KR101187332B1 - Use of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one organic silicon compound in combination with a composition for caring for and/or washing keratinous fibres - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of cosmetic compositions comprising one or more organosilicon compounds in a cosmetically acceptable medium, in combination with a composition for washing and / or caring for keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair. will be.

The invention also comprises the application of a cosmetic composition comprising one or more organosilicon compounds in a cosmetically acceptable medium, in combination with a care and / or washable composition, a human such as keratinous fibers, in particular hair. It relates to a method for treating keratinous fibers in.

Keratinous fiber, conditioner, silicon, cleaning composition, conditioner, care composition

Description

Use of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one organic silicon compound in combination with a composition for caring for and and the keratinous fiber is combined with a composition for cleaning and / or care of keratinous fibers. / or washing keratinous fibers

The present invention relates to the use of cosmetic compositions comprising one or more organosilicon compounds in a cosmetically acceptable medium, in combination with a composition for washing and / or caring for keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair. will be. The invention also relates to a process for the treatment of keratinous fibers consisting of applying a cosmetic composition comprising one or more organosilicon compounds in a cosmetically acceptable medium, together with a care and / or cleaning composition.

Hair is generally damaged and brittle by the action of external environmental agents such as light, bad weather, and mechanical or chemical actions such as combing, brushing, dyeing, bleaching, firming and / or straightening.

Therefore, in order to overcome this drawback, hair care related to the use of care products that can condition hair in particular, in particular, give a styling effect by imparting gloss, softness, and natural feel to the hair. It is common to rely on treatment.

These hair care compositions may in particular be conditioning shampoos or conditioners provided in the form of gels, hair lotions or rather thick creams.

On the other hand, more and more consumers are finding that they are looking for a care composition that can not only keep the hair in proper condition, but also give a satisfactory styling effect.

In particular, people with thin or curled hair generally give mass, body, and volume to fine hair and trim the curls of wavy hair. Looking for a care product that gives a styling effect.

However, conventional care compositions provide a relatively weak or non-uniform styling effect, especially in terms of ordered form of curl and volume.

This is because the introduction of cosmetically active organic compounds such as cationic polymers and silicones into care compositions such as conditioners can impart anti-tangling, flexibility and light properties to the hair. However, the styling properties to be imparted to the hair are still significantly inadequate.

Thus, there is a practical need to use a hair treatment method that does not exhibit a series of disadvantages as described above, ie a hair treatment method that provides a particularly satisfactory styling effect.

Applicant company surprisingly desires to apply a cosmetic composition comprising one or more organosilicon compounds as described below on a keratinous fiber in combination with a composition for washing and / or care of keratinous fibers. It has been found that properties can be obtained.

The term "combination" within the meaning of the present invention means that cosmetic compositions comprising one or more organosilicon compounds, as defined below, and care and / or cleaning compositions can be applied sequentially to keratinous fibers. It is understood to mean that there is.

This means that the use of a cosmetic composition comprising such an organosilicon compound in combination with a cleaning and / or care composition, such as a shampoo or conditioner, will have the effect of satisfactorily wrapping each hair and thus a satisfactory softness to the hair. This is because it was found that it was possible to give a texture.

In particular, the compositions according to the invention used in combination with cleaning and / or care compositions can impart volume, dimensionality and shape retention to hair, in particular fine hair, and can also give vitality to curls. Thus, curled hair can have a better shape.

The styling effect thus obtained is markedly increased more significantly than the effect imparted by using the care and / or cleaning composition alone.

In addition, the composition used by supplementing the cleaning and / or care composition can improve not only the styling effect but also the cosmetic properties compared to that given by using the cleaning and / or care composition alone.

This is because the cosmetic composition used to replenish the care and / or wash composition can improve gloss, flexibility and softness to the hair as compared to using the wash and / or care composition alone.

It has also been found that when a composition comprising an organosilicon compound is treated prior to a care and / or washable composition, the styling effect imparted by this composition can withstand the application of a shampoo or conditioner. This is advantageous in that the user does not lose the effect obtained by the pretreatment when using the shampoo or conditioner.

It has also been found that with the cosmetic compositions according to the invention used in combination with cleaning and / or care compositions, each hair is kept separate from each other and thus more easily prevents tangling.

The term "composition for care" within the meaning of the present invention preferably does not wash off, which does not significantly affect the components and / or color of the fiber in the course of improving the appearance and / or conditioning properties of the keratinous fiber. Is understood to mean a composition that does not. This excludes compositions for dyeing, firming, in particular reducing and fixing (oxidizing compositions), and straightening compositions.

