JPS6317135B2 - - Google Patents
Info
- Publication number
- JPS6317135B2 JPS6317135B2 JP55154628A JP15462880A JPS6317135B2 JP S6317135 B2 JPS6317135 B2 JP S6317135B2 JP 55154628 A JP55154628 A JP 55154628A JP 15462880 A JP15462880 A JP 15462880A JP S6317135 B2 JPS6317135 B2 JP S6317135B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- thick
- false
- thin
- twisted
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
Links
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 7
- 230000004927 fusion Effects 0.000 description 6
- -1 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000005299 abrasion Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000006866 deterioration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000007789 sealing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Description
【発明の詳細な説明】
本発明はシヤリ味のある絣調仮撚二層構造糸に
関するものである。DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a kasuri-like false-twisted two-layer structured yarn with a silky texture.
従来、シヤリ味のある絣調加工糸として、延伸
による太細斑を有する糸(所謂シツクアンドシン
ヤーン)を単独で仮撚加工しその際、配向性の低
い太い部分を融着させた糸が知られている。しか
し、このような糸は、地糸部が捲縮によるバルキ
ー化している為、実用上要求される程のシヤリ味
がなく、そうかといつて全体を融着させると硬す
ぎるという欠点を持つていた。また、このような
糸は融着濃染部の熱劣化が進み、このため強力が
弱く、製織性に難がある。この製織性の問題を解
消するため、延伸斑を有する糸と均一な糸とを引
揃えて仮撚加工した糸も知られているが、これも
前記糸と同様にシヤリ味に欠けるものであつた。
本発明の目的はこのような欠点を排除して、高級
感のあるシヤリ味を有する絣調加工糸を提供する
ことにある。 Conventionally, yarns with thick and thin spots due to stretching (so-called thick-and-thin yarns) were individually false-twisted to produce Kasuri-like textured yarns with a shirring effect. Are known. However, since the base thread of this type of yarn is bulky due to crimping, it does not have the slickness that is required for practical use, and if the entire yarn is fused together, it is too hard. Ta. In addition, such yarns undergo thermal deterioration in the fused and darkly dyed portions, resulting in low strength and difficulty in weaving. In order to solve this problem of weavability, it is known that a yarn with uneven stretching and a uniform yarn are aligned and subjected to a false twisting process, but like the above-mentioned yarn, this yarn also lacks a smooth feel. Ta.
An object of the present invention is to eliminate such drawbacks and provide a Kasuri-like textured yarn that has a luxurious and silky feel.
本発明者等は上記の目的を達成せんとして種々
検討した結果、シツクアンドシンヤーンを単独乃
至他糸条との引揃えて加工によつては糸強度、シ
ヤリ感と絣調効果を並存させることは困難である
が、もし強力的に問題のない糸条を芯糸としてそ
の囲りに該シツクアンドシンヤーンを交互撚糸状
に巻付けるとき、優れた製織性、絣調効果を呈
し、しかも撚糸風のシヤリ味をも有する加工糸が
得られることを知つた。 As a result of various studies aimed at achieving the above object, the inventors of the present invention found that by processing the thick-and-thin yarn alone or with other yarns, yarn strength, a silky feel, and a kasuri-like effect can coexist. However, if the thick and thin yarn is wound around the core thread in an alternately twisted form, it will exhibit excellent weavability and Kasuri-like effect, and will also have excellent weavability and kasuri-like effect. I learned that it is possible to obtain processed yarn that also has a wind-like texture.
