JPS6285021A - Polyester uneven yarn having high drape property - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:The titled uneven yarn containing titanium oxide in a high concentration, having improved handleability and functionality, wherein high-denier parts are dispersed in a specific state, periods between uneven parts satisfy a specific condition on a spectrograph. CONSTITUTION:Polyester uneven yarn containing >=1.0wt% titanium oxide, wherein value(P50) at 50cm period on a spectrograph is <=1/2 maximum(Pmax) so that the yarn has >=1.1g/de primary yield strength and <=33% breaking elongation. The yarn has thick and thin unevenness in the length direction, >=2.0, preferably >=3.0 ratio of thickness and thickness, wherein the uneven parts contain a small amount of long period and are well dispersed (chart feed rate is 8m/min and chart range is 25% at normal test in measuring condition of spectrograph).

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Technical Field The present invention relates to a polyester mottled yarn having high drapability.

<Prior Art> It has been known that when undrawn polyester yarn is drawn incompletely, mottled yarns are obtained. (Special Public Service 51-72
No. 07, JP-A-58-70711). Naturally, the more the rings are emphasized, the stronger the characteristics such as wind and combing will appear in the mottled yarn.However, if the mottling is emphasized, a low-oriented unstretched portion will remain, which will reduce the ease of handling and functionality. be. For this reason, the current state of products using this yarn is that products with good features are inevitably inferior in terms of functionality, and products with good functionality have fewer features. Of course, the above-mentioned Tokuko Sho 5
No. 1-7207 discloses the idea of improving the functionality of mottled filaments, but it is still far from satisfactory. Specifically, the publication discloses that the elongation is 35 to 70% and the denier mottled overall. In the case of yarns of this size, the -order yield strength is at most 1. Og/de, boiling water shrinkage of 15% or more, easy to handle.

The current situation is that it does not fully meet the recent needs for higher quality in terms of functionality.

Furthermore, without considering the above-mentioned problems of handling and functionality, we also provide excellent texture characteristics when fabricated into woven or knitted fabrics.
Although the spun-touch natural-like texture is completely different from that of conventional fully oriented drawn yarns, the overall feel of the woven or knitted fabric lacks a sense of drape. Improvements have been desired in terms of supplying polyester am with new hand characteristics that were not available before.

<Objective of the Invention> The object of the present invention is to overcome the above-mentioned drawbacks, to further improve mechanical properties and handleability, and to provide a new sensitivity not found in conventional fully oriented polyester drawn yarns and conventional polyester mottled yarns. An object of the present invention is to provide a polyester mottled yarn having the following characteristics.

<Structure of the Invention> In order to achieve the above object, the present inventors conducted various studies and surprisingly found that the speckles (thick denier portions) in polyester speckled yarn are in a special dispersed state. eWhen the spectrograph conditions regarding the period of porcelain and porphyry are satisfied, the primary yield strength of the porcelain filament,
It has been revealed that it is possible to provide a polyester mottled yarn that has a new sensitivity and texture that is 4+ compared to the conventional one, which has significantly improved elasticity, improved the conventional sliminess and bulkiness, and has high drapability. Ta.

In other words, the present invention contains 1.0 wt. It is a multifilament yarn containing fibers, and the value (P50) at a period of 50c!R of the spectrograph obtained in a normal test is 1/2 or less of the maximum value (PmaX). As a result, it is a high-density polynisdel filament characterized by having a primary yield strength of 1.1 g or more and a breaking elongation of 33% or less.

In the present invention, the old Spect [grano] refers to the Worcester spectrograph developed by Zwellbe of S. I. The measurement conditions are (a) normal test,
) Chart feed rate 8 m/Nn, (chart range 25%) This Worcester spectrograph allows rapid analysis of plaque content in parallel with the regular plaque test, and is particularly useful for determining the pitch of plaques. It is considered to be useful for understanding the
(Published by Japan Society of Mechanical Engineers), pages 255 to 372.

