KR101145879B1 - Dyeing Method for Complexed Woven or Knitted Fabric with metallic yarn and polyester yarn and the Fabric thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method of dyeing knitted fabrics using metallic yarns and polyester yarns and to knitted fabrics produced by such methods, and in particular, metallic yarns and elastic modulus of 400 to 600 kg / mm ² and elongation of 30 to 40%. Weaving step of weaving knitted fabrics using atmospheric dyeing polyester yarn as a raw material; A salt bath manufacturing step of preparing a salt bath by adding a dye solution having a dye dispersed in water; The woven knitted fabric was put into the prepared salt bath, and the temperature of the salt bath was increased from 35 to 45 ° C. at a rate of 1.2 to 1.5 ° C./min for 30 to 50 minutes, and the heated salt bath was heated to 15 to 25 ° C. at 90 to 100 ° C. Holding for minutes to dye the knit fabric; And to wash the dyed knitted fabric; and a method for producing a dyed knitted fabric comprising a. The dyed knitted fabric thus prepared has a light reflection reduction rate of 20% to 30%.

Description

Dyeing Method for Complexed Woven or Knitted Fabric with metallic yarn and polyester yarn and the Fabric

The present invention relates to a method of dyeing a knitted fabric using metallic yarn and polyester yarn as a raw material and a knitted fabric produced by such a method.

The present invention relates to a method of dyeing knitted fabrics woven from metallic yarns and polyester yarns by woven, twisted or covered raw materials, and more specifically, to woven yarns, twisted or covered raw materials of metallic yarns and atmospheric dyed polyester yarns. Knitted fabrics made of metallic yarns and polyester yarns, which are characterized in that even if the knitted fabrics are dyed through an atmospheric dyeing process using a disperse dye, the metallic luster is maintained without damage to metallic yarns or dyes contaminated with metallic yarns. Relates to a method of dyeing.

Metallic yarns comprise a metallic film member formed of a resin coating layer on one surface of a polyester yarn transparent base film and a metallic layer on which gold, silver, and copper are deposited. Then, the metallic film members are laminated together using an adhesive. An adhesive bond layer is formed in the part which abuts against each other, and is laminated | stacked so that a transparent base film may be exposed to the outside. These metallic yarns are woven or knitted after weaving, weaving, and covering fibers such as cotton, wool, silk, nylon, acrylic, polyester, etc., and have excellent gloss and static shielding properties. It is commercially used for many purposes, such as a functional material.

Conventionally, the dyeing method of dyeing polyester yarn first, followed by weaving, weaving, and covering process, and then weaving it into a knitted fabric is used. However, this method has undergone many processes, resulting in low efficiency and productivity, and high manufacturing cost. I lost my competitive edge. On the other hand, after the dyeing method, that is, the method of producing a knitted fabric by weaving the raw material metallic yarn and polyester yarn as a raw material has the following problems. Unlike other materials that are braided, twisted, and covered together with metallic yarns, polyesters are generally dyed for 60 to 80 minutes at high temperature and high pressure conditions of a final temperature of 120 to 130 ° C. using dispersion dyes. Dyeing under these conditions may cause peeling of the metallic layer, staining of the dye into the metallic layer, or deformation on the knitted fabric after dyeing, thereby degrading the quality of the knitted fabric and hardly showing the metallic shiny shine.

In order to solve this problem, a method of preventing peeling or discoloration of metallic yarn by using a heat-resistant polyurethane material as an adhesive by improving the manufacturing method of metallic yarn (registered patent: 10-955517) has been proposed, but the polyester dye component is contaminated with metallic yarn. It was not a fundamental solution to being. On the other hand, a method of preventing dyeing in the case of dyeing back with a disperse dye by forming a resin coating layer on the surface of the metallic layer with an epoxy resin or melamine resin (registered patent 10-656184), but economical by additional process However, it did not solve the problem of deformation.

 The present invention maintains the sharpness without deterioration of the quality of the metallic yarn peeling, deformation or contamination with metallic yarn even when weaving a knitted fabric from the yarn yarn, twisted yarn, and covering yarn of metallic yarn and polyester yarn and then dyed with disperse dye in the post dyeing process. To provide a method and a knitted fabric thereof.

