 및 그의 직물에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester composite workpiece having excellent elasticity and feel and a fabric thereof.

합성섬유 직물에 신축성을 부여하는 대표적인 종래기술로서는 나일론사를 폴리우레탄 탄성사에 커버링한 원사로 직물을 제조하거나, 합성섬유 원사와 폴리우레탄 탄성사를 제직시 함께 사용하여(교직하여) 직물을 제조하는 방법이 있다. 상기 방법으로 제조된 직물은 신축성은 향상되나 소프트한 터치와 적절한 드레이프성이 부족한 문제가 있다.Representative conventional techniques for imparting elasticity to a synthetic fiber fabric include a method of making a fabric from yarns covered with nylon elastic yarns or by using (weaving) a synthetic fiber yarn and a polyurethane elastic yarn together when weaving. There is this. Fabrics produced by the above method have a problem that the elasticity is improved but there is a lack of soft touch and adequate drape.

한편 폴리에스테르 원사로 직물을 제직한 후 알카리감량 처리하면 소프트한 터치와 적절한 드레이프성은 발현할 수 있으나 신축성이 부족한 문제가 있다.On the other hand, after weaving the fabric with a polyester yarn, the alkali loss treatment may give a soft touch and proper drape, but there is a problem of insufficient elasticity.

직물에 우수한 신축성과 촉감을 동시에 부여하기 위한 종래기술로서 폴리에스테르 가연사와 폴리우레탄 탄성사를 제직시 함께 사용하여 직물을 제조하는 방법이 알려져 있으나, 폴리우레탄 탄성사 사용으로 제조원가가 비싸고 알카리 감량시 폴리우레탄 탄성사가 취약하게 되어 직물의 기계적 물성이 저하되는 문제가 있다.As a conventional technique for imparting excellent elasticity and touch to the fabric, a method of manufacturing a fabric using polyester twisted yarn and polyurethane elastic yarn together when weaving is known. Is vulnerable to mechanical problems of the fabric is lowered.

한편 일본특개평 10-37029호에서는 재생섬유인 리오셀섬유를 폴리에스테르 원사와 같이 사용하여 신축성 폴리에스테르 직물을 제조하는 방법을 제안하고 있으나, 제조원가가 비싼 문제가 있다.On the other hand, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-37029 proposes a method of manufacturing a stretch polyester fabric using lyocell fiber, which is a recycled fiber, with a polyester yarn, but there is a problem of high manufacturing cost.

본 발명은 이상에서 설명한 종래기술의 문제점들을 해결하므로서 촉감 및 신축성이 우수하고, 알카리 감량시 인열강도 등의 기계적 물성저하가 없고, 제조원가가 저렴한 폴리에스테르 복합가공사의 제조방법과 그의 직물을 제공하고자 한다.The present invention solves the problems of the prior art described above, excellent in touch and elasticity, there is no mechanical properties such as tear strength when reducing alkali, and low cost of manufacturing polyester composite fabrication and its fabric to provide do.

도 1은 폴리에스테르 복합가공사의 하중-신도 곡선을 나타낸다.1 shows a load-elongation curve of a polyester composite.

본 발명은 촉감 및 신축성이 우수한 폴리에스테르 복합가공사의 제조방법 및 그의 직물에 관한 것이다. 더욱 구체적으로 본 발명은 절단신도 차이가 80% 이상인 2종 이상의 고신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트와 저신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트를 혼섬하고, 3,000~15,000의 연계수(K)로 약연사 후 연지세트하고, 연사방향과 동방향으로 20,000~50,000의 연계수(K)로 가연함을 특징으로 하는 폴리에스테르 복합가공사의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester composite workpiece having excellent touch and elasticity and a fabric thereof. More specifically, the present invention blends two or more high-strength polyester multifilaments and low-strength polyester multifilaments having a difference in cutting elongation of 80% or more, and sets them after soft-weaving with a linkage number (K) of 3,000 to 15,000. The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester composite fabrication, characterized by the combustible with the number of linkages (K) of 20,000 to 50,000 in the direction of the yarn.

