KR102276764B1 - Use of oleogels in uv absorber compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention discloses the use of oleogel (a) for increasing the sun protection index of a sunscreen comprising at least one organic or inorganic UV filter (b).

Description

USE OF OLEOGELS IN UV ABSORBER COMPOSITIONS

Most modern skin-care products are based on emulsions (creams, lotions and milks). Emulsions are mixtures of oil or oil soluble substances and water or water soluble ingredients and represent the most important product type of skin care products.

In addition, there still exist only oily skin-care products, which are preferably recommended for problem skin and are therefore used in dermatological cosmetics. In terms of applicability, oily skin surfaces leave an uncomfortable and unpleasant feeling. This problem has been addressed with the development of emulsions that increase the penetration of lipids into the skin and reduce the concentration of oils and lipids in the product. However, the presence of water in the formulation poses a new problem: it is necessary to preserve the aqueous phase of the emulsion, some components are water sensitive, which is non-dispersible to stabilize the emulsion against the long-term effects of temperature and storage. .

This problem has been successfully solved by using uninteresting ingredients and additional additives such as mineral oils and waxes. Many of these additives are not tolerated by sensitive skin. Individuals with neurodermal skin will not tolerate long-term use of ethoxylated alcohols, for example, among the most widely used emulsifiers. Allergy sufferers have problems with appropriate preservatives and the like.

Solutions for this particular group are even more important, especially since individuals with skin barrier disorders depend on physiological lipids in high dose problems. These lipids are still based on the application of an appropriate oil, a minimum content of additives and convenient application characteristics. For this purpose, oleogels, also known as lipogels, are recommended.

Oleogels are semi-solid, translucent or transparent systems containing so-called gel formers and oils or lipids as discontinuous (stationary) phases. The gel former creates a three-dimensional mesh in which the oil is immobilized. This typical structure can be compared to a liquid-impregnated sponge, which exhibits a gel former and is therefore capable of absorbing large amounts of lipids. Unlike hydrogels, oleogels are generally free of water.

The sunscreen composition comprising the oil phase has a significant effect on the properties of the UV filter, i.e. _{a change in both the wavelength of maximum absorbance (λ max} ) and molar absorption (ε) can be observed for many sunscreen systems. .

Thus, oleogel can be advantageously used in sunscreens. Surprisingly, it has been found that the use of oleogel in sunscreens containing one or more UV filters will increase the sun protection index of the sunscreen composition.

Accordingly, the present invention relates to the use of oleogel (a) for increasing the sun protection index of a sunscreen comprising at least one organic or inorganic UV filter (b).

The stationary phase (oil or lipid) of the oleogel (a) is preferably

(sp ₁ ) Guerbet alcohol,

(sp ₂ ) esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₄ fatty acids with linear C ₃ -C _{24 alcohols,}

(sp ₃ ) esters of branched C ₆ -C ₁₃ carboxylic acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols,

(sp ₄ ) esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₄ fatty acids with branched alcohols,

(sp ₅ ) esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols,

(sp ₆ ) esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols,

(sp ₇ ) triglycerides based on _{C 6} -C _{10 fatty acids,}

(sp ₈ ) liquid mono-/di-/tri-glyceride mixtures based on _{C 6} -C _{18 fatty acids,}

(sp ₉ ) _{esters of C 6} -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids,

(sp ₁₀ ) _{esters of C 2} -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxy groups,

(sp ₁₁ ) vegetable oil,

(sp ₁₂ ) branched primary alcohols,

(sp ₁₃ ) substituted cyclohexane,

(sp ₁₄ ) linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates,

(sp ₁₅ ) guerbet carbonate,

(sp ₁₆ ) esters of benzoic acid with linear and/or branched C ₆ -C _{22 alcohols,}

(sp ₁₇ ) linear or branched, symmetric or asymmetric dialkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms,

(sp ₁₈ ) silicone oil,

(sp ₁₉ ) aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons,

(sp ₂₀ ) monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 3 to 24 carbon atoms,

(sp ₂₁ ) isopropyl myristate,

(sp ₂₂ ) isononanoic acid C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl ester,

(sp ₂₃ ) stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester,

(sp ₂₄ ) cetyl oleate,

(sp ₂₅ ) glycerol tricaprylate,

(sp ₂₆ ) coconut fatty alcohol caprinate/caprylate,

(sp ₂₇ ) n-butyl stearate,

(sp ₂₈ ) dicarboxylic acid esters,

(sp ₂₉ ) diol esters;

(sp ₃₀ ) polyols and

(sp ₃₁ ) divalent and/or trivalent metal salts

is selected from

Most preferably, the stationary phase of oleogel (a) is selected from dibutyl adipate diethylhexyl carbonate.