According to the invention, the care composition comprises less than 4% by weight anionic surfactant, preferably less than 2% by weight anionic surfactant, more preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the care preparation. Surfactants.

The present invention particularly relates to a silane comprising one silicon atom in a cosmetically acceptable medium, and two or more in combination with a composition for washing and / or caring for keratinous fibers, such as human keratinous fibers such as hair. Use of a cosmetic composition comprising an organosilicon compound selected from siloxanes comprising three silicon atoms and further comprising one or more basic chemical functional groups and one or more hydroxyl groups or hydrolyzable groups per molecule The silane is selected from compounds of formula (I), as described below, wherein the cosmetic composition and the care and / or cleaning composition are applied sequentially to keratinous fibers.

In other words, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a cosmetic composition comprising one or more organosilicon compounds as described above is used to supplement the composition for washing and / or caring for keratinous fibers.

Another aspect of the present invention is to sequentially apply a cosmetic composition and a care and / or wash composition comprising one or more organosilicon compounds as described above in a cosmetically acceptable medium to the keratinous fibers A method of cosmetic treatment of the keratinous fibers, consisting of rinsing or not rinsing after an optional leave-in time or substantial drying step .

Other nature, features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent from the following examples and descriptions.

The organosilicon compounds used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are selected from organosilanes comprising one silicon atom and organosiloxanes comprising two or three silicon atoms, preferably two silicon atoms. They should also contain one or more basic chemical functional groups, preferably only one basic chemical functional group. The basic chemical functional group may correspond to any functional group which imparts basicity to the silicon compound without impairing solubility in water, and is preferably an amine functional group such as a primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group. The basic chemical functional group of the silicon compound according to the present invention may optionally include other functional groups such as other amine functional groups, acid functional groups, or halogen functional groups.

The organosilicon compounds or compounds used in the compositions according to the invention additionally comprise two or more hydrolyzable or hydroxyl groups per molecule. Hydrolyzable groups are preferably alkoxy, aryloxy, or halogen groups. They may also optionally include other chemical functional groups, such as acid functional groups.

The organosilanes or organosilanes used in the compositions according to the invention are derived from compounds of formula (I) Is selected:

(I)

(I)

Where

R ₄ represents a halogen or an OR ′ or R ′ ₁ group;

R ₅ represents a halogen or an OR '' or R ' ₂ group;

R ₆ represents a halogen or an OR '''orR' ₃ group;

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , R ', R'',R''', R ' ₁ , R' ₂ , and R ' ₃ are each, independently, saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched, optional Denotes a hydrocarbon group with additional chemical groups, and R ₁ , R ₂ , R ', R''andR''' may additionally represent hydrogen, at least two of which are R ₄ , R ₅ and R ₆ The dogs represent OR ', OR'', and OR''', respectively, and at least two of the groups R ', R'', and R''' are groups other than hydrogen.

Preferably, the R ₁ , R ₂ , R ', R'1, R'2, R'3, R''andR''' groups are C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl, C ₆ to C ₁₄ aryl, (C ₁ To C ₈ ) alkyl (C ₆ to C ₁₄ ) aryl and (C ₆ to C ₁₄ ) aryl (C ₁ to C ₈ ) alkyl radicals.

According to another specific embodiment, the organosiloxanes or organosiloxanes used in the composition according to the invention are selected from compounds of the formula (II)

(II)

(II)

Where

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , R ₅ and R ₆ are as defined above;

R'4 represents a halogen atom or an OR ₁₁ group;

R ₇ represents a halogen atom or an OR ₁₀ or R ″ ₁ group;

R ₉ represents a halogen atom or an OR ₈ , R ″ ₂ or R ₃ NR ₁ R ₂ group;

R '' ₁ , R '' ₂ , R ₈ , R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ are hydrocarbon groups with saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched, optionally additional chemical groups, and R ₁₁ , R ₁₀ and R ₈ The group may additionally represent a hydrogen atom, at least one of the groups R ₆ , R ₇ and R ₉ represents a hydrogen atom or an OR ′ '', OR ₁₀ or OR ₈ group.

Preferably, the R '' ₁ , R '' ₂ , R ₈ or R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ groups are C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl, C ₆ to C ₁₄ aryl, (C ₁ to C ₈ ) alkyl (C ₆ to C ₁₄ ) aryl and (C ₆ to C ₁₄ ) aryl (C ₁ to C ₈ ) alkyl radicals.

