KR102451544B1 - Process Of Producing Composite Yarn Having Excellent Color Depth And Drapability Property - Google Patents
Process Of Producing Composite Yarn Having Excellent Color Depth And Drapability Property Download PDFInfo
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- KR102451544B1 KR102451544B1 KR1020200156327A KR20200156327A KR102451544B1 KR 102451544 B1 KR102451544 B1 KR 102451544B1 KR 1020200156327 A KR1020200156327 A KR 1020200156327A KR 20200156327 A KR20200156327 A KR 20200156327A KR 102451544 B1 KR102451544 B1 KR 102451544B1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
- D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
- D01F8/14—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
- D02J1/00—Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
- D02J1/08—Interlacing constituent filaments without breakage thereof, e.g. by use of turbulent air streams
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
- D02J1/00—Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
- D02J1/22—Stretching or tensioning, shrinking or relaxing, e.g. by use of overfeed and underfeed apparatus, or preventing stretch
- D02J1/228—Stretching in two or more steps, with or without intermediate steps
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
- D02J13/00—Heating or cooling the yarn, thread, cord, rope, or the like, not specific to any one of the processes provided for in this subclass
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/14—Dyeability
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/16—Physical properties antistatic; conductive
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- Fluid Mechanics (AREA)
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- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Abstract
본 발명은 카치온가염성 폴리에스테르반연신필라멘트사의 특성을 이용하여 아세테이트와 유사한 물성을 가지는 심색성 및 드레이프성이 우수한 폴리에스터 복합가공사를 제공하는 것으로서, 본 발명에 의하면 카치온가염성 폴리에스테르반연신필라멘트사의 특성을 이용하여 아세테이트와 유사한 구김성, 광택, 대전방지성, 반발성, 촉감 및 심색성을 가지는 폴리에스터 복합가공사를 제공하여 원단으로 제작하는 경우에 원단의 촉감상에 바삭바삭한 Crispness와 우수한 드레이프성 및 이수축효과를 발현할 수 있다.The present invention is to provide a polyester composite fabric with excellent deep color and drape properties having properties similar to acetate by using the properties of the cationic dyed polyester semi-stretched filament yarn. In the case of manufacturing as a fabric by providing a polyester composite processing that has similar wrinkle, gloss, antistatic properties, resilience, touch and deep color properties to acetate using It is possible to express a diconstriction effect.
Description
본 발명은 심색성 및 드레이프성이 우수한 폴리에스테르 복합가공사의 제조방법에 관한 것으로서 카치온가염성 폴리에스테르반연신필라멘트사의 특성을 이용하여 아세테이트와 유사한 물성을 가지는 폴리에스터 복합가공사를 제공하는 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester composite processing yarn having excellent deep color and drape properties, and to provide a polyester composite processing yarn having properties similar to acetate by using the characteristics of a cationic dyeing polyester semi-stretched filament yarn.
Gucci, Prada 등으로 대표되는 유럽의 여러 고가 의류브랜드에서는 초고가의 가격 정책을 고수하고 있는데, 이러한 바탕에는 브랜드 value와 독창적인 디자인, 패턴 등의 다양한 요소가 존재하고 있다. 그 중에서도 쉽게 접할 수 없는 신 감성의 "차별화된 소재" 에 대한 요구는 날이 갈수록 커져가고 있는 추세이다. Many high-priced clothing brands in Europe, such as Gucci and Prada, adhere to the ultra-high price policy, and various elements such as brand value, original design, and patterns exist on this basis. Among them, the demand for "differentiated material" with a new sensibility that cannot be easily accessed is increasing day by day.
이렇듯 섬유산업에서 최근 화두가 되고 있는 것은 단연 "소재" 라고 할 수 있는데, 고가 의류 브랜드뿐만 아니라 SPA 브랜드들도 소재의 고급화에 눈을 돌리기 시작하였으며 그 대표적인 주자가 트리아세테이트이다.As such, it can be said that "material" has become a hot topic in the textile industry recently. Not only expensive clothing brands but also SPA brands have begun to turn their eyes to the luxury of materials, and the representative runner is triacetate.
