KR102400011B1 - Eco-friendly manufacturing method of natural leather using vegetable natural dyes - Google Patents

Eco-friendly manufacturing method of natural leather using vegetable natural dyes Download PDF

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KR102400011B1
KR102400011B1 KR1020210180355A KR20210180355A KR102400011B1 KR 102400011 B1 KR102400011 B1 KR 102400011B1 KR 1020210180355 A KR1020210180355 A KR 1020210180355A KR 20210180355 A KR20210180355 A KR 20210180355A KR 102400011 B1 KR102400011 B1 KR 102400011B1
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natural
natural leather
vegetable
leather
dye
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KR1020210180355A
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Korean (ko)
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김태훈
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삼양통상 주식회사
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/34General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using natural dyestuffs
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C14SKINS; HIDES; PELTS; LEATHER
    • C14CCHEMICAL TREATMENT OF HIDES, SKINS OR LEATHER, e.g. TANNING, IMPREGNATING, FINISHING; APPARATUS THEREFOR; COMPOSITIONS FOR TANNING
    • C14C11/00Surface finishing of leather
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C14SKINS; HIDES; PELTS; LEATHER
    • C14CCHEMICAL TREATMENT OF HIDES, SKINS OR LEATHER, e.g. TANNING, IMPREGNATING, FINISHING; APPARATUS THEREFOR; COMPOSITIONS FOR TANNING
    • C14C9/00Impregnating leather for preserving, waterproofing, making resistant to heat or similar purposes
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C14SKINS; HIDES; PELTS; LEATHER
    • C14CCHEMICAL TREATMENT OF HIDES, SKINS OR LEATHER, e.g. TANNING, IMPREGNATING, FINISHING; APPARATUS THEREFOR; COMPOSITIONS FOR TANNING
    • C14C9/00Impregnating leather for preserving, waterproofing, making resistant to heat or similar purposes
    • C14C9/02Impregnating leather for preserving, waterproofing, making resistant to heat or similar purposes using fatty or oily materials, e.g. fat liquoring
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C14SKINS; HIDES; PELTS; LEATHER
    • C14CCHEMICAL TREATMENT OF HIDES, SKINS OR LEATHER, e.g. TANNING, IMPREGNATING, FINISHING; APPARATUS THEREFOR; COMPOSITIONS FOR TANNING
    • C14C9/00Impregnating leather for preserving, waterproofing, making resistant to heat or similar purposes
    • C14C9/04Fixing tanning agents in the leather
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/445Use of auxiliary substances before, during or after dyeing or printing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06PDYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/32Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups leather skins
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02PCLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
    • Y02P70/00Climate change mitigation technologies in the production process for final industrial or consumer products
    • Y02P70/50Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product
    • Y02P70/62Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product related technologies for production or treatment of textile or flexible materials or products thereof, including footwear

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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

An eco-friendly manufacturing method for natural leather using natural plant dyes according to the present invention comprises: a washing step for washing natural leather; a dyeing step for injecting, into the natural leather, a first material group comprising plant components, a second material group comprising a polymer, and natural plant dyes; and a fatliquoring step for imparting flexibility to the natural leather by injecting a third material group comprising an oil-based fatliquoring agent into the natural leather.

Description

식물성 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 친환경 제조 방법{Eco-friendly manufacturing method of natural leather using vegetable natural dyes}Eco-friendly manufacturing method of natural leather using vegetable natural dyes

본 발명은 식물성 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 제조 방법에 관한 것으로서, 천연가죽의 염색공정시 천연염료를 사용하여 특정 색상을 가지는 천연가죽을 제조함으로써, 합성염료에 의해 염색한 천연가죽보다 우수한 색상 및 염착량 특성에 의해 색상이 미려하고 인체 무해한 친환경적인 천연 가죽의 제조 방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method for producing natural leather using a vegetable natural dye, and by producing natural leather having a specific color using a natural dye during the dyeing process of natural leather, a color superior to natural leather dyed with a synthetic dye and It relates to a method for producing an eco-friendly natural leather with a beautiful color and harmless to the human body due to the dyeing amount characteristic.

합성염료를 이용한 가죽의 염색공정에서 발생하는 폐수는 심각한 환경문제를 일으키고 있으며, 최근 환경 문제에 대한 각국의 관심이 더해짐에 따라 이에 대한 규제도 생기고 있는 실정이다.Wastewater generated in the leather dyeing process using synthetic dyes is causing serious environmental problems, and regulations are also being made on this as each country's interest in environmental problems increases.

또한 천연가죽의 염색 시 사용되는 합성염료는 신체에 부작용을 일으키는 등 환경 문제 외에 인간의 건강에 미치는 영향도 큰 것으로 알려진다.In addition, synthetic dyes used for dyeing natural leather are known to have a large impact on human health in addition to environmental problems, such as causing side effects on the body.

따라서 위와 같은 문제점을 예방하기 위하여 친환경적이고 인체에 무해한 천연가죽 제조 방법에 대한 수요가 점차 늘고 있다.Therefore, in order to prevent the above problems, the demand for an eco-friendly and harmless natural leather manufacturing method is gradually increasing.

대한민국 등록특허공보 제 10-1071337호Republic of Korea Patent Publication No. 10-1071337

본 발명은 상술한 종래 기술의 문제점을 해결하기 위하여 안출된 발명으로서, 식물성 천연염료를 이용하여 특정 색상을 갖는 천연가죽의 제조 방법을 제공하기 위함이다.The present invention is an invention devised to solve the problems of the prior art, and is intended to provide a method for manufacturing natural leather having a specific color using a natural vegetable dye.