또한 본 발명은 경사 및/또는 위사가 절단신도 차이가 80% 이상인 2종 이상의 고신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트와 저신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트로 구성되는 폴리에스테르 복합가공사이고, 신장탄성율이 90% 이상이고, 30초후 신장회복율이 70% 이상이고, 1시간 후의 신장회복율이 85% 이상인 폴리에스테르 직물에 관한 것이다.In addition, the present invention is a polyester composite fabrication composed of two or more high-strength polyester multifilament and a low-strength polyester multifilament having a warp and / or weft difference of more than 80% difference in elongation, elongation modulus of 90% or more, It relates to a polyester fabric having an elongation recovery of 70% or more after 30 seconds and an elongation recovery of 85% or more after 1 hour.

이하 본 발명을 상세하게 설명한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

먼저, 본 발명은 절단신도 차이가 80% 이상인 고신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트와 저신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트를 공기교락장치에서 혼섬하여 혼섬사를 제조한다. 이때 고신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트사의 신도는 100~250%인 것이 바람직 하고, 저신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트사의 신도는 20~40%인 것이 바람직 하다. 이들의 혼섬비율은 직물상의 신축성과 촉감을 고려하여 조정하는 것이 바람직 하다. 즉 고신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트사 / 저신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트사의 혼섬비율은 0.5~2.5인 것이 바람직 하다. 최종 가공지상에서 적용된 경사 혹은 위사의 절단강도의 범위는 1~2.5g/d인 것이 바람직 하다. 상기 혼섬비율이 2.5를 초과하게 되면 최종 가공지상에서 촉감은 우수하지만, 적용 가공사의 강도저하가 발생하여 직물의 인열강도가 저하될 수 있고, 직물의 반발성이 적어 의류적용시 태가 불량해 질수 있다. 반대로 상기 혼섬비율이 0.5 미만의 경우 최종 가공지의 인열강도는 우수하지만 심사에 비해 효과사의 부출이 약하여 촉감이 불량해지는 문제점이 발생될 수 있다.First, the present invention mixes the high elongation polyester multifilament and the low elongation polyester multifilament having a difference in cutting elongation of 80% or more in an air entanglement device to prepare a mixed fiber. At this time, the elongation of the high elongation polyester multifilament yarn is preferably 100 to 250%, and the elongation of the low elongation polyester multifilament yarn is preferably 20 to 40%. It is preferable to adjust these blend sum ratios in consideration of the elasticity and touch on a fabric. That is, it is preferable that the mixing ratio of high elongation polyester multifilament yarn / low elongation polyester multifilament yarn is 0.5-2.5. The cutting strength of the warp or weft yarn applied on the final processed paper is preferably in the range of 1 to 2.5 g / d. When the blending ratio exceeds 2.5, the touch is excellent on the final processed paper, but the strength of the applied processed yarn may be reduced, and the tear strength of the fabric may be lowered. have. On the contrary, when the blending ratio is less than 0.5, the tear strength of the final processed paper may be excellent, but the appearance of the effect yarn is weak compared to the screening, resulting in a poor touch.

본 발명에서 사용하는 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트사의 총 데니어는 의류용인경우 50~400정도, 바람직하게는 100~300데니어가 적당하다. 그러나 본 발명은 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트의 총데니어, 단사섬도 및 단면형태를 특별히 한정하는 것은 아니다. 구성단사의 데니어는 효과사로 작용하는 고신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트의 경우 1~3데니어, 심사로 작용하는 저신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트의 경우 3~10 데니어 정도가 바람직 하다.The total denier of the polyester multifilament yarn used in the present invention is about 50 to 400, preferably 100 to 300 denier for the garment. However, the present invention does not particularly limit the total denier, single yarn fineness and cross-sectional shape of the polyester multifilament. The denier of the component single yarn is preferably 1 to 3 deniers for the high-strength polyester multifilament acting as the effect yarn, and 3 to 10 deniers for the low-strength polyester multifilament acting as the screening.

다음으로 상기 혼섬사를 3,000~15,000의 연계수(K)로 약연사후 연지세트 한다. 연계수(K)는 아래식(I)에 의해 계산된다.Next, the horn sum yarn is set after the soft twisting with the number of linkages (K) of 3,000 to 15,000. The linkage number K is calculated by the following formula (I).

연계수(K) = T ×(I)Linkage (K) = T × (I)

상기 식에서, T는 원사 1개에 부과되는 꼬임수 이고, D는 원사의 총섬도(데니어) 이다.Where T is the number of twists imposed on one yarn and D is the total fineness (denier) of the yarn.

