KR102301123B1 - Cosmetic composition comprising retiniol steblized by mixed antioxidant - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing retinol stabilized using a mixed antioxidant, and more specifically, to a cosmetic composition containing retinol and antioxidants, glucosyl rutin, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate, and ascorbic acid or derivatives thereof, so that there is no decrease in potency and no discoloration during long-term storage. In addition, the cosmetic composition effectively maintains the activity of retinol from light, temperature, and oxygen to maximize skin beauty effects such as increasing skin elasticity that retinol has.

Description

Cosmetic composition containing retinol stabilized using a mixed antioxidant {COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING RETINIOL STEBLIZED BY MIXED ANTIOXIDANT}

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing retinol stabilized using a mixed antioxidant. More specifically, by containing retinol and antioxidants glucosyl rutin, pentaerythrityltetra-di-t-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate, and ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof, there is no decrease in potency and no discoloration during long-term storage, It relates to a cosmetic composition that effectively maintains the activity of retinol from light, temperature, oxygen, etc., and maximizes the skin-beautifying effects such as wrinkle improvement that retinol has.

Human skin undergoes various physical and chemical changes during the aging process. The causes are largely divided into intrinsic aging and photo-aging, and studies on these have been actively conducted. Free radicals are activated and caused by UV rays, stress, disease states, environmental factors, wounds, and aging. and accelerate aging.

More specifically, lipids, proteins, polysaccharides, nucleic acids, etc., which are major constituents of the skin, are oxidized to destroy skin cells and tissues, resulting in skin aging. In particular, the oxidation of proteins cuts the connective tissues of the skin, such as collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin, proteoglycan, and fibronectin, resulting in severe hyperinflammatory reaction and disruption of skin elasticity. And if it gets worse, it leads to mutations, cancer induction, and decreased immune function due to DNA mutations.

Therefore, it is necessary to protect the cell membrane by eliminating free radicals generated during the body's metabolic process, UV irradiation, and free radicals mediated by inflammatory reactions, and to regenerate damaged cells through active metabolism to proliferate the cells. can recover quickly and maintain healthy skin.

In aging, not only these free radicals but also an enzyme called Matrix Metalloproteinase (MMP), a collagen degrading enzyme, are involved. That is, the synthesis and degradation of extracellular matrix, such as collagen, is appropriately regulated in vivo, but as aging progresses, collagen synthesis decreases, and the expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP), an enzyme that degrades collagen, is promoted, so that the skin The elasticity of the skin is reduced and wrinkles are formed. In addition, these decomposing enzymes are also activated by ultraviolet irradiation.

Retinoids used in skin protection cosmetics include retinol, retinal, retinyl acetate, a type of retinyl ester, retinyl propionate, retinyl linoleate, and retinyl palmitate. Among them, retinol is an endogenous compound naturally present in the human body and is an essential substance for the differentiation and growth of epithelial tissues. In addition, retinol has a very high safety compared to retinoids such as retinoic acid, so it can be said that it is suitable as a raw material for skin improvement cosmetics.

However, although retinol has excellent skin wrinkle improvement and prevention effects and acne healing effects, when prescribed to a product, discoloration or discoloration occurs due to light, heat, temperature, moisture, etc. It has problems such as a decrease in potency as an active ingredient. Therefore, various studies have been conducted to stabilize retinol from light, heat, temperature, moisture, and time.

Looking at the examples of attempts to stabilize retinol so far, a patent for an oil-in-water (O/W) type emulsifying formulation in which retinoic acid is stabilized using BHT, dl-α tocopherol, and EDTA, a chelating agent, as an oil-soluble oxidizing agent (USA) Patent No. 3,906,108), there is a patent for an oil-in-water emulsion formulation in which retinol is stabilized using tocopherol and citric acid, which are oil-soluble oxidizing agents (U.S. Patent No. 4,247,547), and retinol using oil-soluble oxidizing agents BHT and BHA; There is a patent for a water-in-oil type emulsion formulation stabilized with retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate (US Pat. No. 4,826,828), and retinol is stabilized using antioxidants BHA, ascorbic acid, and tocopheryllinoleate. There is a water-in-oil type patent (U.S. Patent No. 4,720,353), and an oil-in-water emulsion composition containing one or more water-soluble antioxidants, one or more oil-soluble antioxidants and a chelating agent to improve the chemical stability of retinoids (European Patent No. 0440, 398 BI) was published, and in European Patent No. 1568106 A1, a chelating agent and oil-soluble antioxidant, a chelating agent and a water-soluble antioxidant as a system for stabilizing retinoids, an antioxidant and free base type simultaneously present in the oil and water phases of emulsions An oil-in-water emulsion composition containing imidazole of

In the case of the above various patents, it can be seen that in order to stabilize retinol or a derivative thereof, the type of oil, water-soluble antioxidant or chelating agent is changed and used according to the emulsion type.