또한, 식물성 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 제조 방법으로부터 제조된 천연가죽을 제공하기 위함이다.In addition, it is to provide a natural leather prepared by a method for producing natural leather using a natural vegetable dye.

본 발명의 과제들은 이상에서 언급한 과제들로 제한되지 않으며, 언급되지 않은 또 다른 과제들은 아래의 기재로부터 당업자에게 명확하게 이해될 수 있을 것이다.The problems of the present invention are not limited to the problems mentioned above, and other problems not mentioned will be clearly understood by those skilled in the art from the following description.

상기한 목적을 달성하기 위한 본 발명의 식물성 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 제조 방법은, 천연가죽을 세척하는 세척공정, 상기 천연가죽에 식물 성분을 포함하는 제1물질군, 폴리머를 포함하는 제2물질군 및 식물성 천연염료를 투입하는 염색공정 및 상기 천연가죽에 오일 성분의 가지제를 포함하는 제3물질군을 투입하여 상기 천연가죽에 유연성을 부여하는 가지공정을 포함할 수 있다.A method for producing natural leather using a vegetable natural dye of the present invention for achieving the above object is a washing process for washing the natural leather, a first group of materials containing a plant component in the natural leather, and a second containing a polymer It may include a dyeing process of adding a substance group and a vegetable natural dye, and a branching process of giving flexibility to the natural leather by adding a third substance group including an oily fatliquoring agent to the natural leather.

이때, 상기 세척공정을 거쳐 세척된 천연가죽에 철분제거제, 가지보조제 및 중화보조제 중 적어도 어느 하나를 투입하여 상기 천연가죽의 PH를 조절하는 전처리공정을 더 포함할 수 있다.In this case, the method may further include a pretreatment step of adjusting the PH of the natural leather by adding at least one of an iron remover, an eggplant aid, and a neutralization aid to the natural leather washed through the washing process.

또는, 상기 천연가죽의 색상의 채도를 향상시키기 위하여, 상기 가지공정을 거친 천연가죽에 상기 식물성 천연염료의 분말을 투입하여 표면 염색을 수행하는 톱공정을 더 포함할 수 있다.Alternatively, in order to improve the color saturation of the natural leather, it may further include a top process of performing surface dyeing by injecting the powder of the vegetable natural dye into the natural leather that has undergone the eggplant process.

또는, 상기 가지공정을 거친 천연가죽에 개미산을 투입하여 상기 제3물질군을 고착시키는 매염공정을 더 포함할 수 있다.Alternatively, it may further include a mordant process of fixing the third material group by adding formic acid to the natural leather that has undergone the branching process.

또는, 상기 가지공정을 거친 천연가죽에 탈취제 또는 철분제거제를 투입하여 상기 천연가죽을 탈취하는 탈취공정을 더 포함할 수 있다.Alternatively, the method may further include a deodorizing step of deodorizing the natural leather by adding a deodorant or iron remover to the natural leather that has undergone the branching process.

또는, 상기 제1물질군은, 갬비어(gambier), 미모사(mimosa) 및 타라(tara) 중 적어도 어느 하나를 포함할 수 있다.Alternatively, the first material group may include at least one of gambier, mimosa, and tara.

또는, 상기 식물성 천연염료는, 메밀, 헤나, 인디고 또는 미로바란인 것을 특징으로 할 수 있다.Alternatively, the vegetable natural dye may be characterized in that buckwheat, henna, indigo or mirobaran.

또는, 상기 제3물질군은, 올리브, 콩 및 옥수수 중 적어도 어느 하나에서 추출한 오일을 포함할 수 있다.Alternatively, the third substance group may include oil extracted from at least one of olive, soybean, and corn.

그리고 상기한 목적을 달성하기 위한 본 발명의 천연가죽은 상술한 식물성 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 제조 방법으로 제조될 수 있다.And the natural leather of the present invention for achieving the above object can be manufactured by the method for producing natural leather using the vegetable natural dye described above.

상기한 과제를 해결하기 위한 본 발명의 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 제조 방법 및 이로부터 제조된 천연가죽은 다음과 같은 효과가 있다.The method for producing natural leather using a natural dye of the present invention for solving the above problems and the natural leather prepared therefrom have the following effects.

첫째, 자연에 존재하는 염료인, 즉 인체 무해한 천연염료를 사용하여 천연가죽을 염색하여 색상을 부여함으로써, 염색공정의 진행 시 환경오염이 전혀 발생하지 않아 친환경적이다.First, it is eco-friendly because no environmental pollution occurs during the dyeing process by dyeing natural leather using natural dyes, that is, natural dyes that are harmless to the human body.

둘째, 종래 염색 공정에 요구되는 배스(bath)의 교체가 불필요하여 염색 시간을 현저하게 줄일 수 있고 이에 따른 생산성 향상을 기대할 수 있다.Second, since replacement of the bath required for the conventional dyeing process is unnecessary, the dyeing time can be remarkably reduced and productivity improvement can be expected.

셋째, 본 발명에 따라 제조된 천연가죽은 표면의 상처를 최소화함으로써 고품질의 천연가죽을 수득할 수 있다.Third, the natural leather manufactured according to the present invention can obtain high-quality natural leather by minimizing the wound on the surface.

본 발명의 효과들은 이상에서 언급한 효과들로 제한되지 않으며, 언급되지 않은 또 다른 효과들은 청구범위의 기재로부터 당업자에게 명확하게 이해될 수 있을 것이다.Effects of the present invention are not limited to the effects mentioned above, and other effects not mentioned will be clearly understood by those skilled in the art from the description of the claims.