약연사시 연계수(K)를 4,500~13,000으로 하면 더욱 바람직 하다. 약연사시 연계수(K)가 3,000 미만인 경우에는 직물의 신장회복 특성이 불량해 지고, 15,000을 초과하는 경우에는 사가공시에 과도한 꼬임이 부여되어 사절 혹은 모우 등이 다량으로 발생되어 질수 있으며, 이로 인해 사가공 생산성 및 각종 공정통과성이 불량해 진다. 또한 과도한 꼬임의 불균일한 분포로 인하여 원단표면에 불균일한 염반을 발생시킬 수 있다.It is more preferable to set the linkage number (K) at 4,500 to 13,000 at low continuous shooting. If the number of joints (K) is less than 3,000 during weak spinning, the stretch recovery characteristics of the fabric become poor, and if it exceeds 15,000, excessive twisting may be given during processing, resulting in a large amount of trimming or moor. This results in poor machining productivity and various process permeability. In addition, due to uneven distribution of excessive twisting, uneven salt spots may be generated on the fabric surface.

계속해서 선연사된 원사를 가연기로 연사방향과 동방향으로 가연하여 본 발명의 폴리에스테르 복합가공사를 제조한다. 이때 가연기로는 핀타입, 세라믹디스크타입, 벨트타입 모두 가능하다. 가연조건은 상기 선연사공정 중의 연계수(K)에 따라 다소 변화가 있을 수는 있지만, 핀타입 가연기를 예를 들어 볼때가공속도 50~150m/분, 연계수(K) 20,000~50,000, 히터온도 150~220℃, 장력 0.05~0.5g/d 정도의 조건으로 가공하는 것이 바람직 하다. 또한 가연공정에서는 상기 선연사 공정에서 얻어진 약연사는 연사 토르크가 있기 때문에 연지세트를 실시하거나, 열판에서 열세트를 실시하는 것이 바람직 하다.Subsequently, the pre-twisted yarn is combusted in the same direction as the twist direction with the combustor to manufacture the polyester composite processing of the present invention. At this time, as a combustor, pin type, ceramic disc type, and belt type can be used. Combustion conditions may vary somewhat depending on the number of linkages (K) during the pre-twisting process, but when using a pin type combustor, for example, the processing speed 50 ~ 150m / min, linkage (K) 20,000 ~ 50,000, heater temperature It is preferable to process on the conditions of 150-220 degreeC and the tension about 0.05-0.5g / d. In the false twisting step, the weak twisted yarn obtained in the pre-twisting step has a twisting torque, so it is preferable to perform the set of the rolled paper or to perform the heat set on the hot plate.

상기 방법으로 제조된 폴리에스테르 복합가공사는 고신도의 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트가 저신도의 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트를 감싸고 있는 2층 구조의 심초형 구조를 갖고 있어서, 직물제조시 우수한 숭고감, 촉감 및 신축성을 발현하게 된다.The polyester composite fabricated by the above method has a two-layered deep sheath structure in which a high-strength polyester multifilament surrounds a low-strength polyester multifilament, so that the fabric has excellent sublimation, feel, and elasticity. Expression.

한편, 본 발명은 상기 방법으로 제조된 폴리에스테르 복합가공사를 경사 및/또는 위사로 사용하여, 다시말해 경사 및 위사 모두에 사용하거나, 경사 또는 위사중 어느 하나에만 사용하거나, 경사 및 위사에 일반 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트와 함께 사용하여 직물을 제조함을 특징으로 한다.On the other hand, the present invention uses a polyester composite fabricated by the above method as a warp and / or weft yarn, that is to say used for both warp and weft yarn, used only in any of the warp or weft yarn, or general poly warp and weft yarn Characterized in that the fabric is used in combination with ester multifilament.

제직시 경사밀도 / 위사밀도 비는 1.2~3.0인 것이 좋다. 상기 밀도비가 1.2 미만일 경우에는 본 발명에서 의도하는 신축특성이 얻어지기 어려워 바람직하지 않다. 또한 밀도비가 3.0을 초과할 경우에는 경사밀도에 비해 위사밀도가 너무 작아 슬립(Silp) 등의 문제가 발생되어 바람직하지 못하다.When weaving, the warp density / weft density ratio should be 1.2 to 3.0. When the density ratio is less than 1.2, the stretching property intended by the present invention is difficult to be obtained, which is not preferable. In addition, when the density ratio exceeds 3.0, the weft density is too small compared to the inclined density, which is not preferable because problems such as slip (Silp) occur.