As such, various antioxidants are used to stabilize retinol, and BHT (Butylated hydroxytoluene) and BHA (Butylated hydroxyanisole) are the most used. As radical scavengers, these substances have antioxidant action by strongly inhibiting radical chain reaction. In general, the generation of radicals that cause discoloration, discoloration, deterioration in the efficacy of active ingredients (lower potency), and lower emulsion stability of cosmetics are promoted by metal ions. It is possible to increase the efficacy of antioxidants.

However, most antioxidants including BHT used in cosmetics have many problems in terms of stability. In general, an ideal antioxidant should be stable and effective in a wide range of acidity (pH), should not cause discoloration or odor by any reaction, and should have good compatibility with other cosmetic ingredients without irritating the skin. . In addition, it must have effective antioxidant ability against substances that are easily oxidized by being very unstable to light, temperature, heat, and oxygen, such as retinol.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing retinol stabilized using a mixed antioxidant. More specifically, by containing retinol and mixed antioxidants glucosyl rutin, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate, ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof, there is no decrease in potency and no discoloration during long-term storage, It relates to a cosmetic composition that effectively maintains the activity of retinol from light, temperature, oxygen, etc.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition containing retinol stabilized using a mixed antioxidant.

Preferably, the mixed antioxidant includes glucosylrutin, pentaerythrityltetra-di-t-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate and ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof.

Also preferably, the cosmetic composition may be for improving skin elasticity.

Also preferably, the retinol may be contained in an amount of 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Also preferably, each of the glucosyl rutin, the pentaerythrityltetra-di-t-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate and the ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof is contained in an amount of 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. can

Also preferably, the cosmetic composition is selected from the group consisting of solutions, suspensions, emulsions, pastes, packs, lotions, powders, soaps, surfactant-containing cleansing oils, powder foundations, emulsion foundations, wax foundations, and sprays. It is characterized by having a formulation.

According to the cosmetic composition containing retinol stabilized using a mixed antioxidant, the present invention exhibits the effect of improving skin elasticity.

All technical terms used in the present invention, unless otherwise defined, have the following definitions and have the meanings as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art in the relevant field of the present invention. In addition, although preferred methods and samples are described herein, similar or equivalent ones are also included in the scope of the present invention.

The term "about" means 30, 25, 20, 15, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, means an amount, level, value, number, frequency, percent, dimension, size, amount, weight or length varying by 4, 3, 2 or 1%.

Throughout this specification, unless the context requires otherwise, the terms "comprises" and "comprising" include the steps or elements presented, or groups of steps or elements, but any other step or element, or It is to be understood that a step or group of elements is not excluded.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing retinol stabilized using a mixed antioxidant.

Sanga retinol is characterized in that it contains 0.001 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The mixed antioxidant is a mixture of glucosylrutin, pentaerythrityltetra-di-t-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate and ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof.

Glucosyl rutin is a component made by glucosylation of a component called rutin, known as vitamin P, and is an antioxidant that has a similar effect to rutin, which is generally known for its excellent antioxidant effect. Glucosyl rutin is preferably contained in an amount of 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Pentaerythrityltetra-di-t-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate is a phenolic antioxidant that has a structure similar to BHT, but has a molecular weight of 1178, which is much higher than BHT (molecular weight: 220), and has low volatility at high temperature, so it is stable at high temperatures. Unlike BHT, which is converted to Stilbenquinones during photooxidation, it is converted to non-covalent Bisquinonemethide, which has almost no color even when photooxidized. and has the effect of inhibiting discoloration. The pentaerythrityltetra-di-t-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate is preferably contained in an amount of 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Ascorbic Acid is a vitamin C component known as a powerful antioxidant. It is a 6-carbon lactone component that exhibits various effects such as antioxidant, collagen biosynthesis promotion, and skin whitening effect. According to one embodiment of the present invention, the ascorbic acid may be a derivative thereof. The derivatives of the ascorbic acid are 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, potassium ascorbyl borate, chitosan ascorbate, magnesium ascorbate, zinc ascorbate, sodium ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbate, diethyl ascorbic acid, niacinamide. Ascorbate, ascorbyl methoxycinnamate, sodium isoascorbate, glyceryl ascorbate, ethyl ascorbyl ether, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, It may be sodium ascorbyl phosphate, etc., and preferably, the ascorbic acid derivative may be used alone or in two or more types. The ascorbic acid or its derivative is preferably contained in an amount of 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight based on the cosmetic composition.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, the mixed antioxidant is mixed with glucosyl rutin, pentaerythrityltetra-di-t-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate and ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof in a weight ratio of 1:1:1. containing mixtures.