In particular, the halogen atom is a chlorine atom.

The organosilicon compounds or compounds used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably organosilanes selected from compounds of the formula (III):

(III)

(III)

Wherein R radicals which may be the same or different are C ₁ -C ₆ , preferably C ₁ -C ₂ , alkyl radicals, n is an integer from 1 to 6, preferably an integer from 2 to 4.

Preferably, the silane or siloxane is water soluble in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure of 25 ° C. ± 5 ° C., preferably water soluble at a concentration of 2% by weight, more preferably water soluble at a concentration of 5% by weight, even more preferred. Preferably at a concentration of 10% by weight. The term "water soluble" should be understood to mean forming a single phase which is visible to the naked eye.

Especially preferably, the organosilicon compound present in the composition according to the invention is (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane.

The organosilicon compound or compounds which may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, in the range of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably with respect to the total composition weight It may be present in the range of 1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably in the range of 2.5 to 12% by weight.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more organic acids.

The term "organic acid" is understood to mean any nonpolymeric organic compound comprising one or more acid functional groups selected from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphoric acid functional groups.

Preferably, the organic acid is not a surfactant.

More preferably, the organic acid has a molecular weight of less than 250, more preferably less than 200.

The organic acid can be an amino acid.

The organic acid is preferably selected from acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid, succinic acid, taurine, tartaric acid, arginine, glycine, glucuronic acid, gluconic acid and citric acid.

More preferably, the organic acid according to the invention is a carboxylic acid.

More preferably, the organic acid used in the composition according to the invention is acetic acid, citric acid, preferably lactic acid.

In the compositions of the present invention, the organic acid may be in free or chlorinated form.

The organic acid used in the composition according to the invention, when expressed in free acid form, is 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total amount of the total composition. Present in quantities.

The term "cosmetically acceptable medium" is understood to mean a medium that is compatible with keratinous fibers such as hair.

The cosmetically acceptable medium is water or a mixture with water, and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents, ie lower C ₁ -C ₄ alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol , tert-butanol or n- Butanol; Polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycol; And solvents selected from mixtures thereof, and the like.

The pH of the composition according to the invention can generally vary between 3 and 11, and preferably between 7 and 10.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more conventional additives well known in the art, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators; C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid alcohols; Ceramides; Oily fatty acid esters such as isopropyl myrilate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; Vegetable or synthetic oils such as mineral, a-oliffin or palm oil; Vitamin or provitamin; Cationic or amphoteric polymers; Silicon other than the organosilicon compound according to the present invention; pH-stabilizers; Preservatives; And colorants.

Preferably the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more thickeners.

Thickeners include cellulose thickeners such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose; Guar gum or derivatives thereof, such as hydroxypropyl guar sold under the name Jaguar HP # 105 by Rhodia, gums of microbial origin such as xanthan gum and celloglucan gum; Synthetic thickeners such as crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid such as carbomers; Or nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric associative polymers such as those sold by Goodrich under the name Pemulen TR1 or TR2, sold by Ciba under the name Salcare SC90, Aculyn 22, Sold by Rohm & Haas under the trade names 28, 33, 44 or 46 and by Akzo under the trade names Elfacos T210 and T212.

Those skilled in the art will be able to select appropriate additives and their amounts as appropriate without departing from the characteristics of the compositions of the present invention.

These additives may generally be present in the range of 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising the silanes and / or siloxanes of the present invention.

Cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be provided in various forms such as gels, lotions or creams.

Cosmetic compositions and compositions for washing and / or care according to the invention are applied sequentially to keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair.

In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied while being treated before or after the composition for washing and / or care of keratinous fibers.

In this case, the cosmetic composition used before or after the treatment of the composition for washing and / or care of the keratinous fibers may be applied in a rinse-out form or in a leave-in form, which is This means that it may or may not be rinsed after its application.

More preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is used before the treatment of the composition for washing and / or care of keratinous fibers.

The cleaning and / or care composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

As examples of cationic surfactants, in particular, optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty acids Salts of amines And optionally polyoxyalkylenated quaternary ammonium salts.