제직방법으로서는 통상의 직기를 이용하여, 예를들면 북직기, 워터제트룸, 에어제트룸, 레피어 등을 이용하여 원하는 조직의 직물을 제직할 수 있다. 조직은 능직(Twill), 주자직(Satin), 아문젠, 크레이프 등 어느것이라도 우수한 신축성을 발현한다.As a weaving method, it is possible to weave a fabric of a desired structure by using a conventional loom, for example, a weaving machine, a water jet room, an air jet room, a repier, or the like. Tissues, Twill, Satin, Amunzen, Crepe, etc. all exhibit excellent elasticity.

직물제직 후 촉감 및 드레이프성을 향상시키기 위해 알카리수용액 등으로 알카리 감량처리 한다. 본 발명의 직물은 100% 폴리에스테르 원사로 구성되기 때문에 상기 알카리 감량으로 인한 원사의 취화 현상이 없어서 보다 양호한 신축성과 촉감을 발현하게 된다.After weaving the fabric, alkali treatment is carried out with alkali solution to improve the feel and drape. Since the fabric of the present invention is composed of 100% polyester yarn, there is no embrittlement phenomenon of the yarn due to the alkali weight loss, which results in better elasticity and feel.

염색은 통상의 폴리에스테르 직물과 같이 100~130℃의 고온고압 염색조건에서 분산염료 등으로 실시할 수 있다. 정련후 예비세트 및 염색 후 최종세트시 과도한 장력을 부여하지 않는 것이 제품의 신축성 향상을 위해 바람직 하다.Dyeing may be carried out with a disperse dye or the like under a high temperature and high pressure dyeing conditions of 100 ~ 130 ℃ like conventional polyester fabrics. It is desirable to improve the elasticity of the product, not to impart excessive tension during pre-refining and final set after dyeing.

본 발명의 직물은 촉감 및 신축성이 우수하다. 구체적으로 신장탄성율이 90% 이상이고, 30초후 신장회복율이 70% 이상이고, 1시간 후의 신장회복율이 85% 이상 이다.The fabric of the present invention is excellent in touch and elasticity. Specifically, the elastic modulus of elasticity is 90% or more, the elongation recovery after 30 seconds is 70% or more, and the elongation recovery after 1 hour is 85% or more.

본 발명에 있어서 신장탄성율, 신장회복율 및 숭고도는 다음과 같은 방법으로 측정한다.In the present invention, the elongation modulus, elongation recovery and sublime are measured by the following method.

·신장탄성율Elongation Modulus

JIS L 1096 방법으로 래블스트립법에 의한 신장탄성율을 측정한다.The elongation modulus by the ravel strip method is measured by JIS L 1096 method.

① 만능인장 시험기를 사용하여, 초하중(0.2g/d) 부여상태의 시료장 200mm를 인장속도 200mm/분으로 시료장의 5%까지 인장한다.① Using a universal tensile tester, 200mm of specimen length under ultra load (0.2g / d) is stretched to 5% of specimen length at a tensile speed of 200mm / min.

② 5% 인장후 하중부여 상태로 1분간 방치한다.② Leave for 1 minute under load condition after 5% tension.

③ 동일한 속도비로 하중을 제거후 3분간 방치한다.③ Remove the load at the same speed ratio and leave for 3 minutes.

④ 다시 ①항과 동일한 속도비로 인장한다.④ Tighten again at the same speed ratio as in ①.

⑤ 도 1의 하중-신도 곡선으로 부터 잔류신도를 측정한다.⑤ Measure the residual elongation from the load-elongation curve in FIG.

⑥ 아래식으로 신장탄성율(%)을 계산한다.⑥ Calculate elongation modulus (%) with the following formula.

⑦ 5회 평균치를 측정한 값으로 한다.⑦ Measure the average value of 5 times.

신장탄성율(%) =× 100Elongation at modulus (%) = × 100

여기서 L은 5% 신장시의 시료장, L1은 잔류 신장 이다.Where L is the sample length at 5% elongation and L1 is the residual elongation.

·신장회복율Recovery rate

JIS L 1096 방법으로 그랩법에 의한 신장회복율을 측정한다.Elongation recovery rate by the grabbing method is measured by JIS L 1096 method.

