JPWO2013111441A1 - Transparent gel cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

Disclosed is a gel cosmetic that is excellent in safety, moisturizing effect, and feeling of use, and has transparency that is stable over time. The transparent gel cosmetic of the present invention is a gel cosmetic obtained by mixing an aqueous phase (A) and an oil phase (B), wherein the aqueous phase (A) and the oil phase (B) are the following components, respectively. And the difference in refractive index between the water phase (A) and the oil phase (B) at 20 ° C. is within 0.05. Components contained in water phase (A): polyglycerin fatty acid ester, polyhydric alcohol, and components contained in water oil phase (B): oil having a refractive index of 1.30 to 1.50 at 20 ° C.

Description

  The present invention relates to a transparent gel cosmetic, and more particularly to a transparent gel cosmetic useful as a skin care cosmetic such as a moisturizing gel and a hand gel, and a hair care cosmetic such as a gel conditioner.

  Most skin lotions and gel cosmetics that contain moisturizers used to moisturize hair and skin have a transparent appearance, and that appearance is preferred by many consumers. Yes. These lotions and gel cosmetics are required to further enhance their moisturizing effect.

  When an oil agent is blended in cosmetics, a moisturizing effect corresponding to the blending amount is obtained, but the cosmetics are likely to become cloudy, and it is very difficult to blend a large amount of oil agents while maintaining transparency and safety. For example, when using a polyoxyethylene-based surfactant as an emulsifier, the polyoxyethylene-based surfactant has insufficient emulsifying power with respect to polar oils, so in order to maintain transparency over a long period of time, Only a small amount of oil could be blended and a sufficient moisturizing effect could not be obtained. In addition, the types of oils that can be blended are considerably limited. And in order to emulsify the quantity of oil with which sufficient moisturizing effect is obtained, since addition of a large amount of surfactant is needed, there was a concern about increase in skin irritation.

  Patent Document 1 describes an emulsified cosmetic with a transparent or translucent appearance, obtained by using a silicone-based surfactant as an emulsifier and using silicone oil as an oil agent. However, in this case, the viscosity of the silicone oil is limited to 10 cSt or less, and the amount that can be blended (40 wt% or less) is insufficient to obtain a sufficient moisturizing effect.

  For this reason, when emphasizing the appearance, it cannot be satisfied in terms of safety or moisturizing effect and feeling of use, and when emphasizing the safety or moisturizing effect and feeling of use, it is possible to realize a transparent appearance. could not. That is, the present condition is that the gel cosmetics which have all safety | security, a transparent external appearance, the outstanding moisturizing effect, and a usability | use_condition are not found.

JP-A-10-120524

  Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a gel cosmetic that is excellent in safety, moisturizing effect, and feeling of use, and has transparency that is stable over time.

  As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventor is particularly limited if the specific polyglycerin fatty acid ester is excellent in safety and used as a gelling agent, as long as it is an oil generally used in cosmetics. It can be blended without being mixed, can be stably gelled even if a large amount of the above oil is blended, and further, blended with a polyhydric alcohol, and selected and used an oil having a specific refractive index The present inventors have found that a gel-like cosmetic material having excellent transparency can be formed. The present invention has been completed based on these findings.

That is, the present invention is a gel cosmetic obtained by mixing an aqueous phase (A) and an oil phase (B), wherein the aqueous phase (A) and the oil phase (B) each contain the following components, Provided is a transparent gel cosmetic which has a difference in refractive index within ± 0.05 between an aqueous phase (A) and an oil phase (B) at ° C.
Components contained in the aqueous phase (A): the following formula (1)
RC (= O) O- (C 3 H 6 O 2) n-H (1)
(In the formula, R represents an aliphatic hydrocarbon group having 11 to 17 carbon atoms. N represents the degree of polymerization of glycerin and is an integer of 10 or more.)
A polyglycerin fatty acid ester containing a polyglycerin monofatty acid ester represented by the formula (1) and having an HLB of 10.0 or more and a monoesterification rate of 30% or more; a polyhydric alcohol; and a component contained in the oil phase (B): Oil having a refractive index of 1.30 to 1.50 at 20 ° C.

  The transparent gel cosmetic preferably contains 5 to 25% by weight of the aqueous phase (A) and 75 to 95% by weight of the oil phase (B).

  Since the transparent gel cosmetic of the present invention has the above-described configuration, it is excellent in safety and can contain a large amount of an oil agent while maintaining a transparent appearance, and has an aesthetic appearance, an excellent moisturizing effect and a feeling of use. Therefore, it can be used widely and safely in skin care cosmetics such as moisturizing gels and hand gels, and hair care cosmetics such as gel conditioners.