도 1은 본 발명의 식물성 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 친환경 제조 방법의 순서도이다.1 is a flowchart of an eco-friendly manufacturing method of natural leather using a vegetable natural dye of the present invention.

이하 본 발명의 목적이 구체적으로 실현될 수 있는 본 발명의 바람직한 실시예를 첨부된 도면을 참조하여 설명한다. 본 실시예를 설명함에 있어서, 동일 구성에 대해서는 동일 명칭 및 동일 부호가 사용되며 이에 따른 부가적인 설명은 생략하기로 한다.Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of the present invention in which the object of the present invention can be specifically realized will be described with reference to the accompanying drawings. In describing the present embodiment, the same names and the same reference numerals are used for the same components, and an additional description thereof will be omitted.

또한, 본 발명의 실시 예를 설명함에 있어서, 동일 기능을 갖는 구성요소에 대해서는 동일 명칭 및 동일부호를 사용할 뿐 실질적으론 종래와 완전히 동일하지 않음을 미리 밝힌다. In addition, in describing the embodiment of the present invention, the same names and reference numerals are used for components having the same function, and it is substantially not completely the same as in the prior art.

또한, 본 발명의 실시 예에서 사용한 용어는 단지 특정한 실시 예를 설명하기 위해 사용된 것으로, 본 발명을 한정하려는 의도가 아니다. 단수의 표현은 문맥상 명백하게 다르게 뜻하지 않는 한, 복수의 표현을 포함한다. In addition, terms used in the embodiments of the present invention are only used to describe specific embodiments, and are not intended to limit the present invention. The singular expression includes the plural expression unless the context clearly dictates otherwise.

또한, 본 발명의 실시 예에서, "포함하다" 또는 "가지다" 등의 용어는 명세서상에 기재된 특징, 숫자, 단계, 동작, 구성요소, 부품 또는 이들을 조합한 것이 존재함을 지정하려는 것이지, 하나 또는 그 이상의 다른 특징들이나 숫자, 단계, 동작, 구성요소, 부품 또는 이들을 조합한 것들의 존재 또는 부가 가능성을 미리 배제하지 않는 것으로 이해되어야 한다.In addition, in the embodiments of the present invention, terms such as "comprises" or "have" are intended to designate that the features, numbers, steps, operations, components, parts, or combinations thereof described in the specification exist, but one It should be understood that it does not preclude the possibility of the presence or addition of or more other features or numbers, steps, operations, components, parts, or combinations thereof.

본 발명의 식물성 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 친환경 제조 방법의 순서도인 도 1을 참조하여 본 발명의 식물성 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 친환경 제조 방법에 대하여 설명한다.An eco-friendly manufacturing method of natural leather using a vegetable natural dye of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG. 1 , which is a flowchart of an eco-friendly manufacturing method of natural leather using a vegetable natural dye of the present invention.

본 발명의 식물성 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 친환경 제조 방법은, 세척공정(S100), 염색공정(S300) 및 가지공정(S400)을 포함할 수 있다.The eco-friendly manufacturing method of natural leather using a vegetable natural dye of the present invention may include a washing process (S100), a dyeing process (S300) and a branching process (S400).

상기 세척공정(S100)은 염색 전 상태인 웨트 화이트(wet white)에 남아 있는 동물성 지방이나 오염물질 등을 제거하는 공정으로서, 물과 세제가 투입될 수 있다.The washing process (S100) is a process of removing animal fat or contaminants remaining in the wet white state before dyeing, and water and detergent may be added thereto.

구체적으로, 상기 세척공정은, 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 물 300wt%, 세제 0.5wt%를 이용하여 40℃ 온도에서 30분 동안 이루어질 수 있다. 이때, 상기 세제는 예를 들어 포도껍질을 이용한 친환경 세제가 바람직하나, 이에 제한되는 것은 아니다.Specifically, the washing process may be performed at a temperature of 40° C. for 30 minutes using 300 wt% of water and 0.5 wt% of a detergent based on the total weight of the natural leather. In this case, the detergent is preferably an eco-friendly detergent using, for example, grape skins, but is not limited thereto.

상기 세척공정 후에 상기 물을 따른 후 재차 세척하는 제1세수공정을 거칠 수 있다.After the washing process, a first washing process of washing again after pouring the water may be performed.

상기 염색공정(S300)은 상기 천연가죽에 유연성을 제공하고, 중화 및 염색하는 공정으로서, 상기 천연가죽에 식물 성분을 포함하는 제1물질군, 폴리머를 포함하는 제2물질군 및 식물성 천연염료를 투입하는 공정일 수 있다.The dyeing process (S300) is a process of providing flexibility to the natural leather, neutralizing and dyeing, and a first material group containing plant components in the natural leather, a second material group containing a polymer, and a vegetable natural dye. It may be an input process.

이때, 상기 제1물질군은, 갬비어(gambier), 미모사(mimosa) 및 타라(tara) 중 적어도 어느 하나를 포함할 수 있다. 상기 제1물질군은 친환경 물질인 베지터블(vegetable)로 상기 천연가죽에 충진감을 부여할 수 있으며, 구체적으로, 갬비어, 미모사 및 타라는 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 6wt%로 투입되는 것이 바람직하다.In this case, the first material group may include at least one of gambier, mimosa, and tara. The first material group is an eco-friendly material, vegetable (vegetable), which can give a feeling of filling to the natural leather. Specifically, gambier, mimosa and tara are preferably added at 6wt% based on the total weight of the natural leather. .

