JPS6323963B2 - - Google Patents
Info
- Publication number
- JPS6323963B2 JPS6323963B2 JP55029607A JP2960780A JPS6323963B2 JP S6323963 B2 JPS6323963 B2 JP S6323963B2 JP 55029607 A JP55029607 A JP 55029607A JP 2960780 A JP2960780 A JP 2960780A JP S6323963 B2 JPS6323963 B2 JP S6323963B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- glycyrrhizin
- composition
- skin
- weight
- cream
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
Links
- 229960004949 glycyrrhizic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 71
- 239000004378 Glycyrrhizin Substances 0.000 claims description 62
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 51
- LPLVUJXQOOQHMX-UHFFFAOYSA-N glycyrrhetinic acid glycoside Natural products C1CC(C2C(C3(CCC4(C)CCC(C)(CC4C3=CC2=O)C(O)=O)C)(C)CC2)(C)C2C(C)(C)C1OC1OC(C(O)=O)C(O)C(O)C1OC1OC(C(O)=O)C(O)C(O)C1O LPLVUJXQOOQHMX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 45
- LPLVUJXQOOQHMX-QWBHMCJMSA-N glycyrrhizinic acid Chemical compound O([C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O[C@@H]1O[C@@H]1C([C@H]2[C@]([C@@H]3[C@@]([C@@]4(CC[C@@]5(C)CC[C@@](C)(C[C@H]5C4=CC3=O)C(O)=O)C)(C)CC2)(C)CC1)(C)C)C(O)=O)[C@@H]1O[C@H](C(O)=O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O LPLVUJXQOOQHMX-QWBHMCJMSA-N 0.000 claims description 45
- 235000019410 glycyrrhizin Nutrition 0.000 claims description 42
- UYRUBYNTXSDKQT-UHFFFAOYSA-N glycyrrhizic acid Natural products CC1(C)C(CCC2(C)C1CCC3(C)C2C(=O)C=C4C5CC(C)(CCC5(C)CCC34C)C(=O)O)OC6OC(C(O)C(O)C6OC7OC(O)C(O)C(O)C7C(=O)O)C(=O)O UYRUBYNTXSDKQT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 41
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims description 32
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 claims description 27
- LPLVUJXQOOQHMX-IOHDZAKGSA-N (2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4s,5s,6s)-2-[[(3s,4ar,6ar,6bs,8as,11s,12as,14ar,14bs)-11-carboxy-4,4,6a,6b,8a,11,14b-heptamethyl-14-oxo-2,3,4a,5,6,7,8,9,10,12,12a,14a-dodecahydro-1h-picen-3-yl]oxy]-6-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2-c Chemical compound O([C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O[C@@H]1O[C@@H]1C([C@H]2[C@]([C@@H]3[C@@]([C@@]4(CC[C@@]5(C)CC[C@@](C)(C[C@@H]5C4=CC3=O)C(O)=O)C)(C)CC2)(C)CC1)(C)C)C(O)=O)[C@@H]1O[C@H](C(O)=O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O LPLVUJXQOOQHMX-IOHDZAKGSA-N 0.000 claims description 17
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- 229940074774 glycyrrhizinate Drugs 0.000 claims description 14
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 14
- ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Potassium Chemical compound [K] ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- KEAYESYHFKHZAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sodium Chemical compound [Na] KEAYESYHFKHZAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 17
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 16
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- LXCFILQKKLGQFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N methylparaben Chemical compound COC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 LXCFILQKKLGQFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 11
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 10
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 9
- 235000013336 milk Nutrition 0.000 description 9
- 239000008267 milk Substances 0.000 description 9
- 210000004080 milk Anatomy 0.000 description 9
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 8
- 229940057995 liquid paraffin Drugs 0.000 description 8
- ILRKKHJEINIICQ-OOFFSTKBSA-N Monoammonium glycyrrhizinate Chemical compound N.O([C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O[C@@H]1O[C@H]1CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]3C(=O)C=C4[C@@H]5C[C@](C)(CC[C@@]5(CC[C@@]4(C)[C@]3(C)CC[C@H]2C1(C)C)C)C(O)=O)C(O)=O)[C@@H]1O[C@H](C(O)=O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O ILRKKHJEINIICQ-OOFFSTKBSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 238000001879 gelation Methods 0.000 description 7
- 239000002884 skin cream Substances 0.000 description 7
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 7
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 235000008331 Pinus X rigitaeda Nutrition 0.000 description 6
- 235000011613 Pinus brutia Nutrition 0.000 description 6
- 241000018646 Pinus brutia Species 0.000 description 6
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 6
- 229960000541 cetyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 6
- 235000010270 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate Nutrition 0.000 description 6
- 239000004292 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate Substances 0.000 description 6
- 229960002216 methylparaben Drugs 0.000 description 6
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 6
- -1 18β-glycyrrhizic acid monopotassium salt Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 206010040880 Skin irritation Diseases 0.000 description 5
- 230000002378 acidificating effect Effects 0.000 description 5
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 5
- 235000010987 pectin Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 239000001814 pectin Substances 0.000 description 5
- 229920001277 pectin Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 5
- 230000036556 skin irritation Effects 0.000 description 5
- 231100000475 skin irritation Toxicity 0.000 description 5
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 description 4
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 description 4
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 238000004945 emulsification Methods 0.000 description 4
- 230000001804 emulsifying effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 4
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 4
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 description 4
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 4
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 4
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron oxide Chemical compound [Fe]=O UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M Potassium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[K+] KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 231100000344 non-irritating Toxicity 0.000 description 3
- 238000003860 storage Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 3
- IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 1-palmitoyl-2-arachidonoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 0.000 description 2
- YICVJSOYNBZJAK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 14-methylpentadecyl tetradecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C YICVJSOYNBZJAK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- BGRXBNZMPMGLQI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-octyldodecyl tetradecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(CCCCCCCC)CCCCCCCCCC BGRXBNZMPMGLQI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 240000004670 Glycyrrhiza echinata Species 0.000 description 2
