JPS62257484A - Dyeing of crepe pattern - Google Patents

Dyeing of crepe pattern

Info

Publication number
JPS62257484A
JPS62257484A JP61099786A JP9978686A JPS62257484A JP S62257484 A JPS62257484 A JP S62257484A JP 61099786 A JP61099786 A JP 61099786A JP 9978686 A JP9978686 A JP 9978686A JP S62257484 A JPS62257484 A JP S62257484A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
dye
fabric
pattern
color
dark
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
JP61099786A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPH0123594B2 (en
Inventor
内藤 潤基
入沢 末広
国武 勝彦
良一 佐藤
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Kurabo Industries Ltd
Kurashiki Spinning Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Kurabo Industries Ltd
Kurashiki Spinning Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Kurabo Industries Ltd, Kurashiki Spinning Co Ltd filed Critical Kurabo Industries Ltd
Priority to JP61099786A priority Critical patent/JPS62257484A/en
Publication of JPS62257484A publication Critical patent/JPS62257484A/en
Publication of JPH0123594B2 publication Critical patent/JPH0123594B2/ja
Granted legal-status Critical Current

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Abstract

(57)【要約】本公報は電子出願前の出願データであるた
め要約のデータは記録されません。
(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】 〔産業上の利用分野〕 本発明は織物、編物、不織布等の布地(以下、本発明に
おいて単に布地と言う。)に揉皺模様を描出する方法、
より詳しくはボカシ調の揉皺模様を描出する方法に関す
るものである。
[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention provides a method for creating a crumpled pattern on fabrics such as woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, and non-woven fabrics (hereinafter simply referred to as fabrics in the present invention);
More specifically, the present invention relates to a method for depicting a blurred wrinkle pattern.

〔従来の技術〕[Conventional technology]

通常揉皺模様はシボリ染、ロウケラ染或はプリント捺染
によって描出し得、その際揉皺模様をボカシ調にするに
は染料多眼着剤を使用しく実公昭54−37904号)
或は染料にブリードを起こさせ(特公昭55−8636
号)又はプリント捺染にあっては彫刻ロールの刻印周縁
の深さをなだらかに変化させ(特公昭57−23039
号)或は捺染スクリーンの型際をずらしながら数回に亘
り印捺する(特公昭58−28395号)等の方法が採
られる。
Usually, the crumpled pattern can be drawn by Shibori dyeing, Roukera dyeing, or print printing, and in this case, to make the crumpled pattern blurred, a multi-layer dye adhesive is used (Utility Model Publication No. 54-37904)
Or cause the dye to bleed (Special Publication No. 55-8636)
No.) or in print printing, the depth of the engraved periphery of the engraving roll is changed gently (Special Publication No. 57-23039)
(No. 58-28395), or printing is performed several times while shifting the edges of the printing screen (Japanese Patent Publication No. 58-28395).

〔発明が解決しようとする問題点〕[Problem that the invention seeks to solve]

シボリ染やロウケラ染にあって染液の付与する部分以外
の部分は強固に防染処理されており、ブリードによって
防染部分の内部奥深く染料を浸透させることは不可能で
あり、特に染液が直接付与されず揉皺線によって濃く縁
取られる淡色(非染色)部分の面積が大きい場合には到
底その淡色郡全体の色彩がなだらかに変化するボカシ調
揉皺模様を描出することは出来ない。
In Shibori dyeing and Roukera dyeing, the areas other than the areas to which the dye liquid is applied are strongly resist-dyed, and it is impossible for the dye to penetrate deep into the resist-dyed areas due to bleeding, especially when the dye liquid is applied. If the area of the light-colored (undyed) part that is not directly applied and is darkly bordered by wrinkle lines is large, it is impossible to create a blurred wrinkle pattern in which the color of the entire light-colored area changes gently.

この点で特公昭57−23039号や特公昭58−28
395号に係るプリント捺染法では、図柄の大きなボカ
シm揉皺模様も可能であるが、そのためにはbfi度の
変化の度合に応じた数多くの彫刻ロールを州立し或は数
回に亘すスキージングしなければならないので工程が複
雑で非能率的で製造コストが高くつき経済的にみて実施
不可能である。
In this regard, Special Publication No. 57-23039 and Special Publication No. 58-28
With the print printing method related to No. 395, it is possible to create a large blurred and wrinkled pattern, but for this purpose, it is necessary to prepare a large number of engraved rolls depending on the degree of change in BFI or to print several times. The process is complicated and inefficient, and the manufacturing cost is high, making it economically impractical.