Preferably, the cationic surfactants are optionally selected from polyoxyalkylated quaternary ammonium salts.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts include, in particular, the following:

-Compounds represented by the following formula (IV):

                             (IV)

Wherein R ₈ to R ₁₁ radicals, which may be the same or different from one another, are straight or branched aliphatic radicals having 1 to 30 carbon atoms or aromatic radicals such as aryl or alkylaryl. Aliphatic radicals may include hetero atoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

Aliphatic radicals are, for example, alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxy (C ₂ -C ₆ ) -alkylene, alkylamides, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl-amido (C ₂ -C ₆ ) alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl acetate or hydroxyalkyl radicals containing about 1 to 30 carbon atoms; X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C ₂ -C ₆ ) alkyl sulfates, or alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates;

Imidazoline quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, compounds of formula (V):

(V)

(V)

Wherein, R ₁₂ is, for example, tallow (tallow) represents an alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as derivatives of fatty acid, R ₁₃ is a hydrogen atom, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl A radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ₁₄ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, R ₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, and X ⁻ is a halide , Phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, or alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates. Preferably, R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ represent a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example as derivatives of tallow fatty acids, R ₁₄ represents a methyl radical and R ₁₅ represents hydrogen Represents an atom. These materials may include, for example, sold by Rewo under the trade names such as Rewoquat ^® W 75;

Di-quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI):

(VI)

(VI)

Wherein R ₁₆ represents an aliphatic radical comprising about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, and R ₁₇ , R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , which may be the same or different from each other, are hydrogen or 1 to 4 carbon atoms Represents an alkyl radical comprising, X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, and methyl sulfates. These di-quaternary ammonium salts include in particular propanetallowdiammonium dichloride;

Quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, such as compounds of formula (VII):

(VII)

(VII)

Where

R ₂₂ is selected from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radicals and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;

R ₂₃ is selected from:

라디칼, -

Radical,

Saturated or unsaturated straight or branched C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon radicals R ₂₇ , And

-Hydrogen atom;

R ₂₅ is selected from:

라디칼, ^-

Radical,

Saturated or unsaturated straight or branched C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon radicals R ₂₉ , and

Hydrogen atoms;

R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be the same or different from each other, are saturated or unsaturated straight or branched C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon radicals;

R, s and t, which may be the same as or different from each other, are integers having a value between 2 and 6;

y is an integer between 1 and 10;

X and z, which may be the same or different from each other, are integers between 0 and 10;

X ⁻ is an organic or inorganic single or complex anion;

However, if the sum of x + y + z is 1 to 15, and x has a value of 0, R ₂₃ represents R ₂₇ , and if z has a value of 0, R ₂₅ represents R ₂₉ .

The R ₂₂ alkyl radical is straight or branched, more preferably straight chain.

Preferably, R ₂₂ represents a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.

Advantageously, the sum of x + y + z is a value between 1 and 10.

When R ₂₃ is an R ₂₇ hydrocarbon radical, it has 12 to 22 carbon atoms long or 1 to 3 carbon atoms short.

When R ₂₅ is an R ₂₉ hydrocarbon radical, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be the same or different from each other, are straight or branched C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon radicals that are saturated or unsaturated, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated. C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl radicals.

Preferably, x and z, which may be the same or different from each other, have a value of 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to one.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be the same or different from each other, have a value of 2 or 3, more preferably equal to 2.

The anion is preferably halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkyl sulfate, more preferably methyl sulfate. However, it is also possible to use methanesulfonates, phosphates, nitrates, tosylates, anions derived from organic acids, for example those such as acetates or lactates, or any other anion that is compatible with ammonium having ester functionality. have.

Anion X ⁻ is more preferably chloride or methyl sulfate.

More preferably, in the composition according to the invention, ammonium salts having the formula (VII) can be used, wherein:

R ₂₂ represents a methyl or ethyl radical,

X and y are equal to 1;

-Z is equal to 0 or 1;

R, s and t are equal to 2;

R ₂₃ is selected from:

라디칼, ^-

Radical,

Methyl, ethyl or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon radicals,

-Hydrogen atom; or

R ₂₃ is selected from:

라디칼, ^-

Radical,

-Hydrogen atom;

R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be the same or different from each other, are straight or branched C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon radicals which are saturated or unsaturated, and preferably straight or branched C ₁₃ -saturated or unsaturated. C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl radicals.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radical is straight chain.

Examples of the compound of formula (VII) include the following: diacyl oxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl- (hydroxyethyl) methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldi (hydroxyethyl)- Methylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethyl (hydroxyethyl) dimethylammonium salts (especially chlorides or methyl sulfates), and mixtures thereof. Acyl radicals preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly derive from vegetable oils such as palm oil or sunflower seed oil. If the compound contains several acyl radicals, they may be the same or different.

