KR101438375B1 - Cosmetic composition containing the ultraviolet absorber or blocking agent encapsulated in the lipidic capsules - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing a lipid capsule encapsulated with an ultraviolet absorber or a blocking agent, and more particularly, to a cosmetic composition containing a lipid capsule prepared by collecting an ultraviolet absorber or a blocking agent in a high alcohol, a fatty acid, a lipid peptide, Thereby improving the stability against heat and light.

Ultraviolet absorber, sunscreen, lipid, capsule, emulsion, formulation stability, cosmetic composition

Description

Cosmetic composition containing ultraviolet absorber or blocking agent encapsulated in the lipidic capsules,

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing a lipid capsule encapsulated with an ultraviolet absorber, and more particularly to a cosmetic composition containing a lipid capsule prepared by collecting an ultraviolet absorber or a blocking agent in a high alcohol, a fatty acid, a lipid peptide or a combination thereof. To a cosmetic composition having improved stability to light.

The ultraviolet screening agent penetrates deep into the skin, erythema or the skin to change the color of melanin to darken the skin. In order to block ultraviolet rays that cause aging of the skin by modifying the elastic fibers such as collagen and elastin in the skin, And ultraviolet screening agents, respectively, or combinations thereof, and it has a role of blocking ultraviolet rays from directly contacting the skin.

A general ultraviolet absorber is a compound having an electron-donating group such as an amine or a methoxyl group at an ortho or para- position of an aromatic ring structure and having a pi -conjugation molecular structure, such as PABA p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives and cinnamate derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, benzophenones and anthranilates.

When ultraviolet rays stimulate materials of this structure, they absorb ultraviolet rays and become photochemically excited. When they return to their original energy state, surplus absorbed energy releases ultraviolet rays by emitting modified secondary energy. However, such an ultraviolet absorber does not withstand the accumulated energy in a photochemical excited state, and is not photodegraded or decomposed by heat to exhibit ultraviolet shielding effect. In addition, most ultraviolet absorbers are poorly soluble, and emulsion formulations are prepared using highly polar solvents for use in formulations. However, in the thermodynamically unstable emulsion formulations, the polar solvent significantly lowers the stability of the emulsion, so that the formulation stability of the formulations containing the ultraviolet absorber is poor and the ultraviolet absorber usage is limited.

In order to solve the problems of stability of light and heat and stability of formulation of such ultraviolet screening agents, hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin and ultraviolet absorber, which are modified physicochemical properties of cyclodextrin, are complexed (S. Scalia, S. Villani, A. Scatturin, MA Vandelli, F. Forni, Int. J. Pharm., 175 (1998) 205); And the energy in the excited state of the ultraviolet absorber is transferred to molecules such as octocrylene, methylbenzylidene camphor and diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (1998) 56, C. Bonda, DC Steinberg, Cosmet. Toil., 115 (2000) 37, U.S. Patent Nos. 5,587,150 and 6,033,649) However, no satisfactory results were obtained in terms of optical stability and thermal stability.

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2001-49883 (June 15, 2001) discloses a method for producing soft microcapsules by using the O / W / O emulsion method. However, When strong substances are collected, they are all precipitated. In addition, it is difficult to apply to capsules formed by base formation, and it is difficult to apply the capsules to various formulations. In the manufacturing process, a hydrophilic polymer gelling agent such as agar or carrageenan is used for heating and cooling. Thus, an ultraviolet absorber It was denatured at the time of manufacture and could not be produced other than a soft capsule having a low hardness.

Therefore, it is urgently required to develop a system capable of preventing light and thermal decomposition of such ultraviolet screening agents and stabilizing them in formulations.

Accordingly, the present inventors have sought to find a method of stabilizing an ultraviolet absorber which is difficult to apply ultraviolet ray blocking effect due to unstable heat and light, and which is difficult to apply to various formulations by using a highly polar solvent to increase solubility, As a result, it has been found that ultraviolet ray blocking effect and formulation stability can be improved by capturing an ultraviolet absorber or a blocking agent in a high-alcohol, a fatty acid, a lipid peptide, or a combination thereof.

Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition comprising an ultraviolet absorber of a form having excellent stability against heat and light and excellent stability of a formulation.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising a lipid capsule in which an absorbent or a blocking agent is entrapped in a high-alcohol, a fatty acid, a lipid peptide, or a combination thereof.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention improves the stability of ultraviolet absorber against heat and light by encapsulating ultraviolet absorber and blocker with high alcohol, fatty acid, lipid peptide or a combination thereof, The problems of the ultraviolet absorber-containing formulations, which are poor in stability and difficult to apply to various formulations, are effectively prevented from coalescence or agglomeration of particles through the lipid capsule particles, so that they can be stably applied to various formulations.

The present invention overcomes the stability problem of the emulsion formulation due to the use of a highly polar solvent due to instability due to heat and light and low solubility of the ultraviolet absorber while maintaining ultraviolet shielding effect of the ultraviolet absorber, to provide.

The lipid capsules according to the present invention are prepared by encapsulating an ultraviolet absorber or a blocking agent with a higher alcohol, a fatty acid, a lipid peptide, or a combination thereof. The lipid capsules can be prepared in various sizes of nanometer or millimeter, Is characterized by having a diameter of 10 nm to 5 mm. When the diameter is less than 10 nm, it is difficult to effectively capture ultraviolet absorber and blocking agent, and it is difficult to improve formulation stability. When the diameter exceeds 5 mm, the particle size is too large to be applied smoothly and uniformly, I do not.

The ultraviolet absorber component used in the present invention includes cinnamate derivatives such as octyl methoxycinnamate and isoamyl-p-methoxycinnamate; Salicylic acid derivatives such as butylmethoxy dibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxylphenolmethoxy phenyl triazine, and octyl salicylate; PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid) derivatives, benzophenones and anthranilates.

In addition to the ultraviolet absorber, a commonly used ultraviolet screening agent may be used together. In general, the type of ultraviolet screening agent is a powdery form such as ZnO (zinc oxide), TiO ₂ (titanium dioxide), silicate and talc, and the content in the formulation is preferably less than 5% and should not exceed 10% do. If it is more than 10%, it is difficult to formulate and the whitening phenomenon becomes severe when used. In addition, one or more ultraviolet absorbers and blocking agents may be mixed in the lipid capsule particles, and most cosmetic oil components are also applicable at the same time. In the emulsion composition according to the present invention, the content of the ultraviolet absorber and the blocking agent is preferably 2.0 to 30.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

In the present invention, the envelope lipid component which collects the ultraviolet absorber or blocking agent may be selected from the group consisting of lipid and pseudo-lipid substances which are solid at room temperature, and examples thereof include behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Higher alcohols including lilmonostearate, cetostearyl alcohol and butyl alcohol; Fatty acids including stearic acid, palmitic acid and myristic acid; Lipid peptides including lecithin, kefarin, spinoglycerin, and cervulocide, and combinations thereof.

The shell lipid component prevents the particles of lipid capsules containing ultraviolet absorber from aggregating and coalescing at high temperature owing to the high melting point, thereby enhancing the stability against heat and light as well as enhancing the stability of the emulsion. This is because they do not make you feel a foreign body.

The content of the outer lipid component in the O / W formulation is 0.5 to 15.0% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 8.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If it is less than 0.5% by weight, the ultraviolet absorber can not be sufficiently encapsulated and the formulation stability is deteriorated. If the amount is more than 15.0% by weight, a hard cream formulation is produced due to excessive use of lipid components.

In addition, the lipid capsules according to the present invention may contain, in addition to the above components, a liquid form ultraviolet absorber or a solid form ultraviolet absorber, and further may further include a liquid oil component such as octylmethoxycinnamate And isoamyl-p-methoxy cinnamate; A solid state ultraviolet absorber comprising butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane and bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine; Hydrocarbon oils including hydrogeneized polydecene and squalane; Cetyl octanoate, and ester oil containing octyldodecyl myristate. The liquid oil component may be contained in an amount of 1.0 to 50.0% by weight, preferably 5.0 to 30.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition in the O / W formulation. If it is less than 1.0% by weight, the amount of ultraviolet absorber is too small to anticipate ultraviolet shielding effect. When it exceeds 50.0% by weight, it is difficult to effectively encapsulate ultraviolet absorbers in lipid components, .