In order to make the explanation concrete, examples of a conventional speckled yarn and a speckled spectrograph of the present invention are shown in FIGS.
The figure shows a mottled thread chart obtained by retesting Example 1 of Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-7207. Figure 2 is a mottled thread chart obtained by retesting Example 1 of JP-A-58-70711. Figure 3 is a chart of speckled threads obtained in Example 1 of the present invention, which will be described later.

When comparing FIGS. 1 and 2 (conventional) and FIG. 3 (present invention), there is a remarkable difference that can be said to be characteristic in P50/Pff1ax defined by the present invention.

In the former case, P50/Pmax exceeds 1/2 (Fig. 1...0.81, Fig. 2...0.60
) The latter is clearly less than 1772 (Figure 3...0.
26), and it was found that this difference had an impact on the handleability and mechanical properties of the yarn. Although this theory has not yet been fully clarified, the first
In the case of ~2 figures (P50/Pmax > 1/2)
, '51 thick part) with good period are mixed, whereas in Fig. 3 (P 50/P may, ≦
1/2), this is probably due to the fact that the ring portions are more uniformly dispersed without particularly containing many long periods.

Incidentally, the stretching curves of the mottled yarns shown in Figs. 1 to 3 are shown in Figs. 4 to 6, respectively, and the following table summarizes the physical properties from these.

As is clear from the table above, the P50/Pma of 2 mottled threads
It is a new and unprecedented IJ finding that by lowering the value of Yes, and at the same time the value is 1/2 and the elongation is 33% or less, -
It was also found that the fabric had a strength of 1°1 g/de or more.

When drawing polyester undrawn (semi-)drawn yarn containing 1.0% by weight or more of titanium diluted, such polyester mottled yarn is dispersedly drawn, that is, the drawing points are not concentrated on the entire yarn (individual single fibers are not concentrated). This can be obtained by employing a stretching mode (in which the film is moved in a single direction). Specifically, (1) Do not apply concentrated stress to the yarn ■) Do not intensively heat the yarn (To) Reduce the S friction in the miscellaneous area (C)...1 Lower the Wfil with oil agent Do (C)...
・2 To open the fibers (to) improve the physical properties of single fibers To be more specific, titanium oxide is 160% by weight or more.
- It is necessary to draw the undrawn low-oriented polyester yarn containing - at a low magnification at which unevenness is sufficiently generated and while dispersing the unevenness to a greater degree than in the past. For example, the spinning speed should be at most 2000 m/'min, preferably 1500 m/1lin or less, and the degree of orientation should be 13X10' or less in terms of birefringence, preferably 10X10-3 or less, so that the fine-to-thickness ratio is 1-min. is obtained.

Further, it is preferable that O, P, and U added during spinning be 0.7% or less, and if possible, it is desirable that they affect the denier and cross-sectional shape of the single fibers. In this case, it is also effective to vary the cooling air effect during spinning. It is also useful to thoroughly squeeze it out before stretching. The straining tension must be at least 0.2 g/d of the supplied raw yarn, but if it is too strong, spots with poor dispersibility will be created in advance and will remain until the end, so this situation may occur. should be avoided, and for that purpose it is better to keep the tension below 1.0 qld. Furthermore, during stretching, it is necessary to avoid concentrated stress and concentrated heating as much as possible, and to avoid alignment of the stretching points. For example, during stretching, it is best not to bend or otherwise sharply bend the material, and intensive partial heating in a narrow area is also undesirable. It is preferable to heat the yarn as a whole over a long range in a furan-I condition as much as possible, and the temperature is preferably 155° C. or higher, which is the glass transition temperature of the raw yarn. The lower the temperature, the less the dispersion effect that neck points are scattered over a long range during stretching. Even if the yarn is preheated, the preheating temperature should not exceed this temperature by much -C. In other words, the stretching points are concentrated there. Although preheating of the raw yarn is effective in preventing stretch wrap and increasing drawability, it is not preferable in terms of flame generation, so preheating should not be too high, even if it is performed. As for the drawing ratio, it is necessary to maintain a sufficiently low drawing ratio by drawing at the natural drawing ratio of the raw yarn. By doing so, combined with the low orientation of the yarn mentioned above, thick uneven portions are formed. Even if we improve the functionality by improving the dispersibility, it is meaningless if this mottling effect does not last for 1 minute, and for that purpose, the thick fiber part with a thick to fine ratio (denier ratio) of 2.0 times or more, More desirably, it must include a thick mN portion of 3.0 times or more. When the mottled threads produced in this manner are further strongly entangled, the low-orientation portion and the high-orientation portion become entangled, further enhancing their complementary relationship. However, such an effect is usually not achieved by a level of entanglement that imparts binding properties to the yarn, and it is desirable to provide at least 40 or more entanglements, preferably 60 or more entanglements per m.