The gel-forming agent of the oleogel (a) according to the present invention is preferably

(gf ₁ ) Stearalkonium Hectorite (Bentonite),

(gf ₂ ) gelatin,

(gf ₃ ) silica,

(gf ₄ ) montmorillonite,

(gf ₅ ) monoglycerides and diglycerides;

(gf ₆ ) polysaccharide,

(gf ₇ ) pectin and

(gf ₈ ) certain polymers, preferably polyethylene

is selected from

Most preferably, the gel former of oleogel (a) is selected from stearalkonium hectorite in combination with propylene carbonate.

The UV filter (b) according to the invention is preferably

(b ₁ ) a triazine derivative;

(b ₂ ) a hydroxybenzophenone derivative;

(b ₃ ) a methoxydibenzoylmethane derivative;

(b ₄ ) substituted acrylates,

(b ₅ ) a cinnamic acid derivative;

(b ₆ ) a salicylic acid derivative;

(b ₇ ) a benzotriazole derivative, and

(b ₈ ) inorganic pigment

is selected from

More preferably, the triazine derivative (b ₁ ) is selected from compounds of the formula TR1.

<Formula TR1>

In the above formula,

의 라디칼이고, R ₁ and R ₂ are each independently of each other C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl, C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl, or formula

is a radical of

, TR1b

, 또는 TR1c

의 라디칼이고,A ₁ is the formula TR1a

, TR1b

, or TR1c

is a radical of

R ₃ is hydrogen or C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl,

R ₄ is hydrogen, M or C ₁ -C ₅ alkyl,

R ₅ is C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl,

M is a metal cation.

The most preferred representative of the triazine derivative (b ₁ ) is bis-ethylhexyloxy methoxy-phenyl triazine (BEMT) corresponding to the following formula TR2.

<Formula TR2>

Preference is also given to _{triazine derivatives (b 1} ) corresponding to compounds of the formula TR3:

<Formula TR3>

In the above formula,

R ₆ , R ₇ and R ₈ are independently of each other C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₆ -C ₁₀ aryl, heteroaryl (optionally substituted),

X is O or NR ₉ ,

R ₉ is hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₆ -C ₁₀ aryl, heteroaryl (optionally substituted).

The most preferred representative is ethylhexyl triazone (EHT) corresponding to the following formula TR4 or diethylhexyl butamido triazone (DBT) corresponding to the following formula TR5.

<Formula TR4>

<Formula TR5>

Preferably, the hydroxybenzophenone derivative (b ₂ ) is an amino-substituted hydroxybenzophenone corresponding to the following formula BP1.

<Formula BP1>

In the above formula,

R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ are independently of each other hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₂ -C ₁₀ alkenyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkenyl, wherein the substituents R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached may form a 5-membered or 6-membered ring,

R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ are independently of each other C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₂ -C ₁₀ alkenyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkenyl, C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkoxy, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkoxycarbonyl, C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkylamino, C ₁ -C ₁₂ dialkylamino, aryl, heteroaryl (optionally substituted), the substituents confer solubility in water, nitrile groups, carboxyl selected from the group consisting of late, sulfonate and ammonium radicals,

X is hydrogen, COOR ₁₄ or CONR ₁₅ R ₁₆ ,

R ₁₄ to R ₁₆ are hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₂ -C ₁₀ alkenyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkenyl, or -(YO) _o -Z, C ₆ -C ₁₀ aryl,

Y is -(CH ₂ ) ₂ -, -(CH ₂ ) ₃ -, -(CH ₂ ) ₄ - or -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -,

Z is -CH ₂ -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₃ or -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₃ ,

m is 0 to 3,

n is 0 to 4,

o is 1 to 20.