Tri-acetate 소재는 열에 강하고 견에 가까운 광택과 촉감, 초기탄성율이 낮아 유연하고 우수한 드레이프성을 가지고 있다. 면이나 레이온보다 레질리언스가 우수하여 구김이 덜 생기고 디아세테이트보다 트리아세테이트의 레질리언스가 더욱 좋아 습도가 높아도 구김이 잘 생기지 않는 특성을 보여 이런 다양한 특성을 바탕으로 트리아세테이트는 "차별화, 고급화 touch"를 원하는 소비자의 요구에 충실하게 부응하는 item으로 성장하고 있다.Tri-acetate material is strong against heat, has a luster and feel close to silk, and has a low initial modulus of elasticity, so it is flexible and has excellent drape. It has better resilience than cotton or rayon, so it doesn't wrinkle, and triacetate has better resilience than diacetate, so it doesn't wrinkle easily even at high humidity. It is growing as an item that faithfully meets the needs of consumers who want
그러나 트리아세테이트의 경우 일본의 三菱Rayon社에서 독점적으로 공급하고 있으며, 타국 업체의 경우 원사의 구입에 있어서도 자유롭지 못하는 어려움이 있어 일반 합성섬유로 Tri-acetate의 촉감이나 광택을 내기 위한 다양한 시도가 있어왔다.However, in the case of triacetate, Japan's 三菱Rayon is exclusively supplying it, and in the case of other companies, there are difficulties in purchasing yarn, so various attempts have been made to achieve the tactile and luster of tri-acetate with general synthetic fibers. .
개발된 아세테이트 관련 제품을 보면 PET 필라멘트의 이형단면을 이용하여 아세테이트의 고급스러운 광택 특성을 나타내고자 한 것이나, 원사 단면을 변경하는 것만으로 아세테이트의 독특한 특성을 발현하는 것이 매우 어려운 측면이 있었다.Looking at the developed acetate-related products, it was intended to express the luxurious luster properties of acetate by using the deformed cross section of the PET filament, but it was very difficult to express the unique properties of acetate only by changing the yarn cross section.
또한, 디아세테이트를 100% 경사로 사용하고 나일론/스판덱스, 폴리에스터/스판덱스사를 위사로 사용한 원단이 개발되었으나, 일방향 스트레치성만을 발현하는데 그치고 있어 아세테이트와 유사한 구김성, 광택, 대전방지성, 반발성, 촉감 및 심색성과 같은 다양화되고 고급화된 물성으로 최근 소비자의 욕구를 충족시키기에 부족한 실정이다.In addition, fabrics using diacetate at 100% warp and nylon/spandex and polyester/spandex as weft yarns have been developed, but they only express unidirectional stretch properties, so they have similar wrinkle properties, gloss, antistatic properties, and resilience to acetate. The diversified and advanced physical properties such as tactile, tactile, and deep color are insufficient to satisfy the needs of recent consumers.
그러므로 본 발명에서는 카치온가염성 폴리에스테르반연신필라멘트사의 특성을 이용하여 아세테이트와 유사한 구김성, 광택, 대전방지성, 반발성, 촉감 및 심색성을 가지는 폴리에스터 복합가공사를 제공하는 것을 기술적과제로 한다.Therefore, in the present invention, it is a technical task to provide a polyester composite processing material having similar wrinkle properties, gloss, antistatic properties, repellency, feel and deep color properties to acetate using the characteristics of cationic dyed polyester semi-stretched filament yarns.
그러므로 본 발명에 의하면, 폴리에스테르연신필라멘트사와 카치온가염성 폴리에스테르반연신필라멘트사를 제1피드롤러를 통과시키고, Therefore, according to the present invention, the polyester drawn filament yarn and cationic dyed polyester semi-drawn filament yarn are passed through the first feed roller,
공기압은 0.5~2.5kg/㎠이고, 노즐직경은 1.0~2.0㎜인 인터레이스노즐에서 인터레이스 한 후, After interlacing with interlaced nozzles with an air pressure of 0.5 to 2.5 kg/cm2 and a nozzle diameter of 1.0 to 2.0 mm,
170℃의 히터에서 열처리한 후, 제 2 피드롤러를 통과시키고 오일링한 후 권취롤러로 사속 400~800m/분으로 권취하는 것을 특징으로 하는 심색성 및 드레이프성이 우수한 폴리에스테르 복합가공사의 제조방법이 제공된다.After heat treatment in a heater at 170° C., passing through a second feed roller, oiling, and winding with a winding roller at a yarn speed of 400 to 800 m/min. this is provided
이하 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다. Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
본 발명의 심색성 및 드레이프성이 우수한 폴리에스테르 복합가공사의 제조방법은 폴리에스테르연신필라멘트사와 카치온가염성 폴리에스테르반연신필라멘트사를 인터레이스한 후 열처리하고 권취하여 아세테이트와 유사한 구김성, 광택, 대전방지성, 반발성 및 심색성을 부여하는 것이다. The method for producing a polyester composite yarn having excellent deep color and drape properties of the present invention is to interlace a polyester drawn filament yarn and a cationic dyed polyester semi-drawn filament yarn, then heat-treat it and wind it up, so that wrinkle, gloss, and antistatic properties similar to acetate are , to impart resilience and deep color.