Furthermore, the polyester used here is a polyester whose main repeating unit is polyethylene terephthalate, and may be a modified polyester containing a third component, but it must be a polyester fiber containing t, owt% or more of titanium oxide. It is characterized by

<Operations and Effects of the Invention> FIG. 7(a) is a schematic diagram of undrawn polyester fiber, and when stretched at a magnification equal to or higher than its natural stretching ratio, (0
As shown in 1, it becomes a uniform thin drawn fiber, but if it is stretched at a low magnification lower than its natural drawing ratio (/9, the completely stretched part (field and the incompletely stretched part that has not been fully stretched) The result is an incompletely drawn yarn in which a mixture of strands and strands are mixed together.This incompletely oriented yarn is dyed darkly and has different physical properties, giving it a unique effect. This thing is ill T h
This is something that has been known for a long time as ick and thin thread. However, when stretched incompletely in this way, the incompletely stretched portion +b+ will still stretch if pulled, so the resulting yarn has the disadvantage of stretching in a sloppy manner. For example, Figure 8 (2) shows a conventional Tt+ick and Th1 film made by incomplete stretching at a low magnification.
This is an example of the stretching curve of n. As shown in the figure, the curve is long horizontally, and the degree of elongation is usually extremely large. Normally, the elongation of polyester filament yarn is about 25% at most, but when it is made into an incompletely drawn yarn by such low stretching ratio, its elongation is as high as 35% or more, which makes it difficult to use during use compared to ordinary yarn. It is unavoidable that it will be inferior in terms of handling and functionality, such as elongation and poor dimensional stability. Of course,
As the stretching ratio is increased, this degree of elongation decreases, but the characteristics of incomplete stretching are lost and the effect is lost. Therefore, a yarn having an incomplete stretching effect always has a fatal defect as a yarn with such high elongation. Furthermore, such incompletely drawn yarns have a low primary yield strength and a clear yielding phenomenon, exceeding the elastic recovery limit with a small force, making the yarns even more difficult to handle.

The present invention overcomes these disadvantages and realizes a mottled thread that has sufficient incompletely drawn characteristics without increasing the elongation, and does not contain more than a certain percentage of long-period mottling.
0/ When the incompletely stretched parts are extremely mixed so that the P wax is 1/2 or less, it is surprising (e)
It was discovered that incompletely drawn yarns with the elongation of fully drawn yarns can be produced. The reason for this is not well understood, but perhaps when the incompletely stretched parts +b) become extremely mixed together as shown in the model diagram in Figure 9 (f), the incompletely stretched parts (g)
Beside b), there is always a fully stretched part 〈ω...that is, it does not stretch.
... are adjacent to each other, so it seems that this is to prevent (ω being stretched and the city) from being stretched even if tension is applied. (Although I'm making this short, it may actually be better). By the way,
Conventionally, it has been proposed in the above-mentioned Japanese Patent Publication No. 7207/1983 to relatively disperse incompletely stretched portions in this way to give a marbling appearance and to prevent yarn breakage during heat treatment.