Ingredients included in the cosmetic composition of the present invention may include ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions in addition to the active ingredient as an active ingredient, for example, conventional adjuvants such as stabilizers, solubilizers, vitamins, pigments and fragrances, and carrier.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be prepared in any formulation conventionally prepared in the art, for example, solution, suspension, emulsion, paste, gel, cream, lotion, powder, soap, surfactant-containing cleansing , oil, powder foundation, emulsion foundation, wax foundation, pack, massage cream, spray, etc., but is not limited thereto. More specifically, it may be prepared in the form of a flexible lotion, a nourishing lotion, a nourishing cream, a massage cream, an essence, an eye cream, a cleansing cream, a cleansing foam, a cleansing water, a pack, a spray, or a powder.

When the formulation of the present invention is a paste, cream or gel, animal oil, vegetable oil, wax, paraffin, starch, tracanth, cellulose derivative, polyethylene glycol, silicone, bentonite, silica, talc or zinc oxide may be used as a carrier component. can

When the formulation of the present invention is a solution or emulsion, a solvent, solubilizer or emulsifier is used as a carrier component, for example, water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylglycol oil, glycerol fatty esters, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol or sorbitan.

When the formulation of the present invention is a suspension, as a carrier component, a liquid diluent such as water, ethanol or propylene glycol, a suspending agent such as ethoxylated isostearyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene sorbitol ester and polyoxyethylene sorbitan ester, and microcrystals Adult cellulose, aluminum metahydroxide, bentonite, agar or tracanth may be used.

When the formulation of the present invention is a powder or a spray, lactose, talc, silica, aluminum hydroxide, calcium silicate or polyamide powder may be used as a carrier component, and in particular, in the case of a spray, additional chlorofluorohydrocarbon, propane /may contain propellants such as butane or dimethyl ether.

When the formulation of the present invention is a surfactant-containing cleansing agent, aliphatic alcohol sulfate, aliphatic alcohol ether sulfate, sulfosuccinic acid monoester, isethionate, imidazolinium derivative, methyl taurate, sarcosinate, fatty acid amide ether as carrier components Sulfate, alkylamidobetaine, aliphatic alcohol, fatty acid glyceride, fatty acid diethanolamide, vegetable oil, lanolin derivative or ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid ester may be used.

When the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a soap, a surfactant-containing cleansing formulation, or a surfactant-free cleansing formulation, it may be applied to the skin and then wiped off, removed, or washed off with water. As a specific example, the soap is liquid soap, powder soap, solid soap, and oil soap, the surfactant-containing cleansing formulation is a cleansing foam, cleansing water, cleansing towel, and cleansing pack, and the surfactant-free cleansing formulation is a cleansing cream , cleansing lotion, cleansing water, and cleansing gel, but not limited thereto.

On the other hand, the makeup method of the present invention refers to all makeup methods using the cosmetic composition of the present invention. That is, all methods known in the art using the cosmetic composition belong to the cosmetic method of the present invention.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be used alone or in combination, or may be used in combination with other cosmetic compositions other than the present invention. In addition, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used according to a conventional method of use, and the number of times of use can be varied according to the skin condition or taste of the user.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail through examples. These examples are only for illustrating the present invention in more detail, and it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the scope of the present invention is not limited by these examples according to the gist of the present invention. .

Formulation Example 1: Preparation of a cosmetic composition containing retinol stabilized using a mixed antioxidant

Examples 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 of lotion formulations were prepared according to the composition shown in Table 1 (unit: wt%).

division ingredient Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 A glycerin 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 1,3-butylene glycol 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 EDTA-2Na 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 Purified water to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 B retinol 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 cetostearyl alcohol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Glyceryl Stearate 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 microcrystallin 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 squalane 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 liquid paraffin 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 trioctanoin 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 polysorbate 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 Sorbitan Stearate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 cyclomethicone 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 fragrance, preservative appropriate amount appropriate amount appropriate amount appropriate amount appropriate amount C glucosyl rutin 0.5 0.5 - - Pentaerythrityltetra-di-t-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate 0.5 0.5 - - Ascorbic Acid 0.5 0.5 -

<Production method of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4>

1) The phase A component was uniformly mixed while heating to 70° C. to prepare an aqueous part.

2) The B-phase component was uniformly mixed while heating to 70° C. to prepare an oily part.

3) The oil phase B part was added to the A phase award part and homomixed at 4,000 rpm for 6 minutes.

4) The phase C was added and homomixed at 4,000 rpm for 3 minutes.

5) The mixture of 4) was cooled to room temperature.