본 발명의 복합가공사의 제조방법은 도 1에 도시된 바와 같이 폴리에스테르연신필라멘트사(1)와 카치온가염성 폴리에스테르반연신필라멘트사(2)를 제1피드롤러(3)를 통과시키고, 공기압은 0.5~2.5kg/㎠이고, 노즐직경은 1.0~2.0㎜인 인터레이스노즐(4)에서 인터레이스한 후, 170℃의 히터(5)에서 열처리한 후, 제2피드롤러(6)를 통과시키고 오일링한 후 권취롤러(7)로 사속 400~800m/분으로 권취한다.The manufacturing method of the composite processing yarn of the present invention passes the
본 발명에서 원사 중 하나로 사용하는 폴리에스테르연신필라멘트사(1)는 일명 FDY사로도 불리우는 필라멘트사로서 그 물성이 의류용으로 사용하기에 적합한 강신도를 가지고 있어 본 발명의 복합가공사에서 심사로서 기본 물성을 담당하는 역할을 하게 된다.The polyester elongated filament yarn (1) used as one of the yarns in the present invention is a filament yarn also called FDY yarn. will play a responsible role.
또한, 본 발명에서 원사 중 하나로 사용하는 카치온가염성 폴리에스테르반연신필라멘트사(2)는 염기성염료에 대한 염색성을 향상시키고자 제조된 필라멘트사로서 일반적으로 Cation dyeable PET(CDP)라 칭하고 있다. 이러한 카치온가염성 폴리에스테르반연신필라멘트사는 일반적인 중합법에 의한 PET 원사보다 용융점이 20℃ 정도 낮아, 방사온도도 그에 맞춰 조절하게 되며, 제조된 원사를 취급함에 있어서도 그 용융점을 감안한 공정온도를 설정하고 있다. 그렇지만 일반적인 염색가공 공정중에서는 설정온도에 따라 경화되는 공정사고가 빈번하게 발생하였고, 이는 제품의 불량으로 연결되는 경우가 많았다.In addition, the cation dyeable polyester semi-stretched filament yarn (2) used as one of the yarns in the present invention is a filament yarn manufactured to improve dyeability with respect to basic dyes, and is generally referred to as cation dyeable PET (CDP). These cationic dyeable polyester semi-stretched filament yarns have a melting point about 20°C lower than PET yarns by general polymerization, and the spinning temperature is adjusted accordingly. . However, in the general dyeing and processing process, there were frequent process accidents that hardened according to the set temperature, which often led to product defects.
본 발명에서는 상기 CDP의 경화 현상을 이용하여 그 경화 정도에 따라 원단의 촉감상에 바삭바삭한 Crispness를 나타낼 수 있을 것으로 판단하고, 또한 잠재자발적인 신장상태로 만들기 위하여 방사속도 2,500∼3,500 m/m 로 만들어진 반연신사를 이펙트사로 적용하고, 이를 다른 원사와 복합하여 열처리함으로써, 자발신장케 하여 이수축효과를 발휘하면서도 Crispness를 발현하도록 한 것이다.In the present invention, by using the curing phenomenon of the CDP, it is determined that crispness can be exhibited on the texture of the fabric according to the degree of curing, and a spinning speed of 2,500 to 3,500 m/m was made in order to create a potential spontaneous elongation state. Semi-stretched yarn is applied as an effect yarn, and it is combined with other yarns and heat-treated so that it can be stretched spontaneously, thereby exhibiting the effect of contraction and crispness.
