JPS6260489B2 - - Google Patents

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Publication number
JPS6260489B2
JPS6260489B2 JP59240356A JP24035684A JPS6260489B2 JP S6260489 B2 JPS6260489 B2 JP S6260489B2 JP 59240356 A JP59240356 A JP 59240356A JP 24035684 A JP24035684 A JP 24035684A JP S6260489 B2 JPS6260489 B2 JP S6260489B2
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
twist
yarn
pattern
knitting
knitted fabric
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
JP59240356A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPS61119756A (en
Inventor
Yukio Tanaka
Takehiko Shimizu
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toyobo Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Toyobo Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toyobo Co Ltd filed Critical Toyobo Co Ltd
Priority to JP24035684A priority Critical patent/JPS61119756A/en
Publication of JPS61119756A publication Critical patent/JPS61119756A/en
Publication of JPS6260489B2 publication Critical patent/JPS6260489B2/ja
Granted legal-status Critical Current

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Description

【発明の詳細な説明】[Detailed description of the invention]

(産業上の利用分野) この発明は、フアンデーシヨン等の下着用とし
て好適な弾性経編地に関するものである。 (従来の技術) スパンデツクス等の弾性糸が編入された弾性経
編地に柄を形成するための方法として、柄おさお
よび柄出し装置を備えた多おさ柄編機を使用して
編成する方法、3枚以上のおさを備えた無地編用
経編機の第1おさ(フロントおさ)に1本または
複数本の柄糸を地糸と交互に配して編成する方
法、および上記の無地編用経編機の2枚のバツク
おさに弾性糸を複数本交互に供給し、一方のおさ
で地組織を編成し、他方のおさで上記地組織とは
部分的に異なる組織を編成して編地に弾性糸張力
の異なる部分を点在させ、これにより凹凸模様を
形成する方法(特開昭57−128247号公報参照)な
どが知られている。 (発明が解決しようとする問題点) 多おさ柄編機を使用する方法は、同一の編糸を
用いて多種多様の柄が得られる反面、柄出装置や
多数の柄駒を必要とし、かつ生産性が低いという
問題があつた。また、無地編用経編機を用いて柄
糸と地糸を交編する方法は、柄がおさ柄編機を使
用して同一の編糸を編成して得られる柄に比べて
派手になり、高級感と優美さにかけ、得られる編
地がフアンデーシヨン等の下着用には不向きであ
つた。更に、弾性糸の弾力差で凹凸模様を形成す
る方法は、得られる模様が小さい凹凸の点在する
ものに限られていた。 (問題点を解決するための手段) この発明は、無地編用経編機を使用して編成可
能なストライプ柄を有する弾性経編地を提供する
ものであり、表組織、中間組織および裏組織から
なり、裏組織が弾性糸からなる無地組織の弾性経
編地において、上記の表組織がS方向の上撚りの
紡績糸のみからなるS撚り区域と、Z方向の上撚
りの紡績糸のみからなるZ撚り区域との交互配列
によつて形成される。 (作用) S撚り区域とZ撚り区域とが交互に存在し、か
つ弾性糸の作用で生地が収縮するので、S撚り区
域およびZ撚り区域の編糸の繊維傾斜方向および
トルクの相違に基づくストライプ柄が現出する。
紡績糸は単糸、双糸、三子糸のいずれでもよく、
紡績糸を用いることにより、フイラメント糸の単
糸および双糸を用いたものに比べて上撚りの方向
が明瞭になり、優美なストライプ柄が得られ、特
に紡績糸の双糸を用いると上撚りの方向が一層明
瞭となり、かつ強力が増大して編成が容易とな
る。なお、毛焼きを施したり、中間組織を合成繊
維フイラメント糸で編成したりしたときは、上記
のストライプ柄が一層鮮明となり、また上記紡績
双糸に綿糸を用いたときは肌触りが良好となる。 紡績双糸の場合、上撚りの方向は、下撚りと同
一方向または反対方向のいずれでもよく、特に2
種の紡績双糸のうちの少なくとも一方の紡績双糸
の上撚り方向を下撚り方向に一致させると、スト
ライプ柄のコントラストが一層向上する。下の表
は、上撚りと下撚りの組合せを種々に変え、その
際に現出するストライプ柄のコントラストを目視
により比較した結果である。ただし、/(スラツ
シユ)の左に上撚り方向、右に下撚り方向をそれ
ぞれ記し、コントラストの非常に優れているもの
を◎、やや優れているものを〇、やや劣るものを
△、非常に劣るものを×で示した。
(Field of Industrial Application) The present invention relates to an elastic warp knitted fabric suitable for underwear such as a foundation. (Prior art) As a method for forming a pattern on an elastic warp knitted fabric into which elastic yarns such as spandex are knitted, knitting is performed using a multi-sash pattern knitting machine equipped with a pattern receptacle and a pattern forming device. A method of knitting by disposing one or more pattern yarns alternately with the ground yarn in the first reed (front reed) of a plain knitting warp knitting machine equipped with three or more reeds, and A plurality of elastic yarns are alternately supplied to the two back receptacles of the above warp knitting machine for plain knitting, one reel knits the ground structure, and the other reel partially separates from the above ground structure. A method is