  The transparent gel cosmetic of the present invention is a gel cosmetic obtained by mixing an aqueous phase (A) and an oil phase (B), wherein the aqueous phase (A) and the oil phase (B) are the following components, respectively. It is characterized by including.

  In the gel cosmetic of the present invention, the difference in refractive index between the water phase (A) and the oil phase (B) at 20 ° C. is within ± 0.05, preferably within ± 0.04, particularly preferably. Within ± 0.01. Since the difference in refractive index between the water phase (A) and the oil phase (B) at 20 ° C. is within the above range, the gel cosmetic of the present invention exhibits a transparent appearance and has an aesthetic appearance. On the other hand, when the difference in refractive index between the water phase (A) and the oil phase (B) at 20 ° C. is out of the above range, the gel cosmetic becomes cloudy and the aesthetics are impaired.

[Aqueous phase (A)]
The aqueous phase (A) includes at least the following formula (1)
RC (= O) O- (C 3 H 6 O 2) n-H (1)
(In the formula, R represents an aliphatic hydrocarbon group having 11 to 17 carbon atoms. N represents the degree of polymerization of glycerin and is an integer of 10 or more.)
A polyglycerin monofatty acid ester represented by the formula: HLB of 10.0 or more and a monoesterification rate of 30% or more; polyhydric alcohol; and water.

  The proportion of the aqueous phase (A) in the gel cosmetic (100% by weight) of the present invention is, for example, about 5.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably 7.0 to 20.0% by weight, particularly preferably. Is 8.0 to 15.0 wt%, most preferably 10.0 to 15.0 wt%. When the proportion of the aqueous phase (A) in the gel cosmetic is less than the above range, the gel stability of the gel cosmetic obtained is lowered, and it is easy to separate due to temperature change, and it is difficult to maintain the gel state. It may become. On the other hand, when the proportion of the aqueous phase (A) in the gel cosmetic exceeds the above range, the moisturizing effect and the feeling of use tend to decrease.

(Polyglycerin fatty acid ester)
The polyglycerol fatty acid ester of the present invention contains at least a polyglycerol mono fatty acid ester represented by the following formula (1). In the formula, R represents an aliphatic hydrocarbon group having 11 to 17 carbon atoms. n represents the degree of polymerization of glycerin and is an integer of 10 or more.
RC (= O) O- (C 3 H 6 O 2) n-H (1)

C ₃ H ₆ O ₂ in parentheses in the formula (1) has both structures represented by the following formulas (2) and (3).
—CH ₂ —CHOH—CH ₂ O— (2)
—CH (CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ O— (3)

R represents an aliphatic hydrocarbon group having 11 to 17 carbon atoms. For example, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl (lauryl), n-tridecyl, n-tetradecyl (myristyl), n-pentadecyl, n-hexadecyl, n- C _11-17 linear alkyl groups such as heptadecyl; n- undecenyl, n- dodecenyl, n- tridecenyl, n- tetradecenyl, n- pentadecenyl, n- hexadecenyl, C _11-17 straight chain such as n- heptadecenyl Isoundecyl, s-undecyl, t-undecyl, isododecyl, s-dodecyl, t-dodecyl, isotridecyl, s-tridecyl, t-tridecyl, isotetradecyl, s-tetradecyl, t-tetradecyl, isopentadecyl, s-pentadecyl, t-pentadecyl, isohexadecyl, s-hexadecyl , T-hexadecyl isoheptadecyl, s- heptadecyl, t-C _11-17 branched chain alkyl groups such as heptadecyl; Isoundeseniru, s- undecenyl, t-undecenyl, isododecenyl, s- dodecenyl, t-dodecenyl, Isotorideseniru, s- Tridecenyl, t-tridecenyl, isotetradecenyl, s-tetradecenyl, t-tetradecenyl, isopentadecenyl, s-pentadecenyl, t-pentadecenyl, isohexadecenyl, s-hexadecenyl, t-hexadecenyl, isohepta Examples thereof include C _11-17 branched alkenyl groups such as decenyl, s-heptadecenyl, t-heptadecenyl and the like.

  As R, among them, a linear aliphatic hydrocarbon group having 11 to 13 carbon atoms (particularly, a linear alkyl group) is excellent in gelling power and forms a gel-like cosmetic material having excellent use feeling. It is preferable in that it can be performed.

  n represents the degree of polymerization of glycerin and is an integer of 10 or more, preferably 10 to 15, and particularly preferably 10. When n is less than the above range, the gelling power tends to decrease, and it may be difficult to obtain a gel-like composition.

  That is, as the polyglycerin monofatty acid ester represented by the formula (1), R is a linear aliphatic hydrocarbon group (particularly a linear alkyl group) having 11 to 17 carbon atoms (particularly 11 to 13). And n is preferably 10 to 15 (particularly 10). These can be used alone or in admixture of two or more.