상기 제2물질군은, X-BIOMER P 또는 X-BIOMER RX를 포함할 수 있다. 상기 X-BIOMER P은 옥수수 추출물을 이용한 것으로 천연가죽에 신축성을 부여할 수 있고, 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 2wt%가 투입될 수 있다. 상기 X-BIOMER RX는 천연가죽의 부산물을 이용한 것으로 천연가죽의 충진감을 부여할 수 있고, 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 2wt%가 투입되는 것이 바람직하다.The second material group may include X-BIOMER P or X-BIOMER RX. The X-BIOMER P can be given elasticity to natural leather by using corn extract, and 2wt% can be added based on the total weight of the natural leather. The X-BIOMER RX uses a by-product of natural leather and can give a feeling of filling of natural leather, and it is preferable that 2wt% is added based on the total weight of the natural leather.

또한 상기 염색공정은, 가지제 및 매염보조제를 투입할 수 있다.In addition, in the dyeing process, an eggplant agent and a mordant auxiliary agent may be added.

상기 가지제는 가죽 내부의 유연성을 부여할 수 있는 물질로 SPE를 포함할 수 있으며, 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 1wt%가 투입되는 것이 바람직하다.The fatliquoring agent is a material capable of imparting flexibility to the inside of the leather and may include SPE, and it is preferable that 1wt% is added based on the total weight of the natural leather.

상기 매염보조제는 상기 천연가죽의 매염 및 상기 염색공정에 투입되는 물질의 침투를 도와주는 신탄으로 사용될 수 있다. 상기 매염보조제는 A-CALF를 포함할 수 있고, 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 2wt%가 투입되는 것이 바람직하다.The mordant auxiliary agent may be used as a syntan to help the penetration of the mordant of the natural leather and the material input to the dyeing process. The mordant auxiliary agent may include A-CALF, and it is preferable that 2wt% is added based on the total weight of the natural leather.

상기 식물성 천연염료는 가죽을 특정색으로 발색시키기 위한 것으로, 메밀, 헤나, 인디고 또는 미로바란인 것을 특징으로 할 수 있다.The vegetable natural dye is for developing leather in a specific color, and may be characterized in that it is buckwheat, henna, indigo or mirobaran.

종래의 경우 천연가죽 염색 기법으로는 염색공정 후 물을 추가하고 개미산 고정 및 왁싱(수세)하는 공정이 수행되는 것이 일반적이나, 본 발명의 경우 염색공정 후 배스를 교환하지 않고 가지공정을 수행함으로써 종래와 비교하여 물 사용량을 현저하게 줄일 수 있고 이에 따른 폐수 발생량을 감소시키는 효과를 구현할 수 있다.In the conventional case, natural leather dyeing technique involves adding water after the dyeing process, fixing formic acid and waxing (washing), but in the present invention, by performing the branching process without exchanging the bath after the dyeing process, conventional It is possible to remarkably reduce the amount of water used compared to that, and realize the effect of reducing the amount of wastewater generated accordingly.

이때, 상기 세척공정(S100)과 상기 염색공정(S300) 사이에 상기 세척공정을 거쳐 세척된 천연가죽에 철분제거제, 가지보조제 및 중화보조제 중 적어도 어느 하나를 투입하여 상기 천연가죽의 PH를 조절하는 전처리공정(S200)을 수행할 수 있다.At this time, by adding at least one of an iron remover, an eggplant aid, and a neutralization aid to the natural leather washed through the washing process between the washing process (S100) and the dyeing process (S300) to adjust the PH of the natural leather A pretreatment process (S200) may be performed.

상기 철분제거제는 염색 드럼 내의 물의 금속들을 침전시키는 것으로, EDTA(Ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid)를 포함할 수 있다. 상기 가지보조제는 상기 염색공정 전 천연가죽의 부드러움 정도(softness)를 보완하는 역할로, GLN을 포함할 수 있다. 그리고 상기 중화보조제는 염색 전 pH를 조절해주는 중화 신탄(합성 탄닌)으로 기능하며, T-NE를 포함할 수 있다.The iron remover is to precipitate metals of water in the dyeing drum, and may include ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA). The eggplant auxiliary agent serves to supplement the softness of the natural leather before the dyeing process, and may include GLN. In addition, the neutralization adjuvant functions as a neutralizing syntan (synthetic tannin) that adjusts the pH before dyeing, and may include T-NE.

구체적으로, 상기 전처리공정은, 먼저 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 물 30wt%, EDTA 0.1wt% 및 GLN 0.5wt%를 투입하여 25℃ 온도에서 20분 동안 공정을 수행한 후, 합성 탄닌 2wt%를 투입하여 같은 온도에서 40분 동안 공정을 수행하는 것이 바람직하다.Specifically, in the pretreatment process, first, 30wt% of water, 0.1wt% of EDTA, and 0.5wt% of GLN were added with respect to the total weight of the natural leather, and the process was performed at 25°C for 20 minutes, and then, 2wt% of synthetic tannin was added. It is preferable to input and perform the process for 40 minutes at the same temperature.

상기 가지공정(S400)은, 상기 천연가죽에 오일 성분의 가지제를 포함하는 제3물질군을 투입하여 상기 천연가죽에 유연성을 부여할 수 있다.In the eggplant process (S400), a third material group including an oily fatliquoring agent may be added to the natural leather to impart flexibility to the natural leather.