known in which a knitted fabric is knitted with different textures and parts with different elastic yarn tensions are scattered, thereby forming an uneven pattern (see Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 128247/1983). (Problems to be Solved by the Invention) Although the method using a multi-shaped knitting machine allows a wide variety of patterns to be obtained using the same knitting yarn, it requires a pattern producing device and a large number of pattern pieces; There was also the problem of low productivity. In addition, the method of inter-knitting the pattern yarn and ground yarn using a warp knitting machine for plain knitting produces a pattern that is more flashy than the pattern obtained by knitting the same knitting yarn using a reed pattern knitting machine. However, the resulting knitted fabric was unsuitable for underwear such as foundations, although it lacked a sense of luxury and elegance. Furthermore, the method of forming an uneven pattern using the difference in elasticity of elastic threads has been limited to patterns that are dotted with small unevenness. (Means for Solving the Problems) The present invention provides an elastic warp knitted fabric having a striped pattern that can be knitted using a warp knitting machine for plain knitting, and has a front texture, an intermediate texture, and a back texture. In an elastic warp knitted fabric with a plain structure in which the back structure is made of elastic yarn, the surface structure is comprised of an S-twist area consisting of only ply-twisted spun yarn in the S direction, and an S-twist area consisting of only ply-twisted spun yarn in the Z direction. It is formed by an alternating arrangement of Z-twist zones. (Function) Since the S-twist area and the Z-twist area exist alternately, and the fabric contracts due to the action of the elastic yarn, stripes are formed based on the difference in the fiber inclination direction and torque of the knitting yarns in the S-twist area and the Z-twist area. A pattern appears.
The spun yarn may be single yarn, twin yarn, or triple yarn.
By using spun yarn, the direction of ply twist is clearer than when using single or double yarns of filament yarn, and an elegant striped pattern can be obtained. The direction becomes clearer, the strength increases, and knitting becomes easier. In addition, when burning is applied or the intermediate structure is knitted with synthetic fiber filament yarn, the above-mentioned striped pattern becomes even more vivid, and when cotton yarn is used as the above-mentioned spun double yarn, the feel becomes good. In the case of spun twin yarns, the direction of the first twist may be the same direction as the first twist or the opposite direction, especially the direction of the second twist.
When the top twist direction of at least one of the seed spun twin yarns is matched with the first twist direction, the contrast of the striped pattern is further improved. The table below shows the results of visually comparing the contrast of the striped patterns that appear when various combinations of top twist and first twist are used. However, the top twist direction and the bottom twist direction are written on the left and right of the / (slash), respectively. Those with very good contrast are ◎, those with slightly good contrast are 〇, those with slightly poor contrast are △, and very poor. Items are marked with an x.

