JPS62223337A - Method and apparatus for producing pile fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Field of Industrial Application) The present invention relates to a method and apparatus for manufacturing pile woven fabric. More specifically, the present invention relates to a method and apparatus for producing a pile woven fabric that heat-treats the pile woven fabric in a pile weaving process.

(Prior art) Cut pile products, ranging from velvet-like short piles to animal hair-like long piles, have been widely used on a daily basis as luxury clothing and interior materials. . In particular, long-pile fur has recently been actively developed as artificial fur.

The manufacturing method for cut pile products includes a single pile weaving method in which a loop pile cloth is formed by a method such as tufting, and then the upper end of the loop pile is cut by shearing, and
There is a double pile weaving method in which a required length of pile yarn is weaved between two layers of ground woven fabric, and then the pile is cut with a cutter to weave two upper and lower pile woven fabrics at the same time. In particular, the double pile weaving method is often used to produce cut pile cloth as a method with high weaving efficiency.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) Conventionally, fur-like pile products have had insufficiencies in terms of coat quality and the like. For fluff-like piles that require good handling and a soft texture, weak curling or curling that is suppressed or stabilized is preferable. Heat treatment is effective in suppressing or stabilizing crimp, but conventionally it has to be carried out at the yarn stage before warping, requiring special heat treatment, processing processes and equipment, and is costly. This made it difficult to implement, and there were many cases where it was not implemented even though it would have been better to implement it. The pile of pile fabrics is flocked in a V-shape or W-shape with ground threads in between, but when the pile is particularly long, it tends to be uneven and has a problem that it looks inferior to fur-like hair.

Furthermore, fur-like pile products have problems such as the raised surface being monotonous and not changing easily, making it easy to distinguish them as artificial products at first glance, and the dimensional instability of the ground fabric due to linear shrinkage of the ground threads under heating. Was.

The present invention provides a pile woven fabric for artificial fur that has less disturbance in the raised piles, has excellent uniformity, can give a pattern to the raised piles as required, and has excellent thermal dimensional stability of the ground woven fabric. With the goal.

Means and operation for solving problem C) The method of the present invention involves simultaneously forming two upper and lower base fabrics and a pile yarn connecting the base fabrics, and then cutting the pile yarn to form a cut pile. A method for producing a double pile woven fabric, which is characterized in that the woven fabric is heat-treated between a reed and a cutter. The apparatus of the present invention also provides a double pile loom that simultaneously forms two upper and lower ground fabrics and pile threads that connect between the ground fabrics, and then cuts the pile threads to produce a cut pile fabric. The feature is that a heater for heat treatment of the fabric is installed between the lead and the cutter.

Any thermoplastic synthetic fiber can be used for the pile yarn and ground yarn used in the present invention. For example, 4 nylon, 6
These include polyamide fibers such as nylon, 66 nylon, and 12 nylon, polyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene ethylene phthalate, polyethylene fibers, and polypropylene fibers, and polyester fibers are particularly preferably used for fur-like products.

Pile yarn is like fine animal hair, and the single yarn is 10 to 7
A bundle of fibers having a weak winding of 0 denier or substantially no winding, and/or a fluff-like bundle of fibers having a winding of 0.5 to 4 denier or latent crimp as a fluff-like item. A bundle is preferred, but is not particularly limited.

The ground yarn is a spun yarn with a cotton count of 20 to 80, or a single yarn of 0.6 to 80.
Preferably, an 8 denier crimped or uncrimped filament bundle is used.

The binding structure of the base yarn and the pile yarn may be a V-shaped knot shown in FIG. 2 or a W-shaped knot shown in FIG. 8.

The double pile woven fabric of the present invention can be woven using a general shirtless type loom such as a shirttle type, a rapier type, or a fluid jet type. The weaving speed of the double woven fabric of the present invention with a relatively large pile length for artificial fur is slower than when the pile length is short, and the standard speed is 1 to 8 m/hour.