A more preferred representative of the amino-substituted hydroxybenzophenone (b ₂ ) is diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB) corresponding to the formula BP2 below.

<Formula BP2>

A further preferred representative of (b ₂ ) is benzophenone-3 (B-3) corresponding to formula BP3.

<Formula BP3>

A preferred representative of the methoxydibenzoylmethane derivative (b ₃ ) is butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane (BMDBM) corresponding to the following formula DM1.

<Formula DM1>

A preferred representative of the substituted acrylate (b ₄ ) is octocrylene (OCR) corresponding to the formula AC1:

<Formula AC1>

A preferred representative of the cinnamic acid derivative (b ₅ ) is ethylhexylmethoxy cinnamate (EHMC) corresponding to the following formula CA1.

<Formula CA1>

A preferred representative of the salicylic acid derivative (b ₆ ) is ethylhexyl salicylate corresponding to the following formula ES1.

<Formula ES1>

A preferred representative of the benzotriazole derivative (b ₇ ) is dromethrazole trisiloxane corresponding to the following formula BT1.

<Formula BT1>

Preferably, the inorganic pigment (b ₈ ) is selected from oil-dispersed TiO _{2 .}

More preferably, the UV filters (b ₁ ) - (b ₈ ) are used as mixtures.

Oil-soluble or oil-miscible UV filters used commercially worldwide are listed in Table 1 below. All of these can be used in any combination within the oleogel formulation. Concentrations may also vary depending on the status of registration in different regions.

Examples of mixtures of two UV filters preferably used according to the invention are:

(Mix01) compound (TR2) and compound (CA1),

(Mix02) compound (TR2) and compound (TR4);

(Mix03) compound (TR2) and compound (TR5);

(Mix04) compound (TR2) and compound (AC1),

(Mix05) compound (BP1) and compound (CA1);

(Mix06) compound (BP1) and compound (TR4);

(Mix07) compound (BP1) and compound (TR5);

(Mix08) compound (BP1) and compound (AC1);

(Mix09) compound (TR2) and compound (BP1),

(Mix10) compound (TR4) and compound (CA1),

(Mix11) compound (TR5) and compound (CA1),

(Mix12) compound (DM1) and compound (TR4);

(Mix13) compound (DM1) and compound (TR5),

(Mix14) compound (DM1) and compound (AC1);

(Mix15) oil-dispersed TiO ₂ and compound (TR2),

(Mix16) oil-dispersed TiO ₂ and compound (BP1),

(Mix17) oil-dispersed TiO ₂ and compound (TR4),

(Mix18) oil-dispersed TiO ₂ and compound (TR5),

(Mix19) oil-dispersed TiO ₂ and compound (CA1),

(Mix20) oil-dispersed TiO ₂ and compound (AC1),

(Mix21) oil-dispersed ZnO and compound (TR2),

(Mix22) oil-dispersed ZnO and compound (TR2),

(Mix23) oil-dispersed ZnO and compound (BP1),

(Mix24) oil-dispersed ZnO and compound (TR4),

(Mix25) oil-dispersed ZnO and compound (TR5),

(Mix26) oil-dispersed TiO ₂ and oil-dispersed ZnO,

(Mix27) compound (DM1) and compound (AC1);

(Mix28) compound (DM1) and compound (TR2).

Examples of mixtures of three UV filters preferably used according to the invention are:

(Mix29): compound (DM1) and compound (AC1), and compound (TR2),

(Mix30): compound (DM1) and compound (AC1), and compound (TR4),

(Mix31): compound (DM1) and compound (AC1), and compound (TR5),

(Mix32): compound (CA1) and compound (BP2), and compound (TR4),

(Mix33): compound (CA1) and compound (BP2), and compound (TR5),

(Mix34): compound (CA1) and compound (BP2), and compound (TR2),

(Mix35): compound (DM1) and compound (BP3), and compound (AC1),

(Mix36): compound (CA1) and compound (BP2), and compound (BP3),

(Mix37): compound (TR2) and compound (TR4), and compound (BP2).