In order to solve the above problems, the present invention is a weaving step of weaving a knitted fabric using metallic yarn and atmospheric dyed polyester yarn having an elastic modulus of 400 ~ 600kg / mm ² and elongation of 30 to 40% as a raw material; A salt bath manufacturing step of preparing a salt bath by adding a dye solution having a dye dispersed in water; The woven knitted fabric was put into the prepared salt bath, and the temperature of the salt bath was increased from 35 to 45 ° C. at a rate of 1.2 to 1.5 ° C./min for 30 to 50 minutes, and the heated salt bath was heated to 15 to 25 ° C. at 90 to 100 ° C. Holding for minutes to dye the knit fabric; It provides a method of producing a dyed knitted fabric comprising; and washing the dyed knitted fabric.

In addition, the method of manufacturing the dyed knitted fabric of the present invention is optionally treated for 15 to 25 minutes at 75 ~ 85 ℃ using a deoiling agent prior to the step of dyeing the knitted fabric, before putting the woven knitted fabric in a salt bath It may further comprise a method for producing a dyed knitted fabric, characterized in that it further comprises a pretreatment step.

The dye solution preferably further comprises one compound selected from glacial acetic acid, a dispersant, a softener and an antifouling agent or a mixture of two or more thereof.

The present invention also provides a dyed knit fabric having a light reflectance reduction rate of 20% to 30%.

Knitting fabrics woven from the yarns of plywood, twisted yarn and covering yarns of atmospheric dyeing polyester yarns and metallic yarns as in the present invention may be peeled, deformed or metallic layers even when dyed for 15 to 20 minutes at a final temperature of 90-100 ° C. with a disperse dye. As it does not cause dye contamination, it can maintain the vivid luster and quality peculiar to Metallic.

1 is a photograph of dyeing of a knitted fabric using a general polyester raw material.
Figure 2 is a dye photograph of the knitted fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings. The terms or words used in this specification and claims are not to be construed as limiting in their usual or dictionary meanings, and the inventors may appropriately define the concept of terms in order to best explain their invention in the best way possible. It should be interpreted as meaning and concept corresponding to the technical idea of the present invention based on the principle that the present invention.

Method for producing a dyed knitted fabric of the present invention is a weaving step of weaving a knitted fabric using metallic yarn and atmospheric dyed polyester yarn having an elastic modulus of 400 ~ 600kg / mm ² and elongation of 30 to 40% as a raw material; A salt bath manufacturing step of preparing a salt bath by adding a dye solution having a dye dispersed in water; The woven knitted fabric was put into the prepared salt bath, and the temperature of the salt bath was increased from 35 to 45 ° C. at a rate of 1.2 to 1.5 ° C./min for 30 to 50 minutes, and the heated salt bath was heated to 15 to 25 ° C. at 90 to 100 ° C. Holding for minutes to dye the knit fabric; And washing the dyed knitted fabric.

First, weaving a knitted fabric using metallic yarns and atmospheric dyed polyester yarns having an elastic modulus of 400 to 600 kg / mm ² and an elongation of 30 to 40% as raw materials.

Metallic yarn used in the present invention by coating a metal on the polymer film is made to about 0.15 ~ 5mm through a slitting process, or is coated with a metal on the general yarn. Preferred metals include gold, silver, aluminum, nickel, germanium, and the like, but are not limited thereto, and may be used without particular limitation as long as the metallic material has a unique color or electrical conductivity. As the polymer film coated with metal, polymer materials such as nylon, polyester, polyurethane, and polyethylene may be used, and general yarns may be made of natural fibers such as cotton, wool, hemp, silk, or nylon, polyester, acrylic, polyurethane, etc. Fibers or semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, lyocell, etc. may be used, but are not limited thereto. As a method of coating a metal on a general yarn, a method known in the art may be used, such as ion plating, electroless plating, sputtering, coating, and spraying.