- 235000001453 Glycyrrhiza echinata Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 235000006200 Glycyrrhiza glabra Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 235000017382 Glycyrrhiza lepidota Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 2
- VTAJIXDZFCRWBR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Licoricesaponin B2 Natural products C1C(C2C(C3(CCC4(C)CCC(C)(CC4C3=CC2)C(O)=O)C)(C)CC2)(C)C2C(C)(C)CC1OC1OC(C(O)=O)C(O)C(O)C1OC1OC(C(O)=O)C(O)C(O)C1O VTAJIXDZFCRWBR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 241001465754 Metazoa Species 0.000 description 2
- LRHPLDYGYMQRHN-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-Butanol Chemical compound CCCCO LRHPLDYGYMQRHN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfuric acid Chemical compound OS(O)(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000010775 animal oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002585 base Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000014121 butter Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 238000000354 decomposition reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000007872 degassing Methods 0.000 description 2
- UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N docosanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O UKMSUNONTOPOIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O POULHZVOKOAJMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000010696 ester oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000011049 filling Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000004676 glycans Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000001685 glycyrrhizic acid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 2
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ZSIAUFGUXNUGDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCO ZSIAUFGUXNUGDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000005556 hormone Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229940088597 hormone Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 229940078568 isocetyl myristate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 238000006317 isomerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000787 lecithin Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000010445 lecithin Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229940067606 lecithin Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 229940010454 licorice Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 description 2
- JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Triacontane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 description 2
- YLSUMFQEBHBMQB-OOFFSTKBSA-M potassium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6s)-6-[[(3s,4ar,6ar,6bs,8as,11s,12ar,14ar,14bs)-11-carboxy-4,4,6a,6b,8a,11,14b-heptamethyl-14-oxo-2,3,4a,5,6,7,8,9,10,12,12a,14a-dodecahydro-1h-picen-3-yl]oxy]-5-[(2r,3r,4s,5s,6s)-6-carboxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxan-2-yl]oxy-3,4-dihydrox Chemical compound [K+].O([C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O[C@@H]1O[C@H]1CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]3C(=O)C=C4[C@@H]5C[C@](C)(CC[C@@]5(CC[C@@]4(C)[C@]3(C)CC[C@H]2C1(C)C)C)C(O)=O)C([O-])=O)[C@@H]1O[C@H](C(O)=O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O YLSUMFQEBHBMQB-OOFFSTKBSA-M 0.000 description 2
- 239000002244 precipitate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 description 2
- DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N (2r,4r,4as,6as,6as,6br,8ar,12ar,14as,14bs)-2-hydroxy-4,4a,6a,6b,8a,11,11,14a-octamethyl-2,4,5,6,6a,7,8,9,10,12,12a,13,14,14b-tetradecahydro-1h-picen-3-one Chemical compound C([C@H]1[C@]2(C)CC[C@@]34C)C(C)(C)CC[C@]1(C)CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]4CC[C@@]1(C)[C@H]3C[C@@H](O)C(=O)[C@@H]1C DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N (9Z)-octadecen-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCO ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N (E)-8-Octadecenoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCC(O)=O WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QMMJWQMCMRUYTG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,2,4,5-tetrachloro-3-(trifluoromethyl)benzene Chemical compound FC(F)(F)C1=C(Cl)C(Cl)=CC(Cl)=C1Cl QMMJWQMCMRUYTG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 20:1omega9c fatty acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- HBTAOSGHCXUEKI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-chloro-n,n-dimethyl-3-nitrobenzenesulfonamide Chemical compound CN(C)S(=O)(=O)C1=CC=C(Cl)C([N+]([O-])=O)=C1 HBTAOSGHCXUEKI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 9-Heptadecensaeure Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019489 Almond oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 235000021357 Behenic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920000569 Gum karaya Polymers 0.000 description 1
- CMBYOWLFQAFZCP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hexyl dodecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCCCCC CMBYOWLFQAFZCP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004166 Lanolin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000005639 Lauric acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000161 Locust bean gum Polymers 0.000 description 1
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- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Oleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019482 Palm oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 239000004264 Petrolatum Substances 0.000 description 1
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 235000021355 Stearic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 241000934878 Sterculia Species 0.000 description 1
- CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N Sucrose Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@]1(CO)O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O ammonium group Chemical group [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 1
- 150000003863 ammonium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000003254 anti-foaming effect Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 239000005018 casein Substances 0.000 description 1