In the method of mixing and encapsulating the above components, a lipid component and an ultraviolet absorber are heated and dissolved in a separate container at 70 DEG C, and dispersed with a homogenizer to prepare a prochymous mixture. Then, the supernatant is heated and dissolved at 70 DEG C, Type mixture is slowly added to the water phase to form lipid capsule particles through a homogenizer at < RTI ID = 0.0 > 70 C < / RTI > Through such a process, the lipid capsule particles obtained by capturing the ultraviolet absorbent according to the present invention can be obtained.

In the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic composition containing a lipid capsule encapsulating the ultraviolet absorber or the blocking agent. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise a water-solubilizing agent in addition to the lipid capsule in which the ultraviolet absorber or blocking agent is collected. In the case of not containing the aqueous suspending agent, the stability of the formulation of the cosmetic material may be deteriorated, for example, the particles may float on storage. Therefore, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can prevent the lipid capsule particles from floating or aggregating in the composition by further using an aqueous phase-enhancing agent.

Examples of the water builder to be used in the present invention include carbomers, polyacrylamides, ammonium acryloyldimethylate-vinyl copolymers, xanthan gum, cellulose ethers, polyvinyl derivatives, alginates, polyacrylates, .

The content of the aqueous thickener is preferably 0.01 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If it is less than 0.01% by weight, the emulsion can not have a viscosity enough to inhibit creaming. If it is more than 5.0% by weight, the emulsion viscosity is too high and it is difficult to apply as a cosmetic material. It is because.

In addition, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used by adjusting a water-soluble moisturizer and the like commonly used as cosmetics according to the purpose and use of each product.

In the present invention, an ultraviolet absorber or an ultraviolet absorber which absorbs ultraviolet absorber or blocking agent into lipid or similar lipid and encapsulates it to block out oxygen or light from the outside, and is stable to heat and light and does not cause aggregation or coalescence of particles due to a non- The present invention provides a stable cosmetic composition containing the same. In addition, the lipid capsule according to the present invention does not use an insoluble component unlike ordinary microcapsules, so that the lipid capsule is not felt when applied on the skin.

In the skin cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the composition can be used not only in cosmetics for ultraviolet shielding but also in all kinds of cosmetics, and there is no particular limitation on the formulations. For example, Cosmetic composition for the purpose of ultraviolet shielding such as sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen, essence and spray agent, besides cosmetic composition for ultraviolet shielding purpose, general softening longevity, convergent lotion, nutritional lotion, nutritional cream, massage cream, eye cream, eye essence, essence, cleansing cream, , Cleansing foam, cleansing water, pack, powder, body lotion, body cream, body essence, body cleanser, hair dye, shampoo, rinse, toothpaste, mouthwash, ≪ / RTI >

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples and Test Examples, but the scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples.

[Example 1] Preparation of an emulsion containing lipid capsule particles capturing octylmethoxy cinnamate, isoamyl-p-methoxy cinnamate and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine

According to the composition (unit: wt%) shown in the following Table 1, oil phase parts 1 to 4 were heated and dissolved in a separate container at 70 DEG C and dispersed with a homogenizer to prepare a proton type mixture. The water phase from 5 to 10 was dissolved by heating at 70 DEG C and then the parent phase mixture was slowly added to the water phase and emulsified at 70 DEG C. [ Finally, the emulsion composition was filled into an airtight container and cooled to room temperature using a cooler.

ingredient Example 1 1. Behenyl alcohol 3.2 2. Octylmethoxycinnamate 7 3. Isoamyl-p-methoxy cinnamate 7 4. Bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine 6 5. Purified water Balance 6. EDTA-2Na 0.02 7. Glycerin 5.0 8. Phenoxyethanol 0.3 9. Carbomer 0.2 10. Neutralizing agent Suitable amount

[Comparative Example 1] Preparation of a general emulsion containing octylmethoxy cinnamate, isoamyl-p-methoxy cinnamate and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine

(Raw materials 1-11) were dissolved in a separate container by heating at 70 ° C according to the composition (unit: wt%) shown in the following Table 2 and dispersed using a homogenizer to prepare a pro-type mixture. The water phase (raw materials 12-14) was heated to 70 DEG C to dissolve, and a homogeneous mixture was added thereto, followed by emulsification for 4-5 minutes under water at 70 DEG C using homogenization. A thickening agent such as a carbomer and an appropriate amount of a neutralizing agent were added thereto and mixed for 3 minutes using a homogenizer. The bubbles in the emulsion were removed using a degasser, the emulsion was filled in an airtight container and cooled to room temperature using a cooling unit. The following Comparative Example 1 is a cream-phase emulsion.

ingredient Comparative Example 1 1. Octylmethoxycinnamate 7 2. Isoamyl p-methoxy cinnamate 7 3. Bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine 6 4. Cetostearyl alcohol 1.0 5. Stearic acid 0.5 6. Polysorbate 60 1.5 7. Sorbitan Scaleat 0.5 8. Glyceryl stearate 0.5 9. Cyclomethicone 5.0 10. Methylparaben 0.2 11. Propylparaben 0.1 12. Purified water Balance 13. EDTA 2Na 0.02 14. Glycerin 5.0 15. Carbomer 0.2 16. Neutralizing agent Suitable amount

[Test Example 1] Comparison of long-term stability at high temperature

The high temperature stability of each sample obtained in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was observed at 45 占 폚 for 2 months. Stability was visually observed at 1 week, 2 weeks, 1 month and 2 months after storage, and the results are shown in Table 3.

High Temperature Stability (45 ℃) Observation Results Example 1 Comparative Example 1 One week ○ ○ after 2 weeks ○ △ After 1 month ○ X Two months later ○ X

○: No separation of oil phase and water phase was observed.

B: A slight separation of oil phase and water phase was observed.

X: Significant separation of oil phase water phase was confirmed.

As can be seen from the results of Table 3, the emulsion formulation stabilized with the lipid capsule particles of the ultraviolet absorber was much superior to the general emulsion formulation containing the ultraviolet absorber in high content, Of the total weight of the composition.

[Example 2] Preparation of emulsion containing lipid capsule particles capturing butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane

According to the composition (unit: wt%) shown in Table 4, the oil phase parts 1 to 3 were dissolved in a separate vessel at 70 DEG C by heating and dispersed with a homogenizer to prepare a proton type mixture. The water-based parts from 4 to 9 were dissolved by heating at 70 DEG C, and then the pro-type mixture was slowly added to the water-based part and emulsified at 70 DEG C. Finally, the emulsion composition was filled into an airtight container and cooled to room temperature using a cooler.

ingredient Example 2 1. Behenyl alcohol 2 2. Dicapyryl carbonate 5 3. Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 5 4. Purified water Balance 5. EDTA-2Na 0.02 6. Glycerine 5.0 7. Phenoxyethanol 0.3 8. Carbomer 0.2 9. Neutralizing agent Suitable amount

[Comparative Example 2] Preparation of general emulsion containing butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane

According to the composition (unit: wt%) shown in Table 5, the oil phase parts (raw materials 1-8) were dissolved in a separate container at 70 캜 by heating and dispersed using a homogenizer to prepare a proton type mixture. The water phase (raw materials 9-14) was dissolved by heating at 70 DEG C and the homogeneous mixture was added thereto and homogenized to emulsify at 70 DEG C for 4-5 minutes in water type. A thickening agent such as a carbomer and an appropriate amount of a neutralizing agent were added thereto and mixed for 3 minutes using a homogenizer. The bubbles in the emulsion were removed using a degasser, the emulsion was filled in an airtight container and cooled to room temperature using a cooling unit. The following Comparative Example 2 is a cream-phase emulsion.

ingredient Comparative Example 2 1. butyl methoxybenzoylmethane 5 2. Dicapyryl carbonate 5 3. Cetostearyl alcohol 1.0 4. Stearic acid 0.5 5. Polysorbate 60 1.5 6. Sorbitan Scaleat 0.5 7. Glyceryl stearate 0.5 8. Cyclomethicone 5.0 9. Purified water Balance 10. EDTA 2Na 0.02 11. Glycerin 5.0 12. Phenoxyethanol 0.3 13. Carbomer 0.2 14. Neutralizing agent Suitable amount

