KR0123397B1 - Method of manufacture for padding - Google Patents

Method of manufacture for padding

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Publication number
KR0123397B1
KR0123397B1 KR1019940032790A KR19940032790A KR0123397B1 KR 0123397 B1 KR0123397 B1 KR 0123397B1 KR 1019940032790 A KR1019940032790 A KR 1019940032790A KR 19940032790 A KR19940032790 A KR 19940032790A KR 0123397 B1 KR0123397 B1 KR 0123397B1
Authority
KR
South Korea
Prior art keywords
wick
felt
denier
short fibers
heat
Prior art date
Application number
KR1019940032790A
Other languages
Korean (ko)
Other versions
KR960020834A (en
Inventor
강연원
Original Assignee
강연원
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Publication date
Application filed by 강연원 filed Critical 강연원
Priority to KR1019940032790A priority Critical patent/KR0123397B1/en
Publication of KR960020834A publication Critical patent/KR960020834A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of KR0123397B1 publication Critical patent/KR0123397B1/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/26—Shoulder-pads; Hip-pads; Bustles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/02—Layered materials
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/08—Heat resistant; Fire retardant
    • A41D31/085—Heat resistant; Fire retardant using layered materials
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H42/00—Multi-step production lines for making clothes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
    • A41H43/04—Joining garment parts or blanks by gluing or welding ; Gluing presses
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relate to a chest canvas which is a material inserted between outer cloth and lining cloth. This invention provides excellent chester canvas which is human friendly designed and good in heat resistance, restoring force, and launderability for making cloth. This invention simplifies the process and does not require the conventional process such as needle punching on combined chester canvas and felt. This process uses new felts which is made by heat resistant (1-3 denier) polyester staple fiber (100%) or mixture of polyester staple fiber (80-90%) and nylon fiber (0.8-3.0 denier, 10-20%).

Description

양복심지 및 그 제조방법Suit wick and manufacturing method

제 1도는 본 발명의 분해 사시도.1 is an exploded perspective view of the present invention.

제 2도는 본 발명의 이면 사시도.2 is a rear perspective view of the present invention.

제 3도는 본 발명에서 사용하는 성형틀의 단면도.3 is a cross-sectional view of the molding die used in the present invention.

제 4도는 본 발명의 사용상태도임.4 is a state diagram used in the present invention.

제 5도는 종래 양복심지의 사시도.5 is a perspective view of a conventional clothes wick.

본 발명은 양복상의를 봉제할때 외비 복지와 내피(안감) 사이에 들어가는 부재로서 입체적인 가슴바데심지(chest piece, chest canvas, 또는 작심) 및 그 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a three-dimensional chest piece (chest piece, chest canvas, or planting) and a method of manufacturing the same as a member that enters between the welfare and the endothelial (lining) when sewing a garment.