The cut pile length of the pile woven fabric of the present invention for artificial fur is 5
The thickness is preferably 5 to 50 mm, most preferably 7 to 40 nm, and most preferably 10 to 85 mm. If the pile length is less than 5 mm, the appearance will be unsatisfactory due to animal hair-like appearance, which is not preferred for the present invention. The pile density is preferably 80 to 800 piles/cm2 in most cases, counting V-type and W-type as one unit. 80 locations/
If it is less than cm2, the naps are sparse and the woven fabric looks loose, resulting in a poor fur-like appearance, which is not preferable. Another 800 locations/
A pile density exceeding cm2 is difficult for the loom to function.

In the heat treatment method of the present invention, a heater is installed between the reed and cutter of a pile loom, and the heater and the base fabric are in contact or non-contact with each other, and the temperature of the pile yarn and base yarn polymer is above the glass transition point and below the softening point or below the melting point. It is characterized by heating the woven fabric (including pile) below the temperature. Woven fabric heating temperature is
Often 80~aOO℃, more often 100~2
50°C, most often 120-200°C is preferred.

If the heating temperature is low, below the glass transition point of the polymer, the heat setting effect of the pile and woven fabric, which is the object of the present invention, will not be achieved, and if the heating temperature is much higher than the softening point of the polymer, the pile will This is undesirable because it causes problems such as the woven fabric losing its shape, the product having a rough texture, and oxidation coloration and damage to the fibers.

As a special application, it is also possible to use fibers containing a low melting point polymer in a portion of the base yarn (for example, 30% or less, especially 1 to 5%) and to bond the base fabric by heating. In this case as well, most of the ground yarns (more than 50%, especially more than 70%) and most of the pile yarns do not soften and bond.The heating time of the present invention ranges from the shortest time that can impart a heat-setting effect to the time when the texture of the woven fabric is improved. This is done within the time period just before the drop. Appropriate heating time varies depending on the desired product quality, but in most cases it is 0.1 seconds to 20 minutes, more often 0.1 seconds to 20 minutes.
It is within the range of 5 seconds to 15 minutes.

Conventionally, fluff fibers with suppressed animal hair-like and stable crimping are
Particularly, continuous filaments had problems that were difficult to obtain. The heat treatment of the present invention can easily suppress crimp and stabilize the fluff fibers of fur-like pile products, whether they are continuous filaments or stable. The fluff fibers of the pile that are woven and bonded between the two upper and lower ground fabrics are stretched under tension by the tensilan that guides the threads in the weaving process, and when heated in the later process, they develop a wrapped net. There is an unstable tendency to The fluff fibers subjected to the heat treatment of the present invention in a taut state have a gentle crimp similar to that of animal hair after pile cutting.

The heat treatment of the present invention not only suppresses curling and stabilizes the pile yarn, but also reduces the linear shrinkage rate and stabilizes the uprightness of the pile.
Furthermore, it provides a dimensional stabilizing effect for the ground fabric.

Pile length affects weaving efficiency. The shorter the pile length, the higher the weaving efficiency, which is advantageous. The pile of pile woven fabric shrinks linearly in a processing step that involves heating after cutting the pile. With respect to the desired pile length of the pile product, the pile length during weaving can be made shorter as the linear shrinkage rate is smaller. As a result of the heat treatment of the present invention, the linear shrinkage rate of the pile is reduced, so that the pile length during weaving can be set to a short length, resulting in the effects of reducing yarn breakage, reducing defective products, and increasing weaving speed.

In long-pile products, it is desirable that the pile be uniform in overall direction without any disturbance. However, V type and W! In pile weaving, a pair of piles that are folded back with the ground thread sandwiched therebetween has the disadvantage that it opens to some extent due to the elastic recovery force, and does not stand up in one direction with respect to the ground woven fabric surface. Particularly in the case of animal hair-like pile products having prickly fibers with an extremely large single denier, the bending elastic force is large, and as a result, the regular directionality of the piling is difficult, which is one of the causes of quality deterioration. In the heat treatment of the present invention, a temperature close to the softening point of the polymer is applied to the pile bending part, so that the pile direction can be stabilized to stand upright with respect to the fabric surface. This is also an advantageous condition for obtaining a beautiful coat when applying shaping processing such as laying it down or adding a wave pattern.