이때, 상기 제3물질군은, 올리브, 콩 및 옥수수 중 적어도 어느 하나에서 추출한 오일을 포함할 수 있다. 올리브에서 추출한 오일은 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 3wt%가 투입되는 것이 바람직하고, 콩 또는 옥수수에서 추출한 오일은 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 각각 2wt%가 투입되는 것이 바람직하다.In this case, the third substance group may include oil extracted from at least one of olive, soybean, and corn. It is preferable that the oil extracted from olives be added at 3 wt% based on the total weight of the natural leather, and the oil extracted from soybeans or corn is preferably added at 2 wt% based on the total weight of the natural leather.

또한 상기 가지공정은, 가죽의 신축성 및 견고함(TIGHTNESS)을 부여하는 코폴리머(coplymer)를 포함할 수 있으며, 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 2wt%가 투입되는 것이 바람직하다.In addition, the branching process may include a copolymer that imparts elasticity and firmness (TIGHTNESS) to the leather, and 2wt% is preferably added based on the total weight of the natural leather.

구체적으로, 상기 가지공정은, 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 물 100wt%를 투입하여 55℃ 온도에서 10분 동안 공정을 수행하고, 코폴리머를 같은 온도에서 20분 동안 공정을 수행한 후, 제3물질군을 투입하여 같은 온도에서 90분 동안 공정을 수행하는 것이 바람직하다.Specifically, in the eggplanting process, 100wt% of water is added with respect to the total weight of the natural leather, the process is performed at a temperature of 55°C for 10 minutes, and the copolymer is processed for 20 minutes at the same temperature, and then the third It is preferable to carry out the process for 90 minutes at the same temperature by introducing a group of substances.

상기 가지공정을 실시할 때, 상기 염색공정에서의 배스(bath)를 교체하지 않고 공정을 수행함으로써 식물성 천연염료의 염색 흡착율이 최대화되므로, 공정 수율을 현저하게 높일 수 있다.When performing the eggplant process, since the dye adsorption rate of the vegetable natural dye is maximized by performing the process without replacing the bath in the dyeing process, the process yield can be remarkably increased.

또한, 상기 염색공정과 상기 가지공정 사이에 10분 동안의 드럼 회전 및 50분 동안의 드럼 정지를 1cycle로 하는 오버나이트 공정을 8회 내지 12회 cycle로 수행함으로써 침투 및 결합의 효과를 극대화할 수 있다.In addition, the effect of penetration and bonding can be maximized by performing the overnight process with 1 cycle of drum rotation for 10 minutes and drum stop for 50 minutes between the dyeing process and the branching process in 8 to 12 cycles. there is.

아래 [표 1]에서와 같이 상기 오버나이트 공정을 수행하기 전과 후(10회 cycle)의 결과를 비교하면 오버나이트 공정을 수행함으로써 가죽의 충진감을 더욱 부여하고 단면에 황토 색상이 충분히 침투된 것을 확인할 수 있다. 아래 [표 1]은 식물성 염료가 아닌 황토를 사용한 것이나 해당 공정을 통해 동일하거나 유사한 결과를 나타낼 것임은 본 발명의 기술분야에 속하는 통상의 기술자에게 자명하다.Comparing the results before and after (10 cycles) of performing the overnight process as shown in [Table 1] below, it can be confirmed that by performing the overnight process, the leather has more filling and the ocher color is sufficiently penetrated into the cross section. can [Table 1] below, it is obvious to those skilled in the art that the same or similar results will be obtained through the process using loess rather than vegetable dyes.

오버나이트 공정 전Before overnight process 오버나이트 공정 후After overnight process

Figure 112021145847815-pat00001
Figure 112021145847815-pat00001
Figure 112021145847815-pat00002
Figure 112021145847815-pat00002

이때, 본 발명의 식물성 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 친환경 제조 방법은, 상기 가지공정 후 톱공정(S500), 매염공정(S600) 및 탈취공정(S700)을 순차적으로 수행할 수 있다.At this time, in the eco-friendly manufacturing method of natural leather using the vegetable natural dye of the present invention, the top process (S500), the mordant process (S600) and the deodorization process (S700) may be sequentially performed after the eggplant process.

상기 톱공정(S500)은, 상기 천연가죽의 색상의 채도를 향상시키기 위하여, 상기 가지공정을 거친 천연가죽에 상술한 식물성 천연염료의 분말을 투입하여 표면 염색을 수행할 수 있다.In the top step (S500), in order to improve the color saturation of the natural leather, the surface dyeing may be performed by injecting the above-described vegetable natural dye powder into the natural leather that has undergone the eggplanting process.

구체적으로, 상기 톱공정은, 상기 염색공정에서 사용된 식물성 천연염료를 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 1wt% 내지 2wt%를 투입하여 55℃ 온도에서 20분 동안 공정을 수행하는 것일 수 있다. 이때, 상기 식물성 천연염료는 굵은 입자를 사용하는 경우 천연가죽의 표면에 스크래치 등을 유발하여 상품성이 낮아질 수 있으므로, 곱게 분말화시킨 것을 사용하는 것이 바람직하다Specifically, the top process may be to perform the process for 20 minutes at a temperature of 55 ℃ by adding 1wt% to 2wt% of the vegetable natural dye used in the dyeing process with respect to the total weight of the natural leather. At this time, when using coarse particles, the vegetable natural dye may cause scratches on the surface of natural leather, thereby lowering commercial properties, so it is preferable to use a finely powdered dye.

상기 매염공정(S600)은, 상기 가지공정을 거친 천연가죽에 개미산을 투입하여 상기 제3물질군을 고착시킬 수 있다.In the mordant process (S600), formic acid may be added to the natural leather that has undergone the branching process to fix the third material group.