However, the elongation of the yarn is still very high in such speckled yarns, and this problem has not been solved at all. In the present invention, by greatly increasing the degree of dispersion and at the same time preventing the inclusion of long-period irregularities beyond a certain proportion, the elongation can be made comparable to that of a normally drawn yarn layer while having sufficient incompletely drawn areas. We have achieved a new thread structure that could not have been predicted using conventional wisdom. Of course, in this case, it is possible to reduce the degree of elongation by increasing the draw ratio or by further stretching the yarn, but this would be meaningless since the effect of incomplete drawing would also be lost. In the case of the present invention, while including an incompletely stretched portion with a thick-to-thin ratio of 2.0 times or more, more preferably 3.0 times or more,
A major feature is that the elongation can be made low in this way.

For example, polyester polymer at 1200TrL/m
When melt-spun at about 3.0 in, it becomes a completely drawn yarn with a normal elongation of about 30% at a draw ratio of about 3.0 times. In order to make this into an incompletely drawn yarn, the drawing ratio may be lowered. However, if the unevenness dispersion is at the conventional level, as the stretching ratio is lowered as shown in FIG. 10, the elongation will increase accordingly. In order to produce an effective incompletely drawn yarn, the stretching ratio must be at least lower than the natural stretching ratio of the raw yarn (2.5 times in this case), and the degree of elongation will be considerably large. Normally, the complete stretching ratio is about 0.8, that is, 3. Ox O,8=about 2.4 times is used, but if this is done, the elongation becomes high as shown in ■ compared to the fully drawn yarn in FIG. Generally, the elongation of yarn that is easy to handle is about 20 to 33%, so this is too much and difficult to handle. However, with the yarn of the present invention, even with such low magnification uneven stretching, the result is no different from that of a normal yarn, as shown by ◎. In addition, the primary yield strength at this time is as high as 1.1/d or more, and there is no clear yielding phenomenon, and the handling properties are significantly improved.

The same goes for the spinning speed; the lower the spinning speed, the lower the degree of molecular orientation of the undrawn yarn, and therefore, when it is unevenly stretched, the difference between the incompletely stretched portion and the fully stretched portion becomes larger. The effect is great, but on the other hand, the low orientation part is weak, making it difficult to handle. For this reason, efforts have been made to prevent this embrittlement by increasing the spinning speed to increase the degree of molecular orientation and highly oriented and unstretched (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 18718/1989, etc.). For example, if a mottled yarn is made from a raw yarn that has been spun at a normal spinning speed of 1200771/win, the IIN becomes extremely brittle when the fabric is reduced in alkali weight, and the measured wet abrasion fastness values are as shown in Figure 11 (■). You can only get 1st to 2nd grade, which is completely unusable.

Conventionally, this embrittlement was prevented by increasing the spinning speed of the raw yarn and increasing its orientation, as shown in (■), but on the other hand, increasing the spinning speed in this way relatively reduces the required draw ratio. Therefore, as shown in FIG. 10, there is a tradeoff in that the thick/fine ratio (denier ratio) of the single fibers in the unevenly drawn portion and the fully drawn portion becomes small, and the effect as a uneven yarn is lost. However, if the spots are highly dispersed and the long-period spots are kept below a certain percentage as in the present invention, it is difficult to predict from the conventional wisdom that even ordinary spun yarns can sufficiently withstand alkali embrittlement, as shown in Figure 11 (■). The results are amazing. Although the reason for this is not well understood, it is probably because the fully drawn fibers wrap around and protect the incompletely drawn portions, as explained in the section regarding elongation.

In addition, with conventional mottled yarn, the difference in shrinkage rate between the incompletely stretched part and the completely stretched part causes the fabric to hang, resulting in unevenness known as the so-called puff effect, but with the present invention, the mottledness is extremely dispersed. If a long cycle is not included, no puff will appear and the fabric will be in a bulky state.