Examples of mixtures of four UV filters preferably used according to the invention are:

(Mix38): compound (DM1) and compound (AC1), and compound (TR2), and compound (TR4),

(Mix39): compound (DM1) and compound (AC1), and compound (TR2), and compound (TR5),

(Mix40): compound (CA1) and compound (BP2), and compound (TR2), and compound (TR4),

(Mix41): compound (CA1) and compound (BP2), and compound (TR2), and compound (TR5),

(Mix42): compound (CA1) and compound (BP2), and compound (BP3), and compound (TR2),

(Mix43): compound (CA1) and compound (BP2), and compound (TR2), and compound (TR5).

Examples of mixtures of five UV filters preferably used according to the invention are:

(Mix44): compound (CA1) and compound (BP2), and compound (TR2), and compound (TR4), and compound (ES1),

(Mix45): compound (CA1) and compound (BP2), and compound (TR2), and compound (TR5), and compound (ES1),

(Mix46): compound (DM1) and compound (AC1), and compound (TR2), and compound (TR4), and compound (ES1),

(Mix47): compound (CA1) and compound (AC1), and compound (TR2), and compound (TR5), and compound (ES1).

Most preferably, a mixture of (Mix37) comprising compound (TR2) and compound (TR4) and compound (BP2) is used.

Most preferably, the present invention

(a) (gf ₁ ) an oleogel formed from stearalkonium hectorite, and a stationary phase selected from dibutyl adipate and diethylhexyl carbonate, and

(b) (Mix 37) comprising compound (TR2) and compound (TR4) and compound (BP2)

It relates to the use of a combination of

Oils as representatives for the discontinuous phase are for example (sp ₁ ) Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, (sp ₂ ) linear C ₆ -C ₂₄ esters of fatty acids with linear C ₃ -C ₂₄ alcohols, (sp ₃ ) esters of branched C ₆ -C ₁₃ carboxylic acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols, (sp ₄ ) with linear C ₆ -C ₂₄ fatty acids Branched alcohols, especially esters of 2-ethylhexanol, (sp ₅ ) esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, especially dioctyl maleate, (sp ₆ ) linear and/or Esters of branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (eg propylene glycol, dimer diols or trimer triols) and/or Guerbet alcohols, (sp ₇ ) _{triglycerides based on C 6} -C ₁₀ fatty acids, (sp ₈ ) Liquid mono-/di-/tri-glyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C _{18 fatty acids, (sp 9} ) _{esters of C 6} -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, (sp ₁₀ ) _{esters of C 2} -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxy groups, (sp ₁₁ ) vegetable oils liquid components of, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach seed oil and coconut oil, (sp ₁₂ ) branched primary alcohols, (sp ₁₃ ) substituted cyclohexane, (sp ₁₄ ) linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonate, (sp ₁₅ ) Guerbet carbonate, (sp ₁₆ ) benzoic acid and linear and/or branched C ₆ esters of -C ₂₂ alcohols (eg Finsolv ^® TN), (sp ₁₇ ) having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 24 carbon atoms Linear or branched, symmetric or asymmetric dialkyl ethers, for example di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-undecyl ether, di-tert- Butyl ether, diisopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, isopentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl-n-octyl ether, (sp ₁₈ ) silicone oil, (sp ₁₉ ) aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, (sp ₂₀ ) monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 3 to 24 carbon atoms. This group of substances is a fatty acid having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, for example caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid. acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petrocelic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical grade mixtures (obtained, for example, in the depressurization of natural fats and oils, in the reduction of aldehydes from the oxosynthesis of Roelen or in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids) and alcohols, such as isopropyl alcohol, capro alcohol , caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohols, petrosellinyl alcohol, linoyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and technical grade mixtures thereof (e.g., obtained as monomer fraction in the high-pressure hydrogenation of aldehydes from the oxosynthesis of fat and oil-based technical grade methyl esters or of lorylene and in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols), (sp ₂₁ ) isopropyl preliminarily state, (sp ₂₂ ) isononanoic acid C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl ester, (sp ₂₃ ) stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, (sp ₂₄ ) cetyl oleate, (sp ₂₅ ) glycerol tricaprylate, (sp _{26 )} ) coconut fatty alcohol caprinate/caprylate, (sp ₂₇ ) n-butyl stearate, (sp ₂₈ ) dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di(2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecyl acetate, (sp ₂₉ ) diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate) ), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol dipelagonate, butanediol diisostearate and neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, (sp ₃₀ ) polyols such as ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol; (sp ₃₁ ) divalent and/or trivalent metal salts (alkaline earth metals, in particular Al ³⁺ ) of at least one alkyl carboxylic acid.