- BECPQYXYKAMYBN-UHFFFAOYSA-N casein, tech. Chemical compound NCCCCC(C(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(CC(C)C)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(C(C)O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=O)N=C(O)C(COP(O)(O)=O)N=C(O)C(CCC(O)=N)N=C(O)C(N)CC1=CC=CC=C1 BECPQYXYKAMYBN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000021240 caseins Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003518 caustics Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007795 chemical reaction product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000015271 coagulation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005345 coagulation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003026 cod liver oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012716 cod liver oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000013329 compounding Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002425 crystallisation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008025 crystallization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003247 decreasing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000013530 defoamer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940031578 diisopropyl adipate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940031569 diisopropyl sebacate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XFKBBSZEQRFVSL-UHFFFAOYSA-N dipropan-2-yl decanedioate Chemical compound CC(C)OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C XFKBBSZEQRFVSL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LQZZUXJYWNFBMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCO LQZZUXJYWNFBMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethylene glycol Natural products OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019197 fats Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000005187 foaming Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229930195712 glutamate Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 229940049906 glutamate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000007542 hardness measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940100463 hexyl laurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000001023 inorganic pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N isooleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000231 karaya gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010494 karaya gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940039371 karaya gum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019388 lanolin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940039717 lanolin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000711 locust bean gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010420 locust bean gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000007774 longterm Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000000691 measurement method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002739 metals Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000011707 mineral Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010755 mineral Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Pentadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O WQEPLUUGTLDZJY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940073665 octyldodecyl myristate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000021313 oleic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940055577 oleyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N oleyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCCCO XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004006 olive oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000008390 olive oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- NDLPOXTZKUMGOV-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxo(oxoferriooxy)iron hydrate Chemical compound O.O=[Fe]O[Fe]=O NDLPOXTZKUMGOV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002540 palm oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960000292 pectin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940066842 petrolatum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019271 petrolatum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910052700 potassium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011591 potassium Substances 0.000 description 1
- XAEFZNCEHLXOMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M potassium benzoate Chemical compound [K+].[O-]C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 XAEFZNCEHLXOMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
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- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 159000000000 sodium salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- WRZYGPIFICWRCG-OOFFSTKBSA-M sodium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4s,5s,6s)-2-[[(3s,4ar,6ar,6bs,8as,11s,12ar,14ar,14bs)-11-carboxylato-4,4,6a,6b,8a,11,14b-heptamethyl-14-oxo-2,3,4a,5,6,7,8,9,10,12,12a,14a-dodecahydro-1h-picen-3-yl]oxy]-6-carboxylato-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trih Chemical compound [Na+].O([C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O[C@@H]1O[C@H]1CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]3C(=O)C=C4[C@@H]5C[C@](C)(CC[C@@]5(CC[C@@]4(C)[C@]3(C)CC[C@H]2C1(C)C)C)C(O)=O)C([O-])=O)[C@@H]1O[C@H](C(O)=O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O WRZYGPIFICWRCG-OOFFSTKBSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940012831 stearyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 239000003760 tallow Substances 0.000 description 1
- TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N tetradecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCC[14C](O)=O TUNFSRHWOTWDNC-HKGQFRNVSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 229920003169 water-soluble polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
本発明は、通常のグリチルリチン(甘草からの
抽出成分である、後記18β―グリチルリチン)の
異性化によつて得られる新規化合物の18α―グリ
チルリチン(後記)(特開昭56−115797号公報)
と、従来の18β―グリチルリチンとからなる特定
の組成物を、乳化剤として使用して、油性物質を
乳化してなる、乳濁状(クリーム状または乳液
状)の化粧料に関するものである。
従来のグリチルリチン(「化粧品原料基準」や
特公昭45−21397号公報、特開昭54−92633号公報
に記載のグリチルリチン酸またはそのナトリウム
塩、カリウム塩、アンモニウム塩)は、後記の式
(2)の構造を有しており、その水溶液はPH2.5〜5.8
の範囲内ではゲル化(凝固)を生起するという特
異性を示す。
このゲル化現象を応用したゲル状(固型)皮膚
化粧料(特公昭45−21397号公報)は、よく知ら
れている。
しかしながら、(1)そのゲルは、流動性に乏し
く、指先には付着し難いために容器(瓶等)から
取出し難い。(2)ゲルを指先や手のひらで押圧して
も均一に破壊(液状化)し難く、滑りやすいため
に皮膚に塗着し難い。(3)ゲル(製品)を長期保存
すると、ゲル中の水が分離(遊漿)して、安定性
や外観が著しく低下する。(4)製造(配合)工程で
生成した気泡がゲル(製品)の中に残存して、消
泡し難く、製品の外観をわるくする。等の難点が
ある故にゲル状皮膚化粧料は未だ製品化(実用
化)されていない。
更に、例えば特開昭54−92633号公報に記載の
従来のグリチルリチン(18β―グリチルリチン)
は、PH5.5以下の酸性水系においてゲル化を起こ
す欠点の他に、その水溶液は起泡すると長時間消
泡し難い欠点をも併有している。特に油性物質を
多量使用する乳化化粧料に、乳化力の比較的弱い
18β―グリチルリチンを使用しても乳化安定性の
高い化粧料を得るには困難である。このような欠
点を改良するためにペクチン等の水溶性多糖類を
併用する方法が知られているが、ペクチン等の水
溶性高分子の共存下では、却つて起泡し易すく、
かつ系全体の著しい構造粘性を示す為に、注意深
く減圧脱泡を行ないながら製造しなければならな
い。特にこのような減圧脱泡下での製造には、精
密な減圧制御装置と熟練した操作技術を必要と
し、しかも大量生産は可成り困難であつた。
一方合成可溶化剤(合成界面活性剤)では、皮
膚刺激性を有するものが多いために皮膚化粧料に
使用し難く、かつ処方設計も難かしい欠点があ
る。
本発明者等は、前記従来技術の難点を改良する
ために、鋭意研究した結果、後記特定の18α―グ
リチルリチンと、18β―グリチルリチンとからな
るグリチルリチン組成物(本発明者が開発した新
規組成物:特開昭56−113793号公報に記載)を、
油性物質の乳化剤として適用すると、如何なるPH
條件下でもゲル化や乳化力の低下を起すことな
く、また、製造時に減圧脱泡を行なうことなく、
工業的容易かつ有利に、後述の如き高品質の乳化
化粧料を製造し得ることを見い出し本発明を完成
した。
本発明の目的は、皮膚に対して刺激を与えるこ
となく、マイルドに作用すると共に、フイーリン
グの良い感触を与え、かつ流動性、使用性、消泡
性、保存安定性に優れ、更に外観の良好(肌目、
光沢性)の良好なクリーム状または乳液状の化粧
料を提供することにある。また本発明の他の目的
は、新規な乳化剤の組成を提供することにある。
更に他の目的は、合成界面活性剤を使用するこ
となく、乳化化粧料の組成設計(処方設計)が容