Experimental Example 1: Measurement of skin elasticity improvement effect

In this experimental example, in order to examine the skin elasticity improvement effect of the cosmetic compositions according to Experimental Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4, 50 women in their 30s to 40s with reduced elasticity were measured. After dividing into 5 groups of 10 people, 1 group received Formulation Example 1, 2 groups received Comparative Example 1, 3 groups had Comparative Example 2, 4 groups had Comparative Example 3, and 5 groups had Comparative Example 4 applied to the face. After applying twice daily in the morning and in the evening for 12 weeks, skin elasticity was measured after 12 weeks. The elasticity of the face was measured using a cutometer SEM575 (MPA 580, Courage+Khazaka GmbH, Germany), and R2 (biological elasticity), which indicates skin elasticity, was measured before and after application, and the improvement (%) was evaluated. . The results are shown in Table 2 below, and the results are average values of the degree of improvement for each group.

experimental product Skin elasticity improvement (%) Example 1 23.5 Comparative Example 1 11.5 Comparative Example 2 12.2 Comparative Example 3 13.2 Comparative Example 4 4.5

As shown in Table 2, it was confirmed that Example 1 containing the mixed antioxidant was superior to the elasticity improvement effect of Comparative Examples 1-4.

Experimental Example 2: Test to confirm discoloration of the formulation

The Examples and Comparative Examples of Table 1 were placed in an opaque glass container in a constant temperature bath maintained at 45° C. and stored for 8 weeks, and then the degree of separation and discoloration was comparatively measured, and the results are shown in Table 3 below. At this time, the degree of product separation and discoloration was evaluated by classifying it into the following 6 grades:

<Product color discoloration evaluation criteria>

0: No change, 1: Very slight discoloration, 2: Slight discoloration, 3: Slightly severe discoloration, 4: Severe discoloration, 5: Extremely severe discoloration.

Elapsed time (weeks) Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 2 0 0.5 0.5 1.0 2.0 4 0 1.0 1.2 1.5 3.0 6 0.5 2.0 2.0 2.0 4.0 8 0.5 2.5 3.0 2.5 5.0

As shown in Table 3, it was confirmed that Example 1 containing the mixed antioxidant was less discolored than Comparative Examples 1-4.

Experimental Example 3: Retinol potency test of formulations

After the compositions of Examples and Comparative Examples were stored at 45° C. for 4 weeks, the retinol content in each content was analyzed by high-performance liquid chromatography. Each content was diluted to a concentration of 20 mg/mL in a mixed solution of methanol and ethyl acetate (50 weight each), followed by gradient elution with tetrahydrofuran/acetonitrile (5:95) and 0.05N ammonium acetate solution. A reversed-phase column (C-8) was used, and the content of retinol was analyzed at 340 nm. Based on the content of retinol immediately after preparation of each content as 100, the retinol content after storage for 1 week and 4 weeks was calculated. The test results are as shown in Table 4 below.

Elapsed time Example 1 Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 Comparative Example 4 2 99.52 95.66 94.46 92.50 80.20 4 98.48 87.55 88.24 86.50 75.52 6 97.59 78.69 79.20 75.55 68.20

As shown in Table 4, it was confirmed that Example 1 containing the mixed antioxidant maintained the potency than Comparative Examples 1,2,3,4.

As described above in detail a specific part of the present invention, for those of ordinary skill in the art, this specific description is only a preferred embodiment, and it is clear that the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto. Accordingly, the substantial scope of the present invention will be defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims (6)

A cosmetic composition containing retinol stabilized using a mixed antioxidant, wherein the mixed antioxidant is 1: glucosyl rutin, pentaerythrityltetra-di-t-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate and ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof It is mixed in a weight ratio of 1:1,
The derivatives of the ascorbic acid are 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, potassium ascorbyl borate, chitosan ascorbate, magnesium ascorbate, zinc ascorbate, sodium ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbate, diethyl ascorbic acid, niacinamide. Ascorbate, ascorbyl methoxycinnamate, sodium isoascorbate, glyceryl ascorbate, ethyl ascorbyl ether, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and A cosmetic composition, characterized in that it is one selected from the group consisting of sodium ascorbyl phosphate. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is for improving skin elasticity. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the retinol is contained in an amount of 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. According to claim 1, wherein each of the glucosyl rutin, the pentaerythrityltetra-di-t-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate, and the ascorbic acid or its derivative is contained in an amount of 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A cosmetic composition, characterized in that The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is selected from the group consisting of solutions, suspensions, emulsions, pastes, packs, lotions, powders, soaps, surfactant-containing cleansing oils, powder foundations, emulsion foundations, wax foundations, and sprays. A cosmetic composition, characterized in that it has a dosage form. delete