구체적으로, 상기 매염공정은, 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 개미산 1wt%를 투입하여 55℃ 온도에서 50분 동안 공정을 수행하는 것일 수 있다.Specifically, the mordant process may be to perform the process for 50 minutes at a temperature of 55 ℃ by adding 1wt% of formic acid based on the total weight of the natural leather.

그리고 상기 탈취공정(S700)은, 상기 가지공정을 거친 천연가죽에 탈취제 또는 철분제거제를 투입하여 상기 천연가죽을 탈취, 즉 천연가죽 등에 밴 악취 등의 냄새를 제거할 수 있다.And, in the deodorization process (S700), a deodorant or iron remover is added to the natural leather that has undergone the branching process to deodorize the natural leather, that is, it is possible to remove odors such as odors from natural leather.

상기 탈취공정은 천연가죽의 냄새를 완화시키는 유기산의 탈취제 또는 천연가죽 내에 잔류하는 철분을 제거하고 pH를 조절할 수 있는 철분제거제를 투입할 수 있다.In the deodorization process, an organic acid deodorizing agent for alleviating the smell of natural leather or an iron removing agent capable of removing iron remaining in natural leather and adjusting pH may be added.

구체적으로, 상기 탈취공정은, 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 물 300wt%, 탈취제 1wt% 및 철분제거제 0.3wt%를 투입하여 25℃ 온도에서 30분 동안 공정을 수행하는 것일 수 있다.Specifically, the deodorization process may be to perform the process for 30 minutes at a temperature of 25 ℃ by adding 300wt% of water, 1wt% of a deodorant and 0.3wt% of an iron remover based on the total weight of the natural leather.

또한, 본 발명은 상기 제조방법으로 제조된 천연염료 색상을 갖는 천연가죽을 제공한다.In addition, the present invention provides a natural leather having a natural dye color manufactured by the above manufacturing method.

이하, 본 발명을 하기 실시예에 의해 더욱 구체적으로 설명한다. 그러나 이들 실시예는 본 발명에 대한 이해를 돕기 위한 것일 뿐, 어떤 의미로든 본 발명의 범위가 이들에 의해 제한되는 것은 아니다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail by way of Examples. However, these examples are only for helping the understanding of the present invention, and the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto in any sense.

(실시예 1)(Example 1)

상술한 본 발명의 식물성 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 제조 방법에 따라 하기 [표 2]에 기재된 공정 및 물질을 활용하여 특정 색상을 갖는 천연가죽을 제조하였다.According to the method for producing natural leather using the vegetable natural dye of the present invention described above, natural leather having a specific color was prepared by using the processes and materials described in Table 2 below.

공정fair 물질명substance name 중량(wt)%Weight (wt)% 온도(℃)Temperature (℃) 시간(분)hours (minutes) 세척공정washing process water 300300 4040 3030 PROSOAKPROSOAK 0.50.5 수세wash -- -- -- 1010 전처리공정pretreatment process water 3030 2525 2020 EDTAEDTA 0.10.1 GLNGLN 0.50.5 T-NET-NE 22 4040 염색공정Dyeing process GAMBIERGAMBIER 66 2525 4040 MIMOSAMIMOS 66 TARATARA 66 X-BIOMER PX-BIOMER P 22 X-BIOMER RXX-BIOMER RX 22 SPESPE 1One A-CALFA-CALF 22 180180 식물성 천연염료vegetable natural dye 4 내지 84 to 8 오버나이트공정Overnight process 1cycle(60분) = 드럼 회전(10분) + 드럼 정지(50분)
8 내지 12회 cycle
1 cycle (60 minutes) = drum rotation (10 minutes) + drum stop (50 minutes)
8 to 12 cycles
가지공정branching process water 100100 5555 1010 PMBPMB 22 2020 OLVOLV 33 9090 NLMNLM 22 CFSCFS 22 ELV-A01ELV-A01 22 톱공정saw process 식물성 천연염료 분말Plant natural dye powder 1 내지 21 to 2 5555 2020 매염공정mordant process 개미산formic acid 1One 5555 5050 수세wash -- -- -- 1010 탈취공정deodorization process water 300300 2525 3030 DIOSOLDIOSOL 1One 수산fisheries 0.30.3

상기 염색공정에서 제1물질군과 제2물질군을 투입하여 25℃ 온도에서 40분 동안 드럼 공정을 수행하고, 다음으로 매염보조제 및 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 4wt%의 식물성 천연염료를 투입하여 25℃ 온도에서 180분 동안 드럼 공정을 수행하였고, 톱공정에서 식물성 천연염료 분말을 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 2wt% 투입하여 55℃ 온도에서 20분 동안 공정을 수행하여 아래 [표 3]와 같이 각 식물성 천연염료에 따른 미려한 색상의 천연가죽을 제조하였다.In the dyeing process, the first material group and the second material group were added, and the drum process was performed at a temperature of 25° C. for 40 minutes, and then, 4wt% of a vegetable natural dye was added based on the total weight of the mordant auxiliary and natural leather. The drum process was performed at 25 ° C. for 180 minutes, and in the top process, 2 wt % of vegetable natural dye powder was added based on the total weight of natural leather, and the process was performed at 55 ° C. for 20 minutes as shown in [Table 3] below. Beautifully colored natural leather was prepared according to each vegetable natural dye.