すなわち、本発明は、芯糸の周りにシツクアン
ドシンヤーンの巻付糸が交互撚糸状に巻付いてな
る仮撚二層構造糸であつて、
(a) シツクアンドシンヤーンのシン部が交互撚巻
付で巻付いているかまたは仮撚加工の施撚方向
と反対方向の撚で巻付いてなる、染色により淡
染する地糸部Aおよびび
(b) シツクアンドシンヤーンのシツク部が仮撚加
工の施撚方向の撚で巻付いてなる、染色により
濃染する効果部B
とをその糸軸方向に沿つて交互に有し、他方
(c) 芯糸の融着により芯糸と巻付糸との界面が固
定されている
シヤリ味のある絣調仮撚二層構造糸である。 That is, the present invention provides a false-twisted two-layer structured yarn in which thick-and-thin yarns are alternately twisted around a core yarn, and (a) the thin portions of the thick-and-thin yarns are alternately twisted. (b) The thick part of the thick-and-thin yarn is twisted and twisted or twisted in the direction opposite to the twisting direction of the false twisting process. Effect parts B, which are wound in the twisting direction of the twisting process and dyed deeply by dyeing, are alternately arranged along the yarn axis direction, and the other part (c) is formed by fusing the core yarn to form the core yarn and the winding. It is a double-layered yarn with a Kasuri-like false twist structure that has a fixed interface with the thread.
更に本発明を詳しく説明すると、第1図は本発
明による糸の一具体例であつて、これは芯糸1と
シツクアンドシンヤーンからなる巻付糸4から成
る二層構造糸で、染色により淡染する地糸部A
(シツクアンドシンヤーンのシン部が巻付いた部
分)と濃染する効果部B(シツクアンドシンヤー
ンのシツク部が巻付いた部分)を有する。ここで
地糸部Aは交互撚巻付又は仮撚加工の施撚方向と
反対方向(一方向)の巻付から、効果部Bは一方
向撚(仮撚加工の施撚方向と一致)巻付からな
り、これらの撚巻付によつて糸全体としては撚糸
的なシヤリ味が得られる。更に効果部Bの巻付糸
4を融着させた場合、その融着と一方向の連続撚
巻付効果によつて一層シヤリ味が増長される。ま
た、同時に効果部Bは配向の低い部分であり地糸
部Aに比して濃染するので絣調外観効果が得られ
る。 To further explain the present invention in detail, Fig. 1 shows a specific example of the yarn according to the present invention, which is a two-layered yarn consisting of a core yarn 1 and a wrapped yarn 4 made of thick and thin yarn, and is dyed. Ground thread part A to be light dyed
(the part where the thin part of the thick and thin yarn is wrapped) and the effect part B (the part where the thick part of the thick and thin yarn is wrapped) which is darkly dyed. Here, the ground yarn part A is wound in the opposite direction (one direction) to the twisting direction of alternate twisting or false twisting, and the effect part B is unidirectionally twisted (same direction as the twisting direction of false twisting). These twisted windings give the thread as a whole a smooth texture similar to that of a twisted thread. Furthermore, when the winding thread 4 of the effect part B is fused, the fusion and the effect of continuous twisting and winding in one direction further enhance the crispness. At the same time, since the effect part B is a part with low orientation and is dyed darker than the ground thread part A, a splashed pattern appearance effect can be obtained.
ここで、地糸部Aの交互撚巻付が用途によつて
は後工程でしごかれ滑つてネツプを生じる場合も
あるので、このような場合は芯糸1を融着させて
芯糸1と巻付糸4の界面を固着させる。 Here, depending on the application, the alternate twist winding of the ground yarn part A may be squeezed in the subsequent process and slip, resulting in neps, so in such cases, the core yarn 1 is fused and The interface between the wound thread 4 and the wrapped thread 4 is fixed.
尚、地糸部Aにおける巻付糸4の巻付方向は効
果部Bの頻度との関係で変つてくる。すなわち効
果部Bが多ければA部はほぼ効果部Bと反対方向
の巻付状態を、他方効果部Bが少なくなるとわず
かながらも仮撚方向の撚が入つた交互巻付状態を
とるようになる。第2図は本発明の加工糸を作る
工程の一例を示すものである。 Note that the winding direction of the winding yarn 4 in the ground yarn portion A changes depending on the frequency of the effect portion B. In other words, if there is a large number of effect areas B, part A will be wound almost in the opposite direction to the effect area B, and on the other hand, if there are fewer effect areas B, the part A will be wound alternately with a slight twist in the false twist direction. . FIG. 2 shows an example of the process of making the processed yarn of the present invention.