そして何よりも揉皺線の濃色部とそれに囲まれる淡色部
の色彩濃度やボカシ模様を細かくランダムに変化させる
ことは実際上不可能であり、殊に稍々厚手の布地に柄ず
れのない表裏対称な図柄の揉皺模様をプリント捺染する
ことは出来ない。
Above all, it is practically impossible to finely and randomly change the color density and blurring pattern of the dark colored part of the crease line and the light colored part surrounded by it. It is not possible to print a symmetrical crumpled pattern.

〔発明の目的〕[Purpose of the invention]

そこで本発明は濃色部の揉皺線が色彩濃度、曲折形状、
太さ及び連続長さがランダムに細かく分岐しており、淡
白部には濃色部と同じ染料で染色されランダムに色彩濃
度の変化した東塔模様が描出され、又、濃色部と淡色部
との境界において色彩濃度がランダムになだらかに変化
したこれら濃色部と淡色部に色分けされたボカシ調揉皺
模様を表裏対称に簡便的に描出することを目的とする。
Therefore, in the present invention, the crumpled lines in the dark color area have color density, curved shape,
The thickness and continuous length are finely divided at random, and the light white part is dyed with the same dye as the dark color part, creating a east tower pattern with randomly changing color density, and the dark and light color parts are dyed with the same dye as the dark color part. The purpose of this invention is to simply depict a blurred crumpled pattern, which is color-coded into dark and light areas, with the color density changing randomly and smoothly at the boundary between the front and back, symmetrically.

〔発明の構成〕[Structure of the invention]

本発明は、上記の目的に合致するものであり、通常の無
地染工程における染液付与後の加熱発色処理に先立って
、布地を揉皺の付与された状態にし、その揉皺が完全に
消失しない程度に拡布しつつ予備加熱し染料にマイグレ
ーションを起こさせて乾燥すること、及び、その予備加
熱における染料のマイグレーションを布地を構成する糸
条の内部tJJc維素間に染料が完全に浸透しない状態
において行うこと、従って、加熱発色処理を染料にマイ
グレーションを起こさせた後に行うことを特徴とし、そ
れによりボカシ関の揉皺模様を表裏対称に描出すること
を要旨とするものである。
The present invention satisfies the above-mentioned objectives, and is capable of completely eliminating wrinkles by making the fabric wrinkled prior to heat coloring treatment after applying the dye solution in a normal plain dyeing process. Drying is performed by preheating the cloth while spreading it to such an extent that it does not cause migration of the dye, and the state in which the dye does not completely penetrate between the internal fibers of the threads that make up the fabric. Therefore, it is characterized in that the heating coloring treatment is carried out after causing migration in the dye, and the gist thereof is to thereby render a blurred wrinkle pattern symmetrically on the front and back sides.

即ち本発明は、通常の無地反染工程において、加熱発色
処理前の染液の付着した布地に製織後の機下ろし過程で
生じた折皺、或は精練漂白工程後に積み重ねておいた反
物に生じた折皺等が取り除かれずに残っているとき、加
熱発色処理過程でマイグレーションが生じ染料が折皺箇
所に移動し東塔をつくることに着目し、かかる従来染色
過程で生じろ不都合を積極的に利用して本発明所期の目
的を達成しようとするものである。
That is, the present invention deals with wrinkles that occur during the unloading process after weaving on fabric to which the dye has been applied prior to heat coloring treatment, or on fabrics that have been stacked after the scouring and bleaching process, in the normal plain dyeing process. Focusing on the fact that when creases, etc. remain without being removed, migration occurs during the heating coloring process and the dye moves to the creases, creating an east tower, we actively utilize these inconveniences that occur in the conventional dyeing process This is the object of the present invention.

本発明において、このマイグレーションの発生程度をコ
ントロールするには、通常使用されるマイグレーション
防止剤を染液に微量配合するとよく、又、予備加熱前に
染液が糸条内部の繊維素間に浸透せずマイグレーション
が生じ易いようにするため付活剤(糊剤等)を染液に配
合するとよい。
In the present invention, in order to control the degree of occurrence of migration, it is recommended to add a small amount of a commonly used anti-migration agent to the dye solution, and also to prevent the dye solution from penetrating between the cellulose inside the yarn before preheating. An activator (such as a sizing agent) may be added to the dye liquor in order to facilitate migration.

染液は、ディッピング、スプレー、プリント或はフロス
コート(染液を泡立てて塗すること)の何れの方法によ
って布地に付してもよい。
The dye liquor may be applied to the fabric by dipping, spraying, printing, or floss coating (foaming and applying the dye liquor).