【表】 上記紡績糸の好ましい太さは30〜80番手であ
り、特に双糸の場合は80/2〜120/2番手が好まし
く、太過ぎたときは得られた編地が厚くなり過ぎ
て実用的でなく、かつコストが高くなり、反対に
細過ぎると強力が低下して編成が困難になる。ま
た上記紡績糸の上撚りの撚係数は3〜5が好まし
く、3未満ではストライプ柄が不明瞭となり反対
に5を超えると生地が硬くなる。そして、S撚り
区域およびZ撚り区域における紡績糸の好ましい
配列本数は、2〜6本であり、この本数が1本で
はストライプ柄の現出が困難であり、反対に7本
以上ではストライプ柄がぼける結果になる。 第2おさにより中間組織を編成する編糸は、合
成繊維のマルチフイラメント糸が好ましく、その
好ましい太さは30〜70dであり、太さが30d未満
では生地が薄くなり過ぎ、破断強力、引裂強力が
低くて実用的でなく、反対に70dを超えると厚く
なり過ぎる。 第3おさにより裏組織を編成する弾性糸は、
140〜420dのスパンデツクス裸糸が好ましく、特
に210〜280dのものが好ましい。スパンデツクス
裸糸の太さが140d未満では弾力が弱くてフアン
デーシヨンに不向きであると共に、ストライプ柄
が不明瞭となり、反対に420dを超えると、締付
け力が強くなり過ぎる。 なお、2種の紡績糸は、撚り方向のみが互いに
異なるものであればよいが、番手、撚り数、毛焼
きの有無、シルケツト加工の程度などの相違を組
合せてもよい。なおまた、編組織は、任意である
が、トリコネツト、サテンネツト、ハーフネツト
等が好ましい。更に特開昭57−128247号公報に開
示されているように、2枚のバツクおさを用いる
ことにより、第1裏組織と第2現組織を交互に配
列して前記の裏組織を形成し、これらの第1裏組
織および第2裏組織に弾性糸の振り幅の等しい部
分と異なる部分を形成し、張力差を利用して凹凸
模様を点状に生じさせてもよい。 実施例 1 4枚おさ、28ゲージの無地編用経編機を使用
し、第1おさ(フロントおさ)に、第1図に示す
ように、上撚りがS方向の紡績双糸1として毛焼
きしない100/2番手の綿糸(下撚りZ30回/2.54
cm、撚係数3.0、上撚りS35回/2.54cm、撚係数
4.9)と、上撚りがZ方向の紡績双糸2として毛
焼きした100/2番手の綿糸(下撚りZ30回/2.54
cm、撚係数3.0、上撚りZ30回/2.54cm、撚係数
4.2)とを3本ずつ交互に供給し、1リピート24/
22/22/20/22/22の組織に編成した。また
中間組織
の編糸3としてナイロンマルチフイラメント糸40
デニール10フイラメントを第2おさにフルセツト
に供給して1リピート20/02/20/24/42/24の組織
に編成し、裏組織の弾性糸4としてスパンデツク
スの裸糸210デニールを第3おさにフルセツトに
供給して1リピート00/22/00/44/22/44の組織を
編成した。得られた編地はトリコネツトと呼ばれ
るが、この編地を密度54コース/インチ、37ウエ
ール/インチ、目付190g/m2に加工仕上したとこ
ろ、第2図に示すように、表面に幅2mmのS撚り
区域AとZ撚り区域Bが交互に並ぶ明瞭かつ優美
なストライプ柄が現出した。この柄は、綿糸の撚
方向差による外観差、トルクによるねじれ方向
差、毛焼きの有無による光沢差、毛羽の有無など
が合計されて鮮明なストライプ柄となつたもので
あり、上撚りがZ方向の紡績双糸2は、毛焼糸で
あり、毛羽を有しないので、透光性もあつて優美
な外観を呈し、春・夏のフアンデーシヨン生地と
して最適なものであつた。 実施例 2 実施例1と同一の編機と編糸を使用し、第3図
に示すように、第1おさおよび第2おさにはそれ
ぞれ実施例1と同様にS撚りの紡績双糸1、Z撚
りの紡績双糸2および中間組織用編糸3を供給し
て同様に編成し、第3おさには第1弾性糸4aと
して実施例1と同じスパンデツクス210デニール
を4本抜き2本挿入の順で供給し、1リピートが
00/22/00/44/22/44/00/00/00/44/44/44の第1裏
組織を編成し、第4おさには第2弾性糸4bとし
て上記と同じスパンデツクスを4本挿入2本抜き
の順で供給し、1リピートが00/22/00/44/22/44/
00/22/00/44/22/44の第2裏組織を編
成した。す
なわち、第8コースMおよび第11コースNで両者
の振り幅を変え、第1弾性糸4aを直線状に挿入
し、第2弾性糸4bを屈曲状に挿入し、他は全て
同一組織に編成する。 この編地を密度54コース/インチ、37ウエー
ル/インチに加工仕上したところ、第4図に示す
ように、S撚り区域AおよびZ撚り区域Bが交互
に並んで明瞭かつ優美なストライプ柄を現出する
と共に、Z撚り区域B上に10mm間隔で長さ4mm、
幅2mmの凸部柄Cが得られた。この編地は、実施
例1の編地と同様に、春・夏用のフアンデーシヨ
ン生地として好適であつた。 (発明の効果) 上撚りの方向を異にする紡績糸を使用すること
により、優美で鮮明なストライプ柄を発現し、フ
アンデーシヨンなどの下着用として好適な弾性経
編地が得られる。無地編用経編機によつて編成す
ることができ、多おさ柄編機を必要としないの
で、生産性が高く、しかも多おさ柄編機を使用し
て一種類の編糸で編成したときと同程度に優美な
ストライプ柄が得られる。
[Table] The preferred thickness of the above-mentioned spun yarn is 30 to 80, especially for double yarns, 80/2 to 120/2, and if it is too thick, the resulting knitted fabric will be too thick. It is impractical and expensive, and on the other hand, if it is too thin, it will be less strong and difficult to knit. The twist coefficient of the ply-twisted spun yarn is preferably 3 to 5; if it is less than 3, the striped pattern will be unclear, and if it exceeds 5, the fabric will be hard. The preferred number of spun yarns in the S-twist area and the Z-twist area is 2 to 6. If the number