Preferred oil components of the oleogel used in the present invention are dibutyl adipate and diethylhexyl carbonate.

The oil component can be used, for example, in an amount of from 1 to 60% by weight, in particular from 5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 10 to 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The respective formation of the oleogel is carried out according to operating conditions known to the person skilled in the art. In particular, reference will be made to the following examples.

In particular, depending on the composition envisaged, the UV absorber(s) (b) may be added to the oleogel prior to preparation of the oleogel of substantially uniform appearance. It is also possible to add the UV absorber(s) (b) to the preformed stable oleogel according to the invention with stirring, so that the UV absorber(s) (b) is distributed in the oleogel.

Needless to say, the person skilled in the art will know that taking into account the characteristics of the UV absorber(s) used, the operating conditions, in particular the temperature, of the process should be adjusted so as not to possibly adversely affect the properties of the active ingredient(s). .

Finally, the subject of the present invention is

(a) a stable oleogel and

(b) at least one organic or inorganic UV filter

It relates to a stable cosmetic composition comprising a.

The sunscreen composition according to the invention is particularly useful for the protection of organic substances sensitive to ultraviolet light, in particular for the protection of human and animal skin and hair against the action of UV radiation. These UV filter combinations are thus suitable as photoprotective agents in cosmetic, pharmaceutical and veterinary preparations.

The cosmetic preparations may also comprise, in addition to the UV absorber combinations according to the invention, one or more further UV protective agents of the following substance class:

p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, 3-imidazol-4-yl acrylic acid and esters, benzofuran derivatives, polymeric UV absorbers, cinnamic acid derivatives, camphor derivatives, menthyl o-aminobenzoate, merocyanine derivatives , or an encapsulated UV absorber.

See "Sunscreens", Eds. N.J. Lowe, N.A. Shaath, Marcel Dekker, Inc., New York and Basle or in Cosmetics & Toiletries (107), 50ff (1992) can also be used as additional UV protective substances.

Photoprotective agents shown in Table 2 below are particularly preferred:

Also, BEMT (Tinosorb S, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxy encapsulated in a polymer matrix such as PMMA as described in IP.com Journal (2009), 9(1B), 17) Phenyl triazine) may also be used as additional UV protection substances.

The following compounds can also be used as additional UV protective substances:

Merocyanine derivatives as described in WO 2004/006878:

및 (B)

(A)

and (B)

(A) and (B) may be in E- or Z-configuration.

Each of the above-mentioned photoprotective agents, in particular those indicated as being preferred in the table above, can be used in admixture with the UV absorber combinations according to the invention. In this regard, it will be interpreted that it is also possible to use, in addition to the UV absorber combinations according to the invention, more than one additional photoprotectant, for example 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 further photoprotectants. It is preferred that the mixing ratio of the UV absorber/additional photoprotective agent according to the invention is used in a range of 1:99 to 99:1, especially 1:95 to 95:1, preferably 10:90 to 90:10 by weight. Do. Of particular interest is a mixing ratio of 20:80 to 80:20, especially 40:60 to 60:40, preferably approximately 50:50. Such mixtures can be used in particular to improve solubility.

Suitable mixtures can be used particularly advantageously in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

For example, the cosmetic composition comprises, for example, 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, of the UV absorber combination according to the invention and at least one cosmetically suitable adjuvant, In particular, 0.5 to 10% by weight is contained.

The cosmetic composition can be prepared by physically mixing the UV absorber and the adjuvant using conventional methods, for example by simply stirring the individual components together, in particular already known cosmetic UV absorbers, for example OMC, in particular salicylic acid isooctyl ester. It can be prepared by using the dissolution properties of UV absorbers can be used, for example, without further treatment.

The compositions according to the invention also contain as further adjuvants and additives, mild surfactants, superfat agents, pearlescent waxes, consistency modifiers, thickeners, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, stabilizers, biogenic active ingredients, deodorants active ingredients, anti-dandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, antioxidants, hydrophobic agents, preservatives, insect repellents, self-tanning agents, solubilizers, perfume oils, colorants, bacteria-inhibiting agents, and the like.