종래의 가슴바데 심지(이하 양복심지라함)는 제 5도와 같이 모심지(51)를 일정한 모양으로 재단하고, 그 상부 주연의 1개소와 하부 주연의 1개소를 각각 절개하되 상부 주연의 절개부(52)는 벌려서 그 이면에 덧붙임천(53)을 대로 지그재그형으로 얼기 설기 재봉하고, 하부주연의 절개부(54)는 그 절개부를 약간 서로 겹쳐지게 하여 역시 지그재그형으로 얼기설기 재봉하여 그 이면에 폴리에스테르 단섬유(polyester staple fiber) 70~80%에 비스코스레이온(Viscose rayon) 단섬유 20~30%를 혼합제조한 펠트(Felt)(55) (이하 종래의 펠트라 함)를 중첩시켜서 재봉기로 지그재그형으로 니들 펀칭(needle punching) 하여 양복심지(50)를 제조하였기 때문에 인체의 어깨부분 굴곡면에서 가슴에 이르는 굴곡면에 어느 정도 맞게 보정은 되었으나, 양복 저고리를 장시간 입고 다니거나, 비를 맞은 후 또는 세탁하는 과정에서 변형되어, 원상태의 굴곡면으로 복원되지 못하게 되고, 또한 종래의 펠트(55)의 재료가 폴리에스테르 단섬유와 비스코스레이온 단섬유를 혼합 제조한 것이므로, 펠트의 섬유가 뭉치거나 양복심지의 외측으로 빠져나오게 되는 결점도 있었으며, 또한 종래의 펠트(55)는 그 기능상 일정한 두께(예컨데 2㎜~3.5㎜)를 유지하도록 할 경우 두껍고 무거운 결점도 있었다.Conventional breast bad wick (hereinafter referred to as suit wick) cuts the wick 51 in a constant shape as shown in FIG. 5, and cuts one place of the upper circumference and one place of the lower circumference, respectively, 52) open the sewing cloth 53 on the back side of the zigzag shape to sew and sew, and the lower periphery of the cut portion 54 overlaps the cut portions a little, and also sew the seolgi seolgi to sew on the other side of the poly Felt 55 (hereinafter referred to as a conventional felt) made by mixing 70 to 80% of polyester staple fiber and 20 to 30% of viscose rayon short fiber is piled up and zigzag with a sewing machine. Since the suit wick 50 was manufactured by needle punching into a shape, it was corrected to some extent on the curved surface from the shoulder flexion surface of the human body to the chest. After being hit or deformed during washing, it is impossible to restore the original curved surface, and the material of the conventional felt 55 is made of a mixture of polyester short fibers and short viscose rayon fibers. In addition, there was a defect that comes out of the outer wick, and the conventional felt 55 also had a thick and heavy defects if the function to maintain a constant thickness (for example 2mm ~ 3.5mm).

또한 종래의 양복심지(50)는 모심지(51)와 펄트(55)를 중첩하여 재봉기로 지그재그형으로 얼기설기하게 니들 펀칭하였기 때문에, 펀치구멍(56')으로 인하여 전체적으로 그면이 매끄럽지 못하였고, 더욱이 니들 펀칭한 재봉사(56)가 모심지(51)의 표면에 나와 있어서 그 심지(51)의 표면과 양복상의의 외피 복지의 내면이 자연스럽게 접하지 못하게 되고 또한 양복상의 봉제후의 양복상의의 복지 표면이 매끄럽지 못하여 자연스럽게 굴국면을 유지할 수 없는 결점도 있었다.In addition, since the conventional suit wick 50 was needle punched in a zigzag fashion by overlapping the mother core 51 and the pulp 55, the entire surface was not smooth due to the punch hole 56 '. The needle-punched sewing thread 56 emerges on the surface of the wick 51 so that the surface of the wick 51 does not naturally come into contact with the inner surface of the garment welfare on the garment, and the welfare surface of the garment on the garment after sewing on the garment There was also a flaw that could not be maintained smoothly because of the smoothness.

본 발명은 상술한 결점을 해결하기 위하여 다년간 연구 실험을 거쳐서 본 발명을 완성한 것으로 본 발명의 목적은 양복상의를 봉재함에 있어서, 어깨부분의 굴곡면에서 가슴 부분의 굴곡면에 이르는 굴곡면을 인체공학적으로 또한 봉제기술상 가능한한 자연스럽게 잘 맞는 양복심지를 제공하는데 있다.The present invention has been completed the present invention after many years of research experiments to solve the above-described drawbacks, the object of the present invention in sewing a garment, the curved surface from the curved surface of the shoulder to the curved surface of the chest ergonomic In addition, it is to provide a suit wick that fits as naturally as possible in sewing technology.

본 발명의 또 다른 목적은 내열셩이 있고 내세탁성이 있으며 복원력이 양호한 양복심지를 제공하는데 있다.Another object of the present invention is to provide a clothes wick with heat resistance, washing resistance and good restoring force.

본 발명의 또 다른 목적은 양복심지를 제조함에 있어 종래 모심지와 펠트를 중첩하여 니들 펀칭하거나 지그재그로 얼기설기 봉제하는 공정을 거치지 않게 함으로서 그 공정을 단순화 하는데 있다.Still another object of the present invention is to simplify the process of manufacturing a suit wick so as not to go through the process of needle punching or sewing with a zigzag stitch by overlapping the conventional wick and the felt.