The heat treatment of the present invention reduces the linear shrinkage rate of the pile and at the same time reduces the straight line number a ratio of the ground yarn, thereby helping to stabilize the dimensions of the ground woven fabric. Woven fabrics are often heated during various processes.
There is a problem that the finished dimensions of the ground woven fabric change due to the linear contraction of the ground yarn.For this reason, conventionally the woven fabric was set using iζ such as a pin tenter, but a special JJ7 was installed. This has the disadvantage of increasing costs because it requires The heat treatment of the present invention can be carried out with simple equipment such as a heater attached to a loom, and has the advantage that dimensional stabilization of the ground fabric can be carried out at an extremely low cost since no special equipment is required.

In addition to uniformly heating the entire woven fabric, the heat treatment of the present invention can also be carried out by changing the heat treatment conditions in the weft/texture direction of the woven fabric. Woven fabrics that have been heat-treated unevenly in the warp and weft directions will shrink or curl unevenly depending on the location due to heating during dyeing and finishing processes, resulting in subtle patterns in the raised state and the state of the base fabric. is expressed. For example, in areas that have been heat-treated sufficiently strongly, the winding of the pile is weakened and the shrinkage of the base fabric is suppressed to almost no extent, but in areas that are not heat-treated or are heat-treated weakly, the pile is strongly crimped and the base fabric also shrinks. This results in unevenness of the nap and unevenness of the base fabric, resulting in a subtle and high-quality surface effect in fur-like products. The strength of the heat treatment conditions is determined by adjusting the heating temperature and/or heating time. Various methods can be used to adjust the heating mL degree of the woven fabric, such as changing the amount of heat from the heat source, changing the distance between the heat source and the woven fabric, and intermittent blocking of the heat rays from reaching the woven fabric using an exorcism plate. .

The present invention will be explained below with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 1 is a process diagram showing the method of the present invention.

The ground warp yarns are fed out from the beam (1) in a cumulative manner.

The leash rod (2) separates the upper and lower ground warps (3) and (4), and the threads are passed through the ground warp belts (5) and (6). The binding yarn is passed from the beam (7) through the feeding device (8) and the tension adjustment cover (9) to the binding yarn belt αO. The double bonded and spun fabric U3, which is woven by the shedding movement of the ground warp and binding yarn by the belt, the insertion movement of the weft αB, and the beating movement by the lead UZ, is heated by a heater L14 provided close to the ground woven fabric. ) undergoes heat treatment. After heat treatment 2
In the double-bound fabric, the binding yarn is cut by a cutter 19, sent by a take-up roller αe equipped with needles, and passed through a guide roll (
171 and the cross beam [1 m] The fabric is rolled up separately as two woven fabrics.

The number of heaters used in the present invention may be one per one side of the ground fabric as shown in FIG. 1, or two or more heaters may be provided in the weaving direction if necessary. Practically speaking, 1 layer is usually applied to one side of the woven fabric.
~2 pieces are often used.

In addition, the heater used in the present invention can be of various heating methods, such as contact or non-contact type heating solid, infrared heating, far infrared heating, high frequency heating, and one using a heat medium such as water vapor. In particular, in order to heat not only the ground yarn but also the pile yarn, it is preferable to use an infrared type or high frequency type that can heat a distant place.

(Example) This will be explained below using examples.

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate spun 6 for ground warp and ground weft
8 cotton count twin yarn, 85'r/M twisted yarn of 100d/8f polyethylene terephthalate flat cross-section unwrapped filament and 150d/144f polyethylene terephthalate Panron crimped filament as the bound pile yarn.
By the manufacturing process shown in Fig. 1, the binding yarn length was 56 mm.
A double knotted vile fabric with a binding yarn density of 105 points/cm2 and a binding yarn structure of 12 points/cm2 was woven at a speed of 1.5 m/hour.