① 만능인장 시험기를 사용하여, 상부 그램프에 시편을 고정하고 초하중을 부여하여 시편을 하부 크램프에 고정한다.① Using the universal tensile tester, fix the specimen to the upper gram and fix the specimen to the lower clamp by applying super load.

② 200mm의 간격으로 기준선을 표시한다.② Mark the baseline at intervals of 200 mm.

③ 1.5kgf의 하중을 부여하여 1시간을 방치한 후, 기준선의 간격을 측정한다.③ Leave 1.5 hours at a load of 1.5kgf and measure the distance between the baselines.

④ 하중을 제거하고 30초와 1시간을 방치한 후, 기준선의 간격을 측정한다.④ Remove the load and leave for 30 seconds and 1 hour, and measure the distance between the baselines.

⑤ 아래식으로 신장회복율을 산출한다.⑤ Elongation recovery rate is calculated by the following equation.

⑥ 5회 평균치를 측정값으로 한다.⑥ Set the average value of 5 times as the measured value.

신장회복율(%) =× 100Elongation recovery (%) = × 100

여기서 L0는 초하중 부여했을때 시편의 길이(200mm), L1은 1.5kgf 하중부여후 1시간 방치후의 기준선의 길이, L2는 하중제거후 30초와 1시간 후의 기준선의 길이이다.Where L0 is the length of the specimen (200mm) at the time of ultra loading, L1 is the length of the baseline after 1 hour of standing after 1.5kgf loading, and L2 is the length of the baseline 30 seconds and 1 hour after unloading.

·숭고도(㎠/g)Sublime degree (㎠ / g)

JIS L 1018 방법으로 숭고도를 측정한다.The sublime degree is measured by JIS L 1018 method.

숭고도 =× 100Sublime = × 100

이하 실시예 및 비교실시예를 통하여 본 발명을 더욱 구체적으로 살펴본다. 그러나 본 발명이 아래 실시예에만 한정되는 것은 아니다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. However, the present invention is not limited only to the following examples.

실시예 1Example 1

절단신도가 140%인 고배향 미연신 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트 120데니어 72필라멘트와 절단신도가 33%인 일반 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트 120데니어 24필라멘트사를 공기교락법에 의하여 혼섬하여 240데니어의 가공사를 제조한다. 제조된 가공사를 Z연 방향으로 510T/M[연계수(K) = 7900]으로 약연을 부여하고, 얻어진 약연사를 연지세트를 실시한다. 연지된 약연사를 Z연 방향으로 2,800T/M[연계수(K) = 43,000)을 부여하여 후가연을 실시하여 선연사 후가연사를 제조한다. 제조된 선연사 후가연사를 경위사 모두에 적용하여 경사본수 96본/인치, 위사본수 65본/인치의 밀도와 변화 트윌조직으로 제직한다. 제조된 직물을 정련, 예비세트, 알카리감량, 염색, 화이날세트의 통상의 염가공방법에 의해 염가공을 실시한다. 최종 가공지의 경사본수는 130본/인치, 위사본수 85본/인치 이었으며, 감량율은 25% 정도로 시행하였다. 최종 가공지는 복합가연사 고유의부드러운 촉감이 발현되었으며, 래블스트립법에 의한 신장탄성율 100%, 30초후의 신장회복율 78%, 1시간 후의 신장회복율 90.2% 이었다. 숭고도는 3.18㎠/g으로 우수한 벌키성을 보였다. 최종 가공지 상에서의 적용된 경사 혹은 위사의 절단강도는 1.31g/d 이었다.A 120 denier processed yarn is prepared by interweaving 120 denier 72 filament of highly oriented unstretched polyester multifilament 120 filament with 140% cutting elongation and 120 filament yarn of general polyester multifilament with 33% cutting elongation by air entanglement. . The produced twisted yarn is given a weak lead at 510T / M (coefficient of K (= 7900)) in the Z-axis direction, and the obtained weak twisted yarn is subjected to a paper-set. The post-twisted twisted yarn is subjected to post-twisting by giving 2,800T / M (link coefficient (K) = 43,000) in the Z-direction. The pre-twisted twisted twisted yarn is applied to all the weft yarns and weaved into a density and change twill structure of 96 warp yarns / inch and 65 weft yarns / inch. The fabric produced is subjected to salt processing by conventional salt processing methods such as refining, preliminary set, alkali loss, dyeing and final set. The number of slopes of the final processed paper was 130 / inch, and the number of wefts was 85 / inch, and the reduction rate was about 25%. The final processed paper exhibited the soft touch inherent to the composite twisted yarn, and the elastic modulus of elasticity was 100% by the ravel strip method, 78% elongation recovery after 30 seconds, and 90.2% elongation recovery after 1 hour. The sublime was 3.18cm 2 / g and showed excellent bulkiness. The cut strength of the warp or weft applied on the final paper was 1.31 g / d.