본 발명에서는 상기 과제를 해결하기 위하여 본 발명에서는 1~3데니어 정도의 열에 강한 폴리에스테르 단섬유 100%로 제조한 펠트 또는 1~3데니어 정도의 열에 강한 폴리에스테르 단섬유 80~90%와 0.8~3데니어 정도의 나일론 단섬유 10~20%를 혼합하여 공지의 방법으로 제조한 펠트를 선택하였다.In the present invention, in order to solve the above problems, in the present invention, a felt made of 100% polyester short fibers resistant to 1 to 3 deniers or 80 to 90% polyester short fibers resistant to 1 to 3 deniers and 0.8 to 10 to 20% of nylon short fibers of about 3 denier were mixed to select a felt prepared by a known method.

종래의 펠트(55)는 3~6데니어 정도의 폴리에스테르 단섬유 70~80%와 비스코스 레이온 단섬유 20~30%를 혼합하여 제조한 것인데 비스코스 레이온 단섬유를 혼합하였기 때문에, 어느 정도의 복원력을 갖기는 하였으나, 120~150℃ 이상의 고온으로 압착하면 복원력이 저하되고 또한 투박하며 특히 모심지(51)와 중첩하여 니들 펀칭가공을 거치면 그면이 거칠어서 양복 저고리 심지로는 적합하지 못하였으므로, 본 발명에서는 그 용도에 따라 두께가 얇고 복원력이 약한 양복저고리 심지용 펠트는 1~3데니어 정도의 내열성 폴리스테르 단섬유 100%로 제조하고, 두께가 약간 두껍고 복원력이 강한 양복저고리 심지용 펠트는 1~3데니어 정도의 내열성 폴리에스테르 단섬유 80~90%와 0.8~3데니어 정도의 나일론 단섬유 10~20%를 혼합하여 제조한 펠트를 사용하게 되는데, 나일론 단섬유를 혼합제조한 펠트는 100%의 폴리에스테르 단섬유만으로 제조한 펠트와 비교할때 보다 복원력이 우수하고 실크와 같이 매끄럽고 부드러운 감촉을 갖게 된다.Conventional felt 55 is manufactured by mixing 70 to 80% of polyester short fibers of about 3 to 6 deniers and 20 to 30% of viscose rayon short fibers. Although it has, but when pressed at a high temperature of 120 ~ 150 ℃ or more, the restoring force is lowered, and also coarse, especially when the needle punching process overlaps with the wick 51, the surface is rough, so it is not suitable as a suit wick wick, the present invention According to the application, the thickness of the cloth for woven chopstick wicks, which are thin and weak in resilience, is manufactured from 100% of heat-resistant polycarbonate short fibers of 1 to 3 denier, and the thickness of the cloth for woven wick wicks, which is slightly thick and strong, is resilient. Felt made by mixing 80 ~ 90% of heat resistant polyester short fiber of denier degree and 10 ~ 20% of nylon short fiber of 0.8 ~ 3 denier is used. Felt made of mixed short fibers is more resilient than silk made of only 100% polyester short fibers and has a silky smooth texture.

본 발명은 그 실시예에 따라 상세히 설명한다.The invention is described in detail in accordance with its embodiments.

[실시예 1]Example 1

공지된 모심지(2)를 제 1도에 도시된 바와 같이 가슴바데의 모양으로 좌우 1쌍을 재단하되 모심지(2)의 상부 1개소를 절개하여 벌어지게 하되 절개부(3)이면에 덧붙임천(4)의 일측에만 접착제를 발라 덧붙여 놓고 모심지(2)의 하부 1개소는 절개부(5)를 겹쳐지게 준비한다.Cut the left and right pairs of the known cultivars 2 into the shape of the breast bade as shown in FIG. 1, but cut open the upper one part of the cultivars 2, but add them to the back side of the incision section 3. An adhesive is applied only to one side of the cloth 4, and the lower one portion of the chamfer 2 is prepared to overlap the cutout 5.

