JPS628536B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to milled fabrics. Specifically, it is a milled fabric made of copolymerized polyester fiber and animal hair.

In general, animal blankets that are mainly made of wool can be divided into clear cut and milled finishes. The clear cut finish is plain and the twill of the weave structure is clearly visible, but the milled finish is characterized by the twill of the woven structure being clearly visible.
It is characterized by sufficient shrinkage in the warp and weft directions, allowing the fluff to come out neatly during the raising and shearing process.

Fluffing is a phenomenon in which the fibers that make up the fabric move in the axial direction due to repeated mechanical action from the outside, causing the fabric to shrink.The shrinking property of animal hair is due to scale. This is because it causes a directional wear effect. Hydrophobic synthetic fibers that are free of scale and have a smooth surface have no shrinkage properties, so non-shrinkable polyester fiber/animal hair blends are suitable for clear cut finishes, but milled finishes that require a shrinkage process are suitable. In the case of finishing, the non-shrinkable polyester fibers inhibit the shrinkage of animal hair, resulting in insufficient shrinkage effect and problems with texture.

Furthermore, when a non-shrinkable polyester/animal hair mixed product is milled, not only the lack of shrinkage is caused, but also the napping is extremely poor. Thus, as a result of increasing the number of times of raising and at the same time applying an excessive raising action, the weft threads contributing to raising become extremely weakened, and the tearing strength in the longitudinal direction is significantly reduced.

Furthermore, in the case of full-fledged milled fabrics (especially flannel fabrics) made of 100% animal hair, it is common to use Bigolo printing on the top, but in the case of polyester/animal hair blends, animal hair can be printed with Bigolo printing as mentioned above. However, polyester requires solid dyeing. There is no problem with solid dyeing in itself, but in order to deepen the color, it is necessary to blend short fibers of at least two colors to match the overall color tone, so that color streaks (steps) are created on the fabric. There was a problem that the quality of the product was extremely poor.

Representative milled finishes include flannel and Saxony fabrics. In particular, the shrinkage rate of flannel fabrics, which have a large elasticity, is about 20% in the warp and 20% in the weft.

The present invention enables a polyester/animal hair blend to have high shrinkage similar to that of a flannel fabric, and has the following configuration.

In other words, in a milled fabric mainly consisting of a mixture of short fibers made of highly shrinkable polyethylene terephthalate fibers and animal hair, the weft yarns constituting the fabric have a higher proportion of animal hair than the warp yarns. It is a milled-like fabric that is characterized by polyethylene terephthalate fibers such as isophthalic acid, meta-
at least one of sodium sulfoisophthalate and 2-2-bis(4′-β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl)propane for all repeating units,
The gist is to use polyester short fibers copolymerized with 4 to 20 mol%, and further to use wool as the animal hair.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

The copolymerized polyester referred to in the present invention refers to the following compound as a third component in an amount of 4 to 20 mol% of the total repeating units.
A copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate fiber.

Here, the first component means terephthalic acid, and the second component means ethylene glycol.

(1) Polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with isophthalic acid. In this case, in addition to the isophthalic acid group, another fourth component may be copolymerized within a range not exceeding 10 mol%. Such fourth components include difunctional carboxylic acids such as adipic acid, sebacic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, trimethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol,
Examples include diol compounds such as 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol. In short, it is necessary to copolymerize 4 mol% or more, preferably 7 to 15 mol%, of isophthalic acid groups. If the copolymerized amount of isophthalic acid groups is less than 4 mol %, the desired large shrinkage performance cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 20 mol %, sufficient thread quality cannot be obtained.

(2) Polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2,2-bis(4'-β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl)propane. In this case, 2,2-
Bis(4′-β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl)
In addition to propane, another fourth component may be copolymerized within a range not exceeding 10 mol%.
Such fourth components include isophthalic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, trimethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, 1,
Examples include diol compounds such as 4-cyclohexanedimethanol. In short, 2,2-bis (4′-
It is necessary to copolymerize 4 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 10 mol% of β-hydroxyethoxyphenyl)propane. 2,2-bis(4′-β
If the amount of copolymerized (hydroxyethoxyphenyl) propane is less than 4 mol%, the desired large shrinkage performance cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 20 mol%, it is difficult to obtain sufficient thread quality.