易であり、しかも工業的容易かつ有利に製造し得
る、酸性乳化化粧料を提供することにある。
上記の目的は、乳化剤として下記のグリチルリ
チン組成物を0.01〜20.0重量%(重量%は、当該
化粧料の重量基準、以下同じ)、油性物質を15%
〜80重量%、及び水を配合してなる、クリーム状
または乳液状の化粧料によつて達成される。
Γ グリチルリチン組成物:
18α―グリチルリチン酸、18α―グリチルリ
チン酸モノナトリウム、18α―グリチルリチン
酸モノカリウム、18α―グリチルリチン酸モノ
アンモニウムからなる群より選択された18α―
グリチルリチンの少なくとも一つが30〜98モル
%と、
18β―グリチルリチン酸、18β―グリチルリ
チン酸モノナトリウム、18β―グリチルリチン
酸モノカリウム、18β―グリチルリチン酸モノ
アンモニウムからなる群より選択された18β―
グリチルリチンの少なくとも一つが2〜70モル
%とからなる組成物。
18α―グリチルリチンが30モル%よりも少なく
なると、異状増粘やゲル化を起し易く、また、
18α―グリチルリチンが98モル%よりも多くなる
と経済的に好ましくない。
前記のグリチルリチン組成物を構成している
18α―グリチルリチンと18β―グリチルリチンと
の組合せは、例えば、18α―グリチルリチン酸に
対しては18β―グリチルリチン酸、18α―グリチ
ルリチン酸モノカリウム塩に対しては、18β―グ
リチルリチン酸モノカリウム塩と言うように、相
互に異性体関係にある同一化合物であることが望
ましい。
前記特定の18α―グリチルリチン並びにグリチ
ルリチン組成物は、本発明者(宮下晶、岡田憲
三、倉本隆志)によつて創製されたもので、前者
は新規化合物(特開昭56−115797号公報)であ
り、後者は、新規組成物(特開昭56−113793号公
報)である。
前記の18α―グリチルリチンは、後記の式(2)の
ように、18位の水素原子の立体配置がα配置であ
る点だけが通常のグリチルリチン(後記の式(1)で
示される、18β―グリチルリチン)と異なるもの
である。尚、本発明においては、この異性体
(18α―グリチルリチン)と通常のグリチルリチ
ン(18β―グリチルリチン)とを区別するため、
前者に18αを付けて18α―グリチルリチンと呼称
し、後者に18βを付けて18β―グリチルリチンと
呼称することにした。
下記式(1)……18β―グリチルリチン
下記式(2)……18α―グリチルリチン
〔前記の式(1)ならびに式(2)において、A1およ
びA2は水素原子、またはナトリウム、カリウム、
アンモニウム基である。但しA1とA2のうち、何
れか一方、または両方は水素原子である。〕
18α―グリチルリチンは、18β―グリチルリチ
ンと共通の特性を持つ反面、水素原子1個の立体
配置が異なるだけと僅かな差異から予想できない
特異な性質を示す。
以下、18α―グリチルリチンの特性の主なもの
を18β―グリチルリチンのそれと比較しながら説
明する。
(a) 融 点 (分解点)
融点を示さない。分解点は次のとおり。
試 料 18α―体 18β―体
遊離酸 206℃ 210℃
モノアンモニウム塩 212〜213℃ 216℃
モノカリウム塩 248℃ 246℃
(b) 旋光度〔α〕20 D(50v/v%エタノール中、
lw/v%溶液についての測定値)
試 料 18α―体 18β―体
遊離酸 +26.1゜ +60.4゜
モノアンモニウム塩 +23.2゜ +57.1゜
モノカリウム塩 +23.0゜ +56.0゜
(c) 紫外線吸収スペクトル
50v/v%エタノールを溶媒として、モノアン
モニウム塩につき測定した結果は下記の通り。
18α―体 18β―体
λnax 246 nm 251 nm
E1%
1cm 128.7 136.0
ε 10810 11420
本発明に配合使用し得る前記のグリチルリチン
組成物は次のようにして製造される。
18β―グリチルリチン(遊離酸及び任意の塩)
を原料として、これを、水又は低級アルコール、
アルキレングリコール等を溶媒として、70〜200
℃に常圧又は加圧下に加熱して、苛性ソーダ、苛
性カリ等の苛性アルカリ処理により、異性化反応
を行なう。処理を終わつた後、鉱酸を加え酸析す
る沈澱物を取するか、ヘキサノールあるいはブ
タノール等で抽出することにより、グリチルリチ
ン組成物を得る。グリチルリチン組成物中の18α
―グリチルリチンと18β―グリチルリチンとの比
率(異性体比率)は、アルカリ処理時間の調整に
より適宜得られる。また上記の18α―異性化反応
物に、18β―グリチルリチンの所望必要量を混合
することによつても調整することができる。
通常のグリチルリチン(18β―グリチルリチ
ン)は皮膚に対して無刺激性であるが、前記特定
のグリチルリチン組成物も、皮膚刺激性がなく安
全である。
すなわち、後記の各実施例に記載の各グリチル
リチン組成物の1%水溶液を被検試料として、
Draizeの方法に準じて動物皮膚刺激試験、人体
皮膚刺激試験を行なつた結果、動物皮膚刺激スコ
アー、人体皮膚刺激スコアーは何れも0であつ
て、無刺激性であることが確認された。
本発明に使用する前記特定のグリチルリチン組
成物は多くの点で通常の18β―グリチルリチンと
は異なる性質を持つている。
(イ) 水に対する溶解性が良く、前記グリチルリチ
ンは18β―グリチルリチンの場合の1/10以下の
短時間で溶解するので、当該化粧料の製造所要
時間を短縮し得る。
(ロ) 水溶液の透明性が良い。PH約4.2の酸性のモ
ノ塩では、18β―グリチルリチンの場合、一応
溶解してもゲル状で不透明であるのに対して、
前記のグリチルリチン組成物では透明に溶解
し、しかもゲル化しない。それ故、透明性の良
い液状の当該化粧料を生成しやすい。
(ハ) 水溶液の泡が消えやすい。18β―グリチルリ
チンは、安定な泡を形成するので消泡速度が遅
い。これに対して前記グリチルリチン組成物の
泡は静置状態でも消泡しやすく、消泡速度が早
いので、当該化粧料製造時の消泡所要時間を短
縮できる。
(ニ) 水溶液粘度は低く、かつ酸性域でも安定して
いるので、当該化粧料を長期保存しても粘度変
化が殆んどなく、液状を保持し得る。
(ホ) 前記のグリチルリチン組成物は、如何なるPH
領域でもゲル化することなく、かつ香料、ホル
モン等の油性物質を水性の系中に安定に可溶化
し得る。それ故、従来のグリチルリチン(特開
昭52−151736号公報のホルモン配合ローシヨ
ン)のようにアルコール等の可溶化助剤を使用
しなくてよいし、またそのPHを6.1以上に調整
する必要もない。従つて、本発明の化粧料の製
造に際しては、処方設計が極めて容易である。
(ヘ) 前記のグリチルリチン組成物は、適度の粘度
とPHと良好な流動性と良好な皮膚親和性を当該
化粧料に付与し得る。それ故当該化粧料を使用
するに際しては、容器からの取り出しが容易
で、皮膚に均一に塗着して、マイルドに作用す
ると共に、その消炎効果と相俟つて、さつぱり
とした、かつ滑らかな(つるつるした)、フイ
ーリングの良い感触を与えることができる。前
記のグリチルリチン組成物の配合量は、当該化
粧料の組成(処方)における総重量を基準とし
て、0.01〜20重量%、好ましくは0.1〜5重量
%である。0.01重量%よりも少なくなくなる
と、乳化力が低下し、また20重量%よりも多く
なると、水系中における溶解性が低下し、又経
済的にも好ましくない。
本発明に使用する油性物質としては、公知の皮
膚化粧料用油性物質であつて、高級脂肪族炭化水
素類、動物油脂類、植物油脂類、ロウ類、高級ア
ルコール類、高級脂肪酸、エステル油、シリコン
油等である。
炭化水素類としては、例えば流動パラフイン、
スクワラン、ワセリン、セレシン、固型植物油脂
としては、例えばオリーブ油、アーモンド油、ア
ボカド油、ヒマシ油、カカオ脂、パーム油等、動
物油脂としては、タラ肝油、牛脂、バター脂等、
蝋類としては、例えば密蝋、カルナウバ蝋等、高
級脂肪酸としては、例えばラウリン酸、ミリスチ
ン酸、パルミチン酸、ステアリン酸、オレイン
酸、ベヘニン酸、ラノリン脂肪酸等、高級アルコ
ールとしては、例えばラウリルアルコール、ステ
アリルアルコール、セチルアルコール、オレイル
アルコール等、エステル油としては、例えばブチ
ルステアレート、ヘキシルラウレート、オクチル
ドデシルミリステート、ジイソプロピルアジペー
ト、ジイソプロピルセバケート等の直鎖エステ
ル、分岐鎖エステル等を挙げることができる。
これらの油性物質は、単独又は2種以上組合せ
て使用される。その使用量(含有量)は15〜80重
量%、好ましくは20〜70重量%である。15重量%
より少ないと乳化安定性が悪くなり、80重量%よ
り多くなると油のベタツキが著しくなり好ましく
ない。
次に、水の使用量(含有量)は10〜90重量%、
好ましくは20〜80重量%である。
本発明に使用し得るグリチルリチン組成物は、
PHの条件等に関係なく良好な界面活性能(界面張
力の低下能)を発揮し、前記油性物質を可成り安
定に乳化し得るが、油性物質の配合量の多い場合
には、更にレシチン、シユガーエステル(シヨ糖
の高級脂肪酸エステル)、カゼインソーダ、N―
(高級)アシルグルタミン酸塩、ペクチン、キサ
ンタンガム、カラヤガム、ローカストビーンガム
からなる群から選択された天然系の界面活性物質
の少なくとも一つを配合する場合は、油性物質を
極めて安定に乳化することができる。また、この
ようにグリチルリチン組成物の少なくとも一つ
と、または、これと前記天然系の界面活性物質の
少なくとも一つを乳化剤として併用する場合は、
製造時(乳化時)に生成する気泡も、容易かつ短
時間に自然消泡し、ペクチン等の水溶性多糖類と
18β―グリチルリチンを併用する場合のような製
造中の減圧脱泡を行なう必要がなく、更に18β―
グリチルリチン単独を乳化剤とする場合のような
弱酸性下でのゲル化や、更に極度の構造粘性を発
現しないのも本発明の一つの特徴である。また最
近好ましく繁用されている、皮膚にマイルドなPH
5前後の酸性化粧料をゲル化することなく良好な
流動性、塗布性感触を発現し得る。
前記、天然系の界面活性物質は一つ又は二つ以
上組合せて使用することができ、その配合量は当
該化粧料の組成における総重量を基準として0.1
〜10.0重量%、好ましくは0.5〜5重量%である。
本発明の化粧料において、マツサージクリー
ム、クレンジングクリーム、スキンクリーム、ス
キンミルク、ヘアークリーム等では顔料を添加配
合する必要はないが、フアンデーシヨンクリーム
や液体メイクアツプベースでは、前記成分の他に
更に顔料を添加配合しなければならない。顔料の
使用量は、組成物重量を基準として10重量%以
下、好ましくは0.5〜7重量%である。
顔料としては、例えば酸化チタン、カオリン、
黄酸化鉄、酸化第二鉄、四三酸化鉄、タルク等の
無機顔料を挙げることができる。
更に所望に応じて少量の美容薬効成分、芳香
剤、防腐剤、着色剤、合成界面活性剤を添加する
こともできる。
本発明のクリーム状又は乳液状の化粧料は水と
前記のグリチルリチン組成物を加熱撹拌して溶解
した後、これに溶融した油性物質を撹拌下に添
加、混合して乳化する等の公知の製造方法によつ
て製造される。
本発明のクリーム状又は乳液状の化粧料として
は、例えばマツサージクリーム、クレンジングク
リーム、スキンクリーム、スキンミルク、フアン
デーシヨンクリーム、液体メイクアツプベース、
ヘヤークリームのような皮膚用や毛髪用等多くの
クリーム状又は乳液状の化粧料に適用される。
本発明のクリーム状又は乳液状の化粧料は皮膚
を刺激することなく、皮膚に対する安全性、親和
性が高く、肌目が細かく、かつ光沢性の高い良好
な外観を呈しており、しかも乳化安定性、保存安
定性が著しく優れている。
本発明で使用するグリチルリチン組成物は、皮
膚に対する安全性が高く、水系においてもPH、配
合濃度、低温度又は水溶性金属類の添加等によ
り、ゲル化せず、溶解時の消泡も容易であり、こ
れを使用した乳化化粧料は、指とれ、流動性が良
好で、塗布むらがなく、硬度、粘度、感触等の品
質安定性がすこぶる良好であり、その使用感は、
仕上りがさつぱりとし、かつ滑らかな感触があ
り、その商品価値は極めて高いものである。
かかる顕著な特性は、従来の18β―グリチルリ
チンの使用では得られず、前記のグリチルリチン
組成物の水系における特性に因るものであつて、
その事実は後述の実施例における比較結果からも
明白である。
以下実施例を挙げて本発明を説明する。
尚、実施例に示す「部」は重量部を、またα:
βとは当該の18α―グリチルリチンと当該の18β
―グリチルリチンの組成比(モル比)を意味す
る。
光沢度はJIS―Z8741−1962の光沢度測定法の
方法2に準じて測定した。
実施例1 (マツサージクリーム)
〔1〕 グリチルリチン酸モノアンモニウム組成
物の製造
甘草から作られた18β―グリチルリチンモノア
ンモニウム(純度80%)200部を4N−NaOH100
mlに溶解し、この溶液を常圧で還流下に7.5時間
加熱した。この後、反応混合物に硫酸を加えてPH
を約2とすることにより生じた沈澱をn―ヘキサ
ノール500部で抽出し、アンモニア水を加えてア
ルカリ性とし、ヘキサノールを留去し、85%メタ
ノールより再結晶して、グリチルリチン酸モノア
ンモニウム組成物(18α―体69.6モルと18β―体
30.4モルの混合物)118部を得た。
〔2〕 スキンクリームの調製
A 処方
1 セチルアルコール 17部
2 ミリスチン酸イソセチル 12
3 スクワラン 3
4 流動パラフイン 22
5 グリチルリチン酸モノアンモニウム組成物
(α:β=69.6モル:30.4モル) 5
6 メチルパラベン 0.2
7 プロピレングリコール 6
8 純 水 34.6
9 香 料 0.2
B 製造
上記成分の油性成分の1,2,3,4を80℃に
て均一に溶解する(溶液1)。上記成分の水溶性
成分5,6,7,8を80℃にて均一に溶解する
(溶液2)。次に溶液2をホモミキサーで撹拌しな
がら、溶液1を添加して乳化した後冷却する。
尚、その冷却過程の70℃で成分9を添加し、30
℃に降温後撹拌を停止した。かくして得られたス
キンクリームはO/W型のエマルジヨンで肌目、
光沢等の外観が良く、5〜45℃の恒温槽内で3ケ
月保存後も極めて安定であつた。
実施例2 (マツサージクリーム)
A 処方
1 流動パラフイン 50部
2 セチルアルコール 5
3 シユガーエステル 2
4 グリチルリチン酸モノアンモニウム組成物
(α:β=69.6モル:30.4モル) 2
5 メチルパラベン 0.2
6 純 水 33
7 香 料 0.3
B 製造 実施例1に準じて製造した。
かくして得られたマツサージクリームはO/W
型のエマルジヨンで肌目、光沢等の外観が良く、
5〜45℃の恒温槽内で6ケ月保存後も極めて安定
であつた。
実施例 3
グリチルリチン酸モノアンモニウム(α:β=
69.6モル:30.4モル)の代わりに、第1表の如く
α,β異性体比率の異なるグリチルリチン酸モノ
アンモニウムのそれぞれを使用する他は、実施例
1と同様にして、各マツサージクリームを製造
し、その経日硬度をしらべた。その結果を第1表
に示した。
その結果より、α異性体比率が30モル%より小
さいときは、β異性体単独と同様、ゲル化が起こ
り、指とれ、肌なじみが悪く実用面上不良であ
る。
The present invention is directed to a novel compound, 18α-glycyrrhizin (described later), which is obtained by isomerizing ordinary glycyrrhizin (18β-glycyrrhizin, described later, which is an extracted component from licorice) (Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 115797/1983).