1~3데니어의 내열성 폴리스테르 단섬유 100%로 제조한 펠트(6) 전면에 접착제(7)를 접착제 도포용 로울러로 도포한 후 열풍 건조기에서 약 50~60% 정도 건조한 후 펠트(6)의 이면에 아크릭 도트 프린팅(acrylic dot printing)(8)하여 가슴바데 모양으로 좌우 1쌍이 펠트(6)를 재단한다.Apply the adhesive (7) to the entire surface of the felt (6) made of 100% 1 ~ 3 denier heat-resistant polyether short fiber with a roller for applying an adhesive, and then dry it in a hot air dryer for about 50 to 60%, and then Acrylic dot printing (8) on the back side, and the left and right pairs of left and right pelts 6 are cut in the shape of a chest bar.

양복저고리의 어깨부분의 굴곡면에서 가슴부분의 굴곡면에 이르는 굴곡면 즉, 인체공학적으로 설계된 어깨부분의 외향만곡부(A)와 가슴부분의 외향만곡부(B)의 요철 형상을 밑판 금형(11)의 상면에는 음각하고, 윗판 금형(12)의 저면에는 반대로 양각한 세팅용 금형내에 상기 펠트(6)와 상기 모심지(2)를 중첩하되, 펠트(6)의 이면 즉 아크릭 도프 프린팅(8)한 면이 저면이 되게 하여 수증기와 열로 가압하여 셋팅하게 되는데, 밑판금형(11)에서는 130℃~150℃의 수증기를 뿜어주고, 윗판금형(12)에서는 윗판금형에 내장된 히터에서 160℃~190℃의 고열로 가열함과 동시에 6㎏/㎠의 압력으로 15초 내지 20초간 가열 가압하여 양복심지(1)를 성형하게 되며, 이때 가열가압에 의하여 펠트(6)의 내면에 도포된 접착제(7)가 서서히 녹아서 모심지(2)에 영구 접착된다.The uneven shape of the curved surface extending from the shoulder surface of the garment groin to the curved surface of the chest, that is, the ergonomically designed outwardly curved portion (A) and outwardly curved portion (B) of the chest portion, the base plate mold (11). The felt 6 and the chamfer 2 are overlapped in the setting die which is engraved on the upper surface of the mold, and the lower surface of the upper mold 12 is inversely embossed, and the back surface of the felt 6, that is, the acryl dope printing 8. One side becomes the bottom surface and is set by pressurizing with water vapor and heat. In the bottom plate mold (11), the steam of 130 ° C. to 150 ° C. is discharged, and in the top plate mold (12), 160 ° C. to 190 ° in the heater built in the top plate mold. At the same time heating to a high temperature of ℃ and at the same time by heating and pressing for 15 seconds to 20 seconds at a pressure of 6㎏ / ㎠ to form the core wick (1), wherein the adhesive applied to the inner surface of the felt (6) (7) ) Is gradually melted and permanently bonded to the chamfer (2).

위와 같은 실시예 1에 따라 제조한 양복심지(1)는 수증기와 열 및 기계적 압력으로 성형함으로 인하여 스폰징(sponging) 가공이 되므로 양복심지(1)의 성형이 반영구적으로 파머넨트(Permanent)되고 보형성(保型性)이 양호하여 양복저고리를 장시간 입거나, 비를 맞거나, 또는 세탁후에도 쉽게 변형되지 않으며, 가볍고 부드러운 감촉이 장기간 유지되며, 또한 제품의 생산성이 제고되고 경제성을 갖을 뿐 아니라, 특히 주문복을 생산함에 있어서 모든 패턴에 맞는 제품의 생산이 가능한 점등이 있어 매우 유용한 발명인 것임.Since the suit wick (1) manufactured according to Example 1 is subjected to a sponge process by molding with steam and heat and mechanical pressure, the forming of the suit wick (1) is permanently permanent and permanent. Its good formability prevents it from being easily deformed even after long periods of time, in rain or after washing, and maintains a light and soft texture for a long time. It also improves productivity and economy. In particular, it is a very useful invention in that it is possible to produce products that fit all patterns in the production of custom clothes.

