JPS6257727B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a polyester composite yarn having a silky texture and suitable as a yarn for textiles. Conventionally, methods for obtaining silky synthetic fibers include making the cross-sectional shape of the fibers multi-lobal, or fabricating different shrinkage mixed fiber yarns made of multifilaments with different heat shrinkage rates, and then subjecting them to a relaxing heat treatment in the post-process. etc. have been widely proposed. In particular, the latter method is attracting a lot of attention because it causes the low shrinkage component to stand out on the surface of the fabric during relaxing heat treatment, resulting in a silkier surface touch. The present inventors focused on such differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarns, and as a result of intensive study on raw yarn materials that exhibit the unique texture of silk, especially the delicate pattern called "fracture" on the surface of the fabric, the present invention was developed. has been reached. That is, the present invention has a low-shrinkage multifilament component with a single fiber fineness of 0.7 denier or less and an entanglement degree of 30 strands/m or more, and a single fiber fineness of 2.5 denier or less and a heat shrinkage rate that is at least 5% higher than the low-shrinkage component. Consists of a high shrinkage multifilament component,
The polyester differential shrinkage composite yarn is characterized in that there is no substantial entanglement between the low shrinkage component and the high shrinkage component. In the polyester heteroshrinkage composite yarn of the present invention, the fineness of the single fibers constituting the low-shrinkage component must be 0.7 denier or less. As mentioned above, when a fabric made of differentially shrinkable composite yarn is subjected to relaxation heat treatment, the low-shrinkage component stands out in a loop shape on the surface of the fabric. The fineness of the single filament of the shrinkage component plays a very important role. In the case of the present invention, if the single fiber fineness of the low shrinkage component becomes thicker than 0.7 denier, it becomes difficult to obtain a desirable surface touch, which is not preferable as a silky fabric. On the other hand, the single yarn fineness of the high shrinkage component that makes up the composite yarn does not affect the surface touch as significantly as the low shrinkage component, but it is related to the drapeability of the fabric as a whole.
It is preferably 1.5 denier or less. In the present invention, the difference in heat shrinkage rate between the two components constituting the composite yarn is also important in obtaining a silky texture.
The difference in heat shrinkage rate between low shrinkage components and high shrinkage components is 5%.
Above, it is necessary that it is preferably 8% or more. If the difference in thermal shrinkage rate between the two components is less than 5%, it is not preferable because even if the fabric is subjected to a relaxing heat treatment, the low-shrinkage component will be difficult to float on the surface of the fabric, making it impossible to obtain a warm surface touch. In the present invention, it is necessary that the low shrinkage component has entanglement of 30 entanglements/m or more in the longitudinal direction of the multifilament. The reason for this is that the single yarn fineness of the low shrinkage component is less than 0.7 denier, which is much thinner than conventional yarns, so if there is no entanglement, the single yarn is easy to break during the additional twisting and weaving processes, resulting in high-quality, fluff-free yarns. This is because it becomes difficult to supply silky fabric. In our study, the single yarn fineness was 0.7.
In order to stably post-process a differential shrinkage composite yarn containing ultra-fine multifilaments of denier or less as one component, it is necessary that at least the ultra-fine multifilament component has entanglements of 30 entanglements/m or more in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. It turned out that it was necessary.
On the other hand, it is not necessarily necessary to add entanglement to the high shrinkage component, but when using a multifilament with a single filament fineness of 1.0 denier or less as the high shrinkage component, the same reason as for the low shrinkage component is that the It is preferable that entanglement of 1/m or more is provided. However, in the present invention, it is not preferable that there be substantial entanglement between the low shrinkage component and the high shrinkage component. This requirement is an extremely important part of the present invention, and is something that the inventors have taken great care to meet. In other words, when silky fabrics are made using differentially shrinkable composite yarns, it has been discovered that the mutual aggregation of both components is a factor that strongly influences the unique texture and surface touch of real silk. In other words, if there is substantial entanglement between the two components, the loop formation of the low shrinkage component on the fabric surface will become too uniform no matter how the single yarn fineness and heat shrinkage rate of both components are combined.
The texture and luster unique to real silk, which will be described later, are not developed, and in extreme cases, the texture becomes paper-like. Only when there is no substantial entanglement between the two components, as in the present invention, it is possible to create a fabric with a subtle sheen and pattern called "flash", which is unique to real silk. Note that the term "entanglement" as used herein means entanglement obtained by a so-called interlacing process or the like, and does not include twisting in the drawing process or twisting in the additional twisting process. As mentioned above, in the present invention, the low shrinkage component has entanglements of 30 entanglements/m or more in its longitudinal direction,
The method for imparting entanglement can be easily carried out by conventionally known interlace processing. A specific method for obtaining the differential shrinkage composite yarn according to the present invention is to interlace only the low-shrinkage components during spinning as shown in the examples described later, then combine the yarns, take them into one package, and draw them. However, it is preferable to use other methods, such as taking the yarn as a separate package without interlacing during spinning, and interlacing the low-shrinkage component before doubling during drawing. You can also do it. In this case, the interlacing treatment is preferably carried out prior to the drawing area (for example, at the time of unwinding from the creel stand) in order to prevent single filament breakage during drawing. Further, the degree of entanglement, which is a measure of entanglement, can be measured by the hook drop method described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 10689/1989. The polyester referred to in the present invention is a polyester whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate, and even if small amounts of copolymer components or additives are contained for additional purposes, such as improving dyeability or gloss, There is no problem. Further, the cross-sectional shape of the yarn may be circular or irregular. In the present invention, the level and composition of the heat shrinkage rate of the low shrinkage component and the high shrinkage component are not particularly limited, but the heat shrinkage rate of the low shrinkage component is usually 4 to 4.