The present invention relates to an emulsion-like (cream-like or milky lotion-like) cosmetic prepared by emulsifying an oily substance by using a specific composition consisting of 18β-glycyrrhizin and 18β-glycyrrhizin as an emulsifier. Conventional glycyrrhizin (glycyrrhizinic acid or its sodium salt, potassium salt, ammonium salt as described in "Cosmetic Raw Materials Standards", Japanese Patent Publication No. 45-21397, and Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 54-92633) has the following formula:
It has the structure (2), and its aqueous solution has a pH of 2.5 to 5.8.
It shows the specificity that gelation (coagulation) occurs within the range of . Gel-like (solid) skin cosmetics (Japanese Patent Publication No. 45-21397) that utilize this gelation phenomenon are well known. However, (1) the gel has poor fluidity and is difficult to adhere to fingertips, making it difficult to remove it from a container (bottle, etc.). (2) Even when the gel is pressed with fingertips or the palm of the hand, it is difficult to break down (liquefy) uniformly and is slippery, making it difficult to apply to the skin. (3) When a gel (product) is stored for a long period of time, the water in the gel separates (plasma), resulting in a significant decrease in stability and appearance. (4) Air bubbles generated during the manufacturing (blending) process remain in the gel (product) and are difficult to defoam, resulting in a poor appearance of the product. Because of these drawbacks, gel skin cosmetics have not yet been commercialized (practical). Furthermore, for example, conventional glycyrrhizin (18β-glycyrrhizin) described in JP-A No. 54-92633
In addition to the drawback of causing gelation in an acidic aqueous system with a pH of 5.5 or lower, the aqueous solution also has the drawback of being difficult to defoam for a long time once foamed. Especially for emulsified cosmetics that use large amounts of oily substances, the emulsifying power is relatively weak.
Even if 18β-glycyrrhizin is used, it is difficult to obtain cosmetics with high emulsion stability. In order to improve these drawbacks, it is known to use water-soluble polysaccharides such as pectin in combination, but in the coexistence of water-soluble polymers such as pectin, foaming tends to occur more easily.
Moreover, since the entire system exhibits remarkable structural viscosity, it must be manufactured while carefully degassing under reduced pressure. In particular, production under reduced pressure degassing requires a precise vacuum control device and skilled operating techniques, and mass production is quite difficult. On the other hand, many synthetic solubilizers (synthetic surfactants) have skin irritation properties, making them difficult to use in skin cosmetics and difficult to design formulations. In order to improve the drawbacks of the prior art, the present inventors have conducted intensive research and have developed a glycyrrhizin composition (a new composition developed by the present inventors) consisting of specific 18α-glycyrrhizin and 18β-glycyrrhizin described below: (described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 113793/1983),
When applied as an emulsifier for oily substances, any PH
Even under certain conditions, there is no gelation or reduction in emulsifying power, and there is no need to perform vacuum degassing during production.
The present invention was completed by discovering that high-quality emulsified cosmetics as described below can be produced industrially easily and advantageously. The purpose of the present invention is to act mildly without irritating the skin, provide a good feeling, and have excellent fluidity, usability, antifoaming properties, storage stability, and a good appearance. (skin eyes,
The purpose of the present invention is to provide a cream or milky lotion cosmetic with good glossiness. Another object of the present invention is to provide a novel emulsifier composition. Still another object is to provide an acidic emulsified cosmetic that can be easily and advantageously produced industrially without the use of synthetic surfactants, with easy compositional design (prescription design). It is in. For the above purpose, use the following glycyrrhizin composition as an emulsifier at 0.01 to 20.0% by weight (weight% is based on the weight of the cosmetic concerned, hereinafter the same), and use 15% oily substance as an emulsifier.
This can be achieved with a cream or milky lotion cosmetic containing ~80% by weight and water. Γ Glycyrrhizin composition: 18α- selected from the group consisting of 18α-glycyrrhizic acid, monosodium 18α-glycyrrhizinate, monopotassium 18α-glycyrrhizinate, and monoammonium 18α-glycyrrhizinate.
At least one of glycyrrhizin is 30 to 98 mol%, and 18β- selected from the group consisting of 18β-glycyrrhizic acid, monosodium 18β-glycyrrhizinate, monopotassium 18β-glycyrrhizinate, and monoammonium 18β-glycyrrhizinate.
A composition comprising 2 to 70 mol% of at least one glycyrrhizin. When 18α-glycyrrhizin is less than 30 mol%, abnormal thickening and gelation tend to occur, and
It is economically unfavorable if 18α-glycyrrhizin exceeds 98 mol%. Constituting the aforementioned glycyrrhizin composition
The combination of 18α-glycyrrhizin and 18β-glycyrrhizin is, for example, 18β-glycyrrhizic acid for 18α-glycyrrhizic acid, and 18β-glycyrrhizic acid monopotassium salt for 18α-glycyrrhizic acid monopotassium salt. , it is desirable that they are the same compounds that are in an isomer relationship with each other. The specific 18α-glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhizin composition were created by the present inventors (Akira Miyashita, Kenzo Okada, Takashi Kuramoto), and the former is a new compound (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 115797/1983). , the latter is a new composition (Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 113793/1983). The above-mentioned 18α-glycyrrhizin is different from normal glycyrrhizin (18β-glycyrrhizin, shown in formula (1) below), except that the configuration of the hydrogen atom at position 18 is α configuration, as shown in formula (2) below. ). In addition, in the present invention, in order to distinguish between this isomer (18α-glycyrrhizin) and normal glycyrrhizin (18β-glycyrrhizin),
We added 18α to the former and called it 18α-glycyrrhizin, and added 18β to the latter and called it 18β-glycyrrhizin. The following formula (1)...18β-glycyrrhizin The following formula (2)...18α-glycyrrhizin [In the above formulas (1) and (2), A 1 and A 2 are hydrogen atoms, sodium, potassium,
It is an ammonium group. However, one or both of A 1 and A 2 is a hydrogen atom. ] Although 18α-glycyrrhizin has properties in common with 18β-glycyrrhizin, it exhibits unique and unexpected properties due to the slight difference in the configuration of one hydrogen atom. The main characteristics of 18α-glycyrrhizin will be explained below while comparing them with those of 18β-glycyrrhizin. (a) Melting point (decomposition point) Does not show a melting point. The decomposition points are as follows. Sample 18α-form 18β-form Free acid 206℃ 210℃ Monoammonium salt 212-213℃ 216℃ Monopotassium salt 248℃ 246℃ (b) Optical rotation [α] 20 D (in 50v/v% ethanol,
Measured values for lw/v% solution) Sample 18α-form 18β-form free acid +26.1° +60.4° Monoammonium salt +23.2° +57.1° Monopotassium salt +23.0° +56.0° (c) Ultraviolet absorption spectrum The results of measurements of monoammonium salts using 50v/v% ethanol as a solvent are as follows. 18α-form 18β-form λ nax 246 nm 251 nm E1% 1 cm 128.7 136.0 ε 10810 11420 The above-mentioned glycyrrhizin composition that can be used in the present invention is produced as follows. 18β-Glycyrrhizin (free acid and any salt)
This is used as a raw material, water or lower alcohol,
70-200 using alkylene glycol etc. as a solvent
The isomerization reaction is carried out by heating to 0.degree. C. under normal pressure or increased pressure and treatment with a caustic alkali such as caustic soda or caustic potash. After finishing the treatment, a glycyrrhizin composition is obtained by adding a mineral acid and collecting the acid-precipitated precipitate, or by extracting with hexanol or butanol or the like. 18α in glycyrrhizin compositions
-The ratio of glycyrrhizin and 18β-glycyrrhizin (isomer ratio) can be appropriately obtained by adjusting the alkali treatment time. It can also be adjusted by mixing the desired amount of 18β-glycyrrhizin with the above 18α-isomerization reaction product. Ordinary glycyrrhizin (18β-glycyrrhizin) is non-irritating to the skin, but the specific glycyrrhizin composition is also safe and non-irritating to the skin. That is, using a 1% aqueous solution of each glycyrrhizin composition described in each example below as a test sample,
As a result of conducting an animal skin irritation test and a human skin irritation test according to the Draize method, both the animal skin irritation score and the human skin irritation score were 0, confirming that it is non-irritating. The specific glycyrrhizin composition used in the present invention has properties that differ from ordinary 18β-glycyrrhizin in many respects. (a) Since the glycyrrhizin has good solubility in water and dissolves in a time less than 1/10 that of 18β-glycyrrhizin, the time required for producing the cosmetic can be shortened. (b) The transparency of the aqueous solution is good. In the case of 18β-glycyrrhizin, which is an acidic monosalt with a pH of approximately 4.2, it is gel-like and opaque even if it is dissolved.