These compounds can be obtained, for example, by directly esterifying optionally oxyalkylated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanol-amine or alkyldiisopropanolamine with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin. Or transesterification of their methyl esters. Alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl halide), dialkyl sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methyl methane-sulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chloro after this esterification Quaternization with an alkylating agent such as hydrin is carried out.

The compounds include, for example, is sold under the trade name of ^{Dehyquart ® by Henkel, Stepanquat ® by} Stepan, Noxamium ® by Ceca or Rewoquat ® WE 18 by Rewo-Witco.

The cleaning and / or care compositions preferably comprise quaternary ammonium mono-, di-, and triester salts, mainly in the form of a large percentage by weight of diester salts.

Mixtures of ammonium salts, for example 15 to 30 wt% acyloxyethyldi (hydroxyethyl) methylammonium methyl sulfate, 45 to 60 wt% diacyloxyethyl (hydroxyethyl) methylammonium methyl sulfate and 15 to Mixtures of ammonium salts of 30% by weight of triacyloxyethyl-methylammonium methyl sulfate can be used, wherein the acyl radicals have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived from partially hydrogenated palm oil.

As examples of ammonium salts having one or more ester functional groups, those disclosed in US Patent Application Nos. US-A-4'874'554 and US-A-4'137'180 can be used.

On the other hand, among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV), for example, the alkaline radical contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular mehenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethyl-ammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride Or dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethyl-ammonium or alkylaralkyldimethylammonium chloride, such as benzyldi-methylstearylammonium chloride, or palmitamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, sold under the trade name Ceraphyl ^® 70 by Van Dyk. Or stearamidopropyl-dimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride can be preferably used.

Preferably, the cationic surfactant used in the cleaning and / or care composition is selected from behenyltrimethylammonium and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and mixtures thereof.

The cationic surfactant is present in an amount of 0.1 to 6% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the care and / or cleaning composition, and preferably relative to the total weight of the care composition. May exist.

The cleaning and / or care compositions may also include one or more additional surfactants selected from anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

Preferably, the cleaning composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition can be used in the form of salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts, or alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium salts. May be: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, Alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfo-succinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates and acylglutamate. The alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds have 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group preferably represents a phenyl or benzyl group.

Polyglycosidic dicarboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside citrate, alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and alkyl polyglycosidesulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates C _6-24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycosidedicarboxylic acids such as can also be used, wherein the alkyl or acyl groups of all these compounds have 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

Another group of anionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are acyl lactylates, wherein the acyl group has 8 to 20 carbon atoms.

In addition, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acid and salts thereof, and also polyoxyalkylenated C _6-24 alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C _6-24 ) alkyl (C _{6- 24} ) aryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C _6-24 ) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those having from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof Can be.

In particular in the form of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, amine or aminoalcohol salts, sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and mixtures thereof can also be used particularly preferably.

If present, anionic surfactant is 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the cleaning composition. It may be present in an amount less than.

The anionic surfactants may in particular be present in amounts of 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cleaning and / or care compositions.

Preferably the care composition does not comprise anionic surfactants.

Examples of additional nonionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. These are in particular, or in polyethoxylated poly, poly-a propoxylated or polyglycerol fatty acid alcohol screen, α- diols, (C _{1 -20)} alkyl phenol, or, for example, a fatty acid chain containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms The branch is selected from acids, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups can in particular be in the range of 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups can in particular be in the range of 2 to 30.

Condensates of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols such as the following may also be mentioned: polyethoxylated fatty acid amides, preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, on average from 1 to 5, in particular from 1 to 5 Glycerolated fatty acid amides containing 4 glycerol groups, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C _6-24 alkyl) polyglycosides, Such as N- (C _6-24 alkyl) glucamide derivatives or (C _10-14 alkyl amine oxides or N- (C _10-14 acyl) amino-propylmorpholine oxides Amine oxides.

If present, the additional nonionic surfactant is preferably present in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition weight.

Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants that can be used in the cleaning and / or care compositions are, in particular, aliphatic groups containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and at least one anionic group, for example carboxylate. It may be a straight or branched chain aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivative comprising groups such as, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate groups. (C _8-20 ) alkyl betaine, sulfobetaine, (C _8-20 alkyl) amido (C _6-8 alkyl) betaine or (C _8-20 alkyl) amido (C _6-8 alkyl) sulfide Pobetaine and the like.