使用染料は特に制限されず布地繊維の種類により適宜設
定されるが、なかでも染着反応の遅いホットタイプ就中
乾熱発色型の反応性染料が推奨される。
The dye to be used is not particularly limited and can be appropriately selected depending on the type of fabric fiber, but among these, hot type reactive dyes, particularly dry heat coloring type reactive dyes, which have a slow dyeing reaction, are recommended.

布地への揉皺仮セットは染液を付与した後に行うとよく
、その揉皺処理には特公昭55−32827号、特公昭
56−5867号、特公昭57−19223号、特公昭
58−39946号等に係る手段を通用してもよい。
It is best to temporarily set wrinkles on the fabric after applying the dye solution, and for the wrinkle treatment, Japanese Patent Publication No. 55-32827, Japanese Patent Publication No. 56-5867, Japanese Patent Publication No. 57-19223, Japanese Patent Publication No. 58-39946 The means related to the above may also be used.

布地としては無地物に限らずジャガードやプリントによ
る柄物の信奉発明によりボカシ調揉皺模様をつけたもの
も使用することが出来、かかる柄物布地に本発明による
ボカシ調揉皺模様をつけて一層複雑な模様とし、又は、
セルロース繊維の布地ではアルカリ剤を合成繊維の布地
ではグリオキザールその他の樹脂を染液に配合し、或は
、染料にマイグレーションを起こさせる乾燥温度を高温
にしたり加熱発色処理後に高温熱処理する等して仮セッ
トされて布地に残存する凹凸揉皺を洗濯等によっては消
失しない程度にそのまま強くセットし、それにより凹凸
揉皺模様の輪郭に沿って陰影を付ける様にボカシ開に濃
淡染め分けて更に複雑で立体感に冨む模様とすることも
本発明の技術的範囲に含まれる。
The fabric is not limited to plain fabrics, but can also be used with jacquard or printed patterned fabrics with a blurred crumpled pattern, and by adding the blurred crumpled pattern of the present invention to such patterned fabrics, it can be made even more complex. with a pattern, or
For fabrics made of cellulose fibers, an alkaline agent is added, and for fabrics made of synthetic fibers, glyoxal or other resin is added to the dye liquor, or the drying temperature is set to a high temperature to cause migration of the dye, or a high temperature heat treatment is applied after heat coloring treatment. The uneven wrinkles that are set and remain on the fabric are strongly set to the extent that they will not disappear by washing, etc., and then dyed in different shading to create a more complex and three-dimensional appearance. It is also within the technical scope of the present invention to create a pattern that is rich in sensation.

以下、実施例により本発明を具体的に説明する。Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples.

〔実施例〕〔Example〕

口付2oog/=の平織綿布16を、乾熱発色型反応性
染料と尿素と重炭酸すトリウムと極少量の付活剤(糊)
及びマイグレーション防止剤を配合し調製した液浴17
に浸漬し、マングル18にて軽く絞液後コイ頃斜板19
に紐状に幅を縮め次いで長さ方向に折り重ねつつまるめ
て皺を縦横にランダムに入れて団子状にまるめた布地を
圧搾機20にてプレスし皺を仮セットし、その仮セント
皺が完全に消失しない程度に拡大しつつ引き出し、無緊
張状態において熱輻射式加熱装置(ノンタッチ而発熱ガ
スバーナー)21に通して乾燥させ、その後は常法に従
って加熱発色装置22に通し、ウィンスにて後処理し、
タンブラ−にて乾燥させた。
A plain woven cotton cloth 16 with a width of 200 g/= is mixed with a dry heat coloring type reactive dye, urea, thorium bicarbonate, and a very small amount of activator (glue).
Liquid bath 17 prepared by blending and anti-migration agent
After immersing the carp in water and squeezing it lightly with the mangle 18, remove the carp from the swash plate 19.
The width of the fabric is shortened into a string shape, and then folded in the length direction and rolled up to create wrinkles randomly in the vertical and horizontal directions. Pull it out while enlarging it to the extent that it does not disappear completely, and dry it by passing it through a thermal radiation heating device (non-touch exothermic gas burner) 21 in a stress-free state, then pass it through a heating coloring device 22 according to the usual method, and finish it with a wince. process,
It was dried in a tumbler.