Atmospheric-dyed polyester yarns having an elastic modulus of 400 to 600 kg / mm ² and an elongation of 30 to 40% are used in the present invention by changing the orientation and crystal structure of the molecular chain by ultrafast spinning, hydrocarbon derivatives by copolymerization, The thing which introduce | transduced a copolymer material, such as an aromatic hydrocarbon derivative, into the main chain, and polyester fiber manufactured by mixing and spinning a polyethylene terephthalate and a polytrimethylene terephthalate can be used.

When the elastic modulus of the atmospheric pressure dyed polyester yarn of the present invention is less than 400kg / mm ² mechanical properties are lowered, the elasticity of the fabric is lowered, when the elastic modulus exceeds 600kg / mm ² is not excellent in dyeing at low temperatures There is a problem. In addition, it is preferable that the atmospheric dyeing polyester yarn by the manufacturing method has an elongation of 30 to 40%.

 The method of manufacturing knitted fabrics using metallic yarns and polyester yarns is not particularly limited, but is formed of a single strand through known weaving process, covering process or twisting process, and it can be manufactured by weaving. have. Among the knitted fabrics, the woven fabric is woven into tissue such as plain weave, twill weave or runner weave by the existing weaving method using the prepared yarn as part of weft or warp yarn. The knitted fabric may be knitted by varying the structure of both sides, single, fried rice, towels, cotton, jacquard and the like by a knitting method such as sweater, daimaru, tricot, etc. according to the use. Any of these knitted fabrics may be used.

 In more detail about the twisting process, the use of the fabric in the range of 350 ~ 700TPM in the direction of "S" or "Z" according to a known process by the twisting machine to the metallic yarn and atmospheric dyeing polyester yarn by MX method It is twisted and followed. Specifications of polyester yarns are used in the range of 75D ~ 150D, metallic yarns are used in the range of 0.15 ~ 5.0mm, can be a 1: 1 or 1: 2 twisting atmospheric dyeing polyester yarn compared to metallic yarns.

 It is also possible to twist the metallic yarns by twisting them together with a twist yarn together with the atmospheric dyeing polyester yarns and other fibers as auxiliary yarns, or to produce a covering yarn.

After that, a dye solution in which the dye is dispersed in water is added to prepare a salt bath.

Dyeing can directly fabricate the woven knitted fabric directly back dyeing in place of the method of dyeing in the state of the yarn as a raw material, while producing a high-quality fabric while shortening the process.

In the present invention, C.I. Disperse Yellow 54, C.I. Disperse Red 60, C.I. It was found that it is preferable to use Disperse Blue 56, Disperse Black D-RE, or the like alone or in combination as appropriate.

The dye solution may contain a small amount of glacial acetic acid, a dispersing agent (polyoxyethylene oxide Alkylalcohol), a softening agent (emulsion and dispersion of ester-based elastomeric polymer), antifouling agent (polyoxyethylene nonyl phenyl ether) have.

In addition, the manufacturing method of the present invention may optionally include a pretreatment step of treating 15 to 25 minutes at 75 ~ 85 ℃ using a degreasing agent (Fatty alcohol polyglycol ester and ether) before the woven knitted fabric is added to the salt bath. Can be.

Then, the woven knitted fabric is put into the prepared salt bath, and the temperature of the salt bath is increased from 35 to 45 ° C. at a rate of 1.2 to 1.5 ° C./min for 30 to 50 minutes, and the heated salt bath is heated at 90 to 100 ° C. Hold for 15-25 minutes to dye the knit fabric.

 The amount of dye used is 3 ~ 5% (owf 3 ~ 5%) to the weight of the fiber and the amount of the dye bath is 20 times the weight of the fiber (bath ratio 20: 1) at 35 ~ 45 ℃ after putting the woven fabric in the salt bath. The temperature is raised for 30 to 50 minutes at a rate of 1.2 to 1.5 ° C / min and the final temperature is maintained at 90 to 100 ° C for 15 to 20 minutes depending on the dyeing color.