[Test Example 2] Comparison of thermal stability in a formulation of an ultraviolet absorber

Butylmethoxybenzoylmethane, which is one of ultraviolet absorbers which are unstable in heat and light and is not easy to use in the formulation, is prepared as an emulsion including lipid capsules particles containing ultraviolet absorber and a general emulsion formulation as in Comparative Example 2 of Example 2 To confirm the thermal stability of each sample. The samples were stored at 25 ° C and 40 ° C oven for 1 week, 2 weeks, 1 month and 2 months after storage, respectively, and the thermal stability was confirmed through the residual amount of ultraviolet absorber using liquid chromatography. Are shown in Table 6 below.

Storage temperature
(° C) Initial concentration retention (%) After 1 week after 2 weeks After 1 month Two months later Example 2 25 100 100 100 100 40 100 99 95 91 Comparative Example 2 25 100 95 89 76 40 100 89 72 45

As can be seen from the results of Table 6, the emulsion of Example 2 containing the ultraviolet absorber captured on the lipid capsule particles maintained an initial amount of 90% or more even after 8 weeks and exhibited excellent stability. From these results, it can be seen that the stabilization of the ultraviolet absorber in the emulsion can be maintained by effectively blocking the ultraviolet absorber from other factors that may affect the stability of the lipid wall agent used in the present invention. Also, the results of Test Example 1 indicate that when the lipid capsules according to the present invention are contained, the stable formulation is maintained without changing the shape of the lipid capsules.

[Test Example 3] Confirmation of optical stability of ultraviolet absorber

In order to confirm the light stability of the emulsion prepared in Example 2 and Comparative Example 2, the optical stability was measured by confirming the difference in absorbance before and after the UV irradiation using a UV spectrometer. First, the initial absorbance was measured using a UV spectrometer, and ultraviolet A was irradiated for 30 minutes using an ultraviolet light (UVA tech.). The absorbance of each solution after UV irradiation using a UV spectrometer was measured and compared with the initial absorbance. The results are shown in Table 7, and optical stability was calculated according to the following equation (1).

Optical stability = (absorbance after ultraviolet irradiation / absorbance before ultraviolet irradiation) x 100

Before UV irradiation
Absorbance After UV irradiation
Absorbance Optical stability Example 2 One 0.90 90% Comparative Example 2 One 0.62 62%

As can be seen from the results of Table 7, the emulsion of Example 2 containing the ultraviolet absorber captured in the lipid capsules maintained an initial absorbance of 90% or more even after ultraviolet irradiation and exhibited excellent optical stability. Thus, it was confirmed that the lipid capsule capturing the ultraviolet absorber according to the present invention can stably protect the ultraviolet absorber from heat and light by effectively stabilizing the ultraviolet absorber.

Claims (7)

And a lipid capsule encapsulated with an ultraviolet absorber, Wherein the ultraviolet absorber is selected from the group consisting of cinnamate derivatives including octyl methoxycinnamate and isoamyl-p-methoxycinnamate; Salicylic acid derivatives including butylmethoxy dibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyl phenolmethoxy phenyl triazine, and octyl salicylate; At least one selected from the group consisting of PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid) derivatives, benzophenones and anthranilates, Wherein the lipid forming the lipid capsule is at least one selected from higher alcohols having 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the lipid capsule has a diameter of 10 nm to 5 mm. delete The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the lipid capsule further comprises at least one ultraviolet screening agent selected from the group consisting of ZnO (zinc oxide), TiO ₂ (titanium dioxide), silicate and talc. delete The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is selected from the group consisting of a carbomer, a polyacrylamide, an ammonium acryloyldimethylate-vinyl copolymer, a xanthan gum, a cellulose ether, a polyvinyl derivative, an alginate, a polyacrylate, Wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises at least one water-enhancing agent selected from the group consisting of 7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 6, wherein the content of the water-wise thickening agent is 0.01 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.