こうして染色された綿布14は、発色処理前の乾燥過程
において仮セットした皺の凸部へと染料が移動(マイグ
レーション)し、その仮セットした皺の凸部が布地の表
裏において対称に濃く発色して揉皺線状の濃色部11と
なり、この濃色部11に囲まれた部分では染料が少なく
淡くなり、皺が曲折形状や太さ及び連続長さがランダム
に多数細かく分岐して付けられので、揉皺線状の濃色部
11と、濃色部11に囲まれた淡色部12とで色分けさ
れた表裏対称な図柄の揉皺模様を有し、濃色部11の揉
皺線13は、色彩濃度、曲折形状、太さ及び連続長さが
ランダムで多数細かく分岐しており、淡色部12が濃色
部11と同じ染料で染色されるもランダムにぼけた染色
斑14があり、濃色部11と淡色部12の境界では色彩
濃度がランダムになだらかに変化し、それらの境界がぼ
けており、視覚上立体感に富むものであった。
In the cotton fabric 14 dyed in this way, during the drying process before coloring treatment, the dye migrates to the convex portions of the temporarily set wrinkles, and the convex portions of the temporarily set wrinkles develop a deep color symmetrically on the front and back of the fabric. The dark colored part 11 has a wrinkled line shape, and the part surrounded by this dark colored part 11 has less dye and becomes lighter, and the wrinkles are created by branching into many small pieces with random bending shapes, thicknesses, and continuous lengths. Therefore, it has a crumpled pattern with a symmetrical pattern on the front and back, which is color-coded into a dark colored part 11 in the form of crumpled lines and a light colored part 12 surrounded by the dark colored part 11. The color density, curved shape, thickness and continuous length are random and there are many fine branches, and even though the light colored part 12 is dyed with the same dye as the dark colored part 11, there are randomly blurred staining spots 14, At the boundary between the dark-colored area 11 and the light-colored area 12, the color density changed smoothly and randomly, and the boundary between them was blurred, giving a visually rich three-dimensional effect.

〔発明の効果〕〔Effect of the invention〕

本発明によれば揉皺模様を構成する濃色部11の揉皺線
13は、加熱発色処理前に付与した揉皺跡に沿って生じ
、従って、そのしさや密度は揉皺の付は方つまり布地を
細かく束ね或は畳むか否かによって自由に調整すること
が出来る。即ち本発明は通常の無地−色に染色する過程
で、言わば手作業で布地を団子状にまるめて板部を入れ
ると言う簡単な手段、つまり通常の無地反染工程の途中
で布地を間欠的に台車等に振り落として貯めると言つと
言う煩雑な労力を要せず、又、防染塗膜の界雷剥離脱落
の心配もなく、又、多数の捺染スクリーンや彫刻ローラ
ーを用怠し何回も印捺すると言う複雑な工程或は高価な
設備を要せず、この様に本発明は実施が容易で実用的で
ある。
According to the present invention, the crease lines 13 of the dark colored part 11 forming the crease pattern are generated along the crease traces applied before the heat coloring treatment, and therefore, the sharpness and density of the crease lines 13 depend on the appearance of the creases. In other words, it can be freely adjusted by whether or not to bundle or fold the fabric. That is, the present invention utilizes a simple method of manually rolling up the fabric into a dumpling shape and inserting a plate part in the process of dyeing the fabric into a normal plain color. There is no need for complicated labor such as shaking it off on a trolley etc. and storing it, there is no need to worry about the peeling off of the resist coating film, and there is no need to waste many printing screens and engraving rollers. The present invention is easy to implement and practical, as it does not require a complicated process of multiple printing or expensive equipment.

そして本発明により描出される揉皺模様は、布地の表裏
に均等に付与した染料にランダムに生じるマイグレーシ
ョンを利用した濃淡色分けによるため、その揉皺模様は
色彩濃度、曲折形状、太さ及び連続長さがランダムで多
数細かく分岐した揉皺線状の濃色部11と、その濃色部
11に囲まれた淡色部12とで色分けされ、その淡色部
12には濃色部11と同じ染料で染色されるもランダム
にぼけた染色斑14が生じ、濃色部11と淡色部12の
境界では色彩濃度がランダムになだらかに変化してぼけ
、かかる濃色部11の揉皺線I3と淡色部12の染色斑
14との濃度差によってそれら各部分に遠近感が生じ、
それら各部の輪郭は色彩濃度がぼけて判然とせず全体の
色調が柔らかく、而も、濃淡差による揉皺模様が表裏対
称に出来るので色彩に深みを帯び、この様に従来類例の
ない立体感に富む新規な捺染布地が得られ、よって本発
明は頗る好都合である。
The crumpled pattern created by the present invention is divided into shades of light and dark using migration that occurs randomly in the dye applied evenly to the front and back sides of the fabric. It is color-coded into a dark-colored area 11 with many finely branched wrinkle lines at random, and a light-colored area 12 surrounded by the dark-colored area 11. Although it is dyed, randomly blurred staining spots 14 occur, and at the boundary between the dark color area 11 and the light color area 12, the color density changes smoothly and blurs at random, and the crease line I3 of the dark color area 11 and the light color area A sense of perspective is created in each part due to the difference in density between the 12 stained spots 14,
The color density of the contours of each part is blurred and unclear, and the overall color tone is soft.However, since the crumpled pattern created by the difference in shading is symmetrical on the front and back, the colors take on a deep depth, creating a three-dimensional effect that has never been seen before. The present invention is therefore highly advantageous as it provides new printed fabrics that are rich in color.