  As a method for producing the polyglycerin monofatty acid ester represented by the formula (1), for example, in the presence of an acid catalyst, the fatty acid / glycidol (molar ratio) has a specific value (for example, 1/10 to 1/1). And a method of adding glycidol at a ratio such that the ratio is about 15). According to the said method, polyglycerol mono-fatty acid ester can be manufactured with the outstanding yield.

  The polyglycerol fatty acid ester of the present invention contains at least a polyglycerol mono fatty acid ester represented by the above formula (1). The content of the polyglycerol mono fatty acid ester represented by the above formula (1) in the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is, for example, 30% or more, preferably 40% or more, particularly preferably 50% or more. The upper limit of the content of the polyglycerin monofatty acid ester represented by the above formula (1) in the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is 100% by weight. When the content of the polyglycerin monofatty acid ester represented by the above formula (1) is less than the above range, the hydrophilicity becomes too low and it is difficult to dissolve in the aqueous phase. There is a tendency to decrease.

  That is, the monoesterification rate of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester of the present invention is 30% or more, preferably 40% or more, particularly preferably 50% or more. When the monoesterification rate is below the above range, the hydrophilicity becomes too low and it is difficult to dissolve in the aqueous phase, so that the transparency of the resulting gel cosmetic tends to be lowered. The monoesterification rate can be measured using high performance liquid chromatography equipped with a reverse phase column and a UV detector.

  The polyglycerin fatty acid ester of the present invention has an HLB (Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance) of 10.0 or more, preferably 10.0 to 16.5, particularly preferably 11.0 to 16.0. Preferably it is 12.0-14.5. When the HLB of the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is below the above range, the lipophilicity becomes too high, and the transparency of the resulting gel cosmetic is lowered. HLB can be controlled by adjusting the degree of polymerization of glycerin.

  The blending amount of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester in the gel cosmetic of the present invention (100% by weight) is, for example, 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably 2 0.0 to 4.0% by weight. When the compounding quantity of polyglycerin fatty acid ester is less than the said range, the temperature stability of the gel-like cosmetics obtained and transparency will fall and there exists a tendency for the beauty | look to be impaired. On the other hand, when the blending amount of the polyglycerin fatty acid ester exceeds the above range, the feeling of use of the resulting gel-like cosmetic tends to be reduced (for example, when applied to hair or skin, the spread or familiarity becomes worse). is there.

(Polyhydric alcohol)
Examples of the polyhydric alcohol of the present invention include glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, mabit, sorbitol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and the like. These can be used alone or in admixture of two or more. In the present invention, among them, glycerin and diglycerin are preferable in terms of excellent safety and easy adjustment of the refractive index.

  The blending amount of the polyhydric alcohol in the gel cosmetic of the present invention (100% by weight) is, for example, 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, preferably 3.0 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably 5. 0 to 8.0% by weight. When the blending amount of the polyhydric alcohol is below the above range, the transparency of the gel cosmetic obtained is liable to deteriorate and the aesthetic appearance tends to be impaired. On the other hand, when the blending amount of the polyhydric alcohol exceeds the above range, the feeling of use of the obtained gel cosmetic tends to be reduced (for example, when applied to hair or skin, the spread and familiarity are deteriorated). .

(water)
As water of this invention, any of hard water and soft water may be sufficient, for example, industrial water, tap water, ion-exchange water, purified water, distilled water etc. can be used. The blending amount of water in the gel cosmetic of the present invention (100% by weight) is, for example, 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 2.0 to 8.0% by weight, particularly preferably 2.0 to 5.0% by weight. When the blending amount of water is out of the above range, the transparency of the obtained gel cosmetics tends to be lowered, and the aesthetic appearance tends to be impaired.

[Oil phase (B)]
The oil phase (B) contains oil having a refractive index of 1.30 to 1.50 at 20 ° C.

  The oil having a refractive index of 1.30 to 1.50 usually corresponds to most oils used in cosmetics. For example, hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin and squalane; esters such as octyldodecyl myristate, isononyl isononanoate and isopropyl myristate; Vegetable oils such as olive oil, jojoba oil, evening primrose oil, coconut oil; chain polysiloxanes (eg dimethylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, diphenyltrisiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane), cyclic polysiloxanes (eg hexaphenylcyclo) Silicones such as trisiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane can be used. These can be used alone or in admixture of two or more.

  When one kind of oil is used alone, it is sufficient to use one having a refractive index of 1.30 to 1.50 at 20 ° C. When two or more kinds of oils are mixed and used, the oil What is necessary is just to use it combining so that the refractive index in 20 degreeC may become 1.30-1.50 as a whole. When the oil whose refractive index at 20 ° C. is out of the above range is used, the transparency of the resulting gel cosmetic is lowered and the aesthetic appearance is impaired.