Among other amine derivatives, Ampocarboxyglycinate described in U.S. Pat.Nos. 2 528 378 and 2 781 354 and having representative structures of the following (A) and (B) in CTFA dictionary, 3rd Edition, 1982 and These are classified under the name Ampocarboxypropionate and are sold under the trade name Miranol ^® :

_{R a -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (} R b) (R c) (CH 2 COO -) (A)

Where:

R _a represents a core alkyl group or heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group derived from R _a -COOH acid present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil,

R _b represents a b-hydroxyethyl group, and

R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;

Also,

Ra'-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (B ') (B)

Where

B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX ',

B 'is-(CH ₂ ) _z -Y', where z is 1 or 2,

X 'represents a -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH group or a hydrogen atom,

Y 'represents a -COOH or -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ H group,

R _a ′ represents an alkyl group of R _a -COOH acid present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil, or in particular a C ₁₇ alkyl group or an alkyl group in iso form thereof, or an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

These compounds are described in CTFA Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, Disodium coco ampodiacetate, Disodium lauroampodiacetate, Disodium capryl ampodiacetate, Disodium caprylamide foacetate, Disodium cocoam Podipropionate, disodium lauroampodipropionate, disodium capryl ampodipropionate, disodium carphylo ampodipropionate, lauroampodipropionate and cocoampodipropionate have.

By way of example, from Rhodia Inc. under the trade name of Miranol ^® C2M Concentrate may be mentioned coco cancer Fordyce acetate sold.

Preferably, (C _8-20 ) alkyl betaine, (C _8-20 alkyl) amido (C _6-8 alkyl) betaine and mixtures thereof among the other amphoteric mentioned above, ie zwitterionic surfactants, Can be used.

If present, the amphoteric, ie zwitterionic surfactant, is preferably present in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the wash and / or composition.

The care and / or cleaning compositions may be used for washing keratinous fibers, for example as shampoos, preferably conditioning shampoos, or may be used for conditioning keratinous fibers, for example as conditioners. have.

Preferably, the care composition may be used before or as a conditioner.

In the case of a conditioning shampoo, the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants.

Preferably, the care and / or cleaning composition is a rinse-out or leave-in conditioner comprising one or more cationic surfactants.

Care and / or wash compositions may also comprise one or more conventional additives well known in the art, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators; Ceramides; Silicon other than the organosilicon compound used in the composition for pre or post treatment; Oily fatty acid esters such as isopropyl myrilate; mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils such as a-olipines; Vitamin or provitamin; Cationic or amphoteric polymers; pH-stabilizers; Preservatives; And colorants.

Another aspect of the invention is a method of cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, which comprises one or more organosilicones described above in a cosmetically acceptable medium for said keratinous fibers. Cosmetic compositions comprising the compound and care and / or cleaning compositions are applied sequentially and consisted of rinsing or not rinsing after an optional leave-in time or after optional drying.

This treatment method can be applied to natural keratinous fibers or to cosmetically treated fibers such as firming, dyeing, bleaching or straightening.

In particular, the treatment method comprises treating the keratinous fibers with a pretreatment cosmetic composition comprising one or more organosilicon compounds as described above in a cosmetically acceptable medium and optionally leaving rib-in ( Rinse or not rinse after leave-in time or after optional drying, then apply the care and / or cleaning composition, then rinse after optional leave-in time or after selective drying, or It consists of not rinsing.

In this embodiment, the care and / or cleaning composition is preferably a rinsed composition.

According to one alternative form, the method of treatment comprises treating the keratinous fibers with a cleaning and / or care composition and rinsing or rinsing after an optional leave-in time or after optional drying. Then, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, after application of the post-treatment cosmetic composition comprising one or more of the organosilicon compounds described above, after an optional leave-in time or optionally drying After rinsing or not rinsing.

Preferably, the pretreatment composition is a composition which does not rinse, ie no rinsing process is performed after its application.

As indicated above, it is better to pretreat with a composition comprising an organosilicon compound.

The leave-in time of the pre- or post-treatment composition and the care and / or cleaning composition may be between a few seconds and 60 minutes, preferably between 30 seconds and 15 seconds. .

In all cases, the optionally present drying step can be carried out with a hood dryer, a hand operated hair dryer and / or a smoothing iron.

The composition of the present invention gives the hair a sense of mass, volume and satisfactory softness, and also makes it easier to shape the thin hair and to better arrange the curl shape of the curled hair.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention and do not limit the scope of the present invention.

Example 1

In the following examples, the styling effects obtained on fine hair and curled hair were evaluated using the compositions according to the invention which were treated prior to use of the conditioner.