The final temperature of general dyeing is above 120 ° C., because the general polyester yarns do not have a commercial level of dyeing below 120 ° C. However, the dyeing of the present invention is carried out at a final temperature of 90 ~ 100 ℃, which in the present invention using an atmospheric dyed polyester yarn having an elastic modulus of 400 ~ 600kg / mm ² and elongation of 30 ~ 40% Commercial levels of dyeing are possible at final temperatures of 100 ° C. In addition, the metallic yarn may be deformed by heating at 120 ° C. or higher. In the present invention, since the dyeing at the final temperature of the low temperature is possible, the polyester part is not contaminated with metallic yarn and the polyester part has excellent color development, but the metallic yarn has a unique sparkling property. Maintaining the gloss can express the characteristics of the raw material as it is.

The present invention also provides a dyed knitted fabric having a light reflection reduction rate of 20% to 30% produced by the above production method.

Light reflectance reduction rate of the present invention can be calculated by measuring the reflectance ratio before and after dyeing, as shown in the following equation, it is possible to quantify the gloss retention of metallic yarn through this light reflection reduction rate. The light reflection reduction rate of metallic yarn of the dyed knitted fabric of the present invention corresponds to 20 to 30% is very excellent. This is because it is possible to dye at the final temperature of the low temperature, because it is not contaminated with metallic yarns, the polyester part has excellent color development, but metallic yarns can maintain the characteristic shiny luster, thereby expressing the characteristics of raw materials. This light reflection reduction rate can be measured using a spectrophotometer.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to Examples. However, embodiments according to the present invention can be modified in many different forms, the scope of the present invention should not be construed as limited to the embodiments described below. The embodiments of the present invention are provided to more completely explain the present invention to those skilled in the art.

Example

Example 1. 400 kg / mm elastic modulus ² , Low temperature dyeing method using atmospheric dyeing polyester yarn with 38% elongation

Modulus of elasticity 400kg / mm ² , Atmospheric dyed polyester yarn (FDY 110D / 36F CBR, Ji Young) with 38% elongation and metallic yarn (1/100 “, polyester metallic yarn, MX type, Seoheung Industrial Co., Ltd.) were simultaneously put into 400TPM for yarn Manufacture. This yarn was used to weave a single knit fabric with a Daimaru loom.

 CI Disperse Yellow 54 (Lumacron Yellow E3G), CI Disperse Red 60 (Lumacron Red FB), CI. Disperse Blue 56 (Lumarcron Blue FBLE), Disperse Black D-RE (Lumacron Black) Dye and Glacial Acetic Acid 0.5g / L, Dispersant (Polyoxyethylene oxide Alkylalcohol) 0.5g / L and Softener (Ester) A salt bath was prepared by adding 0.5 g / L of an emulsion obtained by emulsifying and dispersing the elastic polymer and 0.5 g / L of an antifouling agent (polyoxyethylene nonyl phenyl ether) to water.

In order to dye yellow, CI Disperse Yellow 54 and CI Disperse Red 60 were mixed, and to disperse pink, CI Disperse Red 60 1.5g / L and CI Disperse Yellow 54 were mixed and used. In the case of black dyeing, a dye mixed with Disperse Black D-RE and CI Disperse RED 60 was used. The amount of dye was prepared at 3% (owf) of the fiber weight, and the amount of the dye bath was 20 times the weight of the fiber. (Bath ratio 20: 1) After the woven fabric was put in the salt bath, 1.5 ° C./min of 40 ° C. was added. The temperature was raised for 40 minutes at a rate and the final temperature was maintained at 100 ° C for 20 minutes. The dyed saline was dried after washing with water.

Example 2. 600kg / mm elastic modulus ² , Low temperature dyeing method using atmospheric dyeing polyester yarn with 33% elongation

Modulus of elasticity 600kg / mm ² , Atmospheric dyeing polyester yarn (FDY 110D / 36F CBR) A dyed woven fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that it was used.

Comparative Example 1. 900kg / mm elastic modulus ² , Low temperature dyeing method using general polyester yarn with 28% elongation

Modulus of elasticity 900kg / mm ² , General polyester yarn (FDY 110D / 36F TBR) of 28% elongation A dyed woven fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that it was used.

Comparative example  2. Modulus  900 kg Of mm ² , General with 28% elongation Polyester yarn  High temperature dyeing method used

Modulus of elasticity 1000kg / mm ² , Manufacture yarn by 400TPM of yarn using metallic polyester (1/100 “, polyester metallic yarn, MX type, Seoheung industry) simultaneously using general polyester yarn (FDY 110D / 36F TBR) with 28% elongation. . This yarn was used to weave a single knit fabric with a Daimaru loom.