In addition, as the name suggests, conventional mottled threads produce slab-like mottling on the fabric, and are not commonly used except when used as appearance effect fabrics. In this regard, in the present invention, although the yarn contains low-orientation parts, it does not have very clear spots, and only the texture effect due to the mixture of high-low orientation parts is noticeable.
A very general material can be obtained.

As described above, in the present invention, even when the polymer is not limited, it is possible to provide a polyester mottled thread that has significantly improved mechanical properties of absorbability, which have been a problem with conventional mottled threads. Furthermore, from the texture point of view, the thick and thin parts are significantly more dispersed compared to conventional mottled yarn, making it more spun-like and softer.
However, in order to further impart drapability, it is effective to use polyester containing a high concentration of titanium oxide, which is generally used as a matting agent. It is true. The reason why titanium oxide is effective for drapeability is not clear, but it is thought to be because its specific gravity is higher than that of polyester itself and because the unevenness generated on the fiber surface improves the smoothness between the fibers. The content of titanium oxide must be 1% or more; if it is less than this, desired drape properties cannot be obtained. It is known that polyester contains 1% or more of titanium oxide, but the present invention is based on the knowledge that drapability is improved by the synergistic effect of the darning technique combined with the mottled thread of the present invention. This is the first place to make a proposal.

As described above, according to the present invention, unlike conventional thick and thin threads,
Thick and thin IJliI! By greatly dispersing the parts and containing titanium oxide at a high concentration, it is possible to provide a polyester mottled yarn that has high drape properties uniformly in the yarn length direction as a whole, which is a novelty that has never existed before. We can provide polyester fibers with a unique texture.

The functions and effects of the present invention are summarized as shown in FIG. 14.

In the present invention, the primary yield strength is expressed by the strength at the inflection point on the loading curve, that is, the first point where the curve bends with the smallest radius of curvature (arrow in the figure), as shown in FIG. Then, the loading curve itself was determined using a universal tensile tester (manufactured by Instron).
α, tensile rate 100%/win, n = 10, and the elongation reading is determined at the breaking point (the point where the strength suddenly drops) as is usually done.

In addition, the natural drawing ratio is calculated by stretching the undrawn yarn.
It is expressed in the magnification of a point that suddenly rises from a flow state.

Also, regarding the method of expressing the thick/fine ratio of single fibers, normally drawn mottled yarns are not completely divided into two parts, the undrawn part and the fully drawn part, but the part in between is continuously changed to . Therefore, the average value of i1Z can be any value depending on how far into the unstretched part the ratio C is simply called. Accordingly, in the present invention, C
There is.

Example 1 A fiber-forming polymer containing 1.5 wt% titanium oxide and having polyethylene phthalate as the main repeating unit was spun at 1270yn/1n to give a birefringence of -8x10- 3. A 2200 e 36F undrawn yarn with a natural draw ratio of -2.6 and a glass transition temperature of 67°C was oiled with 0PU=0.4% and wound up. Next, this undrawn yarn is coated with 0. While applying the tension of JJ/de, rub it with a sharp edge and rub it, then preheat it with a hot roller at 50°C for one turn, and then apply it to a heating plate with a flat surface at 160°C at a steep angle. Stretch it at a stretching ratio of 2.5 degrees while carefully rubbing it with a straight line without applying any
It was rolled up as a 36F if spotted thread.

The spectrograph and stretching curve of the obtained speckled yarn are as shown in FIGS. 3 and 6, respectively (physical properties are Nc3 in Table 1), and in practical terms, there was no difference in handling from normal yarn. Next, this was used as a weave to weave with a twill structure, and a 20% alkali reduction was applied to make a gella fabric. The resulting fabric does not have any problems such as shedding at the knees or creep, and even with respect to embrittlement due to alkali reduction, it shows an amazing wet FJ rubbing fastness of grade 3 to 4, and has the same functionality as ordinary drawn yarn. Indicated. Moreover, its texture has a warm and crisp feel due to the fact that it contains many low-strength fibers that are more than 3 times the thickness of the thin and thick fibers, and has an extremely good texture with significantly better drapability than conventional ones. For the first time, 1Q has been produced that simultaneously satisfies two contradictory characteristics: it does not have the problems of handling and functionality, and it also has an extremely natural sensibility.