1. Composition tested

Composition A was prepared with the same ingredients as in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

Composition A 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane 10 Lactic acid 4 water 100% total

2. Course

Composition A was applied to the hair of 20 models (10 thin hairs and 10 curled hairs). Without rinsing in half after a 30-second leave-in time, 0.8% AM of cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 1% by weight of quaternium 80 and 1.35% by weight of dipalmitoylethylhydroxy as active materials ethyl ammonium methosulfate the Ultradoux ^® Cerise et Nacre conditioner containing (dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate) was applied to the model. After 30 seconds, the hair was rinsed and dried.

3. Results

All ten testers with fine hair unanimously thought that the hair felt a significant volume compared to the use of the conditioner alone without the use of the pretreatment composition.

For those with 10 curls, 7 out of 10 reported better hair curls, and 8 out of 10 said hair curled.

Example 2

In the following examples, the styling effects obtained by applying the composition according to the invention before shampooing to fine hair and curled hair were evaluated.

1. Composition tested

Compositions B and C were prepared from the components in the table below and their amounts are expressed as weight percent of the total composition weight.

Composition B Composition C 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane ⁽¹⁾ 10 - Lactic acid 4 - Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.7 0.7 Potassium hydroxide - q.s. pH composition B = 9 Flavoring, coloring q.s. q.s. water To 100% by weight To 100% by weight

Composition B had a pH value of 9.

2. Course

For comparison, 6 μg of composition B was applied to one hair of six models and 6 μg of composition C was applied to the other hair. Without hair rinsing after 30 seconds of leave-in time, 6 g of Elseve Multivitamin 2-in-1 shampoo containing 15.5% sodium lauryl ether sulfate and 2.4 wt% coco betaine was added to both hairs. Was treated. The shampoo was then rinsed off and the hair dried.

3. Results

The expert group then performed comparative assessments, ranking from 1 to 5. The meaning of this grade is described in the table below.

Sensory evaluation Composition B + Shampoo Composition C + Shampoo
While rinsing Softness 3.3 2.4 flexibility 3.4 2.6 Wet hair
Tangle prevention 4.1 3.3 Softness 3.3 2.8

These results show that, when used prior to shampooing, the composition B according to the invention in wet hair is softer and better anti-tangling than composition C according to the invention.

These results also show that during the rinsing of the shampoo, the use of the composition B according to the invention before the shampoo is softer and more flexible than the use of the composition C according to the invention prior to the shampoo.

Example 3

In the examples below, the styling effects and cosmetic properties obtained by the composition used in the treatment prior to use of the conditioner were compared to the effect obtained when rinsed with water and conditioned simply without the pretreatment.

One. The tested composition

Composition A, identical to the composition used in Example 1, was prepared.

2. process

6 g of Composition A was treated to one hair of six washed models and for comparison, 6 g of water was treated to the other hair. Without rinsing after 30 seconds of leave-in time, containing 0.8% AM of cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 1 wt% quaternium 80 and 1.35 wt% dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium mesosulfate Six hairs of Loreal Professionnel Lumi Care conditioner was applied to both hairs. The conditioner was then rinsed off and the hair dried. This process was repeated three times in succession at an interval of 48 hours for 5 days. Evaluation was performed during this third application.

3. result

The expert group then performed comparative assessments and rated 1-5. The meaning of this class is shown in the table below.

Sensory evaluation Composition A + Conditioner Water + conditioner
Wet hair flexibility 3.1 2.4 Polish 3.7 3.3 Dry hair
Visual softness 3.4 2.8 Tactile softness 3.9 3.3

These results show that, on wet hair, the treatment of Composition A prior to the conditioner is more flexible to hair than when pretreated only with water.

These results also indicate that in dry hair, pretreatment with Composition A prior to the conditioner is more glossy and softer and more visually smooth when touched compared to pretreatment with only water.

It was also found that the hair was coated more uniformly, which gave the hair a greater volume.

Example 4

In the following examples, the styling effects and cosmetic properties obtained using the post-treatment composition according to the invention after the conditioner were compared with the case of post-treatment with only water after the conditioner.

One. The tested composition

The same composition A as described in Example 1 was prepared.

2. process

 6 g Loreal Profesionnel Lumi Care conditioner containing 0.8% AM cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 1 wt% quaternium 80 and 1.35 wt% dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium mesosulfate, It was applied to both hairs of six models which had been washed beforehand. After 30 seconds of leave-in time, 6 μg of Composition A was treated only on one part of the head, without intermediate rinsing, and 6 μg of water on the other for comparison. The hair is then rinsed and dried. This treatment was repeated three times at 48 hour intervals over five days. Evaluation was performed at the third application.