The glycyrrhizin composition described above dissolves transparently and does not gel. Therefore, it is easy to produce the liquid cosmetic with good transparency. (c) Bubbles in aqueous solution disappear easily. Since 18β-glycyrrhizin forms stable foam, its defoaming rate is slow. On the other hand, the foam of the glycyrrhizin composition is easily defoamed even in a stationary state, and the defoaming rate is fast, so that the time required for defoaming during the production of the cosmetic can be shortened. (iv) Since the viscosity of the aqueous solution is low and stable even in an acidic region, the cosmetic can maintain its liquid state with almost no change in viscosity even after long-term storage. (e) The glycyrrhizin composition described above can be used at any pH level.
It is possible to stably solubilize oily substances such as fragrances and hormones in an aqueous system without gelation even in the aqueous system. Therefore, unlike conventional glycyrrhizin (hormone-containing lotion disclosed in JP-A-52-151736), there is no need to use a solubilizing agent such as alcohol, and there is no need to adjust the pH to 6.1 or higher. . Therefore, when producing the cosmetic of the present invention, formulation design is extremely easy. (f) The glycyrrhizin composition described above can impart appropriate viscosity and pH, good fluidity, and good skin affinity to the cosmetic. Therefore, when using this cosmetic, it is easy to take out from the container, it applies evenly to the skin, has a mild effect, and, combined with its anti-inflammatory effect, leaves a refreshing and smooth skin. It can give a nice (smooth) feeling. The amount of the glycyrrhizin composition blended is 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition (formulation) of the cosmetic. When the amount is less than 0.01% by weight, the emulsifying power decreases, and when it is more than 20% by weight, the solubility in an aqueous system decreases, and it is also economically unfavorable. The oily substances used in the present invention include known oily substances for skin cosmetics, such as higher aliphatic hydrocarbons, animal oils, vegetable oils, waxes, higher alcohols, higher fatty acids, ester oils, silicone oil, etc. Examples of hydrocarbons include liquid paraffin,
Squalane, petrolatum, ceresin, solid vegetable oils such as olive oil, almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, cacao butter, palm oil, etc.; animal oils such as cod liver oil, beef tallow, butter fat, etc.
Examples of waxes include beeswax and carnauba wax; examples of higher fatty acids include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid, and lanolin fatty acids; examples of higher alcohols include lauryl alcohol, Examples of ester oils such as stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and oleyl alcohol include straight chain esters and branched chain esters such as butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, octyldodecyl myristate, diisopropyl adipate, and diisopropyl sebacate. . These oily substances may be used alone or in combination of two or more. Its usage amount (content) is 15 to 80% by weight, preferably 20 to 70% by weight. 15% by weight
When the amount is less than 80% by weight, the emulsion stability deteriorates, and when it is more than 80% by weight, the oil becomes extremely sticky, which is not preferable. Next, the amount of water used (content) is 10 to 90% by weight,
Preferably it is 20 to 80% by weight. Glycyrrhizin compositions that can be used in the present invention include:
It exhibits good surfactant ability (ability to lower interfacial tension) regardless of pH conditions, and can emulsify the oily substances fairly stably, but when the amount of oily substances blended is large, lecithin, Sugar ester (higher fatty acid ester of sucrose), casein soda, N-
When blending with at least one natural surfactant selected from the group consisting of (higher) acyl glutamate, pectin, xanthan gum, karaya gum, and locust bean gum, oil-based substances can be emulsified extremely stably. . Furthermore, when at least one of the glycyrrhizin compositions or this and at least one of the natural surfactants are used together as an emulsifier,
The bubbles generated during manufacturing (emulsification) disappear naturally and quickly, and are combined with water-soluble polysaccharides such as pectin.
There is no need to perform vacuum defoaming during manufacturing, which is required when using 18β-glycyrrhizin, and 18β-
Another feature of the present invention is that it does not gel under weak acidity or exhibit extreme structural viscosity, unlike when glycyrrhizin alone is used as an emulsifier. In addition, it has a mild pH for the skin, which has been frequently used recently.
Acidic cosmetics of around 5 can exhibit good fluidity and feel when applied without gelling. The above-mentioned natural surfactants can be used alone or in combination of two or more, and the blending amount is 0.1 based on the total weight in the composition of the cosmetic.
-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-5% by weight. In the cosmetics of the present invention, it is not necessary to add pigments in pine surge cream, cleansing cream, skin cream, skin milk, hair cream, etc., but in foundation cream and liquid makeup base, in addition to the above-mentioned ingredients, it is not necessary to add pigments. Pigments must be added and blended. The amount of pigment used is 10% by weight or less, preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, based on the weight of the composition. Examples of pigments include titanium oxide, kaolin,
Examples include inorganic pigments such as yellow iron oxide, ferric oxide, triiron tetroxide, and talc. Furthermore, small amounts of cosmetic medicinal ingredients, fragrances, preservatives, coloring agents, and synthetic surfactants may be added as desired. The cream-like or emulsion-like cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by known methods such as heating and stirring water and the glycyrrhizin composition to dissolve the composition, and then adding the molten oily substance thereto while stirring and mixing to emulsify. manufactured by the method. The cream or milky cosmetics of the present invention include, for example, pine surge cream, cleansing cream, skin cream, skin milk, foundation cream, liquid makeup base,
It is applied to many creamy or emulsion-like cosmetics such as hair creams for skin and hair. The cream or milky lotion cosmetic of the present invention does not irritate the skin, has high safety and affinity for the skin, has fine texture, has a good appearance with high gloss, and is stable as an emulsion. Excellent properties and storage stability. The glycyrrhizin composition used in the present invention is highly safe for the skin, and even in an aqueous system, it does not gel due to the pH, compounding concentration, low temperature, addition of water-soluble metals, etc., and easily defoams when dissolved. The emulsified cosmetics made using this emulsion can be easily removed from the fingers, have good fluidity, have no uneven application, and have extremely good quality stability in terms of hardness, viscosity, feel, etc., and the feeling of use is as follows.
The finish is crisp and has a smooth feel, and its commercial value is extremely high. Such remarkable properties cannot be obtained by using conventional 18β-glycyrrhizin, and are due to the properties of the glycyrrhizin composition in an aqueous system.
This fact is also clear from the comparison results in Examples described below. The present invention will be explained below with reference to Examples. In addition, "parts" shown in the examples refer to parts by weight, and α:
β means 18α-glycyrrhizin and 18β
- means the composition ratio (molar ratio) of glycyrrhizin. The glossiness was measured according to method 2 of the glossiness measurement method of JIS-Z8741-1962. Example 1 (pine surge cream) [1] Production of monoammonium glycyrrhizinate composition 200 parts of 18β-glycyrrhizin monoammonium (purity 80%) made from licorice was mixed with 4N-NaOH100
ml and the solution was heated under reflux at normal pressure for 7.5 hours. After this, add sulfuric acid to the reaction mixture to pH
The precipitate produced by adjusting the amount of 69.6 moles of 18α-isomer and 18β-isomer
118 parts of a 30.4 mol mixture) were obtained. [2] Preparation of skin cream A Prescription 1 Cetyl alcohol 17 parts 2 Isocetyl myristate 12 3 Squalane 3 4 Liquid paraffin 22 5 Monoammonium glycyrrhizinate composition (α:β = 69.6 mol: 30.4 mol) 5 6 Methylparaben 0.2 7 Propylene Glycol 6 8 Pure water 34.6 9 Fragrance 0.2 B Production Uniformly dissolve oily components 1, 2, 3, and 4 of the above ingredients at 80°C (solution 1). Water-soluble components 5, 6, 7, and 8 of the above components are uniformly dissolved at 80°C (solution 2). Next, while stirring Solution 2 with a homomixer, Solution 1 is added and emulsified, followed by cooling. In addition, component 9 was added at 70℃ during the cooling process, and 30℃
After the temperature was lowered to ℃, stirring was stopped. The skin cream thus obtained is an O/W type emulsion that improves skin texture,
It had a good appearance including gloss, and remained extremely stable even after being stored for 3 months in a constant temperature bath at 5 to 45°C. Example 2 (pine surge cream) A Prescription 1 Liquid paraffin 50 parts 2 Cetyl alcohol 5 3 Shugar ester 2 4 Monoammonium glycyrrhizinate composition (α:β = 69.6 mol: 30.4 mol) 2 5 Methyl paraben 0.2 6 Pure water 33 7 Fragrance 0.3 B Manufacture Manufactured according to Example 1. The thus obtained pine surge cream is O/W.