芯糸1は第一フイードローラー2により供給さ
れ、仮撚装置3にて回転力を伝えられて仮撚状態
となる。これに対し捲付糸4は第二フイードロー
ラー5、ガイド9を経て仮撚状態となつている芯
糸1′にその回転力で捲付かせる様にして供給す
る。その状態でヒーター6により熱セツトし、仮
撚装置3、デリベリローラー7を経てワインダー
8に捲き取ると、芯糸の周囲を捲付糸が取捲いた
2層構造糸が得られる。 The core yarn 1 is fed by a first feed roller 2, and is subjected to a rotational force by a false twisting device 3 to be in a false twist state. On the other hand, the wound yarn 4 is fed through a second feed roller 5 and a guide 9 so as to be wound around the false-twisted core yarn 1' by its rotational force. In this state, the yarn is heated by a heater 6, passed through a false twisting device 3 and a delivery roller 7, and then wound into a winder 8 to obtain a two-layer structured yarn in which the wound yarn is wound around the core yarn.
ここで、芯糸には実質的に均一な糸を、巻付糸
には例えば太細の延伸斑を有する糸を用いる。そ
の太細の程度を複屈折度(△n)でいえば、太い
部分は糸の任意の断面内において△n=15〜80×
10-3の単繊維が全構成繊維本数の1/4以上を占め、
他方細い部分は△n=100〜200×10-3の単繊維が
全構成繊維の1/10以上を占める糸が適している。
また太い部分は全部の構成単繊維が配向の低い繊
維からなるよりも配向の高い繊維が1/4以上混在
する方が織編物の摩耗強力の点で好ましい。 Here, a substantially uniform yarn is used as the core yarn, and a yarn with thick and thin drawing irregularities, for example, is used as the winding yarn. If the degree of thickness is expressed as the degree of birefringence (△n), the thick part is △n = 15 to 80 × within any cross section of the thread.
10 -3 single fibers account for more than 1/4 of the total number of constituent fibers,
On the other hand, for the thin part, a yarn in which single fibers of Δn=100 to 200×10 −3 account for 1/10 or more of the total constituent fibers is suitable.
In addition, in terms of the abrasion strength of the woven or knitted material, it is preferable that at least 1/4 of the thick portions are made up of highly oriented fibers rather than all of the constituent single fibers being composed of poorly oriented fibers.
上記工程において特に芯糸を融着させる場合、
芯糸1としては延伸仮撚できる未延伸糸又は高配
向未延伸糸が好適である。勿論、この場合捲付糸
4としては、芯糸1よりも地糸部は一般には熱融
着温度の高いものを用いる。また、このような未
延伸原糸を使用して、いわゆる普通の延伸仮撚加
工の場合より低い延伸倍率を使用すると、芯糸融
着の発生温度が低くなり、ヒーター温度を低く設
定でき、経済的であると同時に巻付地糸部の熱融
着を防止できる利点がある。例えば伸度120%、
自然延伸倍率1.35倍のポリエチレンテレフタレー
ト糸(115de/36fils)を普通の延伸仮撚加工で
用いる1.5倍の延伸倍率で加工した場合255℃が融
着開始温度となるが、延伸倍率を自然延伸倍率近
辺の1.3倍で加工すると235℃が融着開始温度とな
る。 Especially when fusing the core yarn in the above process,
As the core yarn 1, undrawn yarn or highly oriented undrawn yarn that can be drawn and false twisted is suitable. Of course, in this case, as the winding yarn 4, a yarn whose base yarn portion generally has a higher heat-sealing temperature than the core yarn 1 is used. In addition, if such undrawn yarn is used and a draw ratio lower than that in the so-called ordinary draw false twisting process is used, the temperature at which core yarn fusion occurs will be lower, the heater temperature can be set lower, and it is more economical. It has the advantage of being able to prevent heat fusion of the wrapped yarn portion. For example, elongation is 120%,
When polyethylene terephthalate yarn (115de/36fils) with a natural draw ratio of 1.35 times is processed at a draw ratio of 1.5 times as used in ordinary stretch false twist processing, the fusion start temperature will be 255°C, but if the draw ratio is set near the natural draw ratio When processed at 1.3 times the temperature, the temperature at which fusion starts will be 235°C.