そして又、本発明ではマイグレーションを染料の糸条内
部の繊維間に浸透しない染液付与直後で染料の移動し易
い状態で行うので顕著に生じ、それによって淡色部に恰
も防染処理したかの如き白抜き部分を形成し、濃色部と
淡色部の間をポカシ調にするも全体として濃淡差のはっ
きりした揉皺模様をFM出することが出来る等、本発明
の利とするところ極めて多大である。
Furthermore, in the present invention, the migration occurs immediately after the application of the dye liquid, which does not penetrate between the fibers inside the yarn, and in a state where the dye is easily mobile, so that the migration occurs conspicuously. The advantages of the present invention are extremely large, such as the ability to create a crumpled pattern with a clear difference in shading as a whole by forming a white part and creating a pokashi-like tone between the dark and light colored parts. be.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief explanation of drawings]

第1図は本発明の実施工程の概要図、第2図は本発明に
係る布地の表面図である。 11・・・濃色部、 12・・・淡色部、   13・
・・揉皺線、14・・・染色斑、 15・・・染色布地
、  16・・・綿布、17・・・染浴、  18・・
・マングル、  19・・・傾斜板、20・・・圧搾機
、 21・・・ガスバーナー、22・・・加熱装置。
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the implementation process of the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a surface diagram of the fabric according to the present invention. 11...Dark colored part, 12...Light colored part, 13.
・・Wrinkle lines, 14・Dyeing spots, 15・Dyeed fabric, 16・Cotton fabric, 17・Dye bath, 18・・
- Mangle, 19... Inclined plate, 20... Pressing machine, 21... Gas burner, 22... Heating device.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 染液付与後の加熱発色処理に先立って、布地を揉皺の付
与された状態にし、その揉皺が完全に消失しない程度に
拡布し予備加熱し乾燥処理すること、及び、その予備加
熱乾燥処理を布地を構成する糸条の内部繊維素間に染料
が完全に浸透しない状態において行うことを特徴とする
揉皺模様染め出し法。
Prior to heating and coloring treatment after applying the dye solution, the fabric is made into a wrinkled state, and the fabric is spread to an extent that the wrinkles do not completely disappear, preheated and dried, and the preliminary heating and drying treatment. A crumpled pattern dyeing method is characterized in that the dye is carried out in a state where the dye does not completely penetrate between the internal fibers of the threads that make up the fabric.
JP61099786A 1986-04-30 1986-04-30 Dyeing of crepe pattern Granted JPS62257484A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP61099786A JPS62257484A (en) 1986-04-30 1986-04-30 Dyeing of crepe pattern

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP61099786A JPS62257484A (en) 1986-04-30 1986-04-30 Dyeing of crepe pattern

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPS62257484A true JPS62257484A (en) 1987-11-10
JPH0123594B2 JPH0123594B2 (en) 1989-05-08

Family

ID=14256613

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP61099786A Granted JPS62257484A (en) 1986-04-30 1986-04-30 Dyeing of crepe pattern

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPS62257484A (en)

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS564785A (en) * 1979-06-20 1981-01-19 Emori Shoji Kk Three dimensional pattern coloring method of polyester fiber material
JPS5847514A (en) * 1981-09-17 1983-03-19 Toshiba Corp Controlling device for coiler
JPS59199881A (en) * 1983-04-20 1984-11-13 ユニチカ株式会社 Wrinkle imparting and density dyeing simultaneous process ofcloth
JPS62250289A (en) * 1986-04-18 1987-10-31 北條 博一 Dyeing of vegetation dyeing like picture pattern

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS564785A (en) * 1979-06-20 1981-01-19 Emori Shoji Kk Three dimensional pattern coloring method of polyester fiber material
JPS5847514A (en) * 1981-09-17 1983-03-19 Toshiba Corp Controlling device for coiler
JPS59199881A (en) * 1983-04-20 1984-11-13 ユニチカ株式会社 Wrinkle imparting and density dyeing simultaneous process ofcloth
JPS62250289A (en) * 1986-04-18 1987-10-31 北條 博一 Dyeing of vegetation dyeing like picture pattern

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPH0123594B2 (en) 1989-05-08

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