The woven double-tied pile fabric was heat-treated at 180°C for 1 minute at each location using a sheathed wire electric heater with a long stainless steel cover installed close to the fabric, and then placed on the rail. The binding yarn was cut at the center by a cutter that was reciprocated with a string, and wound up onto a cross beam as two woven fabrics.

The woven fabric is further treated with a 20% by weight aqueous solution of caustic soda.
50 d/144 f crimping system tip 10 mm melt cutting at 100°C and 100 d/8 f unwrapped fiber tip 4 mm io o'c lower tapered thinning melt processing, 130 It was subjected to high-pressure dyeing at ℃ for 60 minutes, followed by backing, fiber opening, softening, water repellency, and gloss finishing, and was then supplied as artificial fur products.

The woven fabric for artificial fur produced by the heat treatment of the present invention was a pile woven fabric in which heated zones were alternately present.

When the woven fabric undergoes a heating process after weaving, due to the heat treatment temperature difference, periodic naps appear in the weft direction of the woven fabric in a band-like warp direction, and irregularities of the ground and woven fabric appear, resulting in a fur-like high-class change. It had a rich appearance.

(Effects of the Invention) By the method and apparatus of the present invention, the following effects can be easily imparted to the pile woven fabric for artificial fur at low cost.

(1) Suppression of net seine 2. Artificial fur products have excellent cotton opening and handling properties, resulting in raised fluff that is soft to the touch.

(2) Stabilization of the upright state of the nap The two naps are stabilized in an upright state with respect to the base fabric, and a nap product with less disordered hair and excellent uniformity and uniformity can be obtained.

(3) Reduction of linear shrinkage rate: When the linear shrinkage rate of the pile yarn is reduced, the length of the weaving binding yarn can be reduced relative to the desired nap length, and as a result, the weaving speed can be increased, and the weaving vehicle This improves thread breakage and reduces the number of defective products. In addition, even when the ground weave commercial ζ is applied, the linear shrinkage rate of the ground yarn is reduced, and as a result, the effect of reducing the shrinkage rate and improving the dimensional stability of the ground fabric can be obtained.

(4) Pattern effect: By changing the heat-treated portions in the warp and/or weft direction of the woven fabric, it is possible to impart irregularities and patterns to the evenness of the raised pile, the raised state, and the state of the wrapper.

(5) Adhesive effect: When a small amount of fiber containing a low melting point polymer is mixed, the low melting point polymer can be melted and bonded to stabilize and fix the base fabric or nap.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a double pile loom equipped with a heat treatment device according to the present invention. FIGS. 2 and 8 are double joint tissue diagrams, where FIG. 2 is an example of a V-type joint and FIG. 8 is an example of a W-type joint. Kanebo Gosen Co., Ltd.

Claims (7)

[Claims] (1) In a double pile fabric manufacturing method in which a cut pile fabric is produced by simultaneously forming two upper and lower ground fabrics and a pile thread that connects the ground fabrics, the pile threads are cut to produce a cut pile fabric. A method for producing pile woven fabric, characterized by heat-treating the woven fabric between cutters. (2) The method for producing a pile woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the heating temperature of the pile woven fabric is 100 to 250°C and the heating time is 0.5 seconds to 15 minutes. (3) The method for producing a pile woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein at least a portion of the pile yarn is made of polyester synthetic fiber. (4) The method for producing a pile woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the cut pile length is at least 5 mm. (5) The method for manufacturing a pile woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the heat treatment temperature and/or the heat treatment time are varied in the weft direction and/or the warp direction, and the heat treatment is performed non-uniformly on the woven fabric. (6) In a double pile loom that produces a cut pile fabric by cutting the pile yarns after simultaneously forming two upper and lower base fabrics and a pile yarn connecting between the base fabrics, the gap between the reed and the cutter is A pile woven fabric manufacturing apparatus characterized in that a heater for heat treating the woven fabric is installed in the woven fabric. (7) The apparatus for producing pile woven fabric according to claim 6, wherein the heater support is equipped with a mechanism for varying the distance from the ground woven fabric.