The composition of the dye and the amount of the additive and the composition of the other salt bath was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1. However, the woven knitted fabric was put in a salt bath and then heated at 40 ° C. at a rate of 2 ° C./min for 40 minutes, and the final temperature was maintained at 120 ° C. for 40 minutes. The dyed saline was dried after washing with water.

Comparative example  3. Modulus  500 kg Of mm ² , 36% height Atmospheric pressure  dyeing Polyester yarn  High temperature dyeing method used

Modulus of elasticity 500kg / mm ² , It is the same as Comparative Example 2 except for using a pressure-dyed polyester yarn (FDY 110D / 36F CBR, Ji-Jang Yarn) of 36% elongation.

Test Example  1. Property measurement

 Washing fastness, friction fastness, light reflectance reduction rate of the dyed knitted fabric according to the present invention was shown in Table 1 below.

Wash fastness and friction fastness were evaluated based on the standard gray table (gray scale), and the grades were expressed as grades 1-5. Here, the first grade is the lowest (bad), the fifth grade is the highest (good).

Appearance observation was evaluated after staining the knitted fabric according to each Example and Comparative Example whether the contamination of the metallic yarn layer by the dye and whether the peeling of the film layer.

Light reflectance reduction rate was calculated by measuring the reflectance before and after the dyeing of metallic yarn using a spectrophotometer CM-3600d (Konica Minolta).

Color fastness Friction fastness % Of light reflection reduction Appearance observation Example 1 4 4 25 Excellent metallic sharpness Example 2 5 5 28 Excellent metallic sharpness Comparative Example 1 2 2 43 Metallic layer contamination Comparative Example 2 4 4 49 Metallic layer peeling Comparative Example 3 3 4 43 Metallic layer peeling

Modulus of elasticity 400 ~ 600kg / mm ² , Knitted fabrics using atmospheric dyed polyester with 30 to 40% elongation have better washing fastness and friction fastness than those made from ordinary polyester as raw materials, and dyes are hardly dyed on the metallic yarn side in the dyeing process. It has a low light reflection reduction rate and maintains its distinctive shiny characteristics. In case of using general polyester, the dyeability of polyester is poor at low temperature dyeing, so it has low washing fastness and friction fastness.In high temperature dyeing, metallic characteristic glittering property is reduced due to peeling of metallic film layer or contamination by dye. It was.

Test Example  2. Surface observation

Photographs of the fabrics prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were taken and shown in FIGS. 1-2. Figure 2 is a fabric according to Example 1, it can be seen that the light reflectivity of the metallic yarn is superior to Figure 1 of the fabric prepared in Comparative Example 1.

Claims (4)

A weaving step of weaving a knitted fabric using metallic yarn and atmospheric dyed polyester yarn having an elastic modulus of 400 to 600 kg / mm ² and an elongation of 30 to 40% as a raw material;
A salt bath manufacturing step of preparing a salt bath by adding a dye solution having a dye dispersed in water;
The woven knitted fabric was put into the prepared salt bath, and the temperature of the salt bath was increased from 35 to 45 ° C. at a rate of 1.2 to 1.5 ° C./min for 30 to 50 minutes, and the heated salt bath was heated to 15 to 25 ° C. at 90 to 100 ° C. Holding for minutes to dye the knit fabric; And
Washing the dyed knitted fabric; method of producing a dyed knitted fabric comprising a. The method of claim 1,
The method of manufacturing the dyed knitted fabric further includes a pretreatment step of treating the knitted fabric with a deoiling agent for 15 to 25 minutes using a deoiling agent before the dyeing of the knitted fabric. Method for producing a dyed knitted fabric, characterized in that. The method of claim 1,
The dye solution is a method of producing a dyed knit fabric, characterized in that it further comprises one or a mixture of two or more compounds selected from glacial acetic acid, dispersants, softeners and antifouling agents. A dyed knitted fabric having a light reflection reduction rate of 20% to 30% produced by the method of any one of claims 1 to 3.

Images