  The proportion of the oil phase (B) in the gel cosmetic (100% by weight) of the present invention is, for example, about 75.0 to 95.0% by weight, preferably 80.0 to 93.0% by weight, particularly preferably. Is 85.0 to 90.0% by weight. When the ratio of the oil phase (B) in the gel cosmetic is less than the above range, the moisturizing effect and feeling of use of the gel cosmetic obtained tend to be reduced. On the other hand, when the ratio of the oil phase (B) in the gel cosmetic exceeds the above range, the gel stability of the gel cosmetic obtained is lowered, and it is easy to separate due to temperature change, and the gel state is maintained. May be difficult.

  The transparent gel cosmetic of the present invention can be produced according to a normal method, for example, by mixing the components contained in the aqueous phase (A) and the oil phase (B). Moreover, in the transparent gel cosmetics of this invention, in addition to the component contained in the said water phase (A) and oil phase (B), it mix | blends with normal cosmetics in the range which does not impair the effect of this invention. Ingredients [for example, natural moisturizing agents (for example, trimethylglycine, urea, sodium hyaluronate, etc.), sugar alcohol, various vitamins, amino acids, herbal medicines, anti-inflammatory agents, cell activators, pigments, preservatives, fragrances, etc.] are appropriately blended. be able to.

  The gel cosmetic obtained by the above method has a transparent appearance. Moreover, it is excellent in a moisturizing effect and a feeling of use. Specifically, the skin surface has good elongation and is easy to become familiar with. Therefore, after use, no stickiness or shine occurs, and a moist feel can be imparted to the skin surface. In addition, skin irritation is extremely low and safety is excellent. Therefore, the transparent gel cosmetic of the present invention is useful as a skin care cosmetic such as a moisturizing gel and a hand gel, and a hair care cosmetic such as a gel conditioner.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example demonstrates this invention more concretely, this invention is not limited by these Examples.

Examples 1-8, Comparative Examples 1-5
Each component was blended in the proportions (unit: parts by weight) shown in the following table to prepare a gel cosmetic, and the appearance, feeling of use and stability over time were evaluated by the following evaluation methods.

(1) Appearance evaluation The appearance of the gel cosmetics prepared in Examples and Comparative Examples was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
<Evaluation criteria>
◎: Presents good transparency ○: Presents transparency △: Slightly turbid ×: Presents white turbidity

(2) Evaluation of feeling of use 20 healthy female panelists were allowed to use the gel cosmetics prepared in the examples and comparative examples on their hair and face, in which case “goodness of spread”, “ease of familiarity” and “afterfeel” Each item of “(No stickiness or lack of shine)” was scored with a maximum score of 100, and the average score was evaluated according to the following criteria.
<Evaluation criteria>
◎: 75 points or more ○: 50 points or more to less than 75 points △: 25 points or more to less than 50 points ×: less than 25 points

(3) Evaluation of stability over time The gel cosmetics prepared in Examples and Comparative Examples were left in a thermostatic bath at 0 ° C. or 50 ° C. for 1 month. Thereafter, the presence or absence of a state change was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria.
<Evaluation criteria>
○: No change in state (maintains transparency)
×: There is a state change such as cloudiness or separation.

  The transparent gel cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in safety, can contain a large amount of oil while maintaining a transparent appearance, and has both aesthetic appearance, excellent moisturizing effect and feeling of use. Therefore, it can be used widely and safely in skin care cosmetics such as moisturizing gels and hand gels, and hair care cosmetics such as gel conditioners.

Claims (2)

A gel cosmetic obtained by mixing an aqueous phase (A) and an oil phase (B), wherein the aqueous phase (A) and the oil phase (B) each contain the following components, and the aqueous phase (A ) And the oil phase (B) have a refractive index difference within ± 0.05.
Components contained in the aqueous phase (A): the following formula (1)
RC (= O) O- (C 3 H 6 O 2) n-H (1)
(In the formula, R represents an aliphatic hydrocarbon group having 11 to 17 carbon atoms. N represents the degree of polymerization of glycerin and is an integer of 10 or more.)
A polyglycerin fatty acid ester containing a polyglycerin monofatty acid ester represented by the formula (1) and having an HLB of 10.0 or more and a monoesterification rate of 30% or more; a polyhydric alcohol; and a component contained in the oil phase (B): Oil having a refractive index of 1.30 to 1.50 at 20 ° C.   The transparent gel cosmetic according to claim 1, comprising 5 to 25% by weight of the aqueous phase (A) and 75 to 95% by weight of the oil phase (B).