(3) Polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with meta-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. As the fourth component, difunctional dicarboxylic acids such as adipic acid, sebacic acid, isophthalic acid, naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, trimethylene glycol,
Diol compounds such as diethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, and 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol; monofunctional compounds such as benzoylbenzoic acid, benzyloxybenzoic acid, and methoxypolyethylene glycol; and trifunctional compounds such as glycerin, trimellitic acid, and pentaerythritol. In some cases, it may be desirable to copolymerize a polyfunctional compound or more. Note that the fourth component may be a mixture of two or more of the above compounds. In short, it is desirable to copolymerize 4 mol% or more of the meta-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component, and the total copolymerization amount of the meta-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component and the fourth component is 5 mol% or more.
It is more desirable that the amount is mol % or more, particularly 7 to 15 mol %. If it is less than 4 mol%, the shrinkage rate will not increase, and if it is 20 mol% or more, properties other than the shrinkage rate will be significantly lowered.

The shrinkage rate of these fibers above in 100℃ hot water is
It is 10 to 50%, and if it is less than 10%, the shrinkage of the knitted fabric is insufficient, and if it is more than 50%, the texture is significantly hardened. It is preferably 15% to 30%. Conventionally, it was thought that the shrinking of polyester/wool blends was very difficult and required a long time, but it was previously known that the shrinking effect of such high-shrinkage polyester/animal hair blends was good. It wasn't. For shrinkage in hot water, the fibers with a load of 20 mg/d are immediately placed in hot water, and the shrinkage length is measured after 10 minutes.
It is calculated as a percentage of the yarn length.

In addition, the shrinkage stress influences the ease with which yarns and knitted fabrics shrink under restraint, so the higher the shrinkage stress, the more likely they are to shrink even under restraint. The highly shrinkable fiber of the present invention has a shrinkage stress of 0.15 g/
d or more, the knitted fabric made of the fiber mixture will sufficiently shrink even under restraint. In this case, if the shrinkage stress of the fibers measured in 100° C. hot water is less than 0.15 g/d, the knitted fabric under restraint will not shrink sufficiently.

Note that the shrinkage stress is calculated by attaching the other end to a strain gauge and fixing the other end of the fiber to maintain a constant length.
The sample was placed in a hot water bath at 100°C, the shrinkage stress generated was recorded on a recorder, and the maximum value (g/d) was determined. Fibers other than the above-mentioned copolymers are not preferred because, although high shrinkage can be obtained, the light fastness is markedly reduced and there are problems with the product. Furthermore, if the shrinkage of fibers other than the above-mentioned copolymers is increased, the shrinkage changes over time, resulting in the problem of poor dimensional stability.

As mentioned above, by using a high shrinkage polyester, sufficient shrinkage occurs in the fabric.
Therefore, in the cross section of the spun yarn constituting the fabric, the polyester is in the core and the animal hair is in the surface layer. As a result, the fabric has an almost two-layer structure, with wool protruding from the surface of the fabric and polyester mainly arranged in the center.

In the present invention, instead of making the polyester/animal hair mixture ratio of the warp yarn and the weft yarn the same, the animal hair ratio of the weft yarn is intentionally increased.
By doing so, it is possible not only to further improve the napping properties but also to improve the shrinkage properties at the same time. Moreover, the horizontal color streaks (steps) that appear in pre-dyed products (polyester; solid dyeing in several colors; animal hair; bigolo printing) are completely eliminated, and the quality of the product is greatly improved.

The animal hair of the present invention refers to wool, angora, cashmere camel, alpaca, biquyuna, guanago, mohair, etc., and of course, there is no problem in using a mixture of these.

The blending ratio of the high shrinkage polyester fiber and animal hair is
The design should be such that the proportion of animal hair in the weft yarn is higher than that in the warp yarn. For example, when making a fabric of 50% polyester/50% animal hair using both warp and weft, the warp thread: 80% polyester, 20% animal hair, the weft thread: 20% polyester,
As indicated by 80% animal hair.

Furthermore, as an extreme example, the warp yarn is 100% polyester and the weft yarn is 100% animal hair. As mentioned above, by increasing the ratio of animal hair in the weft yarn to the warp yarn, the shrinkage in the warp direction, which is essential for imparting good shrinkability, can be fully exerted due to the large amount of polyester present in the warp yarn. Moreover, not only the napping properties are significantly improved, but also the vertical and horizontal color streaks (steps) that appeared on the gray fabric in yarn-dyed products are eliminated by the animal hair covered on the fabric surface. It is something.