실시예 2Example 2

절단신도가 140%인 고배향 미연신 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트 120데니어 72필라멘트와 절단신도가 33%인 일반 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트 120데니어 24필라멘트사를 공기교락법에 의하여 혼섬하여 240데니어의 가공사를 제조한다. 제조된 가공사를 Z연 방향으로 700T/M[연계수(K) = 10,844]으로 약연을 부여하고, 얻어진 약연사를 연지세트를 실시한다. 연지된 약연사를 Z연 방향으로 2,800T/M[연계수(K) = 43,000)을 부여하여 후가연을 실시하여 선연사 후가연사를 제조한다. 제조된 선연사 후가연사를 경위사 모두에 적용하여 경사본수 74본/인치, 위사본수 50본/인치의 밀도와 변화 크레이프조직으로 제직한다. 제조된 직물을 정련, 예비세트, 알카리감량, 염색, 화이날세트의 통상의 염가공방법에 의해 염가공을 실시한다. 최종 가공지의 경사본수는 98본/인치, 위사본수 72본/인치 이었으며, 감량율은 26% 정도로 시행하였다. 최종 가공지는 복합가연사 고유의 부드러운 촉감이 발현되었으며, 래블스트립법에 의한 신장탄성율 100%, 30초후의 신장회복율 81%, 1시간 후의 신장회복율 91.5%가 각각 얻어졌다. 숭고도는 3.32㎠/g으로 우수한 벌키성을 보였다. 최종 가공지 상에서의 적용된 경사 혹은 위사의 절단강도는 1.60g/d 이었다.A 120 denier processed yarn is prepared by interweaving 120 denier 72 filament of highly oriented unstretched polyester multifilament 120 filament with 140% cutting elongation and 120 filament yarn of general polyester multifilament with 33% cutting elongation by air entanglement. . The fabricated yarn is imparted with weak lead at 700T / M (link coefficient (K) = 10,844] in the Z-axis direction, and the resulting weak twisted yarn is subjected to a paper-set. The post-twisted twisted yarn is subjected to post-twisting by giving 2,800T / M (link coefficient (K) = 43,000) in the Z-direction. The pre-twisted twisted twisted yarn is applied to all the weft yarns and weaved into a density and change crepe of 74 warp yarns / inch and 50 weft yarns / inch. The fabric produced is subjected to salt processing by conventional salt processing methods such as refining, preliminary set, alkali loss, dyeing and final set. The number of slopes of the final processed paper was 98 / inch, and the number of weft yarns was 72 / inch, and the reduction rate was about 26%. The final processed paper exhibited a soft touch inherent to the composite twisted yarn, and 100% elongation modulus by the Ravel Strip method, 81% elongation recovery after 30 seconds, and 91.5% elongation recovery after 1 hour were obtained, respectively. The sublime was 3.32 cm 2 / g and showed excellent bulkiness. The cut strength of the warp or weft applied on the final paper was 1.60 g / d.