is 1, it is difficult to create a striped pattern, whereas if the number is 1, it is difficult to create a striped pattern. The result will be blurry. The knitting yarn for knitting the intermediate structure by the second reed is preferably a multifilament yarn of synthetic fibers, and its preferred thickness is 30 to 70 d. If the thickness is less than 30 d, the fabric will be too thin and will have poor breaking strength and tear. The strength is too low to be practical, and on the other hand, if it exceeds 70d, it becomes too thick. The elastic thread that knits the back tissue by the third reed is
Bare spandex yarns of 140 to 420 d are preferred, and those of 210 to 280 d are particularly preferred. If the thickness of the spandex bare yarn is less than 140 d, the elasticity will be weak and it will not be suitable for foundation, and the striped pattern will become unclear.On the other hand, if it exceeds 420 d, the tightening force will be too strong. Note that the two types of spun yarns may differ from each other only in the direction of twist, but they may be combined with differences in count, number of twists, presence or absence of burning, degree of mercerization, etc. Furthermore, although the knitting structure is arbitrary, tricone net, satin net, half net, etc. are preferable. Furthermore, as disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 57-128247, by using two back reeds, the above-mentioned backing structure is formed by arranging the first backing structure and the second current structure alternately. Alternatively, the first backing structure and the second backing structure may be formed with a portion where the swing width of the elastic yarn is equal and a portion where the swing width is different, and a dotted uneven pattern may be created using the difference in tension. Example 1 Using a warp knitting machine with 4 reeds and a 28 gauge plain knitting machine, the first reed (front reed) was spun double yarn 1 with the ply twist in the S direction, as shown in Figure 1. 100/2 cotton yarn that does not burn as a yarn (first twist Z30 times/2.54
cm, twist coefficient 3.0, ply twist S35 times/2.54cm, twist coefficient
4.9) and 100/2 count cotton yarn, which is yarn 2 with the first twist in the Z direction and is 100/2 yarn (first twist Z30 times/2.54
cm, twist coefficient 3.0, first twist Z30 times/2.54cm, twist coefficient
4.2) and 3 wires alternately, 1 repeat 24/
It was organized as 22/22/20/22/22. In addition, nylon multifilament yarn 40 is used as knitting yarn 3 of the intermediate structure.