また、芯糸用原糸として延伸糸を用いた場合、
融着により伸度が低くなりがちであるが、未延伸
糸又は高配向未延伸糸を用いる延伸仮撚するとき
は30%以上の伸度が確保できる。 In addition, when drawn yarn is used as the core yarn,
Although elongation tends to decrease due to fusing, elongation of 30% or more can be ensured when drawing and false twisting is performed using undrawn yarn or highly oriented undrawn yarn.
本発明において、芯糸、巻付糸としてはポリエ
チレンテレフタレート系重合体が最も好ましいが
目的によりその他の素材を用いることも出来る。 In the present invention, polyethylene terephthalate polymer is most preferred as the core thread and the winding thread, but other materials may be used depending on the purpose.
又、仮撚数は加工糸デニールに対し、次式で示
す範囲が好ましい。 Further, the number of false twists is preferably in the range shown by the following formula with respect to the processed yarn denier.
この場合の仮撚温度は、巻付糸の濃染部だけを
融着する場合、或は芯糸も融着させる場合等用途
に応じて、200〜240℃の範囲で選べばよい。 The false twisting temperature in this case may be selected within the range of 200 to 240°C depending on the application, such as when only the darkly dyed portion of the wrapped yarn is fused, or when the core yarn is also fused.
この様に、本発明によれば張力乃至強力担持体
としての芯糸の周りにシツクアンドシンヤーンを
仮撚により巻付けるようにしたので高級感のある
撚糸的なシヤリ味を有する絣調加工糸が得られ
る。 As described above, according to the present invention, the thick-and-thin yarn is wrapped around the core thread as a tension or strong carrier by false twisting, so the Kasuri-like textured yarn has a high-quality, twisted yarn-like texture. is obtained.
実施例
ポリエチレンテレフタレートの高配向未延伸糸
115de、36fils(紡糸速度3300m/min)を芯糸と
し、他方、太細斑を有するポリエチレンテレフタ
レート延伸糸(紡糸速度1300m/minで紡糸した
未延伸糸を延伸倍率2.2で低温斑延伸した糸)
50de、48filsを巻付糸とし、第2図の工程で加工
温度240℃、仮撚数2330T/m(Z撚)、加工速度
100m/min、巻付糸のオーバーフイード率80%
(対芯糸フイード速度)、仮撚延伸倍率1.3倍で加
工した。Example Highly oriented undrawn yarn of polyethylene terephthalate
115 de, 36 fils (spinning speed 3300 m/min) was used as the core yarn, and on the other hand, a drawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn having thick and thin spots (a yarn obtained by drawing an undrawn yarn spun at a spinning speed of 1300 m/min and stretching it with low temperature spots at a draw ratio of 2.2).
Using 50de and 48fils as the winding yarn, the processing temperature is 240℃, the number of false twists is 2330T/m (Z twist), and the processing speed is as shown in Figure 2.
100m/min, overfeed rate of wrapped yarn 80%
(pair-to-core yarn feed speed) and the false twist draw ratio was 1.3 times.
尚、この延伸倍率での芯糸の熱融着温度は235
〜240℃であつた。 Furthermore, the heat fusion temperature of the core yarn at this stretching ratio is 235
It was ~240℃.
得られた加工糸は第1図に示すような構造を有
し、効果部の巻付糸は融着しており、また芯糸も
部分的に融着しており、巻付糸との界面固着が認
められた。この糸を製織し、染色した所、シヤリ
味のある絣調織物が得られた。 The obtained processed yarn has a structure as shown in Figure 1, in which the winding yarn in the effect part is fused, the core yarn is also partially fused, and the interface with the winding yarn is fused. Adhesion was observed. When this thread was woven and dyed, a kasuri-like fabric with a silky texture was obtained.