The blending ratio of the high shrinkage copolyester fibers and animal hair in the entire fabric is arbitrary, but from the viewpoint of texture, the blending ratio of animal hair should be 20% to 90%, preferably 30% to 80%, to meet the product characteristics. Good from the outside. If the animal hair content is less than 20%, the shrinking effect will be small and the product will not actually have a milled look.
If it exceeds 90%, the benefits of adding polyester, such as imparting pleatability and improving strength, cannot be obtained. Note that there is no problem in mixing a small amount of other fibers as long as the purpose of the present invention is not impaired.

For dyeing and finishing of the highly shrinkable copolyester fiber and animal hair blended fabric, hot water shrinkage treatment is required before shrinking. Hot water treatment temperature is 60℃ or higher
The temperature is 98°C or lower, preferably 80°C to 90°C. Since this hot water treatment causes shrinkage in the warp direction, it is desirable that the tension be as low as possible. Examples of the processing machine include a relaxer, a wince, and the like. After drying, an intermediate setting is performed, and the temperature of the intermediate setting is 170℃.
~190℃ is desirable. After that, the process of fulling begins.

In this way, if the fiber is subjected to the shrinking process without hot water treatment and intermediate setting, it is inappropriate because sharp wrinkles will occur and the product value will be impaired.

Therefore, after performing hot water treatment, intermediate setting, and shrinking, the fabric is dyed, and finished by raising, shearing, and steaming.

Dyeing depends on the type of high-shrinkage copolyester, and the dyes used may be a combination of disperse dyes/acid dyes, disperse dyes/metallic dyes/reactive dyes, or if the high-shrinkage copolyester fiber is dyeable with cationic dyes. Combinations of cationic dyes/acid dyes, cationic dyes/metallic dyes, and cationic dyes/reactive dyes are possible. Further, in this case, a disperse dye may be used instead of a cationic dye.

The dyeing temperature depends on the high shrinkage polyester fiber and is between 98°C and 130°C. Alternatively, carrier staining may be used. Advantages of the highly shrinkable copolyester/animal hair blend fabric include strong rise, prevention of knees coming loose during wear, and good pleat retention.

Next, the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to Examples.

Example 1 Modified polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 10 mol % of isophthalic acid was polymerized by a conventional method to form chips with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.50. After drying this chip under reduced pressure at 160°C, it was discharged from a 0.23 mmφ - 300 hole nozzle, spun at 1200 m/min, and converged to form a 450,000 denier tow. This tow is 130
High temperature dyeing (using disperse dye) at ℃, light gray,
It was dyed in three colors, medium gray and black, and then fed to a turbo stapler. The conditions for the secondary stretching and cutting at this time were a secondary stretching ratio of 1.39 times and a heater temperature of 90.
℃, and the cutting magnification was 3.31 times. The fibers were then fed to a modified Ken cutter to give an average fiber length of 89 mm.

The properties of the obtained fibers are as follows.

Strength: 4.5 g/d Elongation: 32% Sliver shrinkage rate in hot water at 100°C: 20.1% Shrinkage stress in hot water at 100°C: 0.31 g/d On the other hand, black and white Vigoro printing was performed on animal wool. A master sliver for warp and weft yarns was prepared by blending these four types of staples. Note that the color tone ratio of the sliver was as follows.

Breakdown: (A) Color ratio of polyester Light gray 30% Medium gray 40% Black 30% (B) Animal hair Bigolo printing 100% Using the same sliver, Warp thread: 80% polyester/Animal hair 20% Weft thread: Polyester A spun yarn with N _n =2/48 (N _n : metric count) of 20%/80% animal hair was obtained. This spun yarn is used to make polyester 50% fabric.
A 2/2 twill fabric with 50% animal hair was prepared, and the fabric was washed at 40°C and then relaxed at 90°C. The shrinkage rate of the gray fabric base is 14
%, latitude 17%. After drying, intermediate setting was carried out at 180°C, followed by shrinking treatment for 60 minutes. The shrinkage after shrinking was 18.6% in the longitudinal direction and 19.3% in the transverse direction. Subsequently, the hair was brushed, sheared, and finished by steaming.