The molded emulsion has a good appearance such as texture and luster.
It remained extremely stable even after being stored for 6 months in a constant temperature bath at 5-45°C. Example 3 Monoammonium glycyrrhizinate (α:β=
69.6 mol: 30.4 mol), each pine surge cream was produced in the same manner as in Example 1, except that monoammonium glycyrrhizinate with different α, β isomer ratios as shown in Table 1 was used. We investigated its hardness over time. The results are shown in Table 1. The results show that when the α isomer ratio is less than 30 mol %, gelation occurs, as with the β isomer alone, and it is difficult to remove from the fingers and does not blend well with the skin, which is poor from a practical point of view.
【表】【table】
【表】
硬度測定:カードテンシオメーターを使用。
実施例4 (スキンクリーム)
A 処方
1 セチルアルコール 6部
2 ヒマシ油 2
3 レシチン 1
4 流動パラフイン 20
5 グリチルリチン酸モノカリウム組成物
(α:β=60.8モル:39.2モル) 1.2
6 プロピレングリコール 5
7 メチルパラベン 0.2
8 純 水 64.4
9 香 料 0.2
B 製造:実施例1に準じた
かくして得られたスキンクリームはO/W型の
エマルジヨンで肌目、光沢等の外観が良く、5〜
45℃の恒温槽内で6ケ月後も極めて安定であつ
た。
比較例 1
グリチルリチン酸モノカリウム組成物(α:β
=60.8モル:39.2モル)の代わりに、18β―グリ
チルリチン酸モノカリウムを使用する他は、実施
例4と同様に製造した。
その結果、得られたスキンクリームはO/W型
のエマルジヨンで肌目、光沢等の外観が良いが、
低温(5〜30℃)でゲル化し、固くなり、指とれ
及び肌なじみが悪く、塗布時にスベリがありむら
となる。尚、感触はズルズルと糸引きがあり、ベ
タツキがある。
実施例5 (スキンミルク)
A 処方
1 セチルアルコール 5部
2 ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル 1.5
3 流動パラフイン 20.0
4 ペクチン 2.0
5 グリチルリチン酸組成物(α:β=78モ
ル:22モル) 2.0
6 メチルパラベン 0.3
7 純 水 69.0
8 香 料 0.2
B 製造
上記成分の油性成分の1,2,3を80℃にて均
一に溶解する(溶液1)。
上記成分の4〜7を80℃にて均一に溶解する
(溶液2)。次に溶液2をホモミキサーで撹拌しな
がら、溶液1を添加して乳化した後冷却した。
尚、その冷却過程の70℃で成分8を添加し、30
℃に降温後撹拌を停止した。かくして得られたス
キンミルクはO/W型のエマルジヨンで完全に自
然脱泡されていた。また肌目、光沢等の外観が良
く5〜40℃の恒温槽内で3ケ月後も極めて安定
で、流動性にも優れていた。粘度は、各恒温槽に
おいて1000〜4500cpsの範囲であつた。
比較例 2
グリチルリチン酸(α:β=78モル:22モル)
の代わりに、18β―グリチルリチン酸を使用する
他は、実施例5と同様に製造したが、自然脱泡が
できなかつたので、更に吸引脱泡したがそれでも
可成りの小泡が残存していた。吸引脱泡した後の
スキンミルクは5〜40℃の恒温槽内で3ケ月後も
安定であつた。しかし、粘度は経日とともに上昇
し、流動性が悪くなり、糸を引いて容器から出な
くなつた。粘度は、製造直后1300cps(30℃)であ
つたが翌日13500cps(30℃)となつた。
また、実施例5のスキンミルクと比較例2のス
キンミルクとを、シリンダーポンプ式充填機によ
るシエアー付加による粘度変化、乳化状態を調べ
た。その結果、第2表に示したように比較例2が
シエアー付加による粘度低下が著しく、乳化状態
の悪化も著しく、18α―グリチルリチン組成物使
用の実施例5がシエアー付加による影響が小さい
ことが判明した。[Table] Hardness measurement: Use a card tensiometer.
Example 4 (Skin cream) A Prescription 1 Cetyl alcohol 6 parts 2 Castor oil 2 3 Lecithin 1 4 Liquid paraffin 20 5 Monopotassium glycyrrhizinate composition (α:β = 60.8 mol: 39.2 mol) 1.2 6 Propylene glycol 5 7 Methyl paraben 0.2 8 Pure water 64.4 9 Fragrance 0.2 B Manufacture: According to Example 1 The thus obtained skin cream is an O/W type emulsion with good appearance such as texture and gloss, and has a rating of 5~
It remained extremely stable even after 6 months in a constant temperature bath at 45°C. Comparative Example 1 Monopotassium glycyrrhizinate composition (α:β
It was produced in the same manner as in Example 4, except that monopotassium 18β-glycyrrhizinate was used instead of (=60.8 mol: 39.2 mol). As a result, the obtained skin cream is an O/W type emulsion with good appearance such as texture and gloss, but
It gels at low temperatures (5 to 30°C), becomes hard, does not come off easily on the fingers, does not blend well with the skin, and becomes slippery and uneven when applied. In addition, the texture is slippery, stringy, and sticky. Example 5 (Skin milk) A Prescription 1 Cetyl alcohol 5 parts 2 Octyldodecyl myristate 1.5 3 Liquid paraffin 20.0 4 Pectin 2.0 5 Glycyrrhizic acid composition (α:β=78 mol: 22 mol) 2.0 6 Methylparaben 0.3 7 Pure water 69.0 8 Fragrance 0.2 B Production Uniformly dissolve oily components 1, 2, and 3 of the above ingredients at 80°C (solution 1). The above components 4 to 7 are uniformly dissolved at 80°C (solution 2). Next, Solution 1 was added to Solution 2 while stirring with a homomixer, emulsified, and then cooled. In addition, component 8 was added at 70℃ during the cooling process, and 30℃
After the temperature was lowered to ℃, stirring was stopped. The skin milk thus obtained was an O/W type emulsion and was completely defoamed naturally. In addition, it had good appearance such as texture and gloss, was extremely stable even after 3 months in a constant temperature bath at 5 to 40°C, and had excellent fluidity. The viscosity ranged from 1000 to 4500 cps in each thermostatic bath. Comparative example 2 Glycyrrhizic acid (α:β=78 mol:22 mol)
The product was produced in the same manner as in Example 5, except that 18β-glycyrrhizinic acid was used instead of 18β-glycyrrhizinic acid, but since natural defoaming was not possible, further defoaming was performed by suction, but still considerable small bubbles remained. . The skin milk after suction defoaming remained stable even after 3 months in a constant temperature bath at 5 to 40°C. However, the viscosity increased over time, the fluidity deteriorated, and the solution became stringy and could no longer be released from the container. The viscosity was 1300 cps (30°C) immediately after production, but it increased to 13500 cps (30°C) the next day. Further, the skin milk of Example 5 and the skin milk of Comparative Example 2 were examined for viscosity change and emulsification state due to addition of shear using a cylinder pump filling machine. As a result, as shown in Table 2, in Comparative Example 2, the viscosity decreased significantly due to the addition of shear, and the emulsification state deteriorated significantly, while in Example 5, which used the 18α-glycyrrhizin composition, the effect of the addition of shear was small. did.
【表】
注:シエアー:シリンダーポンプ式充填機に
よる2Kg/cm2の付加シエアー。
単位:センチポイズ
実施例6 (クレンジングクリーム)
A 処方
1 セチルアルコール 5部
2 流動パラフイン 60
3 グリチルリチン酸モノナトリウム組成物
(α:β=35.7モル:64.3モル) 5
4 メチルパラベン 0.2
5 純 水 29.5
6 香 料 0.3
B 製造
実施例1に準じて製造した。
かくして得られたクレンジングクリームはO/
W型のエマルジヨンで肌目、光沢等の外観が良
く、5〜45℃の恒温槽で6ケ月後も極めて安定で
あつた。
実施例7 (クリーム状又は乳液状の乳化物)
流動パラフインの使用重量部を変えて、他は実
施例5と同様に製造した。
その結果、得られた乳化物について、肌目、感
触、45℃保存経日安定性を調べ、第3表に示し
た。第3表で示されたように、油性物質が15重量
%より少ないと、又は80重量%より多いと乳化安
定性が悪い。また油性物質量が多くなるとともに
感触が悪くなつた。[Table] Note: Shear: Additional shear of 2Kg/cm 2 by cylinder pump filling machine.