第1図は本発明の糸構造の一態様を示すモデル
図、第2図は本発明の加工糸を製造する装置の一
態様を示す略線図である。
A:地糸部、B:効果部、1,1′:芯糸、
2:第1フイードローラ、3:仮撚装置、4:巻
付糸、5:第2フイードローラ、6:ヒーター、
7:デリベリローラ、8:ワインダー、9:ガイ
ド。
FIG. 1 is a model diagram showing one aspect of the yarn structure of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing one aspect of the apparatus for manufacturing the processed yarn of the present invention. A: Ground thread part, B: Effect part, 1, 1': Core thread,
2: first feed roller, 3: false twisting device, 4: winding yarn, 5: second feed roller, 6: heater,
7: Delivery roller, 8: Winder, 9: Guide.
Claims (1)
糸が交互撚糸状に巻付いてなる仮撚二層構造糸で
あつて、 (a) シツクアンドシンヤーンのシン部が交互撚巻
付で巻付いているかまたは仮撚加工の施撚方向
と反対方向の撚で巻付いてなる、染色により淡
染する地糸部Aおよび (b) シツクアンドシンヤーンのシツク部が仮撚加
工の施撚方向の撚で巻付いてなる、染色により
濃染する効果部B とをその糸軸方向に沿つて交互に有し、他方 (c) 芯糸の融着により芯糸と巻付糸との界面が固
定されている シヤリ味のある絣調仮撚二層構造糸。 2 効果部Bが融着している特許請求の範囲第1
項記載のシヤリ味のある絣調仮撚二層構造糸。[Scope of Claims] 1. A false-twisted two-layer structure yarn in which wrapped yarns of thick-and-thin yarn are wound around a core yarn in an alternating twisted yarn pattern, comprising: (a) a thin part of the thick-and-thin yarn; (b) The thick part of the thick-and-thin yarn is wrapped in alternating twists or wrapped in a twist direction opposite to the twisting direction of the false twisting process. Effect parts B, which are wound in the twisting direction of the twisting process and dyed deeply by dyeing, are alternately arranged along the yarn axis direction, and the other part (c) is formed by fusing the core yarn to form the core yarn and the winding. A kasuri-like false-twisted double-layer yarn with a fixed interface with the thread. 2 Claim 1 in which the effect part B is fused
A kasuri-like false-twisted double-layered yarn with a silky texture as described in the section.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP15462880A JPS5782538A (en) | 1980-11-05 | 1980-11-05 | "kasuri" like false twisted two layered structural yarn having "sharimi" |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP15462880A JPS5782538A (en) | 1980-11-05 | 1980-11-05 | "kasuri" like false twisted two layered structural yarn having "sharimi" |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
JPS5782538A JPS5782538A (en) | 1982-05-24 |
JPS6317135B2 true JPS6317135B2 (en) | 1988-04-12 |
Family
ID=15588338
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
JP15462880A Granted JPS5782538A (en) | 1980-11-05 | 1980-11-05 | "kasuri" like false twisted two layered structural yarn having "sharimi" |
Country Status (1)
Country | Link |
---|---|
JP (1) | JPS5782538A (en) |
Families Citing this family (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPS59100727A (en) * | 1982-11-24 | 1984-06-11 | 三菱レイヨン株式会社 | Production of composite false twisted slub yarn |
Citations (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPS5593823A (en) * | 1979-01-05 | 1980-07-16 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co | Production of special crimped yarn |
-
1980
- 1980-11-05 JP JP15462880A patent/JPS5782538A/en active Granted
Patent Citations (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPS5593823A (en) * | 1979-01-05 | 1980-07-16 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co | Production of special crimped yarn |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
JPS5782538A (en) | 1982-05-24 |
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