In this case, tighten the edge with a tension of 0.3g.
/de, the P50/pHlaX of the resulting thread
= 0.38, elongation = 29.0%, -order yield strength =
It became 1.39/de. Furthermore, when OPU is increased to 0.8%, P50/Pmax = 0.56, elongation -43,
0%, the -th retention point = 1.0 g/de, and the wet II rubbing fastness decreased to grade 2 due to embrittlement due to alkali reduction. Furthermore, when this ironing step was completely removed and the sheet was stretched while strongly sliding the plate at a steep angle in the stretching section, P50/pHlax = 0.80, elongation 5
7%, -order yield strength = 0.99/de, and the resulting fabric had many sink marks and hangings, and was a decorative fabric with a clear mottled pattern.

Examples 2 to 3 Comparative Example 1 Testing was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1, except that the titanium oxide content of the undrawn yarn was changed (tension was 0).
．． 59/de, opu O, 4%) fabric.

The physical properties and texture of the yarn in this case are as shown in the table below.
0/P max is 50% or less, -order yield strength i, 1g
When the elongation at break was 33% or less, and the titanium oxide content was 1.0 wt% or more, extremely good drape properties were obtained.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Figures 1 and 2 are spectrographs of conventional polyester mottled threads, Figure 3 are spectrographs of polyester mottled threads of the present invention, and Figures 4 and 5 are unloading curves of the mottled threads shown in Figures 1 and 2, respectively. Fig. 6 shows the unloading curve of the mottled yarn shown in Fig. 3, Fig. 7 is a model diagram of the occurrence of mottling due to incomplete stretching, and Fig. 8 shows the difference between the unloading curve of the conventional mottled yarn and the mottled yarn of the present invention. For example, FIG. 9 is a structural model diagram of the mottled yarn of the present invention, FIG. 10 is a diagram showing the relationship between drawing ratio and yarn elongation, and FIG. 11 is a diagram showing the relationship between spinning speed and embrittlement. FIG. 12 is a diagram showing the relationship between spinning speed and thick-to-thin ratio, FIG. 13 is a diagram explaining the primary yield point of the unloading curve, and FIG. 14 is a diagram showing the effect of the present invention.
It is a figure explaining an effect. In FIGS. 7 and 9, (J...completely stretched part +b+
...This is an incompletely stretched portion. Engraving of the drawings (no changes to the contents) Fig. 1 1 + Cm Fig. 2 Fig. 3 2345 10 20304050 +
00 cm Fig. 5 Fig. 6 o 1020304050 'l Fig. 7 (A) (B) (C) Fig. 8 Elongation Fig. 9 Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Viscosity "7m" Fig. 12. Fig. 13 Elongation Hiki
konu) Load extension mark, 1 wheat i (elongation r”Fl) (ru)
Low spin yield clump yarn C February, 2015 'i, 3j = 'ry Te Nagacho ≧'' Special Application No. 60-220154 2, Name of the Invention High Drapability Polyester Spotted Thread Representative Okamoto Sashibe (Iino Building) 1988 January 28th

Claims (3)

[Claims] (1) A multifilament yarn containing 1.0% by weight or more of titanium oxide, and containing single fibers that are thick and thin in the length direction and have a thick-to-thin ratio (denier ratio) of 2.0 or more. As for the yarn, the value (P50) at a period of 50 cm on the spectrograph obtained in the normal test is the maximum value (
Pmax), which results in 1.1g
A highly drapeable polyester mottled yarn characterized by having a primary yield strength of /de or more and a breaking elongation of 33% or less. (2) The highly drapeable polyester mottled yarn according to claim (1), which has a boiling water shrinkage rate of 12% or less. (3) The highly drapeable polyester mottled yarn according to claim (1), wherein the degree of entanglement between single fibers is 40 strands/m or more.