In addition, the napping and shrinking properties are almost the same as wool, and compared to conventional non-shrinking polyester/animal hair products, the number of naps and shrinking time are significantly reduced, and the product also has no color streaks (steps) in the horizontal direction. The fabric has a deep color, and the surface of the fabric is felted with animal hair, making it a full-fledged flanno with no visible twill.

Comparative example 1 “Tetron” T-266 (Polyester staple manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc., 100°C hot water shrinkage rate 0%) 50
% and 50% wool, and a spun yarn of N _n 2/48 was dyed under the same conditions as in Example 1 for comparison. The shrinkage rate of the obtained product was 5% in the warp and 11% in the weft, the twill of the fabric was clear, and it did not become a flannel-like fabric.

Example 2 5 mol% of meta-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid
Modified polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing 10 mol% of isophthalic acid with isophthalic acid was polymerized using a conventional method to form chips with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.51. 150 chips
After drying under reduced pressure at °C, it was discharged from a nozzle with a diameter of 0.23 mm and 300 holes, spun at 1200 m/min, and converged to form a tow of 500,000 denier. After drawing this tow in a liquid bath at a drawing temperature of 76°C and a drawing ratio of 3.51,
It was mechanically crimped and dried with hot air at 75°C for 20 minutes. This tow was cut to an average length of 102 mm using a conventional method to obtain staple fibers having a single yarn fineness of 3 denier. The properties of the obtained fibers were as follows.

Strength: 3.1 g/d Elongation: 38% 100°C hot water shrinkage rate: 32% Shrinkage stress in 100°C hot water: 0.36 g/d On the other hand, the animal hair was a sliver consisting of 80% wool and 20% cashmere.

The blended state of warp yarn and weft yarn is as follows.

Warp yarn: 80% polyester/20% animal hair, weft yarn: 60% polyester/40% animal hair, and the fabric is 70% polyester/30% animal hair.
Obtained 2/2 twill fabric.

The fabric was washed at 40°C and then heated at 90°C.
Relaxation treatment was performed at ℃. The shrinkage rate of the gray material was 18% in warp and 22% in latitude. After drying,
Perform intermediate setting at 180°C, then set at room temperature.
The fibers were subjected to shrinking treatment for 60 minutes while being impregnated with 1 g of Marcel soap. Shrinkage after shrinking is 24% in warp and 28 in latitude.
It was %. Staining was carried out using an atmospheric pressure wince dyeing machine under the following conditions.

Kayaku Acrylic Light Blue 4GSL-ED (manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.: cationic dye) 2% owf Kayaku Acidtopia Blue PGA (manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.: acid dye) 0.4% owf Acetic acid Acid 2.0% owf Bath ratio 1/ 30 Temperature increase 90 minutes Pour temperature x time 98℃ x 30 minutes Continue using Sandets G-900, 0.5g/, 60
Soaping treatment was carried out at ℃×20 minutes.

Subsequently, the fabric was brushed and finished by shearing and steaming. The shrinkage rate of the obtained product was 19% in warp and 25% in latitude. The surface layer of the product is covered with animal hair, and there are no horizontal color streaks (steps), making it a genuine flannel with a good texture and no visible twill.

Comparative example 1 High shrinkage polyester 70%/animal hair both vertically and horizontally
30% of the fabric was finished under the same conditions as Example 2. The shrinkage rate of the obtained product was 18.7% in the vertical direction and 24.0% in the horizontal direction, which was almost satisfactory in terms of texture.However, when processing the product with the aim of matching the texture level to Example 2, the number of naps increased. It increased significantly. Due to this raising, the weft yarn was considerably damaged and its tear strength in the warp direction was significantly reduced.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. In a milled fabric mainly consisting of a mixture of short fibers consisting of highly shrinkable polyethylene terephthalate fibers and animal hair, the proportion of animal hair in the weft yarns constituting the fabric is higher than that in the warp yarns. A milled-like fabric that is characterized by a raised . 2 Short fibers made of highly shrinkable polyethylene terephthalate fibers contain isophthalic acid, meta-sodium sulfoisophthalate, 2,2-bis(4'-β-
Among hydroxyethoxyphenyl) propane,
The milled fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that it is a polyester short fiber copolymerized with at least one type in an amount of 4 to 20 mol% based on the total repeating unit. 3. The milled fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the animal hair is wool.