10%, and the heat shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage component is in the range of about 10 to 20%, and as described above, the heat shrinkage rate difference is selected to be 5% or more, preferably 8% or more. Furthermore, it is empirically preferred that the composition ratio of the low shrinkage component to the high shrinkage component is 3/7 to 7/3 by weight. The heat shrinkage rate as used in the present invention means the shrinkage rate when heat treated in boiling water, and is measured using the measuring method described in JIS-L1073. Embodiments of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings. Example (i) Production of composite yarn Polyethylene terephthalate (Tio ₂ content 0.02%) with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.67 measured at 20°C using an equal weight mixed solvent of phenol and tetrachloroethane.
Using the spinning device shown in Figure 1, the spinning temperature was 290°C.
C. and a spinning speed of 3500 m/min to obtain a composite yarn. In Figure 1, 1 indicates a spinneret with a low shrinkage component (pore diameter 0.15 mm, number of holes 72), and 1'
is a spinneret for high shrinkage components (pore diameter 0.20 mm, number of holes 36
hole). 2 and 2' indicate cooling devices, but only the low shrinkage components are pre-oiled by the pre-oiling device 3 at a position 800 mm below the spinneret, and interlaced by the interlacing device 4 (air pressure 4.5 Kg/cm ³ ). The low shrinkage component passes through the chimneys 5 and 5', is oiled by the oiling devices 6 and 6', passes through the guides 7 and 7' and passes through the godet roller 8, where both yarns are doubled. Then, it was rolled up into the same package cage 10 by a winder 9. The discharge amount is due to the low shrinkage component.
21.0 g/min, the high shrinkage component is 25.2 g/min, and the total fineness/filament count of the spun yarn is 119 denier/108 filaments. In this case, each component was taken into a separate package and the heat shrinkage rate measured was 6.1% for the low shrinkage component and 62.0% for the high shrinkage component. In addition, the degree of entanglement of low shrinkage components is approximately 80 pieces/m
It was hot. The composite yarn obtained by the above method was drawn at a speed of 600 m/min under the conditions of a drawing temperature of 90°C, a heat treatment temperature of 120°C, and a drawing ratio of 1.50. The heat shrinkage rate of each component after stretching was 5.7% for the low shrinkage component and 16.2% for the high shrinkage component. The degree of entanglement of the low shrinkage component was 40 strands/m. The composite yarn thus obtained is designated as Sample-A. Table 1 shows the yarn properties of each component constituting Sample-A after spinning and after stretching.

[Table] Samples B to J were obtained by appropriately changing the spinning conditions, interlacing conditions, and stretching conditions. (See Table 2) (ii) Production of woven fabrics The various composite yarns obtained in (i) were test-woven into habutae woven fabrics, and boiled to reveal differences in shrinkage rates. The weavability and product texture are shown in Table 2 together with the yarn properties after stretching of each component constituting Samples A to J. The weavability and texture were evaluated in the following manner. Weaving properties...〇...loom stoppage rate 5% or less △... 〃 5-10% ×... 〃 10% or more Texture... Visually inspect and handle the product to determine its gloss, presence or absence of flashing effect, strength and weakness, and surface touch. Comparisons were made with real silk for two items. 〇...All of the above judgment items are extremely similar to real silk △...One of the above judgment items is inferior to real silk ×...Two or more of the above judgment items are inferior to real silk Overall evaluation...The above Judgments were made based on the results of weavability and texture based on the following criteria. 〇…When both weavability and texture are ○ △…When either weavability or texture is ○ and the other is △ ×…When either weavability or texture is ×,
and if both are △

[Table] In Table 2, sample B was obtained by interlacing the spun yarn corresponding to sample A (however, neither component was interlaced at the spinning stage), but the texture was slightly lower. It was paper-like, lacked warmth, and no "flash effect" was observed. On the other hand, Sample H was obtained by interlacing the high shrinkage components as well as the low shrinkage components during spinning, and like Sample A, it had good weavability and had a high texture and gloss that were very similar to real silk. A quality fabric was obtained.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a spinning device which is one step for manufacturing a polyester heteroshrink composite yarn according to the present invention. 1, 1'... Spinneret, 2, 2'... Cooling device, 3...
Pre-oiling device, 4...interlacing device,
5, 5'...chimney, 6,6'...oiling device,
7, 7'...Guide, 8, 8'...Godet roller,
9...winder, 10...package.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 Single yarn fineness is 0.7 denier or less, entanglement degree is 30
A low-shrinkage multifilament component having a fiber diameter of 2.5 denier or less and a high-shrinkage multifilament component having a heat shrinkage rate at least 5% higher than the low-shrinkage component, the low-shrinkage multifilament component and the high-shrinkage component. A polyester differentially shrinkable composite yarn characterized in that there is no substantial entanglement between the yarn and the yarn.