본 발명에서는 상기 폴리에스테르연신필라멘트사(1)와 카치온가염성 폴리에스테르반연신필라멘트사(2)를 제1피드롤러(3)를 통과시키고, 공기압은 0.5~2.5kg/㎠이고, 노즐직경은 1.0~2.0㎜인 인터레이스노즐(4)에서 인터레이스하게 되는데, 공기압력 0.5㎏/㎠미만에서는 가공사의 집합성이 미흡한 문제점이 발생할 수 있고, 2.5㎏/㎠초과시에는 루프가 다량 발생하여 후공정에서의 작업성이 떨어지는 문제점이 발생할 수 있다.In the present invention, the polyester drawn filament yarn (1) and the cationic dyed polyester semi-drawn filament yarn (2) are passed through the first feed roller (3), the air pressure is 0.5 ~ 2.5 kg / ㎠, the nozzle diameter is 1.0 Interlacing is performed in the interlace nozzle 4 with a thickness of ~2.0 mm. If the air pressure is less than 0.5 kg/cm2, a problem of insufficient assembly of the processed yarn may occur. This drop problem may occur.
본 발명에서 상기 폴리에스테르연신필라멘트사는 30~100d/24~48fila이고, 상기 카치온가염성 폴리에스테르반연신필라멘트사는 50~250d/24~96fila인 것을 사용하는 것이 최종 복합가공사의 심색성, 드레이프성, CRISPNESS(바삭바삭한 느낌의 터치, 광택을 나타내는데 바람직하다.In the present invention, the polyester stretched filament yarn It is 30-100d/24-48fila, and the use of the cationic dyeable polyester semi-stretched filament yarn of 50-250d/24-96fila is the deep color, drape, and CRISPNESS (crispy touch, gloss) of the final composite processing. It is preferable to indicate
상기 인터레이스후, 170℃의 히터(5)에서 열처리한 후, 제2피드롤러(6)를 통과시키고 오일링한 후 권취롤러(7)로 사속 400~800m/분으로 권취하여 본 발명의 폴리에스테르 복합가공사를 제조하게 된다.After the interlacing, after heat treatment in a heater (5) at 170°C, passing through the second feed roller (6), oiling, and winding it up with a winding roller (7) at a yarn speed of 400 to 800 m/min. Composite manufacturing works.
삭제delete
상기 제1피드롤러와 제2피드롤러간의 오버피드율은 1.02~1.05인 것이 바람직한데, 오버피드율 1.02미만에서는 사절이 발생하고 교락 형성이 어려운 문제점이 발생되며, 1.05를 초과하는 겅우에는 모우 및 루프가 발생하고, 권취가 잘 되지 않는 문제점이 발생할 수 있다.The overfeed rate between the first feed roller and the second feed roller is preferably 1.02 to 1.05. If the overfeed rate is less than 1.02, trimming occurs and difficult to form bridging occurs. And a loop may occur, and a problem in which winding is not good may occur.
그러므로 본 발명에 의하면, 카치온가염성 폴리에스테르반연신필라멘트사의 특성을 이용하여 아세테이트와 유사한 구김성, 광택, 대전방지성, 반발성, 촉감 및 심색성을 가지는 폴리에스터 복합가공사를 제공하여 원단으로 제작하는 경우에 원단의 촉감상에 바삭바삭한 Crispness와 우수한 드레이프성 및 이수축효과를 발현할 수 있다.Therefore, according to the present invention, by using the characteristics of the cationic dyed polyester semi-stretched filament yarn, it provides a polyester composite processing yarn having similar wrinkle properties, gloss, antistatic properties, resilience, touch and deep color properties to acetate, which is produced as a fabric. In this case, it is possible to express crispness, excellent drape and shrinkage effect on the texture of the fabric.
도 1은 본 발명의 복합가공사의 제조공정의 모식도이며,
도 2는 본 발명의 복합가공사로 편직한 편물의 사진이며,
도 3은 비교예 1의 편물의 사진이다. 1 is a schematic diagram of the manufacturing process of the composite processing yarn of the present invention,
2 is a photograph of a knitted fabric knitted with a composite processing yarn of the present invention;
3 is a photograph of a knitted fabric of Comparative Example 1. FIG.
다음의 실시예에서는 본 발명의 복합가공사를 제조하는 비한정적인 예시를 하고 있다.The following examples are non-limiting examples of manufacturing the composite yarn of the present invention.