사용량usage 메밀buckwheat 헤나henna 인디고indigo blue 미로바란labyrinth 염색공정 8wt%+
톱공정 2wt%
Dyeing process 8wt%+
Saw process 2wt%

Figure 112021145847815-pat00003
Figure 112021145847815-pat00003
Figure 112021145847815-pat00004
Figure 112021145847815-pat00004
Figure 112021145847815-pat00005
Figure 112021145847815-pat00005
Figure 112021145847815-pat00006
Figure 112021145847815-pat00006

(실시예 2)(Example 2)

상기 염색공정에서 제1물질군과 제2물질군을 투입하여 25℃ 온도에서 40분 동안 드럼 공정을 수행하고, 다음으로 매염보조제 및 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 8wt%의 식물성 천연염료를 투입하여 25℃ 온도에서 180분 동안 드럼 공정을 수행하였고, 톱공정에서 식물성 천연염료 분말을 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 2wt% 투입하여 55℃ 온도에서 20분 동안 공정을 수행하여 천연가죽을 제조하였다.In the dyeing process, the first material group and the second material group were added, and the drum process was performed at a temperature of 25° C. for 40 minutes, and then, 8wt% of a vegetable natural dye was added based on the total weight of the mordant auxiliary and natural leather. The drum process was performed at a temperature of 25° C. for 180 minutes, and 2wt% of a vegetable natural dye powder was added based on the total weight of the natural leather in the top process, and the process was performed at a temperature of 55° C. for 20 minutes to prepare natural leather.

(비교예 1)(Comparative Example 1)

상기 염색공정에서 제1물질군과 제2물질군을 투입하여 25℃ 온도에서 40분 동안 드럼 공정을 수행하고, 다음으로 매염보조제 및 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 4wt%의 식물성 천연염료를 투입하여 25℃ 온도에서 180분 동안 드럼 공정을 수행하여 천연가죽을 제조하였다.In the dyeing process, the first material group and the second material group were added, and the drum process was performed at a temperature of 25° C. for 40 minutes, and then, 4wt% of a vegetable natural dye was added based on the total weight of the mordant auxiliary and natural leather. The drum process was performed at a temperature of 25° C. for 180 minutes to prepare natural leather.

(비교예 2)(Comparative Example 2)

상기 염색공정에서 제1물질군과 제2물질군을 투입하여 25℃ 온도에서 40분 동안 드럼 공정을 수행하고, 다음으로 매염보조제 및 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 10wt%의 식물성 천연염료를 투입하여 25℃ 온도에서 180분 동안 드럼 공정을 수행하였고, 톱공정에서 식물성 천연염료 분말을 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 2wt% 투입하여 55℃ 온도에서 20분 동안 공정을 수행하여 천연가죽을 제조하였다.In the dyeing process, the first material group and the second material group were added, and the drum process was performed at a temperature of 25° C. for 40 minutes, and then, 10wt% of a vegetable natural dye was added based on the total weight of the mordant auxiliary and natural leather. The drum process was performed at a temperature of 25° C. for 180 minutes, and 2wt% of a vegetable natural dye powder was added based on the total weight of the natural leather in the top process, and the process was performed at a temperature of 55° C. for 20 minutes to prepare natural leather.

상기 실시예 1, 2 및 비교예 1, 2의 제조 예에 따른 가죽의 강도(softness)를 비교한 값은 [표 4]의 내용과 같다.The values comparing the softness of the leather according to the preparation examples of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 are as shown in [Table 4].

구분division 비교예 1Comparative Example 1 실시예 1Example 1 실시예 2Example 2 비교예 2Comparative Example 2 사용량usage 4 wt%4 wt% 6 wt%6 wt% 10 wt%10 wt% 12 wt%12 wt% softness(M/M)softness(M/M) 2.7~3.22.7~3.2 2.5~3.02.5~3.0 2.1~2.52.1~2.5 1.9~2.31.9~2.3

상기 표의 softness는 BLC에서 인증한 MSA ST300으로 EN ISO 17235에 준해 측정한 가죽의 강도 값으로, 염색공정과 톱공정에서 사용된 전체 식물성 천연염료의 사용량(wt%)에 따라 강도가 달라질 수 있다.The softness in the table above is the strength value of leather measured in accordance with EN ISO 17235 with MSA ST300 certified by BLC, and the strength may vary depending on the amount (wt%) of total vegetable natural dyes used in the dyeing process and the sawing process.

이때, 가죽의 강도는 2.5 내지 3.0 사이가 바람직하다. 가죽의 강도가 2.5 보다 작은 경우에는 가죽 내의 충진감이 비교적 적고, 가죽의 강도가 3.0 보다 큰 경우에는 가죽의 강도가 지나치게 강하여 향후 제품 제작이 용이하지 못하고 경제적으로도 불리하기 때문이다.At this time, the strength of the leather is preferably between 2.5 and 3.0. When the strength of the leather is less than 2.5, the feeling of filling in the leather is relatively small, and when the strength of the leather is greater than 3.0, the strength of the leather is too strong, making it difficult to manufacture future products and economically disadvantageous.

이상과 같이 본 발명에 따른 바람직한 실시예를 살펴보았으며, 앞서 설명된 실시예 이외에도 본 발명이 그 취지나 범주에서 벗어남이 없이 다른 특정 형태로 구체화될 수 있다는 사실은 해당 기술에 통상의 지식을 가진 이들에게는 자명한 것이다. 그러므로, 상술된 실시예는 제한적인 것이 아니라 예시적인 것으로 여겨져야 하고, 이에 따라 본 발명은 상술한 설명에 한정되지 않고 첨부된 청구항의 범주 및 그 동등 범위 내에서 변경될 수도 있다.As described above, preferred embodiments according to the present invention have been reviewed, and the fact that the present invention can be embodied in other specific forms without departing from the spirit or scope of the present invention in addition to the above-described embodiments is one of ordinary skill in the art. It is obvious to them. Therefore, the above-described embodiments are to be regarded as illustrative rather than restrictive, and accordingly, the present invention is not limited to the above description, but may be modified within the scope of the appended claims and their equivalents.