A full set of 10 denier filaments is fed to the second thread to knit it into a 1 repeat 20/02/20/24/42/24 weave, and a 210 denier spandex bare thread is used as the elastic thread 4 of the back weave to the third thread. I then supplied the full set and organized a 1 repeat 00/22/00/44/22/44 organization. The resulting knitted fabric is called Triconnet, and when this knitted fabric was processed and finished to a density of 54 courses/inch, 37 wales/inch, and a weight of 190 g/ m2 , a 2 mm wide layer was formed on the surface as shown in Figure 2. A clear and elegant striped pattern in which S-twist areas A and Z-twist areas B are arranged alternately appeared. This pattern is a clear striped pattern that is the result of a total of differences in appearance due to the twist direction of the cotton yarn, differences in twist direction due to torque, differences in gloss due to the presence or absence of tanning, presence or absence of fluff, etc. The directionally spun twin yarn 2 is a sintered yarn and has no fuzz, so it has good translucency and an elegant appearance, making it ideal as a foundation fabric for spring and summer. Example 2 Using the same knitting machine and knitting yarn as in Example 1, as shown in FIG. 1. Supply the Z-twist spun double yarn 2 and the knitting yarn 3 for the intermediate structure and knit in the same way, and in the third strand, as the first elastic yarn 4a, four pieces of spandex 210 denier, which are the same as in Example 1, are cut out. Supply in order of main insertion, 1 repeat is
Knit the first back weave of 00/22/00/44/22/44/00/00/00/44/44/44, and knit 4 of the same spandex as above as the second elastic yarn 4b on the 4th strand. Supplied in the order of main insertion and 2 removal, 1 repeat is 00/22/00/44/22/44/
00/22/00/44/22/44 second back organization was organized. In other words, the width of the 8th course M and the 11th course N are changed, the first elastic yarn 4a is inserted in a straight line, the second elastic yarn 4b is inserted in a curved manner, and all others are knitted in the same structure. do. When this knitted fabric was processed and finished to a density of 54 courses/inch and 37 wales/inch, as shown in Figure 4, S-twist areas A and Z-twist areas B were arranged alternately to create a clear and elegant striped pattern. At the same time, 4mm long, 10mm apart on Z twist area B,
A convex pattern C with a width of 2 mm was obtained. This knitted fabric, like the knitted fabric of Example 1, was suitable as a foundation fabric for spring and summer. (Effects of the Invention) By using spun yarns with different ply twist directions, an elastic warp knitted fabric can be obtained that exhibits an elegant and clear striped pattern and is suitable for underwear such as foundations. It can be knitted using a warp knitting machine for plain knitting and does not require a multi-shape pattern knitting machine, resulting in high productivity.Moreover, it is knitted using a single type of knitting yarn using a multi-shape pattern knitting machine. You can get a striped pattern that is just as elegant as when you do it.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief explanation of the drawing]