[실시예 2]Example 2

상기 실시예 1에 따라 제조한 양복심지(1)보다 약간 두꺼우면서 복원력이 강한 양복 저고리 심지용 펠트(6)를 제조할 경우에는 1~3데니어 정도의 내열성 폴리에스테 단섬유 80~90%와 0.8~3데니어 정도의 나일론 단섬유 10~20%를 혼합하여 제조한 펠트(6)를 사용하여 실시예 1과 동일한 공정을 거쳐서 제조하게 된다.In the case of manufacturing the clothes low ring wick felt (6) slightly thicker than the clothes wick (1) prepared according to Example 1, 80 to 90% of heat-resistant polyester short fibers of about 1-3 denier and 0.8 It is manufactured through the same process as in Example 1 using the felt 6 prepared by mixing 10 to 20% of nylon short fibers of about 3 denier.

상기 실시예 2에 따라 제조한 양복심지(1)는 실시예 1에 따라 제조한 양복 심지(1)와 비교할때 복원력이 우수하고 실크와 같이 매끄럽고 부드러운 감촉을 갖게 되는 장점을 갖는다.The garment wick (1) prepared according to the second embodiment has an advantage in that the restoring force is excellent compared to the garment wick (1) prepared according to the first embodiment and has a smooth and soft texture like silk.

Claims (3)

상기 실시예 1에 따라 공지의 모심지(2) 좌우 한쌍을 제 1도에 도시된 바와 같이 입체적으로 재단하여 모심지(2)의 상부 1개소를 벌어지게 하되 절개부(3)이면에 덧붙임천(4)의 일측에만 접착제를 발라 덧붙여 놓고, 모심지(2)의 하부 1개소는 절개부(5)를 겹쳐지게 준비한 후 1-3데니어의 내열성 폴리에스테르 단섬유 100%로 제조한 펠트(6) 전면에 접착제(7)를 도포하여 열풍건조기에서 약 50-60로 건조하고 그 펠트(6) 이면에 아크릭도트프린팅 한 한쌍의 펠트(6)를 세팅용 금형(11), (12)에 상기 펠트(6)와 모심지(2)를 중첩하여 놓고 셋팅하되 밑판 금형(11)에서는 130℃-150℃의 수증기를 뿜어주고 윗판 금형(12)에서는 160℃-190℃의 열과 6㎏/㎠의 압력으로 동시에 가열 가합하여 성형함을 특징으로 하는 양복심지.According to the first embodiment, a pair of right and left well-known cultivars 2 are cut in three dimensions as shown in FIG. 1 to open one upper portion of the chamfer 2, but are added to the back side of the incision 3. The adhesive was applied only to one side of (4), and the lower one part of the wick (2) was prepared by overlapping the incisions (5) and made of 100% of heat resistant polyester short fibers of 1-3 deniers (6 ) Apply the adhesive (7) to the front and dry it to about 50-60 in a hot air dryer, and put a pair of felt (6) on the back of the felt (6) to the mold (11), (12) for setting Set the felt (6) and the chamfer (2) superimposed and set, but the bottom plate mold (11) spouts the steam of 130 ℃ -150 ℃, in the upper plate 12 (160 ℃-190 ℃ heat and 6kg / ㎠ of The core, characterized in that the molding by heating and heating at the same time. 상기 실시예 1에 따라 제 (1)항에서와 같은 공정에 의한 양복심지(1)의 제조방법.A method of manufacturing a garment wick (1) by the same process as in (1) according to the first embodiment. 제 1항에 있어서, 양복심지(1)를 제조함에 있어서 실시예 2에 따라 1-3데니어의 내열성 폴리에스테르 단섬유 80-90%와 0.8-3데니어의 나일론 단섬유 10-20%를 혼합하여 제조한 펠트(6)로 실시예 1과 같은 공정에 따라 성형함을 특징으로 하는 양복심지.The method according to claim 1, wherein in manufacturing the garment wick 1, 80-90% of 1-3 denier heat-resistant polyester short fibers and 10-20% of 0.8-3 denier nylon short fibers are mixed according to Example 2. Clothes wick, characterized in that the molding according to the same process as in Example 1 with the felt (6).
KR1019940032790A 1994-12-05 1994-12-05 Method of manufacture for padding KR0123397B1 (en)

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