Unit: Centipoise Example 6 (Cleansing Cream) A Prescription 1 Cetyl alcohol 5 parts 2 Liquid paraffin 60 3 Monosodium glycyrrhizinate composition (α:β=35.7 mol: 64.3 mol) 5 4 Methylparaben 0.2 5 Pure water 29.5 6 Fragrance 0.3 B Manufacture Manufactured according to Example 1. The cleansing cream thus obtained is O/
The W-shaped emulsion had good appearance such as texture and gloss, and remained extremely stable even after 6 months in a constant temperature bath at 5 to 45°C. Example 7 (Cream or milky emulsion) A product was produced in the same manner as in Example 5 except that the weight part of liquid paraffin used was changed. As a result, the resulting emulsion was examined for texture, feel, and stability over time when stored at 45°C, and the results are shown in Table 3. As shown in Table 3, when the oily substance is less than 15% by weight or more than 80% by weight, the emulsion stability is poor. Furthermore, as the amount of oily substances increased, the feel became worse.
【表】
実施例8 (クレンジングミルク)
A 処方
1 流動パラフイン 50部
2 ミリスチン酸イソセチル 2
3 キサンタンガム 1
4 アシルグルタミン酸ナトリウム 0.5
5 グリチルリチン酸モノアンモニウム組成物
1
6 メチルパラベン 0.2
7 純 水 47
8 香 料 0.3
B 製造:実施例1に準じて製造した。
かくして得られたクレンジングミルクは、粘度
4300cpsのO/W型のエマルジヨンで肌目、光沢
等の外観が良く、5〜45℃の恒温槽で3ケ月後も
極めて安定であつた。
実施例 9
第4表にもとづく処方で常法に準じてクリーム
を調整した。
得られた各クリームの特性を第5表に示した。[Table] Example 8 (Cleansing Milk) A Prescription 1 Liquid paraffin 50 parts 2 Isocetyl myristate 2 3 Xanthan gum 1 4 Sodium acylglutamate 0.5 5 Monoammonium glycyrrhizinate composition
1 6 Methylparaben 0.2 7 Pure water 47 8 Fragrance 0.3 B Production: Produced according to Example 1. The cleansing milk thus obtained has a viscosity of
The emulsion was an O/W type emulsion of 4300 cps, with good appearance such as texture and gloss, and remained extremely stable even after 3 months in a constant temperature bath at 5 to 45°C. Example 9 A cream was prepared according to a conventional method using the formulation shown in Table 4. Table 5 shows the characteristics of each cream obtained.
【表】【table】
【表】【table】
【表】
第6表より明らかな如く、グリチルリチン組成
物が0.01〜20重量%では良好なクリームが得られ
た。これに対し0.01重量%未満では、乳化せず、
20重量%を越えると、やや溶解性が低下し、経日
と共に結晶化し、光沢、肌目が悪化した。
比較例 3
グリチルリチン酸モノアンモニウム(α:β=
70モル:30モル)の代りに、18β―グリチルリチ
ン酸モノアンモニウムを使用する他は、実施例9
のクリーム試料No.4の場合と同様に製造をしよう
としたが、自然脱泡によつては全く脱泡できなか
つた。
次に再度、乳化から冷却停止迄の全工程を減圧
下に脱泡することによつてはじめて完全脱泡が可
能であつた。
得られたクリームはO/W型のエマルジヨン
で、光沢度は製造直后で80、6ケ月後は55であつ
た。またこのクリームは低温(5〜30℃)でゲル
化して、硬くなり指とれ及び肌なじみが悪く、塗
布時にスベリがあり、むらとなつた。
尚、ズルズルと糸引きがあり、ベタツキのある
わるい感触を与えた。[Table] As is clear from Table 6, good creams were obtained when the glycyrrhizin composition was 0.01 to 20% by weight. On the other hand, if it is less than 0.01% by weight, it will not emulsify.
When it exceeds 20% by weight, the solubility slightly decreases, crystallization occurs over time, and gloss and texture deteriorate. Comparative Example 3 Monoammonium glycyrrhizinate (α:β=
Example 9 except that monoammonium 18β-glycyrrhizinate was used instead of 70 mol: 30 mol)
An attempt was made to manufacture the cream in the same manner as in the case of cream sample No. 4, but it was not possible to defoamer at all by natural defoaming. Next, complete defoaming was only possible by defoaming the entire process from emulsification to stopping cooling under reduced pressure. The resulting cream was an O/W type emulsion, and its gloss level was 80 immediately after production and 55 after 6 months. Moreover, this cream gelatinized at low temperatures (5 to 30°C) and became hard, making it hard to remove from the fingers and blending into the skin, and it was slippery and uneven when applied. In addition, it was slippery and stringy, giving an unpleasant sticky feel.
Claims (1)
0.01〜20.0重量%(重量%は、当該化粧料の重量
基準、以下同じ)、油性物質を15%〜80重量%、
及び水を配合してなる、クリーム状または乳液状
の化粧料。 Γ グリチルリチン組成物: 18α―グリチルリチン酸、18α―グリチルリ
チン酸モノナトリウム、18α―グリチルリチン
酸モノカリウム、18α―グリチルリチン酸モノ
アンモニウムからなる群より選択された18α―
グリチルリチンの少なくとも一つが30〜98モル
%と、 18β―グリチルリチン酸、18β―グリチルリ
チン酸モノナトリウム、18β―グリチルリチン
酸モノカリウム、18β―グリチルリチン酸モノ
アンモニウムからなる群より選択された18β―
グリチルリチンの少なくとも一つが2〜70モル
%とからなる組成物。[Claims] 1. The following glycyrrhizin composition is used as an emulsifier.
0.01 to 20.0% by weight (weight% is based on the weight of the cosmetic concerned, the same applies hereinafter), 15% to 80% by weight of oily substances,
A cream or milky lotion cosmetic containing water and water. Γ Glycyrrhizin composition: 18α- selected from the group consisting of 18α-glycyrrhizic acid, monosodium 18α-glycyrrhizinate, monopotassium 18α-glycyrrhizinate, and monoammonium 18α-glycyrrhizinate.
At least one of glycyrrhizin is 30 to 98 mol%, and 18β- selected from the group consisting of 18β-glycyrrhizic acid, monosodium 18β-glycyrrhizinate, monopotassium 18β-glycyrrhizinate, and monoammonium 18β-glycyrrhizinate.
A composition comprising 2 to 70 mol% of at least one glycyrrhizin.
Priority Applications (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP2960780A JPS56125305A (en) | 1980-03-08 | 1980-03-08 | Creamy or milky lotion cosmetic |
GB8106596A GB2072014B (en) | 1980-03-08 | 1981-03-03 | Cosmetics containing 18-glycyrrhizins |
US06/241,525 US4424204A (en) | 1980-03-08 | 1981-03-09 | Creamy or milky skin cosmetic compositions |
FR8104650A FR2477412A1 (en) | 1980-03-08 | 1981-03-09 | COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR SKIN CARE IN THE FORM OF CREAM OR MILK |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP2960780A JPS56125305A (en) | 1980-03-08 | 1980-03-08 | Creamy or milky lotion cosmetic |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
JPS56125305A JPS56125305A (en) | 1981-10-01 |
JPS6323963B2 true JPS6323963B2 (en) | 1988-05-18 |
Family
ID=12280744
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
JP2960780A Granted JPS56125305A (en) | 1980-03-08 | 1980-03-08 | Creamy or milky lotion cosmetic |
Country Status (1)
Country | Link |
---|---|
JP (1) | JPS56125305A (en) |
Families Citing this family (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPS5762214A (en) * | 1980-10-02 | 1982-04-15 | Kanebo Ltd | Creamy or milky cosmetic |
JPS5762215A (en) * | 1980-10-02 | 1982-04-15 | Kanebo Ltd | Transparent cosmetic |
JPS58163429A (en) * | 1982-03-20 | 1983-09-28 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Emulsifier composition |
JPS594432A (en) * | 1982-06-28 | 1984-01-11 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Emulsion composition |
-
1980
- 1980-03-08 JP JP2960780A patent/JPS56125305A/en active Granted
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
JPS56125305A (en) | 1981-10-01 |
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