第1図はこの発明の実施例1の組織図、第2図
は実施例1の外観モデル図、第3図は実施例2の
組織図、第4図は実施例2の外観モデル図であ
る。 1:S方向の上撚りの紡績双糸、2:Z方向の
上撚りの紡績双糸、3:中間組織の編糸、4,4
a,4b:弾性糸、A:S撚り区域、B:Z撚り
区域、C:凸部柄。
Fig. 1 is an organizational chart of Embodiment 1 of the present invention, Fig. 2 is an external model diagram of Embodiment 1, Fig. 3 is an organizational chart of Embodiment 2, and Fig. 4 is an external model diagram of Embodiment 2. . 1: Spun twin yarn with ply twist in S direction, 2: Spun double yarn with ply twist in Z direction, 3: Knitting yarn with intermediate structure, 4, 4
a, 4b: elastic yarn, A: S twist area, B: Z twist area, C: convex pattern.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】 1 表組織、中間組織および裏組織からなり、裏
組織が弾性糸からなる無地組織の弾性経編地にお
いて、上記の表組織がS方向の上撚りの紡績糸の
みからなるS撚り区域と、Z方向の上撚りの紡績
糸のみからなるZ撚り区域との交互配列によつて
形成されていることを特徴とする弾性経編地。 2 S撚り区域およびZ撚り区域における紡績糸
の配列本数が2〜6本である特許請求の範囲第1
項記載の弾性経編地。 3 裏組織が第1裏組織および第2裏組織の交互
配列によつて形成され、上記の第1裏組織および
第2裏組織が互いに等しい振り幅の部分と振り幅
を異にする部分とを備えている特許請求の範囲第
1項または第2項のいずれかに記載の弾性経編
地。
[Scope of Claims] 1. A plain elastic warp knitted fabric consisting of a front weave, an intermediate weave, and a back weave, where the back weave is made of elastic yarn, in which the front weave consists only of spun yarns twisted in the S direction. An elastic warp knitted fabric characterized by being formed by an alternating arrangement of S-twist areas and Z-twist areas consisting only of spun yarns twisted in the Z direction. 2. Claim 1, in which the number of spun yarns arranged in the S-twist area and the Z-twist area is 2 to 6.
Elastic warp knitted fabric as described in section. 3. The backing structure is formed by an alternating arrangement of the first backing structure and the second backing structure, and the first backing structure and the second backing structure have a part with equal swing width and a part with different swing width. An elastic warp knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2.
JP24035684A 1984-11-14 1984-11-14 Elastic warp knitted cloth Granted JPS61119756A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP24035684A JPS61119756A (en) 1984-11-14 1984-11-14 Elastic warp knitted cloth

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP24035684A JPS61119756A (en) 1984-11-14 1984-11-14 Elastic warp knitted cloth

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPS61119756A JPS61119756A (en) 1986-06-06
JPS6260489B2 true JPS6260489B2 (en) 1987-12-16

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JP24035684A Granted JPS61119756A (en) 1984-11-14 1984-11-14 Elastic warp knitted cloth

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Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19709706C2 (en) * 1997-03-10 2000-01-13 Boehme Chem Fab Kg Process for the production of textile elastic fabrics
JP4740573B2 (en) * 2004-09-30 2011-08-03 糀屋紡織株式会社 fabric
JP6563636B2 (en) * 2014-11-04 2019-08-21 スリーエム イノベイティブ プロパティズ カンパニー Female hook-and-loop fastener, hook-and-loop fastener, and absorbent article

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS57128247A (en) * 1981-01-26 1982-08-09 Toyo Boseki Knitting of patterned elastic warp knitted fabric

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS57128247A (en) * 1981-01-26 1982-08-09 Toyo Boseki Knitting of patterned elastic warp knitted fabric

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPS61119756A (en) 1986-06-06

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