[실시예 1][Example 1]
폴리에스테르연신필라멘트사(PET FDY 50d/36fila SD)와 카치온가염성 폴리에스테르반연신필라멘트사(PET CD POY 85d/36fila BR)를 제1피드롤러를 통과시키고, 공기압은 2.0kg/㎠이고, 노즐직경은 1.4㎜인 인터레이스노즐에서 인터레이스한 후, 170℃의 히터에서 열처리한 후, 오버피드율 1.05로 제2피드롤러를 통과시키고 오일링한 후 권취롤러로 사속 500m/분으로 권취하여 복합가공사를 제조하였다.The polyester stretched filament yarn (PET FDY 50d/36fila SD) and the cationic dyed polyester semi-stretched filament yarn (PET CD POY 85d/36fila BR) are passed through the first feed roller, the air pressure is 2.0kg/cm2, and the nozzle diameter After interlacing in an interlaced nozzle of 1.4 mm, heat treatment at 170° C., passing the second feed roller at an overfeed rate of 1.05, oiling, and winding it up with a winding roller at a yarn speed of 500 m/min to manufacture a composite yarn did.
[비교예 1][Comparative Example 1]
트리아세테이트 120d/33fila 사로 실시예 1과 동일한 조건으로 편직한 원단을 준비하였다. A fabric knitted with triacetate 120d/33fila yarn under the same conditions as in Example 1 was prepared.
상기 실시예 1에서 제조된 복합가공사 및 그로 편직된 편물과 비교예 1의 편물의 물성을 측정하여 표 1에 비교하였다.The composite processing yarn prepared in Example 1 and the physical properties of the knitted fabric and the knitted fabric of Comparative Example 1 were measured and compared in Table 1.
1 : 폴리에스테르연신필라멘트사
2 : 카치온가염성 폴리에스테르반연신필라멘트사
3 : 제1피드롤러 4 : 인터레이스노즐
5 : 히터
6 : 제2피드롤러 7 : 권취롤러1: Polyester stretched filament yarn
2: Cation dyed polyester semi-stretched filament yarn
3: first feed roller 4: interlace nozzle
5: Heater
6: second feed roller 7: winding roller
Claims (3)
공기압은 0.5~2.5kg/㎠이고, 노즐직경은 1.0~2.0㎜인 인터레이스노즐에서 인터레이스 한 후,
170℃의 히터에서 열처리한 후, 제1피드롤러와 제2피드롤러간의 오버피드율 1.02~1.05로 제2피드롤러를 통과시키고 오일링한 후 권취롤러로 사속 400~800m/분으로 권취하는 것을 특징으로 하는 심색성 및 드레이프성이 우수한 폴리에스테르 복합가공사의 제조방법.The polyester stretched filament yarn and the cationic dyed polyester semi-stretched filament yarn are passed through the first feed roller,
After interlacing with interlaced nozzles with an air pressure of 0.5-2.5 kg/cm2 and a nozzle diameter of 1.0-2.0 mm,
After heat treatment in a heater at 170°C, pass the second feed roller at an overfeed rate of 1.02 to 1.05 between the first and second feed rollers, oil it, and then wind it up with a winding roller at a yarn speed of 400 to 800 m/min. A method for manufacturing a polyester composite yarn with excellent deep color and drape characteristics.
상기 폴리에스테르연신필라멘트사는 30~100d/24~48fila이고, 상기 카치온가염성 폴리에스테르반연신필라멘트사는 50~250d/24~96fila인 것을 특징으로 하는 심색성 및 드레이프성이 우수한 폴리에스테르 복합가공사의 제조방법.The method of claim 1,
The polyester stretched filament yarn is 30-100d/24-48fila, and the cationic dyed polyester semi-stretched filament yarn is 50-250d/24-96fila. .
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| JP2001003232A (en) | 1999-06-21 | 2001-01-09 | Toray Ind Inc | Production of polyester-based composite processed yarn |
| KR100727210B1 (en) | 2006-06-21 | 2007-06-13 | 제원화섬 주식회사 | Manufacturing system for pet interlaced yarn and process of producing pet interlaced yarn using thereof |
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| KR20080008742A (en) | 2006-07-21 | 2008-01-24 | 주식회사 효성 | A process for making an acetate yarn like-polyester interlaced yarn of a good melange effect |
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