The cosmetic formulations according to the invention are contained in a wide variety of cosmetic formulations. For example, in particular the following agents are considered: skin-care agents, skin-tanning agents, whitening agents or insect-repellent agents.

The cosmetic preparation according to the invention is characterized by excellent protection of human skin against the damaging effects of sunlight.

The invention will now be illustrated with the aid of examples, which should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention under any circumstances.

In the context below, except where otherwise specified, the percentages indicated are percentages by weight.

Example

Example 1: Sun Protection Index of Oleogel - Effect of Oil Polarity of Sunscreen Formulations on Its Sun Protection Index

Oleogels of certain UV absorber compositions that differed in emollient polarity were prepared. In the first trial, six formulations with different oils were subjected to in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) measurements. They all exhibited extremely high SPF-values combined with very high variability, which made meaningful evaluations impossible.

Using the same UV absorber composition, two oils were selected and the gel-former concentration varied from zero to the concentration used in the first study and also the intermediate concentration, resulting in six different samples. Again, the formulation was sent for in vivo SPF measurement.

As oils, dibutyl adipate and diethylhexyl carbonate (stationary phase) were used, the properties of which are listed in Table EX1. The results are summarized in Table EX2 and complete information for the six formulations is presented in Table EX3.

<Table EX1>

The smaller the interfacial tension of oil to water [1], the higher the polarity. This was related to the value of Log P _{octanol/water.} The calculated Hildebrand solubility parameter δ was very similar for the two oils, indicating that their solubilizing capacity was comparable.

As a gel-forming agent, steralkonium hectorite (Bentone 27) was used in combination with propylene carbonate. Bentone 27 was a hydrophobically modified sheet silicate. The average dimensions of the clay platelets were 80 x 800 x 1 nm. The addition of propylene carbonate helped to develop a network structure of the gel-forming agent in the oil.

Results of in vivo SPF measurement

The UV absorber compositions used in all formulations were 5% Uvinul A + 2.5% Uvinul T150 and 3% Tinosolv S. Using the latest version of the BASF sunscreen simulator, the calculated SPF for this composition was obtained as 20.8.

Table 2 shows the results of the in vivo SPF screening performed at both test centers.

<Table EX2>

From Table EX2, it is clear that the formulation without the gel-forming agent exhibited an SPF value that was much smaller than expected from the calculated values, but the addition of the gel-forming agent resulted in a dramatic increase in SPF above the expected value. did. Obviously, it was not important whether the concentration of bentone 27 was 6.5% or 13% for the in vivo results.

<Table EX3>

Results of viscosity measurement

For low viscosity, Brookfield DV-III with LV spindle was used, for high viscosity a Brookfield DV-III Ultra with RV spindle was used.

<Table EX4>

The results in Table EX4 showed a dramatic increase in viscosity with higher gel-forming agent concentrations.

Claims (5)

A compound of formula TR4
<Formula TR4>

; and
A compound of formula BP2
<Formula BP2>

Oleogel (a) comprising a stationary phase selected from dibutyl adipate and diethylhexyl carbonate for increasing the sun protection index of a sunscreen comprising at least one organic UV filter (b) selected from the group consisting of How to use. The method according to claim 1, wherein the gel-forming agent of oleogel (a) is
(gf ₁ ) Stearalkonium Hectorite (Bentonite),
(gf ₂ ) gelatin,
(gf ₃ ) silica,
(gf ₄ ) montmorillonite,
(gf ₅ ) monoglycerides and diglycerides;
(gf ₆ ) polysaccharide,
(gf ₇ ) pectin and
(gf ₈ ) Polyethylene
A method of use selected from Method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the gel former of oleogel (a) _{is selected from (gf 1} ) stearalkonium hectorite in combination with propylene carbonate. Method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the oleogel (a) is formed from the gel formers (gf ₁ ) stearalkonium hectorite and (gf ₈ ) polyethylene. (a) the stable oleogel as defined in paragraph 1;
(b) at least one organic UV filter as defined in paragraph 1;
A cosmetic composition comprising a.