S100: 세척공정
S200: 전처리공정
S300: 염색공정
S400: 가지공정
S500: 톱공정
S600: 매염공정
S700: 탈취공정
S100: cleaning process
S200: pretreatment process
S300: Dyeing process
S400: eggplant process
S500: saw process
S600: mordant process
S700: deodorization process

Claims (9)

천연가죽을 세척하는 세척공정;
상기 세척공정을 거쳐 세척된 천연가죽에 EDTA(Ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid), 가지보조제 및 중화보조제를 투입하여 상기 천연가죽의 pH를 조절하는 전처리공정;
상기 천연가죽에 식물 성분을 포함하는 제1물질군, 폴리머를 포함하는 제2물질군, 식물성 천연염료 및 매염보조제를 투입하는 염색공정;
염색공정에서 사용된 배스(bath)를 교환하지 않고, 상기 천연가죽에 오일 성분의 가지제를 포함하는 제3물질군을 투입하여 상기 천연가죽에 유연성을 부여하는 가지공정; 및
상기 천연가죽의 색상의 채도를 향상시키기 위하여, 상기 가지공정을 거친 천연가죽에 상기 식물성 천연염료의 분말을 투입하여 표면 염색을 수행하는 톱공정;
을 포함하고,
상기 제1물질군은, 갬비어(gambier), 미모사(mimosa) 및 타라(tara)를 포함하며,
상기 염색공정은 제1물질군과 제2물질군을 투입하여 25℃ 온도에서 40분 동안 드럼 공정을 수행하고, 다음으로 매염보조제 및 천연가죽의 합계 총 중량에 대하여 4wt%의 식물성 천연염료를 투입하여 25℃ 온도에서 180분 동안 드럼 공정을 수행하며,
상기 톱공정은 천연가죽의 총 중량에 대하여 2wt%의 식물성 천연염료 분말을 투입하여 55℃ 온도에서 20분 동안 공정을 수행하는 식물성 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 제조 방법.
A washing process for washing natural leather;
A pretreatment process of adjusting the pH of the natural leather by adding ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), an eggplant aid and a neutralization aid to the natural leather washed through the washing process;
a dyeing process of adding a first material group including a plant component, a second material group including a polymer, a natural vegetable dye and a mordant auxiliary to the natural leather;
a branching process of imparting flexibility to the natural leather by adding a third material group including an oil-based fatliquoring agent to the natural leather without exchanging the bath used in the dyeing process; and
In order to improve the color saturation of the natural leather, a top process of performing surface dyeing by adding the powder of the vegetable natural dye to the natural leather that has undergone the eggplant process;
including,
The first substance group includes gambier, mimosa and tara,
In the dyeing process, the first material group and the second material group are added, and the drum process is performed at a temperature of 25° C. for 40 minutes, and then 4wt% of a vegetable natural dye is added based on the total weight of the mordant auxiliary and the natural leather. to perform the drum process for 180 minutes at a temperature of 25 ℃,
The top process is a method of producing natural leather using a vegetable natural dye, wherein 2wt% of a vegetable natural dye powder is added based on the total weight of the natural leather and the process is performed at a temperature of 55°C for 20 minutes.
삭제delete 삭제delete 제 1항에 있어서,
상기 가지공정을 거친 천연가죽에 개미산을 투입하여 상기 제3물질군을 고착시키는 매염공정;
을 더 포함하는 식물성 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 제조 방법.
The method of claim 1,
A mordant process of fixing the third material group by adding formic acid to the natural leather that has undergone the branching process;
A method for producing natural leather using a vegetable natural dye further comprising a.
제 1항에 있어서,
상기 가지공정을 거친 천연가죽에 탈취제 또는 철분제거제를 투입하여 상기 천연가죽을 탈취하는 탈취공정;
을 더 포함하는 식물성 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 제조 방법.
The method of claim 1,
a deodorizing process of deodorizing the natural leather by adding a deodorant or iron remover to the natural leather that has undergone the branching process;
A method for producing natural leather using a vegetable natural dye further comprising a.
삭제delete 제 1항에 있어서,
상기 식물성 천연염료는,
메밀, 헤나, 인디고 또는 미로바란인 것을 특징으로 하는 식물성 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 제조 방법.
The method of claim 1,
The vegetable natural dye,
A method of producing natural leather using a vegetable natural dye, characterized in that it is buckwheat, henna, indigo or mirobaran.
제 1항에 있어서,
상기 제3물질군은,
올리브, 콩 및 옥수수 중 적어도 어느 하나에서 추출한 오일을 포함하는 식물성 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 제조 방법.
The method of claim 1,
The third group of substances is
A method for producing natural leather using a vegetable natural dye comprising oil extracted from at least one of olive, soybean and corn.
제 1항, 제 4항, 제 5항, 제 7항 및 제 8항 중 어느 한 항의 식물성 천연염료를 이용한 천연가죽의 제조 방법으로 제조된 천연가죽.
Claims 1, 4, 5, 7 and 8 of any one of claims, natural leather produced by the natural leather manufacturing method using a natural vegetable dye.
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