3. result

Lee, a group of experts conducted comparative assessments and rated 1-5 for specific criteria. The meaning of the grades is shown in the table below.

Sensory evaluation Conditioner + Composition A Conditioner + water
Wet hair Separability 2.5 1.8 flexibility 3.5 2.9 Dry hair
Tactile softness 3.2 2.5 Separability 2.7 2.1

These results indicate that for wet hair, the coating with composition A after conditioner treatment was better to separate and coat each hair better than with post-treatment only with water.

These results also show that, for dry hair, the post-treatment with Composition A after the conditioner is more flexible and softer when touched, and each hair separates better when touched, compared to the absence of such post-treatment.

In addition, it was found that the composition A used in the post-treatment after the conditioner gives the hair a larger volume than in the case of the post-treatment only with water.

Claims (23)

For use in the care, washing or care and cleaning compositions of keratinous fibers, In a cosmetically acceptable medium, A cosmetic composition comprising one or more organosilicon compounds selected from silanes of compounds of formula (III)

(III) Where R represents the same or different C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl radicals, n is an integer from 1 to 6, Cosmetic composition. delete delete The method of claim 1, The keratinous fiber is a cosmetic composition, characterized in that the human keratinous fiber. The method of claim 1, The keratinous fiber is a cosmetic composition, characterized in that the hair. delete The method of claim 1, Cosmetic composition, characterized in that the organosilicon compound is present in the range of 0.1 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. The method of claim 1, Cosmetic composition, characterized in that the organosilicon compound is present in the range of 1 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. The method of claim 1, The cosmetic composition additionally comprises one or more organic acids, The organic acid is selected from acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid, succinic acid, taurine, tartaric acid, arginine, glycine, glucuronic acid, gluconic acid and citric acid. Cosmetic composition. 10. The method of claim 9, The organic acid is a cosmetic composition, characterized in that present in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The method of claim 1, Cosmetic composition, characterized in that the care, washing or care and cleaning composition is a shampoo or conditioner. The method of claim 1, The cosmetic composition is a cosmetic composition, characterized in that the treatment before or after the treatment, cleaning, or care and cleaning composition for treatment. After the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1, 4 to 5, and 7 to 12 and the care, washing or care and cleaning composition are sequentially treated to keratinous fibers. , Including the process of rinsing or not rinsing, Cosmetic treatment method of keratinous fiber. 14. The method of claim 13, The keratinous fiber is treated with the cosmetic composition as a pretreatment cosmetic composition, With or without rinsing, After treating the care, cleaning or care and cleaning composition, Including rinsing or not rinsing, Cosmetic treatment method of keratinous fiber. 14. The method of claim 13, Treating the keratinous fibers with the care, wash, or care and wash compositions, With or without rinsing after a leave-in time step or after drying, Thereafter, the cosmetic composition is treated as a post-treatment cosmetic composition, comprising rinsing or not rinsing, Cosmetic treatment method of keratinous fiber. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1, 4 to 5, and 7 to 12, and a care, washing, or care and cleaning composition are sequentially treated with keratinous fibers. after, Rinsing or not rinsing after a leave-in time step or after drying, Cosmetic treatment method of keratinous fiber. 14. The method of claim 13, The keratinous fiber is treated with the cosmetic composition as a pretreatment cosmetic composition, With or without rinsing, Then rinsing or not rinsing after the leave-in time step or after drying after treating the care, wash, or care and wash composition, Cosmetic treatment method of keratinous fiber. 14. The method of claim 13, Treating the keratinous fibers with the care, wash, or care and wash compositions, With or without rinsing after leave-in time or after drying, Thereafter, treating the cosmetic composition as a post-treatment cosmetic composition and comprising rinsing or not rinsing after a leave-in time step or after drying, Cosmetic treatment method of keratinous fiber. 14. The method of claim 13, The method of cosmetic treatment of keratinous fiber, characterized in that the keratinous fiber is human keratinous fiber. 14. The method of claim 13, The method of cosmetic treatment of keratinous fiber, characterized in that the keratinous fiber is hair. The method of claim 1, Cosmetic composition, characterized in that the organosilicon compound is present in the range of 2.5 to 12% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. 10. The method of claim 9, The organic acid is a cosmetic composition, characterized in that present in an amount of 0.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. 10. The method of claim 9, The organic acid is a cosmetic composition, characterized in that present in an amount of 1 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.