비교실시예 1Comparative Example 1

절단신도가 35%인 일반 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트 200데니어 72필라멘트사를 이용하여 선연사 Z 710T/M[연계수(K)=10,040], 후가연 Z 2850T/M[연계수(K)=40,300]의 조건으로 선연사 후가연 가공을 실시하였다. 얻어진 선연사 후가연사를 경위사 모두에 적용하여 경사본수 76본/인치, 위사본수 52본/인치의 밀도와 변화 크레이프조직으로 제직하고 실시예 1과 동일한 방법으로 염가공을 실시하여 최종 가공지를 제조하였다(감량율 25%). 최종 가공지의 경사본수는 105본/인치, 위사본수 76본/인치 이었다. 최종가공지는 신축성은 우수하였으나, 촉감이 불량한 단점이 발생하였다. 숭고도는 1.8㎠/g이었다. 최종 가공지 상에서의 적용된 경위사의 절단강도는 2.63g/d 이었다.Pre-twisted yarn Z 710T / M [Kn = 10,040], Post-Combusted Z 2850T / M [Kn = Kn = 40,300] using ordinary polyester multifilament 200denier 72filament yarn with 35% elongation at break Pre-twisted post-twisting was performed under the condition of. The obtained pre-twisted twisted yarn was applied to all the light and weft yarns, and weaved with a density crepe structure of 76 yarns / inch of warp yarn and 52 yarns / inch of weft yarn and subjected to salt processing in the same manner as in Example 1. Paper was prepared (reduction rate 25%). The number of slopes of the final processed paper was 105 / inch and 76 wefts / inch. The final processing paper had excellent elasticity, but had a disadvantage of poor touch. Sublimation was 1.8 cm 2 / g. The breaking strength of the applied warp yarn on the final processed paper was 2.63 g / d.

비교실시예 2Comparative Example 2

절단신도가 27%인 일반 폴리에스테르 고신축 가연사 300데니어 96필라멘트사를 직물의 위사로 적용하고, 경사에 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트 240데니어 96필라멘트를 적용하여 변화크레이프조직으로 제직하였다. 경사본수는 100본/인치, 위사본수 50본/인치 이었으며, 실시예 1과 동일한 방법으로 염가공을 실시하여 최종 가공지를 제조하였다. 최종 가공지의 경사본수는 140본/인치, 위사본수 62본/인치 였으며, 감량율은 24% 이었다. 최종가공지의 위방향 신축탄성율은85%, 30초후의 신장회복율은 65.1%, 1시간 후의 신장회복율은 71.3%로 신축탄성 및 회복율이 불량하였다. 숭고도는 2.8㎠/g으로 경사의 이수축효과로 인해 비교적 양호하였다. 최종 가공지 상에서의 적용된 경위사의 절단강도는 2.8g/d 이었다.The general polyester high elasticity twisted yarn 300 denier 96 filament yarn with 27% elongation at break was applied as the weft of the fabric, and the polyester multifilament 240 denier 96 filament was applied to the warp yarn to weave the change crepe structure. The number of warp yarns was 100 / inch and the number of weft yarns was 50 / inch, and the final processing paper was prepared by performing salt processing in the same manner as in Example 1. The number of slopes of the final processed paper was 140 / inch, the weft yarn was 62 / inch, and the reduction rate was 24%. The upward elastic modulus of the finished paper was 85%, the elongation recovery after 30 seconds was 65.1%, and the recovery rate after 1 hour was 71.3%. The sublime level was 2.8cm2 / g, which was relatively good due to the biaxial shrinkage effect. The cut strength of the applied warp yarn on the final processed paper was 2.8 g / d.

본 발명의 폴리에스테르 복합가공사는 고신도의 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트가 저신도의 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트를 감싸고 있는 2층 구조의 심초형 구조를 갖고 있어서 숭고감 및 촉감이 매우 우수하다. 아울러 본 발명의 폴리에스테르 복합가공사는 원단제조시 신축성이 우수하며, 알카리감량 가공시 인열강도 등의 물성저하가 없고 제조원가가 저렴하다.The polyester composite processing of the present invention has a two-layered deep sheath structure in which a high-strength polyester multifilament encloses a low-strength polyester multifilament, and thus has excellent sublime feeling and feel. In addition, the polyester composite processing of the present invention is excellent in elasticity when manufacturing the fabric, there is no reduction in physical properties such as tear strength during alkali weight loss processing, and the manufacturing cost is low.

Claims (5)

절단신도 차이가 80% 이상인 2종 이상의 고신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트와 저신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트를 혼섬하고, 3,000~15,000의 연계수(K)로 약연사 후 연지세트하고, 연사방향과 동방향으로 20,000~50,000의 연계수(K)로 가연함을 특징으로 하는 폴리에스테르 복합가공사의 제조방법.Mix two or more high-strength polyester multifilaments and low-strength polyester multifilaments with a difference in cutting effi- ciency of 80% or more, and set them after weak yarns with a linkage number (K) of 3,000 to 15,000. A method for producing a polyester composite fabrication, characterized by flammability with a linkage of 20,000 to 50,000. 1항에 있어서, 고신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트 / 저신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트의 혼섬비율이 0.5~2.5인 것을 특징으로 하는 폴리에스테르 복합가공사의 제조방법.The method according to claim 1, wherein the blending ratio of the high elongation polyester multifilament / low elongation polyester multifilament is 0.5 to 2.5. 1항에 있어서, 고신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트의 절단신도가 100~250%이고 저신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트의 절단신도가 20~40%인 것을 특징으로하는 폴리에스테르 복합가공사의 제조방법.The method according to claim 1, wherein the cutting elongation of the high elongation polyester multifilament is 100 to 250% and the cutting elongation of the low elongation polyester multifilament is 20 to 40%. 경사 및/또는 위사가 절단신도 차이가 80% 이상인 2종 이상의 고신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트와 저신도 폴리에스테르 멀티필라멘트로 구성되는 폴리에스테르 복합가공사이고, 신장탄성율이 90% 이상이고, 30초후 신장회복율이 70% 이상이고, 1시간 후의 신장회복율이 85% 이상인 폴리에스테르 직물.Polyester composite fabrication consisting of two or more high-strength polyester multifilaments and low-strength polyester multifilaments with a warp and / or weft difference of more than 80% in elongation at break, having an elongation at least 90%, and elongation recovery after 30 seconds More than 70% and 85% elongation after 1 hour. 4항에 있어서, 경사밀도(본/인치) / 위사밀도(본/인치) 비가 1.2~3.0인 폴리에스테르 직물.The polyester fabric of claim 4 wherein the warp density (bone / inch) / weft density (bone / inch) ratio is between 1.2 and 3.0.
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KR100453180B1 (en) * 2002-10-31 2004-10-15 도레이새한 주식회사 Manufacturing method of polyester false twist yarn
KR100594882B1 (en) * 2004-06-01 2006-06-30 권오숙 The manufacturing process of woven fabrics
DE102015009207A1 (en) 2014-07-16 2016-01-21 Mando Corporation BODY VALVE ASSEMBLY FOR VIBRATION DAMPER
KR20160094748A (en) 2015-02-02 2016-08-10 주식회사 만도 Body valve assembly for shock absorber
KR20160094749A (en) 2015-02-02 2016-08-10 주식회사 만도 Body valve assembly for shock absorber
KR102099141B1 (en) * 2019-11-25 2020-04-09 주식회사 비상텍스 Elastic band with excellent elongation used for brief or boxer, and men's brief or boxer including the same
KR102305776B1 (en) * 2021-04-26 2021-09-30 알앤디텍스타일(주) Method Of Producing Composite Yarn For Satin Fabrics Having Wave Pattern Effect And Stretch Property And Method Of Producing Satin Fabrics Using Thereby

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JP2791443B2 (en) * 1990-03-26 1998-08-27 東レ・デュポン株式会社 Method for producing polyester-coated elastic yarn
JPH0813273A (en) * 1994-06-21 1996-01-16 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd Conjugate crimped yarn
JPH10195732A (en) * 1996-12-27 1998-07-28 Toyobo Co Ltd Polyester stretch fabric and its production
JPH11335936A (en) * 1998-05-28 1999-12-07 Toray Textile Inc Composite false-twisted yarn and its production

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR100453180B1 (en) * 2002-10-31 2004-10-15 도레이새한 주식회사 Manufacturing method of polyester false twist yarn
KR100594882B1 (en) * 2004-06-01 2006-06-30 권오숙 The manufacturing process of woven fabrics
DE102015009207A1 (en) 2014-07-16 2016-01-21 Mando Corporation BODY VALVE ASSEMBLY FOR VIBRATION DAMPER
KR20160009458A (en) 2014-07-16 2016-01-26 주식회사 만도 Body valve assembly for shock absorber
KR20160094748A (en) 2015-02-02 2016-08-10 주식회사 만도 Body valve assembly for shock absorber
KR20160094749A (en) 2015-02-02 2016-08-10 주식회사 만도 Body valve assembly for shock absorber
KR102099141B1 (en) * 2019-11-25 2020-04-09 주식회사 비상텍스 Elastic band with excellent elongation used for brief or boxer, and men's brief or boxer including the same
KR102305776B1 (en) * 2021-04-26 2021-09-30 알앤디텍스타일(주) Method Of Producing Composite Yarn For Satin Fabrics Having Wave Pattern Effect And Stretch Property And Method Of